Components

Aging and Wine Vintage

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Before I begin let’s be clear on what ‘vintage wines’ are. Vintage wines are wines that are produced from grapes harvested during a single growing season as opposed to non-vintage wines, which can be produced from grapes grown in two or more growing seasons.

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Vintage wines that are cellared go through ongoing chemical effects that will continue until a bottle is uncorked. These outcomes are the result of continuous interactions between the wine’s alcohol, sugar and acid compounds, which combine in the bottle to create new complex flavours, textures and aromas. However, these results are not random. Skilled winemakers understand the chemistry behind aging wine and will manipulate the cellar environment to encourage various flavours and aromas that result in an appealing good vintage.

During cellaring the varietal’s natural flavours do not significantly change. A wine’s primary flavours will always be preserved regardless of cellaring timelines. These flavours are a result of the grape varietal and the conditions the grapes grew in.

However, aging a vintage varietal will affect the secondary and tertiary flavours and aromas. Both notes result from the winemaker’s techniques as well as the chemical interactions between a wine’s natural compounds. These activities define an aging wine.

White wines, especially dry whites like Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay, tend to become oily, heavy and stickier over time. Red wines, particularly those with naturally high tannin levels such as Nebbiolo, Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon, tend to soften with time. This creates sediment that collects at the bottom of a bottle. As a result, the wine becomes smoother and less sharp, resulting in a gentler drinking experience.

The final characteristic affected by aging wine is colour. To see if a red wine has been properly aged, first look at the outer edge where the poured wine meets the glass. At that meeting point, which is referred to as the rim, the wine will appear lighter in colour. A young red wine, on the other hand, will have a rim that appears murky or opaque.

As red wines oxidize with age, their colours often change to deep shades of ruby-purple to softened mauves and then finally to tawny, deep browns. As white wine ages it tends to move from paler, straw-yellow shades to deeper golden hues. White vintages aged three or more years can eventually darken to the point of turning a golden amber color.

These changes in colour are the result of oxidation. When a wine bottle is properly sealed the only oxygen in a bottle will be the small amount trapped in the bottle’s neck, as well as what little oxygen passes through the cork or seal. Most cellared red and white vintages will be sealed with a traditional cork, which allows minimal oxygen to permeate. However, given that cork is itself a natural non-uniform product, oxygen permeation will vary significantly even between bottles cellared and cased at the same time.

Not all wines are created with the ability to be aged. The wine maker’s notes are often a good indication of a wine’s aging capability. Red wines that generally age well include:

  • Bordeaux and Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, aged 2 to 4 years
  • Chianti Riserva, aged 2 to 4 years
  • Petite Syrah, aged 2 to 5 years
  • New World Nebbiolo, aged 2 to 6 years
  • Australian and Californian Grenache, aged 2 to 10 years
  • Italian or Californian Cabernet Sauvignons, aged 3 to 15 years
  • Italian Barolo, aged 3 to 15 years

White wines with aging capability include:

  • Dry White Bordeaux, aged 2 to 3 years
  • Alsace Pinot Gris, 2 to 5 years
  • White Rioja, aged 2 to 5 years
  • Alsace Gewürztraminer, aged 2 to 10 years
  • Californian Fume Blanc, aged 2 to 10 years
  • New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, aged 3 to 10 years
  • Australian Chardonnay, 3 to 10 years
  • German Riesling, 3 to 15 years

These lists are only a suggested guideline, not an exclusive list.

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Vintage versus Non-vintage Wine

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On the surface, the difference between vintage and non-vintage wines is simple. Vintage wines are made from grapes harvested during a single growing season, while non-vintage wines can blend a few different harvests. Non-vintage wine, sometimes referred to as stylized wine, is where the winemaker often aims to match the flavour of the wine to be the same as previous years. On the other hand, vintage wines are based on the characteristics of the vineyard and climate. Due to climatic conditions, some years produce wines that are considered better than others.

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Finding a bottle’s vintage is relatively straightforward. Simply look for the year printed on the label of the bottle. This tells you when the grapes were grown and the wine produced was made. Wine labels containing the description “single vintage” indicate that the wine was produced exclusively from grapes from a single harvest. Depending on the producing country, that ratio must be comprised of 75% to 95% of same-crop grapes. As long as a producer abides by that percentage, they can label their bottle as vintage.

The vintage is an indication of the quality of the wine. The wine flavours, textures, mouthfeel, aroma and bouquets are fundamentally determined by the weather and climate conditions during its specific growing season. Since vintage tells you what year those grapes were grown, you are provided with an accurate distinction between “good” crop years yielding delicious, balanced wines from “bad” crop years hindered by poor weather.

