Regions

Countries with The Worst Wine Trade Deficits

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

According to the most recent statistics, the following countries have the highest negative net exports for wine. Net exports are defined as the value of a country’s total exports minus the value of its total imports. Thus, the statistics below present the deficit between the value of each country’s wine import purchases and its wine exports (in U.S. dollars).

Photo credit: bkwine.com
  1. United States: -$6.2 billion
  2. United Kingdom: -$4.4 billion
  3. Canada: -$2.2 billion
  4. Japan: -$1.9 billion
  5. Germany: -$1.8 billion
  6. China: -$1.4 billion
  7. Switzerland: -$1.2 billion
  8. Netherlands: -$1 billion
  9. Russia: -$882.3 million
  10. Sweden: -$793.9 million
  11. Belgium: -$750.2 million
  12. Hong Kong: -$727.8 million
  13. South Korea: -$581.1 million
  14. Denmark: -$580.1 million
  15. Norway: -$499.4 million

The combined North American deficit of $8.4 billion in international wine trade has a strong demand for both Old World and New World brands. In turn, this negative cashflow highlights North America’s strong competitive disadvantage for wine sales but also indicates opportunities for other wine-supplying countries to contribute toward satisfying North America’s consumer thirst and wide-ranging tastes for different types of wines.

Sláinte mhaith

Wine Exporting Companies

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Based on the most recent statistics among continents, European countries sold the highest dollar value of wine exported with shipments worth $30.3 billion U.S. or 76.2% of the world’s total wine exports. Oceania’s international wine sales were led by Australia and New Zealand and came in at 7.4%. Latin America, excluding Mexico but including the Caribbean was at 7%. North America exporters provided 3.9% of worldwide wine exports, while Asia shipped 3.7% and African suppliers provided 1.9% of wine sales.

Below are the world’s largest wine conglomerates. Shown within parentheses is the country where the company is headquartered. These names may not be familiar to you but most of their wine brands will be.

  • Accolade Wines (Australia)
  • Casella Wines (Australia)
  • Concha y Toro (Chile)
  • Constellation Brands (United States)
  • E. & J. Gallo (United States)
  • Pernod Ricard Winemakers (France)
  • The Wine Group (United States)
  • Treasury Wine Estates (Australia)
  • Trinchero Family Estates (United States)

The following list identifies some of the world’s most popular wine brands. You will find most, if not all of these brands in your local wine store. Each brand is owned by the wine-producing conglomerate shown in parentheses.

  • Barefoot (E & J Gallo Winery, United States)
  • Gallo (E & J Gallo Winery, United States)
  • Concha y Toro (Concha y Toro, Chile)
  • Robert Mondavi (Constellation Brands, United States)
  • Sutter Home (Trinchero Family Estates, United States)
  • Yellow Tail (Casella Wines, Australia)
  • Hardy’s (Accolade Wines, Australia)
  • Lindeman’s (Treasury Wine Estates, Australia)
  • Beringer (Treasury Wine Estates, United States)
  • Jacob’s Creek (Pernod Ricard Winemakers, France)

Does this mean that these are the best wines in the world? No. It only signifies that they produce the highest volumes of wine. Big doesn’t make it better, especially in the case of wine. Small production estate wineries generally produce a better, more consistent product at a similar price point.

Sláinte mhaith

Do Big Wine Exporters Import Wine?

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment
Photo credit: therealreview.com

Enquiring minds want to know whether the top wine producers of the world only export wine or do they import it as well?  And if they do obtain wine from elsewhere, what are their countries of choice?

Let’s begin by identifying who the top 10 wine exporters are. Based on the latest world wine export statistics, the top wine exporters are:

  1. France, which exported the equivalent of $11.9 billion U.S.
  2. Italy, which exported the equivalent of $7.7 billion U.S.
  3. Spain, which exported the equivalent of $2.9 billion U.S.
  4. Chile, which exported the equivalent of $1.9 billion U.S.
  5. New Zealand, which exported the equivalent of $1.3 billion U.S.
  6. Portugal, which exported the equivalent of $780.4 million U.S.
  7. Argentina, which exported the equivalent of $780.2 million U.S.
  8. Australia, which exported the equivalent of $779.1 million U.S.
  9. South Africa, the fastest growing export market in the world, shipped the equivalent of $646 million U.S.
  10. Georgia, which exported the equivalent of $247.8 million U.S.

