Rhine River Cruise

My wife and I recently returned from a Rhine River cruise where we had the opportunity to sample wines from Switzerland, France and Germany during our travels. I was most anxious to try some Swiss wines as I had never had the opportunity of tasting any. These wines are not often available outside of Switzerland (see The Wines of Switzerland from May 1, 2021). 

The first Swiss wine we tried was a 2022 Weinbau Ottiger Pinot Noir. The wine is very similar in character to a French Pinot Noir.  The second sampling was a red blend from Château Constellation sa 1950 Sion, called “Humagne Rouge”.  It has a spicy bouquet characterized by notes of pine and cinnamon. It has accents of black fruit aromas balanced by silky tannins. It was very enjoyable.

We ventured through Strasbourg, France and the Alsace wine region. World-renowned for its viticulture, Alsace has a dry mild climate, favourable soils and ideal exposure to the sun for its vineyards. The white wines produced here rival the Rieslings created in neighbouring Germany.

While in Breisach, Germany, the tour offered a wine tasting at Domaine Albert Seltz, Alsatian Vineyards.  There they follow a rigorous process to preserve the authenticity of their wines, respecting traditional techniques while integrating the most recent advances in technology. Sustainable viticultural practices are followed that promote biodiversity and respect for nature.

The area surrounding Breisach, the capital of Alsatian wines, has the third largest wine co-op in the world, following California and South Africa. Twelve million litres of wine are produced there each year, taking advantage of being the sunniest place in all of Germany.

We also visited Rüdesheim, which is a German winemaking town in the Rhine Gorge, and part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is in the heart of the Rheingau wine region.

Close to Speyer, Germany lies the Roter Hang wine area.  It is considered to be one of the most important vineyard sites in the world, sitting to the south of Mainz, not far from Nierstein and Nackenheim. The soil is red, the result of red slate that exists throughout the region, providing the perfect conditions for outstanding wines that are characterised by unmistakeable flavour.

Further north at the intersection of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers is the town of Koblenz.  Koblenz is a principal seat of the Mosel and Rhenish wine trade. Mosel is best known for growing some of the finest Riesling grapes in the world. 

The vineyards are found tiered along the hillsides of the Moselle River. The steepest vineyard slopes in all of Europe are found here. Some of the grape vines are planted in vertical rows while others are in horizontal rows. The grapes planted vertically are machine groomed vines while those planted horizontally are generally on the steepest slopes and are maintained totally by manual labour.

Along the Moselle River in Winningen we visited the Weingut Rüdiger Kröber winery where we sampled four different Riesling wines ranging from dry to sweet; the 2022 “Kröber Weingut Steinig Riesling” dry, the 2022 “Kröber Weingut Uhlen Laubach” dry, the 2022 “Kröber Weingut Winninger Brückstück Riesling Feinherb” semi dry and the 2021 “Kröber Weingut Winninger Röttgen Kahimer Riesling Alte Reben” sweet. I found the Uhlen Laubach to be my favourite as it was robust with character and full of flavour.

The winery’s vineyards are up to 28 terraces in height along the slope of the hills. Weingut Rüdiger Kröber grows 90% Riesling, 5% Pinot Blanc and 5% Pinot Noir varietals. The vines range from 50 to 80 years in age.  The winery produces 60,000 bottles of wine per year and like many of the wineries in the region, it is all sold locally to individuals and restaurants.

Now that we have returned home from the Rhine, my wife and I are in the midst of planning our next wine excursion, which will be along the Rhone River in France during the spring of 2024.

Sláinte mhaith

The Wines of Switzerland

Switzerland may be a little known wine producing nation but it has been making wine for more than two thousand years. Swiss wine’s lack of fame is not due to any lack of quality or quantity, but because it is produced mostly for the Swiss themselves.

The Swiss consume nearly all the wine they make. In 2016, Swiss residents drank 89 million litres of domestic wine which made up only about a third of the total 235 million litres of wine they drank.  They export only about 1% of their wine production and the majority of that goes mainly to Germany.

Things are gradually changing as the world is beginning to discover the high quality of Swiss Pinot Noir and white wines made from the locally grown Chasselas.

Switzerland possesses multi-cultural influence.  The Germanic wine influence is demonstrated by a preference for varietal winemaking and crisp, refreshing wine styles, and is most prevalent in the German-speaking north between Zurich and the Rhine. French influences are felt mostly in the French-speaking south-west in Geneva, Vaud and Valais.  Switzerland’s favourite grape varieties – Chasselas, sometimes referred to as “Fendant”, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Merlot are all of French origin.

Do to the terrain, Swiss wines are some of the world’s most expensive. Many vineyards are inaccessible to tractors and other vineyard machinery so most work is done by hand.  This substantially increases production costs.  This does have an advantage; when grapes are harvested by hand, there is an obvious incentive to favour quality over quantity.

The Chasselas white wine grape is gradually giving up production to more popular ‘international’ varieties like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.  Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Gewurztraminer are also grown in Swiss vineyards.

Red wines now outnumber whites in Switzerland. Pinot Noir, also known as Blauburgunder, is the most widely produced and planted variety in the country, making up almost 30% of wines produced.  Chasselas represents just over a quarter of all wines.

The next most popular wine in the red category is Gamay. It is often blended with Pinot Noir to produce “Dôle” wines.

Also significant among Swiss red wine grapes is Merlot. Syrah has also done well here, even if only in the warmest parts of the country.

Wine has been produced in Switzerland for more than 2,000 years. As in France, the spread of viticulture during the Middle Ages was mainly driven by monasteries.

Today the Swiss wine industry has about 16,000 hectares of vineyards that produce about 100 million liters of wine each year.

The government body in charge of the Swiss appellation system, the OIC, has a separate title for each of the country’s three official languages: “Organisme Intercantonal de Certification” in French, ‘Interkantonale Zertifizierungsstelle” in German and “Organismo Intercantonale di Certificazione” in Italian.  The OIC is responsible for delineating the official Swiss wine regions and creating wine quality guidelines and laws. The OIC is reportedly in talks to bring their labelling practices into line with European standards even though the country is not a member of the European Union.

I myself have never had the opportunity to try Swiss wine but I will keep an eye out for it whenever I cruise the aisles in the Vintages section of my local liquor store.

Sláinte mhaith