Author: A Layman's Wine Musings

Crus in Germany and Italy

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Back on March 18, 2023, I talked about France’s use of the term cru for identifying wines. In France the label is used to identify geographic terrain, specifically the soil type, climate and altitude where the grapes are grown.  The term cru is also used in Germany and Italy but there are additional variations in how the name is applied, as well as its meaning.

In Germany, the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP), an association of elite German wine estates, has its own vineyard classification system, similar to the one used in Burgundy, France. In Germany the top tier is VDP.Grosse Lage (grand cru). This is followed by VDP.Erste Lage (premier cru), then by VDP.Ortswein (village) and finally VDP.Gutswein (regional).

In Italy, cru is used in several regions, but the application between regions is not exactly the same. Piedmont and Sicily are probably the best known regions using it. In Piedmont, Barolo and Barbaresco have mapped out their grand crus by geographic area, and those vineyard explanations are part of the bylaws of their Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCGs).

Wine producers in Sicily’s Etna DOC are identifying crus that follow old lava flows and the soil and elevation changes along Mount Etna. At this point there is no formal classification system but it is anticipated to be ratified in the future.

So, if there is one thing that can be concluded regarding the use of the term cru in the labeling and description of wine, it’s that there is no consistency in its use within a country let alone between nations.

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From One Passion to the Other

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People sometimes look at me funny when I tell them I periodically write about whiskey in my wine blog.  However, here is an excellent example of how the world of one is in many ways very similar to that of the other.

Photo credit: thedrinksbusiness.com

Raimonds Tomsons, who is from Latvia, won the ASI (Association de la Sommellerie Internationale) Best Sommelier of the World competition earlier this year in Paris, France.  Prior to winning the championship, Tomsons had already made a name for himself due to his work in wine, being a board member of the Latvian Sommelier Association and having worked with several high-end restaurants and importers in Latvia.

He is now going to be the global brand ambassador for The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. of Dublin, Ireland.  Tomsons will now be applying his expertly trained nose and palate in his new role.  He sees this new endeavor as giving him the opportunity to further enhance his learning by exploring the diverse world of spirits and other beverages.

Tomsons sees that by joining Jay Bradley and his team at The Craft Irish Whiskey Co., he will have an opportunity to explore fine Irish whiskey in depth, and work on innovative whiskey and food pairings.  Bradley feels that Tomsons’’ knowledge and ability to detect nuances and layers of flavour compliments the way he makes whiskeys, each bottle of which offers a unique complexity of flavours.

The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. was founded by Bradley in 2018.  The distillery creates rare and ultra-rare Irish whiskeys, including The Emerald Isle, worth an incredible $2 million US, making it one of the most expensive whiskeys in the world.

Craft Irish Whiskey is made only in a pot still and with hand-selected barrels.  They craft whiskey as it was once made before the rise of blends and mass-production techniques. They are proud to be reviving the art of crafting whiskey.  The Craft Irish Whiskey Co.  considers themselves as being rooted in tradition but with an eye on the future, a modern expression of a historic craft.

It is now also a marriage between the world of wine and that of whiskey.

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Wine Pronunciation Guide

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Photo credit: abebooks.com

If you have ever found yourself gazing at a restaurant wine list unsure of how to properly pronounce the wine you want to select, rather than attempting to pronounce the name and facing the potential embarrassment of saying it wrong, many often point to the selection with an apologetic grin.

Since wines originate from all over the world, pronouncing many wines can be rather tricky. It may be helpful to think back to high school French, Italian, German or Spanish lessons. For those of us whose memory of those language lessons has faded or who didn’t take language courses, here is a pronunciation guide for many common wines and wine terms.  After all, you should never have to feel stressed or discouraged when you want to enjoy some wine.

The words appearing in italics are wine terms or descriptors.

