A Lost Appetite

Many of the world’s wine regions are facing problems resulting from an oversupply of grapes. For example, last year the French government spent 200 million euros to dispose of surplus wine. In addition to that, Bordeaux region vintners received 57 million euros to destroy 9,500 hectares of grape vines.

Photo credit: vancouversun.com

In Australia, millions of vines are being destroyed and tens of millions more must be removed to control overproduction. Drastically reduced grape prices are threatening the incomes of growers and wine makers.

Falling consumption of wine worldwide has hit Australia particularly hard as demand shrinks fastest for the cheaper reds that are its biggest product. It had relied on the Chinese market for growth until recent years. Last year there was more than two billion litres of surplus wine in Australia.

Oversupply is not a new phenomenon. In the past the industry has always been able to readjust but going forward it may not be as easy. Past declines were triggered by economic factors such as market crashes, the tech boom, new tax laws and other more specific events that impacted the amount of money people spent and how they prioritized their consumption of wine.

Today the reduction in wine consumption is the result of a change in attitude and lifestyle resulting in people consuming less wine. Campaigns such a “Dry January” and “Sober October” are becoming more and more popular, leading to less wine consumption in the other ten months of the year. As a result, wine drinking has been declining year over year since 2017.

In France, wine consumption has declined significantly, from 150 litres per person per year in 1950, to 40 litres per person in 2022. The French people are no longer insular with just their own culture. Instead, they have adopted influences from other parts of the world and as a result, have substituted some of their wine consumption with other beverage options, such as beer, whiskey and cocktails.

Cuisine is changing as well, which has altered drinking habits. Lighter food choices and finger foods are often replacing traditional multi-course meals. Also, people have been reducing the amount of red meat in their diet. This has resulted in consumers wanting lighter, lower-alcohol wines. The Bordeaux region in particular has been greatly impacted by this, having reduced demand for their full-bodied red wines.

The U.S. market is being impacted as well due to a focus on wellness and a change in lifestyle. Non-alcoholic beverages sales there have increased 20.6 percent from 2021 to 2022.

People are drinking less wine but better wine. Over the past seven years, the U.S. wine industry is seeing growth rates sag in the under $12 category but wines in higher-priced tiers continue to see growth.

This change has also impacted wine sales in Australia where for the first time since the mid-1990s there is an oversupply based on a lack of consumer demand. A main driver of the decline is due to the lack of demand for Australin wine in the U.S.

There are other factors as well affecting Australian wine sales. In March 2021, China imposed a 218 percent tariff on Australian wine in response to Australia requesting an independent investigation as to the origins of COVID-19. China’s decision wreaked havoc on Australia’s wine industry.

The world is also still feeling the effects of the pandemic. From supply chain issues to how people purchase and consume wine was severely impacted. The good news is that there are indications that the wine industry is heading toward a return to normalcy, at least in this regard. Wine consumption remains lower than in 2015 but above what it was in 2021.  This is largely due to the reopening of bars and restaurants. The long-term effects remain to be seen.

Depending on soil conditions, some French vintners are now investigating switching to other crops such as corn or wheat. Others are changing vineyards into livestock pastures. Australia is focusing on market expansion and providing wineries with market data so they can determine their best course of action.  Not waiting for new markets to open, some growers are turning to citrus and nut trees instead.

One thing for certain is there is currently much uncertainty in the wine industry.

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Canadian Wine Trends

Here is what the organizers and judges were seeing, hearing and thinking at this year’s WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada (NWAC). Their narrative has been separated by each judging category and presented below.

Photo credit: winealign.com

Sparkling Wine

While global wine consumption has decreased over the past two years. Sparkling wine, except for costly Champagne, has progressed upwards. In Canada, the Sparkling category burst during the pandemic, especially with accessible and affordable selections. The quality of Canadian sparkling wine continues to improve.

Red Blends

Red blends are abundant in both British Columbia and Ontario, making it the second largest category at the National Wine Awards. There is a variety of styles and grape varieties.

Bordeaux blends and Rhone blends continue to be important, but winemakers are increasingly evolving beyond the traditional French classic style. The next frontier is beginning to appear where blends consisting of Malbec, Carménère and Syrah are part of a new wave of Okanagan red blends.

White Blends

Winemakers continually mix and match with several varietal combinations. There are many permutations made with traditional varietals, as well as hybrid grapes.

There are no firm rules other than those set out by VQA which says that all the grapes in a labeled bottle must come from the province, an appellation and sub-appellation. Beyond this, the choices are endless, allowing white blends to vary from the traditional to the eclectic. Concepts include the Bordeaux combination of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, Rhône blends that may include Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, but also Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc, Picpoul and Ugni Blanc. This year, British Columbia has continued to set the trends for blending and styles.

