During a recent trip to the maritime provinces of Canada, I made a point of seeking out local wines to try. The first I came across while in St. Andrews by the Sea, New Brunswick; the second I found in North Rustico, Prince Edward Island and two while in Nova Scotia.
The first wine my wife and I tried was a 2019 Marquette from the Magnetic Hill Winery of Moncton, New Brunswick. It was a light bodied red wine similar to a Pinot Noir. It had aromas of cherries, blackcurrants and blackberries. The wine was a pleasure to drink and reasonably priced at $20.00 CDN.
The Marquette varietal is the cousin of the Frontenac varietal, which is a well-known French North American hybrid, and a descendant of Pinot Noir. This wine pairs well with pub foods such as cheeseburgers, bangers (sausages) and mash and chili con carne.
The second wine we tried was a $21.99 CDN Gamay from Matos Winery & Vineyards of St. Catherines, PEI. Until then I was not aware that there is a winery on PEI.
Matos Winery & Vineyards is a family-owned and run business that was initiated in 2007. They utilize the French concept of terroir whereby they found a location where the combination of soil, slope, sun exposure and the peculiar weather patterns allow certain grape varieties to thrive. They consulted with European vintners who visited PEI to provide their skill and knowledge.
Their Gamay has won a bronze medal at the National Wine Awards in 2016, 2014, 2012 and silver in 2011.
The first wine from Nova Scotia that we tried was the 2022 Baco Noir from Blomidon Estate Winery, of the Annapolis Valley, near Canning.
The 2022 Baco Noir has a nose of bright berry fruit accentuated by vanilla and notes of spice. Unfortunately for us, we found the wine to be slightly harsh and not quite as smooth and mellow as we have become accustomed to for Baco Noir. The price of this wine is $23.00 CDN.
Given the structure of this wine it would be best suited for pairing with barbecued beef or pork.
Blomidon Estate produces 100% Nova Scotia grown grapes and wines. Over the years they have earned several national and international awards.
The 2nd wine from Nova Scotia we experienced was Founders’ Red from Jost Winery, which is made from a blend of Leon Millot and Marechal Foch grapes. We experienced this wine during a quiet afternoon at our B&B outside of Cap-Pelé, New Brunswick. Like the day, this wine was very smooth and mellow. It had wonderful fruit flavours and was well worth the $17.19 CDN we paid for it.
Founders’ Red is a well-balanced blend of Nova Scotian-grown grapes with deep colour and intensity. This wine pairs well with barbequed meats and roasted pork.
Here is what the organizers and judges were seeing, hearing and thinking at this year’s WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada (NWAC). Their narrative has been separated by each judging category and presented below.
Photo credit: winealign.com
Sparkling Wine
While global wine consumption has decreased over the past two years. Sparkling wine, except for costly Champagne, has progressed upwards. In Canada, the Sparkling category burst during the pandemic, especially with accessible and affordable selections. The quality of Canadian sparkling wine continues to improve.
Red Blends
Red blends are abundant in both British Columbia and Ontario, making it the second largest category at the National Wine Awards. There is a variety of styles and grape varieties.
Bordeaux blends and Rhone blends continue to be important, but winemakers are increasingly evolving beyond the traditional French classic style. The next frontier is beginning to appear where blends consisting of Malbec, Carménère and Syrah are part of a new wave of Okanagan red blends.
White Blends
Winemakers continually mix and match with several varietal combinations. There are many permutations made with traditional varietals, as well as hybrid grapes.
There are no firm rules other than those set out by VQA which says that all the grapes in a labeled bottle must come from the province, an appellation and sub-appellation. Beyond this, the choices are endless, allowing white blends to vary from the traditional to the eclectic. Concepts include the Bordeaux combination of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, Rhône blends that may include Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, but also Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc, Picpoul and Ugni Blanc. This year, British Columbia has continued to set the trends for blending and styles.
Rosé
There is a great deal of flexibility with respect to producing Rosé wine. Extraction levels and pigmentation can vary, many red or combination of red and white grape varietals can be used and there are no rules overseeing sweetness levels or oak aging.
Most Rosés are not meant for extended aging and are often best consumed in the year in which they are made. In Canada, most Rosés are bottled from March to June and make it to the stores between April and July.
Pinot Gris/Grigio
This white wine grape is a mutation clone of the black Pinot Noir grape. The skin colour varies greatly, and the wines produced from Pinot Gris also vary in hue from palest yellow to deep golden to blushing salmon. Pinot Gris also goes by its Italian name, Pinot Grigio. Wines made in the fresh, crisp and unoaked style of Italy’s Veneto region are called Grigio, while those in a richer, riper version go by Gris.
Orange
Orange wines are skiin contact white wines. There is no rule as to the length of the contact period or the grape varietals used. These wines range widely in colour and style.
Niagara’s popular Vidal grape responded well to skin contact, bringing texture and complexity to its tropical fruit profile. However, aromatic Gewürztraminer, with its subtly oily mouthfeel and subtle tannic framework, also showed well.
