The 2025 National Wine Awards

Photo credit: winealign.com

This year Penticton, British Columbia hosted the 25th anniversary of the WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada (NWAC). The NWAC is the country’s largest competition, involving only 100 percent Canadian-grown and produced wines.

This year a new category was introduced – Library Wines. This classification includes wines that are 5 years or older. These aged wines were not compared against each other but instead, each wine was independently assessed as to where it was in its lifecycle and how well it was ageing and tasting.

The Replacement wines or Crafted in B.C. wines were not included as part of The WineAlign National Wine Awards.

Winery of the Year

The 2025 Winery of the Year is Penticton, British Columbia’s Mission Hill Family Estate. This is the sixth time Anthony von Mandl has been awarded this prestigious honour.

This year, Mission Hill entered 11 top-tier wines, earning two Platinum medals, five Golds and one Silver medal.

The balance of the top 10 wineries are:

  • Laughing Stock Vineyards, Penticton, British Columbia
  • Meyer Family Vineyards, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • SpearHead Winery, Kelowna, British Columbia
  • The Organized Crime Winery, Beamsville, Ontario
  • Quails’ Gate Winery, Kelowna, British Columbia
  • Peller Estates, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario
  • Fielding Estate Winery, Lincoln, Ontario
  • Trius Winery, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario
  • Tantalus Vineyards, Kelowna, British Columbia

Best Performing Small Winery

This year’s Best Performing Small Winery is Penticton, British Columbia’s Laughing Stock Vineyards. Laughing Stock earned eight medals at this year’s event: two Platinum, three Gold, one Silver, and two Bronze. 

When the winery was acquired by Arterra Wines in 2017, some experts had concerns as to whether Laughing Stock would maintain its boutique identity under its new corporate umbrella. However, the winery continues to operate with a small, focused team and remains fully independent in its winemaking approach.

The balance of the top 10 small wineries are:

  • Meyer Family Vineyards, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • SpearHead Winery, Kelowna, British Columbia
  • The Organized Crime Winery, Beamsville, Ontario
  • Tantalus Vineyards, Kelowna, British Columbia
  • Township 7 Vineyards and Winery, Penticton, British Columbia
  • Stag’s Hollow Winery, Okanagan Falls, British Columbia
  • Moon Cruiser Vineyards, Osoyoos, British Columbia
  • Orofino Vineyards, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia
  • Thirty Bench Wine Makers, Beamsville, Ontario

Platinum Awards

A Platinum medal is the highest award possible. Less than 2% of the 1,700 wines and ciders entered received this award.

The award process involves a minimum of eight judges, three or four in the first round, and five or six in the second round. Each wine must have achieved an aggregate score of 93 points by five of those judges. 93 points or better is considered entering the realm of “outstanding.” Thus, not every judging category had a Platinum recipient.

This year’s Platinum Award winners are listed below:

Library Wines

  • Moon Curser 2020 Malbec, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Red Blends

  • Black Hills 2023 Bona Fide, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Laughing Stock 2022 Blind Trust Red, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Nomad at Hinterbrook Winery 2021 Wanderlust, Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
  • Palatine Hills Ramblers 2024 Schmoozer Cabernet Merlot, Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
  • The Organized Crime 2022 The Download, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
  • Trius 2022 Grand Red, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Pinot Noir

  • 1 Mill Road 2022 Pinot Noir Home Block, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Lightning Rock Winery 2022 Pinot Noir Canyonview Vineyard, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Meyer 2022 Old Block Pinot Noir   McLean Creek Road Vineyard, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • SpearHead 2022 Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • SpearHead 2022 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Chardonnay

  • 1 Mill Road 2023 Chardonnay, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Meyer 2022 Chardonnay McLean Creek Road Vineyard, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Mission Hill Family Estate 2022 Perpetua, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Quails’ Gate Winery 2022 Rosemary’s Block Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Syrah

  • Laughing Stock 2022 Syrah, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Sandhill 2022 Syrah Terroir Driven Wine, British Columbia
  • Stag’s Hollow 2022 Syrah, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Riesling

