Whiskey: Tradition Meets Innovation

Whiskey has been and continues to be, one of the world’s most favourite spirits. It is both a symbol of tradition and an area for continued innovation. From single malts to blended varieties, whiskey’s rich history that dates back several hundred years, is accompanied by a dynamic, evolving market that attracts both connoisseurs and casual drinkers.

Photo credit: nationalgeographic.com

Whiskey’s deep-rooted craftsmanship, with its complex aging processes and diverse production methods, continues to attract consumers. Distilleries are preserving traditional techniques while embarking on new technologies that help to enhance flavour profiles.

While countries like Scotland, Ireland and North America remain as key players in the industry, whiskey’s appeal is expanding globally, with countries such as Japan and India gaining significant recognition for their increased demand and innovative whiskey production.

Globally the demand for premium and supreme whiskeys is on the rise. This shift is pushing brands to offer a variety of variably priced, exclusive, limited-edition releases to attract whiskey enthusiasts, as well as collectors. These offerings range greatly in price from a few hundred dollars to well into the four-to-five-digit range. A few rare whiskeys have sold for prices even beyond that!

During recent years, producers have been experimenting with new barrel finishes; making use of barrels that were formerly used to store other spirits, such as cognac, sherry, bourbon or brandy. Distillers have found that maturing whiskey in these types of barrels will infuse new flavour from the wood of these barrels into the whiskey. Distillers have also experimented with combining multiple flavour infusions.

The popularity of whiskey-based cocktails and the craft cocktail movement is also expanding whiskey’s appeal. The industry is now attracting younger generations and enhancing market versatility.

Whiskey continues to be a beverage of choice for those who appreciate both tradition and innovation, offering endless possibilities for consumers, whiskey enthusiasts and collectors alike.

Sláinte mhaith

Holiday Gift Giving

Photo credit: chatelaine.com

Looking for ideas on what wine or whisky to give this year?  Here are some of my favourite suggestions that should be available at your local liquor store or online.

FOR THE WINE FANS

Under $20

Fantini Sangiovese $11.45 CDN – Expressive ripe fruit, supple tannins, and well-balanced acidity contribute to an inviting and versatile wine, making it an easy choice any night of the week. Serve it alongside braised meat dishes or with tomato-based pasta dishes.

This is a wine my wife discovered while browsing the aisles of our local liquor store and it is now our go-to house wine.

Famille Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône $16.95 CDN – With floral, red plum, chocolate and spice notes, this wine goes well with Mediterranean-style pizza or hearty lamb stew.

France’s Côtes du Rhône region is one of my personal favourites.

Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling $19.95 CDN – Vibrant, with honey, fresh fig, herbs and citrus, this wine consistently delivers the fine, pure mineral for which both great Riesling and Ontario are so renowned. It may be cellared for up to 5 years and will be superb with lightly grilled or smoked fish.

This has been one of my standards when guests come over or to pair with barbecued fish.

Under $50

Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG $34.95 CDN – With aromas and flavours of red fruit, floral tones, berry, plum and a touch of licorice, this wine is extra-dry with balanced acidity, firm tannins and fruit flavours that linger on the finish. Barolo pairs well with game meats and mushroom risotto.

Barolo is my favourite type of Italian wine and to find one with a price tag under $50 is uncommon.

Famille Perrin Les Sinards Châteauneuf-du-Pape $43.95 CDN – Perrin is among the finest producers in the southern Rhône. Some grapes for this rich, age-worthy red come from their legendary Château de Beaucastel estate. Drink over the next decade with roast duck, roast lamb or grilled game meats.

I have been intrigued by Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine ever since a close friend brought me a bottle from the French district quite a few years ago. After visiting there myself earlier this year and sampling the wines I am even more smitten with them. To find a bottle for less than $50 is a true find.

For That Special Someone

Mazzetti Grappa di Nebbiolo da Barolo in Decanter $199.95 CDN – Crafted from the pomace of Nebbiolo from Barolo, Italy, this is pure quality and elegance. The decanter and stylish gift box make it as breathtaking on the outside as it is on the inside. It is the perfect gift for any grappa enthusiast.

