Fortified Wines

A fortified wine is a wine-based beverage that is often enjoyed as a before or after dinner drink.  These still wines have been “fortified” with a distilled spirit such as brandy. The original use of fortification was to preserve the wine as it was prone to turn to vinegar during long sea voyages.

The spirit added might also enhance the wine’s natural flavors. The liquor is added to the base wine during fermentation. This fortification process increases the alcohol content from 12% – 13% up to around 17% – 20% by volume.

Fortified wines can be made in either a dry or a sweet style. The middle-ground of medium-sweet or medium-dry is covered in virtually all of the fortified wine categories and they will vary from one producer to the next.

How Fortified Wine is Made

Many fortified wines are blends of various grapes and vintages. Fortified wines are not distilled so are not liquor even though they are sometimes mistakenly categorized as such. This is particularly true of vermouth because it is used in making martinis.

Quite often, the fortifying liquor is simply called a “neutral grape spirit.” Essentially, this is a brandy or eau de vie (the water of life). The amount of time a wine is allowed to ferment before being fortified determines whether it will be sweet or dry.

Once the alcohol is added to the wine, the yeast stops converting sugar to alcohol and all of the remaining grape sugar is left in the wine as residual sugar. If a sweeter fortified wine is desired, the neutral grape spirits are typically added within the first day and a half of fermentation. To make a dry fortified wine, you would allow the full fermentation process to run its course. This consumes the remaining sugar before adding the neutral grape spirits.

Most fortified wines have no additional flavoring agents. However vermouth often has botanicals added during the process to give it an herbal flavour.

Aging

Many fortified wines undergo aging in wood casks. The actual aging time depends on the fortified wine. In general, the cheaper the fortified wine, the less time it has spent aging in oak. As a result of this deep wood aging, many fortified wines will benefit from decanting and aeration.  For additional information on decanting see the November 9, 2019 post “To Breathe or not to Breathe”.

Types of Fortified Wine

The types of fortified wine vary by regional preferences or the methods used in producing them.

Madeira

Madeira is a white fortified wine from the Portuguese island of the same name. It comes with various classifications, including by grape and age.  The wine can range from dry to sweet, and is most notable for its aging process known as estufagem.  Madeira is made from a combination of heating and aging, along with oxidization and mild pasteurization. Madeira can be produced in two ways: either over a period of months with hot water tanks or steam, or naturally over a period of decades.

Marsala

Marsala is an Italian specialty originating in Marsala, a city on the Italian island of Sicily. It is classified by both color and age, with sweet and dry varieties represented.  Sweetness is measured by grams of residual sugar per litre. Alcohol content ranges from 15% to 20% by volume, and styles run from dry aperitivos to sweet dessert-style wines.

Commandaria

Commandaria is from Cyprus and is predominately a sweet dessert wine. It’s made with only two types of grapes, Xynisteri and Mavro, which are indigenous to the island. It’s said to have a history of production stretching back nearly 3,000 years. Maximum alcohol content is 20% by volume, and the wine’s taste is highly rich, sweet, and fruity.

Moscatel de Setúbal

The Portuguese love their fortified wine, and this is another geographically specified rendition coming from the city of Setúbal, located in the Setúbal Peninsula along the country’s coast. It’s primarily made from the Muscat grape, and is dominated by a single company, José Maria da Fonseca. The style is known for more floral, and sometimes funky aromas because of the Muscat grape skins that are added after the distilled spirit has been incorporated into the wine.

Port

Port wine is the best-known fortified wine.  It originally comes from Portugal’s Duoro Valley. However, it is now produced throughout the world. You can choose from tawny, ruby, vintage, and white ports.  Grapes must be grown and processed in the region, and to become port, the wine is fortified with unaged brandy before fermentation is complete to yield a product with around 20% per volume. Port is most commonly rich and sweet, but a range of styles exist.

Ruby Port

Ruby Port and Reserve Port are fruity Ports that are aged for a short time in a vat or tank. They are intended to be drunk at a young age.

Tawny Port       

Tawny Port is aged in vats, and Aged Tawny can be aged for up to 40 years. The older the Port, the more intense the ageing bouquet is, adding complex layers of flavours to the standard fruity tastes. Aged Tawny is typically available in 10, 20, 30 and 40-year-old formats. It will be bottled when it is ready to be drunk, meaning that you can drink it straight away without having to patiently wait for this ageing process to happen.

Vintage Port

The finest wine available from a specific vintage will be bottled earlier than most Ports and will require bottle aging to mature the flavours further. This is quite different to the other types of Port, which are matured in vats and ready to drink when bought. There won’t be a Vintage Port every year, as only the very best harvests are turned into Vintage Port.

Late Bottled Vintage Port

Late Bottled Vintage Port is produced from a single vintage wine that is aged for around seven years in a cask, as opposed to being bottled earlier as with the Vintage Port. This process creates a very fruity, yet highly tannic wine.

Sherry

Sherry is a well-known fortified wine produced in Southwest Spain. It comes in fino (dry and light-bodied) and oloroso (dry but richer) styles.

Sherry originates from Andalucía in the south of Spain. Viticulture has been practised in this region for over 3,000 years, making it one of the oldest wine producing areas in Europe.

The primary grape type used is the Palomino Fino varietal, which is a white grape with good levels of acidity. While Palomino Fino is used for most styles of Sherry, the Pedro Ximenez grape is used for sweeter styles of wine.

The process of producing sherry is very complex and particular and differs from other fortified wine-making practices. White wine is fermented and placed in a ‘Solera System’ which are barrels that are stacked up on their sides in a pyramid-like shape. Yeast develops on the wine, known as flor, which stops the wine turning to vinegar and adding extra spice and flavour to the wine. The wine gets transferred from the top of the Solera system down through each layer over time, blending with older wine each time to create a complex ageing process. Alternatively, sherry can be aged oxidatively, by being left in contact with the air.

A number of types of sherry are produced:

Fino

Fino is a dry sherry that is aged solely under the yeast layer, producing a lighter drink, in both style and colour. It is also the least alcoholic form of Sherry, as it will only be fortified to 15% by volume.

Oloroso

Oloroso sherry is produced simply by leaving the wine in contact with the air, so no yeast is added to this style. It, therefore, presents far more intense flavours and colours and tends to be far more alcoholic than Fino sherry – usually a minimum of 18% by volume.

Palo Cortado

Palo Cortado and Amontillado style sherry is aged firstly under flor, before being aged oxidatively, producing a dry wine fortified to around 17 % by volume.

Cream Sherry

Cream and Dulce Sherry is produced using a sweeter grape varietal for a more dessert-like sip. These sherries tend to see the most variation in quality and price.

Vermouth

Vermouth is probably better known as the “other” ingredient in a martini, but it’s great to sip on its own as an aperitif. It is generally available as either dry or sweet. Vermouth is produced worldwide and varies in taste and quality depending on the producer.

Others

There are other fortified wines that do not fit conveniently into one of these categories. Those typically rely on proprietary recipes and, quite often, utilize a special blend of herbs or botanicals to make them distinct from all others. Dubonnet and Lillet are two labels that fall into this non-category.