Rosé

There is a great deal of flexibility with respect to producing Rosé wine. Extraction levels and pigmentation can vary, many red or combination of red and white grape varietals can be used and there are no rules overseeing sweetness levels or oak aging.

Most Rosés are not meant for extended aging and are often best consumed in the year in which they are made. In Canada, most Rosés are bottled from March to June and make it to the stores between April and July.

Pinot Gris/Grigio

This white wine grape is a mutation clone of the black Pinot Noir grape. The skin colour varies greatly, and the wines produced from Pinot Gris also vary in hue from palest yellow to deep golden to blushing salmon. Pinot Gris also goes by its Italian name, Pinot Grigio. Wines made in the fresh, crisp and unoaked style of Italy’s Veneto region are called Grigio, while those in a richer, riper version go by Gris.

Orange

Orange wines are skiin contact white wines. There is no rule as to the length of the contact period or the grape varietals used. These wines range widely in colour and style.

Niagara’s popular Vidal grape responded well to skin contact, bringing texture and complexity to its tropical fruit profile. However, aromatic Gewürztraminer, with its subtly oily mouthfeel and subtle tannic framework, also showed well.

Gamay

Things change each year as there are new entries from newer wineries making Gamay.  Some things also remain the same as many long-time advocates and committed Gamay producers continue to make excellent wines.

Pinot Noir

No other grape causes more of a stir. For many, there is no other grape variety. Pinot Noir has found enormous global success and Canadian soils are largely responsible for that. From agile, transparent, high-toned, red berry charmers to darker, seriously ripe and often tannic iterations, Pinot Noir succeeds with harmony and balance.

Chardonnay

This is always one of the largest categories in the competition. Chardonnay always leads or equals the greatest number of medals from platinum to bronze. Prices ranged from $87 for the most expensive medal winner to $11.95 for the least costly.

While the most expensive wine was not a platinum winner, there is a correlation between price and medal earned, establishing that top quality wine sells for more money. The average price for the platinum winners came in at just over $45, $40 for gold, $39 for silver and $33 for Bronze.

Malbec and other Red Single Varieties

Malbec represented 18 of the 41 medal winners in this category and accounted for 7 of 8 of the gold medals. It accounted for just 1.4% of entries in the competition but earned 4.1% of all gold medals.

This trend is almost entirely driven by British Columbia. There is something special about Okanagan Malbec. Much like Syrah, it does well up and down the valley.

Other White Single Varieties

Chardonnay and Riesling are often singled out as the signature grapes when it comes to top quality Canadian white wine. There are many other white varieties producing spectacular results including Grüner Veltliner wines from British Columbia.

Chenin Blanc is another consistent performer in BC and Ontario, making vibrant, fruit- forward wines.

Sleek, elegant Sémillon wines are also cropping up with increased frequency from coast to coast, as single variety wines and in classic Sauvignon blends.

Pinot Blanc proved its merit for good value, easy drinking white wine.

Gewürztraminer and Viognier

Viognier and Gewürztraminer remain minor varieties on the Canadian wine scene. Both grapes are particularly unreliable in Ontario, where Gewürztraminer accounted for just 2% of total production in 2023. Viognier is so rare that it is in the “other” category in the VQA’s annual report. In B.C. Gewürztraminer places a respectable 4th among white varieties in 2023, behind Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling. Viognier sits in ninth position alongside other Rhône varieties suitable to the West Coast’s unique conditions.

Sauvignon Blanc

At this year’s competition, Sauvignon Blanc took great strides and gained increased favour from judges and wine lovers. There were 32 medals awarded, with 20 going to Ontario and 12 to British Columbia. Of impressive interest is the average price of the 16 Silver Medal winners. These are wines that scored 90 points with an average cost of $23.40.

Syrah

“Syrah” above “Shiraz” is the key style in Canada.  Reflective of a French Rhône style “Syrah”, as opposed to “Shiraz”, wines labelled as such tend to be distinctively peppery, with more sharp tannins, lower alcohol and exhibit more freshness than “Shiraz”. Yet in Canada, there is no enforcement over the use of these terms. Vintage variation and place do play a deterministic role, but the style of Syrah in Canada is heavily influenced by winegrowing and winemaking decisions that vary from producer to producer.

Ontario can produce excellent Syrah, but the category has forever been dominated by British Columbia.

Riesling

Canada has many great and quality examples of Riesling. It is a variety that truly expresses the place where it is grown. Riesling also counts among some of Canada’s oldest planted vinifera varieties, with plantings dating back to the mid 1970’s and early 1980’s in both Niagara and the Okanagan Valley.

