Spain seems to fly under the radar compared
to neighbouring France when it comes to wine notoriety. Spain is actually the
third largest wine producer in the world and has the most land dedicated to
vineyards, having over a million acres. Spanish wines range from great value to
the highly prestigious.
There are over 60 different regional districts
producing everything from light and zesty Albariño to inky black Monastrell.
Spain consists of 7 distinct climate regions
which are described as follows:
Northwest
“Green” Spain
Galicia is the only sub-region where lush
green valleys are plentiful and the common cuisine includes lots of fresh fish.
Albariño is the champion grape of the sub-region called Rias Baixas (REE-us
BYE-shus), which skirts the coast. The area specializes in zesty white wines
and a few aromatic red wines made with Mencía (men-THI-yah) grapes.
Mediterranean
Coast
The coast is a very diverse macro-region
that contains the sub-regions of Valencia, Catalonia and Murcia. Catalonia is
known for Cava (Spanish sparkling wine) and a highly acclaimed red wine
sub-zone, Priorat. Valencia and Murcia are warmer growing regions that produce
a bulk of value wines from deep red Monastrell to aromatic white Malvasia and
the widely planted Airén.
Ebro
River Valley
The sub regions of La Rioja and Navarra are found in the Ebro River Valley. Here, Tempranillo is king and long-standing bodegas such as Lopez de Heredia and Marques de Murrieta make age-worthy wines. Navarra is known mostly for rosado (rosé) wine made with the Garnacha (aka Grenache) grape. The region also produces oak-aged white wines of Viura (Macabeo). In Basque country, zesty white wines called Txakoli (pronounced “CHAK-o-li”) are common.
Duero
River Valley
The Duero River is the same river as the
Douro in Portugal. This region is notable for the minerally white wine,
Verdejo, of Rueda and the bold red wines of Toro, Ribera del Duero and Leon.
The wine grape of this region is Tempranillo and in Toro it’s called Tinta de
Toro, where it is considered to be a slight mutation of the Tempranillo grape.
Central
Plateau
The central plateau or Meseta Central is the
inner plateau of Spain which is home to the capital city, Madrid. Some of the
best value red wines of Spain can be found here made of Garnacha, Tempranillo
and even the rare, Petit Verdot.
Andalucía
Andalucía is a very hot and dry region famous for Sherry. The even hotter, Montilla-Moriles produces fortified dessert wines that are called PX. An aged PX, such as those from Bodegas Toro Abala, have similar nutty-date flavors like Tawny Port.
The
Islands (includes The Canary Islands)
The Islands of Spain offer a wide range of
wines from Listan Negro-based reds to dessert wines made with Moscatel. The
volcanic soils of the Canary Islands add a gritty taste of rustic minerality.
Currently, there are very few exporters of the limited wines of the Islands of
Spain although you can find a few from places like Tenerife.
My personal favourite Spanish wines include
the red wines of Rioja, which are typically developed from the Tempranillo
grape and primarily blended with the Garnacha grape.
Rioja wines are classified by the amount of
time spent aging in barrels and bottles before they are offered for sale. The classifications are legal terms that
indicate the quality level and aging requirements.
Crianza wines are aged in oak barrels for a
minimum of one year. They then must be
bottled a few months before being available for sale.
A Reserva
wine must be oaked for a minimum of a year followed by at least 2 years in the
bottle before being sold.
Lastly, Gran
Reserva wines are made only with the best grapes, which have been
hand-picked. These wines must spend a minimum
of 2 years in an oak barrel with an additional 3 years in the bottle before
being sold.
Generally speaking, Rioja wines have a much better price point than similar quality wines from other countries. Spain produces excellent wines at an affordable price and are well worth considering the next time you are shopping for wine.
When searching for new wines to try,
scoring/rating systems may provide some insight as to which ones may be worth
your while. However, having said this,
it is important to keep in mind that any rating is only the opinion of the
reviewer who completed it.
