My wife has a strong dislike for Chardonnay but a fond love for Chardonnay Musqué. This raised the question in my mind, what makes Chardonnay Musqué different from Chardonnay? Is there truly a discernible difference? My wife argues that absolutely there is.
I set forth on a research expedition to determine if there is a difference, and if so, why.
What I learned is that Chardonnay Musqué is an aromatic mutation of the Chardonnay grape. It is grown principally in the vineyards of Canada’s Niagara Peninsula and New York’s Finger Lakes.
The typical Chardonnay Musqué wine is off-dry, medium bodied, and has the distinctive, grapey, Muscat-like aroma. Depending on the region and producer, other flavours and aromas might range from tropical fruit to cinnamon-tinged lemon sorbet.
There are over 40 different clones of Chardonnay, but only two of these can be called “Musqué” due to their aromatic qualities. For you techies they are Clone 77 and Clone 809. These wines are generally unoaked in order to preserve the fresh and fragrant aromas natural to the grape. This is the reason why my wife likes it so much (she has a real aversion to any oaked white wine)
Several Ontario vineyards are now planted with musqué clones and the grapes may be used as either part of a blend or bottled on their own.
Generally these wines are best when consumed relatively young. The aromas of Chardonnay Musqué are reminiscent of Viognier or even Torrontes, and it can be made in a range of styles from dry to a little sweet to quite sweet, sometimes even with a slight spritz.
Chardonnay Musqué can be enjoyed on its own on a warm spring or summer day, or paired with mild curries, sushi, salads, grilled salmon, or seafood.
There are several Ontario wineries using one or both Chardonnay Musqué clones in their wines. Trail Vintner’s Weiss uses Chardonnay Musqué as part of a Riesling Chardonnay Musqué blend, while other producers, such as Chateau des Charmes, Cave Spring Cellars, and Vineland Estates, prefer to bottle the clone on its own.
A few Ontario Chardonnay Musqués:
Chateau des Charmes
Paul Bosc, founder of Chateau des Charmes, chose the particularly fragrant and interesting Clone 809 for his Chardonnay Musqué. Only about 500 cases are bottled by the winery annually. The 2015 vintage is available from the winery or online for $14.95.
Cave Spring Cellars
Cave Spring Cellars 2016 Chardonnay Musqué is made from 100% Chardonnay Musqué Clone 77. This wine is fermented in stainless steel and unoaked so as to maintain every nuance of the delightful aromatics of the Chardonnay Musqué grape. It’s a wine of refinement and class. Floral, yes, but it also offers bright citrus, tropical fruit, peach and a hint of vanilla aromas. Try it with green salads or shrimp Pad Thai. It is available from the LCBO for $17.95.
Vineland Estates
Their 2016 Chardonnay Musqué is available from the winery or online for $17.95. The wine is described as having an abundance of warm summer melon, lime zest and tangerine aromas that roll in the glass while the welcomed edge of acidity focuses and the perfect trace of a bitter finish.
Trail Vintner’s Weiss
The 2017 Riesling Chardonnay Musqué blend is available at the LCBO for $19.95. According to Natalie MacLean it is a delightful, vibrant white wine blend of Riesling and Chardonnay Musqué grapes form Prince Edward County. It has aromas of daisies, lychee, apple blossom and white peach, and is balanced with racy acidity for shellfish and vegetarian dishes.
If you are a fan of Chardonnay, and unoaked Chardonnay in particular, trying Chardonnay Musqué would be well worth your while; just ask my wife.
These are some wines and wineries which have been in the spot light for doing good things during the past year or so and would be worth while checking out if you have the opportunity.
The wineries presented here are based on my own interpretation of critic reviews and award results over the past year or so. However, the overview of each winery is based on information provided directly from the winery.
Unfortunately not all of the wines mentioned will be found in your local wine or liquor store. Many have to be obtained or ordered directly from the winery using their web site. Some can be found in select restaurants. I have included wines that have since been sold out in order to note that future releases of these wines should receive due consideration.
In order to be unbiased, the wineries are being presented in alphabetical order.
Big Head Wines
According to their web site, Big Head is a family of passionate individuals that love all things vinous. They have been making wine in the Niagara area for over a decade, and this is their first project on their own. They source only the best fruit from the Niagara region, working closely with growers that share their attention to detail and pursuit of the highest quality.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2018 Gewurztraminer – Sold out
2017 Chardonnay Stainless – Sold out
2017 RAW Syrah – $48 at the winery
2016 Special Select Late Harvest Riesling – $38 at the winery
2017 RAW Chenin Blanc – $38 at the winery
Creekside Estate Winery
Creekside Estate Winery opened in 1997 in small-town Jordan, Ontario. The Winery is run by industry veterans who have decades of experience in their respective fields.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2017 Iconoclast Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – $23 at the winery, sold out at the LCBO
2016 Broken Press Syrah Reserve – $55 at the winery
2015 Broken Press Syrah Reserve – Sold out
Flat Rock Cellars
Flat Rock Cellars vineyard produces low yields, utilizes progressive viticulture practices and hand picking and sorting of the grapes.
