My wife has a strong dislike for Chardonnay but a fond love for Chardonnay Musqué. This raised the question in my mind, what makes Chardonnay Musqué different from Chardonnay? Is there truly a discernible difference? My wife argues that absolutely there is.
I set forth on a research expedition to determine if there is a difference, and if so, why.
What I learned is that Chardonnay Musqué is an aromatic mutation of the Chardonnay grape. It is grown principally in the vineyards of Canada’s Niagara Peninsula and New York’s Finger Lakes.
The typical Chardonnay Musqué wine is off-dry, medium bodied, and has the distinctive, grapey, Muscat-like aroma. Depending on the region and producer, other flavours and aromas might range from tropical fruit to cinnamon-tinged lemon sorbet.
There are over 40 different clones of Chardonnay, but only two of these can be called “Musqué” due to their aromatic qualities. For you techies they are Clone 77 and Clone 809. These wines are generally unoaked in order to preserve the fresh and fragrant aromas natural to the grape. This is the reason why my wife likes it so much (she has a real aversion to any oaked white wine)
Several Ontario vineyards are now planted with musqué clones and the grapes may be used as either part of a blend or bottled on their own.
Generally these wines are best when consumed relatively young. The aromas of Chardonnay Musqué are reminiscent of Viognier or even Torrontes, and it can be made in a range of styles from dry to a little sweet to quite sweet, sometimes even with a slight spritz.
Chardonnay Musqué can be enjoyed on its own on a warm spring or summer day, or paired with mild curries, sushi, salads, grilled salmon, or seafood.
There are several Ontario wineries using one or both Chardonnay Musqué clones in their wines. Trail Vintner’s Weiss uses Chardonnay Musqué as part of a Riesling Chardonnay Musqué blend, while other producers, such as Chateau des Charmes, Cave Spring Cellars, and Vineland Estates, prefer to bottle the clone on its own.
A few Ontario Chardonnay Musqués:
Chateau des Charmes
Paul Bosc, founder of Chateau des Charmes, chose the particularly fragrant and interesting Clone 809 for his Chardonnay Musqué. Only about 500 cases are bottled by the winery annually. The 2015 vintage is available from the winery or online for $14.95.
Cave Spring Cellars
Cave Spring Cellars 2016 Chardonnay Musqué is made from 100% Chardonnay Musqué Clone 77. This wine is fermented in stainless steel and unoaked so as to maintain every nuance of the delightful aromatics of the Chardonnay Musqué grape. It’s a wine of refinement and class. Floral, yes, but it also offers bright citrus, tropical fruit, peach and a hint of vanilla aromas. Try it with green salads or shrimp Pad Thai. It is available from the LCBO for $17.95.
Vineland Estates
Their 2016 Chardonnay Musqué is available from the winery or online for $17.95. The wine is described as having an abundance of warm summer melon, lime zest and tangerine aromas that roll in the glass while the welcomed edge of acidity focuses and the perfect trace of a bitter finish.
Trail Vintner’s Weiss
The 2017 Riesling Chardonnay Musqué blend is available at the LCBO for $19.95. According to Natalie MacLean it is a delightful, vibrant white wine blend of Riesling and Chardonnay Musqué grapes form Prince Edward County. It has aromas of daisies, lychee, apple blossom and white peach, and is balanced with racy acidity for shellfish and vegetarian dishes.
If you are a fan of Chardonnay, and unoaked Chardonnay in particular, trying Chardonnay Musqué would be well worth your while; just ask my wife.
Personally, I find Portuguese wines a bit of a mystery. Although there are some excellent creations being produced, they don’t seem to receive the same notoriety as wines from Italy, Spain or France.
Because Portugal’s wine culture developed in relative isolation, there are many grape varieties that do not grow anywhere else in the world. There are over 250 indigenous varieties and a few imports that have adapted well to the Portuguese landscape. According to many wine experts, Portugal is the last frontier of wine in Western Europe explored. So with all the excitement this region offers, let’s take a look at what there is to know about the major wines and the regions.
DOC (or DOP) – DOC stands for Denominação de Origem Controlada and means the wine comes from a strictly defined geographical area with recommended and permitted grapes and maximum vine yields (to control quality). Technically there are 31 DOCs in Portugal although 3 of them overlap, making it seem more like 28.
Vinho Regional (or IGP) – Portugal is divided into 14 regional wine areas which have less strict rules for controlling which types of grapes are used, as well as maximum vine yields. While this implies that the wines will not be as high quality, many producers in Portugal use the Vinho Regional designation to create excellent wines using grapes or blends not allowed in DOC.
Vinho (Wine): The most basic classification of Portuguese table wine. These wines are generally not distributed outside of Portugal.
