Spain seems to fly under the radar compared
to neighbouring France when it comes to wine notoriety. Spain is actually the
third largest wine producer in the world and has the most land dedicated to
vineyards, having over a million acres. Spanish wines range from great value to
the highly prestigious.
There are over 60 different regional districts
producing everything from light and zesty Albariño to inky black Monastrell.
Spain consists of 7 distinct climate regions
which are described as follows:
Northwest
“Green” Spain
Galicia is the only sub-region where lush
green valleys are plentiful and the common cuisine includes lots of fresh fish.
Albariño is the champion grape of the sub-region called Rias Baixas (REE-us
BYE-shus), which skirts the coast. The area specializes in zesty white wines
and a few aromatic red wines made with Mencía (men-THI-yah) grapes.
Mediterranean
Coast
The coast is a very diverse macro-region
that contains the sub-regions of Valencia, Catalonia and Murcia. Catalonia is
known for Cava (Spanish sparkling wine) and a highly acclaimed red wine
sub-zone, Priorat. Valencia and Murcia are warmer growing regions that produce
a bulk of value wines from deep red Monastrell to aromatic white Malvasia and
the widely planted Airén.
Ebro
River Valley
The sub regions of La Rioja and Navarra are found in the Ebro River Valley. Here, Tempranillo is king and long-standing bodegas such as Lopez de Heredia and Marques de Murrieta make age-worthy wines. Navarra is known mostly for rosado (rosé) wine made with the Garnacha (aka Grenache) grape. The region also produces oak-aged white wines of Viura (Macabeo). In Basque country, zesty white wines called Txakoli (pronounced “CHAK-o-li”) are common.
Duero
River Valley
The Duero River is the same river as the
Douro in Portugal. This region is notable for the minerally white wine,
Verdejo, of Rueda and the bold red wines of Toro, Ribera del Duero and Leon.
The wine grape of this region is Tempranillo and in Toro it’s called Tinta de
Toro, where it is considered to be a slight mutation of the Tempranillo grape.
Central
Plateau
The central plateau or Meseta Central is the
inner plateau of Spain which is home to the capital city, Madrid. Some of the
best value red wines of Spain can be found here made of Garnacha, Tempranillo
and even the rare, Petit Verdot.
Andalucía
Andalucía is a very hot and dry region famous for Sherry. The even hotter, Montilla-Moriles produces fortified dessert wines that are called PX. An aged PX, such as those from Bodegas Toro Abala, have similar nutty-date flavors like Tawny Port.
The
Islands (includes The Canary Islands)
The Islands of Spain offer a wide range of
wines from Listan Negro-based reds to dessert wines made with Moscatel. The
volcanic soils of the Canary Islands add a gritty taste of rustic minerality.
Currently, there are very few exporters of the limited wines of the Islands of
Spain although you can find a few from places like Tenerife.
My personal favourite Spanish wines include
the red wines of Rioja, which are typically developed from the Tempranillo
grape and primarily blended with the Garnacha grape.
Rioja wines are classified by the amount of
time spent aging in barrels and bottles before they are offered for sale. The classifications are legal terms that
indicate the quality level and aging requirements.
Crianza wines are aged in oak barrels for a
minimum of one year. They then must be
bottled a few months before being available for sale.
A Reserva
wine must be oaked for a minimum of a year followed by at least 2 years in the
bottle before being sold.
Lastly, Gran
Reserva wines are made only with the best grapes, which have been
hand-picked. These wines must spend a minimum
of 2 years in an oak barrel with an additional 3 years in the bottle before
being sold.
Generally speaking, Rioja wines have a much better price point than similar quality wines from other countries. Spain produces excellent wines at an affordable price and are well worth considering the next time you are shopping for wine.
Italy governs its wine industry in a similar manner as the French by using an appellation system of wine categorization. There are 21 regions that contain a rather large number of red and white varietals. Many of these grapes, such as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah, are common throughout many parts of the new and the old world.
Other varietals such as, Barbera, Corvina,
Molinara, Nebbiolo, Rondinella, Sangiovese, and Trebbiano, are more exclusive
to Italy. It is these grapes that give
Italian wines their distinguished flavour.
Italian
Whites
Italian white wines come in varieties that
run from sparkling and sweet to smooth and fruity to crisp and dry. The
following variety of whites will generally be found at your local wine merchant:
Asti is a sparkling wine
made from Moscato grapes in Piedmont. It
is a sweet wine and low in alcohol, with fruity and floral flavors.
