Author: A Layman's Wine Musings

The Médoc Area of Saint-Émilion

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The first area I explored on my recent trip to France’s Bordeaux region was Médoc, which is situated on the Right Bank. The name Médoc is synonymous with exceptional wines. Considered as one of the world’s leading red wine producers, Médoc has been a winemaking region since the 18th century, with more than 16,000 hectares of vineyards across eight sub-appellations.

In Médoc, which is part of the Saint-Émilion appellation that has over 800 Chateaux, I visited the family-owned winery, Château Fleur Cardinale. The terroir consists of a mix of clay and limestone. Typical of Right Bank wineries, their wines consist of a blend of around 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The blended portions vary slightly from year to year depending on the yield of each grape varietal.

La Maison Cardinale was established in 2001, when Dominique and Florence Decoster acquired Château Fleur Cardinale. In 2017, their son Ludovic and his wife Caroline took the reins of the family estate. In 2024, they created La Maison Cardinale, an entity that brings together Château Fleur Cardinale, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, and Château Croix Cardinale, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru.

They have two estates, Château Fleur Cardinale and Château Croix Cardinale. Château Fleur Cardinale covers 27.6 hectares on the northern slope, producing a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé. The northern slope is also ideal to produce Fleur Cardinale white, in the Bordeaux appellation. Château Croix Cardinale covers 4 hectares on the southern slope, producing a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru.

While there I had the opportunity to sample 2023 “Cardinal Flower Intuition Saint-Emilion Grand Cru” and the 2019 “Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru”. The Intuition had an intense aromatic profile of ripe black fruits. There were subtle tannins and a supple, fresh texture. The Grand Cru Classé had a sensation of fresh and intense fruit, both on the nose and in the mouth. In my opinion it was much smoother and better balanced than the Cardinal Flower Intuition.

The grapes for both wines are picked by hand. There are about 15,000 bottles of Cardinal Flower Intuition produced each year and 105,000 bottles of the Grand Cru Classé. About 80% of the wine is sold to wine agents for export with the balance being sold from the winery. Unfortunately, Château Fleur Cardinale wines do not appear to be available in Ontario liquor stores.

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My Adventure to Bordeaux

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I recently returned from a trip to the Bordeaux region of France where I took advantage of the opportunity to experience some of the finest wines in the world.

The effects of climate change are impacting the grape harvests there the same as they are in many other parts of the world. The region is facing increasing temperatures and drought conditions each year. Not helping matters is the governing regulation that prohibits vineyards to irrigate vines that are more than 3 years old.

To help try and offset the effects of climate change, I saw horses being used in place of tractors to till the weeds that were growing between the rows of grape vines, lessening the need for herbicides and reducing the generation of carbon monoxide.

The Bordeaux region is separated into 2 distinct areas: the Left Bank and the Right Bank. To help identify which is which, the city of Bordeaux is situated on the Left Bank.

Bordeaux’s wine areas are often categorized into five main zones, primarily based on their location in relation to the Gironde, Garonne, and Dordogne rivers. These zones are: The Médoc, Graves and Sauternais, The Libournais, Blaye and Bourg and Entre-Deux-Mers.  During our trip I visited wineries on both the Left Bank and Right Bank.

The Left Bank, often referred to as the Médoc and Graves, produces red wines, while the Right Bank, including Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, also focuses on red wines. Entre-Deux-Mers produces both red and white wines, and the Graves and Sauternais are known for their sweet white wines.

There are five Bordeaux wine classifications. These classifications serve as an expression of quality and prestige worldwide. The principle of the crus classés (“classified growths”) illustrates the synthesis of a terroir’s typical characteristics and dedicated human intervention over many generations to ensure quality. However, a wine or appellation can still be outstanding even if it is not a part of these classifications. The classifications are listed in order of seniority:

  • The 1855 classification
  • The Graves classification
  • The Saint-Émilion classification
  • The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc classification
  • The Crus Artisans classification

For a winery in Bordeaux to be referred to as a Château, the property must include a large house, vineyards and a place to make wine.