Gamay
Things change each year as there are new entries from newer wineries making Gamay. Some things also remain the same as many long-time advocates and committed Gamay producers continue to make excellent wines.
Pinot Noir
No other grape causes more of a stir. For many, there is no other grape variety. Pinot Noir has found enormous global success and Canadian soils are largely responsible for that. From agile, transparent, high-toned, red berry charmers to darker, seriously ripe and often tannic iterations, Pinot Noir succeeds with harmony and balance.
Chardonnay
This is always one of the largest categories in the competition. Chardonnay always leads or equals the greatest number of medals from platinum to bronze. Prices ranged from $87 for the most expensive medal winner to $11.95 for the least costly.
While the most expensive wine was not a platinum winner, there is a correlation between price and medal earned, establishing that top quality wine sells for more money. The average price for the platinum winners came in at just over $45, $40 for gold, $39 for silver and $33 for Bronze.
Malbec and other Red Single Varieties
Malbec represented 18 of the 41 medal winners in this category and accounted for 7 of 8 of the gold medals. It accounted for just 1.4% of entries in the competition but earned 4.1% of all gold medals.
This trend is almost entirely driven by British Columbia. There is something special about Okanagan Malbec. Much like Syrah, it does well up and down the valley.
Other White Single Varieties
Chardonnay and Riesling are often singled out as the signature grapes when it comes to top quality Canadian white wine. There are many other white varieties producing spectacular results including Grüner Veltliner wines from British Columbia.
Chenin Blanc is another consistent performer in BC and Ontario, making vibrant, fruit- forward wines.
Sleek, elegant Sémillon wines are also cropping up with increased frequency from coast to coast, as single variety wines and in classic Sauvignon blends.
Pinot Blanc proved its merit for good value, easy drinking white wine.
Gewürztraminer and Viognier
Viognier and Gewürztraminer remain minor varieties on the Canadian wine scene. Both grapes are particularly unreliable in Ontario, where Gewürztraminer accounted for just 2% of total production in 2023. Viognier is so rare that it is in the “other” category in the VQA’s annual report. In B.C. Gewürztraminer places a respectable 4th among white varieties in 2023, behind Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling. Viognier sits in ninth position alongside other Rhône varieties suitable to the West Coast’s unique conditions.
Sauvignon Blanc
At this year’s competition, Sauvignon Blanc took great strides and gained increased favour from judges and wine lovers. There were 32 medals awarded, with 20 going to Ontario and 12 to British Columbia. Of impressive interest is the average price of the 16 Silver Medal winners. These are wines that scored 90 points with an average cost of $23.40.
Syrah
“Syrah” above “Shiraz” is the key style in Canada. Reflective of a French Rhône style “Syrah”, as opposed to “Shiraz”, wines labelled as such tend to be distinctively peppery, with more sharp tannins, lower alcohol and exhibit more freshness than “Shiraz”. Yet in Canada, there is no enforcement over the use of these terms. Vintage variation and place do play a deterministic role, but the style of Syrah in Canada is heavily influenced by winegrowing and winemaking decisions that vary from producer to producer.
Ontario can produce excellent Syrah, but the category has forever been dominated by British Columbia.
Riesling
Canada has many great and quality examples of Riesling. It is a variety that truly expresses the place where it is grown. Riesling also counts among some of Canada’s oldest planted vinifera varieties, with plantings dating back to the mid 1970’s and early 1980’s in both Niagara and the Okanagan Valley.
Icewine & Late Harvest
Icewine, is the most important wine export. Now more than ever, due to erratic weather patterns, production is being threatened. Since the start of Icewine production in the 1970’s, a harvest has never been missed despite coming close a few times because of a mild winter in Ontario.
VQA regulations require the grapes to be naturally frozen on the vine, harvested, and pressed while the air temperature remains at or below -8 degrees Celsius. Recurrent periods of freezing and thawing can cause grapes to split, increasing unpredictable acidity in the wine. Production is a physically demanding task for both for the vines, that must bear their fruit into the cold of winter, as well as for the winemaker, who often harvests on the coldest of winter nights.
Cabernet Sauvignon
The number of gold medals has dropped from 13 in 2022 to 10 in 2023 to 7 this year. Despite the results, it is the category that has the most potential.
Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely planted grape in the world, but such is not the case in Canada. It is the third most planted red variety in British Columbia, with 7.7% of total grapes grown. In Ontario, Cabernet Sauvignon represents only 5.9% of the grape harvest. There’s been a consistent downward trend, as a percentage of tonnage, over the last five years.
Cabernet Franc
Ontario has historically had a slight edge over the Okanagan Valley, given Ontario’s generally cooler and wetter climate, which suits the lighter, aromatic style that the judges tend to favour. However, the margin of difference has always been slim.
This year Ontario captured 38 out of 53 medals in total. However, British Columbia’s representation was impacted by the wildfires that severely impacted the Okanagan Valley in 2021, which resulted in smoke-tainted wines from some parts of the valley. Since these wineries did not submit any smoke-tainted wines, the number of submissions from B.C. was reduced significantly.
