Varietals

2024 All Canadian Wine Championships

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / 2 Comments

The All Canadian Wine Championships (ACWC) were held earlier this month. It is open to all Canadian licensed wineries, cideries and meaderies and content must be grown and made in Canada. This year there were 995 entries submitted by 173 wineries.

The panel of judges consisted of wine writers, sommeliers, and professional wine judges from the Wine Judges of Ontario. There were 10 judges from Ontario, 2 from Alberta and 1 from each of Quebec and New Brunswick.

The 2024 trophy winners were as follows:

The Best Sparkling Wine of the Year was presented to British Columbia’s (BC) Bench 1775 Winery, for their 2020 Blanc de Blanc ($39.75 CDN).

The Best Red Wine of the Year was BC’s Sunrock Vineyard’s 2021 Shiraz ($40.24 CDN).

The Best White Wine of the Year was awarded to BC’s Van Westen Vineyards, for their 2022 Viscous ($27.40 CDN).

The Best Dessert Wine of the Year was Quebec’s Vignoble du Marathonien, for their 2021 Vin de glace ($50.00 CDN).

The Best Rosé Wine of the Year was awarded to yet another BC winery, Hester Creek Estate Winery, for their 2023 Rosé Noir ($32.19 CDN).

The Best Fruit Wine of the Year was presented to another BC winery, Maan Farms Winery, for their N/V Raspberry Dessert ($29.99 CDN).

The Best Cider of the Year was Nova Scotia’s Domaine de Grand Pré, for their N/V Vintage Sparkling Cider ($29.00 CDN).

The Best Mead of the Year was presented to Manitoba’s Shrugging Doctor Beverage Co, for their N/V Apple Cinnamon Mead ($18.47 CDN).

Double Gold, Gold, Silver and Bronze medals may be awarded in each category. Double Gold and Gold medals were presented to the following participants:

Sparkling Wine-Traditional Method

Gold

  • Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2021 Lush Sparkling Rosé – $57.80
  • Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2020 Blanc de Franc – $63.80
  • Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery, ON – N/V Brut – $44.80

Sparkling Wine–Charmat Method

Double Gold

  • Bella Terra Vineyards, ON – N/V Sparkling Rose – $24.95

Gold

  • Three Dog Winery, ON – 2023 Debut Sparkling – $27.80
  • Harbour Estates, ON – 2023 Sparkling Riesling – $25.00

Sparkling Wine–Frizzante Method

Double Gold

  • Planters Ridge Winery, NS – 2022 SEK – $22.43

Gold

  • Jost Vineyards, NS – N/V Luvo Sparkling White – $5.89

Chardonnay, Unoaked

Double Gold

  • Calamus Estate Winery, ON – 2023 Unoaked Chardonnay – $18.95

Gold

  • Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2023 Select Series Unoaked Chardonnay – $15.95

Chardonnay Under $35.00

Double Gold

  • Wending Home, ON – 2021 Chardonnay Estate Vineyards – $34.95

Gold

  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2022 Barrel Aged Chardonnay – $27.05
  • Solvero Wines, BC – 2022 Chardonnay – $34.60
  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2020 G. Marquis Chardonnay VQA – The Silver Line – $19.75

Chardonnay Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Nk’Mip Cellars BC – 2022 Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay – $41.39

Gold

  • Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2022 Premium Series Barrel Fermented Chardonnay – $49.95
  • SpearHead Winery, BC – 2022 Chardonnay Clone 95 – $41.40

Riesling Dry

Double Gold 

  • Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery, BC – 2023 Riesling Dry – $28.74

Gold

  • Broken Stone Winery, ON – 2023 Riesling – $21.75

Riesling Off Dry

Gold

  • Gaspereau Vineyards, NS – 2023 Riesling – $23.79
  • Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery, ON – 2020 Riesling Loved By Lu – $18.75

Sauvignon Blanc

Double Gold

  • Dirty Laundry Vineyard, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $25.29

Gold

  • River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $27.49
  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $27.60

Gewürztraminer

Double Gold

  • Wild Goose Vineyards, BC – 2023 Gewürztraminer – $19.99

Gold

  • Colchester Ridge Estate Winery, ON – 2022 Gewürztraminer – $20.75
  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Gewürztraminer – $21.80

Pinot Gris Style

Double Gold

  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Pinot Gris – $26.45

Gold

  • Hillside Winery & Bistro, BC – 2023 Unoaked Pinot Gris – $25.00
  • River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Gris – $27.49
  • Villa Romana Estate Winery, ON – 2023 Pinotino – $24.95

