Author: A Layman's Wine Musings

Vintage versus Non-vintage Wine

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On the surface, the difference between vintage and non-vintage wines is simple. Vintage wines are made from grapes harvested during a single growing season, while non-vintage wines can blend a few different harvests. Non-vintage wine, sometimes referred to as stylized wine, is where the winemaker often aims to match the flavour of the wine to be the same as previous years. On the other hand, vintage wines are based on the characteristics of the vineyard and climate. Due to climatic conditions, some years produce wines that are considered better than others.

Photo credit: vinepair.com

Finding a bottle’s vintage is relatively straightforward. Simply look for the year printed on the label of the bottle. This tells you when the grapes were grown and the wine produced was made. Wine labels containing the description “single vintage” indicate that the wine was produced exclusively from grapes from a single harvest. Depending on the producing country, that ratio must be comprised of 75% to 95% of same-crop grapes. As long as a producer abides by that percentage, they can label their bottle as vintage.

The vintage is an indication of the quality of the wine. The wine flavours, textures, mouthfeel, aroma and bouquets are fundamentally determined by the weather and climate conditions during its specific growing season. Since vintage tells you what year those grapes were grown, you are provided with an accurate distinction between “good” crop years yielding delicious, balanced wines from “bad” crop years hindered by poor weather.

Non-vintage wines are wines created by blending grapes from multiple crops. As a result, they will not have a year printed on the label or will simply have “N.V.” to denote the fact its contents are not from a single harvest. Non-vintage wine quality will vary, as with vintage wines. Many are raved about for their consistency and cost-consciousness and represent good value for more casual wine drinking.

Which is better? The answer depends on what you are looking for from your drinking experience. There are wonderful single vintages and non-vintages available. Non-vintages will offer more diversity and flexibility, particularly when it comes to blends combining several complementary grape varietals. In contrast, vintages provide the opportunity to discover a specific wine region, a micro-climate and even a winemaker’s bottling skills and expertise in ways non-vintages cannot.

Sláinte mhaith

Biodynamic Wine

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While visiting a winery in the Beaujolais district of France a few weeks ago I was introduced to a new term. I was told that the winery I was visiting was a biodynamic winery. This was a description I had not heard before, so I decided to research the topic in more depth when I returned home from my trip.

You may be familiar with what organic farming entails (if not, see my post Organic Wine from August 8, 2020), however the biodynamic movement is somewhat different. According to the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association, biodynamics is “a spiritual-ethical-ecological approach to agriculture, gardens, food production and nutrition.” Biodynamic wine is made with a set of farming practices that views the vineyard as one solid organism. The ecosystem functions with each portion of the vineyard contributing to the next. Conceptually, everything in the universe is interconnected and gives off a resonance or ‘vibe’. This interconnectivity even includes celestial bodies like the moon, planets and stars. Biodynamic viticulture is the practice of balancing this resonance between vine, human, earth and stars. Biodynamics is a holistic view of agriculture.

As with organic farming, natural materials, soils, and composts are used to sustain the vineyard. Chemical fertilizers and pesticides are not permitted. A range of animals from ducks to horses to sheep live on the soil and fertilize it, creating a rich, fertile environment for the vines to grow in. Biodynamic farming also seeks sustainability, leaving the land in as good or better condition.

Biodynamic farming has been met with skepticism by many scientists as some of the practices are difficult at best to prove they work. In addition to organic practices, biodynamic farming takes other factors into account, such as the lunar calendar and astrology. This method of farming considers all aspects of life in the vineyard — other plants, insects and animals. It’s not just about the grapes.

Photo credit: winefolly.com

Farming practices from pruning to harvesting are controlled by the biodynamic calendar. It breaks all the tasks associated with farming into four types of days: root days, flower days, fruit days and leaf days. Each of these categories has certain tasks associated with it that are reflective of the earth’s four classical elements. Fruit days are meant for harvesting, leaf days for watering, root days for pruning. On flower days, nothing is done in the vineyard.

