The climate for producing British Columbia wine is very unique. All of the BC vineyards are located at the northern extremes of where grape growing is possible. The vineyards are located in two main areas. About 4 hours’ drive east of Vancouver are the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. The second area includes the smaller wine regions of the Fraser Valley, Gulf Islands and Vancouver Island.

British Columbia’s wine industry has seen significant growth over the past 25 years, increasing from 17 wineries and 1,476 acres of vines in 1990 to over 270 wineries and over 10,260 acres today. The B.C. Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) is the provincially-regulated appellation of origin and quality standard for Wines of British Columbia. BC VQA wines must be made from 100% B.C. grapes and meet standards for origin and production, vintage, varietals and quality characteristics that were discussed in my June 22, 2019 post, “Selecting Canadian Wines”.

Vancouver Island

On Vancouver Island, a provincial government-funded trial, called the Duncan Project, determined that grape production was viable.  The study identified Pinot Gris, Auxerrois and Ortega as having the capability of thriving in this seaside environment.

Vancouver Island is now home to a dedicated community of family grape growers and winemakers. There are now 26 wineries in this appellation.

Common varietals include:

• Pinot Gris
• Ortega
• Siegerrebe
• Pinot Noir
• Maréchal Foch

Gulf Islands

The Gulf Islands are situated in the Georgia Strait which separates Vancouver Island from the mainland, and connected by a network of small ferries.  The Gulf Islands are home to about a dozen wineries that are located on each of Salt Spring, Pender, Saturna, Quadra, Gabriola, Hornby and Denman Island.  They display an easygoing lifestyle that allows time to savour the quiet moments with a nice variety of unpretentious wines.

Grape varietals include:

• Pinot Gris
• Orteg
• Pinot Noir
• Maréchal Foch

Fraser Valley

The Fraser Valley region includes Vancouver, Surrey, Richmond, New Westminster to Delta, Langley, Aldergrove and Abbotsford in the east.  The Fraser Valley region is dedicated to producing high quality, handcrafted wines with diverse varieties and styles.  There are about 25 wineries in this region.

Common varietals include: 

• Siegerrebe
• Pinot Gris
• Bacchus
• Pinot Noir

Similkameen Valley

The Similkameen Valley includes 15 wineries that are set amongst the dramatic backdrop of rugged and picturesque mountains. Considered the “organic capital of Canada”, the area is known for small farms and producers dedicated to creating quality produce, delectable foods, and award-winning wines.

Due to the tall surrounding mountains, and the reflectivity of the rock, heat remains in the valley late into the evenings. The valley is arid with persistent winds that can reduce the moisture in the vines and the soil. Even above ground irrigation can evaporate before touching the ground. The wind does minimize mildew, so vineyards generally don’t require frequent spraying.

Grape varietals include:

• Chardonnay
• Riesling
• Merlot
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Cabernet Franc

Okanagan Valley

Boasting 185 wineries and 84% of the province’s vineyard acreage, the Okanagan Valley is BC’s premier grape growing region. The valley stretches over 250 kilometres, across sub-regions, each with distinct soil and climate conditions suited to growing a range of varietals from sun-ripened reds to lively fresh and often crisp whites.

The 185 wineries include everything from quiet family-run boutique vineyards to world-class operations.  The Okanagan Valley wineries are rich in tradition and character, consistently ranking among the world’s best at international competitions.

The Okanagan Valley consists of 8 sub-regions – Kelowna / Lake Country, Peachland / Summerland / Penticton, Naramata Bench, Scaha Bench, Okanagan Valley, Oliver, Golden Mile Bench and Osoyoos.

Golden Mile Bench

The Golden Mile Bench was the first sub-Geographic Indication, created in 2015 within the Okanagan Valley wine region followed by Okanagan Falls, Naramata Bench and Skaha Bench.  Grape production in such areas must produce at commercially viable levels.

Located on the western slope of the valley south of Oliver and across from the Black Sage Bench, the Golden Mile Bench’s southerly aspect provides a warm climate. Its location on the west side of the valley is a cooler region than its eastern neighbour.

A wine made exclusively from grapes grown in the sub-appellation can use the term Golden Mile Bench as a Geographical Indication on a BC VQA Wine label. It’s the location the grapes are grown, rather than the location of the winery that is relevant.

