Regions

British Columbia’s Movers and Shakers for 2025

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This week I present my annual list of British Columbia wineries that most impressed me this year. This is not to suggest that these are the only great wineries in the province but simply those that attracted my attention this year.  The list varies in length from year to year as I like to focus on achievements rather than listing a specific number of wineries. The wineries are presented alphabetically as follows:

Laughing Stock Vineyards

Laughing Stock was recognized as the Best Performing Small Winery of the Year at this year’s National Wine Awards where they earned 2 Platinum, 3 Gold, 1 Silver and 2 Bronze medals. The winemaking team is led by winemaker Sandy Leier.

They aim to continually improve their wines and have been exploring a variety of fermentation vehicles over the past few years, including temperature regulated stainless tanks and the addition of eight concrete eggs. Six clay Amphorae have been acquired from Italy, in which a variety of limited production wines are produced. Complexity is added to the red wines through an extended barrel-aging program using 100% French oak in both standard barrel sizes and 500 liter puncheons.

Laughing Stock has 2 separate vineyards:

  • Naramata Bench Vineyard – The estate winery vineyard is home to all the Bordeaux grape varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec & Petit Verdot) that are included in their flagship wine, Portfolio.
  • Perfect Hedge Vineyard – Osoyoos – Since acquiring this 22-acre vineyard in 2007, it has become home to Bordeaux varieties (Merlot, Malbec & Cabernet Sauvignon) as well as Viognier and Syrah

This is Laughing Stock’s first appearance on the Movers and Shakers list.

Meyer Family Vineyards (2021, 2024

This is Meyers Family Vineyards third time on the Movers and Shakers List, having appeared previously in 2024 and 2021.

Meyer aims to produce the finest quality wines in the traditions of the Burgundy region of France. The grapes are hand-harvested, with great attention to detail and minimal winemaking intervention. The wines are produced from three main vineyards: the 6.9-hectare McLean Creek Road Vineyard in Okanagan Falls; the 1.62-hectare Old Main Road Vineyard on the Naramata Bench; and the 1.5-hectare Lakehill Road Vineyard in Kaleden. They also work with passionate quality-minded growers in Naramata and Osoyoos area to round out their portfolio of terroir-driven wines.

Winemaker Chris Carson’s philosophy is to care for the grape on the vine and maintain as much as possible a hands-off approach in the cellar to allow the true expression of the terroir. Each wine reflects the single vineyard of its origin, the soil, the climate and the slope.

The three main vineyards are:

  • McLean Creek Road Vineyard Okanagan Falls – This is the home vineyard. The vineyard was originally planted in 1994. Varietals grown include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer.
  • Old Main Road Vineyard Naramata Bench – This vineyard was originally planted in 1996 with 100% Chardonnay vines which is still the case today.
  • Lakehill Road Vineyard Kaleden – The vineyard was planted with 3 acres of Pinot Noir in 2009 and another 0.75 acres in 2019.

Mission Hill Family Estate

Mission Hill was named Winery of the Year earlier this year at the National Wine Awards, making it Canada’s only six-time winner. This is reflected in the fact that Mission Hill appeared as a Mover and Shaker previously in 2022, 2021 and 2020.

This year Mission Hill Family Estate was awarded top honours with two platinum and seven gold awards. The award winning wines are:

  • 2022 Perpetua: Platinum
  • 2022 Terroir Cabernet Franc – Member Exclusive: Platinum
  • 2023 Terroir Chardonnay – Member Exclusive: Gold
  • 2020 Compendium: Gold
  • 2022 Terroir Cabernet Sauvignon – Member Exclusive: Gold
  • 2021 Oculus – Member Release Fall 2025: Gold
  • 2020 Quatrain: Gold
  • 2023 Perpetua – Coming Spring 2026: Gold
  • 2022 Terroir Meritage – Member Exclusive: Gold

Fostering an ecosystem natural to the region supports quality grape growing, which in turn creates wine of depth and character. Bees, falcons and chickens replace pesticides and insecticides. Cover crops, earthworms and compost are used in place of chemical fertilizers.

Their practices are fundamentally rooted in Old World techniques which they now support with modern technology.

Stag’s Hollow Winery

This is Stag’s Hollow’s first appearance as a Mover and Shaker.