Biodynamic farming calls for specific and sometimes strange compost and field preparations. One of these is known as cow horn manure. Cow horns are stuffed with manure compost and buried into the ground all through the winter, then excavated the following spring. When excavated, the stuffed material is spread throughout the vineyard.

Biodynamic wines must be certified and adhere to strict rules and regulations. The wineries are overseen by 2 governing bodies, Demeter International and Biodyvin.

Biodynamic wines can be found in the United States, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Eastern Europe, Chile, Argentina, India and Australia. Those who believe in the philosophy feel that the wines are more characteristic to the terroir where they originate. However, wine experts say there is no noticeable difference in the taste of biodynamic wine from organically produced wines. Is the difference worth the additional effort? You be the judge.

Sláinte mhaith

Speyburn 16 Scotch

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While cruising down the Rhône River through the heart of one of France’s noteworthy wine regions, I discovered a Scotch whisky that quickly became one of my favourites, Speyburn 16 Year Old.

Photo credit: ScotchWhisky.com

The whisky is aged for 16 years in American ex-bourbon barrels. The resulting spirit is a delicate golden colour with the aroma of fruit, vanilla and toffee. The flavour is medium bodied with hints of vanilla, chocolate and honey. The finish is long with a touch of oaky spice. I found it to be close in comparison to Glenlivet 18, but at a more comfortable price point.

Speyburn distillery is more than 125 years old and is located in the heart of Scotland’s Speyside whisky region. A fellow by the name of John Hopkins started whisky production in late 1897. The distillery shut down in 1939 so that the Scottish Artillery Regiment could utilise the facility during World War II, but it was back up and operating again by 1947.

In 1992, Speyburn was sold to Inver House Distillers and the two have been working together ever since. The distillery began expansion work in 2014 in order to double their production capacity. However, even with doubling the amount of whisky being produced, Speyburn has yet to appear on Canadian whisky store shelves. Hopefully it will one day soon.

Sláinte mhaith

2024 All Canadian Wine Championships

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / 2 Comments

The All Canadian Wine Championships (ACWC) were held earlier this month. It is open to all Canadian licensed wineries, cideries and meaderies and content must be grown and made in Canada. This year there were 995 entries submitted by 173 wineries.

The panel of judges consisted of wine writers, sommeliers, and professional wine judges from the Wine Judges of Ontario. There were 10 judges from Ontario, 2 from Alberta and 1 from each of Quebec and New Brunswick.

The 2024 trophy winners were as follows:

The Best Sparkling Wine of the Year was presented to British Columbia’s (BC) Bench 1775 Winery, for their 2020 Blanc de Blanc ($39.75 CDN).

The Best Red Wine of the Year was BC’s Sunrock Vineyard’s 2021 Shiraz ($40.24 CDN).

The Best White Wine of the Year was awarded to BC’s Van Westen Vineyards, for their 2022 Viscous ($27.40 CDN).

The Best Dessert Wine of the Year was Quebec’s Vignoble du Marathonien, for their 2021 Vin de glace ($50.00 CDN).

The Best Rosé Wine of the Year was awarded to yet another BC winery, Hester Creek Estate Winery, for their 2023 Rosé Noir ($32.19 CDN).

The Best Fruit Wine of the Year was presented to another BC winery, Maan Farms Winery, for their N/V Raspberry Dessert ($29.99 CDN).

The Best Cider of the Year was Nova Scotia’s Domaine de Grand Pré, for their N/V Vintage Sparkling Cider ($29.00 CDN).

The Best Mead of the Year was presented to Manitoba’s Shrugging Doctor Beverage Co, for their N/V Apple Cinnamon Mead ($18.47 CDN).