These same countries also posted the highest positive net exports of wine. Net exports are defined as the value of a country’s total wine exports minus the value of its total wine imports.  

It is interesting to note that the 5 biggest exporters of wine collectively supplied 70.1% of globally exported wine in terms of dollar sales.

So, how much wine do each of these countries import? Beginning with France, in 2022 it imported around 628 million litres of wine at a value of about $600 million U.S. Those imports came from Spain with a share of 23% ($251 million), Italy with a share of 21% ($233 million) and the U.S. with a share of 10.8% ($115 million).

Italy imported $500 million of wine. Those imports came mainly from France ($353 million), Spain ($75.2 million), Germany ($12.5 million), Portugal ($10.1 million) and United Arab Emirates ($7.66 million).

Spain imported $332 million in wine, mainly from France ($196 million), Italy ($61.6 million), Portugal ($21.6 million), Germany ($7.83 million) and the United Kingdom ($7.06 million).

Chile imported $19.8 million of wine, making it the 83rd largest importer of wine in the world. Chile imports wine primarily from: Italy ($6.98 million), Argentina ($3.9 million), United Arab Emirates ($3.36 million), France ($1.92 million) and Spain ($1.81 million).

Domestic wine consumption in New Zealand accounts for an estimated 49.2 million litres of the 90.2 million litres currently sold there each year. The remaining 41 million litres (45.5 per cent) was imported. The total import market was valued at $236 million.

Portugal’s wine imports amounted to over $50 million.

Argentina imported $12.9 million of wine, making it the 103rd largest importer of wine in the world. Wine imports came primarily from: France ($4.47 million), United Arab Emirates ($3.82 million), Chile ($2.17 million), Spain ($728 thousand) and Italy ($568 thousand).

Australia’s total wine imports have increased over the past few years, rising to 106 million litres. This is a compound average annual growth rate of just under 3 per cent.

South Africa imported $53.4 million of wine, making it the 53rd largest wine importer in the world.

Georgia imported $15.3 million of wine, becoming the 94th largest wine importer. Wine was the 179th most imported product in Georgia.

So, what does all this show? Even the great wine producers of the world like to have variety in the wines they drink.

Sláinte mhaith

Arterra Wines Canada

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

The name Arterra Wines has come up in discussion in a couple of my blog posts in the past regarding their acquisitions within the wine industry. So, it seems to be a good time to investigate and find out more about Arterra Wines.

According to the Arterra Wines Canada website, their mission is, “To build wine brands people love”. Their origins date back to 1874 when the Niagara Falls Wine Company was founded. In 1994 they became known as Vincor International. In 2006, Vincor was acquired by Constellation Brands, a U.S.-based company that is both a leading international producer and marketer of beer, wine and spirits. Finally, in 2016, the Canadian branch of Constellation Brands was acquired by the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan and became Arterra Wines Canada.

With many iconic and recognized wine brands, Arterra is developing and expanding their wine portfolio to provide Canadians from coast-to-coast with the opportunity to enjoy and experience wines made both in Canada and from renowned wine-making regions around the world.

Arterra owns and operates Wine Rack retail stores in Ontario, as well as sells wine kits and products for winemaking at RJS Craft Winemaking.

Here is the timeline of important events that have taken place throughout the life of Arterra Wines:

1874

  • Niagara Falls Wine Company was founded.

1911

  • Niagara Falls Wine Company renamed T.G. Bright & Co. Limited.

1975

  • Inniskillin is given the first Canadian winery license since 1929 in Ontario, making it the first estate winery in Canada.

1986

  • T.G. Bright & Co. Limited acquires Jordan & Ste-Michelle Cellars Limited.