  • CedarCreek 2022 Aspect Collection Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Peller Estates 2023 Signature Series Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
  • Thirty Bench 2022 Small Lot Riesling, Triangle Vineyard, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario Trius 2023 Showcase Riesling, Ghost Creek, Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Icewine and Late Harvest

  • Inniskillin 2023 Riesling Icewine Niagara Estate, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
  • Byland 2023 Riesling Icewine, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Cabernet Franc

  • Black Bank Hill 2022 Cabernet Franc, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
  • Fielding 2023 Cabernet Franc, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
  • Kismet 2022 Cabernet Franc Reserve, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Mission Hill Family Estate 2022 Terroir Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Niagara College Teaching Winery 2022 Dean’s List Cabernet Franc, St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
  • Tinhorn Creek 2022 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
  • Merlot

The complete list of award winners can be found at www.winealign/awards.

Sláinte mhaith

Food and Wine Pairings – Yes or No?

I have written my share of posts over the years suggesting certain wines be served with specific foods as the wine will highlight and compliment the flavours and characteristics of a particular food. However, I recently read an article that suggested that too much focus is placed on paring wine with specific foods. The author made several thought-provoking points as to why the practice is not always useful.

Photo credit: google.com

For one thing, everyone’s palate is not the same. Some people have a more sensitive palate than others. What one person finds to be a good pairing; another person may not. Taste is a very personal thing. What one individual enjoys another may not. For example, not everyone enjoys spicy food.

People’s ability to taste and smell varies for a wide assortment of reasons. The tongue has taste receptors that enable us to identify saltiness, sweetness, sourness, bitterness and umami, which is a   savory, rich taste that is often described as “meaty” or “brothy”. In addition to the approximate 35 receptors on the tongue, it has been discovered that there are additional receptors in the brain, stomach, and even in the muscles.

For the sense of taste to be totally effective, an individual must also have a good sense of smell. This requires good use of about 400 aroma receptors.

Emotions can play a big part in what tastes good and what does not. When depressed, angry, or in pain, chances are that your wine will taste rather off, being much less enjoyable than it otherwise would. The atmosphere and surroundings can have a significant psychological impact on how you feel about the wine and the food you are eating.

What all this illustrates is that the sense of taste is very complex, leaving each of us with varying degrees of flavour interpretation that can fluctuate greatly depending on our mood and circumstances. Thus, there are not only many opinions on what wine and food combinations go well together, but also that what pairs well may be based on a multitude of unidentified external factors. We humans can be very complicated beings and thus, we may have wide ranging opinions as to what wine and food combinations go well together.

Wine and food pairings are standards and suggestions but not a hard and fast rule. The bottom line is, you should match your food and wine in a manner that is most pleasurable to you and makes your meal enjoyable. I will continue to periodically write about suggested wine and food pairings but remember, these are only recommendations, not hard and fast rules.

Sláinte mhaith

The 2025 All Canadian Wine Championships

The All Canadian Wine Championships (ACWC) is open to all Canadian licensed wineries, cideries and meaderies and content must normally be grown and made in Canada. However, for this year, a new section was added, the international “Cellared in Canada” segment. These wines contain imported grapes or juice. The “Cellared in Canada” program was introduced in 2024 in response to the environmental disasters that severely impacted many British Columbia vineyards. No trophies were awarded for this special category.

As with previous years, the judges come from across Canada and include wine writers, sommeliers, and professional wine judges from the Wine Judges of Ontario. Some judges have been with the competition for more than twenty years.

Awards are presented for Gold, Silver and Bronze winners but the top scoring wine in each category is awarded Double Gold.

This year there were a total of 911 wines entered from 163 wineries.

The Trophy and Double Gold winners for grape wines are presented below. For the complete listing of award winners, visit the ACWC website at www.allcanadianwinechampionships.com/acwc-2025-results/. All prices are expressed in Canadian dollars.

