A Rose by Another Name

There are in excess of 100 grape varietals that have 2 or more uniquely different names.  Many of these have multiple names within the same country!  I have compiled a list of the more common ones that make an appearance in wine stores in North America.

So what’s in a name? Are they always interchangeable, or does their place and name hold a clue to their style?

Where a grape is grown may greatly impact its flavour.  I have compiled some examples where this is the case.

Red Varietals

Blaufränkisch grapes, also known as Lemberger, Kékfrankos, Frankovka, and Frankinja, are found in the temperate and distinctly continental latitudes of Central Europe.  In eastern Austria, it’s known as Blaufränkisch. In southern Germany, it’s Lemberger. It also goes by Kékfrankos in Hungary, Frankovka in northern Croatia and western Slovakia and Frankinja in eastern Slovenia. No matter the name, it produces quality reds that age well. It also forms part of Egri Bikaver, Hungary’s historic “bulls’ blood” wine.

Fairly full-bodied for such northerly reaches, Blaufränkisch produces structured, elegant wines.  Cooler vintages or sites add an irresistible pepperiness to the usually dark-fruit spectrum, where there are notes of dark cherry and blueberry.

Vinified in stainless steel, Blaufränkisch is sometimes confused with fuller-bodied Gamay. However, when aged in small, new oak barrels, Blaufränkisch attains some punch and needs to be laid down for a few years to return to its inherent subtlety.

Grenache, also known as Garnacha and Cannonau is known for its luscious red fruit flavours. Grenache is an archetypal Mediterranean variety. It needs full sun, will withstand heat and drought and it thrives on meager, stony soils.

Grenache is full-bodied without being tannic. It can also make charming, aromatic reds in the Rhône cru villages of Vinsobres, Rasteau, Gigondas and Vacqueyras. As Cannonau in Sardinia, it’s bigger, stronger and bolder.

Malbec, also known as Côt, is synonymous with Argentina, where this aromatic, black grape revels in the bright, high-altitude sunshine of the Andes.

Malbec is sometimes referred to as Côt in France. It’s even one of the five permitted varieties in red Bordeaux, even though it ripens unreliably there.  In France’s cooler Loire Valley, Côt produces wines that are very fresh, and often spicy.

The Mourvèdre grape also referred to as Monastrell, Mataro, Rossola Near and Garrut, is a thick-skinned, small-berried grape of Spanish origin that thrives in hot climates. Mourvèdre is at home on the Mediterranean coast in Spain, where it’s called Monastrell, and forms the gutsy, heavy, tannic reds of Yecla, Jumilla and Alicante.  In Australia, where it’s known as Mataro, it is included in Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre blends.

The Primitivo grape of Italy is also known as Tribidrag or Crljenak Kaštelanski in its native Croatia and Montenegro, as Primitivo in Puglia and as Zinfandel in California.

As a red wine, Zinfandel always boasts full, juicy and plump fruit that covers a spectrum of ripeness, often with elevated alcohol levels of up to 14%.  In Puglia, Primitivo is smooth and warming. On an inland elevation, Gioia del Colle produces the freshest versions, while coastal Primitivo di Manduria is strong, dense and powerful. In Croatia and Montenegro, Tribidrag is produced as a fruity local wine.

Syrah, also known as Shiraz, can taste almost like polar opposites depending on the climate. Syrah was traditionally a French grape found in the Northern Rhône region.  There the grape has firm, drying tannins and is more slender.

Known as Shiraz in Australia, the grape is most distinct in the hot Barossa and warm McLaren Vale regions, but it also thrives in cooler Canberra. Australian Shiraz is often described as peppery, big and bold.

White Varietals

Chenin Blanc is also known as Pineau de la Loire and Steen.  It is native to France’s cool Loire Valley, where it is also called Pineau de la Loire. Its acid is high, and its expression always tinged with apple flavors that range from green to dried.

It’s inherent acidity makes Chenin Blanc a popular grape in South Africa, where it’s referred to as Steen.