The age of the vines impacts the quality of the Bordeaux wine. The older the vine, the more expensive the wine. The roots on old vines extend much deeper and extend further int the soil. This adds minerality to the fruit, which in turn adds complexity to the flavour of the wine.

One thing I found interesting on this trip was how the various winery staff pronounced Cabernet Franc. I was always under the impression that Cabernet Franc was pronounced as the French do, with the ‘c’ in Franc being silent – ka·br·nay frong, but I now found out that it is acceptable to pronounce it in English as ka·br·nay frank.

Over the next few weeks I will describe my adventures through the region, as well as the wineries I had the opportunity to experience.

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Pairing Wine with Sandwiches

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Looking for a way to enhance a meal of sandwiches? For lighter tasting fillings, light-bodied white wine such as Pinot Gris, Pinot Grigio, or Sauvignon Blanc would pair well. For more substantial sandwiches, a Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, or even a Cabernet Franc can go well. Sandwiches that have a spicy kick will pair well with a Moscato or Riesling.

Photo credit: svinando.co.uk

Sandwiches served on a nutty bread loaf are complimented by a Cabernet Sauvignon while more savory breads are enhanced by a Chianti.

Here are some suggestions for some specific types of sandwiches:

  • BLT – Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Rosé
  • Cheesesteak – Carménère
  • Cubano – Chardonnay
  • Roast beef – Malbec, Syrah
  • Italian beef – Merlot
  • Grilled cheese – Chardonnay or semi-dry Riesling
  • Grilled chicken – Sauvignon Blanc
  • Ham and cheese – Chardonnay
  • Italian meat sandwich – Prosecco
  • Peanut butter & jam – Off-dry Riesling
  • Pulled pork – Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc
  • Reuben – Pinot Noir, Rosé
  • Cured salami – Shiraz/Syrah
  • Tuna melt – Verdicchio
  • Classic turkey – Chardonnay
  • Turkey burgers – Pinot Noir
  • Grilled vegetables – Sauvignon Blanc

Whatever your choice of sandwich, the accompaniment of a glass of wine can enhance your dining experience.

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Pairing Wine with Thai Food

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Pairing wine, or any alcoholic beverage for that matter, with Thai food is without history or precedent. Whereas many cultures traditionally include alcoholic beverages as part of their cultural experience, for example the French with wine, the Japanese with sake, and the Germans with beer, Thais have no history of pairing alcohol with food at all.

Photo credit: guide.michelin.com

Therefore, when pairing wine with Thai food, there are no rules or traditions to be followed. However, there are general guidelines that can be followed when matching wine with any flavour, boldness, sweetness, spiciness, acidity, or heat combinations of food. I have written about these in one form or fashion numerous times over the years.

In case you don’t want to engage in your own research to find the perfect pairing for your next Thai dinner, here are some wine pairing suggestions from a variety of experts.

As a general comment, lighter-bodied wines, particularly whites and rosés, are good choices. Off-dry Riesling, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner and Chenin Blanc go well, along with some lighter red wines such as Pinot Noir or Gamay.

Some Thai dishes, particularly curries, can be quite spicy. A wine with a touch of sweetness can help balance the heat.  A Sauvignon Blanc, an off-dry Riesling or a Gewürztraminer would be a good choice. Also, a Riesling can complement the aromatic herbs and spices often used in Thai cooking.

If your preference is for red wine, the light body, low tannins and high acidity of Pinot Noir make it a good choice for Thai food. Gamay, being similar to Pinot Noir, also has a light body and is high in acidity making it a good choice as well.

A light-bodied French Beaujolais can pair well with heartier meat dishes or those with umami-rich sauces.

Wines to avoid include heavy, full-bodied red wines with high tannins, as they can intensify the spiciness of Thai dishes. Therefore, it is best to stay away from wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.

Here are some more detailed suggestions:

  • Green Curry: Malbec
  • Larb: Grenache
  • Mango Sticky Rice: Sauternes
  • Massaman Curry: Gewürztraminer
  • Moo-ping: Grenache or Syrah
  • Pad Karprao: Red Burgundy, Cabernet Franc
  • Pad See Ew: Primitivo/Zinfandel
  • Pad Thai: Chenin Blanc
  • Som Tum: Moscato d’Asti
  • Tom Yum: Sauvignon Blanc

One thing is for certain, whichever wine you select to have with your Thai meal will not be wrong.