Merlot
Merlot remains the number one red planted grape in British Columbia.
There you have it; and that’s a wrap on the 2024 National Wine Awards.
The WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada (NWAC) is the country’s largest competition, involving only 100 percent Canadian-grown and produced wines. The judging involves a select group of Canadian wine writers, educators, sommeliers and two international judges who spend a week assessing some 2000 wines and ciders. This year’s competition took place near Niagara Falls, Ontario.
Double Honour
The Winery of the Year and Small Winery of the Year is Kelowna British Columbia’s SpearHead Winery. In addition to the twin honours this year, they also had unprecedented success in an individual category (Pinot Noir), winning a total of seven medals for their Pinots, including three platinum, one gold, three silvers and a bronze. In total they earned a total of twelve medals.
Top 10 Wineries
Six of the top ten wineries this year are from British Columbia, with the remaining four from Ontario. The top ten are:
SpearHead Winery, British Columbia
Meyer Family Vineyards, British Columbia
Henry of Pelham, Ontario
Black Hills Estate Winery, British Columbia
Thirty Bench Wine Makers, Ontario
Quails’ Gate Estate Winery, British Columbia
Nostalgia Wines, British Columbia
Peller Estates Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario
Lake Breeze Vineyards, British Columbia
Vieni Estates, Ontario
The Top 10 Small Wineries
Seven of the top ten small wineries are from British Columbia, with the remainder from Ontario. The top ten are:
SpearHead Winery, British Columbia
Meyer Family Vineyards, British Columbia
Nostalgia Wines, British Columbia
Lake Breeze Vineyards, British Columbia
The Organized Crime Winery, Ontario
Corcelettes Estate Winery, British Columbia
Black Bank Hill, Ontario
Kismet Estate Winery, British Columbia
Fort Berens Estate Winery, British Columbia
Lailey Winery, Ontario
Regional Top 10 Winners
British Columbia
SpearHead Winery
Meyer Family Vineyards
Black Hills Estate Winery
Quails’ Gate Estate Winery
Nostalgia Wines
Lake Breeze Vineyards
Corcelettes Estate Winery
Nk’Mip Cellars
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery
Kismet Estate Winery
Ontario
Henry of Pelham
Thirty Bench Wine Makers
Peller Estates Niagara-on-the-Lake
Vieni Estates
The Organized Crime Winery
Black Bank Hill
Two Sisters Vineyards
Lailey Winery
Hidden Bench Estate Winery
Marynissen Estates
Platinum and Gold Medal Winners
Only 1% of the wines entered earn a Platinum Medal. This year, 18 out of 1,800 wines received this recognition. Every Platinum winner has passed through a minimum of two tastings and a review by a minimum of five judges. These wines must be put forward by at least three judges in the first round and re-considered by at least five judges in the second round.
Earning a Platinum Medal greatly increases a winery’s performance score based on the mathematical degree of difficulty in reaching Platinum. This helps to decide the Winery of the Year and the Top 25 list.
Platinum and Gold medals were awarded in the following categories, presented alphabetically below:
Cabernet Franc
Platinum Medal
Black Bank Hill 2020 Cabernet Franc, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Vieni Estates 2022 Cabernet Franc, Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Gold Medal
Bordertown 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Domaine Queylus 2022 Cabernet Franc Réserve du Domaine, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
The All Canadian Wine Championships (ACWC) were held earlier this month. It is open to all Canadian licensed wineries, cideries and meaderies and content must be grown and made in Canada. This year there were 995 entries submitted by 173 wineries.
The panel of judges consisted of wine writers, sommeliers, and professional wine judges from the Wine Judges of Ontario. There were 10 judges from Ontario, 2 from Alberta and 1 from each of Quebec and New Brunswick.
The 2024 trophy winners were as follows:
The Best Sparkling Wine of the Year was presented to British Columbia’s (BC) Bench 1775 Winery, for their 2020 Blanc de Blanc ($39.75 CDN).
The Best Red Wine of the Year was BC’s Sunrock Vineyard’s 2021 Shiraz ($40.24 CDN).
The Best White Wine of the Year was awarded to BC’s Van Westen Vineyards, for their 2022 Viscous ($27.40 CDN).
The Best Dessert Wine of the Year was Quebec’s Vignoble du Marathonien, for their 2021 Vin de glace ($50.00 CDN).
The Best Rosé Wine of the Year was awarded to yet another BC winery, Hester Creek Estate Winery, for their 2023 Rosé Noir ($32.19 CDN).
The Best Fruit Wine of the Year was presented to another BC winery, Maan Farms Winery, for their N/V Raspberry Dessert ($29.99 CDN).
The Best Cider of the Year was Nova Scotia’s Domaine de Grand Pré, for their N/V Vintage Sparkling Cider ($29.00 CDN).
