Is taking the time to serve wine at the proper temperature worth the fuss? Absolutely! Temperature can significantly impact the way a wine smells and tastes. Cooler serving temperatures can suppress the aromatics of a wine and accentuate its structure, making the acidity more noticeable, but also enhancing the wine’s tannins and bitterness. Therefore, aromatic wines, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Gamay benefit from being chilled. These wines have the necessary strength to persist through cold temperatures.
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On the other hand, wines having high levels of tannin, including many orange and red wines, are best served at a higher temperature as chilling them can make them unpleasant to drink.
Generally speaking, there is a range of proper serving temperatures for wine. Most red wines should be served at a temperature that is slightly cooler than room temperature, that is between 15 and 20°C. White wines should be served at a temperature slightly warmer than fridge temperature, that is 7 and 12°.
Below are some basic guidelines to follow when serving various types of wine.
Sparkling, Light-Bodied White Wines and Icewine – Serve ice cold between 3 and 10°C. This can be accomplished by placing the bottle -0n ice or in the freezer for about 30 minutes.
Full-Bodied White, Late Harvest and Rosé Wines – Remove from the fridge a few minutes prior to serving. Serve at a temperature between 7 and 12°C.
Light and Medium-Bodied Red Wines and Orange Wines – Serve at a temperature between 12 and 15°C.
Bold Red Wines – Place in fridge for about 20 minutes prior to serving. The temperature should be between 15 and 20°C.
Don’t be afraid to experiment on your own to find the temperature that best suits your palate. If you have never tried drinking wine at the recommended temperature, give it a try; otherwise you will never know the experience you may be missing.
During a recent trip to the maritime provinces of Canada, I made a point of seeking out local wines to try. The first I came across while in St. Andrews by the Sea, New Brunswick; the second I found in North Rustico, Prince Edward Island and two while in Nova Scotia.
The first wine my wife and I tried was a 2019 Marquette from the Magnetic Hill Winery of Moncton, New Brunswick. It was a light bodied red wine similar to a Pinot Noir. It had aromas of cherries, blackcurrants and blackberries. The wine was a pleasure to drink and reasonably priced at $20.00 CDN.
The Marquette varietal is the cousin of the Frontenac varietal, which is a well-known French North American hybrid, and a descendant of Pinot Noir. This wine pairs well with pub foods such as cheeseburgers, bangers (sausages) and mash and chili con carne.
The second wine we tried was a $21.99 CDN Gamay from Matos Winery & Vineyards of St. Catherines, PEI. Until then I was not aware that there is a winery on PEI.
Matos Winery & Vineyards is a family-owned and run business that was initiated in 2007. They utilize the French concept of terroir whereby they found a location where the combination of soil, slope, sun exposure and the peculiar weather patterns allow certain grape varieties to thrive. They consulted with European vintners who visited PEI to provide their skill and knowledge.
Their Gamay has won a bronze medal at the National Wine Awards in 2016, 2014, 2012 and silver in 2011.
The first wine from Nova Scotia that we tried was the 2022 Baco Noir from Blomidon Estate Winery, of the Annapolis Valley, near Canning.
The 2022 Baco Noir has a nose of bright berry fruit accentuated by vanilla and notes of spice. Unfortunately for us, we found the wine to be slightly harsh and not quite as smooth and mellow as we have become accustomed to for Baco Noir. The price of this wine is $23.00 CDN.
Given the structure of this wine it would be best suited for pairing with barbecued beef or pork.
Blomidon Estate produces 100% Nova Scotia grown grapes and wines. Over the years they have earned several national and international awards.
The 2nd wine from Nova Scotia we experienced was Founders’ Red from Jost Winery, which is made from a blend of Leon Millot and Marechal Foch grapes. We experienced this wine during a quiet afternoon at our B&B outside of Cap-Pelé, New Brunswick. Like the day, this wine was very smooth and mellow. It had wonderful fruit flavours and was well worth the $17.19 CDN we paid for it.