Storing Fortified Wines

Since fortified wines vary by style, it’s difficult to give general guidelines about storing and serving. While it is best to look into the recommendations for a particular type, there are a few suggestions you can keep in mind.

Unopened bottles of fortified wine can be stored in a cool, dark location. Some, such as fino and manzanilla sherry, should not sit on the shelf long after bottling. Others will be okay for a few months.

Once opened, it is best to drink fortified wines as soon as possible. However, vermouth can retain its flavor for up to three months. All open bottles of fortified wine should be stored upright in the refrigerator.

Serving Recommendations

Similar to other wines, serving temperatures vary with fortified wines. While some are best chilled, others should be served at room temperature. This is also going to depend on your personal preference as well.

While any fortified wine is designed to be enjoyed straight from the bottle, they’re useful in mixing up cocktails. They’re often best in simple drinks, such as the sherry cobbler and white port and tonic.

Fortified wines also make a great cooking wine. If you find that your wine is too far gone to drink, add it to a sauce or another recipe that calls for a little wine.

Foods Pairings

Food pairings depend on which type of fortified wine you are drinking. In general, fortified wines are known as both an aperitif and a dessert wine option.  Many kinds of cheese, nuts, fruit tarts, and cream-based or chocolate desserts have found a magnificent pairing partner in a fortified wine.

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A Star is Born

There is increasing evidence of celebrities being associated with wine brands.  However, it is not a recent phenomenon, though it has certainly garnered more attention in today’s Information Age. Usually celebrities have a large amount of wealth accumulated, which makes the significant investment in opening a winery or vineyard negligible.

There are many reasons that celebrities gravitate to the world of wine. Starting a winery or vineyard can offer some tax benefits. Some celebrities, such as the Italian-American director Francis Ford Coppola, come from a family with a long history of winemaking. Others such as the British singer Cliff Richard, have been lifelong wine enthusiasts and enter the wine industry in order to do something that they enjoy. Still others like the challenge of a new enterprise. Some celebrities enter the wine industry simply because they can.

Celebrities, such as the American actors Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie, Johnny Depp, and British football star David Beckham and his wife Victoria, own vineyards and wine estates solely for personal use. Some other celebrities leverage their name recognition as a selling tool in the wine industry.

Celebrities have different degrees of involvement in their wineries and vineyards. Nearly all of them partner, in some form of collaboration, with a winery or winemaker who is already established in the industry.

Sarah Jessica Parker, the former Sex and the City star, has debuted her Sauvignon Blanc and Rosé collection. She has a partnership with New Zealand-based winery Invivo.  The self-proclaimed wine lover is said to have her hand in every step of the winemaking process, including naming and design of the bottles.

The Speaker of the U.S. House of Representatives, Nancy Pelosi, owns two vineyards that sell grapes to California wine producers.

Sometimes the celebrity may own their own “wine brand” which is produced with the collaborating winery instead of owning a physical winery or wine estate itself. An example of this is Wayne Gretzky Estates, which is one of the brands owned by Andrew Peller Limited, who also owns Peller Estates Winery, Sandhill, Trius Winery, Red Rooster, Calona Vineyards and Thirty Bench Wine Makers.  Each is a unique winery operating with its own vintner, wines and labels.  I am sure that Mr. Gretzky is involved to at least some degree in the winery’s operation.

Some celebrities lend their names to a winery for a special wine production.  Examples of this include Niagara’s Stoney Ridge, who produces The Tragically Hip Fully Completely Reserve Red and The Tragically Hip Ahead by a Century Chardonnay.

Tawse winery has created Cuddy, a sparkling wine that has been developed in partnership with Blue Rodeo lead singer, Jim Cuddy.

For the art lovers out there, Niagara’s Diamond Estates winery produces McMichael Collection Tom Thomson Cabernet Franc and McMichael Collection Tom Thomson Barrel-Aged Chardonnay, paying for the rights to have Thompson’s paintings displayed on the bottle.

Does celebrity ownership impact the price of the wine? If the celebrity is involved in the ownership or operation of the winery, I would say no. However, where endorsements or royalties are being paid by the winery to the celebrity, I would speculate that such costs do impact the price.  As a result, in this situation the consumer pays marginally more for a wine bearing the name of a celebrity than another wine of a similar quality. 

However, if you are a fan of a particular celebrity or a particular label design, then the novelty may be worth the slight increase in cost.  After all, the beauty (and taste) lies with the consumer.

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The Wines of Portugal

Personally, I find Portuguese wines a bit of a mystery.  Although there are some excellent creations being produced, they don’t seem to receive the same notoriety as wines from Italy, Spain or France.

Because Portugal’s wine culture developed in relative isolation, there are many grape varieties that do not grow anywhere else in the world.  There are over 250 indigenous varieties and a few imports that have adapted well to the Portuguese landscape. According to many wine experts, Portugal is the last frontier of wine in Western Europe explored. So with all the excitement this region offers, let’s take a look at what there is to know about the major wines and the regions.

DOC (or DOP) – DOC stands for Denominação de Origem Controlada and means the wine comes from a strictly defined geographical area with recommended and permitted grapes and maximum vine yields (to control quality). Technically there are 31 DOCs in Portugal although 3 of them overlap, making it seem more like 28.

Vinho Regional (or IGP) – Portugal is divided into 14 regional wine  areas which have less strict rules for controlling which types of grapes are used, as well as maximum vine yields. While this implies that the wines will not be as high quality, many producers in Portugal use the Vinho Regional designation to create excellent wines using grapes or blends not allowed in DOC.

Vinho (Wine): The most basic classification of Portuguese table wine. These wines are generally not distributed outside of Portugal.

Each region is managed by a regional “Wine and Vine” commission, the Comissão Vitivinícola Regional (CVR). Each CVR supervises and controls the quality regulations in order to ensure quality and to maintain each region’s individual character.

Portuguese Wine Terms

Vinho Tinto – Red Wine

Vinho Branco – White Wine

Quinta – Wine farm. You’ll often find this word as part of a winery’s name on the label of wines.

The Wine Regions

Douro Region

Port is the most famous, and most copied, wine from Portugal and it grows in the Douro Valley.

Wines of Douro

Port – Fortified sweet wines; specifically LBV Port, Tawny Port, and Vintage Port wines which are the best and made by blending “port grapes” which include Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Tinta Barrocca and Tinto Cão among many others.

White Port and Pink Port – Beyond the red Port there are also Port wines made with the rare white wine varieties in the region. Rosé Port is relatively new.

Tinto Douro – Full-bodied red wines. The same red grapes of Port wine are used to create full-bodied, tannic, age-worthy red wines.

Douro Branco – Light-bodied white wines. Douro Branco are crisp, minerally white wines with very little fruity flavour, subtle flinty notes and salinity, and high acidity. Douro white wines are a little harder to find and include the white Port varieties of Rabigato, Viosinho, Gouveio, and Folgazão.