Each region is managed by a regional “Wine and Vine” commission, the Comissão Vitivinícola Regional (CVR). Each CVR supervises and controls the quality regulations in order to ensure quality and to maintain each region’s individual character.
Portuguese Wine Terms
Vinho Tinto – Red Wine
Vinho Branco – White Wine
Quinta – Wine farm. You’ll often find this word as part of a winery’s name on the label of wines.
The Wine Regions
Douro Region
Port is the most famous, and most copied, wine from Portugal and it grows in the Douro Valley.
Wines of Douro
Port – Fortified sweet wines; specifically LBV Port, Tawny Port, and Vintage Port wines which are the best and made by blending “port grapes” which include Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Tinta Barrocca and Tinto Cão among many others.
White Port and Pink Port – Beyond the red Port there are also Port wines made with the rare white wine varieties in the region. Rosé Port is relatively new.
Tinto Douro – Full-bodied red wines. The same red grapes of Port wine are used to create full-bodied, tannic, age-worthy red wines.
Douro Branco – Light-bodied white wines. Douro Branco are crisp, minerally white wines with very little fruity flavour, subtle flinty notes and salinity, and high acidity. Douro white wines are a little harder to find and include the white Port varieties of Rabigato, Viosinho, Gouveio, and Folgazão.
Terras de Cister (Távora e Varosa) Region
Terras de Cister – Sparkling wines
This area produces wines with much more elegance and acidity than Douro, making it ideal for sparkling wines. There are a growing number of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards being planted along with the regional varieties of Malvasia Fina (aromatic white), Cerceal (light white), Gouveio (light white), Aragonês (aka Tempranillo), Tinta Barroca (red) and Touriga Franca (red) among others.
Transmontano (Trás-Os-Montes) Region
Tinto Transmontano – Full-bodied red blends
The most common wine from this area is Transmontano, which is a regional red blend. Wines are full-bodied, punchy, with higher alcohol levels.
Minho (Vinho Verde) Region
Vinho Verde wines are best served young when the wine is at its peak of aromatics and crisp acidity.
Wines of Minho
Branco Vinho Verde – Light-bodied white wines. Wines often have a slight spritz and fruity, lemonade-like flavors with notes of melon, gooseberry and chalky texture. White Vinho Verde wines are made with a blend of several grape varieties including Arinto, Azal, Trajadura, Loureiro and Alvarinho (a.k.a Albariño).
Rosado Vinho Verde – Rosé. The Rosado wines offer red berry flavors with quenching acidity like lemonade. The reds/rosés of Vinho Verde are found primarily in the southern part of Minho in the sub-regions of Amarante and Paiva. Red grape varieties include Alvarelhão, Amaral, Borraçal, Espadeiro, Padeiro (quite rare).
Alentejo Region
The Alentejo region contains many progressive and modern wineries making red wines that offer generous fruit and mocha flavors with refined tannins from careful wood aging strategies. White wines from the Alentejo range from medium-bodied refreshers to full-bodied in a style similar to Chardonnay.
Wines of Alentejo
Tinto Alentejo – Full-bodied red wines that are typically blends made with Aragonês (Tempranillo), Trincadeira, Castelão, Alfrocheiro and Alicante Bouschet.
Branco Alentejo – Light-bodied and full-bodied white wines made with Arinto (fuller in style), Antão Vaz (fuller in style), Roupeiro and Fernão Pires (an aromatic white variety).
Alentejano (IGP/Vinho Regional) – Full-bodied red and white wines from a larger encompassing region that may include non-indigenous grape varieties (Viognier and Syrah are growing in popularity here).
Lisboa Region
There are many wines from the various regions in Lisboa (Alenquer, Bucelas) that are already making their way into stores internationally. While there is great quality found in Lisboa (Bucelas, Colares, Alenquer, Arruda) most of the wines you’ll find available are great for everyday drinking.
Wines of Lisboa
Alenquer – Concentrated, high tannin red wines made with Castelão, Alfrocheiro, Aragonês (Tempranillo) and Touriga Nacional
Bucelas – Light-bodied, citrus and beeswax-driven, age-worthy white wines made with Arinto. .
Arruda – Full-bodied red wines that often include international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah
Colares – Very rare find. Golden colored, full-bodied white wines in an oxidative style made with Malvasia Fina
Óbidos and Lourinhã – Light-bodied aromatic white wines particularly with Fernão Pires
Torres Vedras – simple, low-alcohol refreshing white wines.
