To me, Scotch whisky, especially a heavily peated one, is a beverage best enjoyed in the cool, damp spring and fall months or while cozied up next to a warm fire during the depths of winter. So, when Islay distiller Ardbeg began promoting their whisky offerings as a good summertime drink, I was skeptical to say the least. At best I saw it as a gutsy marketing plan by their promoters.
Photo credit: ardbeg.com
When it comes to peated whisky, people generally have strong opinions. The flavours used to describe such whisky include medicinal, campfire smoke, iodine, tire fire and seaweed. You either love the taste or hate it. Ardbeg’s offering of single malts capture all of these characteristics but there’s much more to it than just peat.
The French mega-giant parent company JVMH owns both the Ardbeg and Glenmorangie distilleries. Glenmorangie is located in the Highlands whisky region at Tain, Ross-shire, Scotland.
There’s a long history behind Ardbeg, but it’s only been operating in its present capacity since the late 1990s. Nevertheless, it has managed to make a big impact on the world of heavily peated single malt scotch under the direction of master distiller and whisky expert, Dr. Bill Lumsden and more recently, master blender and head of whisky creation Gillian Macdonald.
It was Macdonald who came up with the notion that you can and should enjoy smoky scotch during the hot summer months. She based her idea on the fact that Ardbeg’s complex flavours include hints of baked pineapple and banana, as well as the surprising level of sweetness.
Bartenders are using Ardbeg as a base in their cocktails as they claim that it works well with a variety of ingredients. Included in the list of cocktails is Whisky Sour, Scotch Margarita, Highball, Negroni and Expresso Martini.
Who would ever have thought such a smoky Scotch whisky would be popular in the sunny warm weather? Certainly not me. Bring on the summer!
On the small remote Hebridean island of Islay (pronounced ‘eye-lah’), that lies off the western Scottish mainland, is where you will find the 200 year old Ardbeg distillery. The abundance of soft water, fertile soil and acres of precious peat makes Islay a place of pilgrimage for the single malt whisky faithful. I must admit that I have visited the island on two separate occasions and would love to return.
Photo credit: ardbeg.com
Ardbeg claims to produce the most peated of all the Islay malts and having tried it I would not disagree. It achieves this by using the most phenolic malt in the industry. Phenols are a class of organic compounds that contribute to the aroma and taste of whisky. They are often associated with smokiness and medicinal notes commonly found in peated whiskies. Ardbeg’s malt is peated to a level of 50 ppm (parts per million).
The casks used to mature the whisky come from a variety of sources. The vast amount of whisky matures in ex-Bourbon oak barrels. However, there is ongoing experimentation with different types of oak casks.
During the maturation process only 1st and 2nd fill casks are used. All of the new first fill Bourbon casks come from suppliers in the United States. Other casks come from Speyside Cooperage, and Craigellachie in Scotland.
As with many of the Islay distilleries, Ardbeg is situated next to the ocean. As a result, the whisky receives a certain salty, iodine character while it matures.
Here are the stats on Ardbeg’s three main whiskies:
Ardbeg 10 Year Old
Alcohol by Volume (ABV) = 46%
Appearance = Light Gold
Details = Revered for its balanced smoke and fruit character. Shows aromas of lemon, smoke, peat and brine with a kiss of sweet cereal. On the palate, it is warm and smoky with bold, yet balanced flavours that resonate with the aromas. The finish is long, sweet and smoky. Serve neat or with a few drops of pure water.
Price = $120 CDN
Ardbeg Uigeadail
ABV = 54.25
Colour = Deep gold
Details = With special vatting, this Ardbeg combines deep traditional smoky notes with sweet, raisiny tones of old, ex-Sherry casks. Rich and weighty with aromas of warm Christmas cake, fresh ocean spice, cedar and pine. Sweet and spicy with deep, smoky flavours, lingering raisins and smoke on the lengthy well-integrated finish.
Price = $190 CDN
Ardbeg Corryvreckan
ABV = 46.2%
Colour = Light gold
Details = Expect an intense nose of cedar, brine, and creosote, with caramel, smoky bacon, vanilla and clove; very complex aromas. The palate is also intense, but it is round and finely balanced with outstanding length. The lingering finish shows smoky, black tarry coffee with chocolate. Not for the fainthearted.