The 2025 Trophy Awards were presented to:

Best Sparkling Wine of the Year

Time Family of Wines, British Columbia – 2018 Evolve Brut Nature – $49.99

Best Red Wine of the Year

Creekside Estate Winery (Diamond Estate Wines and Spirits), Ontario – 2020 Shiraz – $15.95

Best White Wine of the Year

Solvero Wines, British Columbia – 2022 Chardonnay – $40.25

Best Dessert Wine of the Year

Pillitteri Estates Winery Inc., Ontario – 2019 Racina Riesling Icewine – $40.00

Best Rosé Wine of the Year

Keint-he Winery and Vineyards Ltd., Ontario – 2023 Portage Rosé – $24.80

Best Fruit Wine of the Year

Maan Farms Estate Winery, British Columbia – N/V Strawberry Dessert – $29.41

Best Cider of the Year

Archibald Orchards & Winery, Ontario – N/V Hard Ginger – $13.80

Best Mead of the Year

Miel Nature Inc., Quebec – N/V Pomme et miel – $20.00

The 2025 Double Gold medal winners were the following:

Sparkling Wine-Traditional Method

Time Family of Wines, British Columbia – 2018 Evolve Brut Rosé – $49.99

Sparkling Wine–Charmat Method

Monte Creek Winery, British Columbia – 2022 Living Land Sparkling – $27.59

Sparkling Wine–Frizzante Method

Cherry Point Estate Wines, British Columbia – 2024 Spritzy Rosé – $33.40

Chardonnay, Unoaked

Strewn, Ontario – 2023 Distinctive Small Lot Chardonnay Musque – $24.92

Chardonnay Under $35.00

Deep Roots Winery, British Columbia – 2023 Reserve Chardonnay – $34.90

Chardonnay Over $35.00

Solvero Wines, British Columbia – 2022 Chardonnay – $40.25 “Best White Wine of the Year

Riesling Dry

Three Sisters Winery, British Columbia – 2023 Riesling – $28.75

Riesling Off Dry

Huff Estates Winery, Ontario – 2023 Day Tripping Riesling – $20.00

Sauvignon Blanc

Featherstone Winery, Ontario – 2024 Sauvignon Blanc – $17.95

Gewürztraminer

Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery, British Columbia – 2023 Gewürztraminer – $26.00

Pinot Gris Style

Alderlea Vineyards, British Columbia – 2024 Pinot Gris – $26.45

Pinot Grigio Style

Volcanic Hills Estate Winery, British Columbia – 2024 Pinot Gris – $28.74

Viognier

Rainmaker Wines, British Columbia – 2022 Viognier Rainmaker – $30.00

Other Single Vitis Vinifera Whites

Chaberton Estate Winery, British Columbia – 2024 Estate Grown Siegerrebe – $19.95

White Vitis Vinifera Blends

Alderlea Vineyards, British Columbia – 2024 Valerie – $26.45

Single White Hybrids

Magnetic Hill Winery, New Brunswick – 2024 The OC Osceola by the Sea – $20.00

White Hybrid Blends

Bear River Vineyards, Nova Scotia – 2024 Greater Yellowlegs – $25.00

Orange Wines

The Good Earth Food and Wine Co., Ontario – 2023 Chardonnay Musque Orange – $23.80

Rosé Dry

Keint-he Winery and Vineyards Ltd., Ontario – 2023 Portage Rosé – $24.80 “Best Rosé of the Year

Rosé Off Dry

Kismet Estate Winery, British Columbia – 2024 Phulkari Rosé – $29.89

Cabernet Sauvignon $35 and Under

Black Sage Vineyard, British Columbia – 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – $32.99

