Italy’s Hidden Gems

May 27, 2023 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Italy is the largest wine-producing nation in the world and has 20 wine regions. Unlike other countries where grape growing is largely restricted to specific geographical areas, Italian wine is produced nearly everywhere from the top of the boot to the tip of the toe.

Most serious wine drinkers are well acquainted with Tuscany’s Chiantis and Piedmont’s Barolos and Barbarescos. However, with so many wine regions, each having its own unique terroir, and with over a thousand indigenous grapes, there are many great quality, lesser known Italian wines.

The next time you are at your favourite wine store, try a bottle from one of these lesser-known wine regions.

Abruzzo

This southern region is referred to as ‘the green lung of Italy’. Historically, the area was known for the bulk wine production of Montepulciano and Trebbiano, but wineries are working on changing that. There is a native light-skinned white grape varietal called Pecorino, that was once thought to be extinct, but is now gaining popularity thanks to its ability to produce ripe and refreshing wines.

Calabria

Calabria, which is situated at the toe of the boot, has been producing wine for more than 2,500 years. It’s best known for a regional style called Ciro Rosso, made from the Gaglioppo grape. It is a powerful, flavourful red with earthy notes and persistent fragrance.

Campania

Located in southern Italy, east of Naples, Campania is primarily home to the Aglianico varietal. It has very high acidity and tannins, similar to Piedmont’s Nebbiolo grape. Thus, Campania is sometimes referred to as the ‘Nebbiolo of the south’. It produces an earthy, hearty red wine that goes well with fatty meats and spicy sauces, and like its Piedmont counterpart, has tremendous aging potential.

Emilia-Romagna

Emilia-Romagna is one of the oldest wine-producing regions and spans most of central Italy. It’s known for Lambrusco, a sparkling red wine made from the grape of the same name. The wine ranges from dry to sweet, depending on the producer. It has high acidity and notes of berry.

Friuli

Friuli is situated in northeastern Italy between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea. The region was historically known for its white wines, many of which were created from the area’s Friulano grapes. However, it is now receiving international attention for its red wines, which are composed of international varietals such as Merlot.

Lake Garda

Garda, the largest lake in Italy, is in the alpine foothills, midway between Venice and Milan. There are several small wine regions scattered along its shores, each with its own specialty. For example, the Bardolino region produces wines from Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella varietals, similar to those grapes of the Valpolicella region.

The Lugana region has developed a reputation for bold complex white wines from locally grown Trebbiano grapes.

Langhe

The Langhe region is found between the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy. Just like Barolo and Barbaresco, Langhe makes its most acclaimed wines from local Nebbiolo grapes.

Liguria

Liguria is in north-west Italy to the south of Piemonte. The eastern half of the region is home to the famous wine-producing Cinque Terre area, while the western side, Riveria Ligure di Ponente, is known for several highly distinctive wines. Rossese is unique, said to be unlike any other Italian red. It’s been likened to both Dolcetto and Valpolicella and yet boasts its own unique complex character.

Sardinia

Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. There are several underrated indigenous wine varietals found there such as Vermentino, Cannonau and Mirto. Wines made from the white grape Vermentino are crisp, acidic and fruity.

The island’s dominant red variety is Cannonau, which is very similar to France’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It has robust fruit and earthy flavours.

Sicily

Sicily is an island off the coast of the tip of Italy’s boot. Its finest red wines are made from Nero d’Avola grapes which grow in arid vineyards and produce rich wines with intense flavour. Similar to Syrah, it has the ability to produce a hearty, fruity and sometimes tannic wine. There are also reds that are produced from the Nerello Mascalese varietal that create elegant, expressive wines.

Taurasi

In western Italy, south of Umbria is the town of Taurasi. The local vineyards contain Aglianico, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese grapes which are Italy’s three most distinguished varieties.

Umbria

Umbria is located in the middle of central mainland Italy. It is bordered by Tuscany to the north and west, Marche to the west and Lazio to the south. According to some experts, Umbria is home to some of the most undervalued wines in Italy, ranging from crisp, dry Grechetto to bold, ruby red Sagrantino. Sangiovese grapes are also popular in Umbria.

