The Médoc Area of Saint-Émilion

June 7, 2025 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

The first area I explored on my recent trip to France’s Bordeaux region was Médoc, which is situated on the Right Bank. The name Médoc is synonymous with exceptional wines. Considered as one of the world’s leading red wine producers, Médoc has been a winemaking region since the 18th century, with more than 16,000 hectares of vineyards across eight sub-appellations.

In Médoc, which is part of the Saint-Émilion appellation that has over 800 Chateaux, I visited the family-owned winery, Château Fleur Cardinale. The terroir consists of a mix of clay and limestone. Typical of Right Bank wineries, their wines consist of a blend of around 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The blended portions vary slightly from year to year depending on the yield of each grape varietal.

La Maison Cardinale was established in 2001, when Dominique and Florence Decoster acquired Château Fleur Cardinale. In 2017, their son Ludovic and his wife Caroline took the reins of the family estate. In 2024, they created La Maison Cardinale, an entity that brings together Château Fleur Cardinale, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, and Château Croix Cardinale, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru.

They have two estates, Château Fleur Cardinale and Château Croix Cardinale. Château Fleur Cardinale covers 27.6 hectares on the northern slope, producing a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé. The northern slope is also ideal to produce Fleur Cardinale white, in the Bordeaux appellation. Château Croix Cardinale covers 4 hectares on the southern slope, producing a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru.

While there I had the opportunity to sample 2023 “Cardinal Flower Intuition Saint-Emilion Grand Cru” and the 2019 “Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru”. The Intuition had an intense aromatic profile of ripe black fruits. There were subtle tannins and a supple, fresh texture. The Grand Cru Classé had a sensation of fresh and intense fruit, both on the nose and in the mouth. In my opinion it was much smoother and better balanced than the Cardinal Flower Intuition.

The grapes for both wines are picked by hand. There are about 15,000 bottles of Cardinal Flower Intuition produced each year and 105,000 bottles of the Grand Cru Classé. About 80% of the wine is sold to wine agents for export with the balance being sold from the winery. Unfortunately, Château Fleur Cardinale wines do not appear to be available in Ontario liquor stores.

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My Adventure to Bordeaux

May 31, 2025 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

I recently returned from a trip to the Bordeaux region of France where I took advantage of the opportunity to experience some of the finest wines in the world.

The effects of climate change are impacting the grape harvests there the same as they are in many other parts of the world. The region is facing increasing temperatures and drought conditions each year. Not helping matters is the governing regulation that prohibits vineyards to irrigate vines that are more than 3 years old.

To help try and offset the effects of climate change, I saw horses being used in place of tractors to till the weeds that were growing between the rows of grape vines, lessening the need for herbicides and reducing the generation of carbon monoxide.

The Bordeaux region is separated into 2 distinct areas: the Left Bank and the Right Bank. To help identify which is which, the city of Bordeaux is situated on the Left Bank.

Bordeaux’s wine areas are often categorized into five main zones, primarily based on their location in relation to the Gironde, Garonne, and Dordogne rivers. These zones are: The Médoc, Graves and Sauternais, The Libournais, Blaye and Bourg and Entre-Deux-Mers. During our trip I visited wineries on both the Left Bank and Right Bank.

The Left Bank, often referred to as the Médoc and Graves, produces red wines, while the Right Bank, including Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, also focuses on red wines. Entre-Deux-Mers produces both red and white wines, and the Graves and Sauternais are known for their sweet white wines.

There are five Bordeaux wine classifications. These classifications serve as an expression of quality and prestige worldwide. The principle of the crus classés (“classified growths”) illustrates the synthesis of a terroir’s typical characteristics and dedicated human intervention over many generations to ensure quality. However, a wine or appellation can still be outstanding even if it is not a part of these classifications. The classifications are listed in order of seniority:

The 1855 classification
The Graves classification
The Saint-Émilion classification
The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc classification
The Crus Artisans classification

For a winery in Bordeaux to be referred to as a Château, the property must include a large house, vineyards and a place to make wine.

The age of the vines impacts the quality of the Bordeaux wine. The older the vine, the more expensive the wine. The roots on old vines extend much deeper and extend further int the soil. This adds minerality to the fruit, which in turn adds complexity to the flavour of the wine.

One thing I found interesting on this trip was how the various winery staff pronounced Cabernet Franc. I was always under the impression that Cabernet Franc was pronounced as the French do, with the ‘c’ in Franc being silent – ka·br·nay frong, but I now found out that it is acceptable to pronounce it in English as ka·br·nay frank.

