Aging and Wine Vintage

July 20, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Before I begin let’s be clear on what ‘vintage wines’ are. Vintage wines are wines that are produced from grapes harvested during a single growing season as opposed to non-vintage wines, which can be produced from grapes grown in two or more growing seasons.

Vintage wines that are cellared go through ongoing chemical effects that will continue until a bottle is uncorked. These outcomes are the result of continuous interactions between the wine’s alcohol, sugar and acid compounds, which combine in the bottle to create new complex flavours, textures and aromas. However, these results are not random. Skilled winemakers understand the chemistry behind aging wine and will manipulate the cellar environment to encourage various flavours and aromas that result in an appealing good vintage.

During cellaring the varietal’s natural flavours do not significantly change. A wine’s primary flavours will always be preserved regardless of cellaring timelines. These flavours are a result of the grape varietal and the conditions the grapes grew in.

However, aging a vintage varietal will affect the secondary and tertiary flavours and aromas. Both notes result from the winemaker’s techniques as well as the chemical interactions between a wine’s natural compounds. These activities define an aging wine.

White wines, especially dry whites like Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay, tend to become oily, heavy and stickier over time. Red wines, particularly those with naturally high tannin levels such as Nebbiolo, Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon, tend to soften with time. This creates sediment that collects at the bottom of a bottle. As a result, the wine becomes smoother and less sharp, resulting in a gentler drinking experience.

The final characteristic affected by aging wine is colour. To see if a red wine has been properly aged, first look at the outer edge where the poured wine meets the glass. At that meeting point, which is referred to as the rim, the wine will appear lighter in colour. A young red wine, on the other hand, will have a rim that appears murky or opaque.

As red wines oxidize with age, their colours often change to deep shades of ruby-purple to softened mauves and then finally to tawny, deep browns. As white wine ages it tends to move from paler, straw-yellow shades to deeper golden hues. White vintages aged three or more years can eventually darken to the point of turning a golden amber color.

These changes in colour are the result of oxidation. When a wine bottle is properly sealed the only oxygen in a bottle will be the small amount trapped in the bottle’s neck, as well as what little oxygen passes through the cork or seal. Most cellared red and white vintages will be sealed with a traditional cork, which allows minimal oxygen to permeate. However, given that cork is itself a natural non-uniform product, oxygen permeation will vary significantly even between bottles cellared and cased at the same time.

Not all wines are created with the ability to be aged. The wine maker’s notes are often a good indication of a wine’s aging capability. Red wines that generally age well include:

Bordeaux and Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, aged 2 to 4 years
Chianti Riserva, aged 2 to 4 years
Petite Syrah, aged 2 to 5 years
New World Nebbiolo, aged 2 to 6 years
Australian and Californian Grenache, aged 2 to 10 years
Italian or Californian Cabernet Sauvignons, aged 3 to 15 years
Italian Barolo, aged 3 to 15 years

White wines with aging capability include:

Dry White Bordeaux, aged 2 to 3 years
Alsace Pinot Gris, 2 to 5 years
White Rioja, aged 2 to 5 years
Alsace Gewürztraminer, aged 2 to 10 years
Californian Fume Blanc, aged 2 to 10 years
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, aged 3 to 10 years
Australian Chardonnay, 3 to 10 years
German Riesling, 3 to 15 years

These lists are only a suggested guideline, not an exclusive list.

Sláinte mhaith

Vintage versus Non-vintage Wine

July 13, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

On the surface, the difference between vintage and non-vintage wines is simple. Vintage wines are made from grapes harvested during a single growing season, while non-vintage wines can blend a few different harvests. Non-vintage wine, sometimes referred to as stylized wine, is where the winemaker often aims to match the flavour of the wine to be the same as previous years. On the other hand, vintage wines are based on the characteristics of the vineyard and climate. Due to climatic conditions, some years produce wines that are considered better than others.

Finding a bottle’s vintage is relatively straightforward. Simply look for the year printed on the label of the bottle. This tells you when the grapes were grown and the wine produced was made. Wine labels containing the description “single vintage” indicate that the wine was produced exclusively from grapes from a single harvest. Depending on the producing country, that ratio must be comprised of 75% to 95% of same-crop grapes. As long as a producer abides by that percentage, they can label their bottle as vintage.