Sláinte mhaith

Springtime Adventure to Italy

May 20, 2023 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

During a recent 16-day springtime excursion to Italy as part of a tour group, I discovered passionate people, their food and their wine. I enjoyed homemade soups, pasta, olives and olive oil, mozzarella and parmigiana reggiano cheese, prosciutto, seafood, pizza, risotto, gelato, tiramisu, limoncello and a variety of amazing coffees.

Italy is the home of the “Dolce Vita” sweet life of physical pleasure and self-indulgence. It has the subliminal charm of fine leathers, renaissance art, classical music and of course, great food and wine.

My wife Valerie and I had the wonderful opportunity to travel by bus through the regions of Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, Lazio and Campania where we enjoyed the regional cuisine and wines.

We began our excursion in Veneto, the home of the cities of Venice and Verona where the white sparkling wine Prosecco is enjoyed in numerous cocktails; most notably Aperol Spritz and Bellini. Aperol Spritz consists of 3 parts Prosecco, 2 parts Aperol and 1 part soda. It is then garnished with an orange slice before serving.

A classic Bellini consists of 1 1/2 oz. of peach puree, topped off with chilled Prosecco. It is served in a champagne glass and garnished with a peach slice. Both drinks are refreshing on a warm sunny day.

The first winery we visited was the Le Fraghe winery near Verona, where we sampled several of their wines. First was Camporengo Garganega, which is straw yellow in colour. It has a balanced bouquet of floral hints of acacia and mimosa with peach and apple. It has full body flavour.

The second wine, Ròdon Chiaretto di Bardolino, consists of red Corvina and Rondinella grapes. Cherry red with rich purple highlights, Ròdon has fragrant aromas. Notes of wild rose are the first to emerge, followed by nuances of wild strawberry and redcurrant. The wine is crisp and full bodied. It also had excellent tannins and acidity with a lengthy finish.

Brol Grande Bardolino Classico consists of Corvina and Rondinella grapes. Brol Grande is a purple-tinged ruby red of medium intensity. Its bouquet is the result of a blend of the fruity essences of sweet-sour cherry and blueberry, along with spicy nuances of cinnamon and black pepper. The one-year barrel time helps the development of the wine. It has a long and slightly salted finish.

All three wines contain Italy’s DOC designation. They are occasionally available in wine stores in Ontario and Quebec.

Veneto is also the home of Valpolicella and Amarone wines. Unfortunately we did not have the opportunity to visit one of these wineries.

The second winery we visited was the Fattoria Poggio Alloro winery, in San Gimignano, Tuscany. The name Poggio Alloro means Bay Leaf Hill, and it refers to the bay laurel bushes that grow on the property. The farm is a family business. At the present time it consists of one hundred hectares and it is completely organic. The grape varietals include Vernaccia di San Gimignano (a local grape that grows only in this town), Sangiovese (to produce the famous Chianti wine), Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia and Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Cabernet, and Merlot.

We sampled six wines while we were there, three white and three red. The white wines included Montecarlo Bianco, which is a blend of 50% Vermentino Toscano and the balance consisting of Vermentino, Roussanne, Sauvignon and Pinot Bianco. This combination produces a light, clear wine with a straw yellow colour. The aroma is delicate while the taste is dry, delicate and well-balanced. Montecarlo Bianco has the DOC designation.

The second white was Montecarlo Bianco Otium, which consists of 40% Trebbiano Toscano, 20% Vermentino, 20% Roussanne, 10% Sauvignon and 10% Pinot Bianco. This wine also contained the DOC designation.

The final white was Incantate Bianco IGT Toscana, which was made totally of Chardonnay grapes. The flavour is tropical and the wine is well balanced.

The first red wine presented was Montecarlo Rosso, which was a blend consisting of 60% Sangiovese, Syrah, Canaiolo, Malvasia and Merlot. It is a light red wine with an aroma that is intense, and the taste is delightfully smooth and dry. It contains the DOC designation.

The second red was Montecarlo Rosso Otium, a DOC designated wine consisting of 50% Sangiovese, 30% Syrah, 10% Cabernet and 10% Merlot. It was aged in oak barrels for four months.

