Month: December 2023

The Best Irish Whiskeys Of 2023

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At the end of November, The Irish Whiskey Association announced the 2023 Irish Whiskey Awards winners. Now having over 40 distilleries, Ireland has reemerged as a powerhouse in the international whiskey industry and is now the fastest-growing whiskey making country in the world.

Whiskey tastings were conducted throughout Ireland with members of the Irish Whiskey Society. Events took place in Dublin, Dingle, Cork, Waterford, Kilkenny, Ennis, Carlow and Belfast. There was also a select group of international whiskey judges.

The Best Irish Whiskey of the Year prize was awarded to Connacht Irish Whiskey Distillery, Exclusive Cask Strength, Single Malt Irish Whiskey, 47% ABV, 750 ml.

Connacht’s single malt whiskey is a triple-distilled whiskey produced at their distillery in Ballina, County Mayo. The distillery was founded by Master Distiller Robert Cassell in 2016, along with a team of Irish whiskey entrepreneurs who saw the potential of northwest Ireland’s unique climate to produce an iconic Irish whiskey. The region is characterized by dramatic swings in atmospheric pressure that contributes to producing a flavourful, heavily extracted whiskey. The use of custom-designed stills further enhances the unique character of the whiskey.

Other winners included:

Single Pot Still 11 Years and Under

  • Winner: Drumshanbo Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Pinot Noir Cask
  • Gold: Jameson Single Pot Still
  • Gold: Powers Three Swallows

Single Pot Still 12 Years and Over

  • Winner: Red Spot 15 Year Old
  • Gold: Yellow Spot 12 Year Old
  • Gold: Redbreast 15 Year Old

Single Malt 11 Years and Younger

  • Winner: Jack Ryan Whiskey 5-Year-Old Oloroso Finish Cask Strength
  • Gold: Dunville’s 10 Year Old Pedro Ximenez Cask
  • Gold: The Irishman Legacy

Single Malt 12 – 15 Year Old

  • Winner: Tullamore DEW 14 Year Old
  • Gold: Knappogue Castle 12 Year Old
  • Gold: The Irishman 12 Year Old

Single Malt 16 Years & Older

  • Winner: The Irishman 17 Year Old
  • Gold: Dunville’s 21-Year-Old Palo Cortado Cask
  • Gold: McConnell’s Irish Whisky 20 Year Old Port Finish Single Cask

Blended No Age Statement

  • Winner: Writers’ Tears Double Oak
  • Gold: Jameson Crested
  • Gold: Powers Gold Label

Blended Age Statement

  • Winner: McConnell’s Irish Whisky Sherry Cask (5 years)
  • Gold: The Dead Rabbit Irish Whiskey
  • Gold: Clan Colla 13 Year Old

Blended Limited Release

  • Winner: Writers’ Tears Japanese Cask Finish
  • Gold: Dunville’s 1808 “Casked in Bond” Dick Mack’s Honey & Hemp IPA Cask, Cask No. 1451
  • Gold: Writer’s Tears Inniskillin Ice Wine

Peated Irish Whiskey

  • Winner: Micil Single Cask Release with Garavan’s Bar
  • Gold: Killowen Barántúil Single Cask KD202
  • Gold: Celtic Cask 47 Daichead a Seacht 2016 Peated Oloroso

Single Cask 11 Years & Younger

  • Winner: Celtic Cask 44 Daichead a Ceathair 2014 PX Cask Finish
  • Gold: Dunville’s PX 11 Year Old Single Malt Cask Strength
  • Gold: Dunville’s 11 Year Old Palo Cortado Cask Strength

Single Cask 12 Years & Older

  • Winner: Dunville’s 22 Year Old Palo Cortado Cask No. 1204
  • Gold: Dunville’s 20 Year Old Oloroso Cask Strength Cask No. 990 56.2% ABV
  • Gold: Dunville’s 21 Year Old PX Sherry Cask Finish – James J. Fox Single Cask

Cask Strength

  • Winner: Connacht Distillery Exclusive Cask Strength
  • Gold: Redbreast 12 Year Old Cask Strength
  • Gold: Dunville’s 20 Year Old PX Cask Strength, Cask 1644, 55% ABV

Single Grain

  • Winner: The Bridge – Galey Bay
  • Gold: The Bridge – Inny Bay
  • Gold: Method and Madness Single Grain

New Irish Whiskey

  • Winner: Pearse Genesis Irish Whiskey
  • Gold: Fercullen Single Malt
  • Gold: Fercullen Estate Series ‘The Gates’

Many of the award winners are available in the U.S. and Canada. They can also be ordered directly from the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin, Ireland.