Founders’ Red is a well-balanced blend of Nova Scotian-grown grapes with deep colour and intensity. This wine pairs well with barbequed meats and roasted pork.
Wings and beer are pretty much standard fare, a pairing seemingly made in heaven. When it comes to pairing drink with wings, usually the last thing to come to mind is wine. However, I am here to talk about wine, not beer, so here are some fun and interesting wine pairing suggestions for the next time wings are on the menu. The only challenge will be keeping the sticky sauce off your wine glass.
Photo credit: mapleleaffarms.com
When it comes to pairing wine with wings, it is all about the sauce. The wine needs to match the spice, heat and acid found in the wing sauces. Therefore, the wine must calm the heat, highlight the sauce’s acidity with its own acidity and complement the spiciness – a relatively easy task.
Here are some of the more typical wing varieties and corresponding wine recommendations:
BBQ
There are many varieties and interpretations of BBQ sauce. But when it comes to wings, the sauce is likely to be sweet and heavy. Such big bold sauces call for a big bold red wine, such as Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Zinfandel or Carménère. The intense red and black fruit you find in these wines will complement the tomatoes and spices found in BBQ wing sauce. The high tannins will offset the heat of chili and cayenne.
Savory, herbal notes found in these reds will go well with the garlic and onions in the sauce. And the wine’s dry nature will offset the sweetness of brown sugar and molasses.
Buffalo
This is a classic made from butter and hot sauce with heat levels ranging from mild to super hot. A sweeter wine such as Riesling, Vouvray or Gewürztraminer is just the thing to pair with spicier foods. The higher acidity of these wines will cut through the buttery sauce and the fatty chicken beneath.
Garlic Parmesan
The light, stone fruit flavours of Pinot Grigio will pair well with the taste of garlic and hit of flavour of the Parmesan cheese.
Honey Garlic
Sweet and savory, honey garlic wings tend to forego heat for a big aroma, along with a tangy flavour. Honey and garlic are both strong flavours so the wine needs to support the aromas and flavours. Sparkling Rosé, Crémant d’Alsace, Chenin Blanc or Prosecco will work well in this regard.
Honey Mustard
The sweet tang of honey mustard wings will go well with an unoaked or slightly oaked Chardonnay.
Jerk
Rosé is the perfect pairing for quelling the lingering heat of chicken wings coated with a peppery jerk rub.
Korean-Style
The bright acidity of a Grüner Veltliner is a great pairing for crispy Korean-style wings.
Lemon Pepper
Whether you’re trying a dry rub or a sauce, lemon pepper wings offer a light, zingy flavour that is typically less spicy. It will pair well with wines with lots of citrus flavour and acidity. A French Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis or Dry Riesling are good choices. These wines typically have brilliant lemon aromas, along with a strong sense of minerality that will go with the hit of pepper.
Sweet Chili
Thai-inspired wings are both the sweet and the spicy. Generally, a Thai Chili sauce packs less heat than other wing sauces so an overly sweet wine is not required. An off-dry white or light red can easily offset the spice. Good wine pairings include Chenin Blanc, a sweet Riesling, Zweigelt or Pinot Gris.
Teriyaki
A light fruit forward Spanish Garnacha will complement the sweet glaze of teriyaki wings.
I strongly suggest having a glass of wine along side your next feed of finger-licking good chicken wings. It may surprise you.
Last week I began the discussion on wine glasses. Now I will turn the discussion to the specific types of glasses used for the various varietals of red and white wine.
White Wine Glasses
Having short bowls and long stems, these glasses are perfect for capturing the bright acidity in white wines. The glasses are smaller than red wine glasses, with a less curved bowl and a much narrower opening. White wines don’t require as much space to breathe as reds, and these glasses help deliver subtle aromatics by bringing the wine closer to your nose. There are specific white wine glasses that are designed to enhance full-bodied white wines and those that work best with high-acid wines.