1989

  • Don Triggs and Alan Jackson, with a group of employees and investors, purchase Cartier Wines from John Labatt Limited.

1992

  • Cartier Wines acquires Inniskillin.

1993

  • Jackson-Triggs brand launches.

1994

  • T.G. Bright & Co. changes its name to become Vincor International Inc.

2000

  • Acquisition of Sumac Ridge, one of B.C.’s first wineries, and See Ya Later Ranch (formerly Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards) in the Okanagan, B.C.

2001

  • NK’Mip Cellars Inc. in B.C. becomes first Aboriginal winery thanks to the joint venture with Osoyoos Indian Band and Vincor International.
  • Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery opens.

2003

  • Acquisition of Kim Crawford Wines of Auckland, New Zealand.

2005

  • Naked Grape brand launches.

2006

  • Vincor International is acquired by Constellation Brands.

2009

  • Open Wine brand launches in Ontario (and later in B.C. in 2011).

2012

  • Vincor International starts operating under the Constellation Brands name.

2013

  • Bodacious brand wine launches.

2016

  • Constellation Brands is acquired by the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan.

2017

  • The name is changed to Arterra Wines Canada.

2019

  • Acquisition of Culmina Family Estate Winery in B.C.s Okanagan Valley. 
  • After stopping production in 2016, Jordan, Ontario’s Le Clos Jordanne wines were re-established.

2020

  • Acquisition of Sandbanks Winery, Prince Edward County, Ontario (see March 8, 2020 post, The Shifting of Sandbanks).
  • Acquisition of Tom Gore Vineyards and the trademark rights to Paso Creek, Revolution, Vintage Ink and R.H. Phillips.

2021

  • Acquisition of Vin First, a Canadian canning and Tetra™ packaging company, specializing in the beverage alcohol industry. 

2023

  • New location for Le Clos Jordanne on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench.
  • Acquisition of Angels Gate Winery and Kew Winery, Niagara, Ontario.
  • Acquisition of Champagne Palmer of Champagne, France.

How long Arterra Wines remains under the control of the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan and a Canadian corporation remains to be seen. Should ownership become non-Canadian in the future, a significant portion of the Canadian wine industry will hang precariously in the balance; a sobering thought.

Sláinte mhaith

Barbaresco vs. Barolo

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

I recently enjoyed a bottle of Barolo with dinner one night followed by a Barbaresco the following night. Having the two bottles back-to-back reminded me how different the two wines are despite being made from the same Nebbiolo grapes and being produced in the Piedmont region of Italy.

Photo credit: pinterest.co.kr

Production of both Barolo and Barbaresco occur in the Langhe hills near the town of Alba. The Barbaresco zone is northeast and the Barolo zone is southeast of the town.  In accordance with Italy’s governing body, the DOCG (denominazione di origine protetta or Denomination of Controlled Origin.) Barolo may only be produced in the comuni or townships of La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo and Monforte d’Alba. Barbaresco wine is produced in Treiso, Neive, San Rocco Seno d’Elvio and Barbaresco.

There are differences in the two sub-regions. The Barolo area is located at a slightly higher altitude and has more south-facing vineyard exposures. This results in slower ripening grapes than those of the Barbaresco area to the north. The northern region it is warmer, due to the lower altitudes and warm sea winds. As a result, the grapes ripen faster.

The soils of the two area are different as well. The soils of Barbaresco are slightly sandier, less compact, and have more nutrients. As a result, the wines have a softer character. The firmer soils of Barolo create bolder, more tannic wines.

According to DOCG regulations, Barbaresco must be aged a minimum of 26 months, with at least 9 of those months in oak. Barbaresco Riserva must be aged a minimum of 50 months with at least 9 months in oak.

Barolo wines are aged a minimum of 38 months, with 18 months being in oak. Barolo Riserva needs to age 60 months with 18 months in oak. The longer aging requirements are necessary because of the more intense tannins that are in Barolo wines.

When it comes to flavour, Barolo is the bigger, bolder and more structured. It may have an array of aromas of plums, sour cherries, tobacco or truffles.