Cabernet Sauvignon Over $35.00

Laughing Stock Vineyards, British Columbia – 2022 Market Darling – $60.00

Merlot $35 and Under

Bordertown Vineyard & Estate Winery, British Columbia – 2020 Merlot – $25.00

Merlot Over $35.00

Pillitteri Estates Winery Inc., Ontario – 2020 Exclamation Merlot – $60.00

Pinot Noir $35 and Under

Keint-he Winery and Vineyards Ltd., Ontario – 2022 Portage Pinot Noir – $24.80

Pinot Noir Over $35.00

16 Mile Cellar, Ontario – 2022 Tenacity Pinot Noir – $59.80

Cabernet Franc $35 and Under

Pillitteri Estates Winery Inc., Ontario – 2020 Carretto Cabernet Franc – $28.00

Cabernet Franc Over $35.00

Bella Terra Vineyards, Ontario – 2022 Cabernet Franc – $49.72

Bordeaux Blends $35 and Under

Magnotta Winery, Ontario – 2019 Magnotta Meritage Gran Riserva VQA – $31.95

Bordeaux Blends Over $35.00

Dirty Laundry Winery, British Columbia – 2020 Bordello – $44.99

Syrah/Shiraz $35 and Under

Creekside Estate Winery (Diamond Estate Wines and Spirits), Ontario – 2020 Shiraz – $15.95 “Best Red Wine of the Year

Syrah/Shiraz Over $35.00

Moraine Estate Winery, British Columbia – 2022 Syrah – $39.00

Single Red Hybrids

Magnetic Hill Winery, New Brunswick, – N/V Terroir Generator New World Cali Style – $30.00

Red Hybrid Blends

Planters Ridge Winery, Nova Scotia – 2022 Quintessence Red – $25.36

Other Single Red Vitis Vinifera

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery, Ontario – 2022 Petit Verdot – $39.95

Other Red Vitis Vinifera Blends

Nk’Mip Cellars   British Columbia, – 2022 Winemakers Talon – $32.99

Marechal Foch

Alderlea Vineyards, British Columbia – 2023 Clarinet – $27.60

Malbec

Rainmaker Wines, British Columbia – 2022 Malbec – $40.00

Gamay

Hillside Winery & Bistro, British Columbia – 2021 Founder’s Block Gamay Noir – $45.00

Appassimento Style

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery, Ontario – 2023 Appassimento Cabernet Franc Hawks Flight Reserve – $44.80

NEW SEGMENT FOR 2025 – INTERNATIONAL “CELLARED IN CANADA”

Single Red Vitus Vinifera

Devonian Coast Wineries, Nova Scotia – N/V Ducks Crossing Cabernet Sauvignon – $13.67

Sparkling

Moraine Estate Winery, British Columbia – 2024 Shipuchka Frizzante – $28.00

Single White Vitus Vinifera

See ya Later Ranch, British Columbia – 2024 Pinot Gris – $19.99

White Vitus Vinifera Blends

Sunnybrae Vineyards & Winery, British Columbia – 2024 Twisted Path Washington – $24.73

Rosé

Arterra Wines Canada, British Columbia – 2024 Saintly Rosé – $20.99

DESSERT WINES

Late Harvests

Vignoble Rivière du Chêne, Quebec – 2024 Cuvée Glacée des Laurentides – $28.05

White Icewines (Riesling, Vidal, Other)

Pillitteri Estates Winery Inc., Ontario – 2019 Racina Riesling Icewine – $40.00 “Best Dessert Wine of the Year

Red Icewines

Magnotta Winery, Ontario – 2019 Magnotta Cabernet Franc Icewine Limited Edition VQA – $44.95

Grape Fortifieds

Moraine Estate Winery, British Columbia – 2022 O’port – $47.00

Next up on the championship list will be the National Wine Awards. The results should be released around mid-July.

Sláinte mhaith

Bordeaux’s Sauternes Region

The final Bordeaux winery visit on our recent trip to France was to Château La Tour Blanche in the Sauternes region. The Sauternes Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée covers approximately 2,000 hectares and includes five communes: Barsac, Bommes, Fargues, Preignac and Sauternes.

La Tour Blanche estate, like most of the Crus Classés of the appellation, is located on a ridge elevating It 60 meters above sea level. This provides good exposure of the vines and better drainage of the land. The terroir provides a gravelly surface and a clay-limestone subsoil, which give a particular character to the wines produced.

The three traditional white grape varieties of the Sauternes Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée vineyard are Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Château La Tour Blanche grows 83% Sémillon, 12% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle.