The vintage is an indication of the quality of the wine. The wine flavours, textures, mouthfeel, aroma and bouquets are fundamentally determined by the weather and climate conditions during its specific growing season. Since vintage tells you what year those grapes were grown, you are provided with an accurate distinction between “good” crop years yielding delicious, balanced wines from “bad” crop years hindered by poor weather.

Non-vintage wines are wines created by blending grapes from multiple crops. As a result, they will not have a year printed on the label or will simply have “N.V.” to denote the fact its contents are not from a single harvest. Non-vintage wine quality will vary, as with vintage wines. Many are raved about for their consistency and cost-consciousness and represent good value for more casual wine drinking.

Which is better? The answer depends on what you are looking for from your drinking experience. There are wonderful single vintages and non-vintages available. Non-vintages will offer more diversity and flexibility, particularly when it comes to blends combining several complementary grape varietals. In contrast, vintages provide the opportunity to discover a specific wine region, a micro-climate and even a winemaker’s bottling skills and expertise in ways non-vintages cannot.

Sláinte mhaith

Biodynamic Wine

July 6, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

While visiting a winery in the Beaujolais district of France a few weeks ago I was introduced to a new term. I was told that the winery I was visiting was a biodynamic winery. This was a description I had not heard before, so I decided to research the topic in more depth when I returned home from my trip.

You may be familiar with what organic farming entails (if not, see my post Organic Wine from August 8, 2020), however the biodynamic movement is somewhat different. According to the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association, biodynamics is “a spiritual-ethical-ecological approach to agriculture, gardens, food production and nutrition.” Biodynamic wine is made with a set of farming practices that views the vineyard as one solid organism. The ecosystem functions with each portion of the vineyard contributing to the next. Conceptually, everything in the universe is interconnected and gives off a resonance or ‘vibe’. This interconnectivity even includes celestial bodies like the moon, planets and stars. Biodynamic viticulture is the practice of balancing this resonance between vine, human, earth and stars. Biodynamics is a holistic view of agriculture.

As with organic farming, natural materials, soils, and composts are used to sustain the vineyard. Chemical fertilizers and pesticides are not permitted. A range of animals from ducks to horses to sheep live on the soil and fertilize it, creating a rich, fertile environment for the vines to grow in. Biodynamic farming also seeks sustainability, leaving the land in as good or better condition.

Biodynamic farming has been met with skepticism by many scientists as some of the practices are difficult at best to prove they work. In addition to organic practices, biodynamic farming takes other factors into account, such as the lunar calendar and astrology. This method of farming considers all aspects of life in the vineyard — other plants, insects and animals. It’s not just about the grapes.

Farming practices from pruning to harvesting are controlled by the biodynamic calendar. It breaks all the tasks associated with farming into four types of days: root days, flower days, fruit days and leaf days. Each of these categories has certain tasks associated with it that are reflective of the earth’s four classical elements. Fruit days are meant for harvesting, leaf days for watering, root days for pruning. On flower days, nothing is done in the vineyard.

Biodynamic farming calls for specific and sometimes strange compost and field preparations. One of these is known as cow horn manure. Cow horns are stuffed with manure compost and buried into the ground all through the winter, then excavated the following spring. When excavated, the stuffed material is spread throughout the vineyard.

Biodynamic wines must be certified and adhere to strict rules and regulations. The wineries are overseen by 2 governing bodies, Demeter International and Biodyvin.

Biodynamic wines can be found in the United States, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Eastern Europe, Chile, Argentina, India and Australia. Those who believe in the philosophy feel that the wines are more characteristic to the terroir where they originate. However, wine experts say there is no noticeable difference in the taste of biodynamic wine from organically produced wines. Is the difference worth the additional effort? You be the judge.

Sláinte mhaith

2024 All Canadian Wine Championships

June 22, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / 2 Comments

The All Canadian Wine Championships (ACWC) were held earlier this month. It is open to all Canadian licensed wineries, cideries and meaderies and content must be grown and made in Canada. This year there were 995 entries submitted by 173 wineries.