Setúbal Region
The region of Setúbal is famous for a fantastic rich, deep gold colored dessert wine called Moscatel de Setúbal
Dão Region
Wines from the Dão are lighter in style than in the Douro but have shown to age very well because of the tannin and acidity development from growing in high altitude areas with rugged soils of decomposing granite and schist (similar to Douro and Priorat).
Wines of Dão
Dão Alfrocheiro – Medium-bodied red wine with red berry flavors, licorice and spice notes
Dão Jaen (a.k.a. Mencía) – Full-bodied red wine. Raspberry and black cherry flavors with moderately high acidity and mouth-drying tannin.
Dão Touriga Nacional – Full-bodied red wine. Deep black fruit flavors with chocolate and mocha with refined tannins and medium plus acidity
Terras do Dão and Terras de Lafões – The Vinho Regional wines of the Dão with more experimentation and blends that include international varieties (Indi blends)
Tejo Region
Tejo plants all kinds of grapes, from Alvarinho (the grape of Vinho Verde) to the full-bodied blackish Alicante Bouschet. This is a good region for getting super value from Portugal.
Wines of Tejo
Red “Indi” Blends – Blends consisting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira and Castalão
White “Indi” Blends – Consists of blends with Fernão Pires (an aromatic white wine), Arinto, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay
Beira Atlântico (Bairrada) Region
Baga is the highly productive red grape of Beira, grown in Bairrada. From the aromatic and delightfully pink sparkling wines by Luis Pato to the soft, structured light-bodied red wines by Niepoort, this area is one of the new frontiers of winemaking for the Portuguese.
Wines of Beira Atlântico
Tinto Bairrada – Made from Baga and ranging from dense, tar-like, high acid reds to delicate, red fruit-driven wines with finely textured tannins and the ability to age.
Branco Bairrada – Made from the aromatic Fernão Pires (called Maria Gomes here), Bical and Arinto
Sparkling “Brut” Bairrada – Delicious beeswax-driven sparkling wines made with early picked Baga and Fernão Pires.
The Beira Interior
The most mountainous region in Portugal has one of the most challenging climates to produce grapes. With a shorter growing season the reds have red-fruit driven flavors with herbaceous smoky notes and a juicy finish while the white wines tend to be lean with chalky minerality. There are many old vines here as well as producers using native yeasts and organic viticulture.
Wines of the Beira
Tinto Beira – Red fruit-driven wines of Murufo, Bastardo, Alfrocheiro, Trincadeira and Touriga Nacional
Branco Beira – Lean, chalky white wines of Síria, Arinto, Malvasia
Madeira & Pico Island (Azores)
Verdelho is the main regional white wine grape. Wine from Pico is golden, viscous liquid that is hauntingly sweet, tart and somewhat salty with a smokiness from the volcanic landscape. Madeira, on the other hand, has the most collected and appreciated fortified wines in the world.
Algarve Region
There are nearly 2500 acres / 1000 hectares of grapes in the Algarve. The wines aren’t designed to age, but there is hope in particular for red wines with Alicante Bouschet, Syrah and Aragonês (Tempranillo). These drought-climate varieties still manage to have juicy acidity and create more smoky sweet, dusty notes on the finish somewhat reminiscent to South Australia.
The wines of Portugal are well worth a try. The wines are both good and available at a favourable price point.
The vineyards of Australia cover 170,000 hectares in different wine regions in New South Wales (NSW), South Australia, Victoria, Western Australia, Tasmania and part of Queensland.
Australia has become the 7th biggest wine producing country having about 1,200 million litres of wine produced each year. With the country’s own consumption representing less than 40% of the production, Australia is the 4th largest wine exporter.
Australia has spent millions of dollars to build a brand around Shiraz (Australia’s word for Syrah). As a result Australia wine production has tripled since 1990. However, despite this success, Australian wines have suffered some serious drawbacks in the media. Wine critics often disregard most Aussie wine as “Critter Wines”, referring to the cute animal designs that adorn many of the wine labels.
Australia’s main grape varietals are Shiraz followed by Chardonnay. The two varieties make up 44% of the total wine production. However, Australia is working toward diversification. The balance of production comes from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Riesling, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Grenache, Sangiovese, Mourvèdre and Pinot Gris.
The Wine Regions
Margaret River (Western Australia) produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Shiraz.
Barossa (South Australia) produces Shiraz.
Coonawara (South Australia) produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, and Merlot.
Adelaide Hills (South Australia) produces Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Gris.
McLaren Vale (South Australia) produces Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay.
Clare Valley (South Australia) produces Chardonnay, Sémillon, and Riesling.
Hunter Valley (New South Wales) produces Sémillon, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Yarra Valley (Victoria) produces Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Rutherglen (Victoria) produces Shiraz and Durif.