Happy New Year!

Sláinte mhaith

Dos and Don’ts for Decanting Wine

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In the past I have written articles on whether a wine should or shouldn’t be decanted (To Breathe or Not to Breathe from November 9, 2019) and on what style of wine decanter is best (Choosing a Wine Decanter from July 18, 2020).  Today I will talk about the dos and don’ts for decanting a bottle of wine.

Decanting wine can be a great way to enhance flavour and aroma, but it’s important to do it properly to avoid ruining the wine. Here are some suggested dos and don’t dos from some wine experts.

Dos

Wines that should be decanted are young, full-bodied red wines with high tannins and bold flavours.  Wines to decant include Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Bordeaux blends.  Lighter red and white wines usually don’t need to be decanted.

Stand the bottle in an upright position for an hour or two before opening.  This will allow any sediment to settle at the bottom of the bottle.

Make sure the decanter is clean before decanting.  A dirty or musty decanter can affect the taste and aroma of the wine.

When pouring the wine into the decanter do it slowly and steadily.  Be aware of any sediment in the bottom of the bottle as you don’t want any of it in the decanter.  It is often handy to use a fine mesh strainer to catch any bits that escape from the bottle.

After decanting, let the wine sit in the decanter for at least 15 minutes before serving.  This will allow the wine to open up and release its aromas and flavours. Some wines require much more than 15 minutes, so feel free to taste the wine to decide if it needs additional time to decant.

Don’ts

Be careful not to decant the wine for too long.  If you do, the wine will lose its flavour and aroma. Generally, if you can smell the fruit flavours from the wine, it is ready to drink.

Never shake the bottle. Shaking the bottle can disturb the sediment and mix it with the wine, making it more difficult to remove the sediment.

Do not decant aged or delicate wines. These wines can be harmed by decanting. Both the flavour and aroma may be greatly weakened resulting in a flat, tasteless drink.  If in doubt, taste the wine before deciding whether to decant.

The decanter should not be filled to the top as there needs to be space to allow the wine to breathe and release its aromas. Quite often a bottle of wine will fill up to the widest part of the decanter.

By following these guidelines, you can ensure that you are receiving the most flavour and aroma experience from every bottle of wine.

Sláinte mhaith

BC’s 2023 Movers and Shakers

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These are the wineries from British Columbia that particularly caught my attention this past year. My impressions are based on several factors: the winery’s performance at both the National Wine Awards and the All Canadian Wine Championships, environmental and sustainability practices of each winery and my own thoughts.

I have listed the wineries in alphabetical order and have included several of their 2023 award winning wines. 

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Corcelettes was ranked as the second best performing small winery at this year’s National Wine Awards.  It is located on 150 acres in British Columbia’s Similkameen Valley. Charlie and Jesce Baessler blend passion, precision and science to craft their expressive, small lot premium wines. No short cuts are taken in finding balance between viticulture, the environment and winemaking.

Corcelettes first vintage was in 2011, consisting of 200 cases. They currently craft 8,200 cases of wine per year, with plans of each future vintage growing in production size.

Their portfolio includes predominantly Syrah and Pinot Noir, crafted from Similkameen grown grapes. There is also a small selection of premium wines from the Micro Lot Series; wines crafted from specially selected grapes available only in limited quantities.

In addition to this year, Corcelettes was among the Top 10 Small Wineries at the 2018, 2019 and 2021 National Wine Awards of Canada.       

This year’s Platinum and Gold award winning wines included:

  • Corcelettes 2020 Syrah Corcelettes Estate Vineyard
  • Corcelettes 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir Micro Lot Series
  • Corcelettes 2022 Oracle Rosé
  • Corcelettes 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Corcelettes Estate Vineyard
  • Corcelettes 2019 Merlot
  • Corcelettes 2020 Merlot
  • Corcelettes 2019 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Corcelettes 2020 Cabernet Franc

Deep Roots Winery

Deep Roots was awarded Best Performing Small Winery at this year’s National Wine Awards where they earned 1 Platinum, 4 Gold, 1 Silver and 4 Bronze medals.

Their Platinum and Gold winners included:

  • Deep Roots 2020 Reserve Chardonnay
  • Deep Roots 2020 Parentage Red
  • Deep Roots 2022 Gamay
  • Deep Roots 2020 Syrah
  • Deep Roots 2022 Sauvignon Blanc

Deep Roots is a family owned and operated winery situated on the clay cliffs above Okanagan Lake on the Naramata Bench, where beginning in 2003 the Hardman family began switching their 100-year-old family farm from an apple orchard to a vineyard. Today they have 19 acres of grape vines spread between two Naramata vineyards, using almost exclusively estate fruit.

Initially the grapes were all sold to CedarCreek and Lake Breeze, among others. However, that all changed in 2012 when Will Hardman broke ground to create his own winery.  There are two vineyards at two sites on the Naramata Bench where they grow Muscat, Gamay, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Malbec and Syrah grapes.

All the vineyard work is done by hand, as the Hardmans are passionate about producing grapes that are the best expressions of each varietal.

Road 13 Vineyards

At Road 13 in Oliver, B.C., they farm to protect the land. Their philosophy is that by taking care of the dirt, the dirt then can take care of the roots of the vines, thus producing the best fruit possible. Doing things right means going the extra mile, in both the vineyard and in the cellar. Winemaker, Barclay Robinson and his crew farm organically to produce the best wine possible.

Road 13’s Platinum and Gold award winning wines included the following:

  • Road 13 2020 Select Harvest GSM
  • Road 13 2013 Jackpot Sparkling Chenin Blanc
  • Road 13 2020 John Oliver Cabernet Franc
  • Road 13 2021 Viognier
  • Road 13 2020 John Oliver Petit Verdot
  • Road 13 2022 Honest John’s Rose

SpearHead Winery

SpearHead Winery of Kelowna, B.C, appears on my list of British Columbia’s list of movers and shakers for the second straight year. 

Their focus is on premium quality wine which is produced from grapes grown in their estate vineyard and from selected Okanagan Valley vineyards. The hand harvested grapes are sorted at the winery and fermented in small lots.

SpearHead produces Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling varietals.  Approximately 80% of the 15 acres of vines is comprised of Pinot Noir including four different Dijon clones, 2 California heritage clones and Pommard.  This combination of plantings enables the wine maker to select from the different characteristics of these clones to create a complex Pinot Noir from their home vineyard.  They also draw from several other vineyards in the Okanagan including Golden Retreat in Summerland and Coyote Vineyard in West Kelowna.

Their 2023 Platinum and Gold award winning wines include the following:

  • SpearHead 2020 Club Consensus Pinot Noir
  • Spearhead 2020 Golden Retreat Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2021 Saddle Block Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2021 Cuvée Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2021 Golden Retreat Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2022 Pinot Gris

Wild Goose Winery

It all began in early 1983 when founder Adolf Kruger purchased a piece of land east of Okanagan Falls.

Kruger first planted Riesling and Gewürztraminer with the intention of selling the grapes. Over the following few years, outstanding wines were produced by purchasers of the grapes leading him to the decision to make his own wine.

Wild Goose Winery became the seventeenth winery in British Columbia and was established in June 1990. The winery started producing Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Maréchal Foch. Over time Wild Goose established itself as a premium small producer of VQA wines.

In July of 2021, the Wyse family of Burrowing Owl Vineyards purchased Wild Goose Vineyards & Winery.  Wild Goose’s approach to winemaking has been to grow the highest quality fruit and then transform it into premium wines.

Wild Goose’s 2023 award winning wines include:

  • Best White Wine of the Year – 2022 Gewürztraminer
  • Best Red Wine of the Year – 2021 Pinot Noir
  • 2022 Mystic River Gewürztraminer
  • 2020 Cabernet Merlot

Sláinte mhaith

Ontario’s Movers and Shakers 2023

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It has become a bit of a tradition that as the year draws to a close that I share my thoughts as to which wineries are stepping forward to be noticed.  As usual I have based my opinions on each winery’s performance at both the National Wine Awards and the All Canadian Wine Championships, environmental and sustainability practices and my own personal impressions.

The number of wineries on my list varies from year to year as I prefer to highlight wineries that I feel have excelled. This is not to suggest that these are the only great wineries in the province; they are merely the ones that especially caught my attention this year.  The wineries are presented in alphabetical order and I have included several of each winery’s 2023 award winning wines. 

Broken Stone Winery

Having been introduced to this winery this past summer I have become a big fan.  I then did some research to see what I could find out about it.

Broken Stone began in 2009 when Tim and Micheline Kuepfer purchased three hayfields along a backroad near Hillier, in Prince Edward County.  At the time, the acre of newly planted grape vines that came with the land was almost an afterthought.  The first harvest was in 2010 when two tonnes of quality Pinot Noir grapes were picked.  An additional four acres of grapes were then planted with a vague notion that someday maybe a winery may be developed. 

In 2012 a small building was constructed and the necessary licensing to make wine was obtained.  Broken Stone Winery was born.   Since then, the Kuepfers have been balancing the busy lifestyle of raising a family in Toronto with their passion for growing vines and making wine in Prince Edward County.