Double Gold, Gold, Silver and Bronze medals may be awarded in each category. Double Gold and Gold medals were presented to the following participants:

Sparkling Wine-Traditional Method

Gold

  • Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2021 Lush Sparkling Rosé – $57.80
  • Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2020 Blanc de Franc – $63.80
  • Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery, ON – N/V Brut – $44.80

Sparkling Wine–Charmat Method

Double Gold

  • Bella Terra Vineyards, ON – N/V Sparkling Rose – $24.95

Gold

  • Three Dog Winery, ON – 2023 Debut Sparkling – $27.80
  • Harbour Estates, ON – 2023 Sparkling Riesling – $25.00

Sparkling Wine–Frizzante Method

Double Gold

  • Planters Ridge Winery, NS – 2022 SEK – $22.43

Gold

  • Jost Vineyards, NS – N/V Luvo Sparkling White – $5.89

Chardonnay, Unoaked

Double Gold

  • Calamus Estate Winery, ON – 2023 Unoaked Chardonnay – $18.95

Gold

  • Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2023 Select Series Unoaked Chardonnay – $15.95

Chardonnay Under $35.00

Double Gold

  • Wending Home, ON – 2021 Chardonnay Estate Vineyards – $34.95

Gold

  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2022 Barrel Aged Chardonnay – $27.05
  • Solvero Wines, BC – 2022 Chardonnay – $34.60
  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2020 G. Marquis Chardonnay VQA – The Silver Line – $19.75

Chardonnay Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Nk’Mip Cellars BC – 2022 Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay – $41.39

Gold

  • Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2022 Premium Series Barrel Fermented Chardonnay – $49.95
  • SpearHead Winery, BC – 2022 Chardonnay Clone 95 – $41.40

Riesling Dry

Double Gold 

  • Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery, BC – 2023 Riesling Dry – $28.74

Gold

  • Broken Stone Winery, ON – 2023 Riesling – $21.75

Riesling Off Dry

Gold

  • Gaspereau Vineyards, NS – 2023 Riesling – $23.79
  • Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery, ON – 2020 Riesling Loved By Lu – $18.75

Sauvignon Blanc

Double Gold

  • Dirty Laundry Vineyard, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $25.29

Gold

  • River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $27.49
  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $27.60

Gewürztraminer

Double Gold

  • Wild Goose Vineyards, BC – 2023 Gewürztraminer – $19.99

Gold

  • Colchester Ridge Estate Winery, ON – 2022 Gewürztraminer – $20.75
  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Gewürztraminer – $21.80

Pinot Gris Style

Double Gold

  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Pinot Gris – $26.45

Gold

  • Hillside Winery & Bistro, BC – 2023 Unoaked Pinot Gris – $25.00
  • River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Gris – $27.49
  • Villa Romana Estate Winery, ON – 2023 Pinotino – $24.95

Pinot Grigio Style

Double Gold

  • Kismet Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Grigio – $26.44

Gold

  • Three Dog Winery, ON – 2023 Pinot Grigio – $19.75
  • Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2023 Okanagan Estate Pinot Grigio – $20.69

Viognier

Double Gold

  • Hester Creek Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Viognier – $27.59

Gold

  • Bordertown Vineyard & Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Viognier – $21.90

Other Single Vitis Vinifera Whites

Double Gold

  • Scorched Earth Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Noir Blanc – $22.95

Gold

  • Wild Goose Vineyards, BC – 2023 Pinot Blanc – $21.99
  • Bonamici Cellars Ltd., BC – 2022 Observatory Gruner Veltliner – $28.74

White Vitis Vinifera Blends

Double Gold

Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2022 White Mer’r’iym – $41.39

Gold

  • Hillside Winery & Bistro, BC – 2023 Chef’s Whites – $35.00
  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Valerie – $26.45
  • River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Splash – $26.34

Single White Hybrids

Double Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2023 Living Land Frontenac Gris – $25.29

Gold

  • Planters Ridge Winery, NS – 2022 L’Acadie – $18.52
  • Valley of the Springs, BC – 2023 Epicure – $25.30

White Hybrid Blends

Double Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2023 Hands Up White – $22.99

Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Dead End Skrewd – $25.00

Pet Nat

Double Gold

  • Bench 1775, BC – 2022 Blanc de Blanc Ancestral – $39.99

Gold

  • Trail Estate Winery, ON – 2022 White Pét Nat – $36.00

Orange Wines

Double Gold

  • Byland Estate Winery, ON – 2021 Skin Fermented White Chardonnay – $28.00

Gold

  • Last House Vineyard, ON – 2021 Electrum – $29.00

Rosés Dry

Gold

  • Creekside Estate Winery Ltd., ON – 2023 Rosé – $15.95
  • Chaberton Estate WInery, BC – 2023 La Fleur de Chaberton – $27.55
  • Lakeview Wine Co., ON – N/V 20 Bees Rosé – $13.95