Heathcode (Victoria) produces Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Mornington Peninsula (Victoria) produces Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Tasmania produces Riesling and Pinot Noir.
The grape varietals produced in Australia are bolder than the same varietals grown in the northern hemisphere, in places like France, Germany, or Canada. However, if you prefer the bolder spicier flavours, Australian wines may be right for you.
The impact on the wine industry from the wild fires currently raging in Australia remains to be seen. More than 3.4 million hectares of land have already been destroyed. Previously the most land burned during an entire fire season was only 280,000 hectares.
Vines not destroyed by the fires could still be impacted by the smoke. Bushfire smoke can permeate the skin of the grapes as they ripen, causing wine to have an unpleasant smoky characteristic. It is worse in red wine, when the skins are used to create colour.
Experts say it is still too early to determine what the extent of the fires will have on the 2020 harvest.
Grape growers are facing a second problem; record high temperatures which have reached the upper 40’s Celsius. Extreme heat can cause leaves to droop or even drop off, leaving grapes exposed to sunburn. This causes discolouration and affects the flavour profile of the wine.
The effect of heat can be managed provided vineyards still have access to enough water – which they don’t in many areas across South Australia, central and northern Victoria, and NSW.
As we prepare to enter 2020, no one seems to face more challenges than the Australians. I fear that some of the Australian wines the world enjoys today may soon disappear forever. A sobering thought to close out 2019.
Spain seems to fly under the radar compared
to neighbouring France when it comes to wine notoriety. Spain is actually the
third largest wine producer in the world and has the most land dedicated to
vineyards, having over a million acres. Spanish wines range from great value to
the highly prestigious.
There are over 60 different regional districts
producing everything from light and zesty Albariño to inky black Monastrell.
Spain consists of 7 distinct climate regions
which are described as follows:
Northwest
“Green” Spain
Galicia is the only sub-region where lush
green valleys are plentiful and the common cuisine includes lots of fresh fish.
Albariño is the champion grape of the sub-region called Rias Baixas (REE-us
BYE-shus), which skirts the coast. The area specializes in zesty white wines
and a few aromatic red wines made with Mencía (men-THI-yah) grapes.
Mediterranean
Coast
The coast is a very diverse macro-region
that contains the sub-regions of Valencia, Catalonia and Murcia. Catalonia is
known for Cava (Spanish sparkling wine) and a highly acclaimed red wine
sub-zone, Priorat. Valencia and Murcia are warmer growing regions that produce
a bulk of value wines from deep red Monastrell to aromatic white Malvasia and
the widely planted Airén.
Ebro
River Valley
The sub regions of La Rioja and Navarra are found in the Ebro River Valley. Here, Tempranillo is king and long-standing bodegas such as Lopez de Heredia and Marques de Murrieta make age-worthy wines. Navarra is known mostly for rosado (rosé) wine made with the Garnacha (aka Grenache) grape. The region also produces oak-aged white wines of Viura (Macabeo). In Basque country, zesty white wines called Txakoli (pronounced “CHAK-o-li”) are common.
Duero
River Valley
The Duero River is the same river as the
Douro in Portugal. This region is notable for the minerally white wine,
Verdejo, of Rueda and the bold red wines of Toro, Ribera del Duero and Leon.
The wine grape of this region is Tempranillo and in Toro it’s called Tinta de
Toro, where it is considered to be a slight mutation of the Tempranillo grape.
Central
Plateau
The central plateau or Meseta Central is the
inner plateau of Spain which is home to the capital city, Madrid. Some of the
best value red wines of Spain can be found here made of Garnacha, Tempranillo
and even the rare, Petit Verdot.
Andalucía
Andalucía is a very hot and dry region famous for Sherry. The even hotter, Montilla-Moriles produces fortified dessert wines that are called PX. An aged PX, such as those from Bodegas Toro Abala, have similar nutty-date flavors like Tawny Port.
The
Islands (includes The Canary Islands)
The Islands of Spain offer a wide range of
wines from Listan Negro-based reds to dessert wines made with Moscatel. The
volcanic soils of the Canary Islands add a gritty taste of rustic minerality.
Currently, there are very few exporters of the limited wines of the Islands of
Spain although you can find a few from places like Tenerife.
My personal favourite Spanish wines include
the red wines of Rioja, which are typically developed from the Tempranillo
grape and primarily blended with the Garnacha grape.
Rioja wines are classified by the amount of
time spent aging in barrels and bottles before they are offered for sale. The classifications are legal terms that
indicate the quality level and aging requirements.
Crianza wines are aged in oak barrels for a
minimum of one year. They then must be
bottled a few months before being available for sale.