Larry Gerelus and Linda Pruegger started with a 10 acre vineyard in 1992 that was planted with Vidal and Chasselas varietals. The winery was later constructed in 1995. At that time, Stag’s Hollow Winery was one of only 30 wineries in British Columbia. Initially Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Vidal were grown.

In 2011, another 18 acres of land was purchased which became Shuttleworth Creek Vineyard.

The vineyards are managed sustainably, which refers to conservation, pest management, responsible water usage and efficient energy use. To maintain good biodiversity and soil health in the vineyard, chemical fungicides are not used. Instead, only organic products are applied. All canopy management is performed by hand, which reduces energy consumption as well as allowing for far more precision. A natural vegetation buffer zone is used to provide breeding grounds for beneficial insects to control unwanted pests.

The winery’s two vineyards are:

  • Stag’s Hollow Estate Vineyard – Merlot and Pinot Noir blocks, now exceeding 30 years of age, are on the southwest facing slopes of the Hollow. 
  • Shuttleworth Creek Vineyard – This land, a former hay field, was purchased in 2011, recognizing that Pinot Noir was likely to be an excellent variety for its terroir. In addition, two Spanish varieties were planted – Albariño and Tempranillo, and two Italian varieties – Dolcetto and Teroldego.

Happy New Year!

Sláinte mhaith

Ontario’s Movers and Shakers for 2025

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As the end of the year draws near, it is time to reveal my annual list of wineries that I found to be most impressive in 2025. Once again, I am not suggesting that these are the only great wineries in the province but merely those that attracted my attention this year.   The list varies in length from year to year as I like to focus on achievements rather than listing a specific number of wineries.

Without further ado, here is my list for 2025, presented in alphabetical order:

Broken Stone Winery

Broken Stone is a boutique winery that is in the heart of the Prince Edward County wine region. I was first introduced to Broken Stone’s wines in 2023 and was impressed enough that I included it in my list of movers and shakers that year. I returned to the winery again this past spring and was equally impressed again by the quality of their wines.

Their objective is to grow the highest quality grapes and craft world-class wines that are created from grapes grown in their vineyards:

  • Kuepfer Vineyard – This is the original vineyard where Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Meunier grapes are grown
  • Applehouse Vineyard – This was the home of one of the first commercial plantings in the County that produces Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay grapes.
  • King Eddie Vineyard – Varieties planted here include Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc.

The vintner continually works to improve the vineyard biodiversity and soils. They have adopted minimal winemaking approaches and use their knowledge of science and tradition to help the wines reveal their potential.

Karlo Estates Winery

Prince Edward County’s Karlo Estates first appeared on my Movers and Shakers list in 2021. Since then, it has continued to develop and improve not only their wines, but their customers’ experiences. Under the direction of their Executive Winemaker Derek Barnett and Winemaker Spencer Mayer, they have produced the first certified vegan wine in the world, and as a result are reducing their carbon impact.

Not only is the wine in their bottles certified vegan but all vineyard practices are vegan, their packaging is vegan and their restaurant menu is vegan. As a result, they have been placed on the “Top Ten Cutting Edge Wines of the World” list. 

The winery continues to provide the interesting single varietals and eclectic blends that it has become known for.

The Organized Crime Winery

I would be remiss if I failed to include the top Ontario winery at this year’s National Wine Awards. The Organized Crime earned a Platinum, 6 Gold, 4 Silver and 3 Bronze medals.

They are a second-generation, family-owned, small boutique winery located on the Beamsville Bench of the Niagara Peninsula. Owners Edward Zaski & Ania de Duleba farm the land themselves and assist in the winemaking throughout all stages of the process. Their production volumes are very small, but that hasn’t hindered them from appearing on my Movers and Shakers list previously in 2024 and 2020.

Two Sisters Vineyards

Two Sisters Vineyards began operations in 2007 guided by their passion to create exceptional wine. The winery and vineyards span over 130 acres in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. Grape varietals include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc.

The vineyards are Certified Sustainable by Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario. Two Sisters employ a science-based, decision-making process to reduce risks from grape pests in a way to minimize environmental risks. The winery also follows vegan practices as the wine fining agents that are used are vegan.

Two Sisters Vineyards was previously included as a Mover and Shaker back in 2020.

Coming up next week will be British Columbia’s 2025 list.