Frascati is composed mainly
from Trebbiano grapes. It is generally dry or slightly off-dry, light-bodied,
and un-oaked.
Gavi is made from
Cortesa grapes which create this dry, medium-bodied wine from Piedmont. It is
generally un-oaked or slightly oaked.
Orvieto is generally a medium-bodied
wine made mainly from Grechetto grapes in the Umbria region. It is dry, and crisp,
with fruit undertones.
Pinot
Grigio
is a light-bodied, dry, crisp wine that contains no oak. It is made from Pinot Gris grapes.
Soave is produced in the
Veneto region. This wine mainly consists
of Garganega grapes, which give it a dry, crisp, un-oaked, and light- or
medium-bodied flavour.
Verdicchio is a dry,
medium-bodied, crisp white wine. It is made from Verdicchio grapes in the
Marche region.
Italian
Reds
As with the whites, the reds come in a
variety of styles.
Amarone is a full-bodied
wine produced from partially-dried Corvina grapes. It is a dry and firm wine but does have a
hint of sweetness. It is best paired
with rich, savoury foods or flavourful cheeses.
Barbaresco is similar to
Barolo (described below), as it is produced from the same Nebbiolo grapes. However, it is generally a little lighter in
body and a little less expensive. This wine is one that can usually be laid
down for some time. It is best from
between 8 and 15 years of age.
Barbera is mainly produced
in the Piedmont region. It is characteristically dry, light- or medium-bodied, and
has an intense berry flavor, lots of acidity, and but little tannin.
Barolo is one of my
personal favourites. It is dry and
full-bodied. Barolo is produced from
Nebbiolo grapes in Piedmont and contains complex aromas and flavours. It is a
wine that improves with age and is best enjoyed at 10 to 20 years of age,
depending on the producer.
Brunello
di Montalcino
is a full-bodied, intense, concentrated wine produced from Sangiovese grapes from
Tuscany. Dry and quite tannic, it is best enjoyed when it’s at least 15 years
old.
Chianti is a very dry,
medium-bodied, moderately tannic wine that is created mainly from Sangiovese
grapes from Tuscany. “Chianti Classico” is often the best. Wines labeled “riserva”, and more expensive
wines, are generally more concentrated and can be aged for a period of time.
Lambrusco is most commonly a
sweet, fizzy wine. It is made from
Lambrusco grapes usually from the Emilia-Romagna region. These wines are also available in both dry and
sparkling styles.
Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo is
generally a medium-bodied wine but there are some lighter variations. It is a very easy-drinking wine that is
produced in the Abruzzo region.
Salice
Salentino
is a dry, full-bodied wine produced from Negroamaro grapes in part of the
Puglia region. Generally it has intense aromas and flavors of ripe, plummy,
baked fruit, and rich, dense texture. It is best paired with robust foods so as
not to over-power the meal.
Valpolicella is a medium-bodied
wine created mainly from Corvina grapes in the Valpolicella area of the Veneto
region. It is dry, lean, and only
moderately tannic, with more or less intense cherry aromas and flavors. Some
versions, such as single-vineyard wines, are particularly good.
Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano is medium-bodied, dry, and lean, with red cherry
flavor, similar to Chianti but slightly fuller. It is produced from Sangiovese grapes in
Montepulciano, in the Tuscany region.
If you are not familiar with Italian wines
there are a number that I would recommend trying. If you like white wine, Pinot Grigio and
Verdicchio are worth a taste. From a red
perspective, I suggest both Chianti and Valpolicella. There is a good selection of both available
in a moderate price range. However, if
you are willing to spend a little more, Barbaresco and Barolo are well worth
the investment.
Wine glasses are specifically shaped and
sized for each particular type of wine.
White wine, having a much more subtle aroma and taste than a red wine,
has a smaller bowl and mouth. This is to
better capture the aroma for the nose, as well as minimize the exposure to
oxygen, so as not to release the more subtle flavour too quickly.
In addition to the standard white wine
glass, there are also Chardonnay glasses.
These glasses are generally the same height as a standard white wine
glass but the bowl and mouth are wider.
This is to allow the wine to be better oxygenated, resulting in a bolder
bouquet and flavour for the pleasure of the drinker.