Rosés Off Dry

Double Gold

  • Gaspereau Vineyards, NS – 2022 Rosé – $23.79

Gold

  • Richibucto River Wine Estate, NB – 2020 Camrose – $16.63
  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Chaberton Pink – $21.80
  • Three Sisters Winery, BC – 2023 Rosé – $25.00

Cabernet Sauvignon Under $35

Double Gold

  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon – $31.00

Gold

  • Paglione Estate Winery, ON – 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – $21.95

Cabernet Sauvignon Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Colio Estate Wines, ON – 2020 Small Lot Series Cabernet Sauvignon – $40.00

Gold

  • Kismet Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – $68.99

Merlot Under $35

Double Gold

  • Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery, BC – 2020 Merlot – $33.34

Gold

  • Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2021 Winemaker’s Merlot – $34.49
  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2020 Merlot – $32.20

Merlot Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Wesbert Winery, BC – 2021 Merlot – $45.94

Gold

  • Priest Creek Family Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Merlot – $52.90
  • De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2021 Merlot – $59.80

Pinot Noir Under $35

Double Gold

  • The Grange of Prince Edward, ON – 2022 County Pinot Noir – $34.00

Gold

  • Cherry Point Estate Wines, BC – 2022 Pinot Noir – $32.90
  • Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2022 Okanagan Estate Pinot Noir – $25.29

Pinot Noir Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Wending Home, ON – 2020 “Up Above” Pinot Noir – $42.95

Gold

  • Solvero Wines, BC – 2020 Pinot Noir – $40.35
  • SpearHead Winery, BC – 2022 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley – $41.40

Cabernet Franc Under $35

Double Gold

  • Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2022 Okanagan Estate Cabernet Franc – $29.89

Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Living Land Cabernet Franc – $31.04
  • Three Sisters Winery, BC – 2022 Cabernet Franc – $30.00

Cabernet Franc Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Watchful Eye Winery, ON – 2021 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $41.95

Gold

  • Privato Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2022 Cabernet Franc – $40.24
  • Bordertown Vineyard & Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $49.90

Bordeaux Blends Under $35

Double Gold

  • Bench 1775, BC – 2021 Groove –  $22.75

Gold

  • Clos du Soleil Winery, BC – 2021 Celestiale – $34.39
  • Sunrock, BC – 2020 Red Meritage – $34.49
  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Meritage Gran Riserva -$ 31.95

Bordeaux Blends Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Moraine Winery, BC – 2021 Meritage – $42.00

Gold

  • Vanessa Vineyard Estate Winery Inc., BC – 2019 Right Bank – $57.49
  • Colio Estate Wines, ON – 2020 Small Lot Series Meritage – $40.00
  • Hainle Vyds Estate Winery Ltd., BC – 2022 Hainle’s Red Cuvee – $40.24

Syrah/Shiraz Under $35

Double Gold

  • Oxley Estate Winery, ON – 2020 Syrah Reserve – $32.95

Gold

  • Terralux Estate Winery, BC – 2018 Syrah – $34.99

Syrah/Shiraz Over $35.00

Gold

  • Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2020 Qwam Qwmt Syrah – $49.44
  • Moon Curser Vineyards, BC – 2022 Syrah – $37.94

Single Red Hybrids

Double Gold

  • Potter Settlement Artisan Winery, ON – 2020 Frontenac Rouge – $35.00

Gold

  • Front Road Cellars, ON – 2022 Marquette Canadian Oak – $23.95
  • Magnetic Hill Winery, NB – 2023 Terroir Generator TP 1-1-12 – $30.00

Red Hybrid Blends

Double Gold

  • Jost Vineyards, NS – N/V Luvo Simply Red – $5.89   

Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Hands Up Red – $25.29
  • De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2023 De Simone Red – $24.80