Sláinte mhaith

2025: A Much Better Year

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As an update to my November 9, 2024, post “2024: A Year to Remember”, I am pleased to report that the devastation resulting from the environmental disasters that plagued the 2024 growing season in British Columbia have had a reduced impact on this year’s grape harvest.

Photo credit: decanter.com

The vines that survived the destruction have recovered significantly, contrary to expectations. Most growers are now expecting a substantial crop; something that seemed unimaginable last year. The vines have proven to be much more resilient than expected. Some wineries project this year to be their largest harvest ever.

Indications are that the 2025 vintage will be of high quality as the weather has been consistently warm but without extreme heat spikes and wildfires. However, some vineyards still have crop yields of questionable quality.

Grape prices have returned to more reasonable levels, similar to what existed before the environmental challenges of the past couple of years. This will be a relief for the wineries and consumers.

Only a small number of wineries will continue to need to source grapes again from the U.S. Thus, the replacement wine program has been extended for another year. Many producers have replanted vineyards that will not be in full production for another several years.

The effects of the 2024 disaster will continue to linger for the foreseeable future. but the impact is proving not to be as devastating as first thought.

Sláinte mhaith

Bordeaux’s Sauternes Region

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The final Bordeaux winery visit on our recent trip to France was to Château La Tour Blanche in the Sauternes region. The Sauternes Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée covers approximately 2,000 hectares and includes five communes: Barsac, Bommes, Fargues, Preignac and Sauternes.

La Tour Blanche estate, like most of the Crus Classés of the appellation, is located on a ridge elevating It 60 meters above sea level. This provides good exposure of the vines and better drainage of the land. The terroir provides a gravelly surface and a clay-limestone subsoil, which give a particular character to the wines produced.

The three traditional white grape varieties of the Sauternes Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée vineyard are Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Château La Tour Blanche grows 83% Sémillon, 12% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle.

Photo credit: tour-blanche.com

The Sémillon grapes provide the structure, give the wine its beautiful Golden colour and its aromas of dried fruits, candied fruits and honey. Sauvignon Blanc produces a very fine, full-bodied, and aromatic wine and creates the beautiful freshness in the blend. The Muscadelle adds to the unique style of the wines, bringing additional aromatic complexity thanks to its delicate scent of muscat grain and its spicy notes.

Like many of the wineries in Bordeaux, Château La Tour Blanche has already taken numerous steps to improve its environmental performance. They have imposed demanding specifications on sustainable development. In recent years, they have introduced waste reprocessing and confined spraying. Château La Tour Blanche is HVE 3 certified (High Environmental Values) and is a member of the first association for the Environmental Management System (EMS) of Bordeaux Wine certified ISO 14001.

The grapes arriving at the winery are botrytized (see my post, Dessert Wines from April 18, 2020), full of sugar. Once selected on the sorting table and pressed, the grapes produce musts in which the action of Noble Rot will have produced a reduction in acidity as well as an increase in sugar content. The average yield does not exceed 10 to 15 hectoliters per hectare at the La Tour Blanche estate, due to strict selection.

Only musts reaching an average of between 20 and 22 degrees of potential alcohol are selected for the 1er Cru Classé. The slightly less concentrated juices will be used to produce the second or third wines.

Unfortunately, I was unable to attend and sample any of the wines that day because of an unexpected visit to see a Bordeaux ophthalmologist as a result of a torn retina, which is now repaired. I may have to make a return trip to the region to experience what I missed.

Sláinte mhaith

The Left Bank’s Margaux Appellation

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On my recent excursion to Bordeaux, France, I travelled to the Left Bank’s Margaux appellation where I visited Château Dauzac, which is a Margaux Grand Cru Classé according to the 1855 classification. Their vineyards span 49 hectares.

All the wines utilize gravity-flow vatting. Fermentation takes place in wooden vats with transparent double staves. The wine was aged in 100% French oak barrels (including 65% new barrels) for 15 months with racking based on tasting results.

Dedicated to the expression of terroir and dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, Château Dauzac reveals a nicely complex bouquet that slowly unfolds during aeration. On the palate, it strikes a subtle balance between the richness of its tannins and the aromatic diversity of its supple fruits, emblematic of great wines for ageing.