FOR THE WHISKY DRINKERS

Under $50

Jameson Irish Whiskey $39.95 CDN – Jameson Irish Whiskey is a versatile, smooth blend of pot still and fine grain whiskeys. Bright, pale amber with subtle aromas of white flower, nectarine, ripe pear and clove. Mellow and approachable on the palate, with spicy vanilla, wildflower honey and ginger flavours.

This is a great introduction for anyone who is being introduced to the world of whisky. It was one of my initial favourites.

Under $100

Bowmore 12 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky $65.95 CDN – This Islay whisky expresses the essence of Bowmore with rich amber colour; subtle notes of citrus and honey with typical peaty smokiness; the flavours are sweet and delicious with heather and honey; a soft peat smoke note lingers on a long and mellow finish.

My initiation to Bowmore 12 was at a friend’s cottage. It provides a wonderful Islay experience at a better price point than many of its competitors.

Green Spot Irish Whiskey $89.95 CDN – This single pot still whiskey from Ireland uses malted and unmalted barley to give it a unique spiciness. Clove, apricot and oak toast aromas evolve to flavours of cedar, clove, apple and ginger. The long finish echoes spicy notes of clove, nutmeg, and ginger.

This is my go-to Irish Whiskey and I try to always have some on my bar shelf.

Under $200

Lagavulin 16 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky $174.95 CDN – Considered by many to be the benchmark for Islay malts, this classic pours a golden amber colour and wafts from your glass with intense smoky peat and iodine. The palate is full flavour, rich and smooth with peat, figs, dates and vanilla followed by an enduring smoky and dry finish.

I was introduced to Lagavulin 16 by my wife’s uncle during a trip to the distillery several years ago. Even though he was a descendant of the original owners of the Laphroaig distillery he wanted me to try Lagavulin, his favourite whisky. I tried it and it has been a staple on my bar ever since.

The Glenlivet French Oak Reserve 15 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky $114.95 CDN – The unique use of French Oak increases the intensity of the whisky, resulting in a richer and creamier finish along with a distinctive spiciness. Deep golden in colour, expect aromas and flavours of crème brûlée, sweet apple, gentle smokiness and peat alongside of lavender notes followed by a rich and complex finish.

This is another whisky that I like to always have on hand as one of my regular Scotch whisky choices.

For That Special Someone

The Glenlivet 18Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky $214.95 CDN – Distiller Alan Winchester takes this malt through a combination of cask types, including both first and second-fill American oak (for tropical fruitiness) and ex-sherry oak (for spiciness). The result is this golden-coloured dram with rich spicy aromas, toasty grain, vanilla and almond flavours and a long smooth finish.

This whisky I save for special occasions or when I want to treat myself.

Sláinte mhaith

The Evolution of Irish Whiskey

Ireland, the former whiskey capital of the world which dominated whiskey sales into the early 20th Century, quickly fell from grace due to several reasons. First, people were starting to prefer blended whiskies rather than the traditional single malts and single pot varieties. The Irish, however, chose to ignore this market trend and saw reduced sales as a result. Second, the American Prohibition negatively impacted sales, given that 60% of U.S. whiskey sales came from Ireland. Finally, internal conflict in the 1920s within Ireland itself and the subsequent trade war with Britain a few years later left the Irish Whiskey trade in a dismal state. By the 1970s the number of whiskey distilleries had been reduced to just two – Bushmills and New Midleton, which were both owned by the same company.

Fast forwarding to the period between 1990 and 2010, the Irish Whiskey industry experienced a resurgence, making it the fastest growing liquor industry. Today there are more than 40 distilleries throughout Ireland and more being added; the choices are becoming overwhelming. So today I will take you through a list of what many experts agree are many of the best Irish whiskeys on the market.  Included are a couple of my personal favourites.

Before reviewing the list, it’s important to keep in mind that there are four styles of Irish Whiskey: Single Pot Still, Single Malt, Single Grain and Blended. Keep in mind that “Single” in the title refers to a single distillery, it is not a descriptor for the words following after.