A Reserva
wine must be oaked for a minimum of a year followed by at least 2 years in the
bottle before being sold.
Lastly, Gran
Reserva wines are made only with the best grapes, which have been
hand-picked. These wines must spend a minimum
of 2 years in an oak barrel with an additional 3 years in the bottle before
being sold.
Generally speaking, Rioja wines have a much better price point than similar quality wines from other countries. Spain produces excellent wines at an affordable price and are well worth considering the next time you are shopping for wine.
Italy governs its wine industry in a similar manner as the French by using an appellation system of wine categorization. There are 21 regions that contain a rather large number of red and white varietals. Many of these grapes, such as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah, are common throughout many parts of the new and the old world.
Other varietals such as, Barbera, Corvina,
Molinara, Nebbiolo, Rondinella, Sangiovese, and Trebbiano, are more exclusive
to Italy. It is these grapes that give
Italian wines their distinguished flavour.
Italian
Whites
Italian white wines come in varieties that
run from sparkling and sweet to smooth and fruity to crisp and dry. The
following variety of whites will generally be found at your local wine merchant:
Asti is a sparkling wine
made from Moscato grapes in Piedmont. It
is a sweet wine and low in alcohol, with fruity and floral flavors.
Frascati is composed mainly
from Trebbiano grapes. It is generally dry or slightly off-dry, light-bodied,
and un-oaked.
Gavi is made from
Cortesa grapes which create this dry, medium-bodied wine from Piedmont. It is
generally un-oaked or slightly oaked.
Orvieto is generally a medium-bodied
wine made mainly from Grechetto grapes in the Umbria region. It is dry, and crisp,
with fruit undertones.
Pinot
Grigio
is a light-bodied, dry, crisp wine that contains no oak. It is made from Pinot Gris grapes.
Soave is produced in the
Veneto region. This wine mainly consists
of Garganega grapes, which give it a dry, crisp, un-oaked, and light- or
medium-bodied flavour.
Verdicchio is a dry,
medium-bodied, crisp white wine. It is made from Verdicchio grapes in the
Marche region.
Italian
Reds
As with the whites, the reds come in a
variety of styles.
Amarone is a full-bodied
wine produced from partially-dried Corvina grapes. It is a dry and firm wine but does have a
hint of sweetness. It is best paired
with rich, savoury foods or flavourful cheeses.
Barbaresco is similar to
Barolo (described below), as it is produced from the same Nebbiolo grapes. However, it is generally a little lighter in
body and a little less expensive. This wine is one that can usually be laid
down for some time. It is best from
between 8 and 15 years of age.
Barbera is mainly produced
in the Piedmont region. It is characteristically dry, light- or medium-bodied, and
has an intense berry flavor, lots of acidity, and but little tannin.
Barolo is one of my
personal favourites. It is dry and
full-bodied. Barolo is produced from
Nebbiolo grapes in Piedmont and contains complex aromas and flavours. It is a
wine that improves with age and is best enjoyed at 10 to 20 years of age,
depending on the producer.
Brunello
di Montalcino
is a full-bodied, intense, concentrated wine produced from Sangiovese grapes from
Tuscany. Dry and quite tannic, it is best enjoyed when it’s at least 15 years
old.
Chianti is a very dry,
medium-bodied, moderately tannic wine that is created mainly from Sangiovese
grapes from Tuscany. “Chianti Classico” is often the best. Wines labeled “riserva”, and more expensive
wines, are generally more concentrated and can be aged for a period of time.
Lambrusco is most commonly a
sweet, fizzy wine. It is made from
Lambrusco grapes usually from the Emilia-Romagna region. These wines are also available in both dry and
sparkling styles.
Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo is
generally a medium-bodied wine but there are some lighter variations. It is a very easy-drinking wine that is
produced in the Abruzzo region.
Salice
Salentino
is a dry, full-bodied wine produced from Negroamaro grapes in part of the
Puglia region. Generally it has intense aromas and flavors of ripe, plummy,
baked fruit, and rich, dense texture. It is best paired with robust foods so as
not to over-power the meal.
Valpolicella is a medium-bodied
wine created mainly from Corvina grapes in the Valpolicella area of the Veneto
region. It is dry, lean, and only
moderately tannic, with more or less intense cherry aromas and flavors. Some
versions, such as single-vineyard wines, are particularly good.
Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano is medium-bodied, dry, and lean, with red cherry
flavor, similar to Chianti but slightly fuller. It is produced from Sangiovese grapes in
Montepulciano, in the Tuscany region.
