Regions

Ontario’s Movers and Shakers 2023

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It has become a bit of a tradition that as the year draws to a close that I share my thoughts as to which wineries are stepping forward to be noticed.  As usual I have based my opinions on each winery’s performance at both the National Wine Awards and the All Canadian Wine Championships, environmental and sustainability practices and my own personal impressions.

The number of wineries on my list varies from year to year as I prefer to highlight wineries that I feel have excelled. This is not to suggest that these are the only great wineries in the province; they are merely the ones that especially caught my attention this year.  The wineries are presented in alphabetical order and I have included several of each winery’s 2023 award winning wines. 

Broken Stone Winery

Having been introduced to this winery this past summer I have become a big fan.  I then did some research to see what I could find out about it.

Broken Stone began in 2009 when Tim and Micheline Kuepfer purchased three hayfields along a backroad near Hillier, in Prince Edward County.  At the time, the acre of newly planted grape vines that came with the land was almost an afterthought.  The first harvest was in 2010 when two tonnes of quality Pinot Noir grapes were picked.  An additional four acres of grapes were then planted with a vague notion that someday maybe a winery may be developed. 

In 2012 a small building was constructed and the necessary licensing to make wine was obtained.  Broken Stone Winery was born.   Since then, the Kuepfers have been balancing the busy lifestyle of raising a family in Toronto with their passion for growing vines and making wine in Prince Edward County.

The result has become a dynamic boutique winery in the heart of the Prince Edward County wine region. Their mission is to grow the highest quality grapes and craft world-class wines.  They believe that great grapes make great wine, and they strive to ensure that each great vintage is a little better than the last. Broken Stone continually strives to improve the vineyard biodiversity and soils. They strive to live in harmony with the earth and leave a legacy for future generations. 

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery

Colchester Ridge is a relatively new winery located in Harrow, which is in the Lake Erie North Shore wine region. The wine labels display the acronym CREW.

I was first introduced to CREW wines by a friend who brought my wife and I a bottle of Meritage when they came to stay with us for a weekend just prior to the pandemic. From then until this past July, my search for another bottle had been fruitless (no pun intended). Then finally I was able to order several bottles of their most recent release, the CREW 2020 Meritage.

CREW was established in 2001 by the husband and wife team of Bernie and Nancy Gorski. The Gorski’s planted twelve acres of vines on their family land in 2001 and produced their first vintage in 2004. Then in 2006 they opened their shop.  After years of continual growth, the Gorski’s launched the new CREW Winery & Gallery in November 2019.

Their award-winning wines include the following:

  • CREW  2020 Barrelman’s Blend
  • CREW  2020 Meritage
  • CREW 2018 Grand CREW Cabernet Sauvignon

Hidden Bench Estate Winery (ranked 1st at National Wine Awards)

Hidden Bench was recognized as the 2023 Winery of the Year at the National Wine Awards of Canada.  Hidden Bench has come close to top Awards before, previously competing in the small winery category. However, the winery has grown to produce now over 10,000 cases of wine each year, allowing it to qualify for the top prize. Owner Harald Thiel is committed to being an estate winery using only Beamsville Bench fruit. By controlling his own fruit, he can control the quality as well.

Hidden Bench has emerged as the signature property among several highly regarded wineries on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench, an area of gently sloping, north-facing, limestone-laced sites and maturing vineyards and wineries. All of the wines of Hidden Bench are sourced from the Beamsville Bench and are produced using a comprehensive sustainable approach.

Hidden Bench also appeared in my 2022 and 2020 Ontario lists.

Hidden Bench’s 2023 award winning wines include 2 Platinum, 5 Gold and 5 Silver winners.  The platinum and gold winning wines included the following:

  • Hidden Bench 2020 Pinot Noir Felseck Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2020 Chardonnay Tête de Cuvée Rosomel Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2020 Estate Riesling
  • Hidden Bench 2017 Natur Zero Dosage
  • Hidden Bench 2020 Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2021 Nuit Blanche Rosomel Vineyard
  • Hidden Bench 2021 Chardonnay Beton

Tawse Winery (Ranked 2nd at National Wine Awards)

Tawse Winery adheres to a non-interventionist philosophy and a firm belief that the start of every great wine begins in the vineyard. Their wines reflect their unique terroir near Vineland, in the heart of the Niagara wine Region.