The Best Mead of the Year was presented to Manitoba’s Shrugging Doctor Beverage Co, for their N/V Apple Cinnamon Mead ($18.47 CDN).
Double Gold, Gold, Silver and Bronze medals may be awarded in each category. Double Gold and Gold medals were presented to the following participants:
Sparkling Wine-Traditional Method
Gold
Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2021 Lush Sparkling Rosé – $57.80
Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2020 Blanc de Franc – $63.80
Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery, ON – N/V Brut – $44.80
Sparkling Wine–Charmat Method
Double Gold
Bella Terra Vineyards, ON – N/V Sparkling Rose – $24.95
Gold
Three Dog Winery, ON – 2023 Debut Sparkling – $27.80
Harbour Estates, ON – 2023 Sparkling Riesling – $25.00
Sparkling Wine–Frizzante Method
Double Gold
Planters Ridge Winery, NS – 2022 SEK – $22.43
Gold
Jost Vineyards, NS – N/V Luvo Sparkling White – $5.89
Chardonnay, Unoaked
Double Gold
Calamus Estate Winery, ON – 2023 Unoaked Chardonnay – $18.95
Gold
Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2023 Select Series Unoaked Chardonnay – $15.95
Chardonnay Under $35.00
Double Gold
Wending Home, ON – 2021 Chardonnay Estate Vineyards – $34.95
The name Arterra Wines has come up in discussion in a couple of my blog posts in the past regarding their acquisitions within the wine industry. So, it seems to be a good time to investigate and find out more about Arterra Wines.
According to the Arterra Wines Canada website, their mission is, “To build wine brands people love”. Their origins date back to 1874 when the Niagara Falls Wine Company was founded. In 1994 they became known as Vincor International. In 2006, Vincor was acquired by Constellation Brands, a U.S.-based company that is both a leading international producer and marketer of beer, wine and spirits. Finally, in 2016, the Canadian branch of Constellation Brands was acquired by the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan and became Arterra Wines Canada.
With many iconic and recognized wine brands, Arterra is developing and expanding their wine portfolio to provide Canadians from coast-to-coast with the opportunity to enjoy and experience wines made both in Canada and from renowned wine-making regions around the world.
Arterra owns and operates Wine Rack retail stores in Ontario, as well as sells wine kits and products for winemaking at RJS Craft Winemaking.
Here is the timeline of important events that have taken place throughout the life of Arterra Wines:
1874
Niagara Falls Wine Company was founded.
1911
Niagara Falls Wine Company renamed T.G. Bright & Co. Limited.
1975
Inniskillin is given the first Canadian winery license since 1929 in Ontario, making it the first estate winery in Canada.
Don Triggs and Alan Jackson, with a group of employees and investors, purchase Cartier Wines from John Labatt Limited.
1992
Cartier Wines acquires Inniskillin.
1993
Jackson-Triggs brand launches.
1994
T.G. Bright & Co. changes its name to become Vincor International Inc.
2000
Acquisition of Sumac Ridge, one of B.C.’s first wineries, and See Ya Later Ranch (formerly Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards) in the Okanagan, B.C.
2001
NK’Mip Cellars Inc. in B.C. becomes first Aboriginal winery thanks to the joint venture with Osoyoos Indian Band and Vincor International.
Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery opens.
2003
Acquisition of Kim Crawford Wines of Auckland, New Zealand.
2005
Naked Grape brand launches.
2006
Vincor International is acquired by Constellation Brands.
2009
Open Wine brand launches in Ontario (and later in B.C. in 2011).
2012
Vincor International starts operating under the Constellation Brands name.
2013
Bodacious brand wine launches.
2016
Constellation Brands is acquired by the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan.
2017
The name is changed to Arterra Wines Canada.
2019
Acquisition of Culmina Family Estate Winery in B.C.s Okanagan Valley.
After stopping production in 2016, Jordan, Ontario’s Le Clos Jordanne wines were re-established.
2020
Acquisition of Sandbanks Winery, Prince Edward County, Ontario (see March 8, 2020 post, The Shifting of Sandbanks).
Acquisition of Tom Gore Vineyards and the trademark rights to Paso Creek, Revolution, Vintage Ink and R.H. Phillips.
2021
Acquisition of Vin First, a Canadian canning and Tetra™ packaging company, specializing in the beverage alcohol industry.
2023
New location for Le Clos Jordanne on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench.
Acquisition of Angels Gate Winery and Kew Winery, Niagara, Ontario.
Acquisition of Champagne Palmer of Champagne, France.
How long Arterra Wines remains under the control of the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan and a Canadian corporation remains to be seen. Should ownership become non-Canadian in the future, a significant portion of the Canadian wine industry will hang precariously in the balance; a sobering thought.
Millesime was a sparkling wine company in Niagara that was originally established by Frenchman Alain Girerd. He saw Niagara’s potential as a wine producing region and developed his export business from France to service Canadian winemaker’s needs. Millesime provided comprehensive solutions for traditional method sparkling wine production services such as consulting, riddling, disgorging, and packaging.
