A Lost Appetite

August 17, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Many of the world’s wine regions are facing problems resulting from an oversupply of grapes. For example, last year the French government spent 200 million euros to dispose of surplus wine. In addition to that, Bordeaux region vintners received 57 million euros to destroy 9,500 hectares of grape vines.

In Australia, millions of vines are being destroyed and tens of millions more must be removed to control overproduction. Drastically reduced grape prices are threatening the incomes of growers and wine makers.

Falling consumption of wine worldwide has hit Australia particularly hard as demand shrinks fastest for the cheaper reds that are its biggest product. It had relied on the Chinese market for growth until recent years. Last year there was more than two billion litres of surplus wine in Australia.

Oversupply is not a new phenomenon. In the past the industry has always been able to readjust but going forward it may not be as easy. Past declines were triggered by economic factors such as market crashes, the tech boom, new tax laws and other more specific events that impacted the amount of money people spent and how they prioritized their consumption of wine.

Today the reduction in wine consumption is the result of a change in attitude and lifestyle resulting in people consuming less wine. Campaigns such a “Dry January” and “Sober October” are becoming more and more popular, leading to less wine consumption in the other ten months of the year. As a result, wine drinking has been declining year over year since 2017.

In France, wine consumption has declined significantly, from 150 litres per person per year in 1950, to 40 litres per person in 2022. The French people are no longer insular with just their own culture. Instead, they have adopted influences from other parts of the world and as a result, have substituted some of their wine consumption with other beverage options, such as beer, whiskey and cocktails.

Cuisine is changing as well, which has altered drinking habits. Lighter food choices and finger foods are often replacing traditional multi-course meals. Also, people have been reducing the amount of red meat in their diet. This has resulted in consumers wanting lighter, lower-alcohol wines. The Bordeaux region in particular has been greatly impacted by this, having reduced demand for their full-bodied red wines.

The U.S. market is being impacted as well due to a focus on wellness and a change in lifestyle. Non-alcoholic beverages sales there have increased 20.6 percent from 2021 to 2022.

People are drinking less wine but better wine. Over the past seven years, the U.S. wine industry is seeing growth rates sag in the under $12 category but wines in higher-priced tiers continue to see growth.

This change has also impacted wine sales in Australia where for the first time since the mid-1990s there is an oversupply based on a lack of consumer demand. A main driver of the decline is due to the lack of demand for Australin wine in the U.S.

There are other factors as well affecting Australian wine sales. In March 2021, China imposed a 218 percent tariff on Australian wine in response to Australia requesting an independent investigation as to the origins of COVID-19. China’s decision wreaked havoc on Australia’s wine industry.

The world is also still feeling the effects of the pandemic. From supply chain issues to how people purchase and consume wine was severely impacted. The good news is that there are indications that the wine industry is heading toward a return to normalcy, at least in this regard. Wine consumption remains lower than in 2015 but above what it was in 2021. This is largely due to the reopening of bars and restaurants. The long-term effects remain to be seen.

Depending on soil conditions, some French vintners are now investigating switching to other crops such as corn or wheat. Others are changing vineyards into livestock pastures. Australia is focusing on market expansion and providing wineries with market data so they can determine their best course of action. Not waiting for new markets to open, some growers are turning to citrus and nut trees instead.

One thing for certain is there is currently much uncertainty in the wine industry.

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Biodynamic Wine

July 6, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

While visiting a winery in the Beaujolais district of France a few weeks ago I was introduced to a new term. I was told that the winery I was visiting was a biodynamic winery. This was a description I had not heard before, so I decided to research the topic in more depth when I returned home from my trip.

You may be familiar with what organic farming entails (if not, see my post Organic Wine from August 8, 2020), however the biodynamic movement is somewhat different. According to the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association, biodynamics is “a spiritual-ethical-ecological approach to agriculture, gardens, food production and nutrition.” Biodynamic wine is made with a set of farming practices that views the vineyard as one solid organism. The ecosystem functions with each portion of the vineyard contributing to the next. Conceptually, everything in the universe is interconnected and gives off a resonance or ‘vibe’. This interconnectivity even includes celestial bodies like the moon, planets and stars. Biodynamic viticulture is the practice of balancing this resonance between vine, human, earth and stars. Biodynamics is a holistic view of agriculture.

As with organic farming, natural materials, soils, and composts are used to sustain the vineyard. Chemical fertilizers and pesticides are not permitted. A range of animals from ducks to horses to sheep live on the soil and fertilize it, creating a rich, fertile environment for the vines to grow in. Biodynamic farming also seeks sustainability, leaving the land in as good or better condition.