Terras de Cister (Távora e Varosa) Region

Terras de Cister – Sparkling wines

This area produces wines with much more elegance and acidity than Douro, making it ideal for sparkling wines. There are a growing number of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards being planted along with the regional varieties of Malvasia Fina (aromatic white), Cerceal (light white), Gouveio (light white), Aragonês (aka Tempranillo), Tinta Barroca (red) and Touriga Franca (red) among others.

Transmontano (Trás-Os-Montes) Region

Tinto Transmontano – Full-bodied red blends

The most common wine from this area is Transmontano, which is a regional red blend. Wines are full-bodied, punchy, with higher alcohol levels.

Minho (Vinho Verde) Region

Vinho Verde wines are best served young when the wine is at its peak of aromatics and crisp acidity.

Wines of Minho

Branco Vinho Verde – Light-bodied white wines. Wines often have a slight spritz and fruity, lemonade-like flavors with notes of melon, gooseberry and chalky texture. White Vinho Verde wines are made with a blend of several grape varieties including Arinto, Azal, Trajadura, Loureiro and Alvarinho (a.k.a Albariño).

Rosado Vinho Verde – Rosé. The Rosado wines offer red berry flavors with quenching acidity like lemonade. The reds/rosés of Vinho Verde are found primarily in the southern part of Minho in the sub-regions of Amarante and Paiva. Red grape varieties include Alvarelhão, Amaral, Borraçal, Espadeiro, Padeiro (quite rare).

Alentejo Region

The Alentejo region contains many progressive and modern wineries making red wines that offer generous fruit and mocha flavors with refined tannins from careful wood aging strategies. White wines from the Alentejo range from medium-bodied refreshers to full-bodied in a style similar to Chardonnay.

Wines of Alentejo

Tinto Alentejo – Full-bodied red wines that are typically blends made with Aragonês (Tempranillo), Trincadeira, Castelão, Alfrocheiro and Alicante Bouschet.

Branco Alentejo – Light-bodied and full-bodied white wines made with Arinto (fuller in style), Antão Vaz (fuller in style), Roupeiro and Fernão Pires (an aromatic white variety).

Alentejano (IGP/Vinho Regional) – Full-bodied red and white wines from a larger encompassing region that may include non-indigenous grape varieties (Viognier and Syrah are growing in popularity here).

Lisboa Region

There are many wines from the various regions in Lisboa (Alenquer, Bucelas) that are already making their way into stores internationally. While there is great quality found in Lisboa (Bucelas, Colares, Alenquer, Arruda) most of the wines you’ll find available are great for everyday drinking.

Wines of Lisboa

Alenquer – Concentrated, high tannin red wines made with Castelão, Alfrocheiro, Aragonês (Tempranillo) and Touriga Nacional

Bucelas – Light-bodied, citrus and beeswax-driven, age-worthy white wines made with Arinto. .

Arruda – Full-bodied red wines that often include international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah

Colares – Very rare find. Golden colored, full-bodied white wines in an oxidative style made with Malvasia Fina

Óbidos and Lourinhã – Light-bodied aromatic white wines particularly with Fernão Pires

Torres Vedras –  simple, low-alcohol refreshing white wines.

Setúbal Region

The region of Setúbal is famous for a fantastic rich, deep gold colored dessert wine called Moscatel de Setúbal

Dão Region

Wines from the Dão are lighter in style than in the Douro but have shown to age very well because of the tannin and acidity development from growing in high altitude areas with rugged soils of decomposing granite and schist (similar to Douro and Priorat).

Wines of Dão

Dão Alfrocheiro – Medium-bodied red wine with red berry flavors, licorice and spice notes

Dão Jaen (a.k.a. Mencía) – Full-bodied red wine. Raspberry and black cherry flavors with moderately high acidity and mouth-drying tannin.

Dão Touriga Nacional – Full-bodied red wine. Deep black fruit flavors with chocolate and mocha with refined tannins and medium plus acidity

Terras do Dão and Terras de Lafões – The Vinho Regional wines of the Dão with more experimentation and blends that include international varieties (Indi blends)

Tejo Region

Tejo plants all kinds of grapes, from Alvarinho (the grape of Vinho Verde) to the full-bodied blackish Alicante Bouschet. This is a good region for getting super value from Portugal.

Wines of Tejo

Red “Indi” Blends – Blends consisting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira and Castalão

White “Indi” Blends – Consists of blends with Fernão Pires (an aromatic white wine), Arinto, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay

Beira Atlântico (Bairrada) Region

Baga is the highly productive red grape of Beira, grown in Bairrada. From the aromatic and delightfully pink sparkling wines by Luis Pato to the soft, structured light-bodied red wines by Niepoort, this area is one of the new frontiers of winemaking for the Portuguese.

Wines of Beira Atlântico

Tinto Bairrada – Made from Baga and ranging from dense, tar-like, high acid reds to delicate, red fruit-driven wines with finely textured tannins and the ability to age.

Branco Bairrada – Made from the aromatic Fernão Pires (called Maria Gomes here), Bical and Arinto

Sparkling “Brut” Bairrada – Delicious beeswax-driven sparkling wines made with early picked Baga and Fernão Pires.

The Beira Interior

The most mountainous region in Portugal has one of the most challenging climates to produce grapes. With a shorter growing season the reds have red-fruit driven flavors with herbaceous smoky notes and a juicy finish while the white wines tend to be lean with chalky minerality. There are many old vines here as well as producers using native yeasts and organic viticulture.

Wines of the Beira

Tinto Beira – Red fruit-driven wines of Murufo, Bastardo, Alfrocheiro, Trincadeira and Touriga Nacional

Branco Beira – Lean, chalky white wines of Síria, Arinto, Malvasia

Madeira & Pico Island (Azores)

Verdelho is the main regional white wine grape. Wine from Pico is golden, viscous liquid that is hauntingly sweet, tart and somewhat salty with a smokiness from the volcanic landscape. Madeira, on the other hand, has the most collected and appreciated fortified wines in the world.

Algarve Region

There are nearly 2500 acres / 1000 hectares of grapes in the Algarve.  The wines aren’t designed to age, but there is hope in particular for red wines with Alicante Bouschet, Syrah and Aragonês (Tempranillo). These drought-climate varieties still manage to have juicy acidity and create more smoky sweet, dusty notes on the finish somewhat reminiscent to South Australia.

The wines of Portugal are well worth a try.  The wines are both good and available at a favourable price point.

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Hosting a Wine Party

Are you suffering from the mid-winter blahs?  If so, have you ever given any thought to hosting a wine party?  A wine party provides the opportunity for self-awareness as you may discover you like a wine you never thought you would.  It is a great way to expand your horizons and try different wines.

Depending on the number of participants, ask each person or couple to bring a favourite wine.  It doesn’t need to be expensive and you can even put a price cap on it if you like.

If you will be sampling both whites and reds then follow the standard practice of wine tasting – whites first, reds last.  You could also do a theme tasting, such as have all the wines from the same region or country, or wines made with the same grape varietal.