Founded in 1999 on a section of the Niagara Escarpment known as the Jordan Bench, Flat Rock Cellars is located on a gently rolling slope.
Their predominant wine is red. The rocks that are the geological foundation of the winery and found throughout the property are the roots of the Flat Rock Cellars name.
When Coyote’s Run was sold and closed, Dave Sheppard returned to Flat Rock and is back at the helm of winemaking – and for Flat Rock this is an amazing coup.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2015 Gravity Pinot Noir – $50 at the winery
2017 Chardonnay – $19.95 at Vintages at the LCBO
Hidden Bench Estate Winery
The critically acclaimed estate winery is in the heart of the Beamsville Bench. Premium wines are crafted using only certified organic estate fruit with sustainable, non-interventionist winemaking techniques.
They create only 100% estate grown wines in two series: the Estate Series, which are blends of their three vineyards; and the Terroir Series, which are single vineyard and/or barrel selection, limited production wines.
They produce 100% estate premium Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2017 Pinot Noir Unfiltered – Sold Out
2016 Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard – $42.20 at the winery
2017 Estate Chardonnay – $29.95 at the winery
2016 Chardonnay Tête de Cuvée – $48.20 at the winery
2016 Riesling Felseck Vineyard – $30.20 at the winery
Konzelmann Estate
The winery began in the small German town of Uhlbach near the turn of the 19th century, when a restauranteur named Frederick Konzelmann left the culinary trade to pursue the craft of winemaking. By 1984 the Konzelmann family immigrated to Canada, purchased a lakefront peach orchard and created the vineyard.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2017 Lakefront Series Pinot Blanc – Sold out
2016 Meritage Reserve – Sold out
Leaning Post Wines
Leaning Post began as a virtual winery and is proud to now have the quaint tasting room at 1491 Hwy 8 on their home property in Winona, Ontario. Ilya and Nadia are the brains and passion behind Leaning Post Wines. It started with a dream to take unique, interesting single vineyard blocks in Niagara and turn them into distinctive, terroir driven wines.
Ilya has been a winemaker in the Niagara Region for the last 17 vintages working at Daniel Lenko Estate Winery, Foreign Affair and now at Leaning Post Wines. Ilya is also a consulting winemaker at the Good Earth Winery.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2017 Chardonnay Senchuk Vineyard – Sold Out
2016 Chardonnay Clone 96 – Sold out
Malivoire Winery
The winery began in 1995 with the purchase of what is now known as the Moira Vineyard, followed by the acquisition of the larger property where the winery now stands. Original plantings of Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Gamay and Pinot Noir were supplemented in the following years by additional vinifera varieties. Today Malivoire operates at the top of its capacity, producing twenty-four thousand cases of wine per year.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2016 Stouck Merlot – Sold out
2017 Old Vines Foch – $26.95 at the winery
2016 Pinot Noir, Small Lot – Sold out
2016 Courtney Gamay – Sold out
Marynissen Estates
Marynissen Estates has its roots deeply embedded in the soil of Niagara-on-the-Lake. Located in the Four Mile Creek sub appellation, the estate is home to the oldest commercial planting of Cabernet Sauvignon in Canada. The property, an old pig barn, was purchased in 1953 by viticulture pioneer John Marynissen and his wife Adrianna. John and Adrianna began growing their own grapes in 1976, planting the classic European vinifera grape varietals Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Merlot and Gamay Noir. There focus is on small-lot winemaking.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2015 Heritage Collection Red – $34.95 at the winery
2015 Platinum Series Pinot Noir – Sold out
Megalomaniac
The winery first opened its cellar doors to the public in 2009. All operations from harvest to administration and even tastings took place in the underground cellar. Today, guests experience the Megalomaniac portfolio within a newly constructed establishment built above the original cellar.