Pinot Gris, also known as Pinot Grigio, Grauburgunder, Fromenteau, Pinot Beurot, Ruländer, Malvoisie, Pinot Jaune and Szürkebarát, may range from being an easy-drinker to a full-flavoured white.

Easy-drinking, lighter versions are often labeled Pinot Grigio, while rounder wines, often with some residual sweetness, are designated Pinot Gris. Pinot Gris makes full-fruited, rounded whites heavy enough to accompany red meat and are suitable for aging.

The Vermentino grape is also known as Rolle, Pigato, and Favorita and thrives in Italy, France and on the islands of Corsica and Sardini., prized for its fine, crisp acidity.

On its own, Vermentino displays citrus aromatics and inherent crispness. From the Tuscan coast, it evokes a citrus-scent.  Pigato, from Liguria, while still fresh, is a little more robust and structured.

As Vermentino di Gallura from Sardinia, the grape is fuller-bodied with intense, medicinal notes of lemon balm and yarrow. When grown in places such as Italy’s Piedmont region, it is known as Favorita.  There the grape takes on an aromatic quality. More recently, Vermentino is also finding a new home in Australia.

The Lists

Below is a more complete list of both red and white varietals and countries where they are located. 

Reds

VarietalLocation
Blaufränkisch / LimbergerAustria, Germany, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, Croatia, Italy, USA
Corvina / CorvinoneItaly
Douce Noir / Charbono / Bonarda / TurcaFrance; California; Argentina
Gamay / Gamay NoirFrance Loire Valley
Grenache / Garnacha / Cannonau  / Lladoner Pelut / Lledoner PelutSpain, France, Australia
Kindzmarauli/ SaperaviGeorgia
Lacrima di Morro / Lacrima NearItaly, Marche
Magarach Bastardo / Bastardo MagarachUkraine
Magaratch Ruby / Magarach RubyUkraine
Magliocco Canino / MaiolicaItaly, Calabria
Magliocco Dolce / Marsigliana NearItaly, Calabria
Malbec / Auxerrois / CotFrance, Argentina, USA, Australia
Malvasia di Schierano / Malvasia NearGreece
Mandelaria / Mandelari / AmorghianoGreece
Mavrodafni / MavrodaphneGreece, Achaea
Mavrud / MavroudiBulgaria, Thrace
Mencía / Jaén ColouradoSpain, Galicia
Millot  / Léon MillotFrance
Montù / MontuniItaly
Mourvèdre / Monastrell / Mataro / Rossola Nera / GarrutSpain, France, Australia
Négrette /  Pinot St. GeorgeFrance
Nerello Mascalese / Nerello CappuccioItaly, Sicily
Perricone / GuarnacciaItaly, Sicily
Pinot Meunier / Schwarzriesling / MüllerebeFrance
Pinot Noir / Spätburgunder / Blauburgunder / Pinot Nero  France
Plavina / Brajda Mala / Brajdica / Bratkovina / Jurkovica / Marasovka /Modrulj / Plavac Plavina / Plavinac / Plavina Mala / Plavina Sitnah / Plavina Velka / Plavka / Plavka Mala / Velika PlavkaCroatia, Dalmatia
Refosco / RefoškItaly
Rouchet / Ruché / RocheItaly
Rufete / Tinta Pinheira / Tinta Carvalha / RufetaPortugal
Schiava / Trollinger / VernatschItaly, Germany
Sciascinoso / Olivella NearItaly
Syrah / ShirazFrance, Australia
Shiroka Melnishka Losa / MelnikBulgaria
Sousão / Souzão / SousónPortugal
St. Laurent / SvatovavrineckeFrance, Czech Republic, Austria
Tempranillo / Aragónez / Tinta Roriz / Ull de Llebre / Cencibel / Tinta del PaisSpain
Tinta Negra Mole / Preto MartinhoPortugal
Touriga Franca / Touriga FrancesaPortugal
Touriga Nacional / Azal Espanhol / Preto de MortáguaPortugal
Trincadeira / Castelão / TorneiroPortugal
Uva di Troia / Nero di Troia / Sumarello / Uva di Canosa / Uva di Barletta / Troiano / Tranese / Uva della MarinaItaly
Vaccarese / Vaccarèse/ Brun ArgentéFrance
Valdiguié / Brocol / Napa Gamay / Gamay 15France
Wildbacher / Blauer WildbacherAustria
Zinfandel / Crljenak Kaštelanski / Tribidrag  / PrimitivoCroatia, Italy, USA, Montenegro
Zweigelt / Zweigeltrebe / RotburgerAustria