Pinot Grigio Style

Double Gold

  • Kismet Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Grigio – $26.44

Gold

  • Three Dog Winery, ON – 2023 Pinot Grigio – $19.75
  • Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2023 Okanagan Estate Pinot Grigio – $20.69

Viognier

Double Gold

  • Hester Creek Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Viognier – $27.59

Gold

  • Bordertown Vineyard & Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Viognier – $21.90

Other Single Vitis Vinifera Whites

Double Gold

  • Scorched Earth Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Noir Blanc – $22.95

Gold

  • Wild Goose Vineyards, BC – 2023 Pinot Blanc – $21.99
  • Bonamici Cellars Ltd., BC – 2022 Observatory Gruner Veltliner – $28.74

White Vitis Vinifera Blends

Double Gold

Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2022 White Mer’r’iym – $41.39

Gold

  • Hillside Winery & Bistro, BC – 2023 Chef’s Whites – $35.00
  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Valerie – $26.45
  • River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Splash – $26.34

Single White Hybrids

Double Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2023 Living Land Frontenac Gris – $25.29

Gold

  • Planters Ridge Winery, NS – 2022 L’Acadie – $18.52
  • Valley of the Springs, BC – 2023 Epicure – $25.30

White Hybrid Blends

Double Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2023 Hands Up White – $22.99

Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Dead End Skrewd – $25.00

Pet Nat

Double Gold

  • Bench 1775, BC – 2022 Blanc de Blanc Ancestral – $39.99

Gold

  • Trail Estate Winery, ON – 2022 White Pét Nat – $36.00

Orange Wines

Double Gold

  • Byland Estate Winery, ON – 2021 Skin Fermented White Chardonnay – $28.00

Gold

  • Last House Vineyard, ON – 2021 Electrum – $29.00

Rosés Dry

Gold

  • Creekside Estate Winery Ltd., ON – 2023 Rosé – $15.95
  • Chaberton Estate WInery, BC – 2023 La Fleur de Chaberton – $27.55
  • Lakeview Wine Co., ON – N/V 20 Bees Rosé – $13.95

Rosés Off Dry

Double Gold

  • Gaspereau Vineyards, NS – 2022 Rosé – $23.79

Gold

  • Richibucto River Wine Estate, NB – 2020 Camrose – $16.63
  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Chaberton Pink – $21.80
  • Three Sisters Winery, BC – 2023 Rosé – $25.00

Cabernet Sauvignon Under $35

Double Gold

  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon – $31.00

Gold

  • Paglione Estate Winery, ON – 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – $21.95

Cabernet Sauvignon Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Colio Estate Wines, ON – 2020 Small Lot Series Cabernet Sauvignon – $40.00

Gold

  • Kismet Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – $68.99

Merlot Under $35

Double Gold

  • Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery, BC – 2020 Merlot – $33.34

Gold

  • Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2021 Winemaker’s Merlot – $34.49
  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2020 Merlot – $32.20

Merlot Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Wesbert Winery, BC – 2021 Merlot – $45.94

Gold

  • Priest Creek Family Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Merlot – $52.90
  • De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2021 Merlot – $59.80

Pinot Noir Under $35

Double Gold

  • The Grange of Prince Edward, ON – 2022 County Pinot Noir – $34.00

Gold

  • Cherry Point Estate Wines, BC – 2022 Pinot Noir – $32.90
  • Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2022 Okanagan Estate Pinot Noir – $25.29

Pinot Noir Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Wending Home, ON – 2020 “Up Above” Pinot Noir – $42.95

Gold

  • Solvero Wines, BC – 2020 Pinot Noir – $40.35
  • SpearHead Winery, BC – 2022 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley – $41.40

Cabernet Franc Under $35

Double Gold

  • Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2022 Okanagan Estate Cabernet Franc – $29.89

Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Living Land Cabernet Franc – $31.04
  • Three Sisters Winery, BC – 2022 Cabernet Franc – $30.00

Cabernet Franc Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Watchful Eye Winery, ON – 2021 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $41.95

Gold

  • Privato Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2022 Cabernet Franc – $40.24
  • Bordertown Vineyard & Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $49.90

Bordeaux Blends Under $35

Double Gold

  • Bench 1775, BC – 2021 Groove –  $22.75

Gold

  • Clos du Soleil Winery, BC – 2021 Celestiale – $34.39
  • Sunrock, BC – 2020 Red Meritage – $34.49
  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Meritage Gran Riserva -$ 31.95

Bordeaux Blends Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Moraine Winery, BC – 2021 Meritage – $42.00

Gold

  • Vanessa Vineyard Estate Winery Inc., BC – 2019 Right Bank – $57.49
  • Colio Estate Wines, ON – 2020 Small Lot Series Meritage – $40.00
  • Hainle Vyds Estate Winery Ltd., BC – 2022 Hainle’s Red Cuvee – $40.24

Syrah/Shiraz Under $35

Double Gold

  • Oxley Estate Winery, ON – 2020 Syrah Reserve – $32.95

Gold

  • Terralux Estate Winery, BC – 2018 Syrah – $34.99

Syrah/Shiraz Over $35.00

Gold

  • Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2020 Qwam Qwmt Syrah – $49.44
  • Moon Curser Vineyards, BC – 2022 Syrah – $37.94

Single Red Hybrids

Double Gold

  • Potter Settlement Artisan Winery, ON – 2020 Frontenac Rouge – $35.00

Gold

  • Front Road Cellars, ON – 2022 Marquette Canadian Oak – $23.95
  • Magnetic Hill Winery, NB – 2023 Terroir Generator TP 1-1-12 – $30.00

Red Hybrid Blends

Double Gold

  • Jost Vineyards, NS – N/V Luvo Simply Red – $5.89   

Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Hands Up Red – $25.29
  • De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2023 De Simone Red – $24.80

Other Single Red Vitis Vinifera

Double Gold

  • Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2022 King’s Ransom Touriga Nacional – $74.75

Gold

  • Bonamici Cellars Ltd., BC – 2022 Sangiovese – $36.80

Other Red Vitis Vinifera Blends

Double Gold

  • Hester Creek Estate Winery, BC – 2022 GSM – $39.19

Gold

  • Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2023 Select Series Cabernet – $15.95
  • Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2021 Winemaker’s Talon – $37.99

Marechal Foch

Double Gold

  • Alderlea Vineyards,BC – 2022 Clarinet – $27.60

Gold

  • Skimmerhorn Winery, BC – 2022 Estate Reserve Foch – $31.00

Malbec

Double Gold

  • Nostalgia Wines Inc., BC – 2020 Malbec – $42.00

Gold

  • Moon Curser Vineyards, BC – 2022 Malbec – $43.69

Gamay

Double Gold

Deep Roots Winery, BC – 2022 Reserve Gamay – $34.90

Gold

  • Deep Roots Winery, BC – 2022 Gamay – $25.90
  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Living Land Gamay – $33.34

Appassimento Style

Double Gold

  • De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2019 Stallion – $154.80              

Gold

  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2020 Enotrium Gran Riserva – $59.75

FRUIT WINES

Soft Fruit Dry

Double Gold

  • Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – 2015 Black Currant – $30.00

Gold

  • Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – N/V Red Raspberry & Red Currant – $20.00

Soft Fruit Off-Dry

Double Gold

  • Maan Farms Winery, BC – 2022 Raspberry Table – $23.08

Gold

  • Maan Farms Winery, BC – 2023 Strawberry Rhubarb – $22.51
  • Applewood Farm Winery, ON – 2021 Trio – $18.00

Soft Fruit Dessert

Gold

  • Maan Farms Winery, BC – N/V Blackberry Dessert – $29.99

Tree Fruit Dry

Double Gold

  • Muskoka Lakes Winery, ON – 2022 Georgian Bay Rose – $18.75

Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Speachless White Peach – $22.00

Tree Fruit Off Dry

Double Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Cherysh Cherry Rose – $22.00

Gold

  • Shrugging Doctor Beverage Co., MB – 2022 Carmine Jewel Cherry Wine – $21.99

Tree Fruit Dessert

Double Gold

  • Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – 2019 Apple – $20.00

Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Pomme Desiree Iced Apple – $28.00

Fruit Sparkling

Double Gold

  • Krause Berry Farms and Estate Winery, BC – N/V Strawberry Sparkling – $27.00

Gold

  • Coopérative Forestière du Nord Ouest Ltée., NB – N/V Noaska Jazzy Sparkling Red –  $18.90

Fruit Fortifieds

Double Gold

  • La Vallée de la Framboise Inc., QC – N/V Douce Anna – $20.00

Gold

  • La Vallée de la Framboise Inc., QC – N/V Le Fabuleux – $20.00

DESSERT WINES

Late Harvests

Double Gold

  • Vignoble du Marathonien, QC – 2021 Vendange tardive sélective – $28.00

Gold

  • Bench 1775, BC – 2022 Paradise Ranch Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc Semillon – $29.75