Common varietals include:

• Chardonnay
• Gewürztraminer
• Merlot

Kelowna / Lake Country

B.C.’s first vines were planted in Kelowna in 1859. Kelowna also boasts the province’s oldest continually operating winery, Calona Vineyard (est. 1932). Many of the first families of the BC wine industry call this area home: the Heiss family, who established Gray Monk Estate Winery; the Cipes of Summerhill Pyramid Winery; and the Stewart family of Quails’ Gate Winery.

Grape varietals include:

• Riesling
• Pinot Gris
• Gewürztraminer
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir

Peachland / Summerland / Penticton

This region combines an exciting area of new development with wineries and vineyards that are more than 25 years old. The sub-appellation is renowned for delicious Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Rosé.  There is also an outstanding lineup of sparkling wines.

Grape varietals include:

• Riesling
• Gewürztraminer
• Pinot Noir

Naramata Bench

On May 13, 2019, wineries in the Naramata Bench joined Skaha Bench, Okanagan Falls and Golden Mile Bench, near Oliver, as wineries that meet the requirements of the Wines of Marked Quality Regulation.   B.C. wines and wineries meeting these requirements are certified that they achieve certain wine production standards, and are enabled to use protected labels that are prescribed under this regulation.

Naramata Bench is roughly defined as the bench lands between Penticton Creek and Okanagan Mountain Park on the east side of Okanagan Lake. Nowhere else in the Okanagan Valley are there so many wineries in a single area.

The vineyards of Naramata Bench boast ideal conditions for full-flavoured white varietals, as well as earlier ripening, elegant reds.

Common varietals include:

• Chardonnay
• Pinot Gris
• Merlot
• Pinot Noir

Scaha Bench

On May 13, 2019, wineries in the Skaha Bench joined the Naramata Bench, Okanagan Falls and Golden Mile Bench, near Oliver, as wineries that meet the requirements of the Wines of Marked Quality Regulation. Skaha Bench covers a 10-kilometre stretch from the outskirts of Penticton and along the eastern shore of Skaha Lake.

Wineries in Skaha Bench include Blasted Church, Black Dog, Painted Rock, Pentage and Crescent Hill.

Common varietals include:

• Chardonnay
• Pinot Gris
• Pinot Blanc
• Merlot
• Pinot Noir

Okanagan Falls

On July 27, 2018, the Province named Okanagan Falls a Sub-Geographical Indication within the Okanagan Valley wine region, meaning consumers will now see a confirmation on labels of certified BC wine is from the region.

From the shores of Skaha Lake to the tip of Vaseux Lake, this cluster of award-winning wineries offers unsurpassed winery experiences, and great wines. The wineries in and around Okanagan Falls have been producing some of BC’s most celebrated wines for many years. Warm days and cool nights produce wines with ripe fruit character and acidity. There are a variety of vibrant sparkling wines and crisp Rieslings to complex Pinots and rich Syrahs.

Grape varietals include:

• Riesling
• Gewürztraminer
• Pinot Noir
• Syrah

Oliver

Oliver has been referred to as the ‘Wine Capital of Canada’.  It is home to nearly half of British Columbia’s vines and more than 40 wineries. To the west, the Golden Mile Bench is ideal for white wines such as Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, and bright fruity reds like Cabernet Franc.

To the east lies the Black Sage Bench which cultivates powerful red wines and full-flavoured whites. The combination of hot days and cool nights produce fruit with a perfect balance of exceptional flavours and vibrant acidity.

Common grape varietals include:

• Pinot Gris
• Chardonnay
• Merlot
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Cabernet Franc

Osoyoos

Osoyoos lies at the southern-most tip of the Okanagan Valley, near the Canada-USA border. Officially Canada’s hottest spot, this is red wine country.

Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin red blend has become a favourite of mine after my brother introduced it to me several years ago. I now pick some up whenever I come across it in Ontario.

Grape varietals include:

• Chardonnay
• Merlot
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Cabernet Franc
• Syrah

Kootenays

The Kootenays is situated in the southeastern corner of British Columbia.

In select microclimates, grapes have been grown in the Kootenays since 1995. Although a new viticultural area, ground crops and orchards have been cultivated there for many decades.

6 wineries are located in this region.

Common varieties include:

• Gewürztraminer
• Pinot Gris
• Pinot Noir
• Maréchal Foch

Lillooet

One of the oldest towns in the province, Lillooet is located at the southern tip of the Cariboo Chilcotin region.  The climate is very similar to the traditional grape growing regions in the Okanagan Valley with long, hot, dry summers. However, nights are cooler, making average summer temperatures slightly lower than the Okanagan, but at the same time preserving the fresh crisp acidity in the wines.  Viticulture is a recent development with  only 2 wineries at present.