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Irish Whiskey or Scotch Whisky

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Don’t all types of whiskey pretty much taste the same, especially those ones that are made from the same type of grain? The simple answer is no. Just ask the Irish or the Scots. They will each tell you that theirs is far superior over all others. Irish whiskey and Scotch whisky have common roots but have developed differently over time.

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So, what are the differences between Irish whiskey and Scotch whisky? To begin, Irish whiskey is spelled with an “e” (whiskey), while Scotch whisky is spelled without an “e” (whisky). Whiskey labelled as Irish whiskey must be produced in Ireland and spend a minimum of three years maturing there while whisky labelled as Scotch whisky must be produced in Scotland and spend a minimum of three years maturing there.

Both are created using fermented grain and aged in wooden barrels. However, their distillation process, ingredients and flavour profiles differ. Irish whiskey is often triple-distilled whereas most Scotch whiskies are double-distilled. Thus, Irish whiskey is usually known for a smoother, lighter taste, often having fruitier flavours, while Scotch whisky is typically known for a fuller, heavier, more complex flavour profile with notes of oak, vanilla, fruit, spice and sometimes smokiness. However, as with most things there are exceptions. Occasionally Irish whiskey is only double-distilled and Scotch whisky is triple-distilled.

Irish whiskey may be made from a combination of cereal grains including barley, corn, wheat and rye. Scotch whisky is produced from 100% malted barley. The grain is distilled differently as well. Irish whiskey can mature in wood species other than oak, while Scotch whisky must be matured in oak barrels.

There are four types of Irish whiskey: Single Malt, Single Pot Still, Single Grain and Blended Irish Whiskey. For details on single malt and single pot, see my March 12, 2022 post “The Styles of Irish Whiskey”.

On the other hand, there are five types of Scotch whisky: Single Malt, Single Grain, Blended Malt, Blended Grain and Blended Scotch Whisky. Further information on the types of Scotch can be found in my post “Scotch Whisky Single Malt Vs Blend” dated December 18, 2021.

As you can see, both countries produce single malt, single grain and blends. In Scotland, blended malt and blended grain are separate categories whereas blended Irish Whiskey must be made from two or more different whiskey types.

The biggest difference between Irish whiskey and Scotch whisky is the single pot still classification. This is a style of whiskey that is unique to Ireland and is made from both malted and unmalted barley.

Scotch whisky sales exceed those of Irish whiskey. In 2023, Scotch exports were the equivalent of $10.3 billion CDN while Irish whiskey exports were just more than $1.6 billion CDN. There are currently about 150 whisky distilleries operating in Scotland and around 50 in Ireland.

However, being bigger doesn’t make it better. Scotch can boast more varieties and market exposure but it is up to you decide which one is better. It comes down to personal taste.

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Wine Service

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What is ‘wine service’? Experts define it as the way a bottle of wine is served to a gathering of guests. Wine service must include the handling of the bottle itself. Based on this definition, if you were to order a glass of wine in a restaurant, this would not be included under the definition of wine service. Instead, it is considered in the definition of ‘bar service’, perhaps a discussion for another day.

Photo credit: vivatysons.com

The wine service process begins with the selection of the wine, either from a list or by the recommendation of the restaurant wine steward or sommelier, or in the case of a private gathering, your host.

The first step is for the server or host to open the bottle of wine. They begin by removing the foil or capsule covering the cork using a knife or foil cutter. Then they make a clean cut just below the lower lip of the bottle to expose the cork fully.

When serving flat wine (wine with no bubbles), they insert the corkscrew by positioning the tip of the corkscrew at the center of the cork. Gentle pressure is applied and the corkscrew is twisted clockwise until the screw is fully embedded in the cork.

With the corkscrew securely in place, it is rotated approximately six half turns to ensure a firm grip on the cork. Then utilizing the lever arm of the corkscrew, the cork is slowly and steadily lifted upwards. Even pressure should be applied to prevent the cork from breaking or crumbling.