Healthy vines yield quality fruit which allows for the creation of terroir-driven wines of great elegance, depth and character. Promoting the health of the vines and vineyards requires a labour-intensive and hands-on approach. Yields are kept low by cluster-thinning to ensure that all the energy of the vine is focused to ripen fewer, higher-quality grape clusters.

Organic farming feeds the vines and controls diseases without the use of synthetic insecticides, fungicides and fertilizers. They strive to create a diversified balanced ecosystem that generates health and fertility from the vineyard itself. Healthy vines mean less need for outside substances to control diseases and promote growth.

The architecture of the winery was created to be environmentally friendly. The wines are aged in underground cellars, which keeps the ambient temperature between 10 and 16 degrees Celsius, with a natural humidity of approximately 85%. The modern geo-thermal energy system has reduced the use of traditional forms of energy by 80%. There is also a wetland bio-filter which allows them to re-use all their sanitary and winery process water.

Tawse earned 2 Platinum, 4 Gold, 8 Silver and 5 Bronze medals this year at the National Wine Awards.  The Platinum and Gold award-winning wines include the following:

  • Tawse 2020 Carly’s Block Riesling
  • Tawse 2020 Tawse Riesling
  • Tawse 2020 Quarry Road Riesling
  • Tawse 2021 Sketches Riesling
  • Tawse 2020 Cabernet Merlot
  • Tawse 2020 Limestone Riesling Spark!

Sláinte mhaith

The World’s Biggest Wine Producers

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Here’s some information that may be of help on trivia night or for those of you who simply have an enquiring mind.  Below are 2022’s wine production statistics measured in million hectolitres.  I have included production numbers for the top 30 countries; however, the complete list is available at http://www.visualcapitalist.com.  A hectolitre contains 100 litres.  The information was gathered by the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV).

 Rank              Country        ContinentQuantity
(million hl)		% of Total
Production
1ItalyEurope49.819.3
2FranceEurope45.617.7
3SpainEurope35.713.8
4United StatesNorth America22.48.7
5AustraliaOceana12.74.9
6ChileSouth America12.44.8
7ArgentinaSouth America11.54.4
8South AfricaAfrica10.23.9
9GermanyEurope8.93.5
10PortugalEurope6.82.6
11RussiaEurope4.71.8
12ChinaAsia4.21.6
13New ZealandOceana3.81.5
14RomaniaEurope3.81.5
15BrazilSouth America3.21.2
16HungaryEurope2.91.1
17AustriaEurope2.51.0
18GeorgaEurope2.10.8
19GreeceEurope2.10.8
20MoldovaEurope1.40.5
21SwitzerlandEurope1.00.4
22North MacedoniaEurope0.90.4
23JapanAsia0.80.3
24PeruSouth America0.80.3
25UruguaySouth America0.80.3
26BulgariaEurope0.70.3
27CanadaNorth America0.70.3
28UkraineEurope0.70.3
29TürkiyeEurope0.60.2
30Czech RepublicEurope0.60.2

Just for fun I did some number crunching to determine the ratio of world production by continent. Because I rounded the individual country totals the overall total percentage added up to 101%, not 100. However, the continental totals will give you a fairly accurate perspective of world wine production.

 Rank            ContinentQuantity
(million hl)		% of Total
Production
1Europe172,70667
2South America28,66111
3North America23,4739
4Oceana16,5756
5Africa11,1364
6Asia7,3073
2022 wine production by continent

It is incredible that Europe controls two thirds of the world’s wine production.  I was surprised to see that overall, North America’s wine production was greater than Oceana (Australia and New Zealand),and was very surprised to see that Canada’s production was ranked as only 27th.  I imagined it would be somewhere closer to that of Hungary and Greece. However, quality outranks quantity. It would be interesting to know whether a quality scale could ever be devised to compare countries..

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The Effects of Climate Change in Bordeaux

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Rising summer temperatures are impacting grape growers around the world, however today I will focus on France’s Bordeaux region.  Temperatures are expected to rise between 0.3°C and 1.7°C over the next 20 years. At this point global warming has benefited Bordeaux but that is about to change, especially if the grape crop is not somewhat modified. 

