Varietals

Sugar in Wine

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As the population ages and our good health versus sugar becoming a concern, wine lovers are becoming more troubled about whether they can reduce their sugar intake and still enjoy wine. As I have stated before, there continue to be many health benefits from wine and many are naturally low in sugar.

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Wine contains natural sugar that comes from the grapes. The varietal and climate that it is grown in determine the amount of sugar in the wine. Grapes produced in warm climates tend to generate more sugar, which in turn leads to wines with a higher alcohol content. In comparison, grapes from cooler climates do not ripen as quickly or as much and therefore generate less sugar and lower levels of alcohol. Thus, a single grape varietal can produce wine with differing levels of sugar and alcohol, depending on where it is grown.

Winemakers can also impact sugar levels through the making of the wine. If the fermentation process is stopped before the yeast has converted all the sugars into alcohol, the wine will be higher in residual sugar.

High-sugar wines also result when the grapes are left on the vine for a longer period before harvesting. The resulting wines are often referred to as “Late Harvest” wines. Another example of grapes being left on the vine for an extended period making it very sweet is “Icewine”.

Because no wine is alcohol free, it can never be completely sugar free. However, be sure to avoid less-expensive, mass-produced wines as these are known to be higher in residual sugars. These cheaper wineries often utilize tricks such as adding artificial acids to help balance overly sweet wines or adding artificial sugars to add balance to overly sour grapes.

Instead, opt for wines made in small, high-quality wineries that don’t intervene with the natural process of the grapes. Make sure they focus on traditional winemaking techniques. It is best to look for organic, biodynamic and natural wines.

Fundamentally, the dryer a wine, the less sugar it contains. Dry wines have lower levels of sugar, ranging from 1 to 3 grams per litre of wine or between 0.9 to 2 grams per 150 ml or 5 oz glass.

Dry white wine options include:

  • Muscadet (bone dry)
  • Sauvignon Blanc (dry)
  • Chablis (bone dry)
  • Chardonnay (dry)
  • Grenache Blac (bone dry)
  • Pinot Gris (dry)
  • Pinot Grigio (bone dry)
  • Chenin Blanc (dry)
  • Viognier (dry)
  • Dry Riesling (dry)
  • Moscato

Dry red wine options include:

  • Barolo (bone dry)
  • Cabernet Sauvignon (dry)
  • Chianti (bone dry)
  • Pinot Noir (dry)
  • Sangiovese (dry)
  • Tempranillo (dry)
  • Merlot (dry)
  • Malbec (bone dry)
  • Nebbiolo (bone dry)
  • Syrah (dry)
  • Valpolicella (dry)

Sparkling wines such as Champagne and Prosecco come in a range of sweetness levels. While there is a market for very sweet sparkling wines, with plenty of residual sugar, there are a number of dry and extra-dry varieties. Check the label for terms like “Brut Nature”, “Extra Brut,” or “Dry”.

One final point to contemplate; the higher the alcohol content of the wine, the less residual sugar it contains, but the more calories the wine has.

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Bolivia’s Wines

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As with other South American countries, Bolivia’s winemaking began in the 1500s with the arrival of the Spanish. Bolivia is situated at a very high altitude. Seventy-five percent of the grapes grown produce red wine, while twenty percent are used in white wine with the remaining five percent split between dessert wine, sparkling wine and fortified wine.

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The dominant red grape is the Muscat. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec and Tannat grapes are also grown. White wines are creäted using mainly Torrontés, Chenin Blanc and Riesling varietals.

There are some grape vines dating back several hundred years that are still used in wine production today, though efforts continue to be made to identify the specific varietals. These plants are grown in the traditional manner being planted around the trunks of molle and chanar trees.

Bolivia’s wine industry is small compared to Chile and Argentina. However, the vines are growing at the highest elevation of any country in the world. Almost all its vineyards are located at an elevation of between 1,600 and 3,000 metres above sea level.

There are about 3,000 hectares of vineyards in the country, eighty percent of which are situated in the Central Valley of Tarija in the south-central region. Conditions there are temperate and semi-arid due to the altitude. Because of the elevation, there is more exposure to sunlight, which concentrates aromas and flavours in the wine. The skins of the grapes get thicker and the grapes grow smaller due to the increased sun exposure.  This higher skin to pulp ratio makes the flavours more intense. At the same time, the sun exposure serves to accelerate the ageing of the wines, which are often fully mature only a couple of years after harvesting.