Sparkling wine glasses, or Champagne Flutes
as they are often referred to, are much narrower and taller than white wine
glasses. This allows for further
enhancement of the bouquet of the wine.
Also, by minimizing the surface area at the top of the glass, the
bubbles will be more concentrated and last longer.
Red wine glasses vary in shape and size for
the various varietals of grapes. A Pinot
Noir glass is tulip shaped containing a rather wide bowl before narrowing and
then flaring wider at the mouth. The
theory is that this shape of glass provides for the optimum balance of
sweetness, acidity and alcohol.
Zinfandel and Bordeaux glasses are very
similar in shape and size with the Bordeaux glass being slightly taller. These glasses are designed this way in order
to allow the wines to breathe and enhance the flavour of the wine. Given the strong similarity between the two
glasses, personally, I doubt the average wine drinker, including myself, would ever notice a difference if a Bordeaux
was served in a Zin glass or vice versa.
The Cabernet glass is the tallest of all the
wine glasses. It has a slightly larger
bowl and mouth than the other glasses mentioned. The Cabernets, including Cabernet , Cabernet
Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as, Syrah or Shiraz, would benefit from being
served in this style of glass. The shape
and size of this glass helps moderate the higher acid content of these wines,
as well as allowing for the full bodied aromas to be released.
The most unique red glass is the Burgundy
glass, which is shaped like a fish bowl with a wide bowl, basically no neck and
a wide mouth. The idea behind this glass
is to enhance the acidity and intensity of Burgundy style wines.
For anyone opting to have a single red and
white wine glass, I would recommend the standard white wine glass and the
Cabernet glass.
There are two common styles of wine glasses,
stem and stemless. Personally I prefer a
glass with a stem so the heat from my hand is not transferred to the wine
inside the glass.
There is a much argued debate over glass
versus crystal. There are those who say
that a crystal glass provides much better flavour. Personally, I would like to see that proven
in a blind taste test. I can see where
psychologically if you know you are drinking from a $100 crystal glass versus a
much less expensive glass vessel the psychological aspect may provide a more
rewarding experience. However, I am very
sceptical and other than feeling the difference in the weight of the 2 glasses
in your hand, I am not convinced the type of glass impacts the wine’s flavour
as some suggest is the case. However,
after saying all this I do have an assortment of crystal wine stemware in the
cupboard.
People sometimes shy away from French wine
because they are unable to determine what type of wine they are selecting. No where will you see the varietal of grape
identified. This is because France
identifies its wines using the Appellation System, a complex system of laws that
define each wine region and its boundaries and imposes strict rules around
winemaking practices.
Most appellations take the form of place
names, such as Champagne or Bordeaux. What this means is that the grapes grown
in each region are consistent with all of the wine producers within that
region. This becomes the key to
understanding what grapes are contained within a particular French wine.
Here is a brief explanation of what grapes
are grown in each of the appellations.
Hopefully this will help you crack the code to identify the varietals
found in French wines.
Alsace
Alsace is the only French wine region to
grow significant quantities of Riesling and Gewurztraminer grapes, as well as
Pinot Gris.
Alsace Grand Cru wines are general only
allowed to be made from these three varieties but may also contain some Muscat.
Chasselas, Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois are
also grown although these three varietals tend to be used only in blends.
There are some red wines produced in the
region as well, mainly from Pinot Noir. Alsace
Pinot Noirs are typically lighter-bodied and more rustic than the majority of
Pinot Noir wines produced in France.
Bordeaux
Bordeaux is produced in the southwest of
France. The majority of Bordeaux wines
are the dry, medium- and full-bodied red Bordeaux Blends. There are some high-quality
white wines as well, both dry styles and the sweet, botrytized varieties. Botrytis is a type of fungus that generates
sugar and sweetness in the grapes.
Most Bordeaux reds are made from a blend of
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot is
the most common red wine grape in Bordeaux, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and
then Cabernet Franc. Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenère are also permitted, but
only make up around two percent of the red grape total.
Bordeaux’s white wines are generally blends
of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Sauvignon Gris the only other
white variety that is permitted.
Burgundy
The two key grape varieties of Burgundy are
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Gamay and Aligote are also grown throughout the
region, producing more rustic styles of wine. Gamay is used in the red and rosé
wines.
Beaujolais
Beaujolais is famous for its vibrant, fruity
red wines made from Gamay.