Biodynamic farming has been met with skepticism by many scientists as some of the practices are difficult at best to prove they work. In addition to organic practices, biodynamic farming takes other factors into account, such as the lunar calendar and astrology. This method of farming considers all aspects of life in the vineyard — other plants, insects and animals. It’s not just about the grapes.

Farming practices from pruning to harvesting are controlled by the biodynamic calendar. It breaks all the tasks associated with farming into four types of days: root days, flower days, fruit days and leaf days. Each of these categories has certain tasks associated with it that are reflective of the earth’s four classical elements. Fruit days are meant for harvesting, leaf days for watering, root days for pruning. On flower days, nothing is done in the vineyard.

Biodynamic farming calls for specific and sometimes strange compost and field preparations. One of these is known as cow horn manure. Cow horns are stuffed with manure compost and buried into the ground all through the winter, then excavated the following spring. When excavated, the stuffed material is spread throughout the vineyard.

Biodynamic wines must be certified and adhere to strict rules and regulations. The wineries are overseen by 2 governing bodies, Demeter International and Biodyvin.

Biodynamic wines can be found in the United States, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Eastern Europe, Chile, Argentina, India and Australia. Those who believe in the philosophy feel that the wines are more characteristic to the terroir where they originate. However, wine experts say there is no noticeable difference in the taste of biodynamic wine from organically produced wines. Is the difference worth the additional effort? You be the judge.

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The Châteauneuf-du-Pape District of France

June 7, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

While on a river cruise that was part of my recent trip to France, I overheard someone say that Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a famous French winery. Well, that is not exactly true. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a French Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) located around the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Rhône wine region in southeastern France. It is one of the most renowned appellations of the southern part in the Rhône Valley, and its vineyards are located around Châteauneuf-du-Pape and in the neighboring villages of Bédarrides, Courthézon and Sorgues, between Avignon and Orange. The region covers more than 3,200 hectares or 32 square kilometres and produces over 110,000 hectolitres of wine each year.

The primary grape grown in the district is Grenache, but Cinsault, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Muscadine, Syrah, Terret noir, Vaccarèse, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette blanche, Picardan, Roussanne, and Picpoul are also cultivated.

The terroir consists of white limestone. The stones absorb the heat of the sun and transfers it to the roots of the vines. The stones also help with allowing rain to penetrate the roots. This is critical since temperatures rise to about 45 degrees Celsius in the summer and irrigation is not permitted.

The harvest takes place from late August to early September. There are 323 vineyards in the district, all of which are family operated companies. Given the conditions, production yields are low and this is reflected in the price at your local wine store. However, the higher cost does not deter buyers as some wineries are selling their wines two years in advance.

I visited Maison Bouachon winery, which has been in operation since 1898. The vines on the estate generally range from 80 to 100 years in age. Wine production is completed following the methods and rules established by the AOC.

While there I sampled three of their wines, 2023 Côtes du Rhône white, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021 and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Special Edition. My personal favourite was the Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021, which is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre grapes. I purchased a bottle which was later enjoyed by my wife and me. Unfortunately, like so many of the French wineries, Maison Bouachon wines are not available outside of France. Such a pity.

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The Beaujolais Wine District

June 1, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

My wife and I recently returned from an excursion to France, which included exploration of several wine regions including the Beaujolais district of Burgundy. Beaujolais is a French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) wine, generally made from Gamay grapes. The grapes are thin skinned and are low in tannins.

The soil (terroir) consists of granite, schist, clay and sandstone. The vines are pruned using the goblet method, which is mainly practiced in the Mediterranean regions because having a foot close to the ground shelters the vine from the wind and the falling vegetation protects the grapes from the sun. This method of pruning only allows 3 to 5 branches to be kept on the vine. The branches end with a spur of 3 or 4 buds.

Goblet pruning is a drought-resistant and berry-protected method but prohibits the use of mechanized harvesting methods. Economically, the reduction in yields can be significant. The cost of production can be high due to an increased need for labour and the drop in production.

Climate change has been presenting a variety of challenges during recent years. Netting has had to be installed to protect the grapes from summertime hailstorms that have been regularly occurring since 2007. Very wet spring seasons, like this year, are threatening to delay the start of the growing season, thus reducing the yield potential and increasing the risk of mold on the vines.

The wines produced in the Beaujolais district include Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, cru Beaujolais and Beaujolais Nouveau. The region also produces a small amount of Chardonnay (about 4%) but none of that wine is sold outside of France.

