Author: A Layman's Wine Musings

Ardbeg Whisky

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On the small remote Hebridean island of Islay (pronounced ‘eye-lah’), that lies off the western Scottish mainland, is where you will find the 200 year old Ardbeg distillery. The abundance of soft water, fertile soil and acres of precious peat makes Islay a place of pilgrimage for the single malt whisky faithful. I must admit that I have visited the island on two separate occasions and would love to return.

Photo credit: ardbeg.com

Ardbeg claims to produce the most peated of all the Islay malts and having tried it I would not disagree. It achieves this by using the most phenolic malt in the industry. Phenols are a class of organic compounds that contribute to the aroma and taste of whisky. They are often associated with smokiness and medicinal notes commonly found in peated whiskies. Ardbeg’s malt is peated to a level of 50 ppm (parts per million).

The casks used to mature the whisky come from a variety of sources. The vast amount of whisky matures in ex-Bourbon oak barrels. However, there is ongoing experimentation with different types of oak casks.

During the maturation process only 1st and 2nd fill casks are used. All of the new first fill Bourbon casks come from suppliers in the United States. Other casks come from Speyside Cooperage, and Craigellachie in Scotland.

As with many of the Islay distilleries, Ardbeg is situated next to the ocean. As a result, the whisky receives a certain salty, iodine character while it matures.

Here are the stats on Ardbeg’s three main whiskies:

Ardbeg 10 Year Old

  • Alcohol by Volume (ABV) = 46%
  • Appearance = Light Gold
  • Details = Revered for its balanced smoke and fruit character. Shows aromas of lemon, smoke, peat and brine with a kiss of sweet cereal. On the palate, it is warm and smoky with bold, yet balanced flavours that resonate with the aromas. The finish is long, sweet and smoky. Serve neat or with a few drops of pure water.
  • Price = $120 CDN

Ardbeg Uigeadail

  • ABV = 54.25
  • Colour = Deep gold
  • Details = With special vatting, this Ardbeg combines deep traditional smoky notes with sweet, raisiny tones of old, ex-Sherry casks. Rich and weighty with aromas of warm Christmas cake, fresh ocean spice, cedar and pine. Sweet and spicy with deep, smoky flavours, lingering raisins and smoke on the lengthy well-integrated finish.
  • Price = $190 CDN

Ardbeg Corryvreckan

  • ABV = 46.2%
  • Colour = Light gold
  • Details = Expect an intense nose of cedar, brine, and creosote, with caramel, smoky bacon, vanilla and clove; very complex aromas. The palate is also intense, but it is round and finely balanced with outstanding length. The lingering finish shows smoky, black tarry coffee with chocolate. Not for the fainthearted.
  • Price = $238 CDN

If you have a liking for peaty Scotch Whisky, and you haven’t done so already, you should try one or more of Ardbeg’s offerings.

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The Canned Wine Market

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Since I first wrote an introduction to the canned wine market in a post from November 5, 2022, the market has continued to expand. Just as a reminder, canned wines are wines packaged in aluminum can, that provide convenience, portability and freshness. Cans offer a modern alternative to traditional glass bottles, catering to the needs of today’s fast-paced, on-the-go lifestyles of the Millennial and Gen Z consumer segments in particular.

Aluminum cans have enabled a surge in market share within the broader alcoholic beverage industry and has permitted expansion into new international markets and emerging regions. With cans being very adaptable for use at special events and outdoor activities, their popularity continues to grow.

This has all lead to growth in the premium and higher-priced canned wine sectors and encouraged investment from both major and niche wine producers. Strategic partnerships are driving industry growth resulting in innovative can designs to help improve consumer appeal and expand distribution channels into more diverse retail formats.

Wineries have been working to enhance their flavour profiles for canned wines by incorporating flavours such as fruit-infused, botanical and exotic blends. The trend toward moderation and portion control is driving the popularity of single-serve canned wines. Consumers realise the convenience, affordability and reduced environmental impact associated with single use cans.

Canned wines seem to be here to stay and are not just a passing fad.