SINGLE POT STILL

This was once the most common way to make whiskey but had become almost nonexistent by the end of the 20th Century. There has been somewhat of a resurgence in recent years. The single pot still variety originally came about during the 1700s as a way to avoid taxes imposed on malted barley.

The classification states that the whiskey must be made from a single distillery, distilled in pot stills from a mashbill that contains at least 30% malted barley and 30% unmalted barley, with up to 5% of other cereal grains. Pot still whiskey is noticeably spicier and creamier than other styles.

Recommended single pot style whiskies include:

Powers John’s Lane

$76 at LCBO

Because of its 200 year history, Powers has a reputation for being mainstream though it is actually a lesser-known label. It is named after the location of its old distillery, where it held production beginning in the early 1800s until 1975. The whiskey is aged in bourbon barrels and finished in Oloroso sherry casks creating flavours of leather, tobacco, wood, dark chocolate and toffee.

Redbreast 12 Year Old Cask Strength

$120 at LCBO

Redbreast has several popular expressions, but the 12 Year Old Cask Strength is arguably its most popular. At 116 proof, this whiskey provides flavours of oak, buttery pears, cinnamon apple, baking spices, caramel and vanilla.

I have tried Redbreast but I personally have never found it too endearing.

Green Spot

$88 at LCBO

Not appearing on the experts’ list, but one of my own personal favourites is Mitchell and Sons Green Spot. The whiskey has matured in a combination of first and second fill bourbon casks as well as sherry casks. It has flavours of green apples, honey and cinnamon spice. To me this whiskey provides good value for the price.

SINGLE MALT

Single malt Irish whiskey must be made in a single distillery, distilled in pot stills from a mashbill composed entirely of malted barley. Single malt is noticeably smoother than the single pot still style.

Recommended single malt style whiskies include:

The Sexton

$50 at LCBO

Contained within a unique hexagonal bottle, The Sexton single malt has the appearance and taste of a good quality spirit even though it has a very affordable price; the least expensive in this list. Aged for four years in casks previously used for Oloroso sherry, the whiskey has a silky profile of oak, fruit, honeycomb and a hint of spice.

Overall, I like The Sexton although I often favour a whiskey with a little more complexity in flavour. If I am looking for a mindless dram to relax with, this is a good one.

Bushmills 21 Year

$264 at LCBO

Bushmills is the oldest licensed distillery in the world, successfully enduring the near extinction of Irish whiskey in the 1970s as one of two remaining distilleries. The 21 Year single malt is Bushmills’ premier expression, triple distilled and aged for 19 years in either former Oloroso sherry casks or bourbon barrels and then finished for an extra two years in Madeira casks. The result is a big flavour profile of fig, mango, caramel, cherry and apricot, all ending with a sweet finish.

SINGLE GRAIN

Single grain whiskey refers to any whiskey distilled in a column still rather than a pot still. Its mashbill can also be no more than 30% malted barley. The result is something with higher alcohol content, yet is less flavourful. As a result, single grain whiskey is largely used for blended varieties rather than bottled by itself, although there are some exceptions.

Recommended single grain style whiskies include:

Teeling Single Grain

Opening in 2015, Teeling is the first new distillery in Dublin in 125 years. However, Teeling was originally opened in 1782, closing in 1923. The current owners possess the Teeling family name. They put out one of the most versatile ranges of Irish whiskeys, including the rare single grain, which I unfortunately could find no reference to at the LCBO. It is made with a corn-dominant mashbill where it’s then aged in former Cabernet Sauvignon wine barrels creating a profile that ranges from cranberries to butterscotch to the typical sweetness of bourbon whiskey.

Method & Madness Single Grain

Method & Madness is part of the micro-distillery offshoot at New Midleton Distillery. It was launched a few years ago and has an outside the box approach to the aging process. The brand came up with a single grain spirit that’s aged in first-fill bourbon barrels and finished in virgin Spanish oak. The result is a flavourful single grain whiskey with hints of oak, spice and grapefruit. Unfortunately, this whiskey is not available for sale in Ontario.