Over the next few weeks I will describe my adventures through the region, as well as the wineries I had the opportunity to experience.

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String Wine

August 24, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

While dining in a restaurant in Paris earlier this year I came across something that I had never seen before – being able to purchase wine by the portion of the bottle that you consume. The server provides you with your choice of a bottle of French red or white. The bottle comes with a string tied around the neck that then drapes down the length of the bottle. There are knots in the string to indicate 12, 25, 37, 50, 62 and 75 centilitres of wine.

This is referred to as, “à la ficelle”. It is a very practical approach to purchasing wine when you don’t want to consume a whole bottle but desire more than a single glass.

Although the concept of ficelle wine has only started to become popular in restaurants in recent years, the concept dates all the way back to the 15th century. According to legend, it was an Auvergne innkeeper by the name of Gaultier who, in the 1400s, used a piece of string to determine how much wine his customers drank.

During that time wine was served in earthenware or pewter pitchers. The innkeeper used an evenly spaced knotted rope to determine the quantity of wine his patrons had consumed. The distance between each knot represented 25 centilitres of wine.

With the current trend where people are reducing their wine consumption, the concept of string wine is becoming more popular. Less restaurant patrons are purchasing wine by the bottle and instead 20% now favour wine by the glass while 12% now prefer the wine by string concept.

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A Lost Appetite

August 17, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Many of the world’s wine regions are facing problems resulting from an oversupply of grapes. For example, last year the French government spent 200 million euros to dispose of surplus wine. In addition to that, Bordeaux region vintners received 57 million euros to destroy 9,500 hectares of grape vines.

In Australia, millions of vines are being destroyed and tens of millions more must be removed to control overproduction. Drastically reduced grape prices are threatening the incomes of growers and wine makers.

Falling consumption of wine worldwide has hit Australia particularly hard as demand shrinks fastest for the cheaper reds that are its biggest product. It had relied on the Chinese market for growth until recent years. Last year there was more than two billion litres of surplus wine in Australia.

Oversupply is not a new phenomenon. In the past the industry has always been able to readjust but going forward it may not be as easy. Past declines were triggered by economic factors such as market crashes, the tech boom, new tax laws and other more specific events that impacted the amount of money people spent and how they prioritized their consumption of wine.

Today the reduction in wine consumption is the result of a change in attitude and lifestyle resulting in people consuming less wine. Campaigns such a “Dry January” and “Sober October” are becoming more and more popular, leading to less wine consumption in the other ten months of the year. As a result, wine drinking has been declining year over year since 2017.

In France, wine consumption has declined significantly, from 150 litres per person per year in 1950, to 40 litres per person in 2022. The French people are no longer insular with just their own culture. Instead, they have adopted influences from other parts of the world and as a result, have substituted some of their wine consumption with other beverage options, such as beer, whiskey and cocktails.

Cuisine is changing as well, which has altered drinking habits. Lighter food choices and finger foods are often replacing traditional multi-course meals. Also, people have been reducing the amount of red meat in their diet. This has resulted in consumers wanting lighter, lower-alcohol wines. The Bordeaux region in particular has been greatly impacted by this, having reduced demand for their full-bodied red wines.

The U.S. market is being impacted as well due to a focus on wellness and a change in lifestyle. Non-alcoholic beverages sales there have increased 20.6 percent from 2021 to 2022.

People are drinking less wine but better wine. Over the past seven years, the U.S. wine industry is seeing growth rates sag in the under $12 category but wines in higher-priced tiers continue to see growth.

This change has also impacted wine sales in Australia where for the first time since the mid-1990s there is an oversupply based on a lack of consumer demand. A main driver of the decline is due to the lack of demand for Australin wine in the U.S.

There are other factors as well affecting Australian wine sales. In March 2021, China imposed a 218 percent tariff on Australian wine in response to Australia requesting an independent investigation as to the origins of COVID-19. China’s decision wreaked havoc on Australia’s wine industry.

The world is also still feeling the effects of the pandemic. From supply chain issues to how people purchase and consume wine was severely impacted. The good news is that there are indications that the wine industry is heading toward a return to normalcy, at least in this regard. Wine consumption remains lower than in 2015 but above what it was in 2021. This is largely due to the reopening of bars and restaurants. The long-term effects remain to be seen.

