For the eighth year, the British Columbia government has declared April as Wine Month in recognition of the vital role that the B.C. wine industry plays in the province’s economy, tourism and culture. Given the effects of the current economic uncertainty combined with the devastating environmental impacts of the past couple of years, this recognition is very timely.
Photo credit: winetourhub.com
B.C. Wine Month is intended to be a celebration of everything related to B.C. wine, including new 2024 vintage releases, including B.C. VQA wines, which consist of wines that are 100% produced in B.C., and for a limited time because of the 2024 environmental situation, Crafted in BC wines produced under the 2024 vintage relief and support program. See my post from November 9, 2024, “2024: A Year to Remember” for details regarding the events of 2024.
Wine Month is intended to recognize the people working in the wine and hospitality sectors who create memorable experiences for visitors from around the world that come to enjoy the wines and flavours of the region. This supports grape growers, winemakers and winery operations, increasing the market exposure to their excellent wines.
According to Wines BC (winesbc.com), there are 929 vineyards in British Columbia along with 369 licensed wineries. The B.C. wine industry generates about 3.75 billion dollars annually, contributes over 440 million dollars in federal and provincial tax revenues, and employs over 14,000 full-time workers. An estimated one million tourists are drawn to the region each year resulting in 452 million dollars in tourism-related revenue, along with 147 million dollars in tourism-related wages from over 2,600 associated jobs. This all boils down to 105 dollars being generated for the economy from every bottle of wine sold.
As the name suggests, dessert wine is a sweet wine that is intended to be served alongside dessert. These wines are often rich in flavour and have a high sugar content.
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There has been a growing demand for premium dessert wines aimed at satisfying consumer demand for high-quality and unique flavours. This has driven market growth by enticing wineries to improve and enhance their product offerings and release new artisanal options, which in turn command higher price points and increased revenue.
There is rising interest in low-alcohol dessert wines by health-conscious Millennials and the Gen Z population who desire lighter wines. These wines also appeal to a broad range of wellness seekers, thus enhancing market growth.
Again, health-conscious and ethically driven drinkers are creating demand for vegan and allergen-free wine alternatives. By excluding animal-derived fining agents, which are added to wine to alter its colour, flavour, texture, and clarity, new dessert wine markets become available. These agents include additives such as casein or gelatin.
There are generally five types of dessert wine. Thirty percent of the market is made up of fortified wines, consisting of Port, Sherry, Madeira and Marsala.
Late harvest wines are next, consisting of twenty-five percent of the dessert wine market. Included in this category are Late Harvest Riesling, Late Harvest Sémillon and Late Harvest Gewürztraminer.
Controlling twenty percent of the market is Ice Wine. Included are Eiswein and Ice Cider.
Botrytized Wines, also referred to as Noble Rot, consist of fifteen percent of the market. For an explanation of this type of wine, refer to my post, Dessert Wines from April 18, 2020. Wines in tis group include Sauternes and Tokaji Aszú.
The “Other” wine category make up the remaining ten percent of the dessert wine market. Included in this catch-all category is Recioto della Valpolicella, Vin Santo and Muscat / Moscato.
The Douro Valley is the oldest established wine region in the world, dating back to 1756. It was first renown for its Port production. However, from a tourism perspective, it has only been popular for the past couple of decades, after being declared as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001.
Photo credit: portugalbywine.com
The Douro Valley region is no longer just know for its Port, but also for an increasing number of dry red wines often made from the same native grape varieties. A much smaller number of quality white wines are also now produced.
The viticultural zone covers the steep slopes along the banks of the lower ranges of the Douro River. The river flows from northern Spain, where it is called the Duero. The river finally reaches the Atlantic Ocean at Oporto. The vineyards stretch up the steep, dry slopes on either side of the river.
There are three subregions in the Douro, each covering its own section of the river. Of these, the Douro Superior region is the furthest inland. It is covered in terraced vineyards and takes up about 20 percent of available vineyard land in Douro.
The central part of the Douro region, centered around the village of Pinhão, is the Cima Corgo region. It is where most of the prestigious Vintage Port originates from.