Cabernet Sauvignon dominates with its complexity, elegance and minerality, while Merlot adds roundness and silkiness. Always deep in colour, Château Dauzac expresses a subtle balance where fruits, flowers and spices are combined, with a complex body and tannins ensuring an emotional tasting experience.

Like many of the wineries in the region, Château Dauzac is committed to reducing its carbon footprint. They have formed a partnership with Bioboon Agrology. Together they are working toward the ecological transition of agricultural activities that promote plant health while preserving the surrounding biodiversity.

They have also planted bamboo on the estate. The bamboo acts as an essential carbon sequestration mechanism, offsetting the residual emissions of their carbon-neutral wine. This initiative reduces the environmental impact of the winery’s activities.

Château Dauzac is also investing in research and development to fight against mildew. The aim is to use natural products free of heavy metals to preserve the health of their vines and the balance of the surrounding ecosystem.

The terroir is a clay-based soil that contains deep gravel outcrops. The vines have an average age of 35 to 40 years. The grape varietals consist of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 2% Petit-Verdot. The grapes are harvested by hand in small crates and sorted on tables before and after de-stemming.

The first wine that I sampled at Château Dauzac was the 2021 “Aurore de Dauzac Margaux”, which is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. It is bright red with ruby hues and a nose of red fruit with a slightly floral expression. The flavour displays a pleasant concentration with notes of black fruit.

The second wine I tasted was the 2019 Margaux Grande Cru Classé. Château Dauzac 2019 is a wine that expresses exceptional fruit vibrancy. It is very well-balanced and composed of dense tannins that exhibit finesse and elegance. It consists of a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot.

I was surprised to see how much my wife enjoyed this wine as she usually prefers the Right Bank Merlot concentrated wines over the Left Bank Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wines. In fact, she enjoyed it so much that we decided to have some shipped home. When making the shipping arrangements we were told that the 2022 vintage would be more superior to the 2019, given the climate conditions that existed that year. The only caveat was that the 2022 would not reach its full potential for another 10 years.

We then decided that we would purchase some of the 2022 vintage as well to ship home. The 2022 wine consists of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37 % Merlot. The overall yield was small due to the lack of water but the remarkable quality will make the 2022 vintage one of the greatest ever experienced in Bordeaux.

I was pleased to learn that Château Dauzac wines are occasionally available in Ontario liquor stores. I will be eagerly awaiting the next vintage to appear on store shelves.

Sláinte mhaith

The Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux Appellation

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On the Right Bank, near the village of Bourg, I had the opportunity to visit Chateau Monconseil-Gazin, a third-generation family preserved estate winery owned by the Baudet family. The wines produced are part of the Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux appellation.

The vineyard’s hilly terrain benefits from a microclimate caused by the proximity of the estuary and the Atlantic Ocean. The clay-limestone soils rest on a soft rock substrate that is very favorable to the roots of the vines and perfect for drainage.

The 35 hectares of gentle slopes facing south and southwest predominantly grow the Merlot grape variety, complemented by Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.

The first wine that I tasted was the 2023 “Blaye Côtes De Bordeaux”, a white Sauvignon. The vines are cultivated according to the sustainable agriculture charter for the development and protection of the terroir. No chemical fertilizers are used.

The wine consists of 100% Sauvignon Blanc that is aged on fine lees, which are the smaller, more gradual sediment that settles at the bottom of a fermentation vessel after winemaking. The fine lees age with the wine, adding complexity, texture, and flavour. The wine is bottled at the Château.

The terroir is a clay-limestone on stony subsoil, providing excellent drainage and deep roots. The slopes face south-southwest, ensuring optimal maturity of the grapes.

This wine’s aroma contains notes of citrus and flowers and has a smooth crisp palate. The finish is long, fresh and fruity.

The second wine I had was the “Blaye Côtes De Bordeaux – Blanc Prestige”, made of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon. This wine releases an elegant nose of lychee and citrus fruit complemented by a light oakiness. The palate is dense and smooth, with a freshness that lingers through to the finish.

The third wine I sampled was the 2020 “Blaye Côtes De Bordeaux” red. Once again, the vines are cultivated according to the sustainable agriculture charter for the development and protection of the terroir, using no chemical fertilizers.

The wine is produced from 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Malbec grapes. It is aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, then blended and lightly filtered before being bottled at the Château.