Chardonnay Wine Glasses
White varietals like Chardonnay are best served in a Chardonnay glass. The u-shaped bowl and long stem help the wine’s notes to shine and keep the warmth of your hand away from the bowl. A Chardonnay glass works well with other full-bodied whites such as Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Trebbiano and Sémillon. For oaky Chardonnays, a Pinot Noir wine glass may also be used.
Sauvignon Blanc / Riesling Wine Glasses
Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling wines can be served in the same style of glass. The mid length stem and the narrow bowl will taper slightly. The smaller bowl makes it easier to enjoy the aromas in the wine.
Dessert / Port Wine Glasses
Dessert wine glasses are available in many shapes and sizes, but they tend to be much smaller than standard wine glasses, as these high-alcohol wines are commonly served in two-ounce pours. These glasses will strengthen the aromas and flavour of dessert wines.
Champagne Flutes
Tall and thin, the traditional Champagne flute is generally a visual sign for a celebration. With a small surface area, streamlined straight lines and sturdy base, these glasses help preserve the rising bubbles in Champagne, Sekt, Cava and other sparkling wines. The design helps keep the wine’s bubbles at the base of the glass.
Red Wine Glasses
The overall height and bowl of red wine glasses are larger than those used for white wine. The shape and thickness of a glass influences the aromas, tastes and textures in the wine. The wide bowls on red wine glasses are ideal for swirling, aerating and smoothing the wine, similar to what a decanter would do. This allows the fruity, floral and minerally aromas and flavors to soften, creating a balanced wine tasting experience.
Cabernet Sauvignon / Bordeaux / Merlot Glasses
Bordeaux glasses are designed to enhance full-bodied red wines such as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Bordeaux blends. These glasses are a good match with tannic wines that are often higher in alcohol. The tall bowls and tapered rims round out the flavour intensity and increase alcohol evaporation.
Syrah / Shiraz / Sangiovese / Malbec Glasses
This style is shorter than the Cabernet Sauvignon type glass and has a smaller bowl, designed for medium to full-bodied red wines. The wine’s flavour and spice are softened because the wine hits your palette more gradually due to the smaller opening. The narrower bowl is more tapered to help trap the aroma.
Pinot Noir / Burgundy Wine Glasses
Pinot Noir/Burgundy glasses are perfect for light-bodied reds but are also good for Rosé and oaked Chardonnay. A Pinot Noir glass has a shorter stem and very wide bowl and slightly tapered rim that softens the acidity and tannins. This enables aeration so the delicate floral aromas of the wine can be appreciated.
Universal Wine Glasses
Most glassware manufacturers offer grape and regional specific wine glasses designed for specific styles of wine. This is great if your preferred choice is one style or grape varietal. However, this is not so good if you don’t just like one type of wine. In this situation, a universal wine glass may be a better option, especially if you only want to have a single type of wine glass in your cupboard.
Also, for people just getting started, universal wine glasses are a good investment. These glasses do a reasonable job of balancing the aromas and flavour of most types of wine. They are characterized by having medium-sized bowls, stems and bases, making them versatile, regardless of the varietal or occasion. They are good for serving red, white and sparkling wines.
Stemless Wine Glasses
Despite the risk of warming the wine with the heat of your hand, stemless wine glasses are a good practical option for everyday use and casual gatherings. Having a universal bowl, these glasses are often a good choice when there are young children or active pets around, reducing the likelihood of both spillage and breakage.
The vessel from which we devour the sweet nectar of the gods – wine – is an important component of the overall experience. The correct shape and style of the glass ensures that we experience the wine’s full and uninhibited aroma and flavour. The experts agree that using a glass made for the varietal that you are drinking is important if you want to taste and smell all the complexities and intricacies of the grape’s character. Varietal-specific glasses are designed to accentuate the fruit character and structural components of the wine to allow for full enjoyment.
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There are two different types of wine glasses, stemmed and stemless. There are four parts to every stemmed wine glass, three parts to a stemless one. The similarities and differences are described below.