If you are not familiar with Italian wines
there are a number that I would recommend trying. If you like white wine, Pinot Grigio and
Verdicchio are worth a taste. From a red
perspective, I suggest both Chianti and Valpolicella. There is a good selection of both available
in a moderate price range. However, if
you are willing to spend a little more, Barbaresco and Barolo are well worth
the investment.
Wine glasses are specifically shaped and
sized for each particular type of wine.
White wine, having a much more subtle aroma and taste than a red wine,
has a smaller bowl and mouth. This is to
better capture the aroma for the nose, as well as minimize the exposure to
oxygen, so as not to release the more subtle flavour too quickly.
In addition to the standard white wine
glass, there are also Chardonnay glasses.
These glasses are generally the same height as a standard white wine
glass but the bowl and mouth are wider.
This is to allow the wine to be better oxygenated, resulting in a bolder
bouquet and flavour for the pleasure of the drinker.
Sparkling wine glasses, or Champagne Flutes
as they are often referred to, are much narrower and taller than white wine
glasses. This allows for further
enhancement of the bouquet of the wine.
Also, by minimizing the surface area at the top of the glass, the
bubbles will be more concentrated and last longer.
Red wine glasses vary in shape and size for
the various varietals of grapes. A Pinot
Noir glass is tulip shaped containing a rather wide bowl before narrowing and
then flaring wider at the mouth. The
theory is that this shape of glass provides for the optimum balance of
sweetness, acidity and alcohol.
Zinfandel and Bordeaux glasses are very
similar in shape and size with the Bordeaux glass being slightly taller. These glasses are designed this way in order
to allow the wines to breathe and enhance the flavour of the wine. Given the strong similarity between the two
glasses, personally, I doubt the average wine drinker, including myself, would ever notice a difference if a Bordeaux
was served in a Zin glass or vice versa.
The Cabernet glass is the tallest of all the
wine glasses. It has a slightly larger
bowl and mouth than the other glasses mentioned. The Cabernets, including Cabernet , Cabernet
Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as, Syrah or Shiraz, would benefit from being
served in this style of glass. The shape
and size of this glass helps moderate the higher acid content of these wines,
as well as allowing for the full bodied aromas to be released.
The most unique red glass is the Burgundy
glass, which is shaped like a fish bowl with a wide bowl, basically no neck and
a wide mouth. The idea behind this glass
is to enhance the acidity and intensity of Burgundy style wines.
For anyone opting to have a single red and
white wine glass, I would recommend the standard white wine glass and the
Cabernet glass.
There are two common styles of wine glasses,
stem and stemless. Personally I prefer a
glass with a stem so the heat from my hand is not transferred to the wine
inside the glass.
There is a much argued debate over glass
versus crystal. There are those who say
that a crystal glass provides much better flavour. Personally, I would like to see that proven
in a blind taste test. I can see where
psychologically if you know you are drinking from a $100 crystal glass versus a
much less expensive glass vessel the psychological aspect may provide a more
rewarding experience. However, I am very
sceptical and other than feeling the difference in the weight of the 2 glasses
in your hand, I am not convinced the type of glass impacts the wine’s flavour
as some suggest is the case. However,
after saying all this I do have an assortment of crystal wine stemware in the
cupboard.
People sometimes shy away from French wine
because they are unable to determine what type of wine they are selecting. No where will you see the varietal of grape
identified. This is because France
identifies its wines using the Appellation System, a complex system of laws that
define each wine region and its boundaries and imposes strict rules around
winemaking practices.
Most appellations take the form of place
names, such as Champagne or Bordeaux. What this means is that the grapes grown
in each region are consistent with all of the wine producers within that
region. This becomes the key to
understanding what grapes are contained within a particular French wine.
Here is a brief explanation of what grapes
are grown in each of the appellations.
Hopefully this will help you crack the code to identify the varietals
found in French wines.
Alsace
Alsace is the only French wine region to
grow significant quantities of Riesling and Gewurztraminer grapes, as well as
Pinot Gris.
Alsace Grand Cru wines are general only
allowed to be made from these three varieties but may also contain some Muscat.
Chasselas, Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois are
also grown although these three varietals tend to be used only in blends.
There are some red wines produced in the
region as well, mainly from Pinot Noir. Alsace
Pinot Noirs are typically lighter-bodied and more rustic than the majority of
Pinot Noir wines produced in France.
Bordeaux
Bordeaux is produced in the southwest of
France. The majority of Bordeaux wines
are the dry, medium- and full-bodied red Bordeaux Blends. There are some high-quality
white wines as well, both dry styles and the sweet, botrytized varieties. Botrytis is a type of fungus that generates
sugar and sweetness in the grapes.
Most Bordeaux reds are made from a blend of
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot is
the most common red wine grape in Bordeaux, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and
then Cabernet Franc. Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenère are also permitted, but
only make up around two percent of the red grape total.