After removing the cork, the neck of the bottle should be inspected for any cork leftovers. A clean napkin or cloth should be used to gently wipe away any residue to ensure a pristine pour.

With the wine glass sitting on the table, the server’s dominant hand should grasp the bottom half of the wine bottle. The other hand holds a cloth napkin below the lip of the bottle to avoid dripping.  The bottle should be placed over the wine glass and slowly and steadily turned down over the glass and the wine poured in the center or all along the side. The label should be turned forward, making it visible to the person being served in order to identify the wine that is being poured.

In the typical wine glass, the spread between the rim and the stem is generally the widest at the line for serving 150 millilitres (5 ounces). When the pour is complete, the bottle should be tilted up with a twist and the lip wiped with the napkin.

If serving a sparkling wine, it should be served chilled. An ice bucket is useful in this situation. The bottle needs to be opened gently and slowly, pressing the cork with the thumb while it is gradually being removed due to the pressure inside the bottle. The bottle should be tilted at a 45-degree angle to ensure that wine does not escape from the bottle. Pour the wine slowly and uniformly while holding the glass slightly tilted. This will help prevent the wine from spilling over the rim of the glass.

Once the last of the guests’ glasses are filled the wine service is complete.

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BC Wineries 2024 “Crafted in BC” Wines

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British Columbia wineries are now beginning to bottle and debut wines that are classified in the new wine category, “Crafted in BC”. This is a limited time offering that was authorized by the Vintage 2024 Relief and Support Program. This program was introduced by the British Columbia government in the summer of 2024 to help offset the devastating losses that resulted from last year’s extreme climate effects. For more information, see my November 9, 2024 post 2024: A Year to Remember in British Columbia.

This support program is enabling B.C.’s winemakers to use out-of-province grapes thus allowing wineries to keep their doors open and staff employed. This is also providing winemakers with the unique opportunity to think beyond the realms of their own vineyards by using different varietals of grapes from various climates and terroirs.

The “Crafted in BC” title is not a designation or certification but instead, a messaging approach. VQA wines, made from 100% B. C. grapes, remain the focus and the future for B.C. wineries. There is still plenty of supply in the market from previous vintages and those areas unaffected by the 2024 climate events. The “Crafted in BC” wines from the 2024 vintage will help to bridge the gap while vines recover or vineyards are replanted and B.C. wineries can return to producing wines produced from 100% British Columbia grapes.

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Should the LCBO be Privatized?

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In Ontario, where I live, there is an age-old debate as to whether wine and liquor sales should be government controlled and sold only in the Liquor Control Board of Ontario outlets (LCBO) or allowed to be sold by private enterprise. During recent years, government control has been loosened somewhat, enabling wine, beer and coolers to be sold in grocery stores and more recently in convenience stores.

Photo credit: foodincanada.com

The LCBO’s history dates back to 1927 and the end of prohibition in Ontario. In 1927 the LCBO was basis of three central beliefs:

  1. The best way to prevent social harm and health risks related to alcohol consumption was to make purchasing alcohol awkward or inconvenient.
  2. Adults could not be trusted to make their own decisions around responsible alcohol consumption.
  3. Private sector retailers did not have the capacity to balance market competition and social responsibility.

Attitudes are very different today and it can be argued that the LCBO would not have been necessary nor created if current circumstances had applied in the 1920s.  In today’s world, the private sector manages business enterprises for profit and the government regulates their behaviour through the establishment of standards and the use of enforcement to ensure those standards are met. 

There have been several studies over the years on what reforms, if any, should be made to the LCBO.  It has been argued that the government could generate more revenue by privatizing the LCBO’s retail stores while keeping their wholesale business in place.

This is what Alberta did back in 1993 when it introduced a privatization scheme.  The system initiated more selection, arguably reduced prices and enhanced convenience for the consumer. It provided better opportunities for small business and alleviated the government from direct business operations. 

Despite Alberta’s experience, Ontario has not had the enthusiasm for such a venture. A study published in 2019 suggested that the people of Ontario did not want privatization as they felt the LCBO provided great value-add to the community as their surpluses fund other provincial initiatives. Reform is more likely to take place in the distribution process via an expansion in the type and number of retail outlets allowed to sell wine and in the pricing of wine.