Price = $238 CDN
If you have a liking for peaty Scotch Whisky, and you haven’t done so already, you should try one or more of Ardbeg’s offerings.
According to the Scottish government, about eighty percent of Scotch whisky includes some amount of peat in the production process. Peat creates the smoky and medicinal flavour of the whisky. When burned during the malting process, the peat releases compounds called phenols. The phenols are measured in parts per million (ppm) which infuse the spirit with its earthy, charred character.
In general terms, the greater the phenol level the smokier the whisky. However, all the phenols are not necessarily transferred from the barley to the final product. The quantity of phenols in the liquid can often be much less than what is measured in the barley, and the smoke’s influence can be reduced during the maturation process.
Those Scotches with the highest concentrations of phenols generally range between 35 and 55 ppm and will have flavours and aromas of campfire smoke, tar, leather and earthiness. However, some distilleries have created whisky that far exceeds those levels. Here is a sampling of those whiskies below. Unless you are a really big fan of highly peated whiskies, many of these offerings are probably not for you.
Bruichladdich Octomore 8.3
It is no surprise that Bruichladdich Distillery is on Islay, the island renowned for its peated whisky. Phenol levels in Octomore consistently exceed 100 ppm. The brand releases three or four distinct expressions every year, each using different aging techniques. The 2017 collection included the most heavily peated Scotch ever made. The whisky was bottled at 61.2 percent ABV (Alcohol by Volume) and contained a whopping 309 ppm. Unfortunately, this whisky is not available in Ontario.
Ardbeg Hypernova
Ardbeg, another Islay distillery, is famous for its peated whiskies. Hypernova has a phenol level of 170 ppm. It was bottled at a level of 51 percent ABV. This non-age-statement expression is the smokiest Ardbeg released. It is available in liquor stores at a price of about $375 CDN.
The GlenAllachie Meikle Toir The Turbo
Distilled in Speyside, GlenAllachie’s whiskies are usually unpeated. That changed in 2023 when the distillery announced Meikle Toir, a new brand of heavily peated whiskies. The Turbo, which is a limited edition, annual release, is the peatiest, being distilled from malts with 70 ppm of phenol. The 2024 expression was matured in a combination of American oak and oloroso hogshead casks and bottled at 50 percent ABV. It is not currently available in Ontario.
Benromach Distillery is a Speyside distillery that generally produces only lightly peated whisky at around the 12 ppm level. However, this expression pushes the envelope to a level of 55 ppm. Exclusively distilled in small batches and aged solely in first-fill sherry hogshead casks, the whisky provides a delicate balance of smoke and rich fruit flavours. This particular offering from Benromach is not available in Ontario.
Kilchoman Machir Bay
Being located on Islay, Machir Bay is Kilchoman’s flagship whisky having the tone for Islay’s signature style. Intensely smoky, the single malt Scotch is distilled from barley peated at 50 ppm before it’s laid down to mature in a combination of bourbon and sherry casks. It is available in liquor stores for $100 CDN.
Laphroaig 10 Year Cask Strength
Islay’s Laphroaig Distillery has been exclusively producing peated whisky since its birth in 1815. The smokiest expression in the Laphroaig lineup is Laphroaig 10 Year Cask Strength, which is peated at around 45 ppm of phenol. It is available in liquor stores at a price of $110 CDN.
Lagavulin 16 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky
The most popular offering from Islay’s Lagavulin distillery is one of my personal favourites, the 16 Year Old Single Malt. It is a 43-percent ABV whisky that has been aged in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks. The whisky is distilled from malts peated at 35 ppm and contains flavours of caramel, vanilla and saltwater. It is available in liquor stores for $175 CDN.
Caol Ila 12 Year Single Malt Scotch
Another Islay distillery that has been described by some as providing the best peated Scotches for beginners, Caol Ila delivers a sweeter smokiness than some of the more heavily peated Scotches on this list. Distilled from barley at approximately 35 ppm, the whisky carries citrus and potpourri notes combined with subtle peat influence. It is available in liquor stores for $100 CDN.