The rim is the uppermost part of the bowl on both types of glasses. The thickness, shape and size of the rim controls how quickly and smoothly the wine flows out of the bowl into your mouth and where in your mouth the wine first makes contact.
The bowl is attached to the top of the stem on a stemmed wine glass. The bowl enables the wine to be swirled, allowing aeration of the wine and permitting for the release of subtle nuances in the wine which would otherwise remain hidden. With white wines, a smaller bowl maintains vibrancy and freshness in the wine while for big bold red wines, a large bowl moderates the high tannin and alcohol content, to allow the complex flavour and characteristics to be distinguished.
Next, on a stemmed glass the stem connects the bowl to the base. The stem is a thin piece of glass that helps keep the warmth, oils and scents from your hand away from the wine. It also aids in enabling the wine to be swirled. The length and thickness of a stem varies depending on the type of wine glass for the varietal the glass is designed for. Because of the body heat factor, I use only wine glasses that have a stem. However, it is now possible to obtain double-walled stemless wine glasses which help to insulate the wine from the heat of your hand. However, these glasses don’t appear to be available in a variety of bowl types.
Finally, the base of the glass provides stability. Bases come in various shapes and sizes, depending on the overall design of the glass. Stemless wine glasses are not constructed with a base. Their bowls rest directly on a flat surface. Because the stemless glass does not stand as high as a stemmed glass it does have the benefit of being more stable and there is less likelihood of it being knocked over.
Next week I will continue the discussion on glasses, examining the variation in glasses by the type of wine each is intended for.
Being only 30 miles long and several miles wide, California’s Napa Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) is one of the smallest winegrowing regions in the world, with only one-sixth the planted acreage of Bordeaux. About 95% of the wineries are family-owned businesses. The region’s established viticultural practices result in low yields of high-quality grapes, from which the winemakers produce Napa Valley’s renowned wines, which include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Napa generates only 4% of California’s wine grape harvest but has an extraordinary mixture of microclimates, weather and geography, as well as some of the most varied soils found in a wine region anywhere.
In 1968 Napa Valley became the home of the first Agricultural Preserve in the U.S., a long time before environmental issues became a major concern. Today it has the most comprehensive and stringent land use and environmental regulations of any American winegrowing region.
Napa contains 16 sub or nested appellations, each with its own distinct microclimate and terrain that provide recognizable characteristics on the grapes grown there. These sub appellations are presented alphabetically below:
Photo credit: bigvalleywines.com
Atlas Peak
The elevation ranges between 230 to 800 metres above sea level with temperatures in the summer that are about 10–15° cooler than the valley floor. There is low day-to-night temperature range, with summer temperatures rarely rising above 32° Celsius.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay grapes are grown in this region.
Calistoga
Daytime summer temperatures may reach more than 38° Celsius and fall to as low as 4° at night. There are cool afternoon and evening breezes. Elevations range from 90 to 370 metres above sea level.
The main varietals grown in this area are Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah.
Chiles Valley
Temperatures peak in the 25° range but the higher elevation and summer fog at night result in nighttime temperatures in the 10° range. With an elevation of 180 to 370 metres above sea level, there are colder winters and springs, as well as strong winds, which results in the harvest coming later than down in the valley.
The key varietals are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Coombsville
Because of the cool maritime winds from the San Pablo Bay, as well as the Petaluma Gap, high temperatures rarely get above 27° Celsius. This appellation is at a low elevation not exceeding 200 metres above sea level.
The grape varietals include Pinot Noir, Merlot and Chardonnay.
Diamond Mountain
There are moderately warm temperatures in this region, with less fluctuation than the north Napa Valley floor. Summertime temperatures range from 10° t0 30° Celsius. The elevation ranges from 120 to 670 metres above sea level.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc varietals are grown in the region.
Howell Mountain
Howell Mountain is situated above the fog line on the eastern side of the valley. This area is warmer and drier than the other appellations because of more hours of sunshine and an insignificant amount of marine influence. The elevation ranges from 180 to 800 metres above sea level.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel grapes are grown in this area.