Bolivian wines are worthwhile seeking out at your local wine store, not only for their rich bold flavours but also because it is estimated that with every hectare of land planted with grapevines, a Bolivian family is lifted out of poverty.

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Muscat Blanc (Moscato)

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Muscat Blanc, or Moscato as it is known in Italy, is a light to medium-bodied off-dry white wine that has a low alcohol level (usually less than 10% alcohol by volume) but is very flavourful. It has no tannins and is medium -high in acidity. Muscat Blanc expresses the scent of lemons, oranges, peaches, pear, honeysuckle and jasmine, making it a suitable partner for the flavours found in seafood, poultry and sushi, or spicey dishes such as Mexican, Thai and Indian foods.

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Muscat Blanc is not a wine that will benefit from decanting. In fact, many of the aromas and much of the flavour would be lost. Long-term cellaring is not recommended either. Generally, retention should be limited to a maximum of 5 years.

In Italy, Muscat is also used to create sparkling wine called Moscato Spumante, which is drunk at special occasions and celebrations. It also pairs well with desserts such as almond cake.

Muscat is also produced as a sweet wine and fortified wine. The fortified wine pairs well with various soft cheeses such as Brie, Gouda and Camembert.

Muscat Blanc is believed to have originated in Greece and was introduced to Italy in the 13th century where it has remained very popular ever since. Production has now spread to Austria and Australia’s Yarra Valley and King Valley.

If you haven’t tried Muscat Blanc, it is well worth trying. It could become your next favourite white wine.

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Nebbiolo Grapes and Wines

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One of my favourite grapes, the Nebbiolo (pronounced “Nebby-oh-low”), is a mystery to many people as it is grown in just a few places in the world and is used to make only a couple of different wines. It originated in the Barolo and Barbaresco districts of the Piedmont region of northern Italy. There the grapes thrive on hillsides in the sun with clay or silt-based soil. For this reason, Nebbiolo is rarely grown outside of this region. Nebbiolo has only experienced limited success elsewhere in the world with there being just a few producers in Australia and Mexico’s Baja California.

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Barolo and Barbaresco wines are both made totally from Nebbiolo grapes. Both wines consist of many integral components; individual hillsides, single vineyards and the range of styles and expressions is significant. For example, the Nebbiolo-based wines in Barolo’s La Morra are very different from the ones grown in Serralunga d’Alba. In Barbaresco, the wines from Neive are distinct from the ones grown in Treiso.

There are also excellent Nebbiolo-based wines made in Roero in Piedmont. Nebbiolo is the heart of both Roero and Roero Riserva, as it is with Gattinara, a less-known Nebbiolo-based wine.

Barolo DOCG has two classifications, a “normale” Barolo which has 38 months of aging, which includes 18 months in wood, and Barolo Riserva DOCG with 62 months aging, also including 18 months in wood.

Average price: $35 t0 $100 CDN but more expensive options are available.

Barbaresco DOCG has two classifications, a “normale” Barbaresco with 26 months aging and Barbaresco Riserva DOCG with 50 months aging. Both wines must include 9 months of their aging in wood.

Average price: $40 to $100 CDN but you can spend more.

Roero Rosso DOCG must be 95% Nebbiolo and have 20 months of aging with at least 6 months in oak. The Riserva level tends to be even softer with 32 months of aging including 6 months in wood.

Average Price: $20 to $40 CDN but is not always available in Canadian liquor and wine stores.

The nose of Nebbiolo wines tend to suggest hints of floral and light red fruits that suggest that the wine will be lighter than it is. Nebbiolo’s flavour provides hints of leather and lots of tannins along with fruity flavours of cherry and raspberries.

Nebbiolo wines pair well with beef tenderloin, ribeye steak, prime rib, roast turkey, pork sausage, braised duck, braised pork shank or prosciutto. It also compliments cheeses such as parmigiano reggiano, feta, manchego, or pecorino. A wide assortment of vegetables go well, including roasted garlic, shallots, truffles, wild mushrooms, chestnuts, butternut squash, fried polenta, olives, capers, funghi pizza, wild rice and roasted fennel.

If you like Sangiovese or cool-climate Pinot Noir you should try the offerings of Barolo, Barbaresco or Roero Rosso wines.

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The Sweetness Level of Wine

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Wine’s sweetness is determined by the amount of residual sugar that remains after fermentation is complete. It ranges from bone dry (less than 1 gram/litre) to very sweet (over 120 grams/litre). Wine sweetness levels are often, though not consistently, categorized as bone dry, dry, off-dry, semi-sweet, sweet and very sweet. Sweetness indicators are sometimes found on the bottle label or are available on the winery’s tech sheets.