Depending on soil conditions, some French vintners are now investigating switching to other crops such as corn or wheat. Others are changing vineyards into livestock pastures. Australia is focusing on market expansion and providing wineries with market data so they can determine their best course of action. Not waiting for new markets to open, some growers are turning to citrus and nut trees instead.

One thing for certain is there is currently much uncertainty in the wine industry.

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Biodynamic Wine

July 6, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

While visiting a winery in the Beaujolais district of France a few weeks ago I was introduced to a new term. I was told that the winery I was visiting was a biodynamic winery. This was a description I had not heard before, so I decided to research the topic in more depth when I returned home from my trip.

You may be familiar with what organic farming entails (if not, see my post Organic Wine from August 8, 2020), however the biodynamic movement is somewhat different. According to the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association, biodynamics is “a spiritual-ethical-ecological approach to agriculture, gardens, food production and nutrition.” Biodynamic wine is made with a set of farming practices that views the vineyard as one solid organism. The ecosystem functions with each portion of the vineyard contributing to the next. Conceptually, everything in the universe is interconnected and gives off a resonance or ‘vibe’. This interconnectivity even includes celestial bodies like the moon, planets and stars. Biodynamic viticulture is the practice of balancing this resonance between vine, human, earth and stars. Biodynamics is a holistic view of agriculture.

As with organic farming, natural materials, soils, and composts are used to sustain the vineyard. Chemical fertilizers and pesticides are not permitted. A range of animals from ducks to horses to sheep live on the soil and fertilize it, creating a rich, fertile environment for the vines to grow in. Biodynamic farming also seeks sustainability, leaving the land in as good or better condition.

Biodynamic farming has been met with skepticism by many scientists as some of the practices are difficult at best to prove they work. In addition to organic practices, biodynamic farming takes other factors into account, such as the lunar calendar and astrology. This method of farming considers all aspects of life in the vineyard — other plants, insects and animals. It’s not just about the grapes.

Farming practices from pruning to harvesting are controlled by the biodynamic calendar. It breaks all the tasks associated with farming into four types of days: root days, flower days, fruit days and leaf days. Each of these categories has certain tasks associated with it that are reflective of the earth’s four classical elements. Fruit days are meant for harvesting, leaf days for watering, root days for pruning. On flower days, nothing is done in the vineyard.

Biodynamic farming calls for specific and sometimes strange compost and field preparations. One of these is known as cow horn manure. Cow horns are stuffed with manure compost and buried into the ground all through the winter, then excavated the following spring. When excavated, the stuffed material is spread throughout the vineyard.

Biodynamic wines must be certified and adhere to strict rules and regulations. The wineries are overseen by 2 governing bodies, Demeter International and Biodyvin.

Biodynamic wines can be found in the United States, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Eastern Europe, Chile, Argentina, India and Australia. Those who believe in the philosophy feel that the wines are more characteristic to the terroir where they originate. However, wine experts say there is no noticeable difference in the taste of biodynamic wine from organically produced wines. Is the difference worth the additional effort? You be the judge.

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The Châteauneuf-du-Pape District of France

June 7, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

While on a river cruise that was part of my recent trip to France, I overheard someone say that Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a famous French winery. Well, that is not exactly true. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a French Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) located around the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Rhône wine region in southeastern France. It is one of the most renowned appellations of the southern part in the Rhône Valley, and its vineyards are located around Châteauneuf-du-Pape and in the neighboring villages of Bédarrides, Courthézon and Sorgues, between Avignon and Orange. The region covers more than 3,200 hectares or 32 square kilometres and produces over 110,000 hectolitres of wine each year.

The primary grape grown in the district is Grenache, but Cinsault, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Muscadine, Syrah, Terret noir, Vaccarèse, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette blanche, Picardan, Roussanne, and Picpoul are also cultivated.

The terroir consists of white limestone. The stones absorb the heat of the sun and transfers it to the roots of the vines. The stones also help with allowing rain to penetrate the roots. This is critical since temperatures rise to about 45 degrees Celsius in the summer and irrigation is not permitted.

The harvest takes place from late August to early September. There are 323 vineyards in the district, all of which are family operated companies. Given the conditions, production yields are low and this is reflected in the price at your local wine store. However, the higher cost does not deter buyers as some wineries are selling their wines two years in advance.

I visited Maison Bouachon winery, which has been in operation since 1898. The vines on the estate generally range from 80 to 100 years in age. Wine production is completed following the methods and rules established by the AOC.