The panel of judges consisted of wine writers, sommeliers, and professional wine judges from the Wine Judges of Ontario. There were 10 judges from Ontario, 2 from Alberta and 1 from each of Quebec and New Brunswick.

The 2024 trophy winners were as follows:

The Best Sparkling Wine of the Year was presented to British Columbia’s (BC) Bench 1775 Winery, for their 2020 Blanc de Blanc ($39.75 CDN).

The Best Red Wine of the Year was BC’s Sunrock Vineyard’s 2021 Shiraz ($40.24 CDN).

The Best White Wine of the Year was awarded to BC’s Van Westen Vineyards, for their 2022 Viscous ($27.40 CDN).

The Best Dessert Wine of the Year was Quebec’s Vignoble du Marathonien, for their 2021 Vin de glace ($50.00 CDN).

The Best Rosé Wine of the Year was awarded to yet another BC winery, Hester Creek Estate Winery, for their 2023 Rosé Noir ($32.19 CDN).

The Best Fruit Wine of the Year was presented to another BC winery, Maan Farms Winery, for their N/V Raspberry Dessert ($29.99 CDN).

The Best Cider of the Year was Nova Scotia’s Domaine de Grand Pré, for their N/V Vintage Sparkling Cider ($29.00 CDN).

The Best Mead of the Year was presented to Manitoba’s Shrugging Doctor Beverage Co, for their N/V Apple Cinnamon Mead ($18.47 CDN).

Double Gold, Gold, Silver and Bronze medals may be awarded in each category. Double Gold and Gold medals were presented to the following participants:

Sparkling Wine-Traditional Method

Gold

Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2021 Lush Sparkling Rosé – $57.80
Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2020 Blanc de Franc – $63.80
Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery, ON – N/V Brut – $44.80

Sparkling Wine–Charmat Method

Double Gold

Bella Terra Vineyards, ON – N/V Sparkling Rose – $24.95

Gold

Three Dog Winery, ON – 2023 Debut Sparkling – $27.80
Harbour Estates, ON – 2023 Sparkling Riesling – $25.00

Sparkling Wine–Frizzante Method

Double Gold

Planters Ridge Winery, NS – 2022 SEK – $22.43

Gold

Jost Vineyards, NS – N/V Luvo Sparkling White – $5.89

Chardonnay, Unoaked

Double Gold

Calamus Estate Winery, ON – 2023 Unoaked Chardonnay – $18.95

Gold

Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2023 Select Series Unoaked Chardonnay – $15.95

Chardonnay Under $35.00

Double Gold

Wending Home, ON – 2021 Chardonnay Estate Vineyards – $34.95

Gold

Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2022 Barrel Aged Chardonnay – $27.05
Solvero Wines, BC – 2022 Chardonnay – $34.60
Magnotta Winery, ON – 2020 G. Marquis Chardonnay VQA – The Silver Line – $19.75

Chardonnay Over $35.00

Double Gold

Nk’Mip Cellars BC – 2022 Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay – $41.39

Gold

Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2022 Premium Series Barrel Fermented Chardonnay – $49.95
SpearHead Winery, BC – 2022 Chardonnay Clone 95 – $41.40

Riesling Dry

Double Gold

Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery, BC – 2023 Riesling Dry – $28.74

Gold

Broken Stone Winery, ON – 2023 Riesling – $21.75

Riesling Off Dry

Gold

Gaspereau Vineyards, NS – 2023 Riesling – $23.79
Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery, ON – 2020 Riesling Loved By Lu – $18.75

Sauvignon Blanc

Double Gold

Dirty Laundry Vineyard, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $25.29

Gold

River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $27.49
Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $27.60

Gewürztraminer

Double Gold

Wild Goose Vineyards, BC – 2023 Gewürztraminer – $19.99

Gold

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery, ON – 2022 Gewürztraminer – $20.75
Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Gewürztraminer – $21.80