It is interesting to note that wine experts do not always agree on the names of the categories or the scale used to describe sweetness. For example, where one authority considers a certain grams per litre ratio as dry, another considers it as off-dry.

Complicating things further, you will see that some types of wine may appear in more than one category. This is because there can be differences in the sweetness level depending on the fermentation process used by individual vintners. Yeast converts grape sugars to alcohol. If fermentation is stopped early, more sugar is left in the wine. Therefore, a single varietal, for example Riesling, may appear in more than one category.

While residual sugar is the main factor, other elements such as tannins (common in red wines) can make a wine feel drier than its sugar content would suggest.

Category Residual Sugar (g/L) Description
Bone DryLess than 1 g/LEssentially no distinguishable sweetness; very crisp.
Dry1 – 3 g/L Little to no noticeable sweetness.
Off-Dry4 – 12 g/LAn evident but not overwhelming amount of sweetness
Semi-Sweet12.1 – 35 g/LOverlaps with the Off-Dry and Sweet classifications.
Sweet35 – 120 g/LA significant amount of sweetness
Very SweetOver 120 g/LVery sweet; often dessert wines.

             

Listed below, by category, are many popular wines. The wines within each grouping appear in no particular order.

Level of DrynessRedWhite
Bone DryNebbioloMuscadet
MalbecChablis
ChiantiGrenache Blanc
BordeauxPinot Grigio
Barolo
DrySangioveseGruner
TempranilloSauvignon Blanc
Cabernet SauvignonPinot Gris
Pinot NoirChardonnay
SyrahChenin Blanc
MerlotVermentinu
Cabernet FrancSémillon
CarménèreViognier
ValpolicellaDry Riesling
BeaujolaisTrebbiano
GrenacheRoussanne
ZinfandelMarsanne
Off DryKabinett
Riesling
Chenin Blanc
Muller
Semi-SweetValpolicellaGewürztraminer
LambruscoSpatules
Riesling
SweetPortLate Harvest
Maury  Riesling
White Port
Very SweetTawny PortIcewine
IcewineRiesling
Vin Santo

To avoid disappointment in purchasing a too sweet or too dry wine, your best option is to pay attention to the grams per litre sugar level and choose your wine accordingly. The sweetness categories can help guide you, but because of their inconsistencies, they should not be relied on totally.

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Primitivo / Zinfandel Wine

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The Primitivo grape is believed to have originated in what is known today as Croatia. It was named Primitivo by the Italians based on the Italian word “primaticcio”, which means ‘early ripened’. The vines are believed to have been exported to North America during the early 1800s, where the grapes became known as Zinfandel. Where that name came from, I have no idea.

The most common Zinfandel is a dry, medium-bodied red wine with medium to high tannins and medium to low acidity. The alcohol by volume is usually in the very high range, in excess of 14%.

Red Zinfandel is a bold, fruit-forward red with smoky spice notes. Its primary flavours are generally blackberry, strawberry, peach, cinnamon and tobacco.

The wine pairs well with BBQ ribs, grilled chicken, roast lamb, pulled pork, pork chops, blackened salmon, bacon-wrapped tenderloin, game meats and burgers. If cheese is your thing, pair it with sharp cheddar or smoked gouda. Vegetables like caramelized onion, tomatoes, grilled eggplant, mushrooms, olives, zucchini or baked beans will also go well. Desserts such as cheesecake and dark chocolate are great options as well.

There is also White Zinfandel, which is actually a sweet pink Rosé. It has aromas of fruits, such as strawberries, raspberries, cherries and citrus.

Today, the United States, where the grape is referred to as Zinfandel, is the largest producer, with over 18,500 hectares under management. Italy, where it is still referred to by its original name, has almost 14,000 hectares of vines. Macedonia is next with 1,000 hectares and Australia with 87 hectares. Lesser amounts are grown in Chile, Canada and South Africa.

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English Wine

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England is known for its Gin and Tonic (G&T) and its bitters (beer), but did you know that the English also produce fine wine? The United Kingdom ranks 6th in the world for wine consumption, but over the past 15 to 20 years England has been making a name for itself as an up-and-coming wine producer. Most notable are its sparkling wines, which are made in the traditional way. They are finishing ahead of major Champagne houses in competitions and earning recognition around the world.

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Sparkling wines represent 65% of England’s wine production. Still white wines represent about 20% of production and reds and Rosé make up the remaining 15%.