Len Pennachetti, Harald Thiel, and Philip Dowell
In December 2023, Millesime was purchased by two of the Niagara’s key winery owners and a veteran winemaker. Hidden Bench Winery owner Harald Thiel, Cave Spring co-founder Len Pennachetti and winemaker Philip Dowell purchased Millesime and have renamed it Niagara Sparkling Wine Service.
By acquiring Millesime and providing Ontario craft winemakers with a scalable traditional method for producing sparkling wine, they feel they can ensure and expand the growth of premium sparkling wine production in Ontario. Winemaker Dowell, the operating partner of Niagara Sparkling Wine Service, has been crafting benchmark traditional method sparkling wine for more than 20 years and provides sparkling wine consulting services to the industry on an as needed basis. Dowell was most recently the winemaker at Kew Vineyards and Angels Gate prior to their being purchased by Arterra Wines Canada.
Millesime was originally sold by its founder, Alain Girerd to John Young, who was then president at Angels Gate Winery. Dowell and Young operated the company as the full-service facility as it was envisioned by Girerd until Arterra purchased Angels Gate Winery and left Millesime dormant. The purchase by Thiel, Pennachetti and Dowell from Young got the idle sparkling wine production facility back in operation to the relief of wineries who had their wines tied up during the transition.
Ireland, the former whiskey capital of the world which dominated whiskey sales into the early 20th Century, quickly fell from grace due to several reasons. First, people were starting to prefer blended whiskies rather than the traditional single malts and single pot varieties. The Irish, however, chose to ignore this market trend and saw reduced sales as a result. Second, the American Prohibition negatively impacted sales, given that 60% of U.S. whiskey sales came from Ireland. Finally, internal conflict in the 1920s within Ireland itself and the subsequent trade war with Britain a few years later left the Irish Whiskey trade in a dismal state. By the 1970s the number of whiskey distilleries had been reduced to just two – Bushmills and New Midleton, which were both owned by the same company.
Fast forwarding to the period between 1990 and 2010, the Irish Whiskey industry experienced a resurgence, making it the fastest growing liquor industry. Today there are more than 40 distilleries throughout Ireland and more being added; the choices are becoming overwhelming. So today I will take you through a list of what many experts agree are many of the best Irish whiskeys on the market. Included are a couple of my personal favourites.
Before reviewing the list, it’s important to keep in mind that there are four styles of Irish Whiskey: Single Pot Still, Single Malt, Single Grain and Blended. Keep in mind that “Single” in the title refers to a single distillery, it is not a descriptor for the words following after.
SINGLE POT STILL
This was once the most common way to make whiskey but had become almost nonexistent by the end of the 20th Century. There has been somewhat of a resurgence in recent years. The single pot still variety originally came about during the 1700s as a way to avoid taxes imposed on malted barley.
The classification states that the whiskey must be made from a single distillery, distilled in pot stills from a mashbill that contains at least 30% malted barley and 30% unmalted barley, with up to 5% of other cereal grains. Pot still whiskey is noticeably spicier and creamier than other styles.
Recommended single pot style whiskies include:
Powers John’s Lane
$76 at LCBO
Because of its 200 year history, Powers has a reputation for being mainstream though it is actually a lesser-known label. It is named after the location of its old distillery, where it held production beginning in the early 1800s until 1975. The whiskey is aged in bourbon barrels and finished in Oloroso sherry casks creating flavours of leather, tobacco, wood, dark chocolate and toffee.
Redbreast 12 Year Old Cask Strength
$120 at LCBO
Redbreast has several popular expressions, but the 12 Year Old Cask Strength is arguably its most popular. At 116 proof, this whiskey provides flavours of oak, buttery pears, cinnamon apple, baking spices, caramel and vanilla.
I have tried Redbreast but I personally have never found it too endearing.
Green Spot
$88 at LCBO
Not appearing on the experts’ list, but one of my own personal favourites is Mitchell and Sons Green Spot. The whiskey has matured in a combination of first and second fill bourbon casks as well as sherry casks. It has flavours of green apples, honey and cinnamon spice. To me this whiskey provides good value for the price.
SINGLE MALT
Single malt Irish whiskey must be made in a single distillery, distilled in pot stills from a mashbill composed entirely of malted barley. Single malt is noticeably smoother than the single pot still style.
Recommended single malt style whiskies include:
The Sexton
$50 at LCBO
Contained within a unique hexagonal bottle, The Sexton single malt has the appearance and taste of a good quality spirit even though it has a very affordable price; the least expensive in this list. Aged for four years in casks previously used for Oloroso sherry, the whiskey has a silky profile of oak, fruit, honeycomb and a hint of spice.
Overall, I like The Sexton although I often favour a whiskey with a little more complexity in flavour. If I am looking for a mindless dram to relax with, this is a good one.