Icewine & Late Harvest

Icewine, is the most important wine export. Now more than ever, due to erratic weather patterns, production is being threatened. Since the start of Icewine production in the 1970’s, a harvest has never been missed despite coming close a few times because of a mild winter in Ontario.

VQA regulations require the grapes to be naturally frozen on the vine, harvested, and pressed while the air temperature remains at or below -8 degrees Celsius. Recurrent periods of freezing and thawing can cause grapes to split, increasing unpredictable acidity in the wine. Production is a physically demanding task for both for the vines, that must bear their fruit into the cold of winter, as well as for the winemaker, who often harvests on the coldest of winter nights.

Cabernet Sauvignon

The number of gold medals has dropped from 13 in 2022 to 10 in 2023 to 7 this year. Despite the results, it is the category that has the most potential.

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely planted grape in the world, but such is not the case in Canada. It is the third most planted red variety in British Columbia, with 7.7% of total grapes grown. In Ontario, Cabernet Sauvignon represents only 5.9% of the grape harvest. There’s been a consistent downward trend, as a percentage of tonnage, over the last five years.

Cabernet Franc

Ontario has historically had a slight edge over the Okanagan Valley, given Ontario’s generally cooler and wetter climate, which suits the lighter, aromatic style that the judges tend to favour. However, the margin of difference has always been slim.

This year Ontario captured 38 out of 53 medals in total. However, British Columbia’s representation was impacted by the wildfires that severely impacted the Okanagan Valley in 2021, which resulted in smoke-tainted wines from some parts of the valley. Since these wineries did not submit any smoke-tainted wines, the number of submissions from B.C. was reduced significantly.

Merlot

Merlot remains the number one red planted grape in British Columbia.

There you have it; and that’s a wrap on the 2024 National Wine Awards.

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Aging and Wine Vintage

Before I begin let’s be clear on what ‘vintage wines’ are. Vintage wines are wines that are produced from grapes harvested during a single growing season as opposed to non-vintage wines, which can be produced from grapes grown in two or more growing seasons.

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Vintage wines that are cellared go through ongoing chemical effects that will continue until a bottle is uncorked. These outcomes are the result of continuous interactions between the wine’s alcohol, sugar and acid compounds, which combine in the bottle to create new complex flavours, textures and aromas. However, these results are not random. Skilled winemakers understand the chemistry behind aging wine and will manipulate the cellar environment to encourage various flavours and aromas that result in an appealing good vintage.

During cellaring the varietal’s natural flavours do not significantly change. A wine’s primary flavours will always be preserved regardless of cellaring timelines. These flavours are a result of the grape varietal and the conditions the grapes grew in.

However, aging a vintage varietal will affect the secondary and tertiary flavours and aromas. Both notes result from the winemaker’s techniques as well as the chemical interactions between a wine’s natural compounds. These activities define an aging wine.

White wines, especially dry whites like Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay, tend to become oily, heavy and stickier over time. Red wines, particularly those with naturally high tannin levels such as Nebbiolo, Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon, tend to soften with time. This creates sediment that collects at the bottom of a bottle. As a result, the wine becomes smoother and less sharp, resulting in a gentler drinking experience.

The final characteristic affected by aging wine is colour. To see if a red wine has been properly aged, first look at the outer edge where the poured wine meets the glass. At that meeting point, which is referred to as the rim, the wine will appear lighter in colour. A young red wine, on the other hand, will have a rim that appears murky or opaque.

As red wines oxidize with age, their colours often change to deep shades of ruby-purple to softened mauves and then finally to tawny, deep browns. As white wine ages it tends to move from paler, straw-yellow shades to deeper golden hues. White vintages aged three or more years can eventually darken to the point of turning a golden amber color.

These changes in colour are the result of oxidation. When a wine bottle is properly sealed the only oxygen in a bottle will be the small amount trapped in the bottle’s neck, as well as what little oxygen passes through the cork or seal. Most cellared red and white vintages will be sealed with a traditional cork, which allows minimal oxygen to permeate. However, given that cork is itself a natural non-uniform product, oxygen permeation will vary significantly even between bottles cellared and cased at the same time.

Not all wines are created with the ability to be aged. The wine maker’s notes are often a good indication of a wine’s aging capability. Red wines that generally age well include:

  • Bordeaux and Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, aged 2 to 4 years
  • Chianti Riserva, aged 2 to 4 years
  • Petite Syrah, aged 2 to 5 years
  • New World Nebbiolo, aged 2 to 6 years
  • Australian and Californian Grenache, aged 2 to 10 years
  • Italian or Californian Cabernet Sauvignons, aged 3 to 15 years
  • Italian Barolo, aged 3 to 15 years

White wines with aging capability include:

  • Dry White Bordeaux, aged 2 to 3 years
  • Alsace Pinot Gris, 2 to 5 years
  • White Rioja, aged 2 to 5 years
  • Alsace Gewürztraminer, aged 2 to 10 years
  • Californian Fume Blanc, aged 2 to 10 years
  • New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, aged 3 to 10 years
  • Australian Chardonnay, 3 to 10 years
  • German Riesling, 3 to 15 years

These lists are only a suggested guideline, not an exclusive list.