Photo credit: tour-blanche.com

The Sémillon grapes provide the structure, give the wine its beautiful Golden colour and its aromas of dried fruits, candied fruits and honey. Sauvignon Blanc produces a very fine, full-bodied, and aromatic wine and creates the beautiful freshness in the blend. The Muscadelle adds to the unique style of the wines, bringing additional aromatic complexity thanks to its delicate scent of muscat grain and its spicy notes.

Like many of the wineries in Bordeaux, Château La Tour Blanche has already taken numerous steps to improve its environmental performance. They have imposed demanding specifications on sustainable development. In recent years, they have introduced waste reprocessing and confined spraying. Château La Tour Blanche is HVE 3 certified (High Environmental Values) and is a member of the first association for the Environmental Management System (EMS) of Bordeaux Wine certified ISO 14001.

The grapes arriving at the winery are botrytized (see my post, Dessert Wines from April 18, 2020), full of sugar. Once selected on the sorting table and pressed, the grapes produce musts in which the action of Noble Rot will have produced a reduction in acidity as well as an increase in sugar content. The average yield does not exceed 10 to 15 hectoliters per hectare at the La Tour Blanche estate, due to strict selection.

Only musts reaching an average of between 20 and 22 degrees of potential alcohol are selected for the 1er Cru Classé. The slightly less concentrated juices will be used to produce the second or third wines.

Unfortunately, I was unable to attend and sample any of the wines that day because of an unexpected visit to see a Bordeaux ophthalmologist as a result of a torn retina, which is now repaired. I may have to make a return trip to the region to experience what I missed.

Sláinte mhaith

The Left Bank’s Margaux Appellation

On my recent excursion to Bordeaux, France, I travelled to the Left Bank’s Margaux appellation where I visited Château Dauzac, which is a Margaux Grand Cru Classé according to the 1855 classification. Their vineyards span 49 hectares.

All the wines utilize gravity-flow vatting. Fermentation takes place in wooden vats with transparent double staves. The wine was aged in 100% French oak barrels (including 65% new barrels) for 15 months with racking based on tasting results.

Dedicated to the expression of terroir and dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, Château Dauzac reveals a nicely complex bouquet that slowly unfolds during aeration. On the palate, it strikes a subtle balance between the richness of its tannins and the aromatic diversity of its supple fruits, emblematic of great wines for ageing.

Cabernet Sauvignon dominates with its complexity, elegance and minerality, while Merlot adds roundness and silkiness. Always deep in colour, Château Dauzac expresses a subtle balance where fruits, flowers and spices are combined, with a complex body and tannins ensuring an emotional tasting experience.

Like many of the wineries in the region, Château Dauzac is committed to reducing its carbon footprint. They have formed a partnership with Bioboon Agrology. Together they are working toward the ecological transition of agricultural activities that promote plant health while preserving the surrounding biodiversity.

They have also planted bamboo on the estate. The bamboo acts as an essential carbon sequestration mechanism, offsetting the residual emissions of their carbon-neutral wine. This initiative reduces the environmental impact of the winery’s activities.

Château Dauzac is also investing in research and development to fight against mildew. The aim is to use natural products free of heavy metals to preserve the health of their vines and the balance of the surrounding ecosystem.

The terroir is a clay-based soil that contains deep gravel outcrops. The vines have an average age of 35 to 40 years. The grape varietals consist of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 2% Petit-Verdot. The grapes are harvested by hand in small crates and sorted on tables before and after de-stemming.

The first wine that I sampled at Château Dauzac was the 2021 “Aurore de Dauzac Margaux”, which is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. It is bright red with ruby hues and a nose of red fruit with a slightly floral expression. The flavour displays a pleasant concentration with notes of black fruit.

The second wine I tasted was the 2019 Margaux Grande Cru Classé. Château Dauzac 2019 is a wine that expresses exceptional fruit vibrancy. It is very well-balanced and composed of dense tannins that exhibit finesse and elegance. It consists of a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot.