The last official count suggested that there are about 450 wineries in England, producing around 3.2 million bottles of wine each year. Many of the wineries and vineyards are situated along the southern strip of England’s coast from Cornwall to Kent, where the climate is slightly warmer and dryer than elsewhere in the country. This area includes the counties of Kent, Surrey and Sussex.

Sussex is situated alongside of the English Channel and is one of the sunniest regions in England. It benefits from the same soil characteristics as that found in France’s Champagne region. The grapes grown there include the classic Champagne grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, as well as Bacchus, which is a cross of the German white grapes Silvaner, Riesling and Müller.

The county of Kent is located to the east of Sussex along the English Channel. The viticulture includes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Bacchus and Ortega. The Champagne house Taittinger purchased land in Kent and planted Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in its English vineyard.

Kent has also drawn attention from a second French Champagne house. Pommery joined forces with England’s Hattingley Valley creating Louis Pommery England.

Each year the number of wineries continue to increase to satisfy the growing demand for English wine, in particular sparkling wine. Due to climate change, viticulture is now expanding beyond the traditional three counties right across England and even into Wales. Global temperatures have increased to the point where the temperature in England is now nearing that of the Champagne region of France during the prime of Champagne production, before the challenges brought on by climate change. 

As a result, consumers can anticipate more English wines becoming available in global markets. As the prices for land in England are drastically lower than in Champagne, producers can afford to sell their wines at more consumer-friendly prices. Also, because of the similar soil composition as found in Champagne, the flavour is much closer to Champagne than either Spain’s Cava or Italy’s Prosecco.

Cheers to the future of English wine.

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Peruvian Wine

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It seems that many people are not aware that Peru produces a variety of quality wines. In fact, it is the oldest wine producing country in South America, ahead of the more familiar wine nations of Chile and Argentina.

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Because of the early Spanish settlers, Peru has a strong Spanish influence. During the 16th century Spanish conquistadors planted grape varieties that came from the Canary Islands. The 17th and 18th centuries were the golden age of wine production with Peruvian wine being sold throughout South America.

Unfortunately, during the 19th century viticulture suffered as a result of earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and phylloxera, an insect pest of grapevines worldwide. There were also economic restrictions imposed by Spain resulting in growers refocusing and producing crops other than grapes.

Those vineyards that remained changed their focus from wine making to producing pisco. Pisco is a pale yellowish to amber coloured spirit. It is produced by distilling fermented grape juice into a high proof spirit. Alternatively, grapes were used to make Borgoña, which is a sweet wine made from Isabella hybrid grapes.

Today Peruvian winemakers are once again focused on producing fine wine. They have modernized their wineries and repurposed their vineyards with the help of international consultants.

Producers are following one of two different paths. One is to grow European grape varieties, notably Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Tannat, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The other choice is to raise heritage grapes that have historically been used to make pisco. These include Quebranta, Mollar, Negra Criolla, Torontel, Muscatel Negro del Perú, Albilla and Italia. Some of these have been around since viticulture first began in South America, while others were bred there.

Production of wines from heritage grapes is a way to differentiate Peruvian wines from the other South American counties. On the other hand, there is plenty of potential to produce unique expressions using international varieties such as Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet and Muscat.

Whether you select a Peruvian wine made with heritage grapes or European varieties, the taste experience is well worth the effort to find one of these treasures along your wine store shelves.

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Maritimes Adventure

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During a recent trip to the maritime provinces of Canada, I made a point of seeking out local wines to try. The first I came across while in St. Andrews by the Sea, New Brunswick; the second I found in North Rustico, Prince Edward Island and two while in Nova Scotia.

The first wine my wife and I tried was a 2019 Marquette from the Magnetic Hill Winery of Moncton, New Brunswick. It was a light bodied red wine similar to a Pinot Noir. It had aromas of cherries, blackcurrants and blackberries. The wine was a pleasure to drink and reasonably priced at $20.00 CDN.

The Marquette varietal is the cousin of the Frontenac varietal, which is a well-known French North American hybrid, and a descendant of Pinot Noir. This wine pairs well with pub foods such as cheeseburgers, bangers (sausages) and mash and chili con carne.

The second wine we tried was a $21.99 CDN Gamay from Matos Winery & Vineyards of St. Catherines, PEI. Until then I was not aware that there is a winery on PEI.

Matos Winery & Vineyards is a family-owned and run business that was initiated in 2007.  They utilize the French concept of terroir whereby they found a location where the combination of soil, slope, sun exposure and the peculiar weather patterns allow certain grape varieties to thrive.  They consulted with European vintners who visited PEI to provide their skill and knowledge.

Their Gamay has won a bronze medal at the National Wine Awards in 2016, 2014, 2012 and silver in 2011.

The first wine from Nova Scotia that we tried was the 2022 Baco Noir from Blomidon Estate Winery, of the Annapolis Valley, near Canning.

The 2022 Baco Noir has a nose of bright berry fruit accentuated by vanilla and notes of spice. Unfortunately for us, we found the wine to be slightly harsh and not quite as smooth and mellow as we have become accustomed to for Baco Noir. The price of this wine is $23.00 CDN.

Given the structure of this wine it would be best suited for pairing with barbecued beef or pork.

Blomidon Estate produces 100% Nova Scotia grown grapes and wines. Over the years they have earned several national and international awards.

The 2nd wine from Nova Scotia we experienced was Founders’ Red from Jost Winery, which is made from a blend of Leon Millot and Marechal Foch grapes. We experienced this wine during a quiet afternoon at our B&B outside of Cap-Pelé, New Brunswick. Like the day, this wine was very smooth and mellow. It had wonderful fruit flavours and was well worth the $17.19 CDN we paid for it. 

Founders’ Red is a well-balanced blend of Nova Scotian-grown grapes with deep colour and intensity. This wine pairs well with barbequed meats and roasted pork.

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Wine & Wings

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Wings and beer are pretty much standard fare, a pairing seemingly made in heaven. When it comes to pairing drink with wings, usually the last thing to come to mind is wine. However, I am here to talk about wine, not beer, so here are some fun and interesting wine pairing suggestions for the next time wings are on the menu. The only challenge will be keeping the sticky sauce off your wine glass.

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When it comes to pairing wine with wings, it is all about the sauce. The wine needs to match the spice, heat and acid found in the wing sauces. Therefore, the wine must calm the heat, highlight the sauce’s acidity with its own acidity and complement the spiciness – a relatively easy task.

Here are some of the more typical wing varieties and corresponding wine recommendations:

BBQ

There are many varieties and interpretations of BBQ sauce. But when it comes to wings, the sauce is likely to be sweet and heavy. Such big bold sauces call for a big bold red wine, such as Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Zinfandel or Carménère. The intense red and black fruit you find in these wines will complement the tomatoes and spices found in BBQ wing sauce. The high tannins will offset the heat of chili and cayenne.

Savory, herbal notes found in these reds will go well with the garlic and onions in the sauce. And the wine’s dry nature will offset the sweetness of brown sugar and molasses.

Buffalo

This is a classic made from butter and hot sauce with heat levels ranging from mild to super hot. A sweeter wine such as Riesling, Vouvray or Gewürztraminer is just the thing to pair with spicier foods. The higher acidity of these wines will cut through the buttery sauce and the fatty chicken beneath.

Garlic Parmesan

The light, stone fruit flavours of Pinot Grigio will pair well with the taste of garlic and hit of flavour of the Parmesan cheese.

Honey Garlic

Sweet and savory, honey garlic wings tend to forego heat for a big aroma, along with a tangy flavour. Honey and garlic are both strong flavours so the wine needs to support the aromas and flavours. Sparkling Rosé, Crémant d’Alsace, Chenin Blanc or Prosecco will work well in this regard.

Honey Mustard

The sweet tang of honey mustard wings will go well with an unoaked or slightly oaked Chardonnay.

Jerk

Rosé is the perfect pairing for quelling the lingering heat of chicken wings coated with a peppery jerk rub.

Korean-Style

The bright acidity of a Grüner Veltliner is a great pairing for crispy Korean-style wings.

Lemon Pepper

Whether you’re trying a dry rub or a sauce, lemon pepper wings offer a light, zingy flavour that is typically less spicy. It will pair well with wines with lots of citrus flavour and acidity.  A French Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis or Dry Riesling are good choices. These wines typically have brilliant lemon aromas, along with a strong sense of minerality that will go with the hit of pepper.

Sweet Chili

Thai-inspired wings are both the sweet and the spicy. Generally, a Thai Chili sauce packs less heat than other wing sauces so an overly sweet wine is not required. An off-dry white or light red can easily offset the spice. Good wine pairings include Chenin Blanc, a sweet Riesling, Zweigelt or Pinot Gris.

Teriyaki

A light fruit forward Spanish Garnacha will complement the sweet glaze of teriyaki wings.

I strongly suggest having a glass of wine along side your next feed of finger-licking good chicken wings. It may surprise you.

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