Los Carneros
With marine winds from the San Pablo Bay and the Petaluma Gap, high temperatures rarely exceed 27° Celsius. Elevations range from sea level to 215 metres above sea level.
Varietals grown include Pinot Noir, Merlot and Chardonnay.
Mount Veeder
There is a cool to moderate temperature in this region, with most of the vineyards situated above the fog line. This results in warmer nights and cooler days than on the valley floor below. Normal summer highs are in the 30° Celsius range. Elevation ranges from 150 to 800 metres above sea level.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and Chardonnay grapes are grown.
Oak Knoll
Having a moderate to cool climate with marine air and fog often remaining until late morning, afternoon breezes often develop, maintaining summer temperatures that reach as high as 33° Celsius. Elevations rise from sea level up to 150 metres.
The varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Oakville
The climate is moderately warm, with temperatures generally in the mid-30s during summer, but are impacted by night and early morning fog. Elevations are the same as Oak Knoll, rising from sea level to 150 metres.
However, only Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc varietals produced here.
Rutherford
The region is moderately warm, marginally influenced by early morning fog. Summer temperatures usually rise to the mid-30s, with a distinct day-to-night fluctuation in temperature. Elevations range from sea level to 180 metres.
Grape varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel.
St. Helena
Less fog and wind, along with heat reflecting off the hillsides, see summer temperatures often reach the mid-to-high 30s. Elevations range from 30 to 200 metres above sea level.
Grape grown include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Zinfandel.
Spring Mountain
Cool weather prevails as most of the vineyards are located above the fog line, providing warmer nights and cooler days than the valley floor below. Mid-summer temperatures reach 30° Celsius. Elevations range from 180 to 800 metres above sea level.
Grapes grown include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Zinfandel
Stags Leap
This region is moderately warm with afternoon marine winds cooling the warmer air. Summer temperatures can reach to about 40° Celsius but are normally in the mid-30s. Elevations range from sea level to 150 metres.
Grapes grown include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Wild Horse Valley
This is one of the warmer regions with summer temperatures hovering in the mid-30s. Elevations range from 180 to 600 metres above sea level.
Varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Yountville
Moderate, with cool marine influence and morning fog, summer mornings are cool in this region. Marine breezes keep afternoons more comfortable than further up the valley with high temperatures reaching 32° Celsius and nighttime lows dropping into the teens. Elevations range from just above sea level to 60 metres.
Varietals are limited to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Whisky has evolved from simply being a drink on its own to being part of an overall holistic lifestyle. Today people who appreciate fine single-malt scotch whisky are also thought to have an appreciation for fashion, travel, watches, cars and luxury pursuits. All of these things can go together hand in hand.
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There was a period during the 1980s when there was an excess of Scotch Whisky production that was the result of erroneous market assumptions. This resulted in a ‘lake’ of unsellable whisky because of the miscalculation in demand. This became known as the ‘Whisky Loch’. During this period twenty distilleries closed, production slowed by 35% and 20 years later there was still a large quantity of undesired 3 year old whisky.
New markets opening due to the ever-growing middle class in India, China and South America point towards a promising future for Scotch Whisky and single malts in particular; there is currently no fear of another Whisky Loch occurring anytime soon.
A combination of non-aged whiskies are often being used to appeal to new and younger audiences. Refined approaches to marketing and branding are being explored. Also, with the resurgence in the demand for Scotch Whisky, the supply of aged single malts has been somewhat depleted resulting in higher prices for these whiskies. The new blends, on the other hand, have a more favourable price point. These new blended whiskies can also become the base for a variety of nice whisky cocktails.
While dining in a restaurant in Paris earlier this year I came across something that I had never seen before – being able to purchase wine by the portion of the bottle that you consume. The server provides you with your choice of a bottle of French red or white. The bottle comes with a string tied around the neck that then drapes down the length of the bottle. There are knots in the string to indicate 12, 25, 37, 50, 62 and 75 centilitres of wine.