A score isn’t the be all and end all. In addition to looking at the number or
symbol, it is important to consider the complete tasting notes in order to get
a fuller understanding of what the particular wine is about. Without the tasting notes the rating is of
little value as the notes explain what the reviewer considered when completing
their assessment.
If you can find the vintners notes those can
provide important insight as well. The
vintner’s notes would most likely be located through the winery’s web
site. However, these are not always
published.
Ratings can be most useful to you if you can
find a critic whose likes and dislikes are similar to your own. However, keep in mind that all rating
systems are very subjective. There
really is no science involved in completing the scorings. The beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder.
Wines that are scored between 85 and 90
often provide the best value as price can be influenced by ratings and
popularity. Demand tends to be greater
for the highest rated wines though the quality is very similar to wines rated
in the high 80’s. The difference may
only be that the vines on the higher rated wine are older or of a particular
heritage. Neither of which may provide a
difference in taste for the average consumer.
The higher rated wines may contain more
tannin and acid, making them good candidates for cellaring. However, if you are just looking for a good
wine to drink over the next few months, a wine rated between 85 and 90 will be
well worth the investment
You will find that not all wines will be
scored. This is often because they are
not able to be reviewed by the critics before being released for sale to the
public. The fact that there is no rating
doesn’t mean that the wine is bad or inferior.
Here is a quick review of the common rating
systems that you may come across in your wine exploring adventures.
The
100 Point System
This system was made popular by Robert
Parker Jr. and has been commonly used since the early 1980’s. It is used by the majority of critics
today.
This approach automatically assigns each
wine reviewed with 50 points. Up to an
additional 5 points are awarded for colour and appearance; a maximum of 15
additional points for aroma; up to 20 more points for flavour and finish; and up
to 10 points for overall quality.
The
5-Star Scale
This scale was derived based on the common
hotel-rating system. 5 stars represent
outstanding quality; 4.5 stars indicate excellent quality, verging on
outstanding; 4 stars represents excellent quality; 3.5 stars indicate very good
quality; and finally 3 stars indicate good quality.
3-Glass
Scale
3 glasses indicates an excellent wine in its
category; 2 glasses is a very good to excellent wine in its category; and
finally 1 glass indicates good wine in its category.
Remember the most important wine critic you
should pay attention to is you. You know
better than anyone what wines you like.
Decanting oxygenates the wine, making it
taste brighter and aromatic. The amount
of decanting time varies depending on the wine.
Generally, 2 to 3 hours is the most you would want to decant a wine for
before serving. However, unlike whisky,
wine should not be left in the decanter indefinitely; 12 hours is the max. You can keep opened wine for about 3 to 5
days but that wine needs to be stored in the re-corked bottle (whether the
original cork or a wine stopper) in a cool dark place, such as your
fridge. Generally sweeter wines will
keep longer than dry wines.
Unfiltered wines should definitely be
decanted as there is a good chance there will be sediment in the bottle. Most wines are filtered but some are
not. It would be helpful if unfiltered
wines stated so somewhere on the label but I have found that you can’t count on
that. If there are vintner notes for the
wine, those will note if the wine is unfiltered.
Unfiltered wines should be passed through a
strainer when being poured into the decanter to catch the various bits of stem
and grape skin.
Young wines don’t require it because they
are already full of oxygen and aroma but older wines need to be decanted if you
want to experience the aroma. However,
as a rule of thumb, it is recommended that a wine that is 20 years old or more
should not be allowed to decant before serving.
In this special situation decanting would cause the wine to lose some of
its bouquet and flavour. That being
said, it is a good idea to filter these wines as they are being poured since
they will most likely contain sediment that will have accumulated during the
extended aging process.
Wine decanters themselves come in a variety
of shapes, sizes and price points. Most,
like wine glasses, will be widest in the base.