The LCBO has a dual social responsibility mandate. It is responsible for generating revenue for the benefit of the Ontario government, as well as a social responsibility to put in place a system of minimum selling prices to discourage excessive alcohol consumption.  This has been criticized as being a legally sanctioned price fixing mechanism to guarantee profits and discourage price competition. 

It’s interesting to note that each province sets its own rules and regulations regarding the sale of wine and liquor. This is illustrated by the table below which indicates when each province implemented and repealed prohibition in Canada.

Province/territory           Prohibition enacted                     Repealed

British Columbia              1917                                                    1921

Alberta                             1916                                                    1923

Saskatchewan                  1915                                                    1925

Manitoba                         1916                                                    1921

Ontario                             1916                                                    1927

Quebec                             1919                                                    1919

New Brunswick                 1856                                                   1856

                                         1917                                                    1927

Northwest Territories      1874                                                    1891

Nova Scotia                      1921                                                    1930

Prince Edward Island      1901                                                    1948

Yukon                               1918                                                    1920

Newfoundland                 1917                                                    1924

Perhaps standardization of liquor sales should be considered across the country. That could be a discussion for another day.

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The Sparkling Wine Market

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The demand for sparkling wine can be very volatile as it is heavily influenced by consumer moods and trends. Sparkling wine is traditionally related to festive gatherings and celebrations as long as people are congregating for happy times there will be a demand. However, during economic down times or in unusual circumstances like COVID-19, people are not gathering to celebrate and the sparkling wine market suffers.

Photo credit: marketresearchintellect.com

Like in so many segments of the wine industry, there is increasing demand for non-alcoholic sparkling wine options as the younger generations become more health-conscious and want to avoid alcohol. This trend is expanding market appeal. Vintners who embrace this new market by diversifying their product lines and expanding consumer reach will benefit.

Health-conscious consumers are looking for wines with reduced sugar content and fewer calories. This shift encourages innovation in product formulations, helping wine makers attract a broader consumer base. Low-calorie options provide a competitive edge in a health-driven market.

Given today’s ecological and environmental concerns, consumers are also placing much more emphasis on sustainability and organic certifications. Sparkling wine producers who are adopting eco-friendly practices are appealing to environmentally conscious buyers. This trend is providing producers with the ability to command higher prices & enhance brand loyalty.

The sparkling wine market, which has been steeped in tradition for centuries, is now being forced to change by evolving consumer demand. Producers need to respond and adapt to the evolving marketplace if they want to continue to survive.

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April is Wine Month in British Columbia

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For the eighth year, the British Columbia government has declared April as Wine Month in recognition of the vital role that the B.C. wine industry plays in the province’s economy, tourism and culture. Given the effects of the current economic uncertainty combined with the devastating environmental impacts of the past couple of years, this recognition is very timely.

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B.C. Wine Month is intended to be a celebration of everything related to B.C. wine, including new 2024 vintage releases, including B.C. VQA wines, which consist of wines that are 100% produced in B.C., and for a limited time because of the 2024 environmental situation, Crafted in BC wines produced under the 2024 vintage relief and support program. See my post from November 9, 2024, “2024: A Year to Remember” for details regarding the events of 2024.

Wine Month is intended to recognize the people working in the wine and hospitality sectors who create memorable experiences for visitors from around the world that come to enjoy the wines and flavours of the region. This supports grape growers, winemakers and winery operations, increasing the market exposure to their excellent wines.

According to Wines BC (winesbc.com), there are 929 vineyards in British Columbia along with 369 licensed wineries. The B.C.  wine industry generates about 3.75 billion dollars annually, contributes over 440 million dollars in federal and provincial tax revenues, and employs over 14,000 full-time workers. An estimated one million tourists are drawn to the region each year resulting in 452 million dollars in tourism-related revenue, along with 147 million dollars in tourism-related wages from over 2,600 associated jobs. This all boils down to 105 dollars being generated for the economy from every bottle of wine sold.

B.C.’s Wine Month is something worth celebrating.

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