The terroir is clay-limestone hillsides on a stony subsoil, excellent for drainage and rooting.  The vineyard slopes are south/southwest facing, ensuring optimal maturity of the grapes.

The flavour has hints of woody and toasty accents accompanied by notes of violet, blackberry, crème de cassis, tobacco leaf and sage. There is an abundance of young fruit with tannins and acidity.

This wine has had more than twenty years of recognition by the most prestigious competitions in France and internationally: Mâcon, Paris, Aquitaine, Challenge International du Vin, Brussels and London.

The last wine I tasted was the 2019 “Grande Réserve”, which is made from 50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec and 10% Cabernet Franc. The wine was matured in French oak barrels (50% new) for 18 months, blended and lightly filtered and then bottled at the Château.

This wine offers ripe fruit and notes of mocha, toast and vanilla. The tannins are tight and the flavours are full.

This wine has been recognized by the most prestigious competitions and specialist magazines such as the HACHETTE Guide, the Revue des Vins de France, Decanter and In Vino Veritas.

My wife and I enjoyed this one enough that we purchased a bottle to drink after our day’s explorations. Unfortunately, Chateau Monconseil Gazin wines are not currently available in Ontario liquor stores.

Sláinte mhaith

The Médoc Area of Saint-Émilion

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The first area I explored on my recent trip to France’s Bordeaux region was Médoc, which is situated on the Right Bank. The name Médoc is synonymous with exceptional wines. Considered as one of the world’s leading red wine producers, Médoc has been a winemaking region since the 18th century, with more than 16,000 hectares of vineyards across eight sub-appellations.

In Médoc, which is part of the Saint-Émilion appellation that has over 800 Chateaux, I visited the family-owned winery, Château Fleur Cardinale. The terroir consists of a mix of clay and limestone. Typical of Right Bank wineries, their wines consist of a blend of around 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The blended portions vary slightly from year to year depending on the yield of each grape varietal.

La Maison Cardinale was established in 2001, when Dominique and Florence Decoster acquired Château Fleur Cardinale. In 2017, their son Ludovic and his wife Caroline took the reins of the family estate. In 2024, they created La Maison Cardinale, an entity that brings together Château Fleur Cardinale, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, and Château Croix Cardinale, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru.

They have two estates, Château Fleur Cardinale and Château Croix Cardinale. Château Fleur Cardinale covers 27.6 hectares on the northern slope, producing a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé. The northern slope is also ideal to produce Fleur Cardinale white, in the Bordeaux appellation. Château Croix Cardinale covers 4 hectares on the southern slope, producing a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru.

While there I had the opportunity to sample 2023 “Cardinal Flower Intuition Saint-Emilion Grand Cru” and the 2019 “Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru”. The Intuition had an intense aromatic profile of ripe black fruits. There were subtle tannins and a supple, fresh texture. The Grand Cru Classé had a sensation of fresh and intense fruit, both on the nose and in the mouth. In my opinion it was much smoother and better balanced than the Cardinal Flower Intuition.

The grapes for both wines are picked by hand. There are about 15,000 bottles of Cardinal Flower Intuition produced each year and 105,000 bottles of the Grand Cru Classé. About 80% of the wine is sold to wine agents for export with the balance being sold from the winery. Unfortunately, Château Fleur Cardinale wines do not appear to be available in Ontario liquor stores.

Sláinte mhaith

My Adventure to Bordeaux

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I recently returned from a trip to the Bordeaux region of France where I took advantage of the opportunity to experience some of the finest wines in the world.

The effects of climate change are impacting the grape harvests there the same as they are in many other parts of the world. The region is facing increasing temperatures and drought conditions each year. Not helping matters is the governing regulation that prohibits vineyards to irrigate vines that are more than 3 years old.

To help try and offset the effects of climate change, I saw horses being used in place of tractors to till the weeds that were growing between the rows of grape vines, lessening the need for herbicides and reducing the generation of carbon monoxide.

The Bordeaux region is separated into 2 distinct areas: the Left Bank and the Right Bank. To help identify which is which, the city of Bordeaux is situated on the Left Bank.