Blind tastings where the labels are covered can be both challenging and fun.  Doing a blind tasting allows your participants to try and identify the wine they brought.  You can try identifying the various types /varietals, and possibly even hazard a guess as to the country/continent of origin that each wine came from. 

When tasting the wine you can see if you can distinguish between the different smells and tastes, such as florals, honey, fruit varieties, cedar, chicory, earthiness, leather, tobacco, etc. and then see whether your perceptions match the wine reviewers’ claims.

Also consider suggesting food pairings that may complement the wines.

The portions for each tasting need not be more than 2 ounces and it isn’t necessary to swallow the wine.  For those who don’t want to swallow, disposable beer pong glasses make great spittoons.

It is also a good idea to provide water and plain crackers, such as Carr’s Water Crackers, so you and your guests can refresh your palate between wines.

I hosted a tasting where I invited several couples, asking each couple to bring a bottle of white and a bottle of red of their choosing.  I made up score sheets where each person indicated what they tasted, how they rated it, and guessed at the varietal of the wine.  I also provided them with a “cheat sheet” to help them organize their thoughts and aid in their decision making.  The rating card and cheat sheet are below.

The person with the highest score was awarded a prize.  The tasting was followed by dinner and each person could then select their own wine pairing from all the wines we had tasted.

If you don’t have an adequate number of wine glasses on hand, I suggest purchasing inexpensive glass ones.   Your local Dollar Store should have a suitable selection to choose from. In addition to being more environmentally friendly, they are also much less flimsy and less susceptible to spills than plastic glasses.

Your wine party can be as simple or elaborate as you want to make it.  The most important thing is to have fun.

Sláinte mhaith

Score Card

Judge # ______            Wine #______                                                                                 

Determine the Sweetness or Level of Dryness

  1. Do you feel a tingling sensation on the tip of your tongue?
  2. Is there a slight oily sensation in the middle of your tongue that lingers?
  3. Wine has a higher viscosity; wine tears on side of glass slowly. (also an indicator of high Alcohol)

WARNING:  A bone-dry wine can often be confused with a wine with high Tannin.

Do you consider this to be a        sweet        or       dry         wine?

Acidity

Acidity is tart and zesty. Tasting acidity can be confused with the taste of higher Alcohol. Wines with higher acidity feel lighter weight because they come across as ‘spritzy.’

Acidity Characteristics:

  1. Tingling sensation that focuses on the front and sides of your tongue. Feels like pop rocks.
  2. If you rub your tongue to the roof of your mouth it feels gravelly.
  3. Your mouth feels wet, like you bit into an apple.

HINT:  It is common for wines grown in cooler climates to have higher acidity.

Do you consider this wine to have a high acid content?       Yes       or        No

Tannin

Characteristics of Tannins

  1. The wine tastes bitter on the front inside of your mouth and along the side of your tongue.
  2. Tannin makes your tongue dry out.
  3. After you swallow you feel a lingering bitter/dry feeling in your mouth.

CAUTION:  Tannin can often be confused with the term “dry” because it dries your mouth out.

Does this wine have a high tannin content?       Yes      or       No

Fruit

Wines are often characterized by their main fruit flavours. Tasting for fruit flavours in a wine can help you better define your preferences. For instance, wines that have strawberry notes lead into a very different set of wines than enjoying wines that taste like blackberries. The level of fruitiness that you taste in a wine leads to very different growing regions.

Tasting for fruitiness in a wine

Red wind characteristics:  red fruits such as raspberry or dark fruits like blackberry and blueberry

White wine characteristics:  lemon and lime or peach and yellow apple

  1. Can you name 3 different fruits easily?  If so, what are they?    ______________________________________
  2. Do you find it difficult to pick out a single fruit flavor?     ___________________________________________
  3. Does the wine give you stronger impressions of other flavors such as grass, bell pepper, black pepper, olive or meat?  ___________________________________________________________________________________

Body: Light to Full-Bodied

Alcohol Level ABV (or Alcohol by Volume) adds body. The wine will have a higher viscosity which is easily seen in watching it bead on the side of the glass. A high alcohol wine typically tastes fuller bodied than a light-alcohol wine.

Tasting body in wine

  1. How does the wine seem       lighter        or           bigger  ?
  2. How long does the taste last in your mouth after you’ve swallowed?     _________ seconds
  3. Is the wine full bodied up front but then drops off at the finish?             Yes                No

YOUR OVERALL RATING

  1. I cannot tell a lie; this wine does not suit my taste in any way, shape or form.
  2. I am not a fan.  It is a bit of a “yawner” if you ask me.
  3. I would be willing to serve this as a house wine for dinner parties.
  4. Yummy, I would be willing to serve this to close friends and/or on special occasions.
  5. Share – no way.  I want to keep this all for myself.

I think this wine came from ______________________________________ (country or continent)

I think the type of wine is

 WHITE RED
 Gewurztraminer Gamay
 Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio Baco Noir
 Chablis Pinot Noir
 Pinot Blanc Valpolicella
 Riesling Merlot
 Viognier Zinfandel
 Sauvignon Blanc Cabernet (Cab Franc, Cab Sauv)
 Chardonnay Malbec
 Semillon Syrah or Shiraz
 Other  _____________________________ Other  _____________________________

Cheat Sheet

Canada’s Wine Regions – Part 4 – British Columbia

The climate for producing British Columbia wine is very unique. All of the BC vineyards are located at the northern extremes of where grape growing is possible. The vineyards are located in two main areas. About 4 hours’ drive east of Vancouver are the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. The second area includes the smaller wine regions of the Fraser Valley, Gulf Islands and Vancouver Island.

British Columbia’s wine industry has seen significant growth over the past 25 years, increasing from 17 wineries and 1,476 acres of vines in 1990 to over 270 wineries and over 10,260 acres today. The B.C. Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) is the provincially-regulated appellation of origin and quality standard for Wines of British Columbia. BC VQA wines must be made from 100% B.C. grapes and meet standards for origin and production, vintage, varietals and quality characteristics that were discussed in my June 22, 2019 post, “Selecting Canadian Wines”.

Vancouver Island

On Vancouver Island, a provincial government-funded trial, called the Duncan Project, determined that grape production was viable.  The study identified Pinot Gris, Auxerrois and Ortega as having the capability of thriving in this seaside environment.

Vancouver Island is now home to a dedicated community of family grape growers and winemakers. There are now 26 wineries in this appellation.

Common varietals include:

  • Pinot Gris
  • Ortega
  • Siegerrebe
  • Pinot Noir
  • Maréchal Foch

Gulf Islands

The Gulf Islands are situated in the Georgia Strait which separates Vancouver Island from the mainland, and connected by a network of small ferries.  The Gulf Islands are home to about a dozen wineries that are located on each of Salt Spring, Pender, Saturna, Quadra, Gabriola, Hornby and Denman Island.  They display an easygoing lifestyle that allows time to savour the quiet moments with a nice variety of unpretentious wines.