Wine / TermPronunciation
Albariñoahl-bah-REE-nyo
Aligotéah-lee-go-TAY
Amaroneahm-mah-RO-nay
ArmagnacAHR-muh-nyak
Asti SpumanteAH-stee spoo-MAHN-tay
AusleseOWS-lay-zuh
Beaujolaisbo-zho-LAY
BeerenausleseBEH-ruhn-OWS-lay-zuh
Cabernet Francka-ber-NAY frahn
Cabernet Sauvignonka-ber-NAY so-vee-NYON
Carménèrekar-may-NAIR
Chablissha-BLEE
Chardonnayshar-dn-AY
Chemin BlancSHEN-in BLAHN
Châteauneuf-du-Papeshah-toh-NŒF-dy-pap
Chiantikee-AHN-tee
ChinonSHEE-nohn
Condrieucohn-DREE-uh
Crljenak Kaštelanskisuhrl-YEH-nak ka-STUH-lan-skee
EisweinICE-vine
Enologyee-NAW-luh-gee
Fumé BlancFYU-may BLAHN
Gewürztraminerguh-VURTS-tra-mee-ner
Grenachegruh-NAHSH
Grüner VeltlinerGROO-ner VE|LT-lee-ner
Kabinettka-bih-NET
Kirkeer
LiebfraumilchLEEB-frow-milk
Loirelwahr
Madeiramuh-DEER-uh
Merlotmehr-LO
Montepulcianomawn-tee-pool-CHYA-noh
MuscadetMYU-ska-day
MuskatMUH-skat
Nebbioloneh-BYO-lo
Nouveaunoo-VO
Petit Verdotpuh-TEET vair-DO
Petite Sirahpuh-TEET sih-RAH
Piemontepyay-MAWN-tay
Pinot GrigioPEE-no GREE-gee-o
Pinot GrisPEE-no GREE
Pinot MeunierPEE-no muh-NYAY
Pinot NoirPEE-no NWAHR
Pouilly-FuisséPOO-yee fwee-SAY
Pouilly-FuméPOO-yee fyu-MAY
PrädikatPRAY-dih-cot
RheingauRINE-gow
RieslingREES-ling
Riojaree-O-ha
Sangiovesesan-jo-VAY-zay
Sauternesso-TEHRN
Sauvignon BlancSO-vee-nyon-BLAHN
SémillonSAY-mee-yawn
Shirazsh-RAHZ
Sommeliersuh-muh-LYAY
SpätleseSHPAYT-lay-zuh
Syrahsih-RAH
Tempranillotem-pra-NEE-yo
Tokajitoke-EYE
Trebbianotreh-BYAH-no
Vinho VerdeVEE-nyo VEHR-day
Viogniervyo-NYAY
Vitis ViniferaVIH-tiss vin-IF-uh-rah
Vouvrayvoo-VRAY
ZinfandelZIN-fan-dell

It may be helpful to know that terms having a French origin do not vocalize the last letter.

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Minerality in Wine

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What does “minerality” in wine mean?  While ‘minerality’ is a useful term, there is no definite view on what it actually means.  Many wine labels provide no information about how the soil might affect the wine. Others specify in vague terms about how the soil contributes certain aromas or contains concentrated minerals.

Photo credit: diwinetaste.com

There is often an assumption that a small amount of material from the soil is drawn up through a grapevine’s roots and deposited in the fruit where it remains until the grape juice is fermented into wine. The popular notion is that the minerals can be tasted when we drink the wine.  However, scientific research has established that this is not the case.  It is not possible for us to taste minerals from the soil when we drink wine.

If this is true then why are people tasting minerality in wine?  In essence, the word mineral refers to three things.  The first is geologic minerals that make up the rocks in the ground.  Minerality can also refer to nutrient minerals like potassium, that vines absorb through their roots and use in vital processes. Finally, minerality can be a flavour descriptor where people think of the minerality in a physical sense rather than metaphorically as you would when describing a wine as having hints of lemon or fresh berries.

So, if minerality is not actually real is it still a useful concept?  The simple answer is yes.  Being able to associate imagery of things such as slate, gunflint, chalk or iodine helps us to associate and recognize flavour impressions even though we know we are not tasting the actual minerals.