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Inter-Provincial Wine Sales

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Given all of the recent tariff talk and the renewed patriotism that has come as a result of it, some interesting points have come to light regarding wine sales between provinces. Many Canadians are now avoiding U.S. made products, including wine. As a result, there are now signs of an increased need to support Canadian wineries and renewed calls to open inter-provincial trade in alcohol. However, there are inter-provincial trade barriers standing in the way.

Photo credit: LCBO

Until June 2019, federal legislation prohibited inter-provincial shipment of alcohol directly to the consumer.  This then allowed the provinces the opportunity to pass legislation to permit direct purchase to consumers.  Unfortunately, most provinces chose not to allow this, leaving only British Columbia, Manitoba, Nova Scotia and Saskatchewan who permit direct-to-consumer alcohol shipments.  Ontario has recently amended its laws to prohibit the possession of wine that has been imported from other provinces unless the transaction was handled via the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO). There are now calls to have this ban lifted.

Ontario wine consumers cannot support small local wineries in another province.  Ironically, living in Ontario and purchasing wines produced in another province, the LCBO charges the purchaser the same import duties as if the wine came from a foreign country.

The wine growers of B.C., as well as the B.C. government are advocates of opening provincial borders to enable wine to move east and west across this country. There is a great deal of regulatory burden making it difficult for small and medium-sized wineries. The process needs to be simple and streamlined.

The time has come for Canadian provinces to eliminate inter-provincial trade barriers.

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Health and Lifestyle Changes

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Photo credit: wp.stolaf.edu

Anti-alcohol messaging is going to continue and it will be increased during this upcoming year. The World Health Organization (WHO) is now warning against the consumption of any alcohol. Cancer warning labels are now being proposed and will no doubt soon be applied to all alcohol packaging. These warnings will no doubt be accompanied by a reduction in alcohol consumption. However, there are several other factors that will impact alcohol sales.

To begin with, many Millennial and Gen Z consumers are focused on their physical and mental state and how they portray themselves on social media. They have come to associate alcohol with vulnerability, loss of control, anxiety and abuse. For these reasons they have reduced their alcohol consumption.

The increase in popularity of anti-obesity drugs is also having an impact. Glucagon-like peptide 1 (GLP-1), anti-obesity Semaglutide, Liraglutide, as well as Tirzepatide drugs like Saxenda, Ozempic, Wegovy and Mounjaro are now very popular. GLP-1 works by trigging the release of insulin from the pancreas, reducing glucose from entering the bloodstream, slowing digestion and increasing the ‘full’ sensation people feel after eating.

So, how does this impact wine consumption? Studies revealed that Semaglutide reduced binge-like alcohol drinking. The drugs moderated GABA, the gamma-aminobutyric acid receptors in the brain responsible for the ‘buzz’ associated with moderate consumption of alcohol.

There is growing evidence that many users of these drugs feel less inclined to drink any form of alcohol. If GLP-1 becomes as affordable and as widely used as many predict, the effect on the food and drink industries may be dramatic.

Alcohol-free beverage alternatives are becoming more popular as the quality of these products continues to improve and they gain more market acceptance. Our own kids, who are all adults, are into alcohol free alternatives, especially beer. And now with many craft breweries and estate wineries expanding their offerings to include alcohol free options, the quality of these products maintains the same standard as their alcohol-based options. If nothing else, these beverages will provide lunchtime beverage alternatives to soda or mineral water.

Some countries, such as Great Britain, are imposing a different level of excise tax based on alcohol level. For example, beginning February 1, 2025, the duty and tax on a 13.5% Alcohol by Volume (ABV)bottle of wine will be £3.59, whereas an 8.5% ABV bottle will be taxed at just £2.05.

Finland has just reduced its alcohol distribution rules. Beverages with ABVs of 8% or less can now be sold in supermarkets. Traditionally, once one Nordic nation changes the rules, the others, such as larger Sweden, tend to soon follow.

Public attitudes toward alcohol are changing. The social licence to encourage a guest to have another glass of wine or to finish off the bottle are becoming less acceptable behaviours and are being widely revoked.

As Bob Dylan wrote, “The Times They Are a-Changin”.

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The Peatiest Scotches

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According to the Scottish government, about eighty percent of Scotch whisky includes some amount of peat in the production process. Peat creates the smoky and medicinal flavour of the whisky. When burned during the malting process, the peat releases compounds called phenols. The phenols are measured in parts per million (ppm) which infuse the spirit with its earthy, charred character.