This is referred to as, “à la ficelle”. It is a very practical approach to purchasing wine when you don’t want to consume a whole bottle but desire more than a single glass.
Although the concept of ficelle wine has only started to become popular in restaurants in recent years, the concept dates all the way back to the 15th century. According to legend, it was an Auvergne innkeeper by the name of Gaultier who, in the 1400s, used a piece of string to determine how much wine his customers drank.
During that time wine was served in earthenware or pewter pitchers. The innkeeper used an evenly spaced knotted rope to determine the quantity of wine his patrons had consumed. The distance between each knot represented 25 centilitres of wine.
With the current trend where people are reducing their wine consumption, the concept of string wine is becoming more popular. Less restaurant patrons are purchasing wine by the bottle and instead 20% now favour wine by the glass while 12% now prefer the wine by string concept.
Many of the world’s wine regions are facing problems resulting from an oversupply of grapes. For example, last year the French government spent 200 million euros to dispose of surplus wine. In addition to that, Bordeaux region vintners received 57 million euros to destroy 9,500 hectares of grape vines.
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In Australia, millions of vines are being destroyed and tens of millions more must be removed to control overproduction. Drastically reduced grape prices are threatening the incomes of growers and wine makers.
Falling consumption of wine worldwide has hit Australia particularly hard as demand shrinks fastest for the cheaper reds that are its biggest product. It had relied on the Chinese market for growth until recent years. Last year there was more than two billion litres of surplus wine in Australia.
Oversupply is not a new phenomenon. In the past the industry has always been able to readjust but going forward it may not be as easy. Past declines were triggered by economic factors such as market crashes, the tech boom, new tax laws and other more specific events that impacted the amount of money people spent and how they prioritized their consumption of wine.
Today the reduction in wine consumption is the result of a change in attitude and lifestyle resulting in people consuming less wine. Campaigns such a “Dry January” and “Sober October” are becoming more and more popular, leading to less wine consumption in the other ten months of the year. As a result, wine drinking has been declining year over year since 2017.
In France, wine consumption has declined significantly, from 150 litres per person per year in 1950, to 40 litres per person in 2022. The French people are no longer insular with just their own culture. Instead, they have adopted influences from other parts of the world and as a result, have substituted some of their wine consumption with other beverage options, such as beer, whiskey and cocktails.
Cuisine is changing as well, which has altered drinking habits. Lighter food choices and finger foods are often replacing traditional multi-course meals. Also, people have been reducing the amount of red meat in their diet. This has resulted in consumers wanting lighter, lower-alcohol wines. The Bordeaux region in particular has been greatly impacted by this, having reduced demand for their full-bodied red wines.
The U.S. market is being impacted as well due to a focus on wellness and a change in lifestyle. Non-alcoholic beverages sales there have increased 20.6 percent from 2021 to 2022.
People are drinking less wine but better wine. Over the past seven years, the U.S. wine industry is seeing growth rates sag in the under $12 category but wines in higher-priced tiers continue to see growth.
This change has also impacted wine sales in Australia where for the first time since the mid-1990s there is an oversupply based on a lack of consumer demand. A main driver of the decline is due to the lack of demand for Australin wine in the U.S.
There are other factors as well affecting Australian wine sales. In March 2021, China imposed a 218 percent tariff on Australian wine in response to Australia requesting an independent investigation as to the origins of COVID-19. China’s decision wreaked havoc on Australia’s wine industry.
The world is also still feeling the effects of the pandemic. From supply chain issues to how people purchase and consume wine was severely impacted. The good news is that there are indications that the wine industry is heading toward a return to normalcy, at least in this regard. Wine consumption remains lower than in 2015 but above what it was in 2021. This is largely due to the reopening of bars and restaurants. The long-term effects remain to be seen.
Depending on soil conditions, some French vintners are now investigating switching to other crops such as corn or wheat. Others are changing vineyards into livestock pastures. Australia is focusing on market expansion and providing wineries with market data so they can determine their best course of action. Not waiting for new markets to open, some growers are turning to citrus and nut trees instead.