Other Single Red Vitis Vinifera

Double Gold

  • Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2022 King’s Ransom Touriga Nacional – $74.75

Gold

  • Bonamici Cellars Ltd., BC – 2022 Sangiovese – $36.80

Other Red Vitis Vinifera Blends

Double Gold

  • Hester Creek Estate Winery, BC – 2022 GSM – $39.19

Gold

  • Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2023 Select Series Cabernet – $15.95
  • Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2021 Winemaker’s Talon – $37.99

Marechal Foch

Double Gold

  • Alderlea Vineyards,BC – 2022 Clarinet – $27.60

Gold

  • Skimmerhorn Winery, BC – 2022 Estate Reserve Foch – $31.00

Malbec

Double Gold

  • Nostalgia Wines Inc., BC – 2020 Malbec – $42.00

Gold

  • Moon Curser Vineyards, BC – 2022 Malbec – $43.69

Gamay

Double Gold

Deep Roots Winery, BC – 2022 Reserve Gamay – $34.90

Gold

  • Deep Roots Winery, BC – 2022 Gamay – $25.90
  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Living Land Gamay – $33.34

Appassimento Style

Double Gold

  • De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2019 Stallion – $154.80              

Gold

  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2020 Enotrium Gran Riserva – $59.75

FRUIT WINES

Soft Fruit Dry

Double Gold

  • Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – 2015 Black Currant – $30.00

Gold

  • Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – N/V Red Raspberry & Red Currant – $20.00

Soft Fruit Off-Dry

Double Gold

  • Maan Farms Winery, BC – 2022 Raspberry Table – $23.08

Gold

  • Maan Farms Winery, BC – 2023 Strawberry Rhubarb – $22.51
  • Applewood Farm Winery, ON – 2021 Trio – $18.00

Soft Fruit Dessert

Gold

  • Maan Farms Winery, BC – N/V Blackberry Dessert – $29.99

Tree Fruit Dry

Double Gold

  • Muskoka Lakes Winery, ON – 2022 Georgian Bay Rose – $18.75

Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Speachless White Peach – $22.00

Tree Fruit Off Dry

Double Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Cherysh Cherry Rose – $22.00

Gold

  • Shrugging Doctor Beverage Co., MB – 2022 Carmine Jewel Cherry Wine – $21.99

Tree Fruit Dessert

Double Gold

  • Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – 2019 Apple – $20.00

Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Pomme Desiree Iced Apple – $28.00

Fruit Sparkling

Double Gold

  • Krause Berry Farms and Estate Winery, BC – N/V Strawberry Sparkling – $27.00

Gold

  • Coopérative Forestière du Nord Ouest Ltée., NB – N/V Noaska Jazzy Sparkling Red –  $18.90

Fruit Fortifieds

Double Gold

  • La Vallée de la Framboise Inc., QC – N/V Douce Anna – $20.00

Gold

  • La Vallée de la Framboise Inc., QC – N/V Le Fabuleux – $20.00

DESSERT WINES

Late Harvests

Double Gold

  • Vignoble du Marathonien, QC – 2021 Vendange tardive sélective – $28.00

Gold

  • Bench 1775, BC – 2022 Paradise Ranch Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc Semillon – $29.75

White Icewines (Riesling, Vidal, Other)

Gold

  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Riesling Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition  – $39.95
  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2021 Vidal Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition –       $34.75

Red Icewines

Double Gold

  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Cabernet Franc Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition – $44.95

Gold

  • Lakeview Wine Co., ON – 2022 Lakeview Wine Co. Cabernet Franc Icewine – $60.00

Grape Fortified

Double Gold

  • Moraine Winery, BC – 2021 O’Port – $45.00

Gold    

  • Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2017 The Crown – $45.99

The complete listing of this year’s results is available from the All Canadian Wine Championships website at https://allcanadianwinechampionships.com/acwc-2024-results

Sláinte mhaith

Info Seminar or Infomercial?

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An American wine club operator from Napa Valley, California had arranged for a group of his members to take part on our recent river cruise aboard the Scenic Sapphire, through the Burgundy and Rhône wine regions. The group excursion included the CEO of Cuvaison Estate Wines of Napa, California, Dan Zepponi.