Photo credit: foodandwine.com

Growers are going to need to reconsider their mix of grapes as temperatures continue to rise.  The future of white varietals from the region may become non-existent while the existing proportion of reds, where 60% to 70% is currently Merlot, is already too great an amount.  Merlot is ideal in cooler regions where there is a shorter growing season. However, with temperatures increasing and the growing season getting longer, Merlot now ripens too quickly.  Many of these vines will need to be replaced with varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, which perform better in hotter climates with a longer growing season.

At least until now the increase in temperature and the resulting riper fruit have not had a detrimental effect on the quality of the wine. Instead, higher temperatures have made wine quality more consistently better. However, if warming continues the quality of the wine will begin to deteriorate.

It is well known that high temperatures can have harmful effects on grape composition, such as a decrease in anthocyanins (the pigmented molecules that give red wine its colour), as well as other molecules, that could cause unpredictable aromas.  The grape skins are also negatively impacted by higher temperatures.

Growers, scientists, and wine professionals all speculate that continued increases in temperature will negatively impact fruit and wine quality in the future. However, to date Bordeaux has successfully adapted to the quickly changing climate, but experts fear that the danger point is swiftly approaching.

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Challenges for France’s Bordeaux Region

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This summer has proven to be especially bad for the grape harvest in France’s Bordeaux region.  The perfect combination of meteorological conditions has led to an alarming spread of mildew throughout the region. The combination of warm weather and rain has resulted in new plant growth being left unprotected as the wet weather has hindered the application of herbicides.

Photo credit: vivino.com

The mildew has been having the greatest impact on the red grape varietals, most notably Merlot.  So far this year the region has been impacted by two separate waves of mildew.   It remains to be seen whether the disease will progress onto the stalks of bunches and if it can be ultimately contained.

Some growers have lost their entire harvest.  As a result, a helpline has been established to help growers cope with the devastation.  Some grape growers are even considering their careers because of the mildew.  It has been quite traumatic for those trying to control it.

This is the second consecutive year where Bordeaux growers have been impacted by the weather.  The 2022 harvest was about 11% less than the ten-year average.

Grape growers are hoping that the region will soon see a return to more uninterruptedly dry, hot weather.  If the dry heat returns, Bordeaux may see the 2023 harvest being within the top three earliest harvests in the past decade.  However, given the devastation caused by the mildew, the harvest yield will be much lower than in previous years.  This will no doubt impact the price when the 2023 vintage of Bordeaux reaches store shelves in a few years’ time.

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B.C. Winemaker Séverine Pinte

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In June, Séverine Pinte, French born viticulturist and managing partner at both LaStella and Le Vieux Pin wineries, was awarded the Knight of the Order of Agricultural Merit.  The award was presented in Oliver, British Columbia by the Consul General of France, Nicolas Baudouin.

Photo credit: en.wikipedia.org

The Order of Agricultural Merit (Ordre du Mérite agricole) is presented by France for outstanding contributions to agriculture.  It is the highest distinction given in France to individuals, both French and foreign, who have made significant contributions in the fields of agriculture and the food and wine industry, whether in public duties or in the practice of agriculture. It also rewards people who have distinguished themselves in scientific research or in related publications.

Severine Pinte came to LaStella and Le Vieux Pin in 2010 with 14 harvests of international winemaking experience along with 8 years of vineyard management.  She is a graduate of the infamous ENSAM (Ecole National Superior Agronomic of Montpellier) where she acquired her Masters in viticulture and oenology, and her National Diploma of Oenology. After graduating from ENSAM she apprenticed at the Cave de Tecou in the AOC Gaillac before coming for the first time to British Columbia to work for Domaine de Chaberton as an assistant winemaker. In 1999 she returned to France and worked a year in Bordeaux under the direction of Andre Lurton in Pessac-Leognan. For nine years Severine was head winemaker and viticultural council for ‘Le Vignoble des 2 terres’ in the Terrasse du Larzac terroir.

In 2003 Severine worked at Frankland Estate winery in Australia and learned about the Australian way of making Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux originated varieties. Curiosity and the pursuit of new challenges lured Severine to British Columbia’s Okanagan.

Severine is an active member of British Columbia’s wine industry as a board member of the B.C. Wine Grape Council. She is a leading advocate of sustainable viticulture practices and was instrumental in launching the Sustainable Winegrowing B.C. certification program.