We visited Château de Pravins, a 12^th century winery. The current owners acquired the winery in 1941. The purchaser was Joseph Mathieu, whose descendant, Isabelle Brossard, operates the winery today. It is a biodynamic winery (uses organic processes) that expands across 26 hectares. The grapes are still crushed by feet, but pipes and pumps are also now used. One kilo of grapes is required to produce a single bottle of wine. The AOC limits the Beaujolais wineries from producing any more than 6,000 litres of wine per hectare and allows only cement vats to be used in the production process.

While there we sampled three red wines, l’argile ardente No 2, les moraines, and l’argile ardente. I found all tree wines to be as equally as nice.

Based on the slow soggy start to the 2024 growing season, don’t be surprised if the 2024 vintage of Beaujolais wine is limited and thus more expensive than some previous years.

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Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio

February 17, 2024February 17, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are made from the same grape and are obviously both white wines, but it can be argued that the similarity ends there.

Pinot Gris originates in France and is believed to be a mutation of Pinot Noir. It’s mainly grown in the Alsace region of France. The grape is thought to have reached Italy during the 1300s where the variety was called Pinot Grigio. The Italian version is primarily grown in the Alto Adige region of northwestern Italy.

Gris is the French word for gray and grigio is gray in Italian. The gray describes the grayish-purple skin of the grapes.

Both Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio will appear on wines produced in countries other than France or Italy. There is an abundance of Pinot Gris grapes produced in countries such as Canada, the United States, Australia and New Zealand.

So what determines why some are labelled Pinot Gris while others are referred to as Pinot Grigio? Winemakers have the choice of selecting which name they use. There is no hard and fast rule, however most will base the name on the style of the wine they produce. You can usually tell the style by the colour. Pinot Gris style wines are typically darker and more yellow in colour, whereas Pinot Grigio wines are very light yellow, almost clear.

Pinot Gris wines are rich, full-bodied and accompanied by higher alcohol content. Made with fully ripe grapes that are occasionally barrel fermented, Pinot Gris often has extra sweetness and a creamy feel. The darker grape skins tend to produce a golden colour.

By contrast, Pinot Grigio is harvested early, resulting in a light-bodied, crisper wine with a lower level of alcohol. The aromas are primarily of fresh fruit and florals.

Pinot Gris embodies complex flavours such as cinnamon and lemon, with a tingly aftertaste. Late harvest French-style Pinot Gris is a rather sweet wine. This is due to noble rot, which creates honeylike undertones.

Pinot Grigio tends to be a lighter, crisp, dry style of wine with flavours of citrus and green apple, pear, lime and lemon, with a refreshing spark of acidity. Some Italian-style Grigio wines also have a floral aroma of honeysuckle.

The Pinot Gris style pairs well with roast pork, creamy pasta, and dense cheeses like Comté or Gruyère, seared scallops, or creamy mushroom risotto. Off-dry versions go well with spicy Asian or Indian dishes like chicken tikka masala or Thai green curry.

The lighter Pinot Grigio is a great apéritif but, also goes well with grilled shrimp, salads or fruit platters and sushi.

Now it is up to you to decide whether you prefer Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio.

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Sauternes Wine

February 3, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Sauternes is a sweet wine from France’s Bordeaux region. It is made from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes that have been affected by Botrytis cinerea, also known as noble rot. Sauternes is one of the few wine regions where infection with noble rot is a frequent occurrence. The noble rot causes the grapes to partially shrivel like raisins, resulting in concentrated and distinctively flavoured wines.

Sauternes is a full-bodied, sweet, late-harvest white wine that is an exceptional dessert wine. It is well complimented by aging in oak barrels and will keep for several decades.

Wine production is not consistent from one year to the next as harvests vary widely. The wines produced from Sauternes can be very expensive, largely due to the very high cost of production.

Sauternes are characterized by sweetness with the zest of acidity. Some common flavour notes include apricot, butterscotch, caramel, coconut, mango, marmalade and citrus, as well as honeysuckle and toasted baking spices. The finish may remain on the palate for several minutes. A Sauternes typically starts out with a golden yellow colour that darkens as it ages.

Most Sauternes are sold in half bottles of 375 ml. The wines are typically served chilled at 10 °C, but wines older than 15 years are often served a few degrees warmer.

Sauternes is a great dessert wine but it may also be served with several food pairings. Consider cheesecake of all kinds, almond tart, lemon tart, meringues and custards. As well, it may be served along side something savory such as Roquefort or Livarot cheese and foie gras or terrine with caramelized onions. Mains such as herb-roasted poultry or spicy Asian fare are recommended as well.