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Vintage versus Non-vintage Wine

On the surface, the difference between vintage and non-vintage wines is simple. Vintage wines are made from grapes harvested during a single growing season, while non-vintage wines can blend a few different harvests. Non-vintage wine, sometimes referred to as stylized wine, is where the winemaker often aims to match the flavour of the wine to be the same as previous years. On the other hand, vintage wines are based on the characteristics of the vineyard and climate. Due to climatic conditions, some years produce wines that are considered better than others.

Photo credit: vinepair.com

Finding a bottle’s vintage is relatively straightforward. Simply look for the year printed on the label of the bottle. This tells you when the grapes were grown and the wine produced was made. Wine labels containing the description “single vintage” indicate that the wine was produced exclusively from grapes from a single harvest. Depending on the producing country, that ratio must be comprised of 75% to 95% of same-crop grapes. As long as a producer abides by that percentage, they can label their bottle as vintage.

The vintage is an indication of the quality of the wine. The wine flavours, textures, mouthfeel, aroma and bouquets are fundamentally determined by the weather and climate conditions during its specific growing season. Since vintage tells you what year those grapes were grown, you are provided with an accurate distinction between “good” crop years yielding delicious, balanced wines from “bad” crop years hindered by poor weather.

Non-vintage wines are wines created by blending grapes from multiple crops. As a result, they will not have a year printed on the label or will simply have “N.V.” to denote the fact its contents are not from a single harvest. Non-vintage wine quality will vary, as with vintage wines. Many are raved about for their consistency and cost-consciousness and represent good value for more casual wine drinking.

Which is better? The answer depends on what you are looking for from your drinking experience. There are wonderful single vintages and non-vintages available. Non-vintages will offer more diversity and flexibility, particularly when it comes to blends combining several complementary grape varietals. In contrast, vintages provide the opportunity to discover a specific wine region, a micro-climate and even a winemaker’s bottling skills and expertise in ways non-vintages cannot.

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Biodynamic Wine

While visiting a winery in the Beaujolais district of France a few weeks ago I was introduced to a new term. I was told that the winery I was visiting was a biodynamic winery. This was a description I had not heard before, so I decided to research the topic in more depth when I returned home from my trip.

You may be familiar with what organic farming entails (if not, see my post Organic Wine from August 8, 2020), however the biodynamic movement is somewhat different. According to the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association, biodynamics is “a spiritual-ethical-ecological approach to agriculture, gardens, food production and nutrition.” Biodynamic wine is made with a set of farming practices that views the vineyard as one solid organism. The ecosystem functions with each portion of the vineyard contributing to the next. Conceptually, everything in the universe is interconnected and gives off a resonance or ‘vibe’. This interconnectivity even includes celestial bodies like the moon, planets and stars. Biodynamic viticulture is the practice of balancing this resonance between vine, human, earth and stars. Biodynamics is a holistic view of agriculture.

As with organic farming, natural materials, soils, and composts are used to sustain the vineyard. Chemical fertilizers and pesticides are not permitted. A range of animals from ducks to horses to sheep live on the soil and fertilize it, creating a rich, fertile environment for the vines to grow in. Biodynamic farming also seeks sustainability, leaving the land in as good or better condition.

Biodynamic farming has been met with skepticism by many scientists as some of the practices are difficult at best to prove they work. In addition to organic practices, biodynamic farming takes other factors into account, such as the lunar calendar and astrology. This method of farming considers all aspects of life in the vineyard — other plants, insects and animals. It’s not just about the grapes.

Photo credit: winefolly.com

Farming practices from pruning to harvesting are controlled by the biodynamic calendar. It breaks all the tasks associated with farming into four types of days: root days, flower days, fruit days and leaf days. Each of these categories has certain tasks associated with it that are reflective of the earth’s four classical elements. Fruit days are meant for harvesting, leaf days for watering, root days for pruning. On flower days, nothing is done in the vineyard.

Biodynamic farming calls for specific and sometimes strange compost and field preparations. One of these is known as cow horn manure. Cow horns are stuffed with manure compost and buried into the ground all through the winter, then excavated the following spring. When excavated, the stuffed material is spread throughout the vineyard.