Non-vintage wines are wines created by blending grapes from multiple crops. As a result, they will not have a year printed on the label or will simply have “N.V.” to denote the fact its contents are not from a single harvest. Non-vintage wine quality will vary, as with vintage wines. Many are raved about for their consistency and cost-consciousness and represent good value for more casual wine drinking.

Which is better? The answer depends on what you are looking for from your drinking experience. There are wonderful single vintages and non-vintages available. Non-vintages will offer more diversity and flexibility, particularly when it comes to blends combining several complementary grape varietals. In contrast, vintages provide the opportunity to discover a specific wine region, a micro-climate and even a winemaker’s bottling skills and expertise in ways non-vintages cannot.

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Biodynamic Wine

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While visiting a winery in the Beaujolais district of France a few weeks ago I was introduced to a new term. I was told that the winery I was visiting was a biodynamic winery. This was a description I had not heard before, so I decided to research the topic in more depth when I returned home from my trip.

You may be familiar with what organic farming entails (if not, see my post Organic Wine from August 8, 2020), however the biodynamic movement is somewhat different. According to the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association, biodynamics is “a spiritual-ethical-ecological approach to agriculture, gardens, food production and nutrition.” Biodynamic wine is made with a set of farming practices that views the vineyard as one solid organism. The ecosystem functions with each portion of the vineyard contributing to the next. Conceptually, everything in the universe is interconnected and gives off a resonance or ‘vibe’. This interconnectivity even includes celestial bodies like the moon, planets and stars. Biodynamic viticulture is the practice of balancing this resonance between vine, human, earth and stars. Biodynamics is a holistic view of agriculture.

As with organic farming, natural materials, soils, and composts are used to sustain the vineyard. Chemical fertilizers and pesticides are not permitted. A range of animals from ducks to horses to sheep live on the soil and fertilize it, creating a rich, fertile environment for the vines to grow in. Biodynamic farming also seeks sustainability, leaving the land in as good or better condition.

Biodynamic farming has been met with skepticism by many scientists as some of the practices are difficult at best to prove they work. In addition to organic practices, biodynamic farming takes other factors into account, such as the lunar calendar and astrology. This method of farming considers all aspects of life in the vineyard — other plants, insects and animals. It’s not just about the grapes.

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Farming practices from pruning to harvesting are controlled by the biodynamic calendar. It breaks all the tasks associated with farming into four types of days: root days, flower days, fruit days and leaf days. Each of these categories has certain tasks associated with it that are reflective of the earth’s four classical elements. Fruit days are meant for harvesting, leaf days for watering, root days for pruning. On flower days, nothing is done in the vineyard.

Biodynamic farming calls for specific and sometimes strange compost and field preparations. One of these is known as cow horn manure. Cow horns are stuffed with manure compost and buried into the ground all through the winter, then excavated the following spring. When excavated, the stuffed material is spread throughout the vineyard.

Biodynamic wines must be certified and adhere to strict rules and regulations. The wineries are overseen by 2 governing bodies, Demeter International and Biodyvin.

Biodynamic wines can be found in the United States, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Eastern Europe, Chile, Argentina, India and Australia. Those who believe in the philosophy feel that the wines are more characteristic to the terroir where they originate. However, wine experts say there is no noticeable difference in the taste of biodynamic wine from organically produced wines. Is the difference worth the additional effort? You be the judge.

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Winemaking Chemistry

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The natural method of winemaking is the result of a series of biochemical transformations caused by the action of several enzymes. Many of these enzymes originate from the grapes themselves. However, the enzymes found in the grapes, yeasts and other microorganisms are often not sufficient so commercial enzymes are often added to supplement winemaking requirements.

Enzymes are used in winemaking to break down certain components in the grape juice, such as pectin and proteins, which help clarify the wine and improve its flavour, as well as improve the quality and efficiency of the fermentation process. Enzymes are also used to remove unwanted substances such as tannins.

To accomplish all this several different types of enzymes are used.

Pectinases are enzymes that break down pectin, which is a complex carbohydrate found in the cell walls of the plants.  The result is simpler sugars that can be fermented by yeast.

Beta-glucanases break down beta-glucans, which are complex sugars found in the cell walls of yeast and can cause problems during fermentation.

Proteases are enzymes that break down proteins into smaller peptides and amino acids, which can also be utilized by yeast during fermentation.

Glucosidases help to release aromatic compounds from the grape juice, which can enhance the flavour and aroma of the wine.  The selection of active yeast, fungal and bacterial glycosidases enhance the wine aroma.

Lipases are enzymes that break down fats and lipids, which can improve the clarity, filtration and stability of the wine.  They also assist with improving the pressing efficiency and juice extraction.

Anthocyanins contribute greatly to red wines because these molecules and their interactions with other compounds are responsible for the colour and the stability of red wine during ageing.

Exogenous enzymes are often used to accelerate the extraction of anthocyanins from the berry skin increasing the colour intensity of the wine.

The diagram below demonstrates where enzymes may be injected into the wine making process.  It is an excellent illustration as to why vintners require a strong biology or bio-chemical background.

Photo credit: creative-enzymes.com

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Old Vines Versus New Vines

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Old vines or new vines; does it make a difference when it comes to making wine? The simple answer is yes, but there are some things to take into consideration. The main sticking point is finding common ground for the definition of ‘old’. The definition is not industry controlled so depending on where you ask, the meaning changes.

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In France, New Zealand and Canada, ‘old’ can mean 30 years. In Australia, California and Spain, the vines are not considered ‘old’ until they are 50 or 60 years of age. A few Californian producers who have vines as old as 80 to 100 years have adopted the designation ‘ancient vines’. If 80 years is considered ancient then by comparison there are several Australian vineyards with vines of such an age they would be considered prehistoric, dating back more than 150 years, the upper limit of longevity. Without a true international standard for identifying the relative maturity of vines from one country to the next, the consumer must beware and take into consideration where the wine was produced.

The lifespan of a vine is determined by several factors. The vines of France and other European nations were destroyed during the 1800s and early 1900s by a sap-sucking root pest called phylloxera that destroyed the plants and necessitated replanting on resistant North American rootstocks. Also, in the relatively rainy parts of Europe, such as much of France, the vines die decades before they tend to in the hot dry regions of South Australia, California, Chile and much of Spain. Harsh winters in countries such as Canada led to vines having only a 30 to 35 year lifespan.

Young grape vines, though productive, deliver variable quality wine from year to year. When the sun shines, they grow a great amount of foliage which can produce bitter grapes. When it rains, these vines bloat with water. The vines require massive pruning to reduce the amount of foliage and encourage ripening. By contrast, old vines are constant, their reduced sap flow naturally yields smaller berries with a higher ratio of solids to liquid.

The deep roots of old vines are a big asset. They tap moisture in drought conditions and guard against bloating during rainy times. Old vines also tend to ripen earlier, a great benefit to growers in cooler climates where cool autumn temperatures reduce the growing season.

Old vine wines provide richness and more complex flavours that build rather than trail off after the up-front fruit fades away.  Young vines produce nice, aromatic wines but lack the complexity of flavour of wine produced from older vines. Wines produced from old vines will often cellar longer than wines produced from young vines.

Wine produced by old vines is generally more expensive than similar young vine wines. Because of the rarity, lower yields and perceived enhancement of wine quality, old vines have become increasingly sought after and valued by both the wine industry and consumers. As a result, old vine grapes typically demand a higher price per tonne. This combined with consumer demand, has resulted in old vine wines being more expensive to purchase in the stores.

It has been said that the appreciation of an old vine wine can be a way to connect with the past and to celebrate an enduring art form, similar to listening to the music of a great composer, reading literature or observing at the art of past masters. Wine made from old vines can reveal the distinctive character of a specific historic place and the artistry of the vintner, both past and present.

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Minerality in Wine

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What does “minerality” in wine mean?  While ‘minerality’ is a useful term, there is no definite view on what it actually means.  Many wine labels provide no information about how the soil might affect the wine. Others specify in vague terms about how the soil contributes certain aromas or contains concentrated minerals.

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There is often an assumption that a small amount of material from the soil is drawn up through a grapevine’s roots and deposited in the fruit where it remains until the grape juice is fermented into wine. The popular notion is that the minerals can be tasted when we drink the wine.  However, scientific research has established that this is not the case.  It is not possible for us to taste minerals from the soil when we drink wine.

If this is true then why are people tasting minerality in wine?  In essence, the word mineral refers to three things.  The first is geologic minerals that make up the rocks in the ground.  Minerality can also refer to nutrient minerals like potassium, that vines absorb through their roots and use in vital processes. Finally, minerality can be a flavour descriptor where people think of the minerality in a physical sense rather than metaphorically as you would when describing a wine as having hints of lemon or fresh berries.

So, if minerality is not actually real is it still a useful concept?  The simple answer is yes.  Being able to associate imagery of things such as slate, gunflint, chalk or iodine helps us to associate and recognize flavour impressions even though we know we are not tasting the actual minerals.

Wines that are described as mineral are also generally described as ‘lean’, ‘pure’ and ‘acid’. They have a taste of licking wet stones and often a chalky texture. Some argue that it only applies to white wines, but it also occurs in reds.

There is an assumption that mineral wines are superior to mass produced New World fruity wines. They have a romantic image, one that implies they are handmade by artisans and express the mystery of the soil. Typical examples are found in the Old World such as Chablis and Sauvignon Blancs in France, Rieslings from the Mosel and Rheingau in Germany and Wachau and Kremstal in Austria.  This is not just a European characteristic but it does seem more prominent in places where the wines show less fruit and more acidity.

Many producers see it as an expression of the terroir, while some oenology experts (those who study wines) put it down to compounds produced in winemaking. Whatever the origin, there is no agreed definition of minerality, but for many it’s a very useful word.

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The Effects of Histamines in Wine

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If you get headaches when drinking wine or your face becomes flushed, chances are you have experienced an allergic reaction to the wine.  Antihistamine medications like Zyrtec, Allegra, Claritin or Benadryl may provide quick relief for your symptoms. This is because histamine has caused an immediate inflammatory response in the body.

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Histamine is part of the immune system that serves to provide a warning to your body of any potential attackers. It causes blood vessels to swell so the white blood cells can quickly find and attack an infection or problem.  The increase in the level of histamine is what causes a headache and leaves a person feeling flushed, itchy and miserable.

Many wines contain components that may react negatively to people with histamine sensitivity.  To begin, the wineries tend to use grapes that are ripe or even overripe; a state which leaves the fruit in the perfect state for excess histamine production.  Sulphur dioxide, which is a common preservative used in winemaking, can cause dermatitis, hives’ and/or flushing.   Another preservative, ammonium sulphates, may cause nausea or vomiting. It also causes histamine release in the body.  Commercial yeasts are also a known histamine trigger.

Lastly, ethanol, which is the alcohol we consume when we drink wine, is a by-product of the bacteria which feed on the sugars in the grapes from which the wine was made.  It is the reason why all alcohol contains histamines. Generally, the higher the alcohol content, the lower the sugar content and vice versa.

The level of histamine in wine varies depending on the processes used when making the wine; things such as the type of barrel used. You won’t find an alcohol completely without histamines and sulfites but there are techniques that will lower the histamine formed in wine.

While both red and white wines contain some trace nutrients, red wine has much higher levels of antioxidants, but all wines contain substances such as sulfites, which can cause mild to severe allergy symptoms to appear in some individuals.  White wine will contain between 3 to 120 micrograms of histamine per glass, whereas red wine will have 60 to 3,800 micrograms of histamine per glass.

Some people claim that natural wines contain low levels of histamine, however this is not always true.  It is not easy to determine which wines are safe as most wine labels do not legally have to show this kind of information and there isn’t a legitimized certificate for low histamine wines.

What works for many people with a sensitivity to histamine is a low histamine wine without sulfates.  White wines such as Sauvignon Blanc or sparkling wines like Cava or Prosecco are often a good choice for people with histamine sensitivity.

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The Use of Oak – Toasted Oak

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As I discussed previously, oak will enhance the flavour of wine.  Much of that flavour imparted by the oak occurs naturally from the raw wood but ‘toasting’ the inside of an oak barrel will further enhance these flavours.

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After a barrel is made its inside can be exposed to fire in order to toast it. This is done either over an open flame or by using a hand-held torch. The fire caramelizes the wood’s natural sugars and brings out complex compounds. From this, the wine will take on flavours that are toasty, charred, spicy and sweet depending on the amount of time the wood is toasted.

A lightly toasted barrel will be exposed to flame for about 25 minutes while a heavily toasted barrel may get up to one hour of flame exposure.  Generally, the heavier the toast, the stronger and more varied are the revealed flavours.

Light toasting will impart flavours of subtle vanilla, coconut, caramel, clove and cinnamon.  Medium toasting provides stronger vanilla, honey, caramel, toast, coffee and cocoa flavours.  Finally, heavy toasting provides vanilla, espresso, smoke, crème brûlée, butterscotch, toffee, coffee and molasses flavours.

Oak will interact with wine differently depending on the grape variety. Oak may provide hints of chocolate to a Merlot or vanilla or coconut to a Zinfandel. White wines aged in oak typically develop flavours of vanilla, baked apple, caramel, honey, toasted marshmallow, or buttered toast.

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The Use of Oak – New Oak versus Old Oak

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Oak has a major impact on the flavour of the wines we drink; whether it is absent or present; and if it is present, whether it be new oak, old oak or neutral oak.  When wine remains in contact with wood during the fermentation and aging process, changes take place due to extractable organic compounds.  These biochemistry effects translate into the wine’s aroma and flavour.

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All oak wine barrels are toasted when they are made.  Toasting is when the inside of the barrel is exposed to a flame for a specific time and temperature depending on the style of barrel.  I will talk more about the toasting process in an upcoming post.

The impact of the toasting process declines as barrels age with use.  New oak creates aromatic and flavour complexity in the wine whereas old oak becomes more neutral year after year.  Some winemakers use a mix of new and old oak throughout the cellar in order to achieve their desired wine characteristics.

New oak influences red wines differently than white wines. In reds it will adjust the tannic structure while in whites it will open the aromatics of the wine.

The use of a high percentage of new oak barrels can create flavours of toast, vanilla, baking spices, coffee, caramel, maple or smoke.  Neutral barrels no longer generate these flavours or aromas.  New oak is also used to accelerate the softening of high tannin wines like Cabernet Sauvignon.  They can produce a more rounded wine at a younger age.

While neutral oak barrels no longer provide flavour, they still play an important role as they introduce oxygen to the wine.  This oxygen seepage has a big impact on the natural chemical conversions that wine undergoes during maturation.  Neutral barrels help maintain the fruit qualities of more delicate wines and soften wines that have a high amount of tannin.

The size of the barrel affects the oak’s impact on the wine.  The larger the barrel, the less oak lactones and oxygen that are transferred into a wine.  Thus, there is less impact on the flavour and aroma.  Barrels are normally 225 litres but can be as large as 1,000 to 20,000 litres.

The typical winemaking lifespan of a properly maintained barrel is around five years.  However, this may vary depending on the appellation, the type of wine and whether the winemaker is using the barrel for profile influence, oxygenation or storage.

Maintaining enough new oak on hand can be a challenge as there are only a limited number of new barrels available for purchase each year.  As well, the cost can be prohibitive as the price of one barrel can range from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars.

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Use of Oak – Types of Oak

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This is the first of a three-part series on the use of oak in the wine-making process.

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It’s a well-known fact that oak has become the most accepted way to affect the taste of a wine.  When added to wine, oak combines with the flavours of the grapes to create a wide variety of incredible tasting wines.

Most the world’s finest wines are aged in oak barrels, with French and American oaks being most commonly used.  However, Russian and Eastern European oak are also used, especially in Europe.  All wine barrels are made from white oak but the characteristics of the barrels vary greatly depending on the source of the oak.

French Oak

French oak is historically found in the forests of eastern and central France.  It has more tannin than the other oaks so lighter grape varieties, such as Pinot Noir, are well suited to tannin-rich French oak.  French oak has a tighter-grained wood structure which exposes subtler tastes like aromatic spices, cocoa and coffee. French oak grain is less coarse, contributing to wines with subtle, spicy and smooth, satiny or silky qualities.

American Oak

American oak is twice as dense as French oak, bringing greater spice and wood sugar compounds that slowly extract and fill out a wine’s body.  American Oak has a loose grain and is heavy in lactones, which creates flavours like coconut and banana to finished wines.  It can also provide an impression of a bit of creaminess and a hint of vanilla in wine.  American oak contains a lot of hemicellulose1, which when charred will break down into wood sugars, allowing for some caramelization. 

American oak is widely used in Spain to make Tempranillo. American oak barrels can weigh twice as much as French oak barrels but cost about half the price to purchase.

Russian and Eastern European Oak

Eastern Europe has a vast supply of oak trees. Hungarian oak is richer in eugenols, which impart spice, and tends to create a slightly richer mouthfeel with substantial tannin.   Caucasian oak, on the other hand, releases less tannin and aromatics, which is better for lighter wines desiring a straight-up expression of the grape itself.

Russian oak is used widely throughout Europe. Slavonian oak is used in a variety of Italian wines.  It is known for providing less tannin and more sweetness to the wine.

1 According to ScienceDirect.com, “Hemicelluloses are typically defined as components that can be precipitated by ethanol after extraction from the cell wall by dilute alkali. In such procedures they are extracted after depletion of the pectin content of the walls by aqueous solvents and calcium chelators”.

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