Grape varietals include:

  • Pinot Gris
  • Orteg
  • Pinot Noir
  • Maréchal Foch

Fraser Valley

The Fraser Valley region includes Vancouver, Surrey, Richmond, New Westminster to Delta, Langley, Aldergrove and Abbotsford in the east.  The Fraser Valley region is dedicated to producing high quality, handcrafted wines with diverse varieties and styles.  There are about 25 wineries in this region.

Common varietals include: 

  • Siegerrebe
  • Pinot Gris
  • Bacchus
  • Pinot Noir

Similkameen Valley

The Similkameen Valley includes 15 wineries that are set amongst the dramatic backdrop of rugged and picturesque mountains. Considered the “organic capital of Canada”, the area is known for small farms and producers dedicated to creating quality produce, delectable foods, and award-winning wines.

Due to the tall surrounding mountains, and the reflectivity of the rock, heat remains in the valley late into the evenings. The valley is arid with persistent winds that can reduce the moisture in the vines and the soil. Even above ground irrigation can evaporate before touching the ground. The wind does minimize mildew, so vineyards generally don’t require frequent spraying.

Grape varietals include:

  • Chardonnay
  • Riesling
  • Merlot
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Cabernet Franc

Okanagan Valley

Boasting 185 wineries and 84% of the province’s vineyard acreage, the Okanagan Valley is BC’s premier grape growing region. The valley stretches over 250 kilometres, across sub-regions, each with distinct soil and climate conditions suited to growing a range of varietals from sun-ripened reds to lively fresh and often crisp whites.

The 185 wineries include everything from quiet family-run boutique vineyards to world-class operations.  The Okanagan Valley wineries are rich in tradition and character, consistently ranking among the world’s best at international competitions.

The Okanagan Valley consists of 8 sub-regions – Kelowna / Lake Country, Peachland / Summerland / Penticton, Naramata Bench, Scaha Bench, Okanagan Valley, Oliver, Golden Mile Bench and Osoyoos.

Golden Mile Bench

The Golden Mile Bench was the first sub-Geographic Indication, created in 2015 within the Okanagan Valley wine region followed by Okanagan Falls, Naramata Bench and Skaha Bench.  Grape production in such areas must produce at commercially viable levels.

Located on the western slope of the valley south of Oliver and across from the Black Sage Bench, the Golden Mile Bench’s southerly aspect provides a warm climate. Its location on the west side of the valley is a cooler region than its eastern neighbour.

A wine made exclusively from grapes grown in the sub-appellation can use the term Golden Mile Bench as a Geographical Indication on a BC VQA Wine label. It’s the location the grapes are grown, rather than the location of the winery that is relevant.

Common varietals include:

  • Chardonnay
  • Gewürztraminer
  • Merlot

Kelowna / Lake Country

B.C.’s first vines were planted in Kelowna in 1859. Kelowna also boasts the province’s oldest continually operating winery, Calona Vineyard (est. 1932). Many of the first families of the BC wine industry call this area home: the Heiss family, who established Gray Monk Estate Winery; the Cipes of Summerhill Pyramid Winery; and the Stewart family of Quails’ Gate Winery.

Grape varietals include:

  • Riesling
  • Pinot Gris
  • Gewürztraminer
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Noir

Peachland / Summerland / Penticton

This region combines an exciting area of new development with wineries and vineyards that are more than 25 years old. The sub-appellation is renowned for delicious Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Rosé.  There is also an outstanding lineup of sparkling wines.

Grape varietals include:

  • Riesling
  • Gewürztraminer
  • Pinot Noir

Naramata Bench

On May 13, 2019, wineries in the Naramata Bench joined Skaha Bench, Okanagan Falls and Golden Mile Bench, near Oliver, as wineries that meet the requirements of the Wines of Marked Quality Regulation.   B.C. wines and wineries meeting these requirements are certified that they achieve certain wine production standards, and are enabled to use protected labels that are prescribed under this regulation.

Naramata Bench is roughly defined as the bench lands between Penticton Creek and Okanagan Mountain Park on the east side of Okanagan Lake. Nowhere else in the Okanagan Valley are there so many wineries in a single area.

The vineyards of Naramata Bench boast ideal conditions for full-flavoured white varietals, as well as earlier ripening, elegant reds.

Common varietals include:

  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Gris
  • Merlot
  • Pinot Noir

Scaha Bench

On May 13, 2019, wineries in the Skaha Bench joined the Naramata Bench, Okanagan Falls and Golden Mile Bench, near Oliver, as wineries that meet the requirements of the Wines of Marked Quality Regulation. Skaha Bench covers a 10-kilometre stretch from the outskirts of Penticton and along the eastern shore of Skaha Lake.

Wineries in Skaha Bench include Blasted Church, Black Dog, Painted Rock, Pentage and Crescent Hill.

Common varietals include:

  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Gris
  • Pinot Blanc
  • Merlot
  • Pinot Noir

Okanagan Falls

On July 27, 2018, the Province named Okanagan Falls a Sub-Geographical Indication within the Okanagan Valley wine region, meaning consumers will now see a confirmation on labels of certified BC wine is from the region.

From the shores of Skaha Lake to the tip of Vaseux Lake, this cluster of award-winning wineries offers unsurpassed winery experiences, and great wines. The wineries in and around Okanagan Falls have been producing some of BC’s most celebrated wines for many years. Warm days and cool nights produce wines with ripe fruit character and acidity. There are a variety of vibrant sparkling wines and crisp Rieslings to complex Pinots and rich Syrahs.

Grape varietals include:

  • Riesling
  • Gewürztraminer
  • Pinot Noir
  • Syrah

Oliver

Oliver has been referred to as the ‘Wine Capital of Canada’.  It is home to nearly half of British Columbia’s vines and more than 40 wineries. To the west, the Golden Mile Bench is ideal for white wines such as Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, and bright fruity reds like Cabernet Franc.

To the east lies the Black Sage Bench which cultivates powerful red wines and full-flavoured whites. The combination of hot days and cool nights produce fruit with a perfect balance of exceptional flavours and vibrant acidity.

Common grape varietals include:

  • Pinot Gris
  • Chardonnay
  • Merlot
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Cabernet Franc

Osoyoos

Osoyoos lies at the southern-most tip of the Okanagan Valley, near the Canada-USA border. Officially Canada’s hottest spot, this is red wine country.

Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin red blend has become a favourite of mine after my brother introduced it to me several years ago. I now pick some up whenever I come across it in Ontario.

Grape varietals include:

  • Chardonnay
  • Merlot
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Syrah

Kootenays

The Kootenays is situated in the southeastern corner of British Columbia.

In select microclimates, grapes have been grown in the Kootenays since 1995. Although a new viticultural area, ground crops and orchards have been cultivated there for many decades.

6 wineries are located in this region.

Common varieties include:

  • Gewürztraminer
  • Pinot Gris
  • Pinot Noir
  • Maréchal Foch

Lillooet

One of the oldest towns in the province, Lillooet is located at the southern tip of the Cariboo Chilcotin region.  The climate is very similar to the traditional grape growing regions in the Okanagan Valley with long, hot, dry summers. However, nights are cooler, making average summer temperatures slightly lower than the Okanagan, but at the same time preserving the fresh crisp acidity in the wines.  Viticulture is a recent development with  only 2 wineries at present.