Common varieties include:

• Riesling
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Gris
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Franc

Shuswap

The Shuswap region is located north of the Okanagan Valley.  Wines have been produced here since 1997, predominately of cool climate varieties as it is one of the most northerly grape growing regions in North America. Shuswap Lake is the dominant feature in the region. Each of the 10 vineyards has its own microclimate, giving special character to its wines.

Common grape varieties:

• Ortega
• Siegerrebe
• Gewürztraminer
• Kerner
• Maréchal Foch

Thompson Valley

On the edge of cool climate viticulture, the 4 Thompson Valley wineries are pioneering an exciting new region and expanding the boundaries of quality BC winemaking.  It is nestled amongst the North and South Thompson Rivers in and around Kamloops, in the rain shadow of the high coastal mountains, with the semi-arid conditions and diverse microclimates.

Common varieties include:

• Riesling
• Chardonnay
• Marquette
• Maréchal Foch

Although I have had the pleasure of visiting British Columbia several times I have never had the opportunity to experience any of the wine regions.  In particular, being a huge red fan, I would love to travel to the Osoyoos area and sample the wonderful offerings there.

Sláinte mhaith

Ontario is the largest wine grape producing province and recognizes the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) as its provincially regulated appellation of origin system.  The VQA is discussed in detail in my June 22, 2019 post, “Selecting Canadian Wines”. 

The province’s three wine-producing appellations are the Niagara Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore and Prince Edward County. They contain over 160 VQA wineries and 17,000 acres of vineyards.

Niagara Peninsula

The Niagara Peninsula has the largest planted area of the viticultural areas in Ontario with 90 wineries and about 15,000 acres of vines. The Niagara Peninsula has two regional appellations and 10 sub-appellations.

I have made numerous treks to Niagara over the years and have developed an ever changing list of favourite wineries that I like to frequent during my excursions to the region.  I will point those out in the sections below. Given that there are now 90 wineries in the region, I have in no way even come close to visiting all the wineries so my recommendations are based only on my own personal experience and research.

Generally speaking (but there are exceptions) I have found that I favour the whites from the sub-appellations north of St. Catharines, toward Toronto, and the reds from the sub-appellations south of St. Catharines, toward Niagara Falls.

Sub-Appellations

There are 10 unique growing areas within the Niagara Peninsula.  Only wines made from 100% grapes grown in the sub-appellation are permitted to include the sub-appellation name on the label.

Niagara River

This is a small strip of land that runs adjacent to the Niagara River.  The soils in the area are primarily stratified glaciolacustrine fine sand that provides natural drainage and encourages the vines to develop deep roots.

One of my favourite wineries, Two Sisters Winery, is located in this sub-appellation. I enjoy both their Stone Eagle and their Stone Eagle Reserve, which are blends of varying proportions of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot

The common grape varietals grown in Niagara River include:

• Vidal
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Franc
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Riesling

Niagara Lakeshore

This region follows the Lake Ontario shoreline from the Welland Canal to the Niagara River.  The soil composition and moderate temperatures resulting from the close proximity of Lake Ontario provide a longer growing season which results in mature full bodied wines.

The common grape varietals consist of:

• Vidal
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Franc
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Riesling

Four Mile Creek

This is the largest of the sub-appellations that makes up central Niagara-on-the-Lake.  During the growing season this area provides warm days and cool nights providing growers the opportunity of growing many different varieties of grapes.

The common types of grapes grown include:

• Vidal
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Franc
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Riesling

St. David’s Bench

This is the natural glacial bench that was carved out of the Niagara Escarpment.  The escarpment provides early spring warming and frost protection for the vines.

There are 2 wineries on my favourites list that are located on St. David’s Bench, Chateau des Charmes and Ravine Vineyard.  I am a fan of the red wines produced by both wineries.

Grape production in St. David’s Bench includes:

• Vidal
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Franc
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Riesling

Creek Shores

Creek Shores is bound by Lake Ontario, Twelve Mile Creek, Twenty Mile Bench and Jordan Harbour.  Temperatures are moderated by Lake Ontario.

Grapes grown include:

• Sauvignon Blanc
• Pinot Noir
• Chardonnay

Lincoln Shoreline

Lake Ontario has a major impact on this sub-appellation providing longer, tempered growing conditions and even ripening of the grapes.