One thing for certain is there is currently much uncertainty in the wine industry.
Here is what the organizers and judges were seeing, hearing and thinking at this year’s WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada (NWAC). Their narrative has been separated by each judging category and presented below.
Photo credit: winealign.com
Sparkling Wine
While global wine consumption has decreased over the past two years. Sparkling wine, except for costly Champagne, has progressed upwards. In Canada, the Sparkling category burst during the pandemic, especially with accessible and affordable selections. The quality of Canadian sparkling wine continues to improve.
Red Blends
Red blends are abundant in both British Columbia and Ontario, making it the second largest category at the National Wine Awards. There is a variety of styles and grape varieties.
Bordeaux blends and Rhone blends continue to be important, but winemakers are increasingly evolving beyond the traditional French classic style. The next frontier is beginning to appear where blends consisting of Malbec, Carménère and Syrah are part of a new wave of Okanagan red blends.
White Blends
Winemakers continually mix and match with several varietal combinations. There are many permutations made with traditional varietals, as well as hybrid grapes.
There are no firm rules other than those set out by VQA which says that all the grapes in a labeled bottle must come from the province, an appellation and sub-appellation. Beyond this, the choices are endless, allowing white blends to vary from the traditional to the eclectic. Concepts include the Bordeaux combination of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, Rhône blends that may include Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, but also Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc, Picpoul and Ugni Blanc. This year, British Columbia has continued to set the trends for blending and styles.
Rosé
There is a great deal of flexibility with respect to producing Rosé wine. Extraction levels and pigmentation can vary, many red or combination of red and white grape varietals can be used and there are no rules overseeing sweetness levels or oak aging.
Most Rosés are not meant for extended aging and are often best consumed in the year in which they are made. In Canada, most Rosés are bottled from March to June and make it to the stores between April and July.
Pinot Gris/Grigio
This white wine grape is a mutation clone of the black Pinot Noir grape. The skin colour varies greatly, and the wines produced from Pinot Gris also vary in hue from palest yellow to deep golden to blushing salmon. Pinot Gris also goes by its Italian name, Pinot Grigio. Wines made in the fresh, crisp and unoaked style of Italy’s Veneto region are called Grigio, while those in a richer, riper version go by Gris.
Orange
Orange wines are skiin contact white wines. There is no rule as to the length of the contact period or the grape varietals used. These wines range widely in colour and style.
Niagara’s popular Vidal grape responded well to skin contact, bringing texture and complexity to its tropical fruit profile. However, aromatic Gewürztraminer, with its subtly oily mouthfeel and subtle tannic framework, also showed well.
Gamay
Things change each year as there are new entries from newer wineries making Gamay. Some things also remain the same as many long-time advocates and committed Gamay producers continue to make excellent wines.
Pinot Noir
No other grape causes more of a stir. For many, there is no other grape variety. Pinot Noir has found enormous global success and Canadian soils are largely responsible for that. From agile, transparent, high-toned, red berry charmers to darker, seriously ripe and often tannic iterations, Pinot Noir succeeds with harmony and balance.
Chardonnay
This is always one of the largest categories in the competition. Chardonnay always leads or equals the greatest number of medals from platinum to bronze. Prices ranged from $87 for the most expensive medal winner to $11.95 for the least costly.
While the most expensive wine was not a platinum winner, there is a correlation between price and medal earned, establishing that top quality wine sells for more money. The average price for the platinum winners came in at just over $45, $40 for gold, $39 for silver and $33 for Bronze.
Malbec and other Red Single Varieties
Malbec represented 18 of the 41 medal winners in this category and accounted for 7 of 8 of the gold medals. It accounted for just 1.4% of entries in the competition but earned 4.1% of all gold medals.
This trend is almost entirely driven by British Columbia. There is something special about Okanagan Malbec. Much like Syrah, it does well up and down the valley.