Wines that are described as mineral are also generally described as ‘lean’, ‘pure’ and ‘acid’. They have a taste of licking wet stones and often a chalky texture. Some argue that it only applies to white wines, but it also occurs in reds.

There is an assumption that mineral wines are superior to mass produced New World fruity wines. They have a romantic image, one that implies they are handmade by artisans and express the mystery of the soil. Typical examples are found in the Old World such as Chablis and Sauvignon Blancs in France, Rieslings from the Mosel and Rheingau in Germany and Wachau and Kremstal in Austria.  This is not just a European characteristic but it does seem more prominent in places where the wines show less fruit and more acidity.

Many producers see it as an expression of the terroir, while some oenology experts (those who study wines) put it down to compounds produced in winemaking. Whatever the origin, there is no agreed definition of minerality, but for many it’s a very useful word.

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The Effects of Climate Change in Bordeaux

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Rising summer temperatures are impacting grape growers around the world, however today I will focus on France’s Bordeaux region.  Temperatures are expected to rise between 0.3°C and 1.7°C over the next 20 years. At this point global warming has benefited Bordeaux but that is about to change, especially if the grape crop is not somewhat modified. 

Photo credit: foodandwine.com

Growers are going to need to reconsider their mix of grapes as temperatures continue to rise.  The future of white varietals from the region may become non-existent while the existing proportion of reds, where 60% to 70% is currently Merlot, is already too great an amount.  Merlot is ideal in cooler regions where there is a shorter growing season. However, with temperatures increasing and the growing season getting longer, Merlot now ripens too quickly.  Many of these vines will need to be replaced with varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, which perform better in hotter climates with a longer growing season.

At least until now the increase in temperature and the resulting riper fruit have not had a detrimental effect on the quality of the wine. Instead, higher temperatures have made wine quality more consistently better. However, if warming continues the quality of the wine will begin to deteriorate.

It is well known that high temperatures can have harmful effects on grape composition, such as a decrease in anthocyanins (the pigmented molecules that give red wine its colour), as well as other molecules, that could cause unpredictable aromas.  The grape skins are also negatively impacted by higher temperatures.

Growers, scientists, and wine professionals all speculate that continued increases in temperature will negatively impact fruit and wine quality in the future. However, to date Bordeaux has successfully adapted to the quickly changing climate, but experts fear that the danger point is swiftly approaching.

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Whisky Tasting

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Whisky can be enjoyed in many ways, whether it be on the rocks, with a splash of water, soda water, a mixer or in a cocktail. However, there are those of us who, on occasion, feel it’s important to appreciate the spirit in its simplest state. This is particularly true when trying a whisky you have not had before. Here is a simple guide for conducting a whisky tasting.

Photo credit: http://www.lcbo.com

The process is very similar to the way a wine tasting is conducted.  After all, they are both a savoured, complex drink.  As with a wine tasting, it is fun and beneficial to do this with company.  It is both entertaining and educational to see how your interpretations compare to those of your friends.  The beauty lies in the senses of the beholder and there are no right or wrong interpretations.

There is a set of simple steps to follow that will help ensure you have the best possible whisky tasting experience.  It is recommended to use tasting glassware such as tulip-shaped International Standards Organization (ISO) vessels or Glencairn footed glasses.  Pour half an ounce or less into each glass, just enough for a few sips.

The first step is to examine the whisky in your glass. The colour can indicate what kind of cask the whisky was matured in and how long it aged. The older the whisky, the darker the colour. Also, the newer the cask, the darker the colour.  The more a cask has been used, the lighter the colour of the whisky. However, in many places including Canada and Scotland, it’s legal and common to add artificial colouring. Most whiskies are in a range of gold to amber.