White Icewines (Riesling, Vidal, Other)

Gold

  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Riesling Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition  – $39.95
  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2021 Vidal Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition –       $34.75

Red Icewines

Double Gold

  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Cabernet Franc Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition – $44.95

Gold

  • Lakeview Wine Co., ON – 2022 Lakeview Wine Co. Cabernet Franc Icewine – $60.00

Grape Fortified

Double Gold

  • Moraine Winery, BC – 2021 O’Port – $45.00

Gold    

  • Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2017 The Crown – $45.99

The complete listing of this year’s results is available from the All Canadian Wine Championships website at https://allcanadianwinechampionships.com/acwc-2024-results

Sláinte mhaith

Info Seminar or Infomercial?

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An American wine club operator from Napa Valley, California had arranged for a group of his members to take part on our recent river cruise aboard the Scenic Sapphire, through the Burgundy and Rhône wine regions. The group excursion included the CEO of Cuvaison Estate Wines of Napa, California, Dan Zepponi.

While sailing down the Rhône River between ports, Zepponi treated the passengers to two seminars; the first was an exploration of Chardonnay wine. The presentation included tastings of two different Chardonnays from Cuvaison which were compared to two French Chardonnays that are regularly served as part of dinner service on the ship.

The tastings were conducted as a head-to-head comparison. First, his unoaked Methibiton Chardonnay, was compared to an unnamed, unoaked French wine. The second comparison was between two oaked Chardonnays, Coeurtina from his winery against a second unidentified French.

In each comparison I found the flavours of the Napa wines to be extremely close to the French, though to me the French was slightly more mellow and smoother. The Cuvaison wines are priced at $70 US each and are only available directly from the winery.  In comparison, the ships wines would have an equivalent price of approximately $15 – $20 US per bottle.

During the second seminar Zepponi discussed micro-lots as they pertain to the wine industry. When a winery wants to produce a type of wine but does not have enough of the varietal in their own vineyard they may purchase the varietal from another grape grower.   The purchased grapes are then used to make a specific wine exclusively from that purchased micro-lot. This allows the winemaker to better control the grapes being used and the wine produced, in a similar manner that would be done if the vintner was using their own estate grown grapes.

Two taste comparisons were conducted, the first was with Cuvaison’s 2022 En Cigar Chardonnay Blanc and the ship’s undisclosed Sauvignon Blanc house wine. The second comparison was conducted using their 2022 Fiddlestix Pinot Noir and an undescribed French Pinot Noir. I favoured the French Sauvignon Blanc over the Cuvaison but did find Cuvaison’s Pinot to be smoother and less fresh that the French Pinot. Once again though, the price between the American and French wines was significantly different – $70 US for both Cuvaison’s versus under $20 US for the French wines.

Unfortunately, the two seminars lacked substance and honesty as they were actually marketing presentations for Cuvaison wines. Zepponi would have had more credibility in my eyes if he had presented his talks as being an introduction to Cuvaison wines. There was no value in conducting taste comparisons with wines that are not even identified by name, let alone any information about where or how the wines were produced. He should have simply talked about how his wines are produced.

Based on information presented about the various Cuvaison wines, they are producing decent wines at a reasonable price point. However, the feeble attempt at conducting product comparisons was an insult to the intelligence of the ship’s passengers.

Sláinte mhaith

The Châteauneuf-du-Pape District of France

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While on a river cruise that was part of my recent trip to France, I overheard someone say that Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a famous French winery. Well, that is not exactly true. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a French Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) located around the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Rhône wine region in southeastern France. It is one of the most renowned appellations of the southern part in the Rhône Valley, and its vineyards are located around Châteauneuf-du-Pape and in the neighboring villages of Bédarrides, Courthézon and Sorgues, between Avignon and Orange. The region covers more than 3,200 hectares or 32 square kilometres and produces over 110,000 hectolitres of wine each year.

The primary grape grown in the district is Grenache, but Cinsault, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Muscadine, Syrah, Terret noir, Vaccarèse, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette blanche, Picardan, Roussanne, and Picpoul are also cultivated.

The terroir consists of white limestone. The stones absorb the heat of the sun and transfers it to the roots of the vines. The stones also help with allowing rain to penetrate the roots. This is critical since temperatures rise to about 45 degrees Celsius in the summer and irrigation is not permitted.