Bordeaux’s wine areas are often categorized into five main zones, primarily based on their location in relation to the Gironde, Garonne, and Dordogne rivers. These zones are: The Médoc, Graves and Sauternais, The Libournais, Blaye and Bourg and Entre-Deux-Mers.  During our trip I visited wineries on both the Left Bank and Right Bank.

The Left Bank, often referred to as the Médoc and Graves, produces red wines, while the Right Bank, including Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, also focuses on red wines. Entre-Deux-Mers produces both red and white wines, and the Graves and Sauternais are known for their sweet white wines.

There are five Bordeaux wine classifications. These classifications serve as an expression of quality and prestige worldwide. The principle of the crus classés (“classified growths”) illustrates the synthesis of a terroir’s typical characteristics and dedicated human intervention over many generations to ensure quality. However, a wine or appellation can still be outstanding even if it is not a part of these classifications. The classifications are listed in order of seniority:

  • The 1855 classification
  • The Graves classification
  • The Saint-Émilion classification
  • The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc classification
  • The Crus Artisans classification

For a winery in Bordeaux to be referred to as a Château, the property must include a large house, vineyards and a place to make wine.

The age of the vines impacts the quality of the Bordeaux wine. The older the vine, the more expensive the wine. The roots on old vines extend much deeper and extend further int the soil. This adds minerality to the fruit, which in turn adds complexity to the flavour of the wine.

One thing I found interesting on this trip was how the various winery staff pronounced Cabernet Franc. I was always under the impression that Cabernet Franc was pronounced as the French do, with the ‘c’ in Franc being silent – ka·br·nay frong, but I now found out that it is acceptable to pronounce it in English as ka·br·nay frank.

Over the next few weeks I will describe my adventures through the region, as well as the wineries I had the opportunity to experience.

Sláinte mhaith

Portugal’s Douro Valley Wine Region

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The Douro Valley is the oldest established wine region in the world, dating back to 1756. It was first renown for its Port production. However, from a tourism perspective, it has only been popular for the past couple of decades, after being declared as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001.

Photo credit: portugalbywine.com

The Douro Valley region is no longer just know for its Port, but also for an increasing number of dry red wines often made from the same native grape varieties. A much smaller number of quality white wines are also now produced.

The viticultural zone covers the steep slopes along the banks of the lower ranges of the Douro River. The river flows from northern Spain, where it is called the Duero. The river finally reaches the Atlantic Ocean at Oporto. The vineyards stretch up the steep, dry slopes on either side of the river.

There are three subregions in the Douro, each covering its own section of the river.  Of these, the Douro Superior region is the furthest inland. It is covered in terraced vineyards and takes up about 20 percent of available vineyard land in Douro.

The central part of the Douro region, centered around the village of Pinhão, is the Cima Corgo region. It is where most of the prestigious Vintage Port originates from.

Cima Corgo is the largest subregion, accounting for almost half of the valley’s total wine production. The vineyards are steep with the vines nearer the river generally ripening much earlier than those at higher elevations. For this reason, the harvest is often completed in multiple sweeps of the same vineyard.

Nearest Oporto and the coast is the Baixo Corgo subregion. This area is best suited to produce table wines. The area is cooler and wetter than the other regions and more accessible, easily enabling bulk-wine operations to function.

Both the Douro’s still and fortified wines can be made from more than 80 different grape varieties. However, the vineyards are dominated by five key varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao and Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo). Of these, aromatic Touriga Nacional is the most highly regarded, but Touriga Franca is the most planted.

As recently as twenty years ago, Portugal produced very little quality still wine. However, since then it has become world renowned not only for Port but also for its DOC Douro still wines

There are several international varieties of grapes grown in the Douro valley, particularly to produce table wines. The most common of these are Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer.

Sláinte mhaith

Ontario’s Movers and Shakers for 2024

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As the end of the year rolls around I think back to the year that was and which wineries left me with an impressionable mark. This is not to suggest that these are the only great wineries in the province; they are merely the ones that caught my attention this year.   My list varies in length from year to year as I like to focus on achievements rather than listing a specific number of wineries.

Here is my list for 2024. The wineries are presented in alphabetical order.

Henry of Pelham Family Estate

I was surprised when I checked back to my past lists and found that Henry of Pelham has never appeared until now. It was the top Ontario winery this year at the National Wine Awards.