The wines of recent notoriety:
Bubblehead Sparkling Pinot Noir – $34.95 at the winery
2017 Coldhearted Riesling Icewine – $39.95 at the winery
2018 Sparkling Personality – $19.95 at the LCBO
2016 Big Mouth Merlot – Sold out
Peller Estates Niagara-on-the-Lake
At the age of 58, thirty-four years after arriving in Canada, Andrew Peller’s modest Okanagan vineyard inspired a vision for the entire family and he opened wineries in British Columbia, Ontario and Nova Scotia.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2018 Private Reserve Sauvignon Blanc – Sold out
2017 Andrew Peller Signature Series Riesling – Sold out
Rosehall Run Vineyards
Dan and Lynn Sullivan, with support from Cam Reston, founded Rosehall Run in 2000. The 150-acre farm was selected due to its proximity to Lake Ontario. One of the earliest Prince Edward County wineries established in the west central region known as Hillier Ward; planting of the vineyard began in 2001 with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Today there are 25 acres of vinifera including Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Muscat and Tempranillo.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2017 JCR Pinot Noir – $39.95 at the winery
2016 Cabernet Franc Single Vineyard – $34.95 at the winery
Tawse Winery
Situated on the lower slopes of the Niagara Escarpment, Tawse is a family-owned organic and biodynamic winery, voted Canada’s Winery of the Year in 2010, 2011, 2012 & 2016. Founder Moray Tawse purchased 6 acres on the Cherry Avenue property in 2001. In 2005 he opened his state-of-the-art winery, complete with a six-level, gravity-flow design, geo-thermal system and a wetland bio-filter. The inspiration for his first Niagara property came from his love of Burgundian Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Uniting traditional winemaking techniques with state-of-the-art technology, Tawse is dedicated to producing terroir-driven wines of exceptional elegance, depth and character.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2015 Meritage – Sold out
2016 Riesling Sketches of Niagara – $19.95 at the winery or the LCBO
2015 Chardonnay, Robyn’s Block – Sold out
2013 Lenko Vineyard Chardonnay – Sold out
2015 David’s Block Cabernet Franc – Sold out
Tawse 2013 Quarry Road Chardonnay – Sold out
The Foreign Affair
In 2000, taking a leap of faith, Len and Marisa Crispino bought prime farmland in the Vineland area of the Niagara Peninsula starting their journey to becoming one of the pioneers of appassimento in Canada. They then sourced quality vinifera varietals from Europe (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling) and after three years, the first crop was harvested in 2004.
When the grapes have fully ripened, the best bunches are hand harvested and placed gently in single layers on racks to air dry in their drying barns. They are left to dry naturally until their weight is reduced to approximately half, which can take between 2 and 3 months. The grapes are then hand sorted and crushed. This process concentrates the ripe flavours and adds the full-bodied character they are so well known for.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2015 Dream (red) – Sold out
2015 Temptress (red) – Sold out
The Organized Crime Winery
This small boutique winery is located on the Beamsville Bench of the Niagara Peninsula. Their parcel of south-facing land lies over the hillside edges of the Bench, and provides an ideal environment for cool climate winegrowing.
They farm the land themselves and assist in the winemaking throughout all stages of the process. Production volumes are very small. They lean towards the passion side of the business, rather than the commercial.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2017 Cuvée Krystyna Chardonnay – Sold out
2017 Limestone Block Chardonnay – $21 at the winery
2016 Cabernet Franc – $42 at the winery
Thirty Bench Wine Makers
“The Bench” is a narrow plateau that slopes gradually from the cliff of the Niagara Escarpment. Its mineral-rich soils, unique topography and favourable airflow patterns have made it one of Niagara’s most coveted sub appellations for growing grapes. Being tucked beneath the Escarpment offers the vineyards a longer season that allow grapes more time to ripen and cooler nights that help intensify flavours.
Thirty Bench wines are made exclusively with grapes from their own vineyards. The vines are hand cropped and thinned to produce very low yields that offer exceptional quality and an intensity of fruit.
They are committed to “Small Lot” winemaking which means many of the wines are made in extremely limited numbers.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2017 Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard – $29.95 at the winery
2017 Small Lot Riesling Steel Post Vineyard – Sold out at winery
2017 Small Lot Gewurztraminer – $29.95 at the winery
Trius Winery
It’s been over 27 years since Trius Red, a Bordeaux blend-inspired wine produced by Hillebrand Winery entered the international wine scene when it became the first-ever Canadian vintage to be recognized as the Best Red Wine in the World. In addition to positioning Trius Red as the little big red that could, the win marked an important step for the Canadian wine industry, sending a signal that Canada’s wine could stand on their own against old world wines.