I was surprised to see how much my wife enjoyed this wine as she usually prefers the Right Bank Merlot concentrated wines over the Left Bank Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wines. In fact, she enjoyed it so much that we decided to have some shipped home. When making the shipping arrangements we were told that the 2022 vintage would be more superior to the 2019, given the climate conditions that existed that year. The only caveat was that the 2022 would not reach its full potential for another 10 years.

We then decided that we would purchase some of the 2022 vintage as well to ship home. The 2022 wine consists of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37 % Merlot. The overall yield was small due to the lack of water but the remarkable quality will make the 2022 vintage one of the greatest ever experienced in Bordeaux.

I was pleased to learn that Château Dauzac wines are occasionally available in Ontario liquor stores. I will be eagerly awaiting the next vintage to appear on store shelves.

Sláinte mhaith

The Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux Appellation

On the Right Bank, near the village of Bourg, I had the opportunity to visit Chateau Monconseil-Gazin, a third-generation family preserved estate winery owned by the Baudet family. The wines produced are part of the Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux appellation.

The vineyard’s hilly terrain benefits from a microclimate caused by the proximity of the estuary and the Atlantic Ocean. The clay-limestone soils rest on a soft rock substrate that is very favorable to the roots of the vines and perfect for drainage.

The 35 hectares of gentle slopes facing south and southwest predominantly grow the Merlot grape variety, complemented by Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.

The first wine that I tasted was the 2023 “Blaye Côtes De Bordeaux”, a white Sauvignon. The vines are cultivated according to the sustainable agriculture charter for the development and protection of the terroir. No chemical fertilizers are used.

The wine consists of 100% Sauvignon Blanc that is aged on fine lees, which are the smaller, more gradual sediment that settles at the bottom of a fermentation vessel after winemaking. The fine lees age with the wine, adding complexity, texture, and flavour. The wine is bottled at the Château.

The terroir is a clay-limestone on stony subsoil, providing excellent drainage and deep roots. The slopes face south-southwest, ensuring optimal maturity of the grapes.

This wine’s aroma contains notes of citrus and flowers and has a smooth crisp palate. The finish is long, fresh and fruity.

The second wine I had was the “Blaye Côtes De Bordeaux – Blanc Prestige”, made of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon. This wine releases an elegant nose of lychee and citrus fruit complemented by a light oakiness. The palate is dense and smooth, with a freshness that lingers through to the finish.

The third wine I sampled was the 2020 “Blaye Côtes De Bordeaux” red. Once again, the vines are cultivated according to the sustainable agriculture charter for the development and protection of the terroir, using no chemical fertilizers.

The wine is produced from 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Malbec grapes. It is aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, then blended and lightly filtered before being bottled at the Château.

The terroir is clay-limestone hillsides on a stony subsoil, excellent for drainage and rooting.  The vineyard slopes are south/southwest facing, ensuring optimal maturity of the grapes.

The flavour has hints of woody and toasty accents accompanied by notes of violet, blackberry, crème de cassis, tobacco leaf and sage. There is an abundance of young fruit with tannins and acidity.

This wine has had more than twenty years of recognition by the most prestigious competitions in France and internationally: Mâcon, Paris, Aquitaine, Challenge International du Vin, Brussels and London.

The last wine I tasted was the 2019 “Grande Réserve”, which is made from 50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec and 10% Cabernet Franc. The wine was matured in French oak barrels (50% new) for 18 months, blended and lightly filtered and then bottled at the Château.

This wine offers ripe fruit and notes of mocha, toast and vanilla. The tannins are tight and the flavours are full.

This wine has been recognized by the most prestigious competitions and specialist magazines such as the HACHETTE Guide, the Revue des Vins de France, Decanter and In Vino Veritas.

My wife and I enjoyed this one enough that we purchased a bottle to drink after our day’s explorations. Unfortunately, Chateau Monconseil Gazin wines are not currently available in Ontario liquor stores.