The harvest takes place from late August to early September. There are 323 vineyards in the district, all of which are family operated companies. Given the conditions, production yields are low and this is reflected in the price at your local wine store. However, the higher cost does not deter buyers as some wineries are selling their wines two years in advance.

Selections at Maison Bouachon

I visited Maison Bouachon winery, which has been in operation since 1898. The vines on the estate generally range from 80 to 100 years in age. Wine production is completed following the methods and rules established by the AOC.

While there I sampled three of their wines, 2023 Côtes du Rhône white, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021 and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Special Edition. My personal favourite was the Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021, which is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre grapes. I purchased a bottle which was later enjoyed by my wife and me. Unfortunately, like so many of the French wineries, Maison Bouachon wines are not available outside of France. Such a pity.

Sláinte mhaith

The Beaujolais Wine District

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My wife and I recently returned from an excursion to France, which included exploration of several wine regions including the Beaujolais district of Burgundy. Beaujolais is a French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) wine, generally made from Gamay grapes.  The grapes are thin skinned and are low in tannins.

The soil (terroir) consists of granite, schist, clay and sandstone. The vines are pruned using the goblet method, which is mainly practiced in the Mediterranean regions because having a foot close to the ground shelters the vine from the wind and the falling vegetation protects the grapes from the sun. This method of pruning only allows 3 to 5 branches to be kept on the vine. The branches end with a spur of 3 or 4 buds.

Goblet pruning is a drought-resistant and berry-protected method but prohibits the use of mechanized harvesting methods. Economically, the reduction in yields can be significant. The cost of production can be high due to an increased need for labour and the drop in production.

Climate change has been presenting a variety of challenges during recent years. Netting has had to be installed to protect the grapes from summertime hailstorms that have been regularly occurring since 2007. Very wet spring seasons, like this year, are threatening to delay the start of the growing season, thus reducing the yield potential and increasing the risk of mold on the vines.

The wines produced in the Beaujolais district include Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, cru Beaujolais and Beaujolais Nouveau. The region also produces a small amount of Chardonnay (about 4%) but none of that wine is sold outside of France.

Isabelle Brossard

We visited Château de Pravins, a 12th century winery. The current owners acquired the winery in 1941. The purchaser was Joseph Mathieu, whose descendant, Isabelle Brossard, operates the winery today. It is a biodynamic winery (uses organic processes) that expands across 26 hectares. The grapes are still crushed by feet, but pipes and pumps are also now used. One kilo of grapes is required to produce a single bottle of wine.  The AOC limits the Beaujolais wineries from producing any more than 6,000 litres of wine per hectare and allows only cement vats to be used in the production process.

While there we sampled three red wines, l’argile ardente No 2, les moraines, and l’argile ardente. I found all tree wines to be as equally as nice.

Based on the slow soggy start to the 2024 growing season, don’t be surprised if the 2024 vintage of Beaujolais wine is limited and thus more expensive than some previous years.

Sláinte mhaith

Ancient Roman Grapes

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Historically, the Romans are famous for their love of wine.  It is ironic that the wine Roman Emperors consumed was nothing like the wonderfully delicious wines that the world enjoys today.  During Roman times, what was referred to as wine was actually vinegar with honey and spices added, or sometimes garlic. Despite this, it was considered very good compared to other wines of the time.

Photo credit: disholicioussite.blog

Recently, three historic, yet little-known indigenous grape varieties, Bellone, Nero Buono and Cesanese are making a comeback in Italy’s ever changing wine market.

Bellone

Bellone is an ancient white grape variety that is referred to as ‘uva pantastica or pane d’uva’, meaning a ‘grape as good as bread’ or a ‘grape that goes well with bread’, depending on the source. The white grape often brings bright, fruity characteristics of stone fruit, melon and citrus fruits. Some bottles also have flavours of herbs, tropical fruits and toast.  It still grows on the original roots of ancient times.

Casale del Giglio wine estate, located 50 kilometres south of Rome, has spent years reintroducing the native grapes of Lazio. In 2022, its work was recognized by Gambero Rosso magazine when the winery’s Anthium Bellone, which is produced using ungrafted vines, was awarded the coveted Italian award for wine excellence, Tre Bicchieri.

Nero Buono

The black or red grape variety, Nero Buono, almost exclusively grows in the volcanic soil of Monte Lepini. Insects do not thrive in its cool, windy climate, thus alleviating one risk to this finicky grape. The deeply coloured wine brings flavours of dark-skinned fruits, rhubarb and black pepper.

Nero Buono is difficult to grow so there are no clones. It is very wild and produces many leaves which must be thinned out several times per year.  The berries are tight and close together making the vines susceptible to disease.

Producers are committed to supporting native grape production, even when there is minimal demand for the grapes.  Winemaker Marco Carpineti now makes wine only with sustainably grown fruit that is native to the area. Today Carpineti is one of the best-known winemakers of Lazio. He devotes 25 percent of his production to Nero Buono and Bellone-based sparkling wine made in the traditional method.

Cesanese

Originally called Latium, the Lazio region of Italy borders Tuscany to the north, Abruzzo to the east, Umbria to the northeast and Campania to the south. Rome is in this region, making it the primary winemaking region of the Roman Empire.

Cesanese is the signature red wine of Lazio.  Cesanese refers to one of two sub-varieties: Cesanese Comune or Cesanese di Affile. Both are used to make high-quality wines, which were highly prized in ancient times. There are three Cesanese appellations which include Cesanese del Piglio DOCG, Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC and Cesanese di Affile DOC. All are within a 50-kilometer vicinity.

Cesanese is a red wine that contains flavours of dark-skinned berries, herbs, cedar and cooking spices. It’s ruby in colour and has high acidity and tannin, with the ability to age for a long time.

The Campania Region

Modern winemaking in Campania, a southern region referred to as ‘the ankle of the boot’, is closely identified with the Mastroberardino family, specialists in the wines of ancient times. The family’s involvement in winemaking can be traced back to the late 1500s.  However, today, brothers Antonio and Walter, along with sons Piero and Carlo, run the winery which is 60 kilometres northeast of Naples.

The family’s extensive library of ancient viticulture books has enabled the Mastroberardinos to grow grapes that were popular centuries ago.

Sláinte mhaith

Barbaresco vs. Barolo

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I recently enjoyed a bottle of Barolo with dinner one night followed by a Barbaresco the following night. Having the two bottles back-to-back reminded me how different the two wines are despite being made from the same Nebbiolo grapes and being produced in the Piedmont region of Italy.

Photo credit: pinterest.co.kr

Production of both Barolo and Barbaresco occur in the Langhe hills near the town of Alba. The Barbaresco zone is northeast and the Barolo zone is southeast of the town.  In accordance with Italy’s governing body, the DOCG (denominazione di origine protetta or Denomination of Controlled Origin.) Barolo may only be produced in the comuni or townships of La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo and Monforte d’Alba. Barbaresco wine is produced in Treiso, Neive, San Rocco Seno d’Elvio and Barbaresco.

There are differences in the two sub-regions. The Barolo area is located at a slightly higher altitude and has more south-facing vineyard exposures. This results in slower ripening grapes than those of the Barbaresco area to the north. The northern region it is warmer, due to the lower altitudes and warm sea winds. As a result, the grapes ripen faster.

The soils of the two area are different as well. The soils of Barbaresco are slightly sandier, less compact, and have more nutrients. As a result, the wines have a softer character. The firmer soils of Barolo create bolder, more tannic wines.

According to DOCG regulations, Barbaresco must be aged a minimum of 26 months, with at least 9 of those months in oak. Barbaresco Riserva must be aged a minimum of 50 months with at least 9 months in oak.

Barolo wines are aged a minimum of 38 months, with 18 months being in oak. Barolo Riserva needs to age 60 months with 18 months in oak. The longer aging requirements are necessary because of the more intense tannins that are in Barolo wines.

When it comes to flavour, Barolo is the bigger, bolder and more structured. It may have an array of aromas of plums, sour cherries, tobacco or truffles.

Barbaresco is generally a lighter wine with flavours of ripe fruit. Barbaresco is strongly influenced by the soil, vineyard location and the winemaker’s techniques.

As to which wine is better, that is up to you to decide.  Personally, I like both equally. My preference is determined in the moment, whether it be a dinner pairing or simply my mood.

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Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio

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Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are made from the same grape and are obviously both white wines, but it can be argued that the similarity ends there.

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Pinot Gris originates in France and is believed to be a mutation of Pinot Noir. It’s mainly grown in the Alsace region of France. The grape is thought to have reached Italy during the 1300s where the variety was called Pinot Grigio.  The Italian version is primarily grown in the Alto Adige region of northwestern Italy.

Gris is the French word for gray and grigio is gray in Italian. The gray describes the grayish-purple skin of the grapes.