Pinot Gris Style

Double Gold

Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Pinot Gris – $26.45

Gold

Hillside Winery & Bistro, BC – 2023 Unoaked Pinot Gris – $25.00
River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Gris – $27.49
Villa Romana Estate Winery, ON – 2023 Pinotino – $24.95

Pinot Grigio Style

Double Gold

Kismet Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Grigio – $26.44

Gold

Three Dog Winery, ON – 2023 Pinot Grigio – $19.75
Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2023 Okanagan Estate Pinot Grigio – $20.69

Viognier

Double Gold

Hester Creek Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Viognier – $27.59

Gold

Bordertown Vineyard & Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Viognier – $21.90

Other Single Vitis Vinifera Whites

Double Gold

Scorched Earth Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Noir Blanc – $22.95

Gold

Wild Goose Vineyards, BC – 2023 Pinot Blanc – $21.99
Bonamici Cellars Ltd., BC – 2022 Observatory Gruner Veltliner – $28.74

White Vitis Vinifera Blends

Double Gold

Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2022 White Mer’r’iym – $41.39

Gold

Hillside Winery & Bistro, BC – 2023 Chef’s Whites – $35.00
Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Valerie – $26.45
River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Splash – $26.34

Single White Hybrids

Double Gold

Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2023 Living Land Frontenac Gris – $25.29

Gold

Planters Ridge Winery, NS – 2022 L’Acadie – $18.52
Valley of the Springs, BC – 2023 Epicure – $25.30

White Hybrid Blends

Double Gold

Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2023 Hands Up White – $22.99

Gold

Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Dead End Skrewd – $25.00

Pet Nat

Double Gold

Bench 1775, BC – 2022 Blanc de Blanc Ancestral – $39.99

Gold

Trail Estate Winery, ON – 2022 White Pét Nat – $36.00

Orange Wines

Double Gold

Byland Estate Winery, ON – 2021 Skin Fermented White Chardonnay – $28.00

Gold

Last House Vineyard, ON – 2021 Electrum – $29.00

Rosés Dry

Gold

Creekside Estate Winery Ltd., ON – 2023 Rosé – $15.95
Chaberton Estate WInery, BC – 2023 La Fleur de Chaberton – $27.55
Lakeview Wine Co., ON – N/V 20 Bees Rosé – $13.95

Rosés Off Dry

Double Gold

Gaspereau Vineyards, NS – 2022 Rosé – $23.79

Gold

Richibucto River Wine Estate, NB – 2020 Camrose – $16.63
Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Chaberton Pink – $21.80
Three Sisters Winery, BC – 2023 Rosé – $25.00

Cabernet Sauvignon Under $35

Double Gold

Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon – $31.00

Gold

Paglione Estate Winery, ON – 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – $21.95

Cabernet Sauvignon Over $35.00

Double Gold

Colio Estate Wines, ON – 2020 Small Lot Series Cabernet Sauvignon – $40.00

Gold

Kismet Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – $68.99

Merlot Under $35

Double Gold

Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery, BC – 2020 Merlot – $33.34

Gold

Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2021 Winemaker’s Merlot – $34.49
Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2020 Merlot – $32.20

Merlot Over $35.00

Double Gold

Wesbert Winery, BC – 2021 Merlot – $45.94

Gold

Priest Creek Family Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Merlot – $52.90
De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2021 Merlot – $59.80

Pinot Noir Under $35

Double Gold

The Grange of Prince Edward, ON – 2022 County Pinot Noir – $34.00

Gold

Cherry Point Estate Wines, BC – 2022 Pinot Noir – $32.90
Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2022 Okanagan Estate Pinot Noir – $25.29

Pinot Noir Over $35.00

Double Gold

Wending Home, ON – 2020 “Up Above” Pinot Noir – $42.95

Gold

Solvero Wines, BC – 2020 Pinot Noir – $40.35
SpearHead Winery, BC – 2022 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley – $41.40

Cabernet Franc Under $35

Double Gold

Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2022 Okanagan Estate Cabernet Franc – $29.89

Gold

Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Living Land Cabernet Franc – $31.04
Three Sisters Winery, BC – 2022 Cabernet Franc – $30.00