Pinot Noir is used in small quantities in
red and rosé wines, but is being phased out. Although best known for its red
wines, the region also produces white Beaujolais Blanc, from Chardonnay and Aligote.
Champagne
Champagne is the name of the world’s most
famous sparkling wine. While it has been used to refer to sparkling wines from
all over the world, Champagne is a legally controlled and restricted name.
Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay are
the primary grape varieties used to make Champagne.
The key Champagne styles differ in their
color, sweetness, base grape varieties, and whether they are the product of a
single vintage or several (referred to as Non-Vintage). The whites may be
either Blanc de Noirs (made from black-skinned grapes), Blanc de Blancs (made
from green-skinned grapes) or just plain Blanc (made from any combination of
the permitted varieties). Pink Champagne Rosé is made either by adding red wine
to a white blend or sometimes by fermenting the juice in contact with the
skins. These types all come with varying degrees of sweetness.
Cognac
Cognac is the world’s most famous brandy. It is graded in three official tiers, which
reflect how long the spirit spent in barrel. VS (Very Special) is the lowest
tier and means the brandy has been stored for a minimum of two years in casks.
VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) is the middle tier and denotes Cognac that has
been aged for at least four years. XO is the finest grade and is reserved
exclusively for those cuvees aged for six years or more.
Corsica
Corsica is an island in the Mediterranean
Sea, located between the southeast coast of Provence and the west coast of
Tuscany. Although it is closer to Italy, Corsica is governed by France. The
island’s Italian origins are evident in its wines, which are made predominantly
from the Italian classics Vermentino and Sangiovese.
Corsica’s wines have both a French and
Italian influence. Pinot Noir, Grenache, Tempranillo and Barbarossa are all grown
there alongside one another.
Grenache is a primary ingredient in many
Corsican red wines and Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsaut and Carignan all play a
variety of supporting roles.
The only white varietal is Vermentino/Rolle.
Coteaux
du Lyonnais
These wines are of a lighter style similar to
those produced in Beaujolais. The red wines are produced from Gamay grapes.
A small amount of white wine is made from
Chardonnay and Aligoté. Occasionally some Pinot Blanc is added to the blend.
These are traditionally dry, floral styles, some of which are matured in oak
barrels for up to a year to produce a slightly more structured, weighty
version.
Jura
Jura is a small wine region in eastern
France.
The five main grape varieties used in the
region are Poulsard, a red grape which accounts for about one-fifth of the
region’s plantings; Trousseau, the other local red variety, covers only the
warmest 5% of Jura’s vineyards; White Savagnin, which is responsible for the
idiosyncratic vins jaunes (‘yellow wines’);
Pinot Noir; and Chardonnay.
Dry white wines are also made in Jura,
increasingly from Chardonnay as are dry red wines produced from Pinot Noir.
Loire
The Loire Valley is a key wine region in
western France.
White wines are the Loire Valley’s best
wines, and account for the vast majority of production. The key white-wine
grape varieties used to make Loire Valley whites are Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin
Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne and, more popular than traditional, Chardonnay.
Loire reds are of increasingly high quality.
The number one red-wine variety is
Cabernet Franc. Lighter-bodied red wines are made from Pinot Noir, Malbec
(known here as Côt) and Gamay.
Moselle
Moselle is an appellation covering white,
red and rosé wines. While Auxerrois
Blanc, Muller-Thurgau and Pinot Gris are the principal varieties set out in the
appellation law, Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Blanc are permitted in the
white wines in limited amounts.
The reds must be made entirely of Pinot
Noir, but Moselle rosés may have a proportion of Gamay.
Provence
Provence is a wine region in the far
southeastern corner of France, best known for its rosé wines.
Traditional varieties such as Carignan,
Barbaroux (Sardinia’s Barbarossa) and Calitor are being replaced by more
commercially viable grapes like Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The more successful local varieties
Mourvèdre, Tibouren and Vermentino are incorporated in Provence’s red, rosé and
white wines respectively.
Rhône
The Rhône Valley is a key wine-producing
region in the southeast of France. The
smaller, more quality-driven northern section focuses on Syrah for red wines
and Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne for whites. The larger south region contains a much
longer list of varieties; the most notable of these are the red Grenache Syrah and
Mourvedre, which are combined to produce the ‘GSM’ blend.
Savoie
Savoie is a wine region in eastern France. Around three-quarters of the region’s wines
are white. Jacquère is the most widely
planted white grape variety. Altesse,
known traditionally here as Roussette, is used to produce some of Savoie’s
finer wines.