Biodynamic wines must be certified and adhere to strict rules and regulations. The wineries are overseen by 2 governing bodies, Demeter International and Biodyvin.

Biodynamic wines can be found in the United States, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Eastern Europe, Chile, Argentina, India and Australia. Those who believe in the philosophy feel that the wines are more characteristic to the terroir where they originate. However, wine experts say there is no noticeable difference in the taste of biodynamic wine from organically produced wines. Is the difference worth the additional effort? You be the judge.

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Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio

Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are made from the same grape and are obviously both white wines, but it can be argued that the similarity ends there.

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Pinot Gris originates in France and is believed to be a mutation of Pinot Noir. It’s mainly grown in the Alsace region of France. The grape is thought to have reached Italy during the 1300s where the variety was called Pinot Grigio.  The Italian version is primarily grown in the Alto Adige region of northwestern Italy.

Gris is the French word for gray and grigio is gray in Italian. The gray describes the grayish-purple skin of the grapes.

Both Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio will appear on wines produced in countries other than France or Italy. There is an abundance of Pinot Gris grapes produced in countries such as Canada, the United States, Australia and New Zealand.

So what determines why some are labelled Pinot Gris while others are referred to as Pinot Grigio? Winemakers have the choice of selecting which name they use. There is no hard and fast rule, however most will base the name on the style of the wine they produce. You can usually tell the style by the colour. Pinot Gris style wines are typically darker and more yellow in colour, whereas Pinot Grigio wines are very light yellow, almost clear.

Pinot Gris wines are rich, full-bodied and accompanied by higher alcohol content. Made with fully ripe grapes that are occasionally barrel fermented, Pinot Gris often has extra sweetness and a creamy feel. The darker grape skins tend to produce a golden colour.

By contrast, Pinot Grigio is harvested early, resulting in a light-bodied, crisper wine with a lower level of alcohol. The aromas are primarily of fresh fruit and florals.

Pinot Gris embodies complex flavours such as cinnamon and lemon, with a tingly aftertaste. Late harvest French-style Pinot Gris is a rather sweet wine. This is due to noble rot, which creates honeylike undertones.

Pinot Grigio tends to be a lighter, crisp, dry style of wine with flavours of citrus and green apple, pear, lime and lemon, with a refreshing spark of acidity. Some Italian-style Grigio wines also have a floral aroma of honeysuckle.

The Pinot Gris style pairs well with roast pork, creamy pasta, and dense cheeses like Comté or Gruyère, seared scallops, or creamy mushroom risotto. Off-dry versions go well with spicy Asian or Indian dishes like chicken tikka masala or Thai green curry.

The lighter Pinot Grigio is a great apéritif but, also goes well with grilled shrimp, salads or fruit platters and sushi.

Now it is up to you to decide whether you prefer Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio.

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Right and Left Bank Bordeaux Wines

Bordeaux; most people have heard of this French wine region, which is one of the most famous Old World wine regions, but many people don’t understand it. To begin with, Bordeaux is divided into two sections, referred to as the Left Bank and the Right Bank. The banks refer to the left (west)and right (east) bank of the Gironde Estuary and Garonne River.

The Left and Right banks have significantly different terroirs. A terroir is the natural environment in which a particular wine is produced, including factors such as the soil, topography, and climate.  

The soil is rockier on the Left Bank. It is packed with gravel and deep deposits of limestone which serves to provide more character and potential quality in the wine. This is why Left Bank wines are considered prime candidates for aging, while Right Bank wines are generally thought to be smoother and more drinkable at the time they are released for sale.

This is not to suggest that Right Bank wines are simple and boring. With limestone closer to the surface and less gravel for the vine roots to contend with, the wines of the Right Bank don’t lack character; it’s just that they possess a different kind of character.

When it comes to the grape varietals grown, because of the differences in the terroir between the Left and Right Bank, each supports its own type of grape. As a result, this is often the best way to distinguish between a Left and Right Bank Bordeaux, as the label will not often tell you. Left Bank wines are mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a smaller portion of Merlot. The Right Bank wines are dominated by Merlot balanced by a smaller proportion of Cabernet.

The Cabernet dominated Left Bank wines tend to be higher in tannin, thus the reason why they age well. Aging the wine helps to mellow out the tannins and integrate the flavors of the wine. Merlot-based Right Bank wines are generally smoother, with softer fruit flavours as tannins are not as dominating.