The types of grapes grown include:

• Chardonnay
• Riesling
• Cabernet Franc
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Syrah
• Gamay
• Semillon

Short Hills Bench

Short Hills Bench is the most easterly of the appellations located between Twelve Mile Creek and Fifteen Mile Creek.  It provides warm days and cool nights which are perfect for enhancing grape flavours.

The varietals grown here include:

• Riesling
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Franc
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Vidal
• Gewürztraminer

Twenty Mile Bench

The bench is dissected by Twenty Mile Creek.  There is a high proportion of limestone and shale making the soil quite alkaline.  The sheltered north facing slopes provide year round temperature moderation.

This is a rare situation where I favour white and red wine from the same appellation.  I enjoy the whites of Featherstone Estate Winery and the reds of Rockway Vineyards.

The list of varietals grown on the Twenty Mile Bench includes:

• Riesling
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Franc
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Vidal
• Gewürztraminer

Beamsville Bench

This is a narrow bench area that benefits from good air circulation and frost protection.  The air circulation minimizes temperature swings and consistent growing conditions.

Angels Gate Winery produces some great white wines such as Unoaked Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewürztraminer, while Cave Spring Cellars makes a good Chardonnay Musque and Fielding Estate Winery makes great Riesling and Chardonnay.

The varietals grown on the Beamsville Bench include:

• Riesling
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Franc
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Vidal
• Gewürztraminer

Vinemount Ridge

This sub-appellation contains shallow south-facing slopes.  The area provides early spring warming with warm days and cool nights.

Grapes grown include:

• Pinot Noir
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Gris
• Riesling
• Gewürztraminer
• Cabernet Franc
• Vidal

Regional Appellations                            

There are 2 regional appellations in Niagara; each consisting of several sub-appellations.  However, not all of the sub-appellations are included as part of a regional appellation.  This raises the question as to why these regional appellations are necessary since many of the sub-appellations are not included.  However, I digress.

In order to apply for the Regional Appellation designation, the wine must have 85% of the grapes sourced from within an associated sub-appellation with the balance from within the Niagara Peninsula.                    

Niagara-on-the-Lake

Niagara-on-the-Lake is the area bounded by the Niagara River, Niagara Lakeshore, Four Mile Creek and St. David’s Bench.  A minimum of 85% of the grapes must be sourced within these sub-appellations with the balance coming from elsewhere within the Niagara Peninsula.

The common grape varieties of this regional appellation include:

• Vidal
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Franc
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Riesling

Niagara Escarpment

The Short Hills Bench, Twenty Mile Bench and Beamsville Bench together form the Niagara Escarpment.  In order to use this designation a wine must consist of 85% of the grapes coming from these sub-appellations with the balance from elsewhere within the Niagara Peninsula.

The grapes grown include:

• Riesling
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Franc
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Vidal
• Gewürztraminer

Prince Edward County

Prince Edward County was created as a new growing region in 2007. Some see the future of wine in “The County” in premium wines produced from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  There are now in excess of 40 wineries in the region.

Grapes grown in the region include:

• Pinot Noir
• Gamay Noir
• Vidal
• Chardonnay
• Cabernet Franc
• Baco Noir
• Chambourcin
• Marechal Foch
• Seyval Blanc
• Gewürztraminer
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Syrah
• Merlot

Climate

Most vineyards are located in areas that receive maximum benefit from lake breezes. Prevailing westerly breezes travel steadily across Lake Ontario and the Bay of Quinte to help moderate temperatures. They are especially beneficial during the warm summer months, keeping average temperatures around 22°C, with pleasant cooling during the hotter days and keeping cool nights at bay.

Topography

The County’s topography is irregular, with hills creating various exposures for the vines, and valleys digging into the broad, flat Trenton limestone base. A gradual rise from northeast to southwest is crossed by a number of long, gentle east-west ridges and occasionally steep, rugged escarpments. On the northern and eastern shorelines, rocky bluffs rise to an elevation of 30 m (98 ft) or more above Lake Ontario, while the western shore has many inlets with sandy shores and large sandbars that define bodies of water such as West Lake and East Lake.

Soil

Top soils range from reddish-brown clay loam to sandy loam and overlay limestone bedrock embedded with shale fragments. The stony surface and numerous rock and shale fragments within the soils allow water to drain into the limestone, which ensures good drainage of winter-melt and substantial root penetration for mature vines. This rocky soil also allows good heat conduction and retention and encourages early warming in the spring.