Cima Corgo is the largest subregion, accounting for almost half of the valley’s total wine production. The vineyards are steep with the vines nearer the river generally ripening much earlier than those at higher elevations. For this reason, the harvest is often completed in multiple sweeps of the same vineyard.
Nearest Oporto and the coast is the Baixo Corgo subregion. This area is best suited to produce table wines. The area is cooler and wetter than the other regions and more accessible, easily enabling bulk-wine operations to function.
Both the Douro’s still and fortified wines can be made from more than 80 different grape varieties. However, the vineyards are dominated by five key varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao and Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo). Of these, aromatic Touriga Nacional is the most highly regarded, but Touriga Franca is the most planted.
As recently as twenty years ago, Portugal produced very little quality still wine. However, since then it has become world renowned not only for Port but also for its DOC Douro still wines
There are several international varieties of grapes grown in the Douro valley, particularly to produce table wines. The most common of these are Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer.
During the past six years that I have been writing this blog I have always steered away from political issues. However, today I feel compelled to speak out against Canada’s one time ally, the United States. With the return of Donald Trump to the White House’s Oval Office, Canada’s economy was placed under direct attack by Trump when he decided to impose twenty-five percent tariffs on Canadian imports to the U.S., without just cause. Similar sanctions have been imposed on Mexico and China and are being threatened against the European Union.
Photo credit: Manitoba Liquor Mart
In response to these bullying tactics by Trump, and as a proud Canadian, I will no longer purchase or write about American wine until such time as Trump refrains from his attack on Canada.
Canada has been the top export market for U.S. wines and Ontario’s provincial liquor board (the LCBO) has been among the largest purchasers of U.S. alcohol. In Ontario, imported wines are primarily sold through provincially owned and operated retail outlets, although recent regulatory changes have authorized 157 private grocery retail locations to distribute wine and beer.
The first phase of Canada’s response to the U.S. imposed tariffs includes tariffs on wine and spirits, in addition to many other products. Ontario is banning American liquor and the LCBO is removing American wine, spirits and beer from its shelves. This will represent about a billion dollars worth of American alcohol.
British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland are also removing U.S. liquor from their store shelves. At last word Quebec is considering the idea. On the bright side these bans will serve to enhance the sale of Canadian wines in Canada, as well as European, Australian, South American and South African wines.
Hopefully the American people will convince Trump that the imposition of his tariffs will not only hurt international economies but his own economy as well. It is a sad situation.
Since I first wrote an introduction to the canned wine market in a post from November 5, 2022, the market has continued to expand. Just as a reminder, canned wines are wines packaged in aluminum can, that provide convenience, portability and freshness. Cans offer a modern alternative to traditional glass bottles, catering to the needs of today’s fast-paced, on-the-go lifestyles of the Millennial and Gen Z consumer segments in particular.
Aluminum cans have enabled a surge in market share within the broader alcoholic beverage industry and has permitted expansion into new international markets and emerging regions. With cans being very adaptable for use at special events and outdoor activities, their popularity continues to grow.
This has all lead to growth in the premium and higher-priced canned wine sectors and encouraged investment from both major and niche wine producers. Strategic partnerships are driving industry growth resulting in innovative can designs to help improve consumer appeal and expand distribution channels into more diverse retail formats.
Wineries have been working to enhance their flavour profiles for canned wines by incorporating flavours such as fruit-infused, botanical and exotic blends. The trend toward moderation and portion control is driving the popularity of single-serve canned wines. Consumers realise the convenience, affordability and reduced environmental impact associated with single use cans.
Canned wines seem to be here to stay and are not just a passing fad.
Anti-alcohol messaging is going to continue and it will be increased during this upcoming year. The World Health Organization (WHO) is now warning against the consumption of any alcohol. Cancer warning labels are now being proposed and will no doubt soon be applied to all alcohol packaging. These warnings will no doubt be accompanied by a reduction in alcohol consumption. However, there are several other factors that will impact alcohol sales.
To begin with, many Millennial and Gen Z consumers are focused on their physical and mental state and how they portray themselves on social media. They have come to associate alcohol with vulnerability, loss of control, anxiety and abuse. For these reasons they have reduced their alcohol consumption.