Whites

VarietalLocation
Aidani / Aidini / AedaniGreece
Albariño / Alvarinho / Cainho brancoSpain
Altesse / RoussetteFrance
Ansonica / InzoliaItaly
Arany sárfehér / IzsákiHungary
Arinto / Assario brancoPortugal
Arrufiac / Arrufiat / RuffiacFrance
Biancame / BianchelloItaly
Bical / Borrado das MoscasPortugal
Burger / MonbadonFrance
Cayetana / Calagraño / Jaén blanca / GarridoSpain
Chasselas / Fendant / Gutedel / Weisser GutedelSwitzerland, Germany
Chenin blanc / Pineau de la Loire / SteenFrance, South Africa, USA, Australia, New Zealand
Coda di Volpe / Guarnaccia BiancaItaly
Courbu / Xuri Zerratua / Bordelesa ZuriFrance
Crouchen / Clare Riesling / Cape RieslingFrance, Australia, South Africa
Fetească albă / Fetiaska / LeànykaRomania
Folle blanche / Gros Plant / PiquepoultFrance
Freisamer / FreiburgerGermany
Furmint / Mosler / SiponHungary, Slovenia, Croatia
Garganega / Grecanico / GrecanioItaly
Garnacha blanca / Grenache blancSpain
Gewürztraminer / Tramini / TraminacFrance
Gros Manseng / Izkiriota HandiFrance
Knipperle / Klein RauschlingFrance
Macabeo / Macabeu / ViuraSpain, France
Maria Gomes / Fernão PiresPortugal
Melon de Bourgogne / MuscadetFrance
Merseguera / Verdil / VerdosillaSpain
Moschofilero / MoscophileroGreece
Müller-Thurgau / RivanerSwitzerland
Muscadelle  / TokayFrance, Australia
Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains / Muscat Frontignan / Muskateller / Moscatel branco / FrontignanGreece
Palomino / Listan / PerrumPortugal
Pampanuto / PampaninoItaly
Pecorino / PecorelloItaly
Pedro Ximénez / PX / AlamísSpain
Petit Manseng / Izkiriota TtipiFrance
Picardin / Picardan / Aragnan BlancFrance
Picpoul / Piquepoul blanc / Piquepoul grisFrance
Pinot Blanc / Pinot Bianco / Klevner / WeissburgunderFrance, Germany
Pinot Gris / Pinot Grigio / Grauburgunder  / Fromenteau / Pinot Beurot / Ruländer / Malvoisie / Pinot Jaune / SzürkebarátFrance, Italy, Germany, International
Prié Blanc / Blanc de MorgexItaly
Prosecco / GleraItaly
Ribolla Gialla / RobolaGreece
Riesling / Johannisberg Riesling / Rheinriesling / KlingelbergerGermany, South Africa, International
Sauvignon Blanc / Sauvignon GrisFrance, International
Sauvignon Vert / Sauvignonasse / Friulano / Tocai FriulanoItaly
Savagnin / Savagnin Blanc / TraminerFrance
Sereksia / Băbească AlbaMoldavia, Romania
Silvaner / Sylvaner / ÖsterreicherCentral Europe
Torrontés / Torontel / Moscatel de AustriaArgentina
Tourbat / TorbatoFrance
Trebbiano / Ugni BlancItaly
Treixadura / TrajaduraPortugal
Trousseau Gris / Grey RieslingFrance
Verdelho / Gouveio / VerdelloPortugal
Verdiso / VerdiaItaly
Vermentino / Rolle/ Pigato / FavoritaItaly, France, Corsica, Sardinia, Australia
Welschriesling / Riesling Italico / Olaszrizling / Lazki Rizling / GraševinaCentral Europe
Zierfandler / SpätrotAustria

Selecting a wine can be confusing enough without adding the complication of a single varietal having multiple names.  Hopefully this helps remove some of the mystery for you.

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The Wines of Lebanon

Lebanon is among the oldest sites of wine production in the world.  The Phoenicians of the coastal strip were instrumental in spreading wine and viticulture throughout the Mediterranean in ancient times.  For this reason, Lebanon is included as an ‘old world’ wine producer along with the wine nations of Europe.

Despite the many conflicts in the region, Lebanon manages to produce about 8,500,000 bottles of wine each year.  The majority of this wine comes from the Bekaa Valley, which produces some wonderful red wines.

One of the best known labels internationally is Chateau Musar, which is renowned for its bordeaux-like structure. This winery has been creating international attention since the 1970s. For a long time, Musar was a lone success; but since the mid-2000s new winemakers have started to emerge. These new producers are creating a style they feel is more “Lebanese”, with less European influence. Using different grape varieties and techniques they are creating wines with a definitive sense of place.

Chateau Kefraya’s oaked Bordeaux-blended red and Ksara’s dry rosé are great examples of the new producers as well as Massaya, a serious red wine enterprise backed by top quality St-Émilion and Châteauneuf expertise.  Other up and coming ventures include Chateaux Belle-Vue, Khoury, St Thomas and Domaines de Baal, des Tourelles and Wardy.

One member of the new breed of vintner is the head of Domaine des Tourelles, Faouzi Issa. He is a Château Margaux–trained winemaker who believes the future of Lebanese wine lies not with Cabernet, but with the Lebanese Cinsaut grape.  The floral, slightly spicy Cinsaut tastes like Pinot Noir.

Other producers are championing native varietals such as Merwah and Obaideh. Château Ksara launched its first 100 percent Merwah in 2017; a single-vineyard white with notes of citrus and melon. Château Kefraya has gone further, testing a dozen native grapes including Assali el Arous, Inab el Mir and Assouad Karech, as well as aging the wines in amphorae, which is a tall ancient Greek or Roman jar with two handles and a narrow neck, in recognition of the grapes’ Phoenician heritage.

Naji and Jill Boutros returned home from work careers in London to begin producing wine in Bhamdoun, the small mountain village where Naji was raised. Today their winery, Chateau Belle-Vue, supplies its reds to Michelin-starred restaurants in London and Chicago. And it has breathed new life into a community that has been decimated by war.

In Canada we are fortunate enough to have Lebanese wines occasionally available in the Vintages Section of the local liquor stores. I’d suggest they’re worth giving a try.

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How Sweet Wine Is

The sweetness of a wine is determined by how our taste buds interpret the interaction of a wine’s sugar content, the relative level of alcohol, acid and tannins. Sugars and alcohol enhance a wine’s sweetness; acids (sourness) and bitter tannins counteract it.

Among the components influencing how sweet a wine will taste is residual sugar. It is usually measured in grams of sugar per litre of wine (g/l). Residual sugar typically refers to the sugar remaining after fermentation stops, but it can also result from the addition of unfermented must (a German practice known as Süssreserve) or ordinary table sugar.

Even among the driest wines, it is rare to find wines with a level of less than 1 g/l. By contrast, any wine with over 45 g/l would be considered sweet, though many of the great sweet wines have levels much higher than this. The sweetest form of the Tokaji or Eszencia, contains over 450 g/l, with some vintages reaching 900 g/l. Such wines are balanced by the use of acidity. This means that the finest sweet wines are made with grape varieties that keep their acidity even at very high ripeness levels, such as Riesling and Chenin Blanc.

The sweetness of a wine is also controlled by factors such as the acidity and alcohol levels, the amount of tannin present, and whether the wine is sparkling or not. A sweet wine such as a Vouvray can actually taste dry due to the high level of acidity.  A dry wine can taste sweet if the alcohol level is increased.  

Medium and sweet wines are perceived by many consumers as being of lower quality than dry wines. However, many of the world’s great wines, such as those from Sauternes  or Tokaji, have a high level of residual sugar, which is carefully balanced with additional acidity.