Bordeaux’s white wines are generally blends
of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Sauvignon Gris the only other
white variety that is permitted.
Burgundy
The two key grape varieties of Burgundy are
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Gamay and Aligote are also grown throughout the
region, producing more rustic styles of wine. Gamay is used in the red and rosé
wines.
Beaujolais
Beaujolais is famous for its vibrant, fruity
red wines made from Gamay.
Pinot Noir is used in small quantities in
red and rosé wines, but is being phased out. Although best known for its red
wines, the region also produces white Beaujolais Blanc, from Chardonnay and Aligote.
Champagne
Champagne is the name of the world’s most
famous sparkling wine. While it has been used to refer to sparkling wines from
all over the world, Champagne is a legally controlled and restricted name.
Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay are
the primary grape varieties used to make Champagne.
The key Champagne styles differ in their
color, sweetness, base grape varieties, and whether they are the product of a
single vintage or several (referred to as Non-Vintage). The whites may be
either Blanc de Noirs (made from black-skinned grapes), Blanc de Blancs (made
from green-skinned grapes) or just plain Blanc (made from any combination of
the permitted varieties). Pink Champagne Rosé is made either by adding red wine
to a white blend or sometimes by fermenting the juice in contact with the
skins. These types all come with varying degrees of sweetness.
Cognac
Cognac is the world’s most famous brandy. It is graded in three official tiers, which
reflect how long the spirit spent in barrel. VS (Very Special) is the lowest
tier and means the brandy has been stored for a minimum of two years in casks.
VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) is the middle tier and denotes Cognac that has
been aged for at least four years. XO is the finest grade and is reserved
exclusively for those cuvees aged for six years or more.
Corsica
Corsica is an island in the Mediterranean
Sea, located between the southeast coast of Provence and the west coast of
Tuscany. Although it is closer to Italy, Corsica is governed by France. The
island’s Italian origins are evident in its wines, which are made predominantly
from the Italian classics Vermentino and Sangiovese.
Corsica’s wines have both a French and
Italian influence. Pinot Noir, Grenache, Tempranillo and Barbarossa are all grown
there alongside one another.
Grenache is a primary ingredient in many
Corsican red wines and Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsaut and Carignan all play a
variety of supporting roles.
The only white varietal is Vermentino/Rolle.
Coteaux
du Lyonnais
These wines are of a lighter style similar to
those produced in Beaujolais. The red wines are produced from Gamay grapes.
A small amount of white wine is made from
Chardonnay and Aligoté. Occasionally some Pinot Blanc is added to the blend.
These are traditionally dry, floral styles, some of which are matured in oak
barrels for up to a year to produce a slightly more structured, weighty
version.
Jura
Jura is a small wine region in eastern
France.
The five main grape varieties used in the
region are Poulsard, a red grape which accounts for about one-fifth of the
region’s plantings; Trousseau, the other local red variety, covers only the
warmest 5% of Jura’s vineyards; White Savagnin, which is responsible for the
idiosyncratic vins jaunes (‘yellow wines’);
Pinot Noir; and Chardonnay.
Dry white wines are also made in Jura,
increasingly from Chardonnay as are dry red wines produced from Pinot Noir.
Loire
The Loire Valley is a key wine region in
western France.
White wines are the Loire Valley’s best
wines, and account for the vast majority of production. The key white-wine
grape varieties used to make Loire Valley whites are Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin
Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne and, more popular than traditional, Chardonnay.
Loire reds are of increasingly high quality.
The number one red-wine variety is
Cabernet Franc. Lighter-bodied red wines are made from Pinot Noir, Malbec
(known here as Côt) and Gamay.
Moselle
Moselle is an appellation covering white,
red and rosé wines. While Auxerrois
Blanc, Muller-Thurgau and Pinot Gris are the principal varieties set out in the
appellation law, Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Blanc are permitted in the
white wines in limited amounts.
The reds must be made entirely of Pinot
Noir, but Moselle rosés may have a proportion of Gamay.
Provence
Provence is a wine region in the far
southeastern corner of France, best known for its rosé wines.
Traditional varieties such as Carignan,
Barbaroux (Sardinia’s Barbarossa) and Calitor are being replaced by more
commercially viable grapes like Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The more successful local varieties
Mourvèdre, Tibouren and Vermentino are incorporated in Provence’s red, rosé and
white wines respectively.
Rhône
The Rhône Valley is a key wine-producing
region in the southeast of France. The
smaller, more quality-driven northern section focuses on Syrah for red wines
and Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne for whites. The larger south region contains a much
longer list of varieties; the most notable of these are the red Grenache Syrah and
Mourvedre, which are combined to produce the ‘GSM’ blend.