In general terms, the greater the phenol level the smokier the whisky. However, all the phenols are not necessarily transferred from the barley to the final product. The quantity of phenols in the liquid can often be much less than what is measured in the barley, and the smoke’s influence can be reduced during the maturation process.

Those Scotches with the highest concentrations of phenols generally range between 35 and 55 ppm and will have flavours and aromas of campfire smoke, tar, leather and earthiness. However, some distilleries have created whisky that far exceeds those levels.  Here is a sampling of those whiskies below. Unless you are a really big fan of highly peated whiskies, many of these offerings are probably not for you.

Bruichladdich Octomore 8.3

It is no surprise that Bruichladdich Distillery is on Islay, the island renowned for its peated whisky. Phenol levels in Octomore consistently exceed 100 ppm. The brand releases three or four distinct expressions every year, each using different aging techniques. The 2017 collection included the most heavily peated Scotch ever made. The whisky was bottled at 61.2 percent ABV (Alcohol by Volume) and contained a whopping 309 ppm. Unfortunately, this whisky is not available in Ontario.

Ardbeg Hypernova

Ardbeg, another Islay distillery, is famous for its peated whiskies. Hypernova has a phenol level of 170 ppm. It was bottled at a level of 51 percent ABV. This non-age-statement expression is the smokiest Ardbeg released. It is available in liquor stores at a price of about $375 CDN.                                                                     

The GlenAllachie Meikle Toir The Turbo

Distilled in Speyside, GlenAllachie’s whiskies are usually unpeated. That changed in 2023 when the distillery announced Meikle Toir, a new brand of heavily peated whiskies. The Turbo, which is a limited edition, annual release, is the peatiest, being distilled from malts with 70 ppm of phenol. The 2024 expression was matured in a combination of American oak and oloroso hogshead casks and bottled at 50 percent ABV. It is not currently available in Ontario.

Benromach Contrasts: Peat Smoke Sherry Cask Matured

Benromach Distillery is a Speyside distillery that generally produces only lightly peated whisky at around the 12 ppm level. However, this expression pushes the envelope to a level of 55 ppm. Exclusively distilled in small batches and aged solely in first-fill sherry hogshead casks, the whisky provides a delicate balance of smoke and rich fruit flavours. This particular offering from Benromach is not available in Ontario.

Kilchoman Machir Bay

Being located on Islay, Machir Bay is Kilchoman’s flagship whisky having the tone for Islay’s signature style. Intensely smoky, the single malt Scotch is distilled from barley peated at 50 ppm before it’s laid down to mature in a combination of bourbon and sherry casks. It is available in liquor stores for $100 CDN.

Laphroaig 10 Year Cask Strength

Islay’s Laphroaig Distillery has been exclusively producing peated whisky since its birth in 1815. The smokiest expression in the Laphroaig lineup is Laphroaig 10 Year Cask Strength, which is peated at around 45 ppm of phenol. It is available in liquor stores at a price of $110 CDN.

Lagavulin 16 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky

The most popular offering from Islay’s Lagavulin distillery is one of my personal favourites, the 16 Year Old Single Malt. It is a 43-percent ABV whisky that has been aged in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks. The whisky is distilled from malts peated at 35 ppm and contains flavours of caramel, vanilla and saltwater. It is available in liquor stores for $175 CDN.

Caol Ila 12 Year Single Malt Scotch

Another Islay distillery that has been described by some as providing the best peated Scotches for beginners, Caol Ila delivers a sweeter smokiness than some of the more heavily peated Scotches on this list. Distilled from barley at approximately 35 ppm, the whisky carries citrus and potpourri notes combined with subtle peat influence. It is available in liquor stores for $100 CDN.

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Name That Size

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Photo credit: jerseymanmagazine.com

Ignoring cardboard and aluminum packaging options, did you know that there are seventeen glass bottle packaging sizes available for holding your favourite white or red wine? Now every wine is not available in every size as that would be cost prohibitive, but producers have lots of options for packaging their wine, depending on the market for packaging their wines.