Looking for ideas on what wine or whisky to give this year? Here are some of my favourite suggestions that should be available at your local liquor store or online.
FOR THE WINE FANS
Under $20
Fantini Sangiovese $11.45 CDN – Expressive ripe fruit, supple tannins, and well-balanced acidity contribute to an inviting and versatile wine, making it an easy choice any night of the week. Serve it alongside braised meat dishes or with tomato-based pasta dishes.
This is a wine my wife discovered while browsing the aisles of our local liquor store and it is now our go-to house wine.
Famille Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône $16.95 CDN – With floral, red plum, chocolate and spice notes, this wine goes well with Mediterranean-style pizza or hearty lamb stew.
France’s Côtes du Rhône region is one of my personal favourites.
Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling $19.95 CDN – Vibrant, with honey, fresh fig, herbs and citrus, this wine consistently delivers the fine, pure mineral for which both great Riesling and Ontario are so renowned. It may be cellared for up to 5 years and will be superb with lightly grilled or smoked fish.
This has been one of my standards when guests come over or to pair with barbecued fish.
Under $50
Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG $34.95 CDN – With aromas and flavours of red fruit, floral tones, berry, plum and a touch of licorice, this wine is extra-dry with balanced acidity, firm tannins and fruit flavours that linger on the finish. Barolo pairs well with game meats and mushroom risotto.
Barolo is my favourite type of Italian wine and to find one with a price tag under $50 is uncommon.
Famille Perrin Les Sinards Châteauneuf-du-Pape $43.95 CDN – Perrin is among the finest producers in the southern Rhône. Some grapes for this rich, age-worthy red come from their legendary Château de Beaucastel estate. Drink over the next decade with roast duck, roast lamb or grilled game meats.
I have been intrigued by Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine ever since a close friend brought me a bottle from the French district quite a few years ago. After visiting there myself earlier this year and sampling the wines I am even more smitten with them. To find a bottle for less than $50 is a true find.
For That Special Someone
Mazzetti Grappa di Nebbiolo da Barolo in Decanter $199.95 CDN – Crafted from the pomace of Nebbiolo from Barolo, Italy, this is pure quality and elegance. The decanter and stylish gift box make it as breathtaking on the outside as it is on the inside. It is the perfect gift for any grappa enthusiast.
FOR THE WHISKY DRINKERS
Under $50
Jameson Irish Whiskey $39.95 CDN – Jameson Irish Whiskey is a versatile, smooth blend of pot still and fine grain whiskeys. Bright, pale amber with subtle aromas of white flower, nectarine, ripe pear and clove. Mellow and approachable on the palate, with spicy vanilla, wildflower honey and ginger flavours.
This is a great introduction for anyone who is being introduced to the world of whisky. It was one of my initial favourites.
Under $100
Bowmore 12 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky $65.95 CDN – This Islay whisky expresses the essence of Bowmore with rich amber colour; subtle notes of citrus and honey with typical peaty smokiness; the flavours are sweet and delicious with heather and honey; a soft peat smoke note lingers on a long and mellow finish.
My initiation to Bowmore 12 was at a friend’s cottage. It provides a wonderful Islay experience at a better price point than many of its competitors.
Green Spot Irish Whiskey $89.95 CDN – This single pot still whiskey from Ireland uses malted and unmalted barley to give it a unique spiciness. Clove, apricot and oak toast aromas evolve to flavours of cedar, clove, apple and ginger. The long finish echoes spicy notes of clove, nutmeg, and ginger.
This is my go-to Irish Whiskey and I try to always have some on my bar shelf.
Under $200
Lagavulin 16 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky $174.95 CDN – Considered by many to be the benchmark for Islay malts, this classic pours a golden amber colour and wafts from your glass with intense smoky peat and iodine. The palate is full flavour, rich and smooth with peat, figs, dates and vanilla followed by an enduring smoky and dry finish.
I was introduced to Lagavulin 16 by my wife’s uncle during a trip to the distillery several years ago. Even though he was a descendant of the original owners of the Laphroaig distillery he wanted me to try Lagavulin, his favourite whisky. I tried it and it has been a staple on my bar ever since.
The Glenlivet French Oak Reserve 15 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky $114.95 CDN – The unique use of French Oak increases the intensity of the whisky, resulting in a richer and creamier finish along with a distinctive spiciness. Deep golden in colour, expect aromas and flavours of crème brûlée, sweet apple, gentle smokiness and peat alongside of lavender notes followed by a rich and complex finish.
This is another whisky that I like to always have on hand as one of my regular Scotch whisky choices.
For That Special Someone
The Glenlivet 18Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky $214.95 CDN – Distiller Alan Winchester takes this malt through a combination of cask types, including both first and second-fill American oak (for tropical fruitiness) and ex-sherry oak (for spiciness). The result is this golden-coloured dram with rich spicy aromas, toasty grain, vanilla and almond flavours and a long smooth finish.
This whisky I save for special occasions or when I want to treat myself.
Ireland, the former whiskey capital of the world which dominated whiskey sales into the early 20th Century, quickly fell from grace due to several reasons. First, people were starting to prefer blended whiskies rather than the traditional single malts and single pot varieties. The Irish, however, chose to ignore this market trend and saw reduced sales as a result. Second, the American Prohibition negatively impacted sales, given that 60% of U.S. whiskey sales came from Ireland. Finally, internal conflict in the 1920s within Ireland itself and the subsequent trade war with Britain a few years later left the Irish Whiskey trade in a dismal state. By the 1970s the number of whiskey distilleries had been reduced to just two – Bushmills and New Midleton, which were both owned by the same company.
Fast forwarding to the period between 1990 and 2010, the Irish Whiskey industry experienced a resurgence, making it the fastest growing liquor industry. Today there are more than 40 distilleries throughout Ireland and more being added; the choices are becoming overwhelming. So today I will take you through a list of what many experts agree are many of the best Irish whiskeys on the market. Included are a couple of my personal favourites.
Before reviewing the list, it’s important to keep in mind that there are four styles of Irish Whiskey: Single Pot Still, Single Malt, Single Grain and Blended. Keep in mind that “Single” in the title refers to a single distillery, it is not a descriptor for the words following after.
SINGLE POT STILL
This was once the most common way to make whiskey but had become almost nonexistent by the end of the 20th Century. There has been somewhat of a resurgence in recent years. The single pot still variety originally came about during the 1700s as a way to avoid taxes imposed on malted barley.
The classification states that the whiskey must be made from a single distillery, distilled in pot stills from a mashbill that contains at least 30% malted barley and 30% unmalted barley, with up to 5% of other cereal grains. Pot still whiskey is noticeably spicier and creamier than other styles.
Recommended single pot style whiskies include:
Powers John’s Lane
$76 at LCBO
Because of its 200 year history, Powers has a reputation for being mainstream though it is actually a lesser-known label. It is named after the location of its old distillery, where it held production beginning in the early 1800s until 1975. The whiskey is aged in bourbon barrels and finished in Oloroso sherry casks creating flavours of leather, tobacco, wood, dark chocolate and toffee.
Redbreast 12 Year Old Cask Strength
$120 at LCBO
Redbreast has several popular expressions, but the 12 Year Old Cask Strength is arguably its most popular. At 116 proof, this whiskey provides flavours of oak, buttery pears, cinnamon apple, baking spices, caramel and vanilla.
I have tried Redbreast but I personally have never found it too endearing.
Green Spot
$88 at LCBO
Not appearing on the experts’ list, but one of my own personal favourites is Mitchell and Sons Green Spot. The whiskey has matured in a combination of first and second fill bourbon casks as well as sherry casks. It has flavours of green apples, honey and cinnamon spice. To me this whiskey provides good value for the price.
SINGLE MALT
Single malt Irish whiskey must be made in a single distillery, distilled in pot stills from a mashbill composed entirely of malted barley. Single malt is noticeably smoother than the single pot still style.
Recommended single malt style whiskies include:
The Sexton
$50 at LCBO
Contained within a unique hexagonal bottle, The Sexton single malt has the appearance and taste of a good quality spirit even though it has a very affordable price; the least expensive in this list. Aged for four years in casks previously used for Oloroso sherry, the whiskey has a silky profile of oak, fruit, honeycomb and a hint of spice.