She has proven to be a true steward of the land, making some of the finest, most sought-after wines in B.C. at both Le Vieux Pin and LaStella wineries.  The wines produced by the two wineries may be purchased online through their respective websites, www.levieuxpin.ca and www.lastella.ca .

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Trek to The County

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During the first week of August my wife Valerie and I made our first post pandemic adventure to Prince Edward County.  I came prepared with a selection of wineries that I felt deserved a closer look, each having caught my attention for a variety of reasons.

The wineries are not presented in any particular order.

Hinterland Wine Company, 1258 Closson Rd, Hillier, Ontario

Hinterland Wine Company is a boutique winery specializing in wines made using the traditional method. Hinterland uses minimal intervention in their winemaking process, allowing the unique terroir to shine through.

I was particularly impressed with their 2021 L’Imparfait Seneca, which is classified as an orange wine, though it is very much red in colour.  It is a blend of 67% Pinot Noir, 26% Marquette and 7% Savagnin grapes.  If you like a sweet wine this one is definitely not for you; it has distinct earthy tones.

Closson Chase Winery, 629 Closson Rd, Hillier, Ontario

From Closson Chase we came away with some of their 2022 Estate Unoaked Chardonnay and 2021 Churchside Pinot Noir. 

The unoaked Chardonnay was sourced entirely from their South Clos vineyard. It was whole cluster pressed, then cool fermented in stainless steel at 14 C.

The Pinot Noir is sourced entirely from their Churchside vineyard. Destemmed with no crushing and cold soaked for 3-5 days. The juice was then fermented in oak tonneau and aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. The wine has five to seven years of cellaring potential.

Rosehall Run, 1243 Greer Rd, Wellington, Ontario

At Rosehall Run we found a 2021 Chardonnay Musque, a wine that not many wineries seem to produce. It is an unoaked variety that contains Chardonnay Musque grapes, rather than the more common Chardonnay.  The wine is 100% estate grown and bottled.

Another find was their 2019 Cabernet Merlot which is a blend of 49% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes that were sourced from select vineyards in the Niagara Peninsula.  This wine has a cellaring potential of a minimum of ten years. It has been consistently rated as a 92 out of 100 by several wine critics.

Grange of Prince Edward Vineyards and Estate Winery, 990 Closson Rd, Hillier, Ontario

At Grange I had to go with one of my favourite varietals, Cabernet Franc.  In this case it was their 2020 Cabernet Franc, which contains 100% estate grown grapes.  This is unusual for Prince Edward County given the slightly cooler climate and shorter growing season than either Niagara or the North Shore of Lake Erie. 

Broken Stone Winery, 524 Closson Rd., Hillier, ON

This find I must credit my brother for as he happened by it when he was touring the County earlier this summer.  He brought me back a bottle of each of their 2018 Intensity Meritage Blend Niagara Peninsula and 2021 Gamay Noir Barrel Reserve.  Both were delightful.

In addition to purchasing these two wines, I also picked up some of their 2021 Chardonnay Sans Chene.

Karlo Estate Winery, 561 Danforth Rd, Wellington, Ontario

I am pleased to report that Karlo is back in full swing with a complete lineup of both red and white wines, including their unique red blend Quintus.  Winemaker, Derek Barnett, has recreated this work of founder Richard Karlo using a blend of the classic noble grape varieties, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Old Third Vineyard, 251 Closson Rd, Hillier

The Old Third produces unfiltered Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay.  Unfortunately, the tasting room is inside a barn that can only be entered by climbing steps consisting of some uneven precariously strung planks with no handrail.  This proved too much of an obstacle for my post-stroke climbing ability so I had to pass on going inside.

Stanners Vineyard, 76 Station Rd., Hillier

Stanners locally grown Cabernet Franc has always been one of my favourite Prince Edward County wines but given the small quantity produced, it is often difficult to obtain and this year is no exception.  The 2020 Cabernet Franc VQA Prince Edward County is already sold out, as well as the 2020 Pinot Noir VQA Prince Edward County and the 2020 Pinot Noir VQA Prince Edward County.  However, I was still able to obtain the 2020 Cabernet Franc VQA Lincoln Lakeshore. The grapes for this Cabernet Franc came from a single vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula. The grapes were hand harvested then destemmed to whole berries with no crushing. The wine was aged in mostly older French oak barrels for 19 months and was not fined or filtered in order to preserve its fine fruit flavours. This wine is likely to age gracefully for quite a few years.