While Trius Red was originally the only Trius wine in the Hillebrand Winery portfolio, over time the portfolio grew to include sparkling wines and other offerings including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling. In 2012, Trius Winery was born.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2017 Showcase Clean Slate Sauvignon Blanc Wild Ferment – Sold out
2016 Red Shale Cabernet Franc Clark Farm Vineyard- $65 at the winery
Two Sisters Vineyards
Two Sisters is located at the northern tip of the Niagara River sub-appellation bordered by the Niagara River to the East and Lake Ontario to the North. The river’s flow creates air convection currents which create moderate temperatures and draw cold air away from vineyards and into the river gorge. To the north, breezes from Lake Ontario provide a reliable and widely distributed moderating effect on temperatures throughout the seasons. These air currents ward off early spring and late fall frosts and most notably support an extended growing season giving us an advantage on their later-ripening varieties.
Two Sisters is committed to produce ultra-premium reds which require superior viticultural practices. They emphasize the varieties the estate grows best with their terroir; Cabernet Franc with its earthy structure, Cabernet Sauvignon for its rich, muscular presence and Merlot for its perfumed, elegant harmony between red and dark fruit aroma and taste. Their objective is to let the grapes hang well into the autumn.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2016 Unoaked Chardonnay – Sold out at winery
2013 Stone Eagle Special Selection (red)- $77.80 at the winery, Sold out at LCBO
Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate
Nestled into 11.5 acres of the Niagara Peninsula, the Niagara Estate vineyard makes the most of this cool climate viticulture region.
Premium quality grapes flourish around Niagara-on-the-Lake because of the warming and cooling influences of Lake Ontario and its proximity to the Niagara Escarpment. The Niagara Estate produces the same high quality wines that you would associate with similar world-class regions such as Burgundy, Oregon and New Zealand, but with its own distinctive characteristics resulting from the unique terroir of the area.
The vineyard features 3 classic varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling grown from the finest vinifera clones and rootstocks, custom grafted in France. The winemakers also work very closely with a number of carefully selected grape growers in the Niagara region to augment their supply of premium vinifera grapes such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc.
The wines of recent notoriety:
2016 Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Grand Reserve Merlot – $25.95 at the winery, Sold out at LCBO
Personal Taste
Prices can range dramatically on the wines within and between the various wineries. Some of the wineries are mainstays that have been producing great wine for many years. Others are newer to the industry and are making an impressive name for themselves.
On numerous occasions I have enjoyed the wines of Flat Rock Cellars, Jackson-Triggs, Konzelmann Estate, Malivoire Winery, Marynissen Estates, Peller Estates, Rosehall Run, Tawse, and Trius. More recently I have discovered Two Sisters (a winner in my opinion).
I have yet to have the opportunity to try any wines from Big Head Wines, Creekside, Hidden Bench Estate Winery, Leaning Post, Thirty Bench, Organized Crime or The Foreign Affair.
I must admit that I have tried both Trius and Megalomaniac wines but did not find either to my liking. That is not to say that their wines are not good, they just don’t strike a chord for me. Trius is, in fact, one of the most critically acclaimed wineries in Canada and has been for many years so the quality of their wines is top notch.
If you get the chance to visit any of these wineries or see their wines in your local wine or liquor store, any of their wines would be well worth a try. Don’t limit yourself specifically to the particular wines I have highlighted here.
The practice to sell wine before it’s bottled, commonly known as “en primeur” or wine futures, is well established across many wine regions like Burgundy, the Rhône Valley, Piedmont Port and in particular, Bordeaux. The major châteaux of Bordeaux offer about 80% to 90% of their previous year’s wine production for sale as futures.
Beginning in late March or early April, the châteaus host tastings for the trade to evaluate the potential quality of the vintage harvested during the previous autumn. This is the first opportunity to purchase the new vintage. At that point the wines have just been placed into barrels and are still about two years from reaching the market in bottles.
Over the course of the spring, the châteaux release their trade prices for the vintage based on the initial response to the wines, as well as current economic conditions. It will be interesting to see how this proceeds this spring given the COVID-19 pandemic and the resulting effects on the economy.
The wines first go through courtiers (brokers) who take a small percentage of the cost. Next the right to sell the futures is passed on to the négociants (shippers), who set a new price for the wine, referred to as the ex-négoce price. With very few exceptions, no one deals directly with Bordeaux’s châteaux; they deal with the négociants.
Why Buy Wine Futures?
There are a few advantages of buying wine futures. The wine is often the least expensive at the first release because the margins made by wine merchants are the smallest. It is common for the price of the wine to increase and the margins made by wine merchants to also increase once the wine is offered for sale in the bottle.
Futures may be the only way for individuals to obtain high quality, low quantity, hard to find wine as such wines are often sold out prior to them being available for distribution.
Futures enable an individual to purchase a special wine for a special birth year, or as a gift or for weddings and anniversaries.