The result has become a dynamic boutique winery in the heart of the Prince Edward County wine region. Their mission is to grow the highest quality grapes and craft world-class wines.  They believe that great grapes make great wine, and they strive to ensure that each great vintage is a little better than the last. Broken Stone continually strives to improve the vineyard biodiversity and soils. They strive to live in harmony with the earth and leave a legacy for future generations. 

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery

Colchester Ridge is a relatively new winery located in Harrow, which is in the Lake Erie North Shore wine region. The wine labels display the acronym CREW.

I was first introduced to CREW wines by a friend who brought my wife and I a bottle of Meritage when they came to stay with us for a weekend just prior to the pandemic. From then until this past July, my search for another bottle had been fruitless (no pun intended). Then finally I was able to order several bottles of their most recent release, the CREW 2020 Meritage.

CREW was established in 2001 by the husband and wife team of Bernie and Nancy Gorski. The Gorski’s planted twelve acres of vines on their family land in 2001 and produced their first vintage in 2004. Then in 2006 they opened their shop.  After years of continual growth, the Gorski’s launched the new CREW Winery & Gallery in November 2019.

Their award-winning wines include the following:

  • CREW  2020 Barrelman’s Blend
  • CREW  2020 Meritage
  • CREW 2018 Grand CREW Cabernet Sauvignon

Hidden Bench Estate Winery (ranked 1st at National Wine Awards)

Hidden Bench was recognized as the 2023 Winery of the Year at the National Wine Awards of Canada.  Hidden Bench has come close to top Awards before, previously competing in the small winery category. However, the winery has grown to produce now over 10,000 cases of wine each year, allowing it to qualify for the top prize. Owner Harald Thiel is committed to being an estate winery using only Beamsville Bench fruit. By controlling his own fruit, he can control the quality as well.

Hidden Bench has emerged as the signature property among several highly regarded wineries on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench, an area of gently sloping, north-facing, limestone-laced sites and maturing vineyards and wineries. All of the wines of Hidden Bench are sourced from the Beamsville Bench and are produced using a comprehensive sustainable approach.

Hidden Bench also appeared in my 2022 and 2020 Ontario lists.

Hidden Bench’s 2023 award winning wines include 2 Platinum, 5 Gold and 5 Silver winners.  The platinum and gold winning wines included the following:

  • Hidden Bench 2020 Pinot Noir Felseck Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2020 Chardonnay Tête de Cuvée Rosomel Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2020 Estate Riesling
  • Hidden Bench 2017 Natur Zero Dosage
  • Hidden Bench 2020 Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2021 Nuit Blanche Rosomel Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2021 Chardonnay Beton

Tawse Winery (Ranked 2nd at National Wine Awards)

Tawse Winery adheres to a non-interventionist philosophy and a firm belief that the start of every great wine begins in the vineyard. Their wines reflect their unique terroir near Vineland, in the heart of the Niagara wine Region.

Healthy vines yield quality fruit which allows for the creation of terroir-driven wines of great elegance, depth and character. Promoting the health of the vines and vineyards requires a labour-intensive and hands-on approach. Yields are kept low by cluster-thinning to ensure that all the energy of the vine is focused to ripen fewer, higher-quality grape clusters.

Organic farming feeds the vines and controls diseases without the use of synthetic insecticides, fungicides and fertilizers. They strive to create a diversified balanced ecosystem that generates health and fertility from the vineyard itself. Healthy vines mean less need for outside substances to control diseases and promote growth.

The architecture of the winery was created to be environmentally friendly. The wines are aged in underground cellars, which keeps the ambient temperature between 10 and 16 degrees Celsius, with a natural humidity of approximately 85%. The modern geo-thermal energy system has reduced the use of traditional forms of energy by 80%. There is also a wetland bio-filter which allows them to re-use all their sanitary and winery process water.

Tawse earned 2 Platinum, 4 Gold, 8 Silver and 5 Bronze medals this year at the National Wine Awards.  The Platinum and Gold award-winning wines include the following:

  • Tawse 2020 Carly’s Block Riesling
  • Tawse 2020 Tawse Riesling
  • Tawse 2020 Quarry Road Riesling
  • Tawse 2021 Sketches Riesling
  • Tawse 2020 Cabernet Merlot
  • Tawse 2020 Limestone Riesling Spark!

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The Whiskey Capital Booms Again

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At the dawn of the twentieth century, Ireland was the hub of the world of whiskey with Bushmills being the oldest licensed whiskey distiller in the world.  Jameson was one of the most recognized names and Dublin, the centre of it all having one of every three workers involved in some way with the whiskey industry.  At that time about three quarters of the world’s whiskey came from Ireland.