BLENDED

The driving force behind blended whiskey is that it is a good way to produce the spirit while keeping costs lower. Blended whiskey combines two or more of the previous styles, usually a higher quality liquor with a lower quality one. Most mainstream Irish Whiskeys, such as Jameson and Tullamore Dew, are of the blended variety.

Writers’ Tears

$60 at LCBO

Writers’ Tears is produced by Walsh Whiskey. This blended spirit combines single pot still and single malt varieties. Aged in American bourbon barrels, the whiskey possesses flavours of lemon, honey, black pepper and floral notes.

I have tried Writers’ Tears a few times and have found the flavour to be light and subtle. It is a good choice for anyone new to the whiskey scene.

Jameson Bow Street 18 Year Cask Strength

Jameson, one of Ireland’s most renowned distilleries, put out its rarest release in 2018 and has done so once a year since. The historic Bow Street distillery operated for nearly 200 years until it closed in 1976 and was later turned into a museum, which I have visited. Jameson’s Bow Street 18 Year Cask Strength is claimed to be the king of all blended whiskies, combining both pot still and grain varieties. This expression has flavours of toffee, oak, vanilla and sherry, as well as notes of leather.

This particular Jameson rendition is unfortunately not available in Ontario.

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A Whiskey Tasting Party

This is a good time of year to have a whiskey tasting party. A whiskey tasting can be done in a couple of different ways. The simplest method is to just get a few bottles together and let everyone help themselves while they sit around and chat about the ways of the world. However, it can be more interesting if everyone is tasting together and there’s a progression of styles to sip from. This technique is similar to that of a wine tasting party.

Photo credit: southerndrinkingclub.com

If following the second approach, first determine how many people will attend and then how many whiskies you want to sample.  If everyone is tasting the same whiskey at the same time it is probably best to keep the number of attendees to under a dozen. This will make it easier to keep organized and maintain a well-structured group conversation about each sample.

When deciding on which whiskies to try, you could follow a specific theme or make your selections based on ones you personally enjoy. The experts suggest that the number of whiskies should range from five to eight with each pour being about ½ an ounce. Following this guideline, you will only require one bottle of each whiskey. Depending on your approach, you can either provide the whiskies yourself or ask each guest to bring a bottle.

Regarding the number and type of glasses to use, some enthusiasts only use snifter or Glencairn style glass but white wine glasses with small to medium bowls work equally as well. Your guests only need a glass or two at a time, so you can either dispose or finish the remains after each tasting, rinse out the glass and proceed to the next. This saves on glassware plus the clean-up time afterwards.

Allow people to taste each sample first without adding any water. Then give them the option to add a couple of drops of water to see if that affects the taste. It is a good idea to provide a pitcher of filtered or bottled water served at room temperature and liquid droppers, which can be obtained from most pharmacies. When adding water, it is important not to dilute the whiskey, thus no more than a teaspoon should be added. Whiskey flavours are easier to identify as you lower the relative alcohol content, thus diluting your whiskey a few drops at a time helps open up new flavours to experience.

On the topic of water, each participant should be provided with drinking water to cleanse the palate between tastings, as well as to keep themselves hydrated. Crackers or plain bread, such as a baguette are also good ways to cleanse the palate between tastings.

It is a good idea to have a container available for your guests to pour out whiskies they don’t care for. The goal here is to experience a range of whiskies, not encourage anyone to drink something they don’t like.

The best way to progress through a tasting is to sip the lightest whiskey first and end with the richest and/or most heavily flavoured/smokiest one. As host, it’s a good idea to taste everything yourself prior to the event in order to know which order the whiskies should be served in. Keep in mind that lighter coloured whiskey doesn’t necessarily mean it is lighter in flavour.

If you decide to select your whiskies using a theme, options include selecting by country, such as all American, all Irish, all Scottish, all Japanese, etc. Another option is selecting all single malts, whether from Scotland or a selection from different parts of the world.  Comparing whiskies of the same age or from a single region are a couple of other options.