Avoid swirling whisky as you might wine; the higher alcohol content in spirits can prickle your senses, burning your nose and palate.  Bring your nose to the glass slowly.  Many whiskies can be over 50% alcohol by volume (ABV) and thus too intense if your nose isn’t accustomed. Get in close to the glass, take your time, and start sniffing. Some experts recommend frequent, small sniffs, while others say long, soft sniffs are better. People often recognize one or more of floral, fruity, spicy, toasty, nutty, caramel, toffee, butterscotch or vanilla aromas.

Take a small sip and then another. As with the aromas, focus on flavours that immediately pop into your head. Spend a few minutes sipping slowly, moving the whisky around your mouth and identifying the flavours.  Then add a few drops of water to the whisky; this will lower the alcohol percentage, allowing more aromas and flavours to be identified.   Consider how long they linger on the finish.

Also consider the whisky’s texture; whether it is rough and hot, oily and silky or intense and sharp. Note the flavours you taste, and how long they linger on the finish.

All that is left now is to gather a couple of fellow whisky enthusiasts together, along with a favourite bottle, and let the exploration begin.

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Challenges for France’s Bordeaux Region

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This summer has proven to be especially bad for the grape harvest in France’s Bordeaux region.  The perfect combination of meteorological conditions has led to an alarming spread of mildew throughout the region. The combination of warm weather and rain has resulted in new plant growth being left unprotected as the wet weather has hindered the application of herbicides.

Photo credit: vivino.com

The mildew has been having the greatest impact on the red grape varietals, most notably Merlot.  So far this year the region has been impacted by two separate waves of mildew.   It remains to be seen whether the disease will progress onto the stalks of bunches and if it can be ultimately contained.

Some growers have lost their entire harvest.  As a result, a helpline has been established to help growers cope with the devastation.  Some grape growers are even considering their careers because of the mildew.  It has been quite traumatic for those trying to control it.

This is the second consecutive year where Bordeaux growers have been impacted by the weather.  The 2022 harvest was about 11% less than the ten-year average.

Grape growers are hoping that the region will soon see a return to more uninterruptedly dry, hot weather.  If the dry heat returns, Bordeaux may see the 2023 harvest being within the top three earliest harvests in the past decade.  However, given the devastation caused by the mildew, the harvest yield will be much lower than in previous years.  This will no doubt impact the price when the 2023 vintage of Bordeaux reaches store shelves in a few years’ time.

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B.C. Winemaker Séverine Pinte

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In June, Séverine Pinte, French born viticulturist and managing partner at both LaStella and Le Vieux Pin wineries, was awarded the Knight of the Order of Agricultural Merit.  The award was presented in Oliver, British Columbia by the Consul General of France, Nicolas Baudouin.

Photo credit: en.wikipedia.org

The Order of Agricultural Merit (Ordre du Mérite agricole) is presented by France for outstanding contributions to agriculture.  It is the highest distinction given in France to individuals, both French and foreign, who have made significant contributions in the fields of agriculture and the food and wine industry, whether in public duties or in the practice of agriculture. It also rewards people who have distinguished themselves in scientific research or in related publications.

Severine Pinte came to LaStella and Le Vieux Pin in 2010 with 14 harvests of international winemaking experience along with 8 years of vineyard management.  She is a graduate of the infamous ENSAM (Ecole National Superior Agronomic of Montpellier) where she acquired her Masters in viticulture and oenology, and her National Diploma of Oenology. After graduating from ENSAM she apprenticed at the Cave de Tecou in the AOC Gaillac before coming for the first time to British Columbia to work for Domaine de Chaberton as an assistant winemaker. In 1999 she returned to France and worked a year in Bordeaux under the direction of Andre Lurton in Pessac-Leognan. For nine years Severine was head winemaker and viticultural council for ‘Le Vignoble des 2 terres’ in the Terrasse du Larzac terroir.

In 2003 Severine worked at Frankland Estate winery in Australia and learned about the Australian way of making Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux originated varieties. Curiosity and the pursuit of new challenges lured Severine to British Columbia’s Okanagan.