The increase in popularity of anti-obesity drugs is also having an impact. Glucagon-like peptide 1 (GLP-1), anti-obesity Semaglutide, Liraglutide, as well as Tirzepatide drugs like Saxenda, Ozempic, Wegovy and Mounjaro are now very popular. GLP-1 works by trigging the release of insulin from the pancreas, reducing glucose from entering the bloodstream, slowing digestion and increasing the ‘full’ sensation people feel after eating.
So, how does this impact wine consumption? Studies revealed that Semaglutide reduced binge-like alcohol drinking. The drugs moderated GABA, the gamma-aminobutyric acid receptors in the brain responsible for the ‘buzz’ associated with moderate consumption of alcohol.
There is growing evidence that many users of these drugs feel less inclined to drink any form of alcohol. If GLP-1 becomes as affordable and as widely used as many predict, the effect on the food and drink industries may be dramatic.
Alcohol-free beverage alternatives are becoming more popular as the quality of these products continues to improve and they gain more market acceptance. Our own kids, who are all adults, are into alcohol free alternatives, especially beer. And now with many craft breweries and estate wineries expanding their offerings to include alcohol free options, the quality of these products maintains the same standard as their alcohol-based options. If nothing else, these beverages will provide lunchtime beverage alternatives to soda or mineral water.
Some countries, such as Great Britain, are imposing a different level of excise tax based on alcohol level. For example, beginning February 1, 2025, the duty and tax on a 13.5% Alcohol by Volume (ABV)bottle of wine will be £3.59, whereas an 8.5% ABV bottle will be taxed at just £2.05.
Finland has just reduced its alcohol distribution rules. Beverages with ABVs of 8% or less can now be sold in supermarkets. Traditionally, once one Nordic nation changes the rules, the others, such as larger Sweden, tend to soon follow.
Public attitudes toward alcohol are changing. The social licence to encourage a guest to have another glass of wine or to finish off the bottle are becoming less acceptable behaviours and are being widely revoked.
As Bob Dylan wrote, “The Times They Are a-Changin”.
Ignoring cardboard and aluminum packaging options, did you know that there are seventeen glass bottle packaging sizes available for holding your favourite white or red wine? Now every wine is not available in every size as that would be cost prohibitive, but producers have lots of options for packaging their wine, depending on the market for packaging their wines.
The vessels from smallest to largest include:
Split or Piccolo – ¼ the size of a standard bottle or one glass. This is the size often served on trains and airplanes.
Half or Demi – ½ standard bottle or two glasses. This size bottle is also commonly served on trains and airplanes.
Half-litre or Jenni – 2/3 standard bottle or three glasses. This is a common size served in restaurants.
Standard – 1 standard 750 ml. bottle or five glasses. This is the most common size sold in wine stores.
Litre – 1 1/3 standard bottles or 7 glasses. This size is often produced in countries that use the metric system of measure. It is a size commonly sold to venues serving significant quantities of wine.
Magnum – 2 standard bottles or ten glasses. Some wines are available in this size at local wine stores.
Jeroboam or Double Magnum –4 standard bottles or twenty glasses.
Rehoboam – 6 standard bottles or thirty glasses.
Methuselah or Imperial – 8 standard bottles or forty glasses.
Salmanazar – 12 standard bottles or sixty glasses.
Balthazar – 16 standard bottles or eighty glasses.
Nebuchadnezzar – 20 standard bottles or one hundred glasses.
Melchior – 24 standard bottles or one hundred twenty glasses.
Solomon – 26 standard bottles or one hundred thirty glasses.
Sovereign – 35 standard bottles or one hundred seventy-five glasses.
Primat or Goliath – 36 standard bottles or one hundred eighty glasses.
Melchizedek or Midas – 40 standard bottles or two hundred glasses.
As you can now see, there are many sizes of bottles available for supplying your wine.
Is the best wine made using French oak barrels or American oak barrels? The answer depends on who is answering. I would be amiss if I didn’t mention that there are also Hungarian oak and Romanian oak but these oaks are seldomly used in making wine.
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Oak can play a crucial role in the winemaking process. It is a long-known fact that not just any wood will do when it comes to aging wine. Oak has been the choice for centuries. Due to the natural wood compounds, aging wine in oak barrels exposes complex flavours and textures that are crucial to the overall taste and structure of a wine. There are natural wood sugars in the oak that influence the wine’s flavour. The wine’s texture can be enhanced from tannins found in the oak.