While there I sampled three of their wines, 2023 Côtes du Rhône white, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021 and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Special Edition. My personal favourite was the Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021, which is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre grapes. I purchased a bottle which was later enjoyed by my wife and me. Unfortunately, like so many of the French wineries, Maison Bouachon wines are not available outside of France. Such a pity.

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The Beaujolais Wine District

June 1, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

My wife and I recently returned from an excursion to France, which included exploration of several wine regions including the Beaujolais district of Burgundy. Beaujolais is a French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) wine, generally made from Gamay grapes. The grapes are thin skinned and are low in tannins.

The soil (terroir) consists of granite, schist, clay and sandstone. The vines are pruned using the goblet method, which is mainly practiced in the Mediterranean regions because having a foot close to the ground shelters the vine from the wind and the falling vegetation protects the grapes from the sun. This method of pruning only allows 3 to 5 branches to be kept on the vine. The branches end with a spur of 3 or 4 buds.

Goblet pruning is a drought-resistant and berry-protected method but prohibits the use of mechanized harvesting methods. Economically, the reduction in yields can be significant. The cost of production can be high due to an increased need for labour and the drop in production.

Climate change has been presenting a variety of challenges during recent years. Netting has had to be installed to protect the grapes from summertime hailstorms that have been regularly occurring since 2007. Very wet spring seasons, like this year, are threatening to delay the start of the growing season, thus reducing the yield potential and increasing the risk of mold on the vines.

The wines produced in the Beaujolais district include Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, cru Beaujolais and Beaujolais Nouveau. The region also produces a small amount of Chardonnay (about 4%) but none of that wine is sold outside of France.

We visited Château de Pravins, a 12^th century winery. The current owners acquired the winery in 1941. The purchaser was Joseph Mathieu, whose descendant, Isabelle Brossard, operates the winery today. It is a biodynamic winery (uses organic processes) that expands across 26 hectares. The grapes are still crushed by feet, but pipes and pumps are also now used. One kilo of grapes is required to produce a single bottle of wine. The AOC limits the Beaujolais wineries from producing any more than 6,000 litres of wine per hectare and allows only cement vats to be used in the production process.

While there we sampled three red wines, l’argile ardente No 2, les moraines, and l’argile ardente. I found all tree wines to be as equally as nice.

Based on the slow soggy start to the 2024 growing season, don’t be surprised if the 2024 vintage of Beaujolais wine is limited and thus more expensive than some previous years.

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Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio

February 17, 2024February 17, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are made from the same grape and are obviously both white wines, but it can be argued that the similarity ends there.

Pinot Gris originates in France and is believed to be a mutation of Pinot Noir. It’s mainly grown in the Alsace region of France. The grape is thought to have reached Italy during the 1300s where the variety was called Pinot Grigio. The Italian version is primarily grown in the Alto Adige region of northwestern Italy.

Gris is the French word for gray and grigio is gray in Italian. The gray describes the grayish-purple skin of the grapes.

Both Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio will appear on wines produced in countries other than France or Italy. There is an abundance of Pinot Gris grapes produced in countries such as Canada, the United States, Australia and New Zealand.

So what determines why some are labelled Pinot Gris while others are referred to as Pinot Grigio? Winemakers have the choice of selecting which name they use. There is no hard and fast rule, however most will base the name on the style of the wine they produce. You can usually tell the style by the colour. Pinot Gris style wines are typically darker and more yellow in colour, whereas Pinot Grigio wines are very light yellow, almost clear.

Pinot Gris wines are rich, full-bodied and accompanied by higher alcohol content. Made with fully ripe grapes that are occasionally barrel fermented, Pinot Gris often has extra sweetness and a creamy feel. The darker grape skins tend to produce a golden colour.

By contrast, Pinot Grigio is harvested early, resulting in a light-bodied, crisper wine with a lower level of alcohol. The aromas are primarily of fresh fruit and florals.

Pinot Gris embodies complex flavours such as cinnamon and lemon, with a tingly aftertaste. Late harvest French-style Pinot Gris is a rather sweet wine. This is due to noble rot, which creates honeylike undertones.

Pinot Grigio tends to be a lighter, crisp, dry style of wine with flavours of citrus and green apple, pear, lime and lemon, with a refreshing spark of acidity. Some Italian-style Grigio wines also have a floral aroma of honeysuckle.