Both Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio will appear on wines produced in countries other than France or Italy. There is an abundance of Pinot Gris grapes produced in countries such as Canada, the United States, Australia and New Zealand.

So what determines why some are labelled Pinot Gris while others are referred to as Pinot Grigio? Winemakers have the choice of selecting which name they use. There is no hard and fast rule, however most will base the name on the style of the wine they produce. You can usually tell the style by the colour. Pinot Gris style wines are typically darker and more yellow in colour, whereas Pinot Grigio wines are very light yellow, almost clear.

Pinot Gris wines are rich, full-bodied and accompanied by higher alcohol content. Made with fully ripe grapes that are occasionally barrel fermented, Pinot Gris often has extra sweetness and a creamy feel. The darker grape skins tend to produce a golden colour.

By contrast, Pinot Grigio is harvested early, resulting in a light-bodied, crisper wine with a lower level of alcohol. The aromas are primarily of fresh fruit and florals.

Pinot Gris embodies complex flavours such as cinnamon and lemon, with a tingly aftertaste. Late harvest French-style Pinot Gris is a rather sweet wine. This is due to noble rot, which creates honeylike undertones.

Pinot Grigio tends to be a lighter, crisp, dry style of wine with flavours of citrus and green apple, pear, lime and lemon, with a refreshing spark of acidity. Some Italian-style Grigio wines also have a floral aroma of honeysuckle.

The Pinot Gris style pairs well with roast pork, creamy pasta, and dense cheeses like Comté or Gruyère, seared scallops, or creamy mushroom risotto. Off-dry versions go well with spicy Asian or Indian dishes like chicken tikka masala or Thai green curry.

The lighter Pinot Grigio is a great apéritif but, also goes well with grilled shrimp, salads or fruit platters and sushi.

Now it is up to you to decide whether you prefer Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio.

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Sauternes Wine

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Sauternes is a sweet wine from France’s Bordeaux region.  It is made from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes that have been affected by Botrytis cinerea, also known as noble rot. Sauternes is one of the few wine regions where infection with noble rot is a frequent occurrence. The noble rot causes the grapes to partially shrivel like raisins, resulting in concentrated and distinctively flavoured wines.

Sauternes is a full-bodied, sweet, late-harvest white wine that is an exceptional dessert wine. It is well complimented by aging in oak barrels and will keep for several decades.

Wine production is not consistent from one year to the next as harvests vary widely.  The wines produced from Sauternes can be very expensive, largely due to the very high cost of production.

Sauternes are characterized by sweetness with the zest of acidity. Some common flavour notes include apricot, butterscotch, caramel, coconut, mango, marmalade and citrus, as well as honeysuckle and toasted baking spices. The finish may remain on the palate for several minutes. A Sauternes typically starts out with a golden yellow colour that darkens as it ages.

Most Sauternes are sold in half bottles of 375 ml. The wines are typically served chilled at 10 °C, but wines older than 15 years are often served a few degrees warmer.

Sauternes is a great dessert wine but it may also be served with several food pairings. Consider cheesecake of all kinds, almond tart, lemon tart, meringues and custards. As well, it may be served along side something savory such as Roquefort or Livarot cheese and foie gras or terrine with caramelized onions.  Mains such as herb-roasted poultry or spicy Asian fare are recommended as well.

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Right and Left Bank Bordeaux Wines

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Bordeaux; most people have heard of this French wine region, which is one of the most famous Old World wine regions, but many people don’t understand it. To begin with, Bordeaux is divided into two sections, referred to as the Left Bank and the Right Bank. The banks refer to the left (west)and right (east) bank of the Gironde Estuary and Garonne River.

The Left and Right banks have significantly different terroirs. A terroir is the natural environment in which a particular wine is produced, including factors such as the soil, topography, and climate.  

The soil is rockier on the Left Bank. It is packed with gravel and deep deposits of limestone which serves to provide more character and potential quality in the wine. This is why Left Bank wines are considered prime candidates for aging, while Right Bank wines are generally thought to be smoother and more drinkable at the time they are released for sale.

This is not to suggest that Right Bank wines are simple and boring. With limestone closer to the surface and less gravel for the vine roots to contend with, the wines of the Right Bank don’t lack character; it’s just that they possess a different kind of character.

When it comes to the grape varietals grown, because of the differences in the terroir between the Left and Right Bank, each supports its own type of grape. As a result, this is often the best way to distinguish between a Left and Right Bank Bordeaux, as the label will not often tell you. Left Bank wines are mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a smaller portion of Merlot. The Right Bank wines are dominated by Merlot balanced by a smaller proportion of Cabernet.