The vessels from smallest to largest include:

Split or Piccolo – ¼ the size of a standard bottle or one glass. This is the size often served on trains and airplanes.

Half or Demi – ½ standard bottle or two glasses. This size bottle is also commonly served on trains and airplanes.

Half-litre or Jenni – 2/3 standard bottle or three glasses. This is a common size served in restaurants.

Standard – 1 standard 750 ml. bottle or five glasses. This is the most common size sold in wine stores.

Litre – 1 1/3 standard bottles or 7 glasses. This size is often produced in countries that use the metric system of measure. It is a size commonly sold to venues serving significant quantities of wine.

Magnum – 2 standard bottles or ten glasses. Some wines are available in this size at local wine stores.

Jeroboam or Double Magnum –4 standard bottles or twenty glasses.

Rehoboam – 6 standard bottles or thirty glasses.

Methuselah or Imperial – 8 standard bottles or forty glasses.

Salmanazar – 12 standard bottles or sixty glasses.

Balthazar – 16 standard bottles or eighty glasses.

Nebuchadnezzar – 20 standard bottles or one hundred glasses.

Melchior – 24 standard bottles or one hundred twenty glasses.

Solomon – 26 standard bottles or one hundred thirty glasses.

Sovereign – 35 standard bottles or one hundred seventy-five glasses.

Primat or Goliath – 36 standard bottles or one hundred eighty glasses.

Melchizedek or Midas – 40 standard bottles or two hundred glasses.

As you can now see, there are many sizes of bottles available for supplying your wine.

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Whiskey: Tradition Meets Innovation

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Whiskey has been and continues to be, one of the world’s most favourite spirits. It is both a symbol of tradition and an area for continued innovation. From single malts to blended varieties, whiskey’s rich history that dates back several hundred years, is accompanied by a dynamic, evolving market that attracts both connoisseurs and casual drinkers.

Photo credit: nationalgeographic.com

Whiskey’s deep-rooted craftsmanship, with its complex aging processes and diverse production methods, continues to attract consumers. Distilleries are preserving traditional techniques while embarking on new technologies that help to enhance flavour profiles.

While countries like Scotland, Ireland and North America remain as key players in the industry, whiskey’s appeal is expanding globally, with countries such as Japan and India gaining significant recognition for their increased demand and innovative whiskey production.

Globally the demand for premium and supreme whiskeys is on the rise. This shift is pushing brands to offer a variety of variably priced, exclusive, limited-edition releases to attract whiskey enthusiasts, as well as collectors. These offerings range greatly in price from a few hundred dollars to well into the four-to-five-digit range. A few rare whiskeys have sold for prices even beyond that!

During recent years, producers have been experimenting with new barrel finishes; making use of barrels that were formerly used to store other spirits, such as cognac, sherry, bourbon or brandy. Distillers have found that maturing whiskey in these types of barrels will infuse new flavour from the wood of these barrels into the whiskey. Distillers have also experimented with combining multiple flavour infusions.

The popularity of whiskey-based cocktails and the craft cocktail movement is also expanding whiskey’s appeal. The industry is now attracting younger generations and enhancing market versatility.

Whiskey continues to be a beverage of choice for those who appreciate both tradition and innovation, offering endless possibilities for consumers, whiskey enthusiasts and collectors alike.

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Wine Barrels

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Is the best wine made using French oak barrels or American oak barrels? The answer depends on who is answering. I would be amiss if I didn’t mention that there are also Hungarian oak and Romanian oak but these oaks are seldomly used in making wine.

Photo credit: bodegaspaniza.com

Oak can play a crucial role in the winemaking process. It is a long-known fact that not just any wood will do when it comes to aging wine. Oak has been the choice for centuries. Due to the natural wood compounds, aging wine in oak barrels exposes complex flavours and textures that are crucial to the overall taste and structure of a wine. There are natural wood sugars in the oak that influence the wine’s flavour. The wine’s texture can be enhanced from tannins found in the oak.

French Oak is known by winemakers for its subtlety. These trees have tighter grains that deliver lower amounts of tannin that are more readily integrated into the wine. This wood is also more aromatic, producing delicate notes of dark chocolate, roasted coffee beans, vanilla and baking spices to the wine.