Common varieties include:

  • Riesling
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Gris
  • Pinot Noir
  • Cabernet Franc

Shuswap

The Shuswap region is located north of the Okanagan Valley.  Wines have been produced here since 1997, predominately of cool climate varieties as it is one of the most northerly grape growing regions in North America. Shuswap Lake is the dominant feature in the region. Each of the 10 vineyards has its own microclimate, giving special character to its wines.

Common grape varieties:

  • Ortega
  • Siegerrebe
  • Gewürztraminer
  • Kerner
  • Maréchal Foch

Thompson Valley

On the edge of cool climate viticulture, the 4 Thompson Valley wineries are pioneering an exciting new region and expanding the boundaries of quality BC winemaking.  It is nestled amongst the North and South Thompson Rivers in and around Kamloops, in the rain shadow of the high coastal mountains, with the semi-arid conditions and diverse microclimates.

Common varieties include:

  • Riesling
  • Chardonnay
  • Marquette
  • Maréchal Foch

Although I have had the pleasure of visiting British Columbia several times I have never had the opportunity to experience any of the wine regions.  In particular, being a huge red fan, I would love to travel to the Osoyoos area and sample the wonderful offerings there.

Sláinte mhaith

Canada’s Wine Regions – Part 3 – Ontario

Ontario is the largest wine grape producing province and recognizes the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) as its provincially regulated appellation of origin system.  The VQA is discussed in detail in my June 22, 2019 post, “Selecting Canadian Wines”. 

The province’s three wine-producing appellations are the Niagara Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore and Prince Edward County. They contain over 160 VQA wineries and 17,000 acres of vineyards.

Niagara Peninsula

The Niagara Peninsula has the largest planted area of the viticultural areas in Ontario with 90 wineries and about 15,000 acres of vines. The Niagara Peninsula has two regional appellations and 10 sub-appellations.

I have made numerous treks to Niagara over the years and have developed an ever changing list of favourite wineries that I like to frequent during my excursions to the region.  I will point those out in the sections below. Given that there are now 90 wineries in the region, I have in no way even come close to visiting all the wineries so my recommendations are based only on my own personal experience and research.

Generally speaking (but there are exceptions) I have found that I favour the whites from the sub-appellations north of St. Catharines, toward Toronto, and the reds from the sub-appellations south of St. Catharines, toward Niagara Falls.

Sub-Appellations

There are 10 unique growing areas within the Niagara Peninsula.  Only wines made from 100% grapes grown in the sub-appellation are permitted to include the sub-appellation name on the label.

Niagara River

This is a small strip of land that runs adjacent to the Niagara River.  The soils in the area are primarily stratified glaciolacustrine fine sand that provides natural drainage and encourages the vines to develop deep roots.

One of my favourite wineries, Two Sisters Winery, is located in this sub-appellation. I enjoy both their Stone Eagle and their Stone Eagle Reserve, which are blends of varying proportions of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot

The common grape varietals grown in Niagara River include:

  • Vidal
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Noir
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Riesling

Niagara Lakeshore

This region follows the Lake Ontario shoreline from the Welland Canal to the Niagara River.  The soil composition and moderate temperatures resulting from the close proximity of Lake Ontario provide a longer growing season which results in mature full bodied wines.

The common grape varietals consist of:

  • Vidal
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Noir
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Riesling

Four Mile Creek

This is the largest of the sub-appellations that makes up central Niagara-on-the-Lake.  During the growing season this area provides warm days and cool nights providing growers the opportunity of growing many different varieties of grapes.

The common types of grapes grown include:

  • Vidal
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Noir
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Riesling

St. David’s Bench

This is the natural glacial bench that was carved out of the Niagara Escarpment.  The escarpment provides early spring warming and frost protection for the vines.

There are 2 wineries on my favourites list that are located on St. David’s Bench, Chateau des Charmes and Ravine Vineyard.  I am a fan of the red wines produced by both wineries.

Grape production in St. David’s Bench includes:

  • Vidal
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Noir
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Riesling

Creek Shores

Creek Shores is bound by Lake Ontario, Twelve Mile Creek, Twenty Mile Bench and Jordan Harbour.  Temperatures are moderated by Lake Ontario.

Grapes grown include:

  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Pinot Noir
  • Chardonnay

Lincoln Shoreline

Lake Ontario has a major impact on this sub-appellation providing longer, tempered growing conditions and even ripening of the grapes.

The types of grapes grown include:

  • Chardonnay
  • Riesling
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Syrah
  • Gamay
  • Semillon

Short Hills Bench

Short Hills Bench is the most easterly of the appellations located between Twelve Mile Creek and Fifteen Mile Creek.  It provides warm days and cool nights which are perfect for enhancing grape flavours.

The varietals grown here include:

  • Riesling
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Noir
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Vidal
  • Gewürztraminer

Twenty Mile Bench

The bench is dissected by Twenty Mile Creek.  There is a high proportion of limestone and shale making the soil quite alkaline.  The sheltered north facing slopes provide year round temperature moderation.

This is a rare situation where I favour white and red wine from the same appellation.  I enjoy the whites of Featherstone Estate Winery and the reds of Rockway Vineyards.

The list of varietals grown on the Twenty Mile Bench includes:

  • Riesling
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Noir
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Vidal
  • Gewürztraminer

Beamsville Bench

This is a narrow bench area that benefits from good air circulation and frost protection.  The air circulation minimizes temperature swings and consistent growing conditions.

Angels Gate Winery produces some great white wines such as Unoaked Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewürztraminer, while Cave Spring Cellars makes a good Chardonnay Musque and Fielding Estate Winery makes great Riesling and Chardonnay.

The varietals grown on the Beamsville Bench include:

  • Riesling
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Noir
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Vidal
  • Gewürztraminer

Vinemount Ridge

This sub-appellation contains shallow south-facing slopes.  The area provides early spring warming with warm days and cool nights.

Grapes grown include:

  • Pinot Noir
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Gris
  • Riesling
  • Gewürztraminer
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Vidal

Regional Appellations                            

There are 2 regional appellations in Niagara; each consisting of several sub-appellations.  However, not all of the sub-appellations are included as part of a regional appellation.  This raises the question as to why these regional appellations are necessary since many of the sub-appellations are not included.  However, I digress.

In order to apply for the Regional Appellation designation, the wine must have 85% of the grapes sourced from within an associated sub-appellation with the balance from within the Niagara Peninsula.                    

Niagara-on-the-Lake

Niagara-on-the-Lake is the area bounded by the Niagara River, Niagara Lakeshore, Four Mile Creek and St. David’s Bench.  A minimum of 85% of the grapes must be sourced within these sub-appellations with the balance coming from elsewhere within the Niagara Peninsula.