Futures enable people to purchase the latest vintage of wines that they like to get every year and where there is generally strong demand, such as Mouton Rothschild, La Mission Haut Brion, Cheval Blanc, Lynch Bages, Montrose, Pichon Lalande, Pontet Canet and Haut Bailly.
Wine futures, like other commodities, can be purchased with the hope or expectation that there will be a return on investment. Those who invest do so to secure high-quality wines at the best prices, but there’s no guarantee that they will be more expensive upon release.
Other Considerations
The wines are often not quite ready for consumption at the time they are released for distribution. This then requires the purchaser to have a suitable location to store the wine until it is actually consumed. Suggestions on cellaring wine can be found in my post from August 24, 2019, “Drink or lay down and how to cellar those you keep”.
Since any wine you purchase in this manner won’t be delivered for about 2 years, you will need to keep track of what you ordered, the quantity you ordered, the anticipated delivery date, and how much you deposited and what portion is due on delivery.
Selecting & Ordering Futures
I have purchased Bordeaux futures several times through my local liquor store. Once a year the store releases a catalogue containing all of the wine futures they have access to that particular year. The catalogue provides reviewers comments about each release, a scoring of the wine, the price per bottle, and the number of bottles available.
On the identified sale date, individuals can then order their selections either online or by calling a specified telephone number.
Realizing the Futures
When the wines are released from the winery they will be shipped to the wine merchant, who then contacts the purchaser. Since the wines are packaged and shipped direct from the chateau they are securely packed and often in a wooden crate that clearly identifies the chateau.
The wines can then either be cellared in the crate or placed on a shelf or wine rack until you are ready to enjoy them.
I recently read an article announcing that the Sandbanks Winery, one of the first in Prince Edward County, has been sold to Arterra. Catherine Langlois had operated the winery since its inception in 2001. Over the years Sandbanks has become most famous for its Baco Noir, Marechal Foch, and Riesling. Over the years there have been some other wonderful creations, such as the one time offering of a bold red that was a personal favourite, which I believe was called Bin 41.
Since inception Sandbanks Winery has proven to be a great place to visit and sample their award-winning wines. I have always found their staff to be knowledgeable and friendly. The uniqueness of their wine even included the labels, which were designed by a family friend.
It is not surprising that Sandbanks had received such attention by Arterra, given Sandbank’s dominance in Prince Edward Country.
According to the press release, by joining Arterra, Sandbanks will now have the resources and expertise to further enhance the winery’s capabilities.
So Who is Arterra?
Arterra Wines Canada has grown and evolved to owning and distributing 100+ wine brands, including seven of the top 20 brands in Canada. Its Canadian headquarters is in Mississauga, Ontario. Arterra Wines Canada operates eight wineries and over 1,700 acres of premium vineyards in Canada’s wine regions.
It also owns and operates Wine Rack retail wine stores in Ontario and sells wine kits and products for winemaking through its RJS Craft Winemaking brand. It employs approximately 2,000 full-time and part-time staff across the country.
Arterra has been making wines in Niagara and the Okanagan for the past 150 years. According to their web site, Arterra Wines Canada has been a pioneer in the Canadian wine industry with their origins dating back to 1874 when the Niagara Falls Wine Company was founded. One hundred twenty years later, they became known as Vincor International. Throughout the 20th century, wineries like Jackson-Triggs and NK’Mip were founded and acquired. Also purchased were New Zealand’s Kim Crawford.
In 2006, they were acquired by Constellation Brands, a U.S.-based company that is a leading international producer and marketer of beer, wine and spirits. In 2016, the Canadian branch of Constellation Brands was acquired by the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan, and Arterra Wines Canada was born.
In addition to the most recent acquisition of Sandbanks, and the wineries mentioned above, Arterra controls Inniskillen, and Le Clos Jordanne. Internationally, they have Sawmill Creek, Bodacious, Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi, Ruffino, Naked Grape, BÙ By Jessica Harno, and Wallaroo Trail.
According to Arterra, Catherine will continue to drive the Sandbanks brand for years to come. Hopefully that will be the case. Even if Catherine remains at the helm it will be interesting to see what direction the winery heads in now.
Whether there will be an impact on the smaller privately run wineries in the region remains to be seen. My guess however, is that impact, if any, will be minimal as most of these wineries are not marketing their products nationally or internationally. In fact, the sale may prove good for their businesses as people touring wineries often want to visit the grassroots operations, not the perceived big conglomerates where there is at least a perception of being impersonal.
We will have to wait and see what is now in store for Sandbanks for 2020 and beyond. I, for one, truly enjoy their wines and hope they remain top notch for years to come.
A Layman's Wine Musings 