French Oak is known by winemakers for its subtlety. These trees have tighter grains that deliver lower amounts of tannin that are more readily integrated into the wine. This wood is also more aromatic, producing delicate notes of dark chocolate, roasted coffee beans, vanilla and baking spices to the wine.
American Oak presents more robust flavour profiles introducing bold vanilla notes along with coconut, sweet spices and dill. The wider grain patterns of American oak also injects more tannins into the wine.
French Oak lets wine age gracefully over time. The wine will evaporate less from barrels of French oak than American oak, thus producing a naturally slower oxidation. On the other hand, American oak will often go through a more rapid oxidation process in the barrel.
When it comes to price, American oak is less expensive to purchase. This is due to it being more readily available than French oak. However, French oak produces a more luxurious wine, making it well worth the higher price tag.
So, which wines work best with French oak versus American oak? Chardonnay flourishes when aged in French oak barrels because the French oak releases delicate vanilla undertones into the flavour of the wine.
Pinot Noir also benefits from the use of French oak. This light-bodied red grape works well with the lower tannin content inherent to French oak. It allows for slow maturation without overwhelming Pinot Noir’s naturally elegant profile.
In contrast, bold reds such as Zinfandel often get paired with American oak. The intense notes of coconut and sweet spice from the American oak can complement the robust nature of these types of wine.
Wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah can work well with either French or American oak, depending on the winemaker’s desires. European winemakers tend to use French oak while American winemakers and some Australian vintners may use American oak. It all comes down to the desired style of the wine.
Many winemakers use both types of barrels or blend wines aged separately. It lets them control flavour profiles more precisely. The type of barrel used, or combination of barrels used will depend on the flavour notes the winemaker wants to achieve.
The way in which wine experts and sommeliers approach wine with their customers is changing. There is movement away from the traditional style of introducing a wine, explaining its character, aromas and flavours. The wine industry is recognizing that this change has become necessary as the younger generations, particularly Gen Z, do not embrace wine as enthusiastically as previous generations. This is resulting in a reduction in wine sales.
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There is a new group of forward-thinking sommeliers who are working to change the way wines are described when tasting and pairing. The aim is to make the industry more inclusive to the younger generation. Everything from the vocabulary used to describe flavours, to the way bottles are marketed and how wine is discussed culturally needs to change.
The traditional way of ordering wine in restaurants has often been fraught with fear by many patrons. The image of an intimidating snooty sommelier, who comes across as testing the depth of the customer’s wine knowledge and skill, is a potential embarrassment in the presence of the person’s date, spouse, family or friends. Many are left wanting the encounter to be over as quickly as possible and without feeling that they have embarrassed themselves and have selected a wine that they like without having to pay an exorbitant price.
The new generation sommeliers want the emphasis to be about creating an experience that makes the guest feel comfortable rather than fearful. Their approach is becoming directed toward how the customer is feeling and asking what they feel like drinking. The focus is on personal interaction; it’s not about the incomprehensibly complex tasting notes of the wines.
Certification of sommeliers has helped standardize baseline wine terminology and language, but it is now important to progress beyond that to provide more approachable and easier understood language for the public.
A new generation of writers, sommeliers, podcasters and influencers are beginning to challenge the traditional approach to understanding and selecting wine. Social media is playing a key role in interpreting wine due to young influencers like Wine Gini, The London Wine Girl or Carron Brown’s The Natural Sommelier. Individuals can now learn about wine in the unintimidating surroundings of their own home.
It is good to see that the wine industry’s image is beginning to change as the new generation of writers, sommeliers, podcasters and influencers are now challenging the old snobby, snooty stereotype.
As the end of the year rolls around I think back to the year that was and which wineries left me with an impressionable mark. This is not to suggest that these are the only great wineries in the province; they are merely the ones that caught my attention this year. My list varies in length from year to year as I like to focus on achievements rather than listing a specific number of wineries.
Here is my list for 2024. The wineries are presented in alphabetical order.
Henry of Pelham Family Estate
I was surprised when I checked back to my past lists and found that Henry of Pelham has never appeared until now. It was the top Ontario winery this year at the National Wine Awards.