While sailing down the Rhône River between ports, Zepponi treated the passengers to two seminars; the first was an exploration of Chardonnay wine. The presentation included tastings of two different Chardonnays from Cuvaison which were compared to two French Chardonnays that are regularly served as part of dinner service on the ship.

The tastings were conducted as a head-to-head comparison. First, his unoaked Methibiton Chardonnay, was compared to an unnamed, unoaked French wine. The second comparison was between two oaked Chardonnays, Coeurtina from his winery against a second unidentified French.

In each comparison I found the flavours of the Napa wines to be extremely close to the French, though to me the French was slightly more mellow and smoother. The Cuvaison wines are priced at $70 US each and are only available directly from the winery.  In comparison, the ships wines would have an equivalent price of approximately $15 – $20 US per bottle.

During the second seminar Zepponi discussed micro-lots as they pertain to the wine industry. When a winery wants to produce a type of wine but does not have enough of the varietal in their own vineyard they may purchase the varietal from another grape grower.   The purchased grapes are then used to make a specific wine exclusively from that purchased micro-lot. This allows the winemaker to better control the grapes being used and the wine produced, in a similar manner that would be done if the vintner was using their own estate grown grapes.

Two taste comparisons were conducted, the first was with Cuvaison’s 2022 En Cigar Chardonnay Blanc and the ship’s undisclosed Sauvignon Blanc house wine. The second comparison was conducted using their 2022 Fiddlestix Pinot Noir and an undescribed French Pinot Noir. I favoured the French Sauvignon Blanc over the Cuvaison but did find Cuvaison’s Pinot to be smoother and less fresh that the French Pinot. Once again though, the price between the American and French wines was significantly different – $70 US for both Cuvaison’s versus under $20 US for the French wines.

Unfortunately, the two seminars lacked substance and honesty as they were actually marketing presentations for Cuvaison wines. Zepponi would have had more credibility in my eyes if he had presented his talks as being an introduction to Cuvaison wines. There was no value in conducting taste comparisons with wines that are not even identified by name, let alone any information about where or how the wines were produced. He should have simply talked about how his wines are produced.

Based on information presented about the various Cuvaison wines, they are producing decent wines at a reasonable price point. However, the feeble attempt at conducting product comparisons was an insult to the intelligence of the ship’s passengers.

Sláinte mhaith

The Châteauneuf-du-Pape District of France

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While on a river cruise that was part of my recent trip to France, I overheard someone say that Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a famous French winery. Well, that is not exactly true. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a French Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) located around the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Rhône wine region in southeastern France. It is one of the most renowned appellations of the southern part in the Rhône Valley, and its vineyards are located around Châteauneuf-du-Pape and in the neighboring villages of Bédarrides, Courthézon and Sorgues, between Avignon and Orange. The region covers more than 3,200 hectares or 32 square kilometres and produces over 110,000 hectolitres of wine each year.

The primary grape grown in the district is Grenache, but Cinsault, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Muscadine, Syrah, Terret noir, Vaccarèse, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette blanche, Picardan, Roussanne, and Picpoul are also cultivated.

The terroir consists of white limestone. The stones absorb the heat of the sun and transfers it to the roots of the vines. The stones also help with allowing rain to penetrate the roots. This is critical since temperatures rise to about 45 degrees Celsius in the summer and irrigation is not permitted.

The harvest takes place from late August to early September. There are 323 vineyards in the district, all of which are family operated companies. Given the conditions, production yields are low and this is reflected in the price at your local wine store. However, the higher cost does not deter buyers as some wineries are selling their wines two years in advance.

Selections at Maison Bouachon

I visited Maison Bouachon winery, which has been in operation since 1898. The vines on the estate generally range from 80 to 100 years in age. Wine production is completed following the methods and rules established by the AOC.

While there I sampled three of their wines, 2023 Côtes du Rhône white, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021 and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Special Edition. My personal favourite was the Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021, which is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre grapes. I purchased a bottle which was later enjoyed by my wife and me. Unfortunately, like so many of the French wineries, Maison Bouachon wines are not available outside of France. Such a pity.