Barbaresco is generally a lighter wine with flavours of ripe fruit. Barbaresco is strongly influenced by the soil, vineyard location and the winemaker’s techniques.

As to which wine is better, that is up to you to decide.  Personally, I like both equally. My preference is determined in the moment, whether it be a dinner pairing or simply my mood.

Sláinte mhaith

Old Vines Versus New Vines

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Old vines or new vines; does it make a difference when it comes to making wine? The simple answer is yes, but there are some things to take into consideration. The main sticking point is finding common ground for the definition of ‘old’. The definition is not industry controlled so depending on where you ask, the meaning changes.

Photo credit: lastbottlewines.com

In France, New Zealand and Canada, ‘old’ can mean 30 years. In Australia, California and Spain, the vines are not considered ‘old’ until they are 50 or 60 years of age. A few Californian producers who have vines as old as 80 to 100 years have adopted the designation ‘ancient vines’. If 80 years is considered ancient then by comparison there are several Australian vineyards with vines of such an age they would be considered prehistoric, dating back more than 150 years, the upper limit of longevity. Without a true international standard for identifying the relative maturity of vines from one country to the next, the consumer must beware and take into consideration where the wine was produced.

The lifespan of a vine is determined by several factors. The vines of France and other European nations were destroyed during the 1800s and early 1900s by a sap-sucking root pest called phylloxera that destroyed the plants and necessitated replanting on resistant North American rootstocks. Also, in the relatively rainy parts of Europe, such as much of France, the vines die decades before they tend to in the hot dry regions of South Australia, California, Chile and much of Spain. Harsh winters in countries such as Canada led to vines having only a 30 to 35 year lifespan.

Young grape vines, though productive, deliver variable quality wine from year to year. When the sun shines, they grow a great amount of foliage which can produce bitter grapes. When it rains, these vines bloat with water. The vines require massive pruning to reduce the amount of foliage and encourage ripening. By contrast, old vines are constant, their reduced sap flow naturally yields smaller berries with a higher ratio of solids to liquid.

The deep roots of old vines are a big asset. They tap moisture in drought conditions and guard against bloating during rainy times. Old vines also tend to ripen earlier, a great benefit to growers in cooler climates where cool autumn temperatures reduce the growing season.

Old vine wines provide richness and more complex flavours that build rather than trail off after the up-front fruit fades away.  Young vines produce nice, aromatic wines but lack the complexity of flavour of wine produced from older vines. Wines produced from old vines will often cellar longer than wines produced from young vines.

Wine produced by old vines is generally more expensive than similar young vine wines. Because of the rarity, lower yields and perceived enhancement of wine quality, old vines have become increasingly sought after and valued by both the wine industry and consumers. As a result, old vine grapes typically demand a higher price per tonne. This combined with consumer demand, has resulted in old vine wines being more expensive to purchase in the stores.

It has been said that the appreciation of an old vine wine can be a way to connect with the past and to celebrate an enduring art form, similar to listening to the music of a great composer, reading literature or observing at the art of past masters. Wine made from old vines can reveal the distinctive character of a specific historic place and the artistry of the vintner, both past and present.

Sláinte mhaith

Right and Left Bank Bordeaux Wines

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Bordeaux; most people have heard of this French wine region, which is one of the most famous Old World wine regions, but many people don’t understand it. To begin with, Bordeaux is divided into two sections, referred to as the Left Bank and the Right Bank. The banks refer to the left (west)and right (east) bank of the Gironde Estuary and Garonne River.

The Left and Right banks have significantly different terroirs. A terroir is the natural environment in which a particular wine is produced, including factors such as the soil, topography, and climate.  

The soil is rockier on the Left Bank. It is packed with gravel and deep deposits of limestone which serves to provide more character and potential quality in the wine. This is why Left Bank wines are considered prime candidates for aging, while Right Bank wines are generally thought to be smoother and more drinkable at the time they are released for sale.