Devils Wishbone, County Road 7, Prince Edward County, Ontario

In the past I always enjoyed several of Devil Wishbone’s red varietals.  When I last visited the County in 2020 the winery was temporarily closed.  I anticipated a return visit there this summer but was saddened to learn that the owner, Jennifer Baldini, passed away in June of 2021 after suffering from a two-year illness.  The retail operations of the Devils Winery had been closed since the onset of her illness in 2019 but the vineyards were maintained in anticipation of her successful recovery.  Sadly, this didn’t prove to be the case and Devils Wishbone is now closed permanently.

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2023 Ontario Wine Awards

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Photo credit: ontariowineawards.com

The 2023 Canadian wine award season began in early June with the Ontario Wine Awards.  There were 558 entries from 77 Ontario wineries.

Receiving the honour of the Winemaker of the Year was Peller Estates Winery’s Katie Dickieson.  She earned more gold medals than any other winemaker in Ontario.

The Niagara region’s Domaine Queylus attained the Red Wine of the Year award for its 2020 Cabernet Franc Tradition.  This wine is only available directly from the winery but at a very affordable price of $33.50 CDN.

The White Wine of the Year award was presented to Prince Edward County’s Norman Hardie for their 2017 Semi-Dry Riesling.  This wine comes at a price of $21.00 CDN and is available from either the winery or select LCBO stores.

This year Gold medals were awarded in the following categories:

Sparkling Wine Award (Traditional Method)

Gold medals were presented to:

  • Malivoire Wine Bisous Rose NV
  • Megalomaniac Bubblehead Limited Edition Brut NV
  • Niagara College Teaching Winery, Balance Brut NV
  • Thirty Bench Wine Makers, Sparkling Riesling NV
  • Trius Winery, Showcase Blanc de Blancs NV

Sparkling Wine Award (Cuve Close)

The gold medal was awarded to Greenlane Estate Winery for their Saffron Sparkling Rose 2021

Riesling Award (Semi-Dry)

The gold medal was awarded to Megalomaniac Winery for their Narcissist Riesling 2021

Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon Award

Gold medals were awarded to:

  • Peller Estates Winery, Private Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2021
  • Palatine Hills Estate Winery, Wild & Free Semillon 2021
  • Trius Winery, Showcase Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc 2020

Unoaked Chardonnay Award

The Gold medal was awarded to Big Head Wines Inc. for their 2022 Chardonnay Stone

Oaked Chardonnay Award

Gold medals were awarded to:

  • Exultet Estates, cru X Chardonnay 2018
  • Konzelmann Estate Winery, Chardonnay Barrel Aged 2022

Gewürztraminer Award

The Gold medal was presented to Magnotta Winery for their Gewürztraminer VQA Venture Series 2022

Blanc De Noir Award

The Gold medal was awarded to 180 Estate Winery for their Gamay Rose 2021

Gamay Award

The Gold award was presented to 13th Street Winery for their Gamay 2021

Pinot Noir Award

Gold medals were awarded to:

  • King and Victoria, Pinot Noir 2018
  • Domaine Queylus, 2018 Pinot Noir La Grande Réserve

Cabernet Franc Award

Gold Awards were presented to:

  • Big Head Wines Inc., 2020 Cabernet Franc Select
  • Domaine Queylus, 2020 Cabernet Franc Tradition
  • Peller Estates Winery, Signature Series Cabernet Franc 2020
  • Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery, Ravine Cabernet Franc 2020
  • Thirty Bench Wine Makers, Wild Cask Cabernet Franc 2020

Merlot Award

Gold medals were presented to:

  • Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, Signature Series, Reserve Merlot 2020
  • Niagara College Teaching Winery, Dean’s List Merlot 2020
  • Sprucewood Shores Winery, Merlot Hawk’s Flight Reserve 2020
  • Thirty Bench Wine Makers, Small Lot Merlot 2020

Meritage & Cabernet Blends Award

Gold medals were awarded to:

  • Konzelmann Estate Winery, Legacy Meritage 2020
  • Magnotta Winery, Magnotta Legacy Limited Edition VQA 2018
  • Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery, Reserve Red 2020
  • Three Dog Winery, Big Red 2020