Other White Single Varieties
Chardonnay and Riesling are often singled out as the signature grapes when it comes to top quality Canadian white wine. There are many other white varieties producing spectacular results including Grüner Veltliner wines from British Columbia.
Chenin Blanc is another consistent performer in BC and Ontario, making vibrant, fruit- forward wines.
Sleek, elegant Sémillon wines are also cropping up with increased frequency from coast to coast, as single variety wines and in classic Sauvignon blends.
Pinot Blanc proved its merit for good value, easy drinking white wine.
Gewürztraminer and Viognier
Viognier and Gewürztraminer remain minor varieties on the Canadian wine scene. Both grapes are particularly unreliable in Ontario, where Gewürztraminer accounted for just 2% of total production in 2023. Viognier is so rare that it is in the “other” category in the VQA’s annual report. In B.C. Gewürztraminer places a respectable 4th among white varieties in 2023, behind Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling. Viognier sits in ninth position alongside other Rhône varieties suitable to the West Coast’s unique conditions.
Sauvignon Blanc
At this year’s competition, Sauvignon Blanc took great strides and gained increased favour from judges and wine lovers. There were 32 medals awarded, with 20 going to Ontario and 12 to British Columbia. Of impressive interest is the average price of the 16 Silver Medal winners. These are wines that scored 90 points with an average cost of $23.40.
Syrah
“Syrah” above “Shiraz” is the key style in Canada. Reflective of a French Rhône style “Syrah”, as opposed to “Shiraz”, wines labelled as such tend to be distinctively peppery, with more sharp tannins, lower alcohol and exhibit more freshness than “Shiraz”. Yet in Canada, there is no enforcement over the use of these terms. Vintage variation and place do play a deterministic role, but the style of Syrah in Canada is heavily influenced by winegrowing and winemaking decisions that vary from producer to producer.
Ontario can produce excellent Syrah, but the category has forever been dominated by British Columbia.
Riesling
Canada has many great and quality examples of Riesling. It is a variety that truly expresses the place where it is grown. Riesling also counts among some of Canada’s oldest planted vinifera varieties, with plantings dating back to the mid 1970’s and early 1980’s in both Niagara and the Okanagan Valley.
Icewine & Late Harvest
Icewine, is the most important wine export. Now more than ever, due to erratic weather patterns, production is being threatened. Since the start of Icewine production in the 1970’s, a harvest has never been missed despite coming close a few times because of a mild winter in Ontario.
VQA regulations require the grapes to be naturally frozen on the vine, harvested, and pressed while the air temperature remains at or below -8 degrees Celsius. Recurrent periods of freezing and thawing can cause grapes to split, increasing unpredictable acidity in the wine. Production is a physically demanding task for both for the vines, that must bear their fruit into the cold of winter, as well as for the winemaker, who often harvests on the coldest of winter nights.
Cabernet Sauvignon
The number of gold medals has dropped from 13 in 2022 to 10 in 2023 to 7 this year. Despite the results, it is the category that has the most potential.
Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely planted grape in the world, but such is not the case in Canada. It is the third most planted red variety in British Columbia, with 7.7% of total grapes grown. In Ontario, Cabernet Sauvignon represents only 5.9% of the grape harvest. There’s been a consistent downward trend, as a percentage of tonnage, over the last five years.
Cabernet Franc
Ontario has historically had a slight edge over the Okanagan Valley, given Ontario’s generally cooler and wetter climate, which suits the lighter, aromatic style that the judges tend to favour. However, the margin of difference has always been slim.
This year Ontario captured 38 out of 53 medals in total. However, British Columbia’s representation was impacted by the wildfires that severely impacted the Okanagan Valley in 2021, which resulted in smoke-tainted wines from some parts of the valley. Since these wineries did not submit any smoke-tainted wines, the number of submissions from B.C. was reduced significantly.
Merlot
Merlot remains the number one red planted grape in British Columbia.
There you have it; and that’s a wrap on the 2024 National Wine Awards.
A Layman's Wine Musings 