The last comparison is between the wineries or chateaux themselves. These are the castle-like structures that appear on many of the Bordeaux wine labels.  Generally, the Left Bank chateaux have larger vineyards than those of the Right Bank. Left Bank vineyards are on average 5o to 80 hectares in size versus those of the Right Bank, which only have a maximum of about 30 hectares. However, this is only a fun-fact as vineyard size really has no impact on the quality or character of the wine. Arguably the most renown chateaux include Chateau Margaux, Lafite, and Mouton Rothschild on the Left Bank and Petrus and Cheval Blanc from the Right Bank.

So, which wines are better?  Neither. If you are looking for a wine to enjoy with dinner tonight, a Right Bank wine is probably the better choice, whereas if you are looking for a wine to age and appreciate in the future, you will find that a Left Bank wine will improve with age and provide a delightfully satisfying experience when it is uncorked in a few years’ time.

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Wine and Pasta

Wine and Pasta

Winter is a time for comfort food and one of my favourite comfort foods is pasta. When it comes to pairing a wine with pasta, the deciding factor should be the accompanying sauce, not the pasta itself because after all, pasta by itself does not have a great deal of flavour.

Photo credit: finewinemaster.com

Tomato-Based Pasta

Tomato-based sauces are high in acid and are often blended with beef or pork. Because of the acidity in tomatoes, a dry, medium-bodied red wine is recommended. Examples of red, medium-weight wines include:

  • Chianti
  • Grenache
  • Nero d’Avola
  • Primitivo
  • Rhône Blends
  • Sangiovese
  • Zinfandel

Cheese Pasta

There are a wide range of red as well as white wines that will pair well with cheese sauces. You shouldn’t feel restricted to serving just white wine with white cheese pasta. An oaked white wine will have a buttery character that will compliment the creamy sauce. Examples include an oaked Trebbiano or Chardonnay. Here are a couple of white wine options to consider:

  • Oaked Chardonnay
  • Oaked Trebbiano

Also, lighter more floral red wines will also pair well with intense hard-cheese pasta, especially if there are mushrooms or root vegetables in the sauce.   Red wine options include:

  • Chianti
  • Nebbiolo
  • Pinot Noir
  • Sangiovese

Seafood Pasta

Light-bodied white wines are the preferred pairing choice for seafood pasta. These wines will be relatively acidic, thus a good balance for creamy white sauces and fatty seafood, such as scallops, shrimp, oysters or mussels. White wine options include:

  • Chenin Blanc
  • Grenache Blanc
  • Pinot Gris / Pinot Grigio
  • Riesling
  • Sauvignon Blanc

For seafood pasta that is cooked in a tomato-based sauce, light body red wines or Rosé are a good option. Red wine options include:

  • Pinot Noir
  • Malbec

Pesto Pasta

Whether you are serving the traditional pine nut and basil pesto or another type of pesto, the focus should be on matching the green, whether it be parsley, cilantro, mint, etc. which is the centerpiece of the dish. For the most part, herbaceous wines are said to be best suited when serving pesto pasta. Herbaceous wines are those wines that have aromas and flavours like herbs such as mint, vegetables such as asparagus, freshly cut grass or tomato leaves. Wines considered to be herbaceous include:

  • Grüner Veltliner
  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Cabernet Sauvignon

Primavera (Vegetable) Pasta

Spring onions, garlic ramps, artichoke hearts and broccolini are among the choices on which to base primavera. The objective is to highlight the springy freshness of the vegetables; thus, it is often best paired with a light-bodied white wine with lemony and floral notes. However, if the pasta has major vegetable intensity, it needs to be matched with an equally savory white wine. White sauce wine options include:

  • Pinot Gris / Pinot Grigio
  • Riesling
  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Vermentino

If tomatoes are a major component of the primavera, a light-bodied acidic red wine would be a better choice. Tomato sauce wine options include:

  • Cabernet Franc
  • Pinot Noir
  • Rosé

No matter which type of pasta you fancy, one of the corresponding wine options will compliment your meal.

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The Best Irish Whiskeys Of 2023

At the end of November, The Irish Whiskey Association announced the 2023 Irish Whiskey Awards winners. Now having over 40 distilleries, Ireland has reemerged as a powerhouse in the international whiskey industry and is now the fastest-growing whiskey making country in the world.

Whiskey tastings were conducted throughout Ireland with members of the Irish Whiskey Society. Events took place in Dublin, Dingle, Cork, Waterford, Kilkenny, Ennis, Carlow and Belfast. There was also a select group of international whiskey judges.

The Best Irish Whiskey of the Year prize was awarded to Connacht Irish Whiskey Distillery, Exclusive Cask Strength, Single Malt Irish Whiskey, 47% ABV, 750 ml.