Overall, I like The Sexton although I often favour a whiskey with a little more complexity in flavour. If I am looking for a mindless dram to relax with, this is a good one.
Bushmills 21 Year
$264 at LCBO
Bushmills is the oldest licensed distillery in the world, successfully enduring the near extinction of Irish whiskey in the 1970s as one of two remaining distilleries. The 21 Year single malt is Bushmills’ premier expression, triple distilled and aged for 19 years in either former Oloroso sherry casks or bourbon barrels and then finished for an extra two years in Madeira casks. The result is a big flavour profile of fig, mango, caramel, cherry and apricot, all ending with a sweet finish.
SINGLE GRAIN
Single grain whiskey refers to any whiskey distilled in a column still rather than a pot still. Its mashbill can also be no more than 30% malted barley. The result is something with higher alcohol content, yet is less flavourful. As a result, single grain whiskey is largely used for blended varieties rather than bottled by itself, although there are some exceptions.
Recommended single grain style whiskies include:
Teeling Single Grain
Opening in 2015, Teeling is the first new distillery in Dublin in 125 years. However, Teeling was originally opened in 1782, closing in 1923. The current owners possess the Teeling family name. They put out one of the most versatile ranges of Irish whiskeys, including the rare single grain, which I unfortunately could find no reference to at the LCBO. It is made with a corn-dominant mashbill where it’s then aged in former Cabernet Sauvignon wine barrels creating a profile that ranges from cranberries to butterscotch to the typical sweetness of bourbon whiskey.
Method & Madness Single Grain
Method & Madness is part of the micro-distillery offshoot at New Midleton Distillery. It was launched a few years ago and has an outside the box approach to the aging process. The brand came up with a single grain spirit that’s aged in first-fill bourbon barrels and finished in virgin Spanish oak. The result is a flavourful single grain whiskey with hints of oak, spice and grapefruit. Unfortunately, this whiskey is not available for sale in Ontario.
BLENDED
The driving force behind blended whiskey is that it is a good way to produce the spirit while keeping costs lower. Blended whiskey combines two or more of the previous styles, usually a higher quality liquor with a lower quality one. Most mainstream Irish Whiskeys, such as Jameson and Tullamore Dew, are of the blended variety.
Writers’ Tears
$60 at LCBO
Writers’ Tears is produced by Walsh Whiskey. This blended spirit combines single pot still and single malt varieties. Aged in American bourbon barrels, the whiskey possesses flavours of lemon, honey, black pepper and floral notes.
I have tried Writers’ Tears a few times and have found the flavour to be light and subtle. It is a good choice for anyone new to the whiskey scene.
Jameson Bow Street 18 Year Cask Strength
Jameson, one of Ireland’s most renowned distilleries, put out its rarest release in 2018 and has done so once a year since. The historic Bow Street distillery operated for nearly 200 years until it closed in 1976 and was later turned into a museum, which I have visited. Jameson’s Bow Street 18 Year Cask Strength is claimed to be the king of all blended whiskies, combining both pot still and grain varieties. This expression has flavours of toffee, oak, vanilla and sherry, as well as notes of leather.
This particular Jameson rendition is unfortunately not available in Ontario.
Scotch Whisky can be a difficult drink for us North Americans to get into. When I was younger (how I long for those days) I perceived Scotch being a drink for mature whisky connoisseurs. Where rye and rum were often served as mixed drinks with cola or ginger ale, Scotch was not. If it was mixed with anything it was only water or maybe soda water. Many people like myself interpreted this to mean that Scotch Whisky was not for the faint of heart and you must be prepared for a strong flavoured throat-burning drink.
Another intimidating factor is the hard to pronounce names. With names such as Bruichladdich (Brook laddie), Craigellachie (Craig alecky), Glenmorangie (Glen maw ruhn jee) and Laphroaig (Luh froig), it can be very intimidating to try and pronounce them for fear of stumbling over the names or mispronouncing them entirely.