Severine is an active member of British Columbia’s wine industry as a board member of the B.C. Wine Grape Council. She is a leading advocate of sustainable viticulture practices and was instrumental in launching the Sustainable Winegrowing B.C. certification program.

She has proven to be a true steward of the land, making some of the finest, most sought-after wines in B.C. at both Le Vieux Pin and LaStella wineries.  The wines produced by the two wineries may be purchased online through their respective websites, www.levieuxpin.ca and www.lastella.ca .

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Trek to The County

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During the first week of August my wife Valerie and I made our first post pandemic adventure to Prince Edward County.  I came prepared with a selection of wineries that I felt deserved a closer look, each having caught my attention for a variety of reasons.

The wineries are not presented in any particular order.

Hinterland Wine Company, 1258 Closson Rd, Hillier, Ontario

Hinterland Wine Company is a boutique winery specializing in wines made using the traditional method. Hinterland uses minimal intervention in their winemaking process, allowing the unique terroir to shine through.

I was particularly impressed with their 2021 L’Imparfait Seneca, which is classified as an orange wine, though it is very much red in colour.  It is a blend of 67% Pinot Noir, 26% Marquette and 7% Savagnin grapes.  If you like a sweet wine this one is definitely not for you; it has distinct earthy tones.

Closson Chase Winery, 629 Closson Rd, Hillier, Ontario

From Closson Chase we came away with some of their 2022 Estate Unoaked Chardonnay and 2021 Churchside Pinot Noir. 

The unoaked Chardonnay was sourced entirely from their South Clos vineyard. It was whole cluster pressed, then cool fermented in stainless steel at 14 C.

The Pinot Noir is sourced entirely from their Churchside vineyard. Destemmed with no crushing and cold soaked for 3-5 days. The juice was then fermented in oak tonneau and aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. The wine has five to seven years of cellaring potential.

Rosehall Run, 1243 Greer Rd, Wellington, Ontario

At Rosehall Run we found a 2021 Chardonnay Musque, a wine that not many wineries seem to produce. It is an unoaked variety that contains Chardonnay Musque grapes, rather than the more common Chardonnay.  The wine is 100% estate grown and bottled.

Another find was their 2019 Cabernet Merlot which is a blend of 49% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes that were sourced from select vineyards in the Niagara Peninsula.  This wine has a cellaring potential of a minimum of ten years. It has been consistently rated as a 92 out of 100 by several wine critics.

Grange of Prince Edward Vineyards and Estate Winery, 990 Closson Rd, Hillier, Ontario

At Grange I had to go with one of my favourite varietals, Cabernet Franc.  In this case it was their 2020 Cabernet Franc, which contains 100% estate grown grapes.  This is unusual for Prince Edward County given the slightly cooler climate and shorter growing season than either Niagara or the North Shore of Lake Erie. 

Broken Stone Winery, 524 Closson Rd., Hillier, ON

This find I must credit my brother for as he happened by it when he was touring the County earlier this summer.  He brought me back a bottle of each of their 2018 Intensity Meritage Blend Niagara Peninsula and 2021 Gamay Noir Barrel Reserve.  Both were delightful.

In addition to purchasing these two wines, I also picked up some of their 2021 Chardonnay Sans Chene.

Karlo Estate Winery, 561 Danforth Rd, Wellington, Ontario

I am pleased to report that Karlo is back in full swing with a complete lineup of both red and white wines, including their unique red blend Quintus.  Winemaker, Derek Barnett, has recreated this work of founder Richard Karlo using a blend of the classic noble grape varieties, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Old Third Vineyard, 251 Closson Rd, Hillier

The Old Third produces unfiltered Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay.  Unfortunately, the tasting room is inside a barn that can only be entered by climbing steps consisting of some uneven precariously strung planks with no handrail.  This proved too much of an obstacle for my post-stroke climbing ability so I had to pass on going inside.