This is not to suggest that Right Bank wines are simple and boring. With limestone closer to the surface and less gravel for the vine roots to contend with, the wines of the Right Bank don’t lack character; it’s just that they possess a different kind of character.

When it comes to the grape varietals grown, because of the differences in the terroir between the Left and Right Bank, each supports its own type of grape. As a result, this is often the best way to distinguish between a Left and Right Bank Bordeaux, as the label will not often tell you. Left Bank wines are mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a smaller portion of Merlot. The Right Bank wines are dominated by Merlot balanced by a smaller proportion of Cabernet.

The Cabernet dominated Left Bank wines tend to be higher in tannin, thus the reason why they age well. Aging the wine helps to mellow out the tannins and integrate the flavors of the wine. Merlot-based Right Bank wines are generally smoother, with softer fruit flavours as tannins are not as dominating.

The last comparison is between the wineries or chateaux themselves. These are the castle-like structures that appear on many of the Bordeaux wine labels.  Generally, the Left Bank chateaux have larger vineyards than those of the Right Bank. Left Bank vineyards are on average 5o to 80 hectares in size versus those of the Right Bank, which only have a maximum of about 30 hectares. However, this is only a fun-fact as vineyard size really has no impact on the quality or character of the wine. Arguably the most renown chateaux include Chateau Margaux, Lafite, and Mouton Rothschild on the Left Bank and Petrus and Cheval Blanc from the Right Bank.

So, which wines are better?  Neither. If you are looking for a wine to enjoy with dinner tonight, a Right Bank wine is probably the better choice, whereas if you are looking for a wine to age and appreciate in the future, you will find that a Left Bank wine will improve with age and provide a delightfully satisfying experience when it is uncorked in a few years’ time.

Sláinte mhaith

The Wines of Armenia

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Armenia is a wine region that I was unaware of until I saw an Armenian wine advertised recently in a wine catalogue. That enticed me to do some research and here is what I learned.

The bulk of wine grapes indigenous to Armenia are not very well known in North America. Hindering Armenia’s ability to familiarize the rest of the world with its wines are the ongoing conflicts surrounding its borders. Armenia is situated between Georgia, Iran, Azerbaijan and Turkey. Armenia’s rivers and high plateaus are surrounded by the Caucasus Mountains.

The country’s wine history is ancient. The region of Vayots Dzor claims to be home to the oldest winery in the world, in operation since some 6,100 years ago.

As with some other Eastern European countries, the progression of Armenian wine ended when the Soviet Red Army invaded in 1920. In 1922 the country was merged into the Transcaucasian Soviet Federated Socialist Republic. Then, in 1936 it became the Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic or Soviet Armenia.

Innovation stopped with the elimination of private enterprise. The Soviets converted wineries into processing plants and vineyards turned over fruit for brandy distillation or bulk wine production.  Some vineyards were planted in unfavorable locations, while others went neglected or abandoned.

In 1991, after the demise of the Soviet Union, Armenia regained its sovereignty. Young Armenians and those with investment money began to embrace the region’s ancient wine-making techniques and wine culture. As a result, Armenia has become the youngest oldest wine industry in the world.

During the Soviet years a great deal of information was lost, including knowledge of the traits of many indigenous grape varieties, understanding soil suitability, sun preference, as well as how much maceration and aging of the grapes is best. Regaining this knowledge requires years of experimentation.

A few producers work with international grapes mainly for the Russian and other former Soviet republic markets. However, new quality-driven wineries focus on local varieties. Much of the post Soviet revival has included using a combination of modern technology and traditional techniques, such as aging the wine in terracotta jars called karasi.

The drive to produce quality wines has helped winemakers find export partners. Being a landlocked country, Armenia cannot produce low-cost wines. It must become part of the higher-priced market segment.

Armenia contains four main wine regions. The best known is the south-central region of Vayots Dzor, a long, narrow plateau which stands out for its highest elevation vineyards, some which reach almost 6,000 feet above sea level.

The Aragatsotn region is situated at slightly lower elevation. The remaining regions include Ararat, which is located on a sunny plateau, and Armavir, which is a mountainous area in the southwest.