The common grape varieties of this regional appellation include:

  • Vidal
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Noir
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Riesling

Niagara Escarpment

The Short Hills Bench, Twenty Mile Bench and Beamsville Bench together form the Niagara Escarpment.  In order to use this designation a wine must consist of 85% of the grapes coming from these sub-appellations with the balance from elsewhere within the Niagara Peninsula.

The grapes grown include:

  • Riesling
  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Noir
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Vidal
  • Gewürztraminer

Prince Edward County

Prince Edward County was created as a new growing region in 2007. Some see the future of wine in “The County” in premium wines produced from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  There are now in excess of 40 wineries in the region.

Grapes grown in the region include:

  • Pinot Noir
  • Gamay Noir
  • Vidal
  • Chardonnay
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Baco Noir
  • Chambourcin
  • Marechal Foch
  • Seyval Blanc
  • Gewürztraminer
  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Syrah
  • Merlot

Climate

Most vineyards are located in areas that receive maximum benefit from lake breezes. Prevailing westerly breezes travel steadily across Lake Ontario and the Bay of Quinte to help moderate temperatures. They are especially beneficial during the warm summer months, keeping average temperatures around 22°C, with pleasant cooling during the hotter days and keeping cool nights at bay.

Topography

The County’s topography is irregular, with hills creating various exposures for the vines, and valleys digging into the broad, flat Trenton limestone base. A gradual rise from northeast to southwest is crossed by a number of long, gentle east-west ridges and occasionally steep, rugged escarpments. On the northern and eastern shorelines, rocky bluffs rise to an elevation of 30 m (98 ft) or more above Lake Ontario, while the western shore has many inlets with sandy shores and large sandbars that define bodies of water such as West Lake and East Lake.

Soil

Top soils range from reddish-brown clay loam to sandy loam and overlay limestone bedrock embedded with shale fragments. The stony surface and numerous rock and shale fragments within the soils allow water to drain into the limestone, which ensures good drainage of winter-melt and substantial root penetration for mature vines. This rocky soil also allows good heat conduction and retention and encourages early warming in the spring.

My favourite wineries in Prince Edward County include Keint-He (pronounced “Quinte”) Winery and Vineyards, Sandbanks  Winery, and Stanners Vineyard.  In all cases I am a fan of their reds but Sandbanks has some fun whites as well.

The one thing to note with Sandbanks is that being one of the largest, if not the largest, producer in the region, they purchase a large portion of their grapes from other growers in the area. This limits their ability to control the source grapes and the flavour impacts from the wide range of soil types existing within the County. Therefore, in order to ensure conistency in taste, I have found that the wines produced with grapes grown in Sandbanks own vineyards are well worth seeking out.

The foolproof way to determine which wines contain their own grapes is to ask a member of their knowlegeable staff. However, based on my own experience, wines identifying a bin number or including “Reserve” in the title, have been produced using Sandbanks own grapes.

Lake Erie North Shore

The Lake Erie North Shore appellation contains one sub-appellation, the South Islands, which includes Canada’s southernmost vineyards on Pelee Island, including Canada’s largest estate winery, Pelee Island Winery.

Climate

Lake Erie North Shore has a long growing season. It benefits from the quick summer warming of the shallow waters of Lake Erie as well as from an abundance of sunshine during the growing season. Early harvests are the norm, with picking usually beginning at the end of August and late-harvest varieties often reaching their peak by late October.

Topography

Bounded on the northwest side by Lake St. Clair, to the west by the fast flowing Detroit River, with Lake Erie to the south, and including the nine islands in Lake Erie, which make up the South Islands sub-appellation, Lake Erie North Shore appellation is almost completely surrounded by water. Numerous short, shallow streams found throughout this appellation flow freely in the spring but often dry down to a trickle in the warm summer. The appellation is made up of long, gentle slopes that face in all directions, with elevations ranging from 172 m (564 ft) to 196 m (643 ft) above sea level. With no major topographic barrier to the prevailing southwesterly winds, this appellation enjoys the full effect of the lake breeze that moderates the entire area during the long growing season.

Soil

The soil composition was greatly affected by the glacial lakes, which deposited large amounts of unsorted stony materials in the area. When the glacial lakes elsewhere retreated, this area remained covered in deep waters for a longer period, allowing waves to smooth out the ridges and deposit considerable amounts of sediment. The light-textured, well-drained soils around the lakeshore contain mostly sandy loam and gravel deposits punctuated by small, irregular stony ridges, which overlie shale limestone bedrock. The South Islands have similar soil makeup as the mainland, and the majority of the vineyards are planted on the southwestern corner and centre of Pelee Island (the largest of the islands), where the soils are the deepest and allow for root systems to properly set.

There are currently 15 wineries in the Lake Erie North Shore region.  Personally I am not very familiar with these wineries.  However I can say that over the years I have enjoyed a number of the reds from Pelee Island Winery, in particular their Meritage and Cabernet Sauvignon.

I have not experienced the pleasure of visiting Lake Erie North Shore but have enjoyed a number of the wines produced there.

Sláinte mhaith

Canada’s Wine Regions – Part 2 – Quebec

The wine appellations of Quebec are located in the Eastern Townships of Montérégie, Ouest-du-Québec, Est-du-Québec, and Centre-du-Québec.

While the first grapes grown in Québec can be traced to the early days of “New France”, the industry really began to blossom in the 1980s.

Today there are about 140 wineries (most are artisanal) in the province located in six primary wine regions: Laurentides, Lanaudière, Montérégie, Estrie, Capitale-Nationale and Centre-du-Québec.

The Québec wine industry is responsible for a total of 1,975 acres of grapevines and 45 different grape varietals grow across the province.

Over half of Quebec’s wineries are found in the two tourist regions that produce the most wine, namely the Eastern Townships and Montérégie. Various wine routes enable you to discover the secrets of Quebec viniculture.

The vine varieties that seem to grow the best in Quebec are those of Northern France, Germany, and North-Eastern United States. Some 40 varieties are grown in Quebec, with the most commonly planted being,

Red Wine

  • Sainte-Croix
  • Maréchal Foch
  • Frontenac
  • Sabrevois
  • De Chaunac

White Wine

  • Vidal
  • Seyval Blanc
  • L’Acadie Blanc
  • Vandal-Cliche
  • Geisenheim

Vines used in red wine make up 60% of the total planted area.

Several Québec wines are available at SAQ (Société des alcools du Québec) outlets. You may also discover them at the wineries and some public markets throughout Québec.

Sláinte mhaith

Canada’s Wine Regions – Part 1 – Nova Scotia

This is the first part of a four part series on the 4 wine regions of Canada, travelling from the east coast to the west coast.  The regions are Nova Scotia, Quebec, Ontario and British Columbia. 

Nova Scotia’s wine regions are situated in the Annapolis Valley, Avon River Valley, Malagash Peninsula, LaHave River Valley, and Bear River Valley.

The region’s soil and mesoclimates provide an excellent environment for the production of character-rich high quality wines. The vast majority of the province’s wineries are located in the Annapolis Valley, which includes the Gaspereau Valley at its eastern end.  However, other regions such as the Avon River Valley, Malagash Peninsula, LaHave River Valley and Bear River Valley are also home to Nova Scotian wineries.

Nova Scotia produces some of the most distinctive premium-quality grapes in North America. Their wineries have garnered international acclaim for their efforts and genuine passion.

The warm summers and long falls create crisp wines with bright acidity and aromatic complexities. Constantly being recognized as distinctly Nova Scotian, the combination of these unique characteristics led to the development of the first appellation in the province, Tidal Bay, officially launched in June 2012.

There are over 70 grape growers, some 20 wineries and more than 800 acres of vines in Nova Scotia.  Their wine offerings include: 

White Wines

Nova Scotia has become well known for producing bright, crisp and aromatic white wines with pronounced acidity and prominent character. White hybrids such as L’Acadie Blanc, Seyval Blanc, Vidal and New York Muscat have had tremendous success in Nova Scotia and growing success has also been seen with traditional European varietals (vinifera), such as Chardonnay, Ortega and Riesling.

Red Wines

Because of the cooler climate and shorter growing season it’s often thought that Nova Scotia is unable to produce quality red wines. However, the focus has been on producing grapes that grow incredibly well in Nova Scotia and produce well rounded, full-bodied and dry red wines with low tannins. These wines are typically earthy and smoky with berry fruit characteristics. Varietals such as Lucie Kuhlmann, Baco Noir, Marechal Foch and Leon Millot grow particularly well in Nova Scotia.

Traditional Method Sparkling Wine        

Over the past decade Nova Scotia has developed a wealth of expertise and specialization in traditional method sparkling wines. 

Nova Scotia has near perfect climatic conditions for making sparkling wines. The warm summers, complimented by the temperate influence of the Atlantic Ocean encourages flavours to develop brilliance and uncommon intensity, while still retaining the acidity required for balance and structure.

Ice Wines

Nova Scotia provides ideal temperatures for growing this unique luxury product. Made from frozen grapes, Ice Wine is usually harvested at night between late November and late December, when the temperatures hit between -8 °C and -10 °C.

A cool, slow fermentation results in a very complex, full bodied dessert wine. The golden nectar is high in sugar, flavour and balanced acidity, and depending on the variety, displays notes of spicy tangerine, apricot and melon. Common Nova Scotia ice wine varieties are Vidal, Ortega and New York Muscat.

Beyond Nova Scotia

Nova Scotian wines are not always available outside of the province.  However, there are a few wineries that produce a sufficient volume for export.  Those include Benjamin Bridge, Gaspereau Vineyards, Domaine de Grand Pré, Luckett Vineyards and Jost Vineyards.

When in Nova Scotia I have tried some of the local wines.  I found Jost’s red wine offerings to be good and look forward to experiencing them again at some point in the future.

Sláinte mhaith

Australia’s Wine Regions

The vineyards of Australia cover 170,000 hectares in different wine regions in New South Wales (NSW), South Australia, Victoria, Western Australia, Tasmania and part of Queensland.

Australia has become the 7th biggest wine producing country having about 1,200 million litres of wine produced each year. With the country’s own consumption representing less than 40% of the production, Australia is the 4th largest wine exporter.

Australia has spent millions of dollars to build a brand around Shiraz (Australia’s word for Syrah). As a result Australia wine production has tripled since 1990. However, despite this success, Australian wines have suffered some serious drawbacks in the media. Wine critics often disregard most Aussie wine as “Critter Wines”, referring to the cute animal designs that adorn many of the wine labels.

Australia’s main grape varietals are Shiraz followed by Chardonnay. The two varieties make up 44% of the total wine production.  However, Australia is working toward diversification.  The balance of production comes from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Riesling, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Grenache, Sangiovese, Mourvèdre and Pinot Gris.

The Wine Regions

Margaret River (Western Australia) produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Shiraz.

Barossa (South Australia) produces Shiraz.

Coonawara (South Australia) produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, and Merlot.

Adelaide Hills (South Australia) produces Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Gris.

McLaren Vale (South Australia) produces Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay.

Clare Valley (South Australia) produces Chardonnay, Sémillon, and Riesling.

Hunter Valley (New South Wales) produces Sémillon, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yarra Valley (Victoria) produces Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Rutherglen (Victoria) produces Shiraz and Durif.

Heathcode (Victoria) produces Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mornington Peninsula (Victoria) produces Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Tasmania produces Riesling and Pinot Noir.

The grape varietals produced in Australia are bolder than the same varietals grown in the northern hemisphere, in places like France, Germany, or Canada.  However, if you prefer the bolder spicier flavours, Australian wines may be right for you.

The impact on the wine industry from the wild fires currently raging in Australia remains to be seen.  More than 3.4 million hectares of land have already been destroyed.  Previously the most land burned during an entire fire season was only 280,000 hectares.

Vines not destroyed by the fires could still be impacted by the smoke.  Bushfire smoke can permeate the skin of the grapes as they ripen, causing wine to have an unpleasant smoky characteristic. It is worse in red wine, when the skins are used to create colour.

Experts say it is still too early to determine what the extent of the fires will have on the 2020 harvest. 

Grape growers are facing a second problem; record high temperatures which have reached the upper 40’s Celsius.   Extreme heat can cause leaves to droop or even drop off, leaving grapes exposed to sunburn. This causes discolouration and affects the flavour profile of the wine.

The effect of heat can be managed provided vineyards still have access to enough water – which they don’t in many areas across South Australia, central and northern Victoria, and NSW.

As we prepare to enter 2020, no one seems to face more challenges than the Australians.  I fear that some of the Australian wines the world enjoys today may soon disappear forever.  A sobering thought to close out 2019.

Sláinte mhaith

Festive Holiday Selections

Traditionally white wine would be the only choice to serve at Christmas.  However, this is no longer the case.  Today there are many more options available to complement your menu, whether it is brunch, afternoon munchies, dinner, or dessert.

Christmas morning could start off seated around the holiday tree with a flute of Champagne or Prosecco.   The sparkly can also be combined with orange juice to create mimosa.  The same could be included as part of Christmas Brunch. 

When serving hors d’oeuvres such as prawns or seafood, a zesty white is always good, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris.  Rosé, Pinot Noir, or Beaujolais are also viable choices.

For a traditional turkey dinner, white options would include an oaked Chardonnay or White Burgundy.  Red options include Pinot Noir, Baco Noir, Chianti, Beaujolais, a mature Bordeaux or Rioja.

With ham, wines with some sweetness, lots of acidity and bold fruit are in order. These would include Riesling, Moscato, Chenin Blanc, Rosé, Lambrusco, Grenache or Zinfandel.

If you are serving goose or duck during the holidays, these fatty meats should be paired with a white such as an oaked Chardonnay, white Bordeaux, Chenin Blanc or an off-dry Riesling.  Red options would include a mature Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Pinot Noir, or Beaujolais.

When serving sweets or desserts, a Late Harvest Riesling or Ice Wine will suit the bill.  The day can end with a glass of your favourite Port, whether it be a sweet ruby or a dry tawny.

Here’s to the best of the season!

Sláinte mhaith