This six-generation family farm is situated in the Short Hills Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula. In 2006, Henry of Pelham was the first vineyard to be certified as local and sustainable by Local Food Plus. They have followed Sustainable Winemaking Ontario’s world-leading standards in their farming practices since 2004. In 2017, they became one of only six Ontario wineries to be certified by the Wine Council of Ontario as following sustainable winemaking practices from vine to table.
This year’s award-winning wines included:
Henry of Pelham NV Cuvée Catharine Brut Rosé
Henry of Pelham 2022 Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay
Henry of Pelham 2023 Pinot Grigio
Henry of Pelham 2020 Speck Family Reserve Cabernet-Merlot
Henry of Pelham 2023 Speck Family Reserve Riesling
Peller Estates Niagara-on-the Lake
This is Peller Estates fourth appearance on my Movers and Shakers list in the past five years. This year Peller Estates placed eighth at the National Wine Awards.
The Peller Estates team has operated in Niagara-on-the-Lake, in the heart of the Niagara wine region, as a family-owned Canadian company for four generations. Their winemaker is Katie Dickieson, who has previous work experience in vineyards in New Zealand and France, as well as in Ontario and British Columbia.
Their 2024 award winning wines included:
Peller Estates 2020 Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon
Peller Estates 2022 Signature Series Sauvignon Blanc
Peller Estates 2023 Signature Series Vidal Oak Aged Icewine
The Organized Crime Winery
Organized Crime previously appeared as a Mover and Shaker in 2020. This year it was recognized as the fifth small winery at National Wine Awards.
Organized Crime is a second-generation, family-owned, small boutique winery located on the Beamsville Bench of the Niagara Peninsula.
They farm the land themselves and assist in the winemaking throughout all stages of the process. Their production volumes are very small as they intentionally lean towards the passion side of the business rather than the commercial.
Greg Yemen is Organized Crime’s Consultant Winemaker.
Award winning wines from 2024 included:
Organized Crime 2022 Sacred Series Cuvée Krystyna Chardonnay
Organized Crime 2020 Pipe Down
Organized Crime 2020 Sacred Series Tara Block Pinot Noir Unfiltered
Organized Crime 2020 Cabernet Franc Unfiltered
Organized Crime 2023 Riesling
Thirty Bench Wine Makers
Thirty Bench Wine Makers has previously appeared three times on the Movers and Shakers list, last in 2022. This year they were fifth at the National Wine Awards.
Thirty Bench is committed to “Small Lot” winemaking, which means that many of their wines are made in extremely limited numbers. With Riesling vineyards dating back as far as 1980, they are proud to be considered one of Niagara’s first true boutique wineries.
The Thirty Bench Wine Makers portfolio includes a diverse range of award-winning wines across nine varietals.
2024 award winning wines included:
Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Riesling Wood Post Vineyard
Thirty Bench 2022 Winemaker’s Blend Cabernet Franc
Thirty Bench N/V Sparkling Riesling
Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Chardonnay ‘Extended Barrel Aged’
Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard
Vieni Estates
Placing tenth at this year’s National Wine Awards, this is Vieni Estates first appearance on the Movers and Shakers list.
Vieni Estates brings the passion for wine from Italy and combines it with the love for this Canadian wine region. Located in the rolling hills of the Vinemount Ridge along the Niagara Escarpment, master winemaker Mauro Salvador takes the best of the many varietals grown on the estate to produce a broad range of still wines, ice wines and sparkling wines.
In addition to the many fine wines produced here, Vieni Estates also offers traditional Italian-style grappas and spirits distilled from the many fruits of Ontario.
This year’s award winning wines included:
Vieni Estates 2022 Cabernet Franc
Vieni Estates N/V Sparkling Apple Cider
Vieni Estates 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve
Vieni Estates 2020 Aglianico Reserve
Vieni Estates 2023 Novello Nouveau Gamay Noir
Final Thoughts
The list of award-winning wines includes only a sampling from each winery in order to provide you with an idea of the noteworthy wines each winery produces. It is not an all-inclusive list.
As this is the final post for 2024, I would like to wish you all a safe and happy New Year!
A Layman's Wine Musings 