Sláinte mhaith

The Beaujolais Wine District

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My wife and I recently returned from an excursion to France, which included exploration of several wine regions including the Beaujolais district of Burgundy. Beaujolais is a French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) wine, generally made from Gamay grapes.  The grapes are thin skinned and are low in tannins.

The soil (terroir) consists of granite, schist, clay and sandstone. The vines are pruned using the goblet method, which is mainly practiced in the Mediterranean regions because having a foot close to the ground shelters the vine from the wind and the falling vegetation protects the grapes from the sun. This method of pruning only allows 3 to 5 branches to be kept on the vine. The branches end with a spur of 3 or 4 buds.

Goblet pruning is a drought-resistant and berry-protected method but prohibits the use of mechanized harvesting methods. Economically, the reduction in yields can be significant. The cost of production can be high due to an increased need for labour and the drop in production.

Climate change has been presenting a variety of challenges during recent years. Netting has had to be installed to protect the grapes from summertime hailstorms that have been regularly occurring since 2007. Very wet spring seasons, like this year, are threatening to delay the start of the growing season, thus reducing the yield potential and increasing the risk of mold on the vines.

The wines produced in the Beaujolais district include Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, cru Beaujolais and Beaujolais Nouveau. The region also produces a small amount of Chardonnay (about 4%) but none of that wine is sold outside of France.

Isabelle Brossard

We visited Château de Pravins, a 12th century winery. The current owners acquired the winery in 1941. The purchaser was Joseph Mathieu, whose descendant, Isabelle Brossard, operates the winery today. It is a biodynamic winery (uses organic processes) that expands across 26 hectares. The grapes are still crushed by feet, but pipes and pumps are also now used. One kilo of grapes is required to produce a single bottle of wine.  The AOC limits the Beaujolais wineries from producing any more than 6,000 litres of wine per hectare and allows only cement vats to be used in the production process.

While there we sampled three red wines, l’argile ardente No 2, les moraines, and l’argile ardente. I found all tree wines to be as equally as nice.

Based on the slow soggy start to the 2024 growing season, don’t be surprised if the 2024 vintage of Beaujolais wine is limited and thus more expensive than some previous years.

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Regenerative Agriculture

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Regenerative agriculture is not just a trendy environmental buzzword intended to tug on your emotional “save the planet” heartstrings; it is an ancient form of agriculture that is making its way back into mainstream farming.  It’s successful, not only in producing and sustaining quality wine grapes, but it’s also successful in combating climate change, the effects of drought and creating a healthy environment.

Photo credit: daily.sevenfifty.com

Regenerative wine farming means farming grapes in a way that regenerates soil health. It is a set of organic, ecologically driven farming practices that improve the ecosystem by working in harmony with nature. Farming this way increases biodiversity, restores soil and plant microbiome and eliminates the need to introduce toxic pesticides, herbicides and genetically modified organisms (GMOs) into the soil, waters and grapevines.

Equally important are the broader environmental benefits. Regenerative agriculture has the potential to help reverse climate change by capturing carbon in the soil and removing it from the atmosphere.

Decades of extractive farming methods have taken their toll on the land. While sustainability efforts aim to maintain living systems to prevent further degradation, regenerative viticulture will revitalise the terroir, the wines and our bodies. By prioritizing soil health and biodiversity, regenerative viticulture holds the potential to transform the industry and bring it into alignment with a more complete and sustainable vision for the future.

With the focus on living soil, regenerative viticulture builds more robust ecosystems that are less susceptible to climate change and biodiversity loss. Adopting management practices for living soil can increase soil organic matter and reduce carbon from the air, a crucial component of the United Nations Climate Change Conference’s plan to reduce global carbon emissions.

Regenerative viticulture also promotes water percolation and retention and it also better ensures water supply for communities. The overall goal is to guarantee food security, nutrition and community health and well-being, making it a vital component of a sustainable future.