American Oak presents more robust flavour profiles introducing bold vanilla notes along with coconut, sweet spices and dill. The wider grain patterns of American oak also injects more tannins into the wine.

French Oak lets wine age gracefully over time. The wine will evaporate less from barrels of French oak than American oak, thus producing a naturally slower oxidation. On the other hand, American oak will often go through a more rapid oxidation process in the barrel.

When it comes to price, American oak is less expensive to purchase. This is due to it being more readily available than French oak. However, French oak produces a more luxurious wine, making it well worth the higher price tag.

So, which wines work best with French oak versus American oak? Chardonnay flourishes when aged in French oak barrels because the French oak releases delicate vanilla undertones into the flavour of the wine.

Pinot Noir also benefits from the use of French oak. This light-bodied red grape works well with the lower tannin content inherent to French oak. It allows for slow maturation without overwhelming Pinot Noir’s naturally elegant profile.

In contrast, bold reds such as Zinfandel often get paired with American oak. The intense notes of coconut and sweet spice from the American oak can complement the robust nature of these types of wine.

Wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah can work well with either French or American oak, depending on the winemaker’s desires. European winemakers tend to use French oak while American winemakers and some Australian vintners may use American oak. It all comes down to the desired style of the wine.

Many winemakers use both types of barrels or blend wines aged separately. It lets them control flavour profiles more precisely. The type of barrel used, or combination of barrels used will depend on the flavour notes the winemaker wants to achieve.

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Sommeliers – The Stuff-Shirt Approach is Changing

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The way in which wine experts and sommeliers approach wine with their customers is changing. There is movement away from the traditional style of introducing a wine, explaining its character, aromas and flavours. The wine industry is recognizing that this change has become necessary as the younger generations, particularly Gen Z, do not embrace wine as enthusiastically as previous generations. This is resulting in a reduction in wine sales.

Photo credit: sommelierschoiceawards.com

There is a new group of forward-thinking sommeliers who are working to change the way wines are described when tasting and pairing. The aim is to make the industry more inclusive to the younger generation. Everything from the vocabulary used to describe flavours, to the way bottles are marketed and how wine is discussed culturally needs to change.

The traditional way of ordering wine in restaurants has often been fraught with fear by many patrons. The image of an intimidating snooty sommelier, who comes across as testing the depth of the customer’s wine knowledge and skill, is a potential embarrassment in the presence of the person’s date, spouse, family or friends. Many are left wanting the encounter to be over as quickly as possible and without feeling that they have embarrassed themselves and have selected a wine that they like without having to pay an exorbitant price.

The new generation sommeliers want the emphasis to be about creating an experience that makes the guest feel comfortable rather than fearful. Their approach is becoming directed toward how the customer is feeling and asking what they feel like drinking. The focus is on personal interaction; it’s not about the incomprehensibly complex tasting notes of the wines.

Certification of sommeliers has helped standardize baseline wine terminology and language, but it is now important to progress beyond that to provide more approachable and easier understood language for the public.

A new generation of writers, sommeliers, podcasters and influencers are beginning to challenge the traditional approach to understanding and selecting wine. Social media is playing a key role in interpreting wine due to young influencers like Wine Gini, The London Wine Girl or Carron Brown’s The Natural Sommelier. Individuals can now learn about wine in the unintimidating surroundings of their own home.

It is good to see that the wine industry’s image is beginning to change as the new generation of writers, sommeliers, podcasters and influencers are now challenging the old snobby, snooty stereotype.

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Ontario’s Movers and Shakers for 2024

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As the end of the year rolls around I think back to the year that was and which wineries left me with an impressionable mark. This is not to suggest that these are the only great wineries in the province; they are merely the ones that caught my attention this year.   My list varies in length from year to year as I like to focus on achievements rather than listing a specific number of wineries.

Here is my list for 2024. The wineries are presented in alphabetical order.

Henry of Pelham Family Estate

I was surprised when I checked back to my past lists and found that Henry of Pelham has never appeared until now. It was the top Ontario winery this year at the National Wine Awards.