Sláinte mhaith

The Médoc Area of Saint-Émilion

The first area I explored on my recent trip to France’s Bordeaux region was Médoc, which is situated on the Right Bank. The name Médoc is synonymous with exceptional wines. Considered as one of the world’s leading red wine producers, Médoc has been a winemaking region since the 18th century, with more than 16,000 hectares of vineyards across eight sub-appellations.

In Médoc, which is part of the Saint-Émilion appellation that has over 800 Chateaux, I visited the family-owned winery, Château Fleur Cardinale. The terroir consists of a mix of clay and limestone. Typical of Right Bank wineries, their wines consist of a blend of around 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The blended portions vary slightly from year to year depending on the yield of each grape varietal.

La Maison Cardinale was established in 2001, when Dominique and Florence Decoster acquired Château Fleur Cardinale. In 2017, their son Ludovic and his wife Caroline took the reins of the family estate. In 2024, they created La Maison Cardinale, an entity that brings together Château Fleur Cardinale, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, and Château Croix Cardinale, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru.

They have two estates, Château Fleur Cardinale and Château Croix Cardinale. Château Fleur Cardinale covers 27.6 hectares on the northern slope, producing a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé. The northern slope is also ideal to produce Fleur Cardinale white, in the Bordeaux appellation. Château Croix Cardinale covers 4 hectares on the southern slope, producing a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru.

While there I had the opportunity to sample 2023 “Cardinal Flower Intuition Saint-Emilion Grand Cru” and the 2019 “Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru”. The Intuition had an intense aromatic profile of ripe black fruits. There were subtle tannins and a supple, fresh texture. The Grand Cru Classé had a sensation of fresh and intense fruit, both on the nose and in the mouth. In my opinion it was much smoother and better balanced than the Cardinal Flower Intuition.

The grapes for both wines are picked by hand. There are about 15,000 bottles of Cardinal Flower Intuition produced each year and 105,000 bottles of the Grand Cru Classé. About 80% of the wine is sold to wine agents for export with the balance being sold from the winery. Unfortunately, Château Fleur Cardinale wines do not appear to be available in Ontario liquor stores.

Sláinte mhaith

My Adventure to Bordeaux

I recently returned from a trip to the Bordeaux region of France where I took advantage of the opportunity to experience some of the finest wines in the world.

The effects of climate change are impacting the grape harvests there the same as they are in many other parts of the world. The region is facing increasing temperatures and drought conditions each year. Not helping matters is the governing regulation that prohibits vineyards to irrigate vines that are more than 3 years old.

To help try and offset the effects of climate change, I saw horses being used in place of tractors to till the weeds that were growing between the rows of grape vines, lessening the need for herbicides and reducing the generation of carbon monoxide.

The Bordeaux region is separated into 2 distinct areas: the Left Bank and the Right Bank. To help identify which is which, the city of Bordeaux is situated on the Left Bank.

Bordeaux’s wine areas are often categorized into five main zones, primarily based on their location in relation to the Gironde, Garonne, and Dordogne rivers. These zones are: The Médoc, Graves and Sauternais, The Libournais, Blaye and Bourg and Entre-Deux-Mers.  During our trip I visited wineries on both the Left Bank and Right Bank.

The Left Bank, often referred to as the Médoc and Graves, produces red wines, while the Right Bank, including Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, also focuses on red wines. Entre-Deux-Mers produces both red and white wines, and the Graves and Sauternais are known for their sweet white wines.

There are five Bordeaux wine classifications. These classifications serve as an expression of quality and prestige worldwide. The principle of the crus classés (“classified growths”) illustrates the synthesis of a terroir’s typical characteristics and dedicated human intervention over many generations to ensure quality. However, a wine or appellation can still be outstanding even if it is not a part of these classifications. The classifications are listed in order of seniority:

  • The 1855 classification
  • The Graves classification
  • The Saint-Émilion classification
  • The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc classification
  • The Crus Artisans classification

For a winery in Bordeaux to be referred to as a Château, the property must include a large house, vineyards and a place to make wine.

The age of the vines impacts the quality of the Bordeaux wine. The older the vine, the more expensive the wine. The roots on old vines extend much deeper and extend further int the soil. This adds minerality to the fruit, which in turn adds complexity to the flavour of the wine.