When it comes time to sample each whiskey, begin by “nosing” or smelling the whiskey. When it comes to tasting, hold the first sip in your mouth for several seconds before swallowing. On subsequent sips, concentrate on discovering the flavours and aromas. Then after adding a few drops of water explore the flavours again.

With all the discussions, nosings, water additions and subsequent re-tastings, you can expect to spend at least a couple of hours exploring your selections. Most importantly, the experience should be enjoyable for everyone. It’s a bonus if either you or your guests discover a new favourite whiskey along the way.

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Whisky Different Ways

Scotch Whisky can be a difficult drink for us North Americans to get into.  When I was younger (how I long for those days) I perceived Scotch being a drink for mature whisky connoisseurs.  Where rye and rum were often served as mixed drinks with cola or ginger ale, Scotch was not. If it was mixed with anything it was only water or maybe soda water.  Many people like myself interpreted this to mean that Scotch Whisky was not for the faint of heart and you must be prepared for a strong flavoured throat-burning drink.

Another intimidating factor is the hard to pronounce names.  With names such as Bruichladdich (Brook laddie), Craigellachie (Craig alecky), Glenmorangie (Glen maw ruhn jee) and Laphroaig (Luh froig), it can be very intimidating to try and pronounce them for fear of stumbling over the names or mispronouncing them entirely.

Though an acquired taste, Scotch is a very simple straightforward drink that is usually served in any of four ways

  • Neat
  • With water
  • With ice
  • In a cocktail

Neat

Drinking Scotch neat means drinking it with nothing added.  To get the most benefit, the Scotch should be served in a whisky snifter at room temperature.  A whisky snifter has a large bottom that tapers toward the top like a tulip to trap the whisky aromas in the glass and concentrate them all in one place.

Single malts or blends can be drunk in this manner.

With Water

Adding a splash of water will unleash new whisky flavours while decreasing the intensity of the alcohol. Water chemically suppresses ethanol molecules (alcohol) as well as the flavours extracted from the wood barrels. Water decreases the effects of less desirable, immature aromas.

Cask strength or barrel proof whisky will generally have a higher level of alcohol by volume.  In such situations, by adding a couple drops of water, the flavour can be improved and more enjoyable.

Depending on how the whisky was filtered water may give the whisky appear hazy. However, there is nothing wrong with a hazy whisky and it won’t change the drinking experience.

With Ice / On the Rocks

There are those whisky enthusiasts who will scoff at the idea of chilling your Scotch and diluting it with melting ice. However, for those still developing a taste for whisky, ice can be very beneficial.  Cooling a dram depresses dominant alcohol flavours and aromas, making the drink more palatable for some. However, it will also lessen some of the flavours that make Scotch taste like Scotch. The increased flavours from adding water are lost as the low temperature nullifies any flavour gains.

If you use ice be sure to use large cubes that will slowly melt and take up the majority of space in the rocks glass. That way you get the chill without diluting it so much that it becomes unrecognizable as Scotch.

In a Cocktail

The classic example of a Scotch Whisky cocktail is the Rob Roy, which is essentially a Manhattan that substitutes Scotch Whisky for Rye Whiskey. The cocktail was invented around 1900 in New York’s Waldorf-Astoria.

According to mixologists, Scotch may be used in place of other whiskeys in cocktails such as the Boulevardier, Old Fashioned, or Mint Julep.  Who knew?

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The Best Irish Whiskeys Of 2023

At the end of November, The Irish Whiskey Association announced the 2023 Irish Whiskey Awards winners. Now having over 40 distilleries, Ireland has reemerged as a powerhouse in the international whiskey industry and is now the fastest-growing whiskey making country in the world.

Whiskey tastings were conducted throughout Ireland with members of the Irish Whiskey Society. Events took place in Dublin, Dingle, Cork, Waterford, Kilkenny, Ennis, Carlow and Belfast. There was also a select group of international whiskey judges.