Syrah / Shiraz Award

The Gold medal was awarded to Kacaba Vineyards and Winery for their Premium Series, Terraced Vineyard Syrah 2020

Late Harvest Reds & Whites

Gold medals were presented to:

  • Peller Estates Winery, Private Reserve Late Harvest Vidal 2021
  • Trius Winery, Showcase Late Harvest Vidal 2021

Other Red Wines

A Gold medal was awarded to Strewn Winery for their Select Late Harvest Cabernet 2017

Vinifera Icewine Award

Gold medals were presented to:

  • Inniskillin, Cabernet Franc Icewine 2019
  • Peller Estates Winery, Andrew Peller Riesling Icewine 2019
  • Riverview Cellars Estate Winery, Riesling Icewine 2019

Unassigned Wine

A Gold medal was presented to the London Born Wine Co for their Chardonnay Musque 2020

I did not include the Silver and Bronze medal recipients.  However, the complete list is available at https://winesinniagara.com/2023/06/domaine-queylus-captures-red-wine-of-the-year-award/.

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Italy’s Hidden Gems

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Italy is the largest wine-producing nation in the world and has 20 wine regions.  Unlike other countries where grape growing is largely restricted to specific geographical areas, Italian wine is produced nearly everywhere from the top of the boot to the tip of the toe. 

Most serious wine drinkers are well acquainted with Tuscany’s Chiantis and Piedmont’s Barolos and Barbarescos. However, with so many wine regions, each having its own unique terroir, and with over a thousand indigenous grapes, there are many great quality, lesser known Italian wines.

The next time you are at your favourite wine store, try a bottle from one of these lesser-known wine regions.

Abruzzo

This southern region is referred to as ‘the green lung of Italy’. Historically, the area was known for the bulk wine production of Montepulciano and Trebbiano, but wineries are working on changing that.  There is a native light-skinned white grape varietal called Pecorino, that was once thought to be extinct, but is now gaining popularity thanks to its ability to produce ripe and refreshing wines.       

Calabria

Calabria, which is situated at the toe of the boot, has been producing wine for more than 2,500 years. It’s best known for a regional style called Ciro Rosso, made from the Gaglioppo grape.  It is a powerful, flavourful red with earthy notes and persistent fragrance.

Campania

Located in southern Italy, east of Naples, Campania is primarily home to the Aglianico varietal. It has very high acidity and tannins, similar to Piedmont’s Nebbiolo grape.  Thus, Campania is sometimes referred to as the ‘Nebbiolo of the south’. It produces an earthy, hearty red wine that goes well with fatty meats and spicy sauces, and like its Piedmont counterpart, has tremendous aging potential.

Emilia-Romagna

Emilia-Romagna is one of the oldest wine-producing regions and spans most of central Italy. It’s known for Lambrusco, a sparkling red wine made from the grape of the same name. The wine ranges from dry to sweet, depending on the producer. It has high acidity and notes of berry.

Friuli

Friuli is situated in northeastern Italy between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea.  The region was historically known for its white wines, many of which were created from the area’s Friulano grapes.  However, it is now receiving international attention for its red wines, which are composed of international varietals such as Merlot.

Lake Garda

Lake Garda

Garda, the largest lake in Italy, is in the alpine foothills, midway between Venice and Milan.  There are several small wine regions scattered along its shores, each with its own specialty.  For example, the Bardolino region produces wines from Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella varietals, similar to those grapes of the Valpolicella region.

The Lugana region has developed a reputation for bold complex white wines from locally grown Trebbiano grapes.

Langhe

The Langhe region is found between the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy.  Just like Barolo and Barbaresco, Langhe makes its most acclaimed wines from local Nebbiolo grapes.

Liguria

Liguria is in north-west Italy to the south of Piemonte. The eastern half of the region is home to the famous wine-producing Cinque Terre area, while the western side, Riveria Ligure di Ponente, is known for several highly distinctive wines. Rossese is unique, said to be unlike any other Italian red. It’s been likened to both Dolcetto and Valpolicella and yet boasts its own unique complex character.

Sardinia

Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea.  There are several underrated indigenous wine varietals found there such as Vermentino, Cannonau and Mirto. Wines made from the white grape Vermentino are crisp, acidic and fruity.

The island’s dominant red variety is Cannonau, which is very similar to France’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape.  It has robust fruit and earthy flavours.