The Cabernet dominated Left Bank wines tend to be higher in tannin, thus the reason why they age well. Aging the wine helps to mellow out the tannins and integrate the flavors of the wine. Merlot-based Right Bank wines are generally smoother, with softer fruit flavours as tannins are not as dominating.

The last comparison is between the wineries or chateaux themselves. These are the castle-like structures that appear on many of the Bordeaux wine labels.  Generally, the Left Bank chateaux have larger vineyards than those of the Right Bank. Left Bank vineyards are on average 5o to 80 hectares in size versus those of the Right Bank, which only have a maximum of about 30 hectares. However, this is only a fun-fact as vineyard size really has no impact on the quality or character of the wine. Arguably the most renown chateaux include Chateau Margaux, Lafite, and Mouton Rothschild on the Left Bank and Petrus and Cheval Blanc from the Right Bank.

So, which wines are better?  Neither. If you are looking for a wine to enjoy with dinner tonight, a Right Bank wine is probably the better choice, whereas if you are looking for a wine to age and appreciate in the future, you will find that a Left Bank wine will improve with age and provide a delightfully satisfying experience when it is uncorked in a few years’ time.

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Wine and Pasta

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Wine and Pasta

Winter is a time for comfort food and one of my favourite comfort foods is pasta. When it comes to pairing a wine with pasta, the deciding factor should be the accompanying sauce, not the pasta itself because after all, pasta by itself does not have a great deal of flavour.

Photo credit: finewinemaster.com

Tomato-Based Pasta

Tomato-based sauces are high in acid and are often blended with beef or pork. Because of the acidity in tomatoes, a dry, medium-bodied red wine is recommended. Examples of red, medium-weight wines include:

  • Chianti
  • Grenache
  • Nero d’Avola
  • Primitivo
  • Rhône Blends
  • Sangiovese
  • Zinfandel

Cheese Pasta

There are a wide range of red as well as white wines that will pair well with cheese sauces. You shouldn’t feel restricted to serving just white wine with white cheese pasta. An oaked white wine will have a buttery character that will compliment the creamy sauce. Examples include an oaked Trebbiano or Chardonnay. Here are a couple of white wine options to consider:

  • Oaked Chardonnay
  • Oaked Trebbiano

Also, lighter more floral red wines will also pair well with intense hard-cheese pasta, especially if there are mushrooms or root vegetables in the sauce.   Red wine options include:

  • Chianti
  • Nebbiolo
  • Pinot Noir
  • Sangiovese

Seafood Pasta

Light-bodied white wines are the preferred pairing choice for seafood pasta. These wines will be relatively acidic, thus a good balance for creamy white sauces and fatty seafood, such as scallops, shrimp, oysters or mussels. White wine options include:

  • Chenin Blanc
  • Grenache Blanc
  • Pinot Gris / Pinot Grigio
  • Riesling
  • Sauvignon Blanc

For seafood pasta that is cooked in a tomato-based sauce, light body red wines or Rosé are a good option. Red wine options include:

  • Pinot Noir
  • Malbec

Pesto Pasta

Whether you are serving the traditional pine nut and basil pesto or another type of pesto, the focus should be on matching the green, whether it be parsley, cilantro, mint, etc. which is the centerpiece of the dish. For the most part, herbaceous wines are said to be best suited when serving pesto pasta. Herbaceous wines are those wines that have aromas and flavours like herbs such as mint, vegetables such as asparagus, freshly cut grass or tomato leaves. Wines considered to be herbaceous include:

  • Grüner Veltliner
  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Cabernet Sauvignon

Primavera (Vegetable) Pasta

Spring onions, garlic ramps, artichoke hearts and broccolini are among the choices on which to base primavera. The objective is to highlight the springy freshness of the vegetables; thus, it is often best paired with a light-bodied white wine with lemony and floral notes. However, if the pasta has major vegetable intensity, it needs to be matched with an equally savory white wine. White sauce wine options include:

  • Pinot Gris / Pinot Grigio
  • Riesling
  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Vermentino

If tomatoes are a major component of the primavera, a light-bodied acidic red wine would be a better choice. Tomato sauce wine options include:

  • Cabernet Franc
  • Pinot Noir
  • Rosé

No matter which type of pasta you fancy, one of the corresponding wine options will compliment your meal.

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