Bushmills 21 Year
$264 at LCBO
Bushmills is the oldest licensed distillery in the world, successfully enduring the near extinction of Irish whiskey in the 1970s as one of two remaining distilleries. The 21 Year single malt is Bushmills’ premier expression, triple distilled and aged for 19 years in either former Oloroso sherry casks or bourbon barrels and then finished for an extra two years in Madeira casks. The result is a big flavour profile of fig, mango, caramel, cherry and apricot, all ending with a sweet finish.
SINGLE GRAIN
Single grain whiskey refers to any whiskey distilled in a column still rather than a pot still. Its mashbill can also be no more than 30% malted barley. The result is something with higher alcohol content, yet is less flavourful. As a result, single grain whiskey is largely used for blended varieties rather than bottled by itself, although there are some exceptions.
Recommended single grain style whiskies include:
Teeling Single Grain
Opening in 2015, Teeling is the first new distillery in Dublin in 125 years. However, Teeling was originally opened in 1782, closing in 1923. The current owners possess the Teeling family name. They put out one of the most versatile ranges of Irish whiskeys, including the rare single grain, which I unfortunately could find no reference to at the LCBO. It is made with a corn-dominant mashbill where it’s then aged in former Cabernet Sauvignon wine barrels creating a profile that ranges from cranberries to butterscotch to the typical sweetness of bourbon whiskey.
Method & Madness Single Grain
Method & Madness is part of the micro-distillery offshoot at New Midleton Distillery. It was launched a few years ago and has an outside the box approach to the aging process. The brand came up with a single grain spirit that’s aged in first-fill bourbon barrels and finished in virgin Spanish oak. The result is a flavourful single grain whiskey with hints of oak, spice and grapefruit. Unfortunately, this whiskey is not available for sale in Ontario.
BLENDED
The driving force behind blended whiskey is that it is a good way to produce the spirit while keeping costs lower. Blended whiskey combines two or more of the previous styles, usually a higher quality liquor with a lower quality one. Most mainstream Irish Whiskeys, such as Jameson and Tullamore Dew, are of the blended variety.
Writers’ Tears
$60 at LCBO
Writers’ Tears is produced by Walsh Whiskey. This blended spirit combines single pot still and single malt varieties. Aged in American bourbon barrels, the whiskey possesses flavours of lemon, honey, black pepper and floral notes.
I have tried Writers’ Tears a few times and have found the flavour to be light and subtle. It is a good choice for anyone new to the whiskey scene.
Jameson Bow Street 18 Year Cask Strength
Jameson, one of Ireland’s most renowned distilleries, put out its rarest release in 2018 and has done so once a year since. The historic Bow Street distillery operated for nearly 200 years until it closed in 1976 and was later turned into a museum, which I have visited. Jameson’s Bow Street 18 Year Cask Strength is claimed to be the king of all blended whiskies, combining both pot still and grain varieties. This expression has flavours of toffee, oak, vanilla and sherry, as well as notes of leather.
This particular Jameson rendition is unfortunately not available in Ontario.
These are the wineries from British Columbia that particularly caught my attention this past year. My impressions are based on several factors: the winery’s performance at both the National Wine Awards and the All Canadian Wine Championships, environmental and sustainability practices of each winery and my own thoughts.
I have listed the wineries in alphabetical order and have included several of their 2023 award winning wines.
Corcelettes Estate Winery
Corcelettes was ranked as the second best performing small winery at this year’s National Wine Awards. It is located on 150 acres in British Columbia’s Similkameen Valley. Charlie and Jesce Baessler blend passion, precision and science to craft their expressive, small lot premium wines. No short cuts are taken in finding balance between viticulture, the environment and winemaking.
Corcelettes first vintage was in 2011, consisting of 200 cases. They currently craft 8,200 cases of wine per year, with plans of each future vintage growing in production size.
Their portfolio includes predominantly Syrah and Pinot Noir, crafted from Similkameen grown grapes. There is also a small selection of premium wines from the Micro Lot Series; wines crafted from specially selected grapes available only in limited quantities.
In addition to this year, Corcelettes was among the Top 10 Small Wineries at the 2018, 2019 and 2021 National Wine Awards of Canada.
This year’s Platinum and Gold award winning wines included:
Deep Roots was awarded Best Performing Small Winery at this year’s National Wine Awards where they earned 1 Platinum, 4 Gold, 1 Silver and 4 Bronze medals.
Their Platinum and Gold winners included:
Deep Roots 2020 Reserve Chardonnay
Deep Roots 2020 Parentage Red
Deep Roots 2022 Gamay
Deep Roots 2020 Syrah
Deep Roots 2022 Sauvignon Blanc
Deep Roots is a family owned and operated winery situated on the clay cliffs above Okanagan Lake on the Naramata Bench, where beginning in 2003 the Hardman family began switching their 100-year-old family farm from an apple orchard to a vineyard. Today they have 19 acres of grape vines spread between two Naramata vineyards, using almost exclusively estate fruit.
Initially the grapes were all sold to CedarCreek and Lake Breeze, among others. However, that all changed in 2012 when Will Hardman broke ground to create his own winery. There are two vineyards at two sites on the Naramata Bench where they grow Muscat, Gamay, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Malbec and Syrah grapes.