My favourite wineries in Prince Edward County include Keint-He (pronounced “Quinte”) Winery and Vineyards, Sandbanks  Winery, and Stanners Vineyard.  In all cases I am a fan of their reds but Sandbanks has some fun whites as well.

The one thing to note with Sandbanks is that being one of the largest, if not the largest, producer in the region, they purchase a large portion of their grapes from other growers in the area. This limits their ability to control the source grapes and the flavour impacts from the wide range of soil types existing within the County. Therefore, in order to ensure conistency in taste, I have found that the wines produced with grapes grown in Sandbanks own vineyards are well worth seeking out.

The foolproof way to determine which wines contain their own grapes is to ask a member of their knowlegeable staff. However, based on my own experience, wines identifying a bin number or including “Reserve” in the title, have been produced using Sandbanks own grapes.

Lake Erie North Shore

The Lake Erie North Shore appellation contains one sub-appellation, the South Islands, which includes Canada’s southernmost vineyards on Pelee Island, including Canada’s largest estate winery, Pelee Island Winery.

Climate

Lake Erie North Shore has a long growing season. It benefits from the quick summer warming of the shallow waters of Lake Erie as well as from an abundance of sunshine during the growing season. Early harvests are the norm, with picking usually beginning at the end of August and late-harvest varieties often reaching their peak by late October.

Topography

Bounded on the northwest side by Lake St. Clair, to the west by the fast flowing Detroit River, with Lake Erie to the south, and including the nine islands in Lake Erie, which make up the South Islands sub-appellation, Lake Erie North Shore appellation is almost completely surrounded by water. Numerous short, shallow streams found throughout this appellation flow freely in the spring but often dry down to a trickle in the warm summer. The appellation is made up of long, gentle slopes that face in all directions, with elevations ranging from 172 m (564 ft) to 196 m (643 ft) above sea level. With no major topographic barrier to the prevailing southwesterly winds, this appellation enjoys the full effect of the lake breeze that moderates the entire area during the long growing season.

Soil

The soil composition was greatly affected by the glacial lakes, which deposited large amounts of unsorted stony materials in the area. When the glacial lakes elsewhere retreated, this area remained covered in deep waters for a longer period, allowing waves to smooth out the ridges and deposit considerable amounts of sediment. The light-textured, well-drained soils around the lakeshore contain mostly sandy loam and gravel deposits punctuated by small, irregular stony ridges, which overlie shale limestone bedrock. The South Islands have similar soil makeup as the mainland, and the majority of the vineyards are planted on the southwestern corner and centre of Pelee Island (the largest of the islands), where the soils are the deepest and allow for root systems to properly set.

There are currently 15 wineries in the Lake Erie North Shore region.  Personally I am not very familiar with these wineries.  However I can say that over the years I have enjoyed a number of the reds from Pelee Island Winery, in particular their Meritage and Cabernet Sauvignon.

I have not experienced the pleasure of visiting Lake Erie North Shore but have enjoyed a number of the wines produced there.

Sláinte mhaith

The wine appellations of Quebec are located in the Eastern Townships of Montérégie, Ouest-du-Québec, Est-du-Québec, and Centre-du-Québec.

While the first grapes grown in Québec can be traced to the early days of “New France”, the industry really began to blossom in the 1980s.

Today there are about 140 wineries (most are artisanal) in the province located in six primary wine regions: Laurentides, Lanaudière, Montérégie, Estrie, Capitale-Nationale and Centre-du-Québec.

The Québec wine industry is responsible for a total of 1,975 acres of grapevines and 45 different grape varietals grow across the province.

Over half of Quebec’s wineries are found in the two tourist regions that produce the most wine, namely the Eastern Townships and Montérégie. Various wine routes enable you to discover the secrets of Quebec viniculture.

The vine varieties that seem to grow the best in Quebec are those of Northern France, Germany, and North-Eastern United States. Some 40 varieties are grown in Quebec, with the most commonly planted being,

Red Wine

• Sainte-Croix
• Maréchal Foch
• Frontenac
• Sabrevois
• De Chaunac

White Wine

• Vidal
• Seyval Blanc
• L’Acadie Blanc
• Vandal-Cliche
• Geisenheim

Vines used in red wine make up 60% of the total planted area.

Several Québec wines are available at SAQ (Société des alcools du Québec) outlets. You may also discover them at the wineries and some public markets throughout Québec.

Sláinte mhaith