The Best Irish Whiskey of the Year prize was awarded to Connacht Irish Whiskey Distillery, Exclusive Cask Strength, Single Malt Irish Whiskey, 47% ABV, 750 ml.

Connacht’s single malt whiskey is a triple-distilled whiskey produced at their distillery in Ballina, County Mayo. The distillery was founded by Master Distiller Robert Cassell in 2016, along with a team of Irish whiskey entrepreneurs who saw the potential of northwest Ireland’s unique climate to produce an iconic Irish whiskey. The region is characterized by dramatic swings in atmospheric pressure that contributes to producing a flavourful, heavily extracted whiskey. The use of custom-designed stills further enhances the unique character of the whiskey.

Other winners included:

Single Pot Still 11 Years and Under

  • Winner: Drumshanbo Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Pinot Noir Cask
  • Gold: Jameson Single Pot Still
  • Gold: Powers Three Swallows

Single Pot Still 12 Years and Over

  • Winner: Red Spot 15 Year Old
  • Gold: Yellow Spot 12 Year Old
  • Gold: Redbreast 15 Year Old

Single Malt 11 Years and Younger

  • Winner: Jack Ryan Whiskey 5-Year-Old Oloroso Finish Cask Strength
  • Gold: Dunville’s 10 Year Old Pedro Ximenez Cask
  • Gold: The Irishman Legacy

Single Malt 12 – 15 Year Old

  • Winner: Tullamore DEW 14 Year Old
  • Gold: Knappogue Castle 12 Year Old
  • Gold: The Irishman 12 Year Old

Single Malt 16 Years & Older

  • Winner: The Irishman 17 Year Old
  • Gold: Dunville’s 21-Year-Old Palo Cortado Cask
  • Gold: McConnell’s Irish Whisky 20 Year Old Port Finish Single Cask

Blended No Age Statement

  • Winner: Writers’ Tears Double Oak
  • Gold: Jameson Crested
  • Gold: Powers Gold Label

Blended Age Statement

  • Winner: McConnell’s Irish Whisky Sherry Cask (5 years)
  • Gold: The Dead Rabbit Irish Whiskey
  • Gold: Clan Colla 13 Year Old

Blended Limited Release

  • Winner: Writers’ Tears Japanese Cask Finish
  • Gold: Dunville’s 1808 “Casked in Bond” Dick Mack’s Honey & Hemp IPA Cask, Cask No. 1451
  • Gold: Writer’s Tears Inniskillin Ice Wine

Peated Irish Whiskey

  • Winner: Micil Single Cask Release with Garavan’s Bar
  • Gold: Killowen Barántúil Single Cask KD202
  • Gold: Celtic Cask 47 Daichead a Seacht 2016 Peated Oloroso

Single Cask 11 Years & Younger

  • Winner: Celtic Cask 44 Daichead a Ceathair 2014 PX Cask Finish
  • Gold: Dunville’s PX 11 Year Old Single Malt Cask Strength
  • Gold: Dunville’s 11 Year Old Palo Cortado Cask Strength

Single Cask 12 Years & Older

  • Winner: Dunville’s 22 Year Old Palo Cortado Cask No. 1204
  • Gold: Dunville’s 20 Year Old Oloroso Cask Strength Cask No. 990 56.2% ABV
  • Gold: Dunville’s 21 Year Old PX Sherry Cask Finish – James J. Fox Single Cask

Cask Strength

  • Winner: Connacht Distillery Exclusive Cask Strength
  • Gold: Redbreast 12 Year Old Cask Strength
  • Gold: Dunville’s 20 Year Old PX Cask Strength, Cask 1644, 55% ABV

Single Grain

  • Winner: The Bridge – Galey Bay
  • Gold: The Bridge – Inny Bay
  • Gold: Method and Madness Single Grain

New Irish Whiskey

  • Winner: Pearse Genesis Irish Whiskey
  • Gold: Fercullen Single Malt
  • Gold: Fercullen Estate Series ‘The Gates’

Many of the award winners are available in the U.S. and Canada. They can also be ordered directly from the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin, Ireland.

Happy New Year!

Sláinte mhaith