Grape varietals include Areni Noir, which produces medium-bodied red wines with fruits like cherry and strawberry laced with black pepper aromas. It compares in its freshness, silkiness and transparency to Pinot Noir.

Voskehat is Armenia’s signature white grape. The wine has light to medium body. It has floral and stone fruit aromas with notes of herbs and citrus.

Khndoghni, or Sireni, is a red grape that gives black fruit flavors, deep colour, good tannins and the potential to age.

To sum it up, Armenia is small, landlocked and poor. However, it appears to have resilience, an ability to adapt, and a desire to show the world its world-class wines. Many experts feel that there is a future for quality Armenian wines.

Sláinte mhaith

BC’s 2023 Movers and Shakers

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

These are the wineries from British Columbia that particularly caught my attention this past year. My impressions are based on several factors: the winery’s performance at both the National Wine Awards and the All Canadian Wine Championships, environmental and sustainability practices of each winery and my own thoughts.

I have listed the wineries in alphabetical order and have included several of their 2023 award winning wines. 

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Corcelettes was ranked as the second best performing small winery at this year’s National Wine Awards.  It is located on 150 acres in British Columbia’s Similkameen Valley. Charlie and Jesce Baessler blend passion, precision and science to craft their expressive, small lot premium wines. No short cuts are taken in finding balance between viticulture, the environment and winemaking.

Corcelettes first vintage was in 2011, consisting of 200 cases. They currently craft 8,200 cases of wine per year, with plans of each future vintage growing in production size.

Their portfolio includes predominantly Syrah and Pinot Noir, crafted from Similkameen grown grapes. There is also a small selection of premium wines from the Micro Lot Series; wines crafted from specially selected grapes available only in limited quantities.

In addition to this year, Corcelettes was among the Top 10 Small Wineries at the 2018, 2019 and 2021 National Wine Awards of Canada.       

This year’s Platinum and Gold award winning wines included:

  • Corcelettes 2020 Syrah Corcelettes Estate Vineyard
  • Corcelettes 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir Micro Lot Series
  • Corcelettes 2022 Oracle Rosé
  • Corcelettes 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Corcelettes Estate Vineyard
  • Corcelettes 2019 Merlot
  • Corcelettes 2020 Merlot
  • Corcelettes 2019 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Corcelettes 2020 Cabernet Franc

Deep Roots Winery

Deep Roots was awarded Best Performing Small Winery at this year’s National Wine Awards where they earned 1 Platinum, 4 Gold, 1 Silver and 4 Bronze medals.

Their Platinum and Gold winners included:

  • Deep Roots 2020 Reserve Chardonnay
  • Deep Roots 2020 Parentage Red
  • Deep Roots 2022 Gamay
  • Deep Roots 2020 Syrah
  • Deep Roots 2022 Sauvignon Blanc

Deep Roots is a family owned and operated winery situated on the clay cliffs above Okanagan Lake on the Naramata Bench, where beginning in 2003 the Hardman family began switching their 100-year-old family farm from an apple orchard to a vineyard. Today they have 19 acres of grape vines spread between two Naramata vineyards, using almost exclusively estate fruit.

Initially the grapes were all sold to CedarCreek and Lake Breeze, among others. However, that all changed in 2012 when Will Hardman broke ground to create his own winery.  There are two vineyards at two sites on the Naramata Bench where they grow Muscat, Gamay, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Malbec and Syrah grapes.

All the vineyard work is done by hand, as the Hardmans are passionate about producing grapes that are the best expressions of each varietal.

Road 13 Vineyards

At Road 13 in Oliver, B.C., they farm to protect the land. Their philosophy is that by taking care of the dirt, the dirt then can take care of the roots of the vines, thus producing the best fruit possible. Doing things right means going the extra mile, in both the vineyard and in the cellar. Winemaker, Barclay Robinson and his crew farm organically to produce the best wine possible.

Road 13’s Platinum and Gold award winning wines included the following:

  • Road 13 2020 Select Harvest GSM
  • Road 13 2013 Jackpot Sparkling Chenin Blanc
  • Road 13 2020 John Oliver Cabernet Franc
  • Road 13 2021 Viognier
  • Road 13 2020 John Oliver Petit Verdot
  • Road 13 2022 Honest John’s Rose

SpearHead Winery

SpearHead Winery of Kelowna, B.C, appears on my list of British Columbia’s list of movers and shakers for the second straight year. 

Their focus is on premium quality wine which is produced from grapes grown in their estate vineyard and from selected Okanagan Valley vineyards. The hand harvested grapes are sorted at the winery and fermented in small lots.

SpearHead produces Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling varietals.  Approximately 80% of the 15 acres of vines is comprised of Pinot Noir including four different Dijon clones, 2 California heritage clones and Pommard.  This combination of plantings enables the wine maker to select from the different characteristics of these clones to create a complex Pinot Noir from their home vineyard.  They also draw from several other vineyards in the Okanagan including Golden Retreat in Summerland and Coyote Vineyard in West Kelowna.

Their 2023 Platinum and Gold award winning wines include the following:

  • SpearHead 2020 Club Consensus Pinot Noir
  • Spearhead 2020 Golden Retreat Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2021 Saddle Block Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2021 Cuvée Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2021 Golden Retreat Pinot Noir
  • SpearHead 2022 Pinot Gris

Wild Goose Winery

It all began in early 1983 when founder Adolf Kruger purchased a piece of land east of Okanagan Falls.

Kruger first planted Riesling and Gewürztraminer with the intention of selling the grapes. Over the following few years, outstanding wines were produced by purchasers of the grapes leading him to the decision to make his own wine.

Wild Goose Winery became the seventeenth winery in British Columbia and was established in June 1990. The winery started producing Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Maréchal Foch. Over time Wild Goose established itself as a premium small producer of VQA wines.

In July of 2021, the Wyse family of Burrowing Owl Vineyards purchased Wild Goose Vineyards & Winery.  Wild Goose’s approach to winemaking has been to grow the highest quality fruit and then transform it into premium wines.

Wild Goose’s 2023 award winning wines include:

  • Best White Wine of the Year – 2022 Gewürztraminer
  • Best Red Wine of the Year – 2021 Pinot Noir
  • 2022 Mystic River Gewürztraminer
  • 2020 Cabernet Merlot

Sláinte mhaith

Ontario’s Movers and Shakers 2023

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

It has become a bit of a tradition that as the year draws to a close that I share my thoughts as to which wineries are stepping forward to be noticed.  As usual I have based my opinions on each winery’s performance at both the National Wine Awards and the All Canadian Wine Championships, environmental and sustainability practices and my own personal impressions.

The number of wineries on my list varies from year to year as I prefer to highlight wineries that I feel have excelled. This is not to suggest that these are the only great wineries in the province; they are merely the ones that especially caught my attention this year.  The wineries are presented in alphabetical order and I have included several of each winery’s 2023 award winning wines. 

Broken Stone Winery

Having been introduced to this winery this past summer I have become a big fan.  I then did some research to see what I could find out about it.

Broken Stone began in 2009 when Tim and Micheline Kuepfer purchased three hayfields along a backroad near Hillier, in Prince Edward County.  At the time, the acre of newly planted grape vines that came with the land was almost an afterthought.  The first harvest was in 2010 when two tonnes of quality Pinot Noir grapes were picked.  An additional four acres of grapes were then planted with a vague notion that someday maybe a winery may be developed. 

In 2012 a small building was constructed and the necessary licensing to make wine was obtained.  Broken Stone Winery was born.   Since then, the Kuepfers have been balancing the busy lifestyle of raising a family in Toronto with their passion for growing vines and making wine in Prince Edward County.

The result has become a dynamic boutique winery in the heart of the Prince Edward County wine region. Their mission is to grow the highest quality grapes and craft world-class wines.  They believe that great grapes make great wine, and they strive to ensure that each great vintage is a little better than the last. Broken Stone continually strives to improve the vineyard biodiversity and soils. They strive to live in harmony with the earth and leave a legacy for future generations. 

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery

Colchester Ridge is a relatively new winery located in Harrow, which is in the Lake Erie North Shore wine region. The wine labels display the acronym CREW.

I was first introduced to CREW wines by a friend who brought my wife and I a bottle of Meritage when they came to stay with us for a weekend just prior to the pandemic. From then until this past July, my search for another bottle had been fruitless (no pun intended). Then finally I was able to order several bottles of their most recent release, the CREW 2020 Meritage.

CREW was established in 2001 by the husband and wife team of Bernie and Nancy Gorski. The Gorski’s planted twelve acres of vines on their family land in 2001 and produced their first vintage in 2004. Then in 2006 they opened their shop.  After years of continual growth, the Gorski’s launched the new CREW Winery & Gallery in November 2019.

Their award-winning wines include the following:

  • CREW  2020 Barrelman’s Blend
  • CREW  2020 Meritage
  • CREW 2018 Grand CREW Cabernet Sauvignon

Hidden Bench Estate Winery (ranked 1st at National Wine Awards)

Hidden Bench was recognized as the 2023 Winery of the Year at the National Wine Awards of Canada.  Hidden Bench has come close to top Awards before, previously competing in the small winery category. However, the winery has grown to produce now over 10,000 cases of wine each year, allowing it to qualify for the top prize. Owner Harald Thiel is committed to being an estate winery using only Beamsville Bench fruit. By controlling his own fruit, he can control the quality as well.

Hidden Bench has emerged as the signature property among several highly regarded wineries on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench, an area of gently sloping, north-facing, limestone-laced sites and maturing vineyards and wineries. All of the wines of Hidden Bench are sourced from the Beamsville Bench and are produced using a comprehensive sustainable approach.

Hidden Bench also appeared in my 2022 and 2020 Ontario lists.

Hidden Bench’s 2023 award winning wines include 2 Platinum, 5 Gold and 5 Silver winners.  The platinum and gold winning wines included the following:

  • Hidden Bench 2020 Pinot Noir Felseck Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2020 Chardonnay Tête de Cuvée Rosomel Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2020 Estate Riesling
  • Hidden Bench 2017 Natur Zero Dosage
  • Hidden Bench 2020 Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2021 Nuit Blanche Rosomel Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2021 Chardonnay Beton

Tawse Winery (Ranked 2nd at National Wine Awards)

Tawse Winery adheres to a non-interventionist philosophy and a firm belief that the start of every great wine begins in the vineyard. Their wines reflect their unique terroir near Vineland, in the heart of the Niagara wine Region.

Healthy vines yield quality fruit which allows for the creation of terroir-driven wines of great elegance, depth and character. Promoting the health of the vines and vineyards requires a labour-intensive and hands-on approach. Yields are kept low by cluster-thinning to ensure that all the energy of the vine is focused to ripen fewer, higher-quality grape clusters.

Organic farming feeds the vines and controls diseases without the use of synthetic insecticides, fungicides and fertilizers. They strive to create a diversified balanced ecosystem that generates health and fertility from the vineyard itself. Healthy vines mean less need for outside substances to control diseases and promote growth.

The architecture of the winery was created to be environmentally friendly. The wines are aged in underground cellars, which keeps the ambient temperature between 10 and 16 degrees Celsius, with a natural humidity of approximately 85%. The modern geo-thermal energy system has reduced the use of traditional forms of energy by 80%. There is also a wetland bio-filter which allows them to re-use all their sanitary and winery process water.

Tawse earned 2 Platinum, 4 Gold, 8 Silver and 5 Bronze medals this year at the National Wine Awards.  The Platinum and Gold award-winning wines include the following:

  • Tawse 2020 Carly’s Block Riesling
  • Tawse 2020 Tawse Riesling
  • Tawse 2020 Quarry Road Riesling
  • Tawse 2021 Sketches Riesling
  • Tawse 2020 Cabernet Merlot
  • Tawse 2020 Limestone Riesling Spark!

Sláinte mhaith