This six-generation family farm is situated in the Short Hills Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula. In 2006, Henry of Pelham was the first vineyard to be certified as local and sustainable by Local Food Plus. They have followed Sustainable Winemaking Ontario’s world-leading standards in their farming practices since 2004. In 2017, they became one of only six Ontario wineries to be certified by the Wine Council of Ontario as following sustainable winemaking practices from vine to table.

This year’s award-winning wines included:

  • Henry of Pelham NV Cuvée Catharine Brut Rosé
  • Henry of Pelham 2022 Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay
  • Henry of Pelham 2023 Pinot Grigio
  • Henry of Pelham 2020 Speck Family Reserve Cabernet-Merlot
  • Henry of Pelham 2023 Speck Family Reserve Riesling

Peller Estates Niagara-on-the Lake

This is Peller Estates fourth appearance on my Movers and Shakers list in the past five years. This year Peller Estates placed eighth at the National Wine Awards.

The Peller Estates team has operated in Niagara-on-the-Lake, in the heart of the Niagara wine region, as a family-owned Canadian company for four generations. Their winemaker is Katie Dickieson, who has previous work experience in vineyards in New Zealand and France, as well as in Ontario and British Columbia.

Their 2024 award winning wines included:

  • Peller Estates 2020 Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Peller Estates 2022 Signature Series Sauvignon Blanc
  • Peller Estates 2021 Signature Series Estate Red
  • Peller Estates 2023 Private Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
  • Peller Estates 2023 Signature Series Vidal Oak Aged Icewine

The Organized Crime Winery

Organized Crime previously appeared as a Mover and Shaker in 2020. This year it was recognized as the fifth small winery at National Wine Awards.

Organized Crime is a second-generation, family-owned, small boutique winery located on the Beamsville Bench of the Niagara Peninsula.

They farm the land themselves and assist in the winemaking throughout all stages of the process. Their production volumes are very small as they intentionally lean towards the passion side of the business rather than the commercial.

Greg Yemen is Organized Crime’s Consultant Winemaker.

Award winning wines from 2024 included:

  • Organized Crime 2022 Sacred Series Cuvée Krystyna Chardonnay
  • Organized Crime 2020 Pipe Down
  • Organized Crime 2020 Sacred Series Tara Block Pinot Noir Unfiltered
  • Organized Crime 2020 Cabernet Franc Unfiltered
  • Organized Crime 2023 Riesling

Thirty Bench Wine Makers

Thirty Bench Wine Makers has previously appeared three times on the Movers and Shakers list, last in 2022. This year they were fifth at the National Wine Awards.

Thirty Bench is committed to “Small Lot” winemaking, which means that many of their wines are made in extremely limited numbers. With Riesling vineyards dating back as far as 1980, they are proud to be considered one of Niagara’s first true boutique wineries.

The Thirty Bench Wine Makers portfolio includes a diverse range of award-winning wines across nine varietals.

2024 award winning wines included:

  • Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Riesling Wood Post Vineyard
  • Thirty Bench 2022 Winemaker’s Blend Cabernet Franc
  • Thirty Bench N/V Sparkling Riesling
  • Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Chardonnay ‘Extended Barrel Aged’
  • Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard

Vieni Estates

Placing tenth at this year’s National Wine Awards, this is Vieni Estates first appearance on the Movers and Shakers list.

Vieni Estates brings the passion for wine from Italy and combines it with the love for this Canadian wine region. Located in the rolling hills of the Vinemount Ridge along the Niagara Escarpment, master winemaker Mauro Salvador takes the best of the many varietals grown on the estate to produce a broad range of still wines, ice wines and sparkling wines.

In addition to the many fine wines produced here, Vieni Estates also offers traditional Italian-style grappas and spirits distilled from the many fruits of Ontario.

This year’s award winning wines included:

  • Vieni Estates 2022 Cabernet Franc
  • Vieni Estates N/V Sparkling Apple Cider
  • Vieni Estates 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve
  • Vieni Estates 2020 Aglianico Reserve
  • Vieni Estates 2023 Novello Nouveau Gamay Noir

Final Thoughts

The list of award-winning wines includes only a sampling from each winery in order to provide you with an idea of the noteworthy wines each winery produces. It is not an all-inclusive list.

As this is the final post for 2024, I would like to wish you all a safe and happy New Year!

Sláinte mhaith