Though an acquired taste, Scotch is a very simple straightforward drink that is usually served in any of four ways
Neat
With water
With ice
In a cocktail
Neat
Drinking Scotch neat means drinking it with nothing added. To get the most benefit, the Scotch should be served in a whisky snifter at room temperature. A whisky snifter has a large bottom that tapers toward the top like a tulip to trap the whisky aromas in the glass and concentrate them all in one place.
Single malts or blends can be drunk in this manner.
With Water
Adding a splash of water will unleash new whisky flavours while decreasing the intensity of the alcohol. Water chemically suppresses ethanol molecules (alcohol) as well as the flavours extracted from the wood barrels. Water decreases the effects of less desirable, immature aromas.
Cask strength or barrel proof whisky will generally have a higher level of alcohol by volume. In such situations, by adding a couple drops of water, the flavour can be improved and more enjoyable.
Depending on how the whisky was filtered water may give the whisky appear hazy. However, there is nothing wrong with a hazy whisky and it won’t change the drinking experience.
With Ice / On the Rocks
There are those whisky enthusiasts who will scoff at the idea of chilling your Scotch and diluting it with melting ice. However, for those still developing a taste for whisky, ice can be very beneficial. Cooling a dram depresses dominant alcohol flavours and aromas, making the drink more palatable for some. However, it will also lessen some of the flavours that make Scotch taste like Scotch. The increased flavours from adding water are lost as the low temperature nullifies any flavour gains.
If you use ice be sure to use large cubes that will slowly melt and take up the majority of space in the rocks glass. That way you get the chill without diluting it so much that it becomes unrecognizable as Scotch.
In a Cocktail
The classic example of a Scotch Whisky cocktail is the Rob Roy, which is essentially a Manhattan that substitutes Scotch Whisky for Rye Whiskey. The cocktail was invented around 1900 in New York’s Waldorf-Astoria.
According to mixologists, Scotch may be used in place of other whiskeys in cocktails such as the Boulevardier, Old Fashioned, or Mint Julep. Who knew?
At the end of November, The Irish Whiskey Association announced the 2023 Irish Whiskey Awards winners. Now having over 40 distilleries, Ireland has reemerged as a powerhouse in the international whiskey industry and is now the fastest-growing whiskey making country in the world.
Whiskey tastings were conducted throughout Ireland with members of the Irish Whiskey Society. Events took place in Dublin, Dingle, Cork, Waterford, Kilkenny, Ennis, Carlow and Belfast. There was also a select group of international whiskey judges.
The Best Irish Whiskey of the Year prize was awarded to Connacht Irish Whiskey Distillery, Exclusive Cask Strength, Single Malt Irish Whiskey, 47% ABV, 750 ml.
Connacht’s single malt whiskey is a triple-distilled whiskey produced at their distillery in Ballina, County Mayo. The distillery was founded by Master Distiller Robert Cassell in 2016, along with a team of Irish whiskey entrepreneurs who saw the potential of northwest Ireland’s unique climate to produce an iconic Irish whiskey. The region is characterized by dramatic swings in atmospheric pressure that contributes to producing a flavourful, heavily extracted whiskey. The use of custom-designed stills further enhances the unique character of the whiskey.
Other winners included:
Single Pot Still 11 Years and Under
Winner: Drumshanbo Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Pinot Noir Cask
Gold: Jameson Single Pot Still
Gold: Powers Three Swallows
Single Pot Still 12 Years and Over
Winner: Red Spot 15 Year Old
Gold: Yellow Spot 12 Year Old
Gold: Redbreast 15 Year Old
Single Malt 11 Years and Younger
Winner: Jack Ryan Whiskey 5-Year-Old Oloroso Finish Cask Strength
Gold: Dunville’s 10 Year Old Pedro Ximenez Cask
Gold: The Irishman Legacy
Single Malt 12 – 15 Year Old
Winner: Tullamore DEW 14 Year Old
Gold: Knappogue Castle 12 Year Old
Gold: The Irishman 12 Year Old
Single Malt 16 Years & Older
Winner: The Irishman 17 Year Old
Gold: Dunville’s 21-Year-Old Palo Cortado Cask
Gold: McConnell’s Irish Whisky 20 Year Old Port Finish Single Cask
A Layman's Wine Musings 