People with more proteins in their saliva do not feel the drying effect of tannin as much as people with less. Another interesting fact is that the taste of tannin is reduced when paired with salty and fatty foods.

Our sense of smell also greatly affects our perception of sweetness. A wine that smells sweeter will also taste sweeter. Wine varieties are often referred to as ‘Aromatic’ because of their sweet floral aromas.  A few examples of this are Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Torrontés, and Moscato.

The sweetness scale for wine ranges from bone dry to dry, off-dry, semi-sweet, sweet and very sweet.

THE WHITE WINE SCALE

Bone Dry with flavours of lemons and minerals

  • Pinot Grigio (Italy)
  • Pinot Gris (France)
  • Albariño (Spain)
  • Garganega (Italy)
  • Dry Furmint (Hungary)
  • Gavi (Italy)
  • Muscadet (France)
  • Chablis (France)
  • Grenache Blanc (Spain, France)
  • Macabeo (Spain, France)
  • Vinho Verde (Portugal)
  • Grillo (Italy)
  • Arinto (Portugal)

Dry with Savory and herb flavours

  • Sauvignon Blanc (France)
  • Verdejo (Spain)
  • Grüner Veltliner (Austria, Hungary, Slovakia, and the Czech Republic)
  • Veroiccho (Italy)
  • Colombard (France, California)

Dry with flavours of grapefruit and green apple

  • Vermentino (Italy)
  • Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand)
  • Dry Chenin Blanc (France)
  • Dry Torrontés (Argentina)

Dry with flavours of yellow apple and pineapple

  • Chardonnay (France, Australia, North America)
  • Marsanne (Switzerland, France)
  • Roussanne (France)
  • Sémellon (France, Australia)
  • Trebbiano (Italy, France)

Dry with flavours of peach and lemon

  • Pinot Gris (United States, Canada)
  • Viogner (France, Australia, North America, South America, New Zealand, South Africa)
  • Dry Riesling (Germany, Australia, Hungary, Washington State, Canada)

Off-Dry with flavours of honeycomb and lemon

  • Kabinett Riesling (Germany)
  • Spätlese Riesling (Austria)
  • Chenin Blanc (France)
  • Torrontés (Argentina)
  • Müller Thurgau

Semi-Sweet with flavours of tropical fruit

  • Moscato (Italy)
  • Gewürztraminer (Germany)

Sweet with flavours of sweet lemon and honey

  • Late Harvest white wine (Everywhere)
  • Sauternes (France)
  • Ice Wine (Canada)
  • Auslese Riesling (Germany)
  • Tokaji (Hungary)

Very Sweet with flavours of golden raisin, fig and apricot

  • White Port (Portugal)
  • Moscatel Dessert Wine (United States)
  • Passito (Italy)
  • Vin Santo (Italy)

THE RED WINE SCALE

Bone Dry with a bold, bitter finish

  • Tannat (France, Uruguay, Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, South Africa, Italy
  • Nebbiolo (Italy)
  • Sagrantino (Italy, Australia)
  • Malbec (France)

Bone Dry with savory flavours

  • Chianti (Italy)
  • Bordeaux (France)
  • Tempranillo (Spain)
  • Mourvèdre (France)
  • Anglianico (Italy)
  • Barbera (Italy)
  • Montepulciano (Italy)

Dry with flavours of vegetables and herbs

  • Sangiovese (Italy)
  • Carménère (France)
  • Cabernet Franc (France, Canada)
  • Lagrein (Italy, California)
  • Cabernet Sauvignon (France, Canada)

Dry with flavours of tart fruits and flowers

  • Mencía (Spain)
  • Valpolicella (Italy)
  • Rhône Blend (France)
  • Beaujolais (France)
  • Burgundy (France)
  • Syrah (France)
  • Merlot (France)
  • Trincadeira (Portugal)

Dry with flavours of ripe fruits and spices

  • Garnacha (France, Spain)
  • Amarone Della Valpolicella (Italy)
  • Negroamaro (Italy)
  • Pinotage (South Africa, Brazil, Canada, Israel, New Zealand, United States, Zimbabwe
  • Cabernet Sauvignon (Australia, Argentina, Chile, California)
  • Merlot (United States, Canada)
  • Alfrocheiro (Portugal)
  • Alicante Bouschet (France)