One thing I found interesting on this trip was how the various winery staff pronounced Cabernet Franc. I was always under the impression that Cabernet Franc was pronounced as the French do, with the ‘c’ in Franc being silent – ka·br·nay frong, but I now found out that it is acceptable to pronounce it in English as ka·br·nay frank.

Over the next few weeks I will describe my adventures through the region, as well as the wineries I had the opportunity to experience.

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Dessert Wine Trends

As the name suggests, dessert wine is a sweet wine that is intended to be served alongside dessert. These wines are often rich in flavour and have a high sugar content.

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There has been a growing demand for premium dessert wines aimed at satisfying consumer demand for high-quality and unique flavours. This has driven market growth by enticing wineries to improve and enhance their product offerings and release new artisanal options, which in turn command higher price points and increased revenue.

There is rising interest in low-alcohol dessert wines by health-conscious Millennials and the Gen Z population who desire lighter wines. These wines also appeal to a broad range of wellness seekers, thus enhancing market growth.

Again, health-conscious and ethically driven drinkers are creating demand for vegan and allergen-free wine alternatives. By excluding animal-derived fining agents, which are added to wine to alter its colour, flavour, texture, and clarity, new dessert wine markets become available. These agents include additives such as casein or gelatin.

There are generally five types of dessert wine. Thirty percent of the market is made up of fortified wines, consisting of Port, Sherry, Madeira and Marsala.

Late harvest wines are next, consisting of twenty-five percent of the dessert wine market. Included in this category are Late Harvest Riesling, Late Harvest Sémillon and Late Harvest Gewürztraminer.

Controlling twenty percent of the market is Ice Wine. Included are Eiswein and Ice Cider.

Botrytized Wines, also referred to as Noble Rot, consist of fifteen percent of the market. For an explanation of this type of wine, refer to my post, Dessert Wines from April 18, 2020. Wines in tis group include Sauternes and Tokaji Aszú.

The “Other” wine category make up the remaining ten percent of the dessert wine market. Included in this catch-all category is Recioto della Valpolicella, Vin Santo and Muscat / Moscato.

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Portugal’s Douro Valley Wine Region

The Douro Valley is the oldest established wine region in the world, dating back to 1756. It was first renown for its Port production. However, from a tourism perspective, it has only been popular for the past couple of decades, after being declared as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001.

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The Douro Valley region is no longer just know for its Port, but also for an increasing number of dry red wines often made from the same native grape varieties. A much smaller number of quality white wines are also now produced.

The viticultural zone covers the steep slopes along the banks of the lower ranges of the Douro River. The river flows from northern Spain, where it is called the Duero. The river finally reaches the Atlantic Ocean at Oporto. The vineyards stretch up the steep, dry slopes on either side of the river.

There are three subregions in the Douro, each covering its own section of the river.  Of these, the Douro Superior region is the furthest inland. It is covered in terraced vineyards and takes up about 20 percent of available vineyard land in Douro.

The central part of the Douro region, centered around the village of Pinhão, is the Cima Corgo region. It is where most of the prestigious Vintage Port originates from.

Cima Corgo is the largest subregion, accounting for almost half of the valley’s total wine production. The vineyards are steep with the vines nearer the river generally ripening much earlier than those at higher elevations. For this reason, the harvest is often completed in multiple sweeps of the same vineyard.

Nearest Oporto and the coast is the Baixo Corgo subregion. This area is best suited to produce table wines. The area is cooler and wetter than the other regions and more accessible, easily enabling bulk-wine operations to function.

Both the Douro’s still and fortified wines can be made from more than 80 different grape varieties. However, the vineyards are dominated by five key varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao and Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo). Of these, aromatic Touriga Nacional is the most highly regarded, but Touriga Franca is the most planted.

As recently as twenty years ago, Portugal produced very little quality still wine. However, since then it has become world renowned not only for Port but also for its DOC Douro still wines

There are several international varieties of grapes grown in the Douro valley, particularly to produce table wines. The most common of these are Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer.

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