As in many other areas of France, Chardonnay
is increasingly being planted in Savoie. It is used in still and sparkling
wines.
Although Savoie is dominated by white wines,
it does have a standout red variety, Mondeuse. Gamay and Pinot Noir are also grown.
These are lighter in style than their respective counterparts in Beaujolais and
Burgundy.
Personally, I am most attracted to the reds
of the Rhône. I find them to be very
versatile, being both full bodied and flavourful while at the same time being
smooth. They are suitable for pairing
with a favourite meal or simply enjoyed on their own.
No matter what your likes or dislikes, don’t
allow yourself to be intimidated by foreign wine labels. Be adventurous and go exploring.
It is usually quite easy to identify the varietals contained in new world wines, such as those from Australia, North America or South America, and some European countries such as Germany. These producers often display the varietal or blend as part of the label. On the other hand some countries and regions, such as France and Italy, do not follow the same practice.
In France the wines are usually identified
by the region in which they are grown.
The same is true for some German, Italian and Spanish wines. This can
make it very confusing for you when trying to find a certain type of wine for
your drinking pleasure. The good news is
that both France and Italy label their wines in a consistent fashion so once
you understand their naming conventions it is easier to determine the varietals
the wines consist of. The effort to
understand these naming conventions, which are buried deep in their wine making
history, will be well rewarded as it will provide you with great drinking
pleasure for years to come.
In both
France and Italy the grapes grown are unique to each geographic region. By taking note of which regions are renowned
for the type of grapes you enjoy, you will be able to select one of these wines
with more certainty than by just grabbing a bottle off the shelf randomly, or
worse yet, avoiding them altogether.
From there you may find a particular winery or two or ten that you have
a craving for.
In the weeks ahead I will
tackle unravelling the mysteries many of the European wines and decipher the
meaning of what appears on their labels.
I am sure it is no surprise that the
varietal (type of grape) a wine is composed of has the most significant impact
on taste. Generally speaking, white
wines are much more subtle and delicate in flavour compared to reds, which are
bolder and richer in flavour.
There is also a range of flavour and
intensity, as well as sweetness within each of the whites and reds. The depth of flavour and sweetness of the
grapes is impacted by where the grape is grown and to a lesser extent, the
characteristics of each individual growing season, whether it being warmer,
cooler, wetter, and/or dryer.
The warmer the climate, the more intense the
flavour of the grapes. This is because
warmer climates have longer growing seasons, thus giving the grapes more time
to develop and enhance their flavour.
There are micro climates within regions as well, which have a comparative effect on the flavour and richness of the wines produced. For example, within Canada, wines grown in British Columbia will generally have a bolder flavour than those grown in Ontario. This is because the Okanagan Valley where the bulk of B.C.s grapes are grown is a warmer location with a longer growing season than the wine regions of Ontario.
Wines will sometimes be categorized by
dryness while other times they are assessed based on the intensity of their
flavour, sometimes referred to as “body”.
Retailers will typically display ratings based on dryness, that is, the
amount of natural sugars present in the wine.
Dryness or sweetness does not always relate
directly to whether the wine has a bold or mild flavour. The body or boldness of the flavour will be
more dependent on the type of grape, the amount of tannin and acid in the wine,
as well as the region the grape was grown in.
For example, an Australian or Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon will most
likely have a much more intense flavour than a similar wine from France or
Canada.
The more tannin and alcohol content in a
wine, the fuller the taste. The reverse
is true for the level of acidity within the wine; the higher the levels of
acidity, the less bold the taste of the wine.
Since darker coloured fruit usually has more
intense flavour, the darker the colour of the wine, the more intense the
flavour will be. The colour of a wine
doesn’t help though when purchasing a wine from a merchant since the bottles
are usually coloured preventing you from seeing the natural colour of the wine.
Light bodied wines are considered to be
those with an alcohol level of 12.5% or less whereas medium bodied wines have
alcohol content between 12.5% and 13.5%.
Finally, any wine with an alcohol level of 13.5% or above is considered
full bodied.
The grape content within a wine is not
always easily identifiable by simply reading the label. In France for example, wines are identified
only by the region in which they are produced, such as Bordeaux or Burgundy. An upcoming article will discuss how to
identify the varietals contained in wines that are only identified on the
bottle only by region or type.
A Layman's Wine Musings 