Photo credit: forbes.com

However, the events of history were not kind to the Irish whiskey trade.  Two world wars, the Irish War of Independence, Prohibition and the rise of the Scotch Whisky industry all played a part in its demise.  By the 1960s the industry was on the verge of extinction with only one percent of the world market share.

By the 1970s there were only two operational distilleries in all of Ireland; Midleton, who produces many well-known Whiskey brands including Midleton, Jameson, Powers, Redbreast, Writers Tears, The Irishman, Green Spot, Yellow Spot, Red Spot, Blue Spot amongst other labels, and Bushmills, who at the time was also then owned by the same company.

For several decades there were no working distilleries in Dublin (Midleton was located in County Cork and Bushmill was in County Antrim, Northern Ireland) but today there is a resurgence throughout Ireland, including Dublin.  In 2015 the redevelopment began in Dublin with the launch of Teeling Distillery.  Since then there have been others who set up shop including Roe & Co, Pearse Lyons and the Dublin Liberties.

Today the Irish Whiskey industry is healthier than it has been for over 120 years.   According to the Irish Whiskey Association, as of December 2019 there were 32 distilleries in operation in Ireland.

If you are planning to visit Ireland here are some of the best distilleries to visit:

DUBLIN

Pearse Lyons Distillery – Founded by the late Pearse Lyons in the Liberties district of Dublin, this boutique distillery is a unique spot to learn about the brewing and distilling processes.  It is located in the restored St James’ Church on James St.

Tullamore D.E.W. Distillery – Created in 1829 and later prospering under general manager Daniel E Williams (hence D.E.W. in the name), Tullamore D.E.W is the second largest selling brand of Irish Whiskey globally.

Teeling Whiskey Distillery – The first new distillery in Dublin for 125 years, it is located in Dublin’s historic distilling district.

Roe & Co Distillery – Named after legendary 19th-century whiskey pioneer George Roe, Roe & Co opened their doors in 2019 at the Guinness Power House.

The Dublin Liberties Distillery – Set in the district from which it takes its name, it is a modern, state-of-the-art distillery on Mill St.  You can hear the tales of trade, conflict and debauchery about the Liberties district, stretching back hundreds of years to when it was outside of the official Dublin city limits.

Jameson Distillery, Bow St. – Ireland’s most famous whiskey opened in 1780 by John Jameson.  The distillery on Bow St in Smithfield has been a staple in Dublin for over two centuries.  Although since 1971 it has operated only as a visitors’ centre.

MIDLETON

Jameson Distillery, Midleton – Midleton, in County Cork, is where the bulk of Jameson operations have taken place since 1975.

COUNTY CARLOW

Royal Oak Distillery is the first to distill all three styles of Irish whiskey: pot still, malt and grain, all under one roof.  It’s also the largest non-automated distillery in Ireland.

COUNTY CORK

Clonakilty Distillery – Single pot still whiskey is Clonakilty’s specialty. They also will explain how different woods change the character of the whiskey as it matures.

DINGLE PENINSULA

Dingle Distillery – Since 2012, the Dingle Whiskey Distillery has been distilling some excellent single pot still whiskey.

COUNTY KILKENNY

The Ballykeefe Distillery – Though only in operation since 2017, the distillery is situated on land that has a distilling heritage going back hundreds of years.  They follow the family farm traditions and have a strong commitment to sustainability.

With records of distilling going back to 1324, it’s claimed that Kilkenny is the birthplace of Irish whiskey.

COUNTY MEATH

Slane Irish Whiskey Distillery – Located 50 minutes outside of Dublin, the distillery is located in in the 250-year-old stables of Slane Castle.

WATERFORD

Waterford Distillery – Distilling since 2015, Waterford Distillery’s state-of-the-art facility is on the banks of the river Suir.

COUNTY WESTMEATH

Kilbeggan Distilling Co. – Established in 1757, it claims to be Ireland’s oldest licenced distillery and after battling through a painful closure in 1953, it was revived by locals in the 1980s who have maintained it ever since.

COUNTY WICKLOW

Powerscourt Distillery – At the foot of the Wicklow Mountains, Powerscourt Distillery is located a short drive south of Dublin. Set in The Old Mill House, the distillery was once at the heart of the local farming community.

COUNTY ANTRIM, NORTHERN IRELAND

The Old Bushmills Distillery – On the wild north coast of Ireland, the Bushmills Distillery has been in operation for over 400 years, making it one of the oldest whiskey distilleries in Ireland. Established in 1608, it claims to be the oldest licensed distillery in the world.

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