Savoie
Savoie is a wine region in eastern France. Around three-quarters of the region’s wines
are white. Jacquère is the most widely
planted white grape variety. Altesse,
known traditionally here as Roussette, is used to produce some of Savoie’s
finer wines.
As in many other areas of France, Chardonnay
is increasingly being planted in Savoie. It is used in still and sparkling
wines.
Although Savoie is dominated by white wines,
it does have a standout red variety, Mondeuse. Gamay and Pinot Noir are also grown.
These are lighter in style than their respective counterparts in Beaujolais and
Burgundy.
Personally, I am most attracted to the reds
of the Rhône. I find them to be very
versatile, being both full bodied and flavourful while at the same time being
smooth. They are suitable for pairing
with a favourite meal or simply enjoyed on their own.
No matter what your likes or dislikes, don’t
allow yourself to be intimidated by foreign wine labels. Be adventurous and go exploring.
It is usually quite easy to identify the varietals contained in new world wines, such as those from Australia, North America or South America, and some European countries such as Germany. These producers often display the varietal or blend as part of the label. On the other hand some countries and regions, such as France and Italy, do not follow the same practice.
In France the wines are usually identified
by the region in which they are grown.
The same is true for some German, Italian and Spanish wines. This can
make it very confusing for you when trying to find a certain type of wine for
your drinking pleasure. The good news is
that both France and Italy label their wines in a consistent fashion so once
you understand their naming conventions it is easier to determine the varietals
the wines consist of. The effort to
understand these naming conventions, which are buried deep in their wine making
history, will be well rewarded as it will provide you with great drinking
pleasure for years to come.
In both
France and Italy the grapes grown are unique to each geographic region. By taking note of which regions are renowned
for the type of grapes you enjoy, you will be able to select one of these wines
with more certainty than by just grabbing a bottle off the shelf randomly, or
worse yet, avoiding them altogether.
From there you may find a particular winery or two or ten that you have
a craving for.
In the weeks ahead I will
tackle unravelling the mysteries many of the European wines and decipher the
meaning of what appears on their labels.
I am sure it is no surprise that the
varietal (type of grape) a wine is composed of has the most significant impact
on taste. Generally speaking, white
wines are much more subtle and delicate in flavour compared to reds, which are
bolder and richer in flavour.
There is also a range of flavour and
intensity, as well as sweetness within each of the whites and reds. The depth of flavour and sweetness of the
grapes is impacted by where the grape is grown and to a lesser extent, the
characteristics of each individual growing season, whether it being warmer,
cooler, wetter, and/or dryer.
The warmer the climate, the more intense the
flavour of the grapes. This is because
warmer climates have longer growing seasons, thus giving the grapes more time
to develop and enhance their flavour.
There are micro climates within regions as well, which have a comparative effect on the flavour and richness of the wines produced. For example, within Canada, wines grown in British Columbia will generally have a bolder flavour than those grown in Ontario. This is because the Okanagan Valley where the bulk of B.C.s grapes are grown is a warmer location with a longer growing season than the wine regions of Ontario.
Wines will sometimes be categorized by
dryness while other times they are assessed based on the intensity of their
flavour, sometimes referred to as “body”.
Retailers will typically display ratings based on dryness, that is, the
amount of natural sugars present in the wine.
Dryness or sweetness does not always relate
directly to whether the wine has a bold or mild flavour. The body or boldness of the flavour will be
more dependent on the type of grape, the amount of tannin and acid in the wine,
as well as the region the grape was grown in.
For example, an Australian or Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon will most
likely have a much more intense flavour than a similar wine from France or
Canada.
The more tannin and alcohol content in a
wine, the fuller the taste. The reverse
is true for the level of acidity within the wine; the higher the levels of
acidity, the less bold the taste of the wine.
Since darker coloured fruit usually has more
intense flavour, the darker the colour of the wine, the more intense the
flavour will be. The colour of a wine
doesn’t help though when purchasing a wine from a merchant since the bottles
are usually coloured preventing you from seeing the natural colour of the wine.
Light bodied wines are considered to be
those with an alcohol level of 12.5% or less whereas medium bodied wines have
alcohol content between 12.5% and 13.5%.
Finally, any wine with an alcohol level of 13.5% or above is considered
full bodied.
The grape content within a wine is not
always easily identifiable by simply reading the label. In France for example, wines are identified
only by the region in which they are produced, such as Bordeaux or Burgundy. An upcoming article will discuss how to
identify the varietals contained in wines that are only identified on the
bottle only by region or type.
A Layman's Wine Musings 