The final wine was Incantate Rosso Toscana which was a bold and structured blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Syrah.

There are also 1,500 olive trees on the farm that are utilized to produce extra-virgin olive oil. The olives are completely hand picked each November and then cold pressed to guarantee the superior quality of this product.

The final winery that we attended was the Tenuta Torciano winery, also in the San Gimignano area. The winery provided a wonderful lunch to accompany the wine tasting but unfortunately the staff did not display the labels of the wines or describe the wines in any detail. The wines are available to be ordered online but they did not say whether any could be purchased from wine stores within Canada.

One wine that we sampled was Tenuta Torciano Baldassarre “IGT Toscana”. This wine is a blend of Sangiovese Grosso, Cabernet and Merlot. It had a deep ruby red colour which transitions to garnet as it ages. It has an elegant bouquet. Hints of wood can be perceived amidst the typical herbaceous notes. Its flavour is dry, full and smooth.

Chianti Classico “Doge” DOCG red wine is produced with Sangiovese grapes, which are harvested by hand and then aged for 12 months.

Doge is characterized by an intense ruby red color. The nose contains hints of violet, then enriched with nuances of ripe red fruit, licorice and vanilla. The taste is full and harmonious, with soft tannins.

Tenuta Torciano Chianti Classico Riserva “Godenzio” is made from Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes. It has a deep ruby red colour with a penetrating bouquet and full and smooth taste.

Overall, many wines produced in Italy are not intended for export but to be consumed as table wine within Italy itself. These wines are released and drank at a young age, have an abundance of fruit flavour and a slightly lower alcohol level. Examples of these wines include Dolcetto, Montepulciano, Nero d’Avola, Aglianico and Negroamaro.

Unfortunately, being part of a tour, we were at the mercy of the tour company as to which wineries we visited. On the other hand, we had the opportunity to travel to two cheese factories, a couple of olive farms, a Prosciutto farm and a limoncello producer where we enjoyed experiences we otherwise wouldn’t have.

Sláinte mhaith

Wine from the Netherlands

April 15, 2023 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

When you think of wine regions of the world it is unlikely that the Netherlands immediately comes to mind. Wine has been produced in The Netherlands for centuries but the winemaking industry has been working hard to reinvented itself over the past few decades. The quality of wines made in the Netherlands has increased immensely and as a result, it is slowly but surely becoming a true wine country.

The improvements are the result of the development of new grape varieties that are better suited to the Dutch climate. These new grapes have served to increase vineyard acreage 10-fold. Also, the Dutch vintners are becoming more experienced, thus improving the quality of Dutch wines.

There are about 170 commercial vineyards in The Netherlands with a combined vineyard acreage of about 320 hectares. Most of the vineyards are in the south of Limburg, the warmest region in The Netherlands and traditionally the best place to grow grapes. The majority of the grapes are white varietals due to the cool climate, although there is some Pinot Noir grown as well.

Traditional grape varietals include whites such as:

Auxerois
Chardonnay
Müller-Thurgau
Pinot Blanc
Pinot Gris

Since 2000, several new grape varieties better suited to the Dutch climate have been added. There are more red grapes among these new varieties.

White varietals include:

Johanitter
Muscaris
Solaris
Souvigner Gris

Red varietals include:

Regent
Cabernet Cortis
Rondo

I have never had the opportunity to try wine from The Netherlands but I am hopeful that I will have that chance when I visit there later this year. Unfortunately, these wines do not seem to be available in any of the wine or liquor store that I have access to. Hopefully one day …

Sláinte mhaith

The Aromas of Wine

April 1, 2023 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

The aromas of wine, which are also referred to as the nose or bouquet, range from simple to very complex, depending on the wine. The best way to release the aromas is to swirl the liquid around the bowl of the glass. This will expose the liquid to the air, thus releasing all of the smells.

When you go to smell the wine don’t be bashful; stick your nose as far as you can into the glass and close your eyes. You will notice a lot more scents this way. Then breathe in deep. As you do, think about what aromas you’re picking up.

If it’s a white wine, you may be reminded of bananas, lemon rind or pineapple. If it’s a red wine, you may smell prunes, cherries, strawberries, peppers, plums or tobacco. Sometimes you may just smell grapes. Your brain will only pick up scents that you are familiar with and have smelled before. Thus, you and I could smell the same wine at the same time and relate a totally different experience. The aroma is in the brain of the beholder.

When identifying the aromas, the experts will consider them at three levels referred to as primary, secondary and tertiary. Primary aromas come from the grapes or are created during the fermentation process. A simple wine may show a very limited number of primary aromas whereas a more complex wine may display many more primary aromas.

White wines will display fruity aromas such as lemon, lime, grapefruit, apricot, peach or plum. Red wines tend to present smells of strawberry, raspberry, blackcurrant or cherry. There may also be floral, herbaceous scents in both white and red wines.

The secondary aromas in wine are created by the post-fermentation process. The most obvious of these are extracted from the oak that the wine barrels are made of. Oak is often used when making wines such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. The oak can create hints of vanilla, cloves, coconut, cedar, chocolate, coffee or smoke. Non-oak aromas may include cream, butter, cheese, toasted bread or biscuits.

Tertiary aromas occur as the wine ages in the bottle. Only older mature wines will display these characteristics. White wines may have aromas of orange marmalade, ginger, nutmeg, honey and stone fruits, such as peaches or plums. Red wines may show hints of dried fruit, leather, mushroom, meat, tobacco or caramel.

There you have it; the aromas in wine are created at three different levels but how you interpret them will be as unique as you.

Sláinte mhaith

Bordeaux’s Left and Right Bank

March 25, 2023 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

The prestigious Bordeaux wine region is located on the western coast of France. The region is separated into two sub-regions, referred to as the Right Bank and the Left Bank. Each region has its own unique nuances that characterize it from the other.

The banks refer to the two riverbanks, the land masses on either side of the Gironde Estuary, the place where a river meets the sea. The Gironde Estuary is fed by two rivers, the Dordogne and the Garonne. The Left Bank viticultural region is on the southwest side of the Gironde and the Right Bank is on the northeast side.

The prominent difference between the Left and Right banks is the grape varietal grown. The Left Bank is famous for its Cabernet Sauvignon while the Right Bank is mainly Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. The reason for the grape varieties being different is due to the type of soil. The Left Bank is characterized by gravelly soils while the Right Bank is mainly clay soils.

The varietals grown determines the difference in style of wine produced. The Left Bank’s Cabernet Sauvignon-based blends tend to be more structured, powerful and have a higher presence of tannins, whereas the Right Bank’s Merlot-dominant blends tend to be softer and silkier. Personally, I am a fan of the wines from the Right Bank.

The most complicated difference between the Left and Right Banks is the way in which the wine is classified. For a detailed explanation of the classification methods see my post, France’s Cru Levels from March 18^th.

The most notable vineyards on the Left Bank include Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion, Château Lafite, and Château Mouton Rothschild. Estates on the Right Bank include Château Cheval Blanc, Château Angélus, Château Pavie and Pétrus.

Sláinte mhaith

France’s Cru Levels

March 18, 2023 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

As I have discussed in the past, French wine labels can be rather puzzling since they indicate the region where the wine was produced rather than the grape varietal contained inside the bottle. Also, the label will often contain such words as “Grand”, “Premier” or “Cru”. Even though premier means first in French, you will often find grand appearing on the better quality wines.

The simple translation for cru is growth. However, in the world of French wine its reference is for the geographic terrain, specifically the soil type, climate and altitude where the grapes are grown. It gets complicated by the fact that cru is not applied in the same manner throughout all the wine regions of France. Further complicating things is that the term cru is also used in Germany and Italy where there are additional variations in the meaning.

In the Burgundy region of France, the classification of cru is rather simple. Cru designates a vineyard as being of a certain level of quality. The classifications originate back to the 12^th century and the Cistercian and Benedictine monks in the Côte d’Or. Every vineyard in Burgundy is classified in the hierarchy where Grand Cru is at the top followed by Premier Cru and then “village” wines, with the generic Bourgogne category at the bottom.

There are 33 Grand Crus with each having its own appellation. Only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown here, but most appellations only permit one or the other varietal to be grown; very few allow both. Premier Cru wines are less expensive and are often a better value, though their long-term aging potential is typically less.

Chablis has one Grand Cru appellation that includes seven vineyards. These vineyards overlook the town of Chablis and benefit from a southwest exposure that helps ripen the grapes.

The Bordeaux region applies the term cru in a much different manner. Grand Cru Classé classification system forms the basis of the rating system and it’s tied to a specific chateau or estate, rather than adjacent vineyards. It was created in 1855 and is comprised of only left bank chateaus in Médoc, Graves and Sauternes, ranked from first to fifth growths, based on their value at that time. The first growths are called Premiers Crus, while second through fifth growth crus are called Crus Classes.

On the right bank Pomerol isn’t classified but Saint-Émilion is. St.-Émilion has three chateau-based quality classifications. At the top is Premier Grands Crus Classés, of which there are 18, followed by Grands Crus Classés which contains 64 chateaus. The appellation’s third category is not tied to a specific ‘classed’ chateau or geographical subzone. Wines labeled “St.-Émilion Grand Cru” merely have more stringent production rules.

The Alsace region uses the term Grand Cru in similar fashion as the Burgundy region. Fifty-one vineyards have been designated superior, or Grand Cru, and wine from those vineyards can use the term on their label. There is a great deal of diversity in Alsace’s Grand Cru wines. There are four grapes approved for use, as well as a wide variation in soils.

The Beaujolais region is where Gamay grapes are grown. Here cru is applied to villages rather than vineyards. There are 10 villages and the wine produced from these villages is called Cru Beaujolais.

The Champagne region also classifies entire villages as Grand Cru or Premier Cru. The Champenois created a system referred to as échelle des crus, or “ladder of the growths” in the early 20th century to fix grape prices for both farmers and buyers at Champagne houses.

At each harvest a price is set and growers with land in one of Champagne’s grand cru village receives 100% of that price. Grapes from the premier cru villages earns from 90% to 99% of the set price, while the rest receive from 80% to 89%.

There you have it; a little more of the puzzle of French wine resolved.

Sláinte mhaith

The Mystery of French Wine

February 18, 2023 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

In France the varietal of grape a wine is made of is seldom indicated on the label. Instead, the French tend to identify flavour by the region from which the wine was produced. Because of this, people often shy away from buying French wine. However, the mystery of French wine can be solved by simply knowing which grapes are grown in each region. To assist you, most wine and liquor stores arrange their French wines by region.

*Photo credit: ihmkolkatafoodandbeveragenotes.blogspot.com*

ALSACE

The Alsace region is located in the northeastern region of France between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine River. Historically, Alsace was part of Germany, which influences the types of grapes grown in the region. It is home to single varietal white wines including Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Sylvaner. The wines cover the spectrum, ranging from dry to sweet.

BEAUJOLAIS

The Beaujolais region is known for growing the Gamay grape, which has bright acidity and low tannins.

BORDEAUX

Bordeaux is France’s largest and most renowned wine region. It is known for its red blends highlighting Cabernet Sauvignon on the Left Bank and Merlot, Pomerol and Saint Emilion on the Right Bank. The white varietals of Bordeaux include Barsac and Sauternes grapes.

BURGUNDY

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, referred to as Chablis, are the standard grapes grown in the Burgundy region.

CHAMPAGNE

The Champagne region is renowned for its sparkling wines produced from one or more of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier.

LOIRE VALLEY

The Loire Valley stretches from the Auvergne region to the Atlantic Ocean. It produces most of France’s white wine. The white varietals of the Loire include Chenin Blanc (called Vouray), Sauvignon Blanc (referred to as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé) and Muscadet. It is also known for the red varietal, Cabernet Franc.

PROVENCE

Provence is the oldest wine region in France. It is the only region that specializes in Rosé wines.

RHÔNE VALLEY

Syrah and Viognier are the highlights of the northern part of the region while Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre are prominent in the south. Mourvèdre is the dominate grape in Châteauneuf -du-Pape. Blending of the grapes results in rich reds and vigorous whites and rosé.

Final Thoughts

Once you know which regions grow your favourite grapes, it is much easier to find a suitable bottle of French wine to enjoy.

Sláinte mhaith

Grape Revival

December 31, 2022 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

There is a recurring theme of grape revivals beginning to take place in Europe. Back on May 28^th I wrote about France’s The Forgotten Grape of the Loire, the Lignage grape, and today I will talk about efforts taking place by some of the world’s largest wine producers. Not only do they have the resources to take on such a massive undertaking, but they also have the land, the vineyards and the history to be able to go back in time to re-plant vines for the future.

One such producer is Spain’s Familia Torres where Miguel A. Torres, the fourth-generation president, began the work about 40 years ago after discussing the great phylloxera aphid epidemic of the late 19th century with famed University of Montpellier viticulture professor Denis Boubals. The insect infestation, which unknowingly came from North America, destroyed most European vineyards. However, Boubals believed that a few vines had probably survived somewhere.

Torres began the search for orphan vines and over several decades his winery has rediscovered 54 ancient grape varieties from Catalonia, including six good enough to produce as wine. It is his belief that we need a new way of understanding wine in order to mitigate the effects of climate change. With that aim, Familia Torres focused their efforts on reducing their carbon footprint, while recovering ancestral varieties, promoting research and implementing regenerative viticulture to benefit the vineyards and the planet. What makes these old varietals even more interesting and potentially important in light of climate change is that they have been found to be significantly resistant to both heat and drought.

Regenerating ancestral varieties is an exercise in viticultural archaeology to recover past heritage. By reviving varieties used by their ancestors, they can look to the future and discover the authenticity that will result in extraordinary wines that are truly special and cannot be made the same way anywhere else.

With an understanding of the type of varieties and vines that prospered so well in its soils in the past, the Torres family will be able to work better with the grapes and terroir they now have in their vineyards.

The first step of the project was to try and fine old vines and determine if they were indeed varieties that were no longer cultivated. This required going to the media outlets and placing ads asking farmers to contact Torres if they came across vines they could not identify.

Their first breakthrough came in the mid-1980s when a vine was found that Torres’s technical team could not identify. This unknown varietal was eventually identified as Garró. After much examination and research the decision was made to plant the variety in Conca de Barberà and add it to the blend of the first Grans Muralles vintage in 1996.

In 1998 a second variety was found and named Querol, after the village where it was found. The 2009 vintage was the first Grans Muralles blend to include grapes from the Querol vines.

Since 2000, Familia Torres’s research team has collaborated with France’s National Agricultural Research Institute, the INRA, to establish and implement specific stages when looking to identify and revive ancestral varietals. These stages include:

Search for Varietals

This includes the placement of ads with local and regional media outlets to tell grape growers who to contact if they happen to come across an old vine. When a potential case presents itself, Torres’s technical team conducts a preliminary evaluation on site.

Identification and Classification

To identify different varieties, ampelographers analyze the shoots, leaves, canes and grapes. A DNA analysis of the vine is then completed to dispel any remaining doubts about the variety. If the variety is identified as being unique, the team then completes a detailed description of all of the plant’s components.

Evaluation and Enological Potential

In order to study the behavior of these varieties under normal reproductive conditions, the vines are planted in a pilot vineyard. This allows for an in-depth analysis of the vegetative and productive parameters of each individual variety. The grapes are harvested to evaluate the enological (science that deals with wine and wine making) potential and organoleptic (being, affecting, or relating to qualities (such as taste, colour and odor) of a substance (such as a food) that stimulate the sense organs) quality of the wines.

Adapting to the Vineyard

The varieties displaying enological potential are planted in vineyards to evaluate their performance under more extreme climate conditions. Once the ideal conditions for each variety have been identified and its enological potential verified, the process of registering it with the relevant authorities begins.

The complete list of ancestral varieties that have been regenerated by Familia Torres include the following:

Garró

Garró was the first variety to be revived. First found on the terraced slopes of the Garraf Massif in the mid-1980s, it was planted in the early 1990s in Conca de Barberà. It was initially used in the blend of the first Grans Muralles vintage (1996). This is a late ripening, low yield variety with “great aromatic complexity”, according to Torres. It also “displays intense notes of green leaves and ripe black fruit. They are big on the palate, with lots of character and lively tannins”.

Querol

This old vine, rediscovered in 1998 near Querol (Tarragona,) saw the resurgence of a variety that was named after the village where it was found. It is one of the few known varieties that is completely female. This means that unlike most vinifera vines, its flowers are female rather than hermaphroditic (having both male and female reproductive organs). s a result, the berries are smaller and more irregular, and produce in a low yield.

Torres says Querol wines “are intense and fruity (forest fruit, pomegranate juice) with a big, concentrated palate that displays good acidity”.

Moneu

Moneu was also found in 1998 near Querol. It is named after Coster de Moneu, located to the south of the village. It is a red variety that grows well in high temperatures and drought conditions. The wines offer intense aromas of fragrant fresh fruit with well-defined acidity and gentle tannins.

Gonfaus

This is a red variety that was found around Lluçanès in Osona county in 1998. The climate conditions there are extremely dry, with large changes between daytime and nighttime temperatures. Gonfaus is a very low-yielding variety with wine that displays complex aromas of ripe fruit with slightly spicy undertones. It has well-integrated acidity and ripe, sweet tannins.

Forcada

Forcada is a white varietal found in Ripollès county. It is very vigorous and productive, as well as very aromatic. It has aromas of herbs, white flowers and citrus.

Pirene

Found in the foothills of the Catalan Pyrenees, Pirene is a strongly pigmented red variety with high tannin levels and a spicy, minerally nuance. The flavour reveals flavourful fresh fruit.

Sláinte mhaith

The Mysteries of the Wine World

December 22, 2022 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Given the severe winter storm that is expected to arrive later today and the power outages that are anticipated to accompany it, I am publishing the blog earlier this week.

The world of wine can be intimidating, appear complicated and very mysterious. Understanding the flavours of the large number of grape varieties and complicated regional appellations can be somewhat daunting.

*Photo credit: theundergroundbottleshop.com*

If you’ve been firmly staying within your comfort zone and continually drinking the same type of wine, it’s time for a change. Although it’s great to have a safe choice or two, it is good to explore new horizons. There is an exciting world of wine ready to be discovered.

If you insist on staying with the same grape variety, then try wines from different regions and styles. For example, if you normally drink a California Chardonnay, try an Australian one or a French Chablis. If an Australian Shiraz is your preference, sample a French Syrah. For great Merlot, consider lesser-known varieties with similar flavour profiles, such as Spanish Mencía or Saperavi, an ancient red grape from Georgia. Pinot Noir enthusiasts should explore those wines of Burgundy France, Oregon, New Zealand, Australia or Argentina. Region can have a great influence on character and flavour.

The total experience, from purchase to consumption, can affect your perception of the wine you are drinking. Grocery stores are great for picking up a few cans or bottles of your favourite coolers or beer, but not a great option when purchasing wine. To best ensure that you have a good buying experience, always go to a good quality liquor store or specialty wine shop that has knowledgeable staff. You can ask for advice and receive suggestions, especially if you become a regular at a place with experienced and well-trained employees.

To help you select a good bottle, don’t be afraid to ask about new products or releases, innovative winemakers and local wines, or ask for pairing suggestions for an upcoming dinner. You can help the staff understand your likes by revealing your favourite varieties and styles. One thing to remember is that there are good wines in every price range so don’t be intimidated by wanting to stay within a specific price range.

Regarding price, it is one of the most common misconceptions about wine. People often have the perception that more expensive wines taste better. Purchasing wine varietals that you like from less familiar locations can save you money. Instead of buying wine from the most popular regions, discover reasonably priced quality wines from new, smaller or less popular regions. For example, Chardonnay (Chablis) from France or California tends to be more costly than a wine of the same varietal from Australia or South Africa.

When reading the label on the bottle, resist the urge to simply purchase one with an attractive label or an intriguing name. Neither of these are an indicator of the quality and character of the wine.

The label will tell you whether it is an Old World or New World wine. Old World wines are from Europe whereas New World wines are from anywhere but Europe. New World wine labels will generally identify the actual varietal or varietals that the wine consists of. In contrast, Old World European wines indicate the regional appellation where it was produced. Examples would include Bordeaux or Burgundy from France, Chianti from Italy or Rioja from Spain. However, there are many more appellations. Back in the blog archives are posts on the various wine regions of France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, etc. that identify which grape varietals are produced in each region.

Recognizing the name of the wine producer or importer may give you a hint about the quality of the wine, but location and grape variety will provide the best idea of what to expect in a bottle.

The labels will also display the vintage, which indicates the year the grapes were harvested. When purchasing a wine to be enjoyed in the immediate or near future, the vintage doesn’t reveal much about quality. There is a common misconception that older wines are always better. Though this applies to some bold wines that need time to rest before reaching their full potential, it represents only about ten percent of wines produced.

Whether a wine bottle has a cork stopper or screw cap is not an indicator of a wine’s quality. Though cork has been the traditional method for sealing bottles, it is not necessarily the best way. There are both pros and cons to both methods and neither comes out as a clear winner. My blog, Cork versus Screw Cap from January 8, 2022, presents the arguments for both.

Lastly, when selecting a wine at a restaurant, don’t be afraid to ask the wine steward or sommelier for advice. These are typically well-informed individuals who are there to share their knowledge so take advantage of their presence to receive expert advice. They will help you select a wine that will both suit your palate and complement the food.

Sláinte mhaith

Italy’s Sangiovese Grape

October 29, 2022 / A Layman's Wine Musings / 3 Comments

The Sangiovese varietal is the most planted wine variety in Italy and has made the Tuscany region renowned for its Chianti wine. In Chianti, Sangiovese must account for 70% of the blend and in Chianti Classico the minimum rises to 80%. Other better-known Tuscan wine blends made mainly from Sangiovese grapes include Morellino di Scansano, which must contain 85% and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, with 70% Sangiovese grapes.

Beyond Tuscany, Sangiovese is widely planted in Lazio, Umbria, Marche (all of which border Tuscany) and Corsica. In Corsica the variety is known as Nielluccio or Niellucciu.

In addition to being a mainstay in many varieties of red wines, Sangiovese is often used for Vin Santo wines, which are a style of Italian dessert wine. Vin Santo is traditionally found in Tuscany.

Sangiovese can come in different stylistic expressions based on where it grows. There are many different mutations of the variety found throughout Italy, which results in very different tasting wines. From the delicate, floral strawberry aromas of Montefalco Rosso to the intensely dark and tannic wines of Brunello di Montalcino, Sangiovese wines have wide appeal.

Sangiovese is seldom found outside of Italy. Of the approximate 70,800 hectares of Sangiovese grown worldwide, almost 63,000 hectares are grown in Italy, followed by about 1,940 in Corsica, and 800 hectares in each of Argentina and the United States.

Sangiovese is savory and offers a wide range of tastes. Flavours can vary from very earthy and rustic, as in many Chianti Classico, to round and fruit-forward options. Regardless of where it is grown, it always contains hints of cherry and subtle notes of tomato.

The range of flavours include tart cherry, red plum, strawberry, roasted pepper, tomato, leather, tobacco, smoke, oregano and thyme.

Sangiovese is often lightly oaked in oak barrels. The tannin and acidity level is usually quite high with ageability ranging normally from 4 to 7 years, with some varieties from the Brunello di Montalcino region being aged from 10 to 18 years.

Sangiovese pairs with a wide range of foods because of its medium weighted body and savory character. Use Sangiovese wine as a congruent flavour with herbs and tomatoes. This technique will bring out more fruity flavors in the wine.

A Sangiovese with high tannins will pair well with rich roasted meat, cured sausages and hard cheeses. Vegetarian pairings include butter and olive oil; the richness in the fat helps cut through the wines’ tannins.

Sangiovese is a long-time personal favourite of mine, whether on its own or as the mainstay in a Chianti blend. If you have never tried Sangiovese, it is well worthwhile seeking it out in the Italian Tuscany section of your local wine store.

Sláinte mhaith