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Right and Left Bank Bordeaux Wines

January 20, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Bordeaux; most people have heard of this French wine region, which is one of the most famous Old World wine regions, but many people don’t understand it. To begin with, Bordeaux is divided into two sections, referred to as the Left Bank and the Right Bank. The banks refer to the left (west)and right (east) bank of the Gironde Estuary and Garonne River.

The Left and Right banks have significantly different terroirs. A terroir is the natural environment in which a particular wine is produced, including factors such as the soil, topography, and climate.

The soil is rockier on the Left Bank. It is packed with gravel and deep deposits of limestone which serves to provide more character and potential quality in the wine. This is why Left Bank wines are considered prime candidates for aging, while Right Bank wines are generally thought to be smoother and more drinkable at the time they are released for sale.

This is not to suggest that Right Bank wines are simple and boring. With limestone closer to the surface and less gravel for the vine roots to contend with, the wines of the Right Bank don’t lack character; it’s just that they possess a different kind of character.

When it comes to the grape varietals grown, because of the differences in the terroir between the Left and Right Bank, each supports its own type of grape. As a result, this is often the best way to distinguish between a Left and Right Bank Bordeaux, as the label will not often tell you. Left Bank wines are mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a smaller portion of Merlot. The Right Bank wines are dominated by Merlot balanced by a smaller proportion of Cabernet.

The Cabernet dominated Left Bank wines tend to be higher in tannin, thus the reason why they age well. Aging the wine helps to mellow out the tannins and integrate the flavors of the wine. Merlot-based Right Bank wines are generally smoother, with softer fruit flavours as tannins are not as dominating.

The last comparison is between the wineries or chateaux themselves. These are the castle-like structures that appear on many of the Bordeaux wine labels. Generally, the Left Bank chateaux have larger vineyards than those of the Right Bank. Left Bank vineyards are on average 5o to 80 hectares in size versus those of the Right Bank, which only have a maximum of about 30 hectares. However, this is only a fun-fact as vineyard size really has no impact on the quality or character of the wine. Arguably the most renown chateaux include Chateau Margaux, Lafite, and Mouton Rothschild on the Left Bank and Petrus and Cheval Blanc from the Right Bank.

So, which wines are better? Neither. If you are looking for a wine to enjoy with dinner tonight, a Right Bank wine is probably the better choice, whereas if you are looking for a wine to age and appreciate in the future, you will find that a Left Bank wine will improve with age and provide a delightfully satisfying experience when it is uncorked in a few years’ time.

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Rhine River Cruise

November 11, 2023 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

My wife and I recently returned from a Rhine River cruise where we had the opportunity to sample wines from Switzerland, France and Germany during our travels. I was most anxious to try some Swiss wines as I had never had the opportunity of tasting any. These wines are not often available outside of Switzerland (see The Wines of Switzerland from May 1, 2021).

The first Swiss wine we tried was a 2022 Weinbau Ottiger Pinot Noir. The wine is very similar in character to a French Pinot Noir. The second sampling was a red blend from Château Constellation sa 1950 Sion, called “Humagne Rouge”. It has a spicy bouquet characterized by notes of pine and cinnamon. It has accents of black fruit aromas balanced by silky tannins. It was very enjoyable.

We ventured through Strasbourg, France and the Alsace wine region. World-renowned for its viticulture, Alsace has a dry mild climate, favourable soils and ideal exposure to the sun for its vineyards. The white wines produced here rival the Rieslings created in neighbouring Germany.

While in Breisach, Germany, the tour offered a wine tasting at Domaine Albert Seltz, Alsatian Vineyards. There they follow a rigorous process to preserve the authenticity of their wines, respecting traditional techniques while integrating the most recent advances in technology. Sustainable viticultural practices are followed that promote biodiversity and respect for nature.

The area surrounding Breisach, the capital of Alsatian wines, has the third largest wine co-op in the world, following California and South Africa. Twelve million litres of wine are produced there each year, taking advantage of being the sunniest place in all of Germany.

We also visited Rüdesheim, which is a German winemaking town in the Rhine Gorge, and part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is in the heart of the Rheingau wine region.

Close to Speyer, Germany lies the Roter Hang wine area. It is considered to be one of the most important vineyard sites in the world, sitting to the south of Mainz, not far from Nierstein and Nackenheim. The soil is red, the result of red slate that exists throughout the region, providing the perfect conditions for outstanding wines that are characterised by unmistakeable flavour.

Further north at the intersection of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers is the town of Koblenz. Koblenz is a principal seat of the Mosel and Rhenish wine trade. Mosel is best known for growing some of the finest Riesling grapes in the world.