Cabernet Franc Over $35.00

Double Gold

Watchful Eye Winery, ON – 2021 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $41.95

Gold

Privato Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2022 Cabernet Franc – $40.24
Bordertown Vineyard & Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $49.90

Bordeaux Blends Under $35

Double Gold

Bench 1775, BC – 2021 Groove – $22.75

Gold

Clos du Soleil Winery, BC – 2021 Celestiale – $34.39
Sunrock, BC – 2020 Red Meritage – $34.49
Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Meritage Gran Riserva -$ 31.95

Bordeaux Blends Over $35.00

Double Gold

Moraine Winery, BC – 2021 Meritage – $42.00

Gold

Vanessa Vineyard Estate Winery Inc., BC – 2019 Right Bank – $57.49
Colio Estate Wines, ON – 2020 Small Lot Series Meritage – $40.00
Hainle Vyds Estate Winery Ltd., BC – 2022 Hainle’s Red Cuvee – $40.24

Syrah/Shiraz Under $35

Double Gold

Oxley Estate Winery, ON – 2020 Syrah Reserve – $32.95

Gold

Terralux Estate Winery, BC – 2018 Syrah – $34.99

Syrah/Shiraz Over $35.00

Gold

Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2020 Qwam Qwmt Syrah – $49.44
Moon Curser Vineyards, BC – 2022 Syrah – $37.94

Single Red Hybrids

Double Gold

Potter Settlement Artisan Winery, ON – 2020 Frontenac Rouge – $35.00

Gold

Front Road Cellars, ON – 2022 Marquette Canadian Oak – $23.95
Magnetic Hill Winery, NB – 2023 Terroir Generator TP 1-1-12 – $30.00

Red Hybrid Blends

Double Gold

Jost Vineyards, NS – N/V Luvo Simply Red – $5.89

Gold

Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Hands Up Red – $25.29
De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2023 De Simone Red – $24.80

Other Single Red Vitis Vinifera

Double Gold

Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2022 King’s Ransom Touriga Nacional – $74.75

Gold

Bonamici Cellars Ltd., BC – 2022 Sangiovese – $36.80

Other Red Vitis Vinifera Blends

Double Gold

Hester Creek Estate Winery, BC – 2022 GSM – $39.19

Gold

Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2023 Select Series Cabernet – $15.95
Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2021 Winemaker’s Talon – $37.99

Marechal Foch

Double Gold

Alderlea Vineyards,BC – 2022 Clarinet – $27.60

Gold

Skimmerhorn Winery, BC – 2022 Estate Reserve Foch – $31.00

Malbec

Double Gold

Nostalgia Wines Inc., BC – 2020 Malbec – $42.00

Gold

Moon Curser Vineyards, BC – 2022 Malbec – $43.69

Gamay

Double Gold

Deep Roots Winery, BC – 2022 Reserve Gamay – $34.90

Gold

Deep Roots Winery, BC – 2022 Gamay – $25.90
Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Living Land Gamay – $33.34

Appassimento Style

Double Gold

De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2019 Stallion – $154.80

Gold

Magnotta Winery, ON – 2020 Enotrium Gran Riserva – $59.75

FRUIT WINES

Soft Fruit Dry

Double Gold

Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – 2015 Black Currant – $30.00

Gold

Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – N/V Red Raspberry & Red Currant – $20.00

Soft Fruit Off-Dry

Double Gold

Maan Farms Winery, BC – 2022 Raspberry Table – $23.08

Gold

Maan Farms Winery, BC – 2023 Strawberry Rhubarb – $22.51
Applewood Farm Winery, ON – 2021 Trio – $18.00

Soft Fruit Dessert

Gold

Maan Farms Winery, BC – N/V Blackberry Dessert – $29.99

Tree Fruit Dry

Double Gold

Muskoka Lakes Winery, ON – 2022 Georgian Bay Rose – $18.75

Gold

Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Speachless White Peach – $22.00

Tree Fruit Off Dry

Double Gold

Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Cherysh Cherry Rose – $22.00

Gold

Shrugging Doctor Beverage Co., MB – 2022 Carmine Jewel Cