Grenache (also called Garnacha) are rich, flavourful red wines that can also be deep, ruby-coloured rosés. Although originating in Spain, France’s Southern Rhone Valley has become renown for Grenache production. As well, new world regions are now cultivating Grenache vines, with the United States and Australia being the main growers.
Grenache is a dry, medium-full bodied wine with a medium level of tannins and acidity. It is high in alcohol with a level of 15% alcohol by volume. Grenache is recognized for its fruity notes of strawberry, raspberry, plum and cherry, with hints of leather and dried herbs. Flavour can vary depending on the region it comes from, but notes of orange and red grapefruit are sometimes present.
Grenache will pair well with roasted meats, Mexican food, mild curry or vegetables spiced with Asian spices and cumin.
When I come across Malbec wines in my local liquor store, I think of them as full-bodied red wines with lots of tannins and high in alcohol. The level of tannins makes it a good wine for aging. Its dark plump fruit flavours and smoky finish make Malbec a great alternative to higher priced Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
I always think of Malbec as being an Argentinian wine, but it originated on the Right Bank of Bordeaux, France, where it still flourishes today. The uniqueness of each region influences the flavour profile produced. Argentinian Malbec wine has flavours of blackberry, plum and black cherry. There are often hints of milk chocolate, cocoa powder, violet flowers, leather and, depending on the amount of oak aging, a sweet tobacco finish.
Malbec produced in France tends to taste leatherier, with flavours of tart currant and black plum with some bitterness. These wines tend to have higher acidity, and flavours described as black pepper and spice. There is a moderate amount of tannin and acidity with less alcohol than Argentinian Malbecs, which tends to allow French Malbec wines to age longer.
Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec doesn’t have a long finish, therefore making it a good pairing with. lean red meat. It also goes well with lamb, pork shoulder and dark meat poultry, such as duck, chicken legs or thighs.
French Malbec, Argentinian Malbec, or both, the choice is yours.
Following my visit to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape (pronounced Sha-too-nuff-doo-pap) district of France in 2024, I have paid more attention to these wines and have gained a better appreciation for them. It is an appellation known for its bold Grenache-based red blends. However, the region produces both red and white wines using as many as 13 different grape varietals.
The name Châteauneuf-du-Pape translates to “the Pope’s new castle,” referring to the Popes from Rome that lived in Avignon during the 14th century.
Of the eight red varietals planted, Grenache makes up about 80%, followed by Syrah, Mourvèdre and often lesser quantities of one or more of Cinsault, Muscardin, Counoise, Vaccarèse and Terret Noir. Thus, it is referred to as a GSM blend (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre). Most Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds are produced with around 80% Grenache, although some wineries use 100% Grenache, bringing out a more robust, stronger flavour.
These grapes combine to create a medium-bodied, rich, spice-infused red wine. The reds are typically aged from 10 to 20 years, depending on the producer and the vintage. The flavours may include rich raspberry, strawberry and plum with notes of leather, game, and herbs such as sage, rosemary and lavender. The Grenache based reds wine tastes superb with heavier meats like lamb, beef, venison and duck.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc is not as common and not as easy to find because only about 7% of the region’s vineyards are white grapes. These wines are typically a blend of the region’s Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Roussanne grapes. Although not common, Picpoul and Picardin are also permitted. The white wines are generally aged for four to five years though some can be aged longer.
The better-quality whites contain plenty of tropical fruit and floral notes and have crisp underlying acidity. They are subtly powerful and strong in alcohol, averaging 14% or more. They go well served alongside fish, veal and poultry.
It is suggested that Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines be chilled to a temperature of 16 to 18 degrees Celsius and decanted about an hour before serving.
Don’t expect to find a 750 ml bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape for under $50 CDN but the character and flavour of these wines makes them well worth the price.
Inspired by my excursion earlier this year to France, I have compiled a list of popular French foods along with complimentary French wines.
Photo credit: joinusinFrance.com
Asparagus and Hollandaise with Condrieu
Condrieu is the highest form of Viognier, a white grape known for its thick texture and exuberant aromatics. Asparagus makes a good combination.
Brie de Meaux with Champagne
The richness of the creamy cheese is balanced by the acidity and lightness of the bubbly Champagne. It creates a very decadent experience.
Coq au Vin with Beaujolais
Beaujolais is the often-underestimated red from southern Burgundy. Made from pure Gamay, the wines are easy to appreciate. The freshness in Beaujolais allows it to cut through the richness of stew. However, the berry notes of the wine are better suited with chicken rather than beef or pork.
Boeuf Bourguignon with Red Burgundy
Boeuf bourguignon, being robust and savory, is well complimented by a red Burgundy, which is a complex and subtle expression of Pinot Noir.
Chèvre with Sauvignon Blanc
As simple as it sounds, fresh goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc make a great combination. The pungent flavours in chèvre are highlighted by the minerals and acidity of Sauvignon Blanc.
Comté with Vin Jaune
Vin Jaune is the oxidized, sherry-like wine made in France’s Jura region. It has intense, delicious notes of walnuts, dried fruit, curry and pine. It can be a bit sharp on its own, but with cheese, such as Comté, it is very appealing.
Duck with Red Burgundy
A red Burgundy will be a good compliment for roasted duck breast. It combines delicate berry fruits with cool earthiness. As the wine ages it is enhanced by notes of mushrooms and leather.
Foie Gras with Sauternes
Steeped in French tradition, foie gras should be paired with a Sauternes from the Bordeaux region.
Lamb with Northern Rhône Syrah
Northern Rhône Syrah is both subtle and elegant, combining characteristics of dark berry with lightweight aromatics. There are often notes of smoked meats, bacon, licorice, and cloves, which pairs well with lamb.
Mussels with Muscadet
Muscadet is a refreshing, uncomplicated white wine that is produced along the Loire River near the Atlantic Coast. With the ocean nearby, it’s a perfect match for shellfish, particularly oysters or mussels.
Olive Tapenade with Rosé
Olive tapenade served on seasoned crackers or crusty slices of baguette combined with a crisp Rosé is a great combination.
Oysters with Chablis
Chablis is a sub-region of Burgundy, known for its Chardonnay wines made with little or no oak. Classic Chablis is full of minerality and zest making it a great pairing with most oyster dishes.
Roquefort with Sauternes
Sauternes is a unique wine, being created from mold-covered shriveled up grapes just south of Bordeaux. It has notes of apricot, pineapple, ginger, caramel and honey. It pairs well with blue cheese.
Salade Lyonnaise with Beaujolais
A traditional salad lyonnaise (greens, bacon, croutons and mustard dressing topped with a poached egg) is the perfect match for the low levels of tannins and high acidity found in Beaujolais, which is produced from Gamay grapes.
Sole or Flounder with Sancerre
Sancerre is pure Sauvignon Blanc. It is aged in a stainless steal tank without any oak. The combination of juicy grapefruit and mineral freshness matches beautifully with any fine white fish prepared in butter.
Steak with Bordeaux
Steak pairs well with many reds from France, but one sure bet is Bordeaux, especially the Right Bank Merlot dominant wines.
Stew with Southern Rhône Red
Southern Rhone reds usually consist of a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The resulting wines are bold and rich, with texture and dark, jammy notes. Most beef stews work well with these wines.
Veal with White Burgundy
White Burgundy is the highest expression of Chardonnay. As long as the wine retains some acidity, it should match beautifully with the subtle, delicate flavours of veal.
The final Bordeaux winery visit on our recent trip to France was to Château La Tour Blanche in the Sauternes region. The Sauternes Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée covers approximately 2,000 hectares and includes five communes: Barsac, Bommes, Fargues, Preignac and Sauternes.
La Tour Blanche estate, like most of the Crus Classés of the appellation, is located on a ridge elevating It 60 meters above sea level. This provides good exposure of the vines and better drainage of the land. The terroir provides a gravelly surface and a clay-limestone subsoil, which give a particular character to the wines produced.
The three traditional white grape varieties of the Sauternes Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée vineyard are Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Château La Tour Blanche grows 83% Sémillon, 12% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle.
Photo credit: tour-blanche.com
The Sémillon grapes provide the structure, give the wine its beautiful Golden colour and its aromas of dried fruits, candied fruits and honey. Sauvignon Blanc produces a very fine, full-bodied, and aromatic wine and creates the beautiful freshness in the blend. The Muscadelle adds to the unique style of the wines, bringing additional aromatic complexity thanks to its delicate scent of muscat grain and its spicy notes.
Like many of the wineries in Bordeaux, Château La Tour Blanche has already taken numerous steps to improve its environmental performance. They have imposed demanding specifications on sustainable development. In recent years, they have introduced waste reprocessing and confined spraying. Château La Tour Blanche is HVE 3 certified (High Environmental Values) and is a member of the first association for the Environmental Management System (EMS) of Bordeaux Wine certified ISO 14001.
The grapes arriving at the winery are botrytized (see my post, Dessert Wines from April 18, 2020), full of sugar. Once selected on the sorting table and pressed, the grapes produce musts in which the action of Noble Rot will have produced a reduction in acidity as well as an increase in sugar content. The average yield does not exceed 10 to 15 hectoliters per hectare at the La Tour Blanche estate, due to strict selection.
Only musts reaching an average of between 20 and 22 degrees of potential alcohol are selected for the 1er Cru Classé. The slightly less concentrated juices will be used to produce the second or third wines.
Unfortunately, I was unable to attend and sample any of the wines that day because of an unexpected visit to see a Bordeaux ophthalmologist as a result of a torn retina, which is now repaired. I may have to make a return trip to the region to experience what I missed.
On my recent excursion to Bordeaux, France, I travelled to the Left Bank’s Margaux appellation where I visited Château Dauzac, which is a Margaux Grand Cru Classé according to the 1855 classification. Their vineyards span 49 hectares.
All the wines utilize gravity-flow vatting. Fermentation takes place in wooden vats with transparent double staves. The wine was aged in 100% French oak barrels (including 65% new barrels) for 15 months with racking based on tasting results.
Dedicated to the expression of terroir and dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, Château Dauzac reveals a nicely complex bouquet that slowly unfolds during aeration. On the palate, it strikes a subtle balance between the richness of its tannins and the aromatic diversity of its supple fruits, emblematic of great wines for ageing.
Cabernet Sauvignon dominates with its complexity, elegance and minerality, while Merlot adds roundness and silkiness. Always deep in colour, Château Dauzac expresses a subtle balance where fruits, flowers and spices are combined, with a complex body and tannins ensuring an emotional tasting experience.
Like many of the wineries in the region, Château Dauzac is committed to reducing its carbon footprint. They have formed a partnership with Bioboon Agrology. Together they are working toward the ecological transition of agricultural activities that promote plant health while preserving the surrounding biodiversity.
They have also planted bamboo on the estate. The bamboo acts as an essential carbon sequestration mechanism, offsetting the residual emissions of their carbon-neutral wine. This initiative reduces the environmental impact of the winery’s activities.
Château Dauzac is also investing in research and development to fight against mildew. The aim is to use natural products free of heavy metals to preserve the health of their vines and the balance of the surrounding ecosystem.
The terroir is a clay-based soil that contains deep gravel outcrops. The vines have an average age of 35 to 40 years. The grape varietals consist of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 2% Petit-Verdot. The grapes are harvested by hand in small crates and sorted on tables before and after de-stemming.
The first wine that I sampled at Château Dauzac was the 2021 “Aurore de Dauzac Margaux”, which is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. It is bright red with ruby hues and a nose of red fruit with a slightly floral expression. The flavour displays a pleasant concentration with notes of black fruit.
The second wine I tasted was the 2019 Margaux Grande Cru Classé. Château Dauzac 2019 is a wine that expresses exceptional fruit vibrancy. It is very well-balanced and composed of dense tannins that exhibit finesse and elegance. It consists of a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot.
I was surprised to see how much my wife enjoyed this wine as she usually prefers the Right Bank Merlot concentrated wines over the Left Bank Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wines. In fact, she enjoyed it so much that we decided to have some shipped home. When making the shipping arrangements we were told that the 2022 vintage would be more superior to the 2019, given the climate conditions that existed that year. The only caveat was that the 2022 would not reach its full potential for another 10 years.
We then decided that we would purchase some of the 2022 vintage as well to ship home. The 2022 wine consists of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37 % Merlot. The overall yield was small due to the lack of water but the remarkable quality will make the 2022 vintage one of the greatest ever experienced in Bordeaux.
I was pleased to learn that Château Dauzac wines are occasionally available in Ontario liquor stores. I will be eagerly awaiting the next vintage to appear on store shelves.
On the Right Bank, near the village of Bourg, I had the opportunity to visit Chateau Monconseil-Gazin, a third-generation family preserved estate winery owned by the Baudet family. The wines produced are part of the Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux appellation.
The vineyard’s hilly terrain benefits from a microclimate caused by the proximity of the estuary and the Atlantic Ocean. The clay-limestone soils rest on a soft rock substrate that is very favorable to the roots of the vines and perfect for drainage.
The 35 hectares of gentle slopes facing south and southwest predominantly grow the Merlot grape variety, complemented by Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.
The first wine that I tasted was the 2023 “Blaye Côtes De Bordeaux”, a white Sauvignon. The vines are cultivated according to the sustainable agriculture charter for the development and protection of the terroir. No chemical fertilizers are used.
The wine consists of 100% Sauvignon Blanc that is aged on fine lees, which are the smaller, more gradual sediment that settles at the bottom of a fermentation vessel after winemaking. The fine lees age with the wine, adding complexity, texture, and flavour. The wine is bottled at the Château.
The terroir is a clay-limestone on stony subsoil, providing excellent drainage and deep roots. The slopes face south-southwest, ensuring optimal maturity of the grapes.
This wine’s aroma contains notes of citrus and flowers and has a smooth crisp palate. The finish is long, fresh and fruity.
The second wine I had was the “Blaye Côtes De Bordeaux – Blanc Prestige”, made of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon. This wine releases an elegant nose of lychee and citrus fruit complemented by a light oakiness. The palate is dense and smooth, with a freshness that lingers through to the finish.
The third wine I sampled was the 2020 “Blaye Côtes De Bordeaux” red. Once again, the vines are cultivated according to the sustainable agriculture charter for the development and protection of the terroir, using no chemical fertilizers.
The wine is produced from 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Malbec grapes. It is aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, then blended and lightly filtered before being bottled at the Château.
The terroir is clay-limestone hillsides on a stony subsoil, excellent for drainage and rooting. The vineyard slopes are south/southwest facing, ensuring optimal maturity of the grapes.
The flavour has hints of woody and toasty accents accompanied by notes of violet, blackberry, crème de cassis, tobacco leaf and sage. There is an abundance of young fruit with tannins and acidity.
This wine has had more than twenty years of recognition by the most prestigious competitions in France and internationally: Mâcon, Paris, Aquitaine, Challenge International du Vin, Brussels and London.
The last wine I tasted was the 2019 “Grande Réserve”, which is made from 50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec and 10% Cabernet Franc. The wine was matured in French oak barrels (50% new) for 18 months, blended and lightly filtered and then bottled at the Château.
This wine offers ripe fruit and notes of mocha, toast and vanilla. The tannins are tight and the flavours are full.
This wine has been recognized by the most prestigious competitions and specialist magazines such as the HACHETTE Guide, the Revue des Vins de France, Decanter and In Vino Veritas.
My wife and I enjoyed this one enough that we purchased a bottle to drink after our day’s explorations. Unfortunately, Chateau Monconseil Gazin wines are not currently available in Ontario liquor stores.
The first area I explored on my recent trip to France’s Bordeaux region was Médoc, which is situated on the Right Bank. The name Médoc is synonymous with exceptional wines. Considered as one of the world’s leading red wine producers, Médoc has been a winemaking region since the 18th century, with more than 16,000 hectares of vineyards across eight sub-appellations.
In Médoc, which is part of the Saint-Émilion appellation that has over 800 Chateaux, I visited the family-owned winery, Château Fleur Cardinale. The terroir consists of a mix of clay and limestone. Typical of Right Bank wineries, their wines consist of a blend of around 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The blended portions vary slightly from year to year depending on the yield of each grape varietal.
La Maison Cardinale was established in 2001, when Dominique and Florence Decoster acquired Château Fleur Cardinale. In 2017, their son Ludovic and his wife Caroline took the reins of the family estate. In 2024, they created La Maison Cardinale, an entity that brings together Château Fleur Cardinale, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, and Château Croix Cardinale, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru.
They have two estates, Château Fleur Cardinale and Château Croix Cardinale. Château Fleur Cardinale covers 27.6 hectares on the northern slope, producing a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé. The northern slope is also ideal to produce Fleur Cardinale white, in the Bordeaux appellation. Château Croix Cardinale covers 4 hectares on the southern slope, producing a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru.
While there I had the opportunity to sample 2023 “Cardinal Flower Intuition Saint-Emilion Grand Cru” and the 2019 “Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru”. The Intuition had an intense aromatic profile of ripe black fruits. There were subtle tannins and a supple, fresh texture. The Grand Cru Classé had a sensation of fresh and intense fruit, both on the nose and in the mouth. In my opinion it was much smoother and better balanced than the Cardinal Flower Intuition.
The grapes for both wines are picked by hand. There are about 15,000 bottles of Cardinal Flower Intuition produced each year and 105,000 bottles of the Grand Cru Classé. About 80% of the wine is sold to wine agents for export with the balance being sold from the winery. Unfortunately, Château Fleur Cardinale wines do not appear to be available in Ontario liquor stores.
I recently returned from a trip to the Bordeaux region of France where I took advantage of the opportunity to experience some of the finest wines in the world.
The effects of climate change are impacting the grape harvests there the same as they are in many other parts of the world. The region is facing increasing temperatures and drought conditions each year. Not helping matters is the governing regulation that prohibits vineyards to irrigate vines that are more than 3 years old.
To help try and offset the effects of climate change, I saw horses being used in place of tractors to till the weeds that were growing between the rows of grape vines, lessening the need for herbicides and reducing the generation of carbon monoxide.
The Bordeaux region is separated into 2 distinct areas: the Left Bank and the Right Bank. To help identify which is which, the city of Bordeaux is situated on the Left Bank.
Bordeaux’s wine areas are often categorized into five main zones, primarily based on their location in relation to the Gironde, Garonne, and Dordogne rivers. These zones are: The Médoc, Graves and Sauternais, The Libournais, Blaye and Bourg and Entre-Deux-Mers. During our trip I visited wineries on both the Left Bank and Right Bank.
The Left Bank, often referred to as the Médoc and Graves, produces red wines, while the Right Bank, including Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, also focuses on red wines. Entre-Deux-Mers produces both red and white wines, and the Graves and Sauternais are known for their sweet white wines.
There are five Bordeaux wine classifications. These classifications serve as an expression of quality and prestige worldwide. The principle of the crus classés (“classified growths”) illustrates the synthesis of a terroir’s typical characteristics and dedicated human intervention over many generations to ensure quality. However, a wine or appellation can still be outstanding even if it is not a part of these classifications. The classifications are listed in order of seniority:
The 1855 classification
The Graves classification
The Saint-Émilion classification
The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc classification
The Crus Artisans classification
For a winery in Bordeaux to be referred to as a Château, the property must include a large house, vineyards and a place to make wine.
The age of the vines impacts the quality of the Bordeaux wine. The older the vine, the more expensive the wine. The roots on old vines extend much deeper and extend further int the soil. This adds minerality to the fruit, which in turn adds complexity to the flavour of the wine.
One thing I found interesting on this trip was how the various winery staff pronounced Cabernet Franc. I was always under the impression that Cabernet Franc was pronounced as the French do, with the ‘c’ in Franc being silent – ka·br·nay frong, but I now found out that it is acceptable to pronounce it in English as ka·br·nay frank.
Over the next few weeks I will describe my adventures through the region, as well as the wineries I had the opportunity to experience.
While dining in a restaurant in Paris earlier this year I came across something that I had never seen before – being able to purchase wine by the portion of the bottle that you consume. The server provides you with your choice of a bottle of French red or white. The bottle comes with a string tied around the neck that then drapes down the length of the bottle. There are knots in the string to indicate 12, 25, 37, 50, 62 and 75 centilitres of wine.
This is referred to as, “à la ficelle”. It is a very practical approach to purchasing wine when you don’t want to consume a whole bottle but desire more than a single glass.
Although the concept of ficelle wine has only started to become popular in restaurants in recent years, the concept dates all the way back to the 15th century. According to legend, it was an Auvergne innkeeper by the name of Gaultier who, in the 1400s, used a piece of string to determine how much wine his customers drank.
During that time wine was served in earthenware or pewter pitchers. The innkeeper used an evenly spaced knotted rope to determine the quantity of wine his patrons had consumed. The distance between each knot represented 25 centilitres of wine.
With the current trend where people are reducing their wine consumption, the concept of string wine is becoming more popular. Less restaurant patrons are purchasing wine by the bottle and instead 20% now favour wine by the glass while 12% now prefer the wine by string concept.
A Layman's Wine Musings 