The Pinot Gris style pairs well with roast pork, creamy pasta, and dense cheeses like Comté or Gruyère, seared scallops, or creamy mushroom risotto. Off-dry versions go well with spicy Asian or Indian dishes like chicken tikka masala or Thai green curry.

The lighter Pinot Grigio is a great apéritif but, also goes well with grilled shrimp, salads or fruit platters and sushi.

Now it is up to you to decide whether you prefer Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio.

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Sauternes Wine

February 3, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Sauternes is a sweet wine from France’s Bordeaux region. It is made from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes that have been affected by Botrytis cinerea, also known as noble rot. Sauternes is one of the few wine regions where infection with noble rot is a frequent occurrence. The noble rot causes the grapes to partially shrivel like raisins, resulting in concentrated and distinctively flavoured wines.

Sauternes is a full-bodied, sweet, late-harvest white wine that is an exceptional dessert wine. It is well complimented by aging in oak barrels and will keep for several decades.

Wine production is not consistent from one year to the next as harvests vary widely. The wines produced from Sauternes can be very expensive, largely due to the very high cost of production.

Sauternes are characterized by sweetness with the zest of acidity. Some common flavour notes include apricot, butterscotch, caramel, coconut, mango, marmalade and citrus, as well as honeysuckle and toasted baking spices. The finish may remain on the palate for several minutes. A Sauternes typically starts out with a golden yellow colour that darkens as it ages.

Most Sauternes are sold in half bottles of 375 ml. The wines are typically served chilled at 10 °C, but wines older than 15 years are often served a few degrees warmer.

Sauternes is a great dessert wine but it may also be served with several food pairings. Consider cheesecake of all kinds, almond tart, lemon tart, meringues and custards. As well, it may be served along side something savory such as Roquefort or Livarot cheese and foie gras or terrine with caramelized onions. Mains such as herb-roasted poultry or spicy Asian fare are recommended as well.

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Right and Left Bank Bordeaux Wines

January 20, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Bordeaux; most people have heard of this French wine region, which is one of the most famous Old World wine regions, but many people don’t understand it. To begin with, Bordeaux is divided into two sections, referred to as the Left Bank and the Right Bank. The banks refer to the left (west)and right (east) bank of the Gironde Estuary and Garonne River.

The Left and Right banks have significantly different terroirs. A terroir is the natural environment in which a particular wine is produced, including factors such as the soil, topography, and climate.

The soil is rockier on the Left Bank. It is packed with gravel and deep deposits of limestone which serves to provide more character and potential quality in the wine. This is why Left Bank wines are considered prime candidates for aging, while Right Bank wines are generally thought to be smoother and more drinkable at the time they are released for sale.

This is not to suggest that Right Bank wines are simple and boring. With limestone closer to the surface and less gravel for the vine roots to contend with, the wines of the Right Bank don’t lack character; it’s just that they possess a different kind of character.

When it comes to the grape varietals grown, because of the differences in the terroir between the Left and Right Bank, each supports its own type of grape. As a result, this is often the best way to distinguish between a Left and Right Bank Bordeaux, as the label will not often tell you. Left Bank wines are mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a smaller portion of Merlot. The Right Bank wines are dominated by Merlot balanced by a smaller proportion of Cabernet.

The Cabernet dominated Left Bank wines tend to be higher in tannin, thus the reason why they age well. Aging the wine helps to mellow out the tannins and integrate the flavors of the wine. Merlot-based Right Bank wines are generally smoother, with softer fruit flavours as tannins are not as dominating.

The last comparison is between the wineries or chateaux themselves. These are the castle-like structures that appear on many of the Bordeaux wine labels. Generally, the Left Bank chateaux have larger vineyards than those of the Right Bank. Left Bank vineyards are on average 5o to 80 hectares in size versus those of the Right Bank, which only have a maximum of about 30 hectares. However, this is only a fun-fact as vineyard size really has no impact on the quality or character of the wine. Arguably the most renown chateaux include Chateau Margaux, Lafite, and Mouton Rothschild on the Left Bank and Petrus and Cheval Blanc from the Right Bank.

So, which wines are better? Neither. If you are looking for a wine to enjoy with dinner tonight, a Right Bank wine is probably the better choice, whereas if you are looking for a wine to age and appreciate in the future, you will find that a Left Bank wine will improve with age and provide a delightfully satisfying experience when it is uncorked in a few years’ time.

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