Dry with flavours of fruit sauce and vanilla

  • Shiraz (Australia, Chile, California)
  • Monastrell (Spain)
  • Malbec (Argentina)
  • Nero D’Avola (Italy)
  • Petite Syrah (United States)
  • Primitivo (Italy)
  • Zinfandel (California)
  • Grenache (California)
  • Touriga Nacional (Portugal)

Semi-sweet with flavours of candied fruit and flowers

  • Lambrusco (Italy)
  • Brachetto D’Acqui (Italy)
  • Recioto Della Valpolicella (Italy)

Sweet with flavours of fruit jam and chocolate

  • Port (Portugal)
  • Banyuls (France)
  • Maury (France)

Very sweet with flavours of figs raisins and dates

  • Tawny Port (Portugal)
  • Vin Santo (Italy)

Final Thoughts

Depending on where a grape is grown, the characteristics may change somewhat.  The climate and soil can be a great influence over taste.  For example Pinot Noir from Burgundy, France can be very different from the same varietal grown in Canada or the United States.  The same applies to any other varietal grown in multiple climates.

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Romanian Wines

When Romania joined the European Union in 2007, it began the task of creating a good reputation for producing quality Romanian wines.  Five years were spent reviewing and organizing its wine industry. New wine laws covering production standards and labeling have been put in place and they have continued to evolve.  The three quality categories are Vin de Masa (Table Wine), Vin cu Indicatie Geografica (IGP) and Denumire de Origine Controlata (AOP/DOC equivalent).

There has been an emergence of good quality, small Romanian wine producers. These wineries have a completely different approach to wine making than the large volume producers. This has resulted in the development of some premium Romanian wine.  However, there is still a lot of low-quality, high-volume production. It has been reported that only about a third of Romanian vineyards use high quality grapes. This is the lowest percentage in Europe.

International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) statistics place Romania as fifth in Europe and tenth in the world for the area under vine. This puts Romania in a similar situation to Chile and Portugal when comparing the portion of the country under vine.  Wine production is slightly above that of New Zealand.

The Romanian wine-making industry suffered during the communist era as a result of quantity being prioritized over quality. With the end of communism the country had to deal with hyperinflation and hard economic times and the wine industry suffered further as a result.  During this time mass market wine, “cheap plonk”, became the main export, giving Romanian wine a bad reputation for producing low quality wine.

However, since then the wine industry is improving.  During the past few years a new generation of wine makers has been developing. These small, craft producers have taken advantage of EU funds to invest in new winemaking technology.

They have begun replanting older vines with better quality clones and are experimenting with the winemaking style, taking a new world approach to the process.  Grape-growing expertise has been brought in from France and Germany to help make the most from the terrain.

These niche producers dedicate a percentage of their produce to premium, high-quality wine that feature the best grapes and have the highest care and attention. In response to the growing demand for quality wine, some of the well-established large producers have also started to make more premium wine.

Most Romanian wine producers are now making wine from a mix of international and indigenous grapes, although there are a number of producers that focus exclusively on international grape varieties. Many of the high-quality clones are French.  While Romania’s domestic preference is for white wines, red varietals are on the rise to compete with the international market.

The most popular international white grape varieties are Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc, while the reds include Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Pinot Noir.

There are also some Romanian grape varieties that can be very good as well.  These include:

  • Fetească, which is used to make dry, fresh, perfumed white wines. It has some body and can be barrel fermented for more complexity.
  • Tămȃioasă Romȃnească (‘frankincense grape’) or Romanian Muscat, which is a clone of the Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains, one of the world’s oldest grape varieties. It results in perfumed and aromatic white wines.
  • Fetească Neagra is a red wine which is full-bodied and contains a medium amount of tannins. These wines become velvety with age and contain aromas of spice and black or red fruit.

Romanian wines have the name of the grape varietal on the label, making it easier to identify the type of wines you like.

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