All the vineyard work is done by hand, as the Hardmans are passionate about producing grapes that are the best expressions of each varietal.
Road 13 Vineyards
At Road 13 in Oliver, B.C., they farm to protect the land. Their philosophy is that by taking care of the dirt, the dirt then can take care of the roots of the vines, thus producing the best fruit possible. Doing things right means going the extra mile, in both the vineyard and in the cellar. Winemaker, Barclay Robinson and his crew farm organically to produce the best wine possible.
Road 13’s Platinum and Gold award winning wines included the following:
Road 13 2020 Select Harvest GSM
Road 13 2013 Jackpot Sparkling Chenin Blanc
Road 13 2020 John Oliver Cabernet Franc
Road 13 2021 Viognier
Road 13 2020 John Oliver Petit Verdot
Road 13 2022 Honest John’s Rose
SpearHead Winery
SpearHead Winery of Kelowna, B.C, appears on my list of British Columbia’s list of movers and shakers for the second straight year.
Their focus is on premium quality wine which is produced from grapes grown in their estate vineyard and from selected Okanagan Valley vineyards. The hand harvested grapes are sorted at the winery and fermented in small lots.
SpearHead produces Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling varietals. Approximately 80% of the 15 acres of vines is comprised of Pinot Noir including four different Dijon clones, 2 California heritage clones and Pommard. This combination of plantings enables the wine maker to select from the different characteristics of these clones to create a complex Pinot Noir from their home vineyard. They also draw from several other vineyards in the Okanagan including Golden Retreat in Summerland and Coyote Vineyard in West Kelowna.
Their 2023 Platinum and Gold award winning wines include the following:
SpearHead 2020 Club Consensus Pinot Noir
Spearhead 2020 Golden Retreat Pinot Noir
SpearHead 2021 Saddle Block Pinot Noir
SpearHead 2021 Cuvée Pinot Noir
SpearHead 2021 Golden Retreat Pinot Noir
SpearHead 2022 Pinot Gris
Wild Goose Winery
It all began in early 1983 when founder Adolf Kruger purchased a piece of land east of Okanagan Falls.
Kruger first planted Riesling and Gewürztraminer with the intention of selling the grapes. Over the following few years, outstanding wines were produced by purchasers of the grapes leading him to the decision to make his own wine.
Wild Goose Winery became the seventeenth winery in British Columbia and was established in June 1990. The winery started producing Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Maréchal Foch. Over time Wild Goose established itself as a premium small producer of VQA wines.
In July of 2021, the Wyse family of Burrowing Owl Vineyards purchased Wild Goose Vineyards & Winery. Wild Goose’s approach to winemaking has been to grow the highest quality fruit and then transform it into premium wines.
It has become a bit of a tradition that as the year draws to a close that I share my thoughts as to which wineries are stepping forward to be noticed. As usual I have based my opinions on each winery’s performance at both the National Wine Awards and the All Canadian Wine Championships, environmental and sustainability practices and my own personal impressions.
The number of wineries on my list varies from year to year as I prefer to highlight wineries that I feel have excelled. This is not to suggest that these are the only great wineries in the province; they are merely the ones that especially caught my attention this year. The wineries are presented in alphabetical order and I have included several of each winery’s 2023 award winning wines.
Broken Stone Winery
Having been introduced to this winery this past summer I have become a big fan. I then did some research to see what I could find out about it.
Broken Stone began in 2009 when Tim and Micheline Kuepfer purchased three hayfields along a backroad near Hillier, in Prince Edward County. At the time, the acre of newly planted grape vines that came with the land was almost an afterthought. The first harvest was in 2010 when two tonnes of quality Pinot Noir grapes were picked. An additional four acres of grapes were then planted with a vague notion that someday maybe a winery may be developed.
In 2012 a small building was constructed and the necessary licensing to make wine was obtained. Broken Stone Winery was born. Since then, the Kuepfers have been balancing the busy lifestyle of raising a family in Toronto with their passion for growing vines and making wine in Prince Edward County.
The result has become a dynamic boutique winery in the heart of the Prince Edward County wine region. Their mission is to grow the highest quality grapes and craft world-class wines. They believe that great grapes make great wine, and they strive to ensure that each great vintage is a little better than the last. Broken Stone continually strives to improve the vineyard biodiversity and soils. They strive to live in harmony with the earth and leave a legacy for future generations.
Colchester Ridge Estate Winery
Colchester Ridge is a relatively new winery located in Harrow, which is in the Lake Erie North Shore wine region. The wine labels display the acronym CREW.
I was first introduced to CREW wines by a friend who brought my wife and I a bottle of Meritage when they came to stay with us for a weekend just prior to the pandemic. From then until this past July, my search for another bottle had been fruitless (no pun intended). Then finally I was able to order several bottles of their most recent release, the CREW 2020 Meritage.