Connacht’s single malt whiskey is a triple-distilled whiskey produced at their distillery in Ballina, County Mayo. The distillery was founded by Master Distiller Robert Cassell in 2016, along with a team of Irish whiskey entrepreneurs who saw the potential of northwest Ireland’s unique climate to produce an iconic Irish whiskey. The region is characterized by dramatic swings in atmospheric pressure that contributes to producing a flavourful, heavily extracted whiskey. The use of custom-designed stills further enhances the unique character of the whiskey.

Other winners included:

Single Pot Still 11 Years and Under

  • Winner: Drumshanbo Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Pinot Noir Cask
  • Gold: Jameson Single Pot Still
  • Gold: Powers Three Swallows

Single Pot Still 12 Years and Over

  • Winner: Red Spot 15 Year Old
  • Gold: Yellow Spot 12 Year Old
  • Gold: Redbreast 15 Year Old

Single Malt 11 Years and Younger

  • Winner: Jack Ryan Whiskey 5-Year-Old Oloroso Finish Cask Strength
  • Gold: Dunville’s 10 Year Old Pedro Ximenez Cask
  • Gold: The Irishman Legacy

Single Malt 12 – 15 Year Old

  • Winner: Tullamore DEW 14 Year Old
  • Gold: Knappogue Castle 12 Year Old
  • Gold: The Irishman 12 Year Old

Single Malt 16 Years & Older

  • Winner: The Irishman 17 Year Old
  • Gold: Dunville’s 21-Year-Old Palo Cortado Cask
  • Gold: McConnell’s Irish Whisky 20 Year Old Port Finish Single Cask

Blended No Age Statement

  • Winner: Writers’ Tears Double Oak
  • Gold: Jameson Crested
  • Gold: Powers Gold Label

Blended Age Statement

  • Winner: McConnell’s Irish Whisky Sherry Cask (5 years)
  • Gold: The Dead Rabbit Irish Whiskey
  • Gold: Clan Colla 13 Year Old

Blended Limited Release

  • Winner: Writers’ Tears Japanese Cask Finish
  • Gold: Dunville’s 1808 “Casked in Bond” Dick Mack’s Honey & Hemp IPA Cask, Cask No. 1451
  • Gold: Writer’s Tears Inniskillin Ice Wine

Peated Irish Whiskey

  • Winner: Micil Single Cask Release with Garavan’s Bar
  • Gold: Killowen Barántúil Single Cask KD202
  • Gold: Celtic Cask 47 Daichead a Seacht 2016 Peated Oloroso

Single Cask 11 Years & Younger

  • Winner: Celtic Cask 44 Daichead a Ceathair 2014 PX Cask Finish
  • Gold: Dunville’s PX 11 Year Old Single Malt Cask Strength
  • Gold: Dunville’s 11 Year Old Palo Cortado Cask Strength

Single Cask 12 Years & Older

  • Winner: Dunville’s 22 Year Old Palo Cortado Cask No. 1204
  • Gold: Dunville’s 20 Year Old Oloroso Cask Strength Cask No. 990 56.2% ABV
  • Gold: Dunville’s 21 Year Old PX Sherry Cask Finish – James J. Fox Single Cask

Cask Strength

  • Winner: Connacht Distillery Exclusive Cask Strength
  • Gold: Redbreast 12 Year Old Cask Strength
  • Gold: Dunville’s 20 Year Old PX Cask Strength, Cask 1644, 55% ABV

Single Grain

  • Winner: The Bridge – Galey Bay
  • Gold: The Bridge – Inny Bay
  • Gold: Method and Madness Single Grain

New Irish Whiskey

  • Winner: Pearse Genesis Irish Whiskey
  • Gold: Fercullen Single Malt
  • Gold: Fercullen Estate Series ‘The Gates’

Many of the award winners are available in the U.S. and Canada. They can also be ordered directly from the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin, Ireland.

Happy New Year!

Sláinte mhaith

BC’s 2023 Movers and Shakers

These are the wineries from British Columbia that particularly caught my attention this past year. My impressions are based on several factors: the winery’s performance at both the National Wine Awards and the All Canadian Wine Championships, environmental and sustainability practices of each winery and my own thoughts.

I have listed the wineries in alphabetical order and have included several of their 2023 award winning wines. 

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Corcelettes was ranked as the second best performing small winery at this year’s National Wine Awards.  It is located on 150 acres in British Columbia’s Similkameen Valley. Charlie and Jesce Baessler blend passion, precision and science to craft their expressive, small lot premium wines. No short cuts are taken in finding balance between viticulture, the environment and winemaking.

Corcelettes first vintage was in 2011, consisting of 200 cases. They currently craft 8,200 cases of wine per year, with plans of each future vintage growing in production size.

Their portfolio includes predominantly Syrah and Pinot Noir, crafted from Similkameen grown grapes. There is also a small selection of premium wines from the Micro Lot Series; wines crafted from specially selected grapes available only in limited quantities.