Regenerative farming practices foster a robust ecosystem for the grape vines to prosper naturally, in turn producing fruit that is truly expressive of its surroundings, and wines with enhanced minerality and other nuances that come from healthy, site-specific soil without chemical manipulation. The taste of the wines is distinctly delicious with terroir-driven flavours.

There are a number of components to regenerative viticulture.  The first is to plant a variety of cover crops. In traditional agriculture the soil is tilled. This allows for the most economical farming, but it is not good for the soil as it destroys the soil’s natural structure and causes soil erosion, water runoff and poor water infiltration. By introducing a variety of cover crops to the vineyard, bees and other pollinators will have a welcoming habitat. These plants will smother out undesirable weeds and increase water retention in the soil while reducing erosion and reducing the need for pesticides. Cover crops will improve the level of soil nutrients and provide the biodiversity essential for a healthy ecosystem.

The introduction of sheep, chickens, geese and ducks to roam the vineyards will reduce pests and weeds, as well as provide nutrient-rich manure to the soil. This results in improved soil health and further eliminates the need for pesticides.

Viticulture is at a critical juncture. Through its commitment to ecosystem services and human health, viticulture is embracing a systemic approach to support farmers in delivering regenerative agriculture. However, in order to maximize its potential, there must be a paradigm shift that will contribute to solving the biodiversity and climate crises.

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World’s Oldest Scotch Distillery

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The Glenturret is Scotland’s oldest working distillery, being officially established in 1763. The distillery is located in The Hosh, Crieff, Perthshire. This Highland distillery is one of the smallest in Scotland.

Photo credit: theglenturret.com

Over the decades Glenturret has been visited by writers and poets (including Robert Burns), Prime Ministers and Princes, including the present Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. The Glenturret brings together the hard-won wisdom of generations of distillers.

In 2019, the French-based crystal house, Lalique, purchased a controlling interest in The Glenturret. Since then Lalique has taken a lead in the product design.

In February 2022, Glenturret became the world’s first Michelin Star whisky distillery. That same year it also announced the release of its oldest single malt to date; a 50-year-old expression packaged in a specially designed Lalique crystal decanter. Only 150 bottles of the sherry cask-matured whisky were available for sale at a price of £40,000 each.

The restaurant was launched in 2021 with the support of their French owners and crystal house, Lalique. Their Executive Sommelier provides an extensive international wine list to complement the restaurant’s menus, comprising over 400 bins. The Glenturret staff are passionate about taste and flavour profiles of both their whiskies and in their food.

Lalique’s portfolio also includes two Michelin-starred restaurants, Villa René Lalique in Alsace, and Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, in the region of Bordeaux.

Glenturret produces a series of both peated and unpeated whiskies. Unfortunately, none of which are available through the LCBO. However, there are a couple of Canadian websites where a limited variety of Glenturret products may be obtained.

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Countries with The Worst Wine Trade Deficits

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According to the most recent statistics, the following countries have the highest negative net exports for wine. Net exports are defined as the value of a country’s total exports minus the value of its total imports. Thus, the statistics below present the deficit between the value of each country’s wine import purchases and its wine exports (in U.S. dollars).

Photo credit: bkwine.com
  1. United States: -$6.2 billion
  2. United Kingdom: -$4.4 billion
  3. Canada: -$2.2 billion
  4. Japan: -$1.9 billion
  5. Germany: -$1.8 billion
  6. China: -$1.4 billion
  7. Switzerland: -$1.2 billion
  8. Netherlands: -$1 billion
  9. Russia: -$882.3 million
  10. Sweden: -$793.9 million
  11. Belgium: -$750.2 million
  12. Hong Kong: -$727.8 million
  13. South Korea: -$581.1 million
  14. Denmark: -$580.1 million
  15. Norway: -$499.4 million

The combined North American deficit of $8.4 billion in international wine trade has a strong demand for both Old World and New World brands. In turn, this negative cashflow highlights North America’s strong competitive disadvantage for wine sales but also indicates opportunities for other wine-supplying countries to contribute toward satisfying North America’s consumer thirst and wide-ranging tastes for different types of wines.

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