CREW was established in 2001 by the husband and wife team of Bernie and Nancy Gorski. The Gorski’s planted twelve acres of vines on their family land in 2001 and produced their first vintage in 2004. Then in 2006 they opened their shop. After years of continual growth, the Gorski’s launched the new CREW Winery & Gallery in November 2019.
Their award-winning wines include the following:
CREW 2020 Barrelman’s Blend
CREW 2020 Meritage
CREW 2018 Grand CREW Cabernet Sauvignon
Hidden Bench Estate Winery (ranked 1st at National Wine Awards)
Hidden Bench was recognized as the 2023 Winery of the Year at the National Wine Awards of Canada. Hidden Bench has come close to top Awards before, previously competing in the small winery category. However, the winery has grown to produce now over 10,000 cases of wine each year, allowing it to qualify for the top prize. Owner Harald Thiel is committed to being an estate winery using only Beamsville Bench fruit. By controlling his own fruit, he can control the quality as well.
Hidden Bench has emerged as the signature property among several highly regarded wineries on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench, an area of gently sloping, north-facing, limestone-laced sites and maturing vineyards and wineries. All of the wines of Hidden Bench are sourced from the Beamsville Bench and are produced using a comprehensive sustainable approach.
Hidden Bench also appeared in my 2022 and 2020 Ontario lists.
Hidden Bench’s 2023 award winning wines include 2 Platinum, 5 Gold and 5 Silver winners. The platinum and gold winning wines included the following:
Hidden Bench 2020 Pinot Noir Felseck Vineyard
Hidden Bench 2020 Chardonnay Tête de Cuvée Rosomel Vineyard
Hidden Bench 2020 Estate Riesling
Hidden Bench 2017 Natur Zero Dosage
Hidden Bench 2020 Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard
Hidden Bench 2021 Nuit Blanche Rosomel Vineyard
Hidden Bench 2021 Chardonnay Beton
Tawse Winery (Ranked 2nd at National Wine Awards)
Tawse Winery adheres to a non-interventionist philosophy and a firm belief that the start of every great wine begins in the vineyard. Their wines reflect their unique terroir near Vineland, in the heart of the Niagara wine Region.
Healthy vines yield quality fruit which allows for the creation of terroir-driven wines of great elegance, depth and character. Promoting the health of the vines and vineyards requires a labour-intensive and hands-on approach. Yields are kept low by cluster-thinning to ensure that all the energy of the vine is focused to ripen fewer, higher-quality grape clusters.
Organic farming feeds the vines and controls diseases without the use of synthetic insecticides, fungicides and fertilizers. They strive to create a diversified balanced ecosystem that generates health and fertility from the vineyard itself. Healthy vines mean less need for outside substances to control diseases and promote growth.
The architecture of the winery was created to be environmentally friendly. The wines are aged in underground cellars, which keeps the ambient temperature between 10 and 16 degrees Celsius, with a natural humidity of approximately 85%. The modern geo-thermal energy system has reduced the use of traditional forms of energy by 80%. There is also a wetland bio-filter which allows them to re-use all their sanitary and winery process water.
Tawse earned 2 Platinum, 4 Gold, 8 Silver and 5 Bronze medals this year at the National Wine Awards. The Platinum and Gold award-winning wines include the following:
People sometimes look at me funny when I tell them I periodically write about whiskey in my wine blog. However, here is an excellent example of how the world of one is in many ways very similar to that of the other.
Photo credit: thedrinksbusiness.com
Raimonds Tomsons, who is from Latvia, won the ASI (Association de la Sommellerie Internationale) Best Sommelier of the World competition earlier this year in Paris, France. Prior to winning the championship, Tomsons had already made a name for himself due to his work in wine, being a board member of the Latvian Sommelier Association and having worked with several high-end restaurants and importers in Latvia.
He is now going to be the global brand ambassador for The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. of Dublin, Ireland. Tomsons will now be applying his expertly trained nose and palate in his new role. He sees this new endeavor as giving him the opportunity to further enhance his learning by exploring the diverse world of spirits and other beverages.
Tomsons sees that by joining Jay Bradley and his team at The Craft Irish Whiskey Co., he will have an opportunity to explore fine Irish whiskey in depth, and work on innovative whiskey and food pairings. Bradley feels that Tomsons’’ knowledge and ability to detect nuances and layers of flavour compliments the way he makes whiskeys, each bottle of which offers a unique complexity of flavours.
The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. was founded by Bradley in 2018. The distillery creates rare and ultra-rare Irish whiskeys, including The Emerald Isle, worth an incredible $2 million US, making it one of the most expensive whiskeys in the world.
Craft Irish Whiskey is made only in a pot still and with hand-selected barrels. They craft whiskey as it was once made before the rise of blends and mass-production techniques. They are proud to be reviving the art of crafting whiskey. The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. considers themselves as being rooted in tradition but with an eye on the future, a modern expression of a historic craft.
It is now also a marriage between the world of wine and that of whiskey.
A Layman's Wine Musings 