In addition to this year, Corcelettes was among the Top 10 Small Wineries at the 2018, 2019 and 2021 National Wine Awards of Canada.       

This year’s Platinum and Gold award winning wines included:

  • Corcelettes 2020 Syrah Corcelettes Estate Vineyard
  • Corcelettes 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir Micro Lot Series
  • Corcelettes 2022 Oracle Rosé
  • Corcelettes 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Corcelettes Estate Vineyard
  • Corcelettes 2019 Merlot
  • Corcelettes 2020 Merlot
  • Corcelettes 2019 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Corcelettes 2020 Cabernet Franc

Deep Roots Winery

Deep Roots was awarded Best Performing Small Winery at this year’s National Wine Awards where they earned 1 Platinum, 4 Gold, 1 Silver and 4 Bronze medals.

Their Platinum and Gold winners included:

  • Deep Roots 2020 Reserve Chardonnay
  • Deep Roots 2020 Parentage Red
  • Deep Roots 2022 Gamay
  • Deep Roots 2020 Syrah
  • Deep Roots 2022 Sauvignon Blanc

Deep Roots is a family owned and operated winery situated on the clay cliffs above Okanagan Lake on the Naramata Bench, where beginning in 2003 the Hardman family began switching their 100-year-old family farm from an apple orchard to a vineyard. Today they have 19 acres of grape vines spread between two Naramata vineyards, using almost exclusively estate fruit.

Initially the grapes were all sold to CedarCreek and Lake Breeze, among others. However, that all changed in 2012 when Will Hardman broke ground to create his own winery.  There are two vineyards at two sites on the Naramata Bench where they grow Muscat, Gamay, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Malbec and Syrah grapes.

All the vineyard work is done by hand, as the Hardmans are passionate about producing grapes that are the best expressions of each varietal.

Road 13 Vineyards

At Road 13 in Oliver, B.C., they farm to protect the land. Their philosophy is that by taking care of the dirt, the dirt then can take care of the roots of the vines, thus producing the best fruit possible. Doing things right means going the extra mile, in both the vineyard and in the cellar. Winemaker, Barclay Robinson and his crew farm organically to produce the best wine possible.

Road 13’s Platinum and Gold award winning wines included the following:

  • Road 13 2020 Select Harvest GSM
  • Road 13 2013 Jackpot Sparkling Chenin Blanc
  • Road 13 2020 John Oliver Cabernet Franc
  • Road 13 2021 Viognier
  • Road 13 2020 John Oliver Petit Verdot
  • Road 13 2022 Honest John’s Rose

SpearHead Winery

SpearHead Winery of Kelowna, B.C, appears on my list of British Columbia’s list of movers and shakers for the second straight year. 

Their focus is on premium quality wine which is produced from grapes grown in their estate vineyard and from selected Okanagan Valley vineyards. The hand harvested grapes are sorted at the winery and fermented in small lots.

SpearHead produces Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling varietals.  Approximately 80% of the 15 acres of vines is comprised of Pinot Noir including four different Dijon clones, 2 California heritage clones and Pommard.  This combination of plantings enables the wine maker to select from the different characteristics of these clones to create a complex Pinot Noir from their home vineyard.  They also draw from several other vineyards in the Okanagan including Golden Retreat in Summerland and Coyote Vineyard in West Kelowna.

Their 2023 Platinum and Gold award winning wines include the following:

  • SpearHead 2020 Club Consensus Pinot Noir
  • Spearhead 2020 Golden Retreat Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2021 Saddle Block Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2021 Cuvée Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2021 Golden Retreat Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2022 Pinot Gris

Wild Goose Winery

It all began in early 1983 when founder Adolf Kruger purchased a piece of land east of Okanagan Falls.

Kruger first planted Riesling and Gewürztraminer with the intention of selling the grapes. Over the following few years, outstanding wines were produced by purchasers of the grapes leading him to the decision to make his own wine.

Wild Goose Winery became the seventeenth winery in British Columbia and was established in June 1990. The winery started producing Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Maréchal Foch. Over time Wild Goose established itself as a premium small producer of VQA wines.

In July of 2021, the Wyse family of Burrowing Owl Vineyards purchased Wild Goose Vineyards & Winery.  Wild Goose’s approach to winemaking has been to grow the highest quality fruit and then transform it into premium wines.

Wild Goose’s 2023 award winning wines include:

  • Best White Wine of the Year – 2022 Gewürztraminer
  • Best Red Wine of the Year – 2021 Pinot Noir
  • 2022 Mystic River Gewürztraminer
  • 2020 Cabernet Merlot

Sláinte mhaith