This allows for the most efficient oxygenation to occur. Unless you want your decanter to double as a
display piece, you don’t need to spend a lot of money on one. Your local kitchen or home décor store should
have a good selection to choose from.
Italy governs its wine industry in a similar manner as the French by using an appellation system of wine categorization. There are 21 regions that contain a rather large number of red and white varietals. Many of these grapes, such as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah, are common throughout many parts of the new and the old world.
Other varietals such as, Barbera, Corvina,
Molinara, Nebbiolo, Rondinella, Sangiovese, and Trebbiano, are more exclusive
to Italy. It is these grapes that give
Italian wines their distinguished flavour.
Italian
Whites
Italian white wines come in varieties that
run from sparkling and sweet to smooth and fruity to crisp and dry. The
following variety of whites will generally be found at your local wine merchant:
Asti is a sparkling wine
made from Moscato grapes in Piedmont. It
is a sweet wine and low in alcohol, with fruity and floral flavors.
Frascati is composed mainly
from Trebbiano grapes. It is generally dry or slightly off-dry, light-bodied,
and un-oaked.
Gavi is made from
Cortesa grapes which create this dry, medium-bodied wine from Piedmont. It is
generally un-oaked or slightly oaked.
Orvieto is generally a medium-bodied
wine made mainly from Grechetto grapes in the Umbria region. It is dry, and crisp,
with fruit undertones.
Pinot
Grigio
is a light-bodied, dry, crisp wine that contains no oak. It is made from Pinot Gris grapes.
Soave is produced in the
Veneto region. This wine mainly consists
of Garganega grapes, which give it a dry, crisp, un-oaked, and light- or
medium-bodied flavour.
Verdicchio is a dry,
medium-bodied, crisp white wine. It is made from Verdicchio grapes in the
Marche region.
Italian
Reds
As with the whites, the reds come in a
variety of styles.
Amarone is a full-bodied
wine produced from partially-dried Corvina grapes. It is a dry and firm wine but does have a
hint of sweetness. It is best paired
with rich, savoury foods or flavourful cheeses.
Barbaresco is similar to
Barolo (described below), as it is produced from the same Nebbiolo grapes. However, it is generally a little lighter in
body and a little less expensive. This wine is one that can usually be laid
down for some time. It is best from
between 8 and 15 years of age.
Barbera is mainly produced
in the Piedmont region. It is characteristically dry, light- or medium-bodied, and
has an intense berry flavor, lots of acidity, and but little tannin.
Barolo is one of my
personal favourites. It is dry and
full-bodied. Barolo is produced from
Nebbiolo grapes in Piedmont and contains complex aromas and flavours. It is a
wine that improves with age and is best enjoyed at 10 to 20 years of age,
depending on the producer.
Brunello
di Montalcino
is a full-bodied, intense, concentrated wine produced from Sangiovese grapes from
Tuscany. Dry and quite tannic, it is best enjoyed when it’s at least 15 years
old.
Chianti is a very dry,
medium-bodied, moderately tannic wine that is created mainly from Sangiovese
grapes from Tuscany. “Chianti Classico” is often the best. Wines labeled “riserva”, and more expensive
wines, are generally more concentrated and can be aged for a period of time.
Lambrusco is most commonly a
sweet, fizzy wine. It is made from
Lambrusco grapes usually from the Emilia-Romagna region. These wines are also available in both dry and
sparkling styles.
Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo is
generally a medium-bodied wine but there are some lighter variations. It is a very easy-drinking wine that is
produced in the Abruzzo region.
Salice
Salentino
is a dry, full-bodied wine produced from Negroamaro grapes in part of the
Puglia region. Generally it has intense aromas and flavors of ripe, plummy,
baked fruit, and rich, dense texture. It is best paired with robust foods so as
not to over-power the meal.
Valpolicella is a medium-bodied
wine created mainly from Corvina grapes in the Valpolicella area of the Veneto
region. It is dry, lean, and only
moderately tannic, with more or less intense cherry aromas and flavors. Some
versions, such as single-vineyard wines, are particularly good.
Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano is medium-bodied, dry, and lean, with red cherry
flavor, similar to Chianti but slightly fuller. It is produced from Sangiovese grapes in
Montepulciano, in the Tuscany region.
If you are not familiar with Italian wines
there are a number that I would recommend trying. If you like white wine, Pinot Grigio and
Verdicchio are worth a taste. From a red
perspective, I suggest both Chianti and Valpolicella. There is a good selection of both available
in a moderate price range. However, if
you are willing to spend a little more, Barbaresco and Barolo are well worth
the investment.
Wine glasses are specifically shaped and
sized for each particular type of wine.
White wine, having a much more subtle aroma and taste than a red wine,
has a smaller bowl and mouth. This is to
better capture the aroma for the nose, as well as minimize the exposure to
oxygen, so as not to release the more subtle flavour too quickly.
In addition to the standard white wine
glass, there are also Chardonnay glasses.
These glasses are generally the same height as a standard white wine
glass but the bowl and mouth are wider.
This is to allow the wine to be better oxygenated, resulting in a bolder
bouquet and flavour for the pleasure of the drinker.
Sparkling wine glasses, or Champagne Flutes
as they are often referred to, are much narrower and taller than white wine
glasses. This allows for further
enhancement of the bouquet of the wine.
Also, by minimizing the surface area at the top of the glass, the
bubbles will be more concentrated and last longer.
Red wine glasses vary in shape and size for
the various varietals of grapes. A Pinot
Noir glass is tulip shaped containing a rather wide bowl before narrowing and
then flaring wider at the mouth. The
theory is that this shape of glass provides for the optimum balance of
sweetness, acidity and alcohol.
Zinfandel and Bordeaux glasses are very
similar in shape and size with the Bordeaux glass being slightly taller. These glasses are designed this way in order
to allow the wines to breathe and enhance the flavour of the wine. Given the strong similarity between the two
glasses, personally, I doubt the average wine drinker, including myself, would ever notice a difference if a Bordeaux
was served in a Zin glass or vice versa.
The Cabernet glass is the tallest of all the
wine glasses. It has a slightly larger
bowl and mouth than the other glasses mentioned. The Cabernets, including Cabernet , Cabernet
Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as, Syrah or Shiraz, would benefit from being
served in this style of glass. The shape
and size of this glass helps moderate the higher acid content of these wines,
as well as allowing for the full bodied aromas to be released.
The most unique red glass is the Burgundy
glass, which is shaped like a fish bowl with a wide bowl, basically no neck and
a wide mouth. The idea behind this glass
is to enhance the acidity and intensity of Burgundy style wines.
For anyone opting to have a single red and
white wine glass, I would recommend the standard white wine glass and the
Cabernet glass.
There are two common styles of wine glasses,
stem and stemless. Personally I prefer a
glass with a stem so the heat from my hand is not transferred to the wine
inside the glass.
There is a much argued debate over glass
versus crystal. There are those who say
that a crystal glass provides much better flavour. Personally, I would like to see that proven
in a blind taste test. I can see where
psychologically if you know you are drinking from a $100 crystal glass versus a
much less expensive glass vessel the psychological aspect may provide a more
rewarding experience. However, I am very
sceptical and other than feeling the difference in the weight of the 2 glasses
in your hand, I am not convinced the type of glass impacts the wine’s flavour
as some suggest is the case. However,
after saying all this I do have an assortment of crystal wine stemware in the
cupboard.
People sometimes shy away from French wine
because they are unable to determine what type of wine they are selecting. No where will you see the varietal of grape
identified. This is because France
identifies its wines using the Appellation System, a complex system of laws that
define each wine region and its boundaries and imposes strict rules around
winemaking practices.