This six-generation family farm is situated in the Short Hills Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula. In 2006, Henry of Pelham was the first vineyard to be certified as local and sustainable by Local Food Plus. They have followed Sustainable Winemaking Ontario’s world-leading standards in their farming practices since 2004. In 2017, they became one of only six Ontario wineries to be certified by the Wine Council of Ontario as following sustainable winemaking practices from vine to table.

This year’s award-winning wines included:

  • Henry of Pelham NV Cuvée Catharine Brut Rosé
  • Henry of Pelham 2022 Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay
  • Henry of Pelham 2023 Pinot Grigio
  • Henry of Pelham 2020 Speck Family Reserve Cabernet-Merlot
  • Henry of Pelham 2023 Speck Family Reserve Riesling

Peller Estates Niagara-on-the Lake

This is Peller Estates fourth appearance on my Movers and Shakers list in the past five years. This year Peller Estates placed eighth at the National Wine Awards.

The Peller Estates team has operated in Niagara-on-the-Lake, in the heart of the Niagara wine region, as a family-owned Canadian company for four generations. Their winemaker is Katie Dickieson, who has previous work experience in vineyards in New Zealand and France, as well as in Ontario and British Columbia.

Their 2024 award winning wines included:

  • Peller Estates 2020 Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Peller Estates 2022 Signature Series Sauvignon Blanc
  • Peller Estates 2021 Signature Series Estate Red
  • Peller Estates 2023 Private Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
  • Peller Estates 2023 Signature Series Vidal Oak Aged Icewine

The Organized Crime Winery

Organized Crime previously appeared as a Mover and Shaker in 2020. This year it was recognized as the fifth small winery at National Wine Awards.

Organized Crime is a second-generation, family-owned, small boutique winery located on the Beamsville Bench of the Niagara Peninsula.

They farm the land themselves and assist in the winemaking throughout all stages of the process. Their production volumes are very small as they intentionally lean towards the passion side of the business rather than the commercial.

Greg Yemen is Organized Crime’s Consultant Winemaker.

Award winning wines from 2024 included:

  • Organized Crime 2022 Sacred Series Cuvée Krystyna Chardonnay
  • Organized Crime 2020 Pipe Down
  • Organized Crime 2020 Sacred Series Tara Block Pinot Noir Unfiltered
  • Organized Crime 2020 Cabernet Franc Unfiltered
  • Organized Crime 2023 Riesling

Thirty Bench Wine Makers

Thirty Bench Wine Makers has previously appeared three times on the Movers and Shakers list, last in 2022. This year they were fifth at the National Wine Awards.

Thirty Bench is committed to “Small Lot” winemaking, which means that many of their wines are made in extremely limited numbers. With Riesling vineyards dating back as far as 1980, they are proud to be considered one of Niagara’s first true boutique wineries.

The Thirty Bench Wine Makers portfolio includes a diverse range of award-winning wines across nine varietals.

2024 award winning wines included:

  • Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Riesling Wood Post Vineyard
  • Thirty Bench 2022 Winemaker’s Blend Cabernet Franc
  • Thirty Bench N/V Sparkling Riesling
  • Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Chardonnay ‘Extended Barrel Aged’
  • Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard

Vieni Estates

Placing tenth at this year’s National Wine Awards, this is Vieni Estates first appearance on the Movers and Shakers list.

Vieni Estates brings the passion for wine from Italy and combines it with the love for this Canadian wine region. Located in the rolling hills of the Vinemount Ridge along the Niagara Escarpment, master winemaker Mauro Salvador takes the best of the many varietals grown on the estate to produce a broad range of still wines, ice wines and sparkling wines.

In addition to the many fine wines produced here, Vieni Estates also offers traditional Italian-style grappas and spirits distilled from the many fruits of Ontario.

This year’s award winning wines included:

  • Vieni Estates 2022 Cabernet Franc
  • Vieni Estates N/V Sparkling Apple Cider
  • Vieni Estates 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve
  • Vieni Estates 2020 Aglianico Reserve
  • Vieni Estates 2023 Novello Nouveau Gamay Noir

Final Thoughts

The list of award-winning wines includes only a sampling from each winery in order to provide you with an idea of the noteworthy wines each winery produces. It is not an all-inclusive list.

As this is the final post for 2024, I would like to wish you all a safe and happy New Year!

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