Stanners Vineyard, 76 Station Rd., Hillier

Stanners locally grown Cabernet Franc has always been one of my favourite Prince Edward County wines but given the small quantity produced, it is often difficult to obtain and this year is no exception.  The 2020 Cabernet Franc VQA Prince Edward County is already sold out, as well as the 2020 Pinot Noir VQA Prince Edward County and the 2020 Pinot Noir VQA Prince Edward County.  However, I was still able to obtain the 2020 Cabernet Franc VQA Lincoln Lakeshore. The grapes for this Cabernet Franc came from a single vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula. The grapes were hand harvested then destemmed to whole berries with no crushing. The wine was aged in mostly older French oak barrels for 19 months and was not fined or filtered in order to preserve its fine fruit flavours. This wine is likely to age gracefully for quite a few years.

Devils Wishbone, County Road 7, Prince Edward County, Ontario

In the past I always enjoyed several of Devil Wishbone’s red varietals.  When I last visited the County in 2020 the winery was temporarily closed.  I anticipated a return visit there this summer but was saddened to learn that the owner, Jennifer Baldini, passed away in June of 2021 after suffering from a two-year illness.  The retail operations of the Devils Winery had been closed since the onset of her illness in 2019 but the vineyards were maintained in anticipation of her successful recovery.  Sadly, this didn’t prove to be the case and Devils Wishbone is now closed permanently.

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An Introduction to Irish Whiskey

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Since the 1990’s Irish Whiskey has been gaining ever increasing popularity among liquor drinkers and thus, there are more people than ever trying Irish whiskey.  As a result, there are now more selections on the market than ever before.

Irish Whiskey has a much more silky or smooth finish than other whiskeys, which is one major reason for its increasing popularity.  There is less alcohol burn when drinking than with other types of whiskey.

Each Irish whiskey has its own unique flavour and may be produced in several different ways (see The Styles of Irish Whiskey from March 12th).  How do you decide which whiskey is best for you?  Below are some suggestions based on my own experiences to help get you started.  In this list are whiskeys that are commonly available in liquor stores with a price point under $100. However, discovering your ultimate favourite will require you trying several different ones in order to find your preference of style and flavour. 

Jameson Irish Whiskey ($42 CDN)

Like many, this was my introduction to Irish Whiskey.

The aroma has floral notes, such as honeyed fruits and cut grass. The taste contains hints of fresh fruit such as pears and apples. The finish has hints of honey and spices.

Jameson may be enjoyed with a few drops of water or mixed with a bit of lemon juice.

Bushmills 10 Year Old ($57 CDN)

Bushmills is one of the most prominent distilleries in the Emerald Isle, specifically Northern Ireland. Bushmills 10 Year Old, uses 100% malted barley.

The nose contains hints of banana skins and butter mint with lots of sugar and vanilla. The palate has a lot of fruity notes.

Writers Tears Copper Pot ($55 CDN)

Writers Tears is a smooth and easy-to-drink whiskey. It is made using a combination of single malt and single pot still which produces a variety of fruity notes.  There are flavours of honey, vanilla, and fruit.

Green Spot ($85 CDN)

Produced by Mitchell & Son, alongside Yellow Spot and Red Spot, this pot still whiskey is my personal favourite. This Irish pot still whiskey is an easy-to-drink spirit, made using both unmalted barley and malted barley.

The nose has hints of apples with tastes of butterscotch, vanilla, and honey on the finish and is aged in a blend of first and second-fill Bourbon casks and sherry casks.

The Sexton Single Malt ($50 CDN)

This whiskey is crafted using 100% Irish malted barley and aged four years in sherry casks for a uniquely smooth finish. There are notes of dried fruit, nuts and honeycomb.

The Sexton is a bright golden spirit with aromas of toffee, marzipan, citrus, allspice and hints of dark chocolate. The taste has notes of dried fruit, a direct result of ageing in Oloroso Sherry casks.  The finish is smooth and supple with a hint of sweetness.

Final Thoughts

Although any of these whiskeys provide a good starting point there are many other great ones out there waiting for you to discover.

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