The vineyards are found tiered along the hillsides of the Moselle River. The steepest vineyard slopes in all of Europe are found here. Some of the grape vines are planted in vertical rows while others are in horizontal rows. The grapes planted vertically are machine groomed vines while those planted horizontally are generally on the steepest slopes and are maintained totally by manual labour.

Along the Moselle River in Winningen we visited the Weingut Rüdiger Kröber winery where we sampled four different Riesling wines ranging from dry to sweet; the 2022 “Kröber Weingut Steinig Riesling” dry, the 2022 “Kröber Weingut Uhlen Laubach” dry, the 2022 “Kröber Weingut Winninger Brückstück Riesling Feinherb” semi dry and the 2021 “Kröber Weingut Winninger Röttgen Kahimer Riesling Alte Reben” sweet. I found the Uhlen Laubach to be my favourite as it was robust with character and full of flavour.

The winery’s vineyards are up to 28 terraces in height along the slope of the hills. Weingut Rüdiger Kröber grows 90% Riesling, 5% Pinot Blanc and 5% Pinot Noir varietals. The vines range from 50 to 80 years in age. The winery produces 60,000 bottles of wine per year and like many of the wineries in the region, it is all sold locally to individuals and restaurants.

Now that we have returned home from the Rhine, my wife and I are in the midst of planning our next wine excursion, which will be along the Rhone River in France during the spring of 2024.

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From One Passion to the Other

October 7, 2023 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

People sometimes look at me funny when I tell them I periodically write about whiskey in my wine blog. However, here is an excellent example of how the world of one is in many ways very similar to that of the other.

Raimonds Tomsons, who is from Latvia, won the ASI (Association de la Sommellerie Internationale) Best Sommelier of the World competition earlier this year in Paris, France. Prior to winning the championship, Tomsons had already made a name for himself due to his work in wine, being a board member of the Latvian Sommelier Association and having worked with several high-end restaurants and importers in Latvia.

He is now going to be the global brand ambassador for The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. of Dublin, Ireland. Tomsons will now be applying his expertly trained nose and palate in his new role. He sees this new endeavor as giving him the opportunity to further enhance his learning by exploring the diverse world of spirits and other beverages.

Tomsons sees that by joining Jay Bradley and his team at The Craft Irish Whiskey Co., he will have an opportunity to explore fine Irish whiskey in depth, and work on innovative whiskey and food pairings. Bradley feels that Tomsons’’ knowledge and ability to detect nuances and layers of flavour compliments the way he makes whiskeys, each bottle of which offers a unique complexity of flavours.

The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. was founded by Bradley in 2018. The distillery creates rare and ultra-rare Irish whiskeys, including The Emerald Isle, worth an incredible $2 million US, making it one of the most expensive whiskeys in the world.

Craft Irish Whiskey is made only in a pot still and with hand-selected barrels. They craft whiskey as it was once made before the rise of blends and mass-production techniques. They are proud to be reviving the art of crafting whiskey. The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. considers themselves as being rooted in tradition but with an eye on the future, a modern expression of a historic craft.

It is now also a marriage between the world of wine and that of whiskey.

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The Effects of Climate Change in Bordeaux

September 16, 2023 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Rising summer temperatures are impacting grape growers around the world, however today I will focus on France’s Bordeaux region. Temperatures are expected to rise between 0.3°C and 1.7°C over the next 20 years. At this point global warming has benefited Bordeaux but that is about to change, especially if the grape crop is not somewhat modified.

Growers are going to need to reconsider their mix of grapes as temperatures continue to rise. The future of white varietals from the region may become non-existent while the existing proportion of reds, where 60% to 70% is currently Merlot, is already too great an amount. Merlot is ideal in cooler regions where there is a shorter growing season. However, with temperatures increasing and the growing season getting longer, Merlot now ripens too quickly. Many of these vines will need to be replaced with varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, which perform better in hotter climates with a longer growing season.

At least until now the increase in temperature and the resulting riper fruit have not had a detrimental effect on the quality of the wine. Instead, higher temperatures have made wine quality more consistently better. However, if warming continues the quality of the wine will begin to deteriorate.

It is well known that high temperatures can have harmful effects on grape composition, such as a decrease in anthocyanins (the pigmented molecules that give red wine its colour), as well as other molecules, that could cause unpredictable aromas. The grape skins are also negatively impacted by higher temperatures.

Growers, scientists, and wine professionals all speculate that continued increases in temperature will negatively impact fruit and wine quality in the future. However, to date Bordeaux has successfully adapted to the quickly changing climate, but experts fear that the danger point is swiftly approaching.

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