Most appellations take the form of place
names, such as Champagne or Bordeaux. What this means is that the grapes grown
in each region are consistent with all of the wine producers within that
region. This becomes the key to
understanding what grapes are contained within a particular French wine.
Here is a brief explanation of what grapes
are grown in each of the appellations.
Hopefully this will help you crack the code to identify the varietals
found in French wines.
Alsace
Alsace is the only French wine region to
grow significant quantities of Riesling and Gewurztraminer grapes, as well as
Pinot Gris.
Alsace Grand Cru wines are general only
allowed to be made from these three varieties but may also contain some Muscat.
Chasselas, Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois are
also grown although these three varietals tend to be used only in blends.
There are some red wines produced in the
region as well, mainly from Pinot Noir. Alsace
Pinot Noirs are typically lighter-bodied and more rustic than the majority of
Pinot Noir wines produced in France.
Bordeaux
Bordeaux is produced in the southwest of
France. The majority of Bordeaux wines
are the dry, medium- and full-bodied red Bordeaux Blends. There are some high-quality
white wines as well, both dry styles and the sweet, botrytized varieties. Botrytis is a type of fungus that generates
sugar and sweetness in the grapes.
Most Bordeaux reds are made from a blend of
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot is
the most common red wine grape in Bordeaux, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and
then Cabernet Franc. Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenère are also permitted, but
only make up around two percent of the red grape total.
Bordeaux’s white wines are generally blends
of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Sauvignon Gris the only other
white variety that is permitted.
Burgundy
The two key grape varieties of Burgundy are
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Gamay and Aligote are also grown throughout the
region, producing more rustic styles of wine. Gamay is used in the red and rosé
wines.
Beaujolais
Beaujolais is famous for its vibrant, fruity
red wines made from Gamay.
Pinot Noir is used in small quantities in
red and rosé wines, but is being phased out. Although best known for its red
wines, the region also produces white Beaujolais Blanc, from Chardonnay and Aligote.
Champagne
Champagne is the name of the world’s most
famous sparkling wine. While it has been used to refer to sparkling wines from
all over the world, Champagne is a legally controlled and restricted name.
Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay are
the primary grape varieties used to make Champagne.
The key Champagne styles differ in their
color, sweetness, base grape varieties, and whether they are the product of a
single vintage or several (referred to as Non-Vintage). The whites may be
either Blanc de Noirs (made from black-skinned grapes), Blanc de Blancs (made
from green-skinned grapes) or just plain Blanc (made from any combination of
the permitted varieties). Pink Champagne Rosé is made either by adding red wine
to a white blend or sometimes by fermenting the juice in contact with the
skins. These types all come with varying degrees of sweetness.
Cognac
Cognac is the world’s most famous brandy. It is graded in three official tiers, which
reflect how long the spirit spent in barrel. VS (Very Special) is the lowest
tier and means the brandy has been stored for a minimum of two years in casks.
VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) is the middle tier and denotes Cognac that has
been aged for at least four years. XO is the finest grade and is reserved
exclusively for those cuvees aged for six years or more.
Corsica
Corsica is an island in the Mediterranean
Sea, located between the southeast coast of Provence and the west coast of
Tuscany. Although it is closer to Italy, Corsica is governed by France. The
island’s Italian origins are evident in its wines, which are made predominantly
from the Italian classics Vermentino and Sangiovese.
Corsica’s wines have both a French and
Italian influence. Pinot Noir, Grenache, Tempranillo and Barbarossa are all grown
there alongside one another.
Grenache is a primary ingredient in many
Corsican red wines and Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsaut and Carignan all play a
variety of supporting roles.
The only white varietal is Vermentino/Rolle.
Coteaux
du Lyonnais
These wines are of a lighter style similar to
those produced in Beaujolais. The red wines are produced from Gamay grapes.
A small amount of white wine is made from
Chardonnay and Aligoté. Occasionally some Pinot Blanc is added to the blend.
These are traditionally dry, floral styles, some of which are matured in oak
barrels for up to a year to produce a slightly more structured, weighty
version.
Jura
Jura is a small wine region in eastern
France.
The five main grape varieties used in the
region are Poulsard, a red grape which accounts for about one-fifth of the
region’s plantings; Trousseau, the other local red variety, covers only the
warmest 5% of Jura’s vineyards; White Savagnin, which is responsible for the
idiosyncratic vins jaunes (‘yellow wines’);
Pinot Noir; and Chardonnay.
Dry white wines are also made in Jura,
increasingly from Chardonnay as are dry red wines produced from Pinot Noir.
Loire
The Loire Valley is a key wine region in
western France.
White wines are the Loire Valley’s best
wines, and account for the vast majority of production. The key white-wine
grape varieties used to make Loire Valley whites are Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin
Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne and, more popular than traditional, Chardonnay.
Loire reds are of increasingly high quality.
The number one red-wine variety is
Cabernet Franc. Lighter-bodied red wines are made from Pinot Noir, Malbec
(known here as Côt) and Gamay.
Moselle
Moselle is an appellation covering white,
red and rosé wines. While Auxerrois
Blanc, Muller-Thurgau and Pinot Gris are the principal varieties set out in the
appellation law, Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Blanc are permitted in the
white wines in limited amounts.
The reds must be made entirely of Pinot
Noir, but Moselle rosés may have a proportion of Gamay.
Provence
Provence is a wine region in the far
southeastern corner of France, best known for its rosé wines.
Traditional varieties such as Carignan,
Barbaroux (Sardinia’s Barbarossa) and Calitor are being replaced by more
commercially viable grapes like Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The more successful local varieties
Mourvèdre, Tibouren and Vermentino are incorporated in Provence’s red, rosé and
white wines respectively.
Rhône
The Rhône Valley is a key wine-producing
region in the southeast of France. The
smaller, more quality-driven northern section focuses on Syrah for red wines
and Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne for whites. The larger south region contains a much
longer list of varieties; the most notable of these are the red Grenache Syrah and
Mourvedre, which are combined to produce the ‘GSM’ blend.
Savoie
Savoie is a wine region in eastern France. Around three-quarters of the region’s wines
are white. Jacquère is the most widely
planted white grape variety. Altesse,
known traditionally here as Roussette, is used to produce some of Savoie’s
finer wines.
As in many other areas of France, Chardonnay
is increasingly being planted in Savoie. It is used in still and sparkling
wines.
Although Savoie is dominated by white wines,
it does have a standout red variety, Mondeuse. Gamay and Pinot Noir are also grown.
These are lighter in style than their respective counterparts in Beaujolais and
Burgundy.
Personally, I am most attracted to the reds
of the Rhône. I find them to be very
versatile, being both full bodied and flavourful while at the same time being
smooth. They are suitable for pairing
with a favourite meal or simply enjoyed on their own.
No matter what your likes or dislikes, don’t
allow yourself to be intimidated by foreign wine labels. Be adventurous and go exploring.
Whether you conduct a self-guided wine region tour or partake in a guided tour offered by a local tour guide company depends on your personal preference. A tour company they will offer travel to a predetermined list of wineries by one of a various means of transportation, limo, bus or even bicycle.
If you elect the self-guided option, be sure
to get a good map before striking out on your adventure.
The advantage of the second option is that, if you are not familiar with the area and/or the wineries themselves, this method can be easy and non-stressful. However, if you are familiar or prefer a more individualized experience with less likelihood of a crowd, then the first option is probably better for you.
A number of the larger wineries offer tours
of their facility where a staff member will guide you through the winery and
explain the process of making the various types of wine they produce. It is beneficial to go on a tour as it will
provide information that will help with your understanding of different
varietals and wine making processes.
This information may be beneficial when making wine selections.
I suggest taking a tour at one of the larger
facilities as they will most likely make both reds and whites, as well as use
more than one fermentation process.
At the conclusion of the tour I also suggest partaking in a wine tasting if offered. During the tasting the staff will review each wine and you will be able to relate back to the process used to create that wine. This will help give a better understanding of how the various flavours are created. Ultimately this may serve useful when you are staring at the shelves at your local wine merchant trying to decide which wine to purchase.
Not all wineries have their products
distributed for sale at your local wine merchant. This may be because the winery does not
produce the minimum prescribed quantity to enable distribution. In other cases it may be a conscious decision
by the vintner where they prefer to sell a certain wine or vintage at their own
facility. Thus without actually visiting
the winery you may be missing out on some of the wine world’s best kept
secrets.
There are other reasons for visiting a
winery. No one knows their wines better
than those who make them. Well informed
staff can explain the process used to make each of their wines, as well as the
varietal composition, cellaring capability, and food pairing suggestions.
You will usually have the opportunity to
taste the various wines on offer. I
can’t think of a better way to determine whether a particular wine is to your
personal liking.
I have had some very enjoyable experiences,
as well as some not so pleasant ones.
The common denominator of a rewarding winery experience is having good
interaction with knowledgeable and pleasant staff that are willing to spend the
time to answer questions and listen to what you are looking for. As a result, on several occasions I have
gone to a specific winery in search of one wine but after some discussion I
have happily left with a different one.
When I am planning a visit to either Niagara
or Prince Edward County, I do my research and plan ahead as to which wineries I
want to visit and in many cases, which wines I am interested in purchasing. Otherwise, with about 100 wineries on offer
in Niagara and another 40 in the County, I would be wandering aimlessly in my
search.
A winery may make it onto my list for
several different reasons. I may have
heard about a specific wine that intrigues me; I may be simply looking to
restock my cellar with a certain wine that I have previously enjoyed; I may
research wine reviews and make some decisions based on what the experts have to
say; or as in the case of a recent trip, I may be in search of a wine that my
wife and I enjoyed in an area restaurant.
In situations where I have visited based on
reviewer opinions, sometime I have gone in search of a specific wine but in
others I may have been intrigued by the winery itself. In the case of the latter, the staff’s
knowledge and expertise is most important to ensure a successful experience.
If nothing else, it is a good idea to search
out which wineries have a restaurant so you can plan to be somewhere food is
served when hunger pangs hit. Many of
these restaurants offer a unique experience in themselves as they will often
pair their wines with the various menu items.
I often travel to the wine regions during
the off-season, avoiding the period from Victoria Day to Labour Day. This way there are less likely to be crowds
and winery staff will have more time to answer questions and make suggestions,
making the experience more rewarding and enjoyable.
When touring the various wineries you will see that the wineries themselves are unique from one another in appearance, ranging from very modest and plain, to rustic, to extremely elaborate. Keep in mind that appearances can be deceiving. I have purchased great wines from barns and cinderblock shacks located along obscure lanes and paths. Remember it is the vintner behind the scene who puts the quality in the bottle.
While visiting my great aunt in St. Catharines many years ago, my cousin’s husband, who was a grape grower, was mourning the loss of the Canadian wine industry. The cause of death was the Federal Government announcing the removal of tariff protection on wine imports. It meant the end of the world for grape growers who were now being “forced” to destroy the vast majority of their vines, which for the most part consisted of lesser-quality grapes such as, Labrusca, Seyval Blanc, or Vidal.
At the time there were a just few local
wineries and the majority of the grapes were harvested for the big 3 wine
makers of the day – Bright’s, London and Andrès (remember Baby Duck?; it’s
still being produced).
In order to compete in the world market, the
Labrusca vines needed to be replaced with good quality European vines. To help ensure the success of this process,
the Canadian and Ontario governments brought in wine experts from around the
world to determine which vines were best suited for Ontario’s climate. It was concluded that Ontario was a close
match for the Burgundy region of France and as a result, Ontario began
cultivating Pinot Noir, Baco Noir, and Riesling grapes.
As confidence and understanding grew, so did
the number of grape varietals being grown.
In addition to the original 3, today you will find Chardonnay,
Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot in abundant
supply with lesser percentages of other varieties, such as Petit Verdot and
Syrah.
Along with the variety of grapes the number
of wineries has also expanded. The new
“estate wineries”, which follow the European model, are appearing at an
increasing rate. There is a new
enthusiasm for grape and wine production whereby growers are now developing
their own wine and creating unique variations, rather than selling it to the
large corporations as they did in the past.
The original group of small wineries including Cave Springs, Henry of Pelham, Peninsula Ridge and Iniskillin have been joined by many more, whose numbers totaled 99 at last count. These wineries now produce many great wines with a number of them having reached international acclaim.
It is true, the elimination of tariffs on
imported wine was the end of the Canadian wine industry as we knew it along
with the demise of mass produced cheap low quality wine. However, it has been replaced with a
wonderful selection of international class wines. The industry has never looked
back and I for one am glad for it.
Before jumping into this week’s post, I just want to explain why I haven’t published anything in the past few weeks. On September 1st I sufferred a hemorrhagic stroke. My recovery is expected to take some time though I plan to continue to write as much as possible during this challenging time. Now on to the business at hand.
During a trip to Austria this past summer I was excited by the prospect of visiting the acclaimed wine capital, Winzer Krems. Winzer Krems prides itself in its claim that the grapes grown by the 960 grape growers on 990 hectares (2,450 acres) of land are hand-picked.
The grape varietals in Winzer Krems include,
Grüner
Veltliner, which is the most important indigenous grape variety in Austria.
Riesling,
the most important white wine variety in the Wachau and Kremstal regions after Grüner
Veltliner.
Blauer
Zweigelt, the most widespread red wine variety in Austria.
The grapes are transported from the
vineyards to the Winzer Krems winery where they are separated according to the
varietal, quality, and the particular locations of origin, to enable a wide
range of individual wine qualities and specialities to be bottled.
The grapes are gently pressed to extract the
juice in the whole cluster pressing. This process is to ensure the quality
produced in the vineyard is maintained in the wine. The juice is then fed into
stainless steel tanks and fermented in a temperature-controlled process. Only
perfect bottles with the necessary quality features are marketed.
The kicker is that the wine production
process is operated as a co-op. All of
the producers ship their grapes to a single wine making facility where each
varietal of grape is combined with other grapes of the same varietal using a
single type of process. Because of this,
any subtleties in flavour that would result from the soil characteristics and
the fermentation process are lost. All
wine of the same varietal will taste the same.
There is no opportunity for a vintner’s expertise or unique growing
conditions to shine.
The advantages are that you have a
consistent product with no surprises or variation. On the other hand, I for one like to taste
the uniqueness of wines produced in different soils, using different
fermentation processes. I like to see
the vintner’s skills to be able to stand out.
Since the wines are produced in the same
manner by a single producer, the consumer of Austrian wines has very limited
choice of product.
I was told that these Austrian wines are good quality “table wine”, which means that all of the wines produced are intended for immediate consumption. None of the wines are produced with the intention of laying them down, unlike neighbouring Germany where wines are developed by independent wine producers, each with its own characteristics. Personally speaking, I have purchased and laid down some wonderful German Rieslings that I have been rewarded with some well-aged flavourful wines.
The advantage of the co-op manufacturing
approach is that the individual grape growers don’t have to concern themselves
with marketing, as the co-op takes on that responsibility. However, from the way I see it, there are no
opportunities or incentive for producers to develop their own personality,
quality and uniqueness that can then be rewarded on an individual financial
level. It is a very socialistic approach
and I feel that individual entrepreneurial uniqueness is lost, as well as the
opportunity to create superior quality wine.
A Layman's Wine Musings 