Sicily

Sicily is an island off the coast of the tip of Italy’s boot.  Its finest red wines are made from  Nero d’Avola grapes which grow in arid vineyards and produce rich wines with intense flavour.  Similar to Syrah, it has the ability to produce a hearty, fruity and sometimes tannic wine. There are also reds that are produced from the Nerello Mascalese varietal that create elegant, expressive wines.          

Taurasi

In western Italy, south of Umbria is the town of Taurasi.  The local vineyards contain Aglianico, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese grapes which are Italy’s three most distinguished varieties.

Umbria

Umbria is located in the middle of central mainland Italy.  It is bordered by Tuscany to the north and west, Marche to the west and Lazio to the south.  According to some experts, Umbria is home to some of the most undervalued wines in Italy, ranging from crisp, dry Grechetto to bold, ruby red Sagrantino.  Sangiovese grapes are also popular in Umbria.

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Springtime Adventure to Italy

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During a recent 16-day springtime excursion to Italy as part of a tour group, I discovered passionate people, their food and their wine.  I enjoyed homemade soups, pasta, olives and olive oil, mozzarella and parmigiana reggiano cheese, prosciutto, seafood, pizza, risotto, gelato, tiramisu, limoncello and a variety of amazing coffees.

Aperol Spritz

Italy is the home of the “Dolce Vita” sweet life of physical pleasure and self-indulgence. It has the subliminal charm of fine leathers, renaissance art, classical music and of course, great food and wine.

My wife Valerie and I had the wonderful opportunity to travel by bus through the regions of Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, Lazio and Campania where we enjoyed the regional cuisine and wines.

We began our excursion in Veneto, the home of the cities of Venice and Verona where the white sparkling wine Prosecco is enjoyed in numerous cocktails; most notably Aperol Spritz and Bellini.  Aperol Spritz consists of 3 parts Prosecco, 2 parts Aperol and 1 part soda.  It is then garnished with an orange slice before serving.

A classic Bellini consists of 1 1/2 oz. of peach puree, topped off with chilled Prosecco.  It is served in a champagne glass and garnished with a peach slice.  Both drinks are refreshing on a warm sunny day.

The first winery we visited was the Le Fraghe winery near Verona, where we sampled several of their wines. First was Camporengo Garganega, which is straw yellow in colour.  It has a balanced bouquet of floral hints of acacia and mimosa with peach and apple. It has full body flavour.

The second wine, Ròdon Chiaretto di Bardolino, consists of red Corvina and Rondinella grapes. Cherry red with rich purple highlights, Ròdon has fragrant aromas. Notes of wild rose are the first to emerge, followed by nuances of wild strawberry and redcurrant. The wine is crisp and full bodied.  It also had excellent tannins and acidity with a lengthy finish.

Brol Grande Bardolino Classico consists of Corvina and Rondinella grapes.  Brol Grande is a purple-tinged ruby red of medium intensity. Its bouquet is the result of a blend of the fruity essences of sweet-sour cherry and blueberry, along with spicy nuances of cinnamon and black pepper. The one-year barrel time helps the development of the wine. It has a long and slightly salted finish.

All three wines contain Italy’s DOC designation.  They are occasionally available in wine stores in Ontario and Quebec.

Veneto is also the home of Valpolicella and Amarone wines.  Unfortunately we did not have the opportunity to visit one of these wineries.

The second winery we visited was the Fattoria Poggio Alloro winery, in San Gimignano, Tuscany. The name Poggio Alloro means Bay Leaf Hill, and it refers to the bay laurel bushes that grow on the property. The farm is a family business. At the present time it consists of one hundred hectares and it is completely organic. The grape varietals include Vernaccia di San Gimignano (a local grape that grows only in this town), Sangiovese (to produce the famous Chianti wine), Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia and Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Cabernet, and Merlot.

We sampled six wines while we were there, three white and three red.  The white wines included Montecarlo Bianco, which is a blend of 50% Vermentino Toscano and the balance consisting of Vermentino, Roussanne, Sauvignon and Pinot Bianco.  This combination produces a light, clear wine with a straw yellow colour. The aroma is delicate while the taste is dry, delicate and well-balanced.  Montecarlo Bianco has the DOC designation.

The second white was Montecarlo Bianco Otium, which consists of 40% Trebbiano Toscano, 20% Vermentino, 20% Roussanne, 10% Sauvignon and 10% Pinot Bianco.  This wine also contained the DOC designation.

The final white was Incantate Bianco IGT Toscana, which was made totally of Chardonnay grapes. The flavour is tropical and the wine is well balanced.

The first red wine presented was Montecarlo Rosso, which was a blend consisting of 60% Sangiovese, Syrah, Canaiolo, Malvasia and Merlot. It is a light red wine with an aroma that is intense, and the taste is delightfully smooth and dry.  It contains the DOC designation.

The second red was Montecarlo Rosso Otium, a DOC designated wine consisting of 50% Sangiovese, 30% Syrah, 10% Cabernet and 10% Merlot.  It was aged in oak barrels for four months.

The final wine was Incantate Rosso Toscana which was a bold and structured blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Syrah.

There are also 1,500 olive trees on the farm that are utilized to produce extra-virgin olive oil. The olives are completely hand picked each November and then cold pressed to guarantee the superior quality of this product.

The final winery that we attended was the Tenuta Torciano winery, also in the San Gimignano area.  The winery provided a wonderful lunch to accompany the wine tasting but unfortunately the staff did not display the labels of the wines or describe the wines in any detail.  The wines are available to be ordered online but they did not say whether any could be purchased from wine stores within Canada.

One wine that we sampled was Tenuta Torciano Baldassarre “IGT Toscana”. This wine is a blend of Sangiovese Grosso, Cabernet and Merlot. It had a deep ruby red colour which transitions to garnet as it ages.  It has an elegant bouquet. Hints of wood can be perceived amidst the typical herbaceous notes. Its flavour is dry, full and smooth.

Chianti Classico “Doge” DOCG red wine is produced with Sangiovese grapes, which are harvested by hand and then aged for 12 months.

Doge is characterized by an intense ruby red color. The nose contains hints of violet, then enriched with nuances of ripe red fruit, licorice and vanilla. The taste is full and harmonious, with soft tannins.

Tenuta Torciano Chianti Classico Riserva “Godenzio” is made from Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes.  It has a deep ruby red colour with a penetrating bouquet and full and smooth taste.

Overall, many wines produced in Italy are not intended for export but to be consumed as table wine within Italy itself.  These wines are released and drank at a young age, have an abundance of fruit flavour and a slightly lower alcohol level. Examples of these wines include Dolcetto, Montepulciano, Nero d’Avola, Aglianico and Negroamaro.

Unfortunately, being part of a tour, we were at the mercy of the tour company as to which wineries we visited.  On the other hand, we had the opportunity to travel to two cheese factories, a couple of olive farms, a Prosciutto farm and a limoncello producer where we enjoyed experiences we otherwise wouldn’t have.

Sláinte mhaith

Bordeaux’s Left and Right Bank

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

The prestigious Bordeaux wine region is located on the western coast of France. The region is separated into two sub-regions, referred to as the Right Bank and the Left Bank. Each region has its own unique nuances that characterize it from the other.

Photo credit: Decanter.com

The banks refer to the two riverbanks, the land masses on either side of the Gironde Estuary, the place where a river meets the sea. The Gironde Estuary is fed by two rivers, the Dordogne and the Garonne. The Left Bank viticultural region is on the southwest side of the Gironde and the Right Bank is on the northeast side.

The prominent difference between the Left and Right banks is the grape varietal grown.  The Left Bank is famous for its Cabernet Sauvignon while the Right Bank is mainly Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.  The reason for the grape varieties being different is due to the type of soil. The Left Bank is characterized by gravelly soils while the Right Bank is mainly clay soils.

The varietals grown determines the difference in style of wine produced.  The Left Bank’s Cabernet Sauvignon-based blends tend to be more structured, powerful and have a higher presence of tannins, whereas the Right Bank’s Merlot-dominant blends tend to be softer and silkier.  Personally, I am a fan of the wines from the Right Bank.

The most complicated difference between the Left and Right Banks is the way in which the wine is classified. For a detailed explanation of the classification methods see my post, France’s Cru Levels from March 18th.

The most notable vineyards on the Left Bank include Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion, Château Lafite, and Château Mouton Rothschild.  Estates on the Right Bank include Château Cheval Blanc, Château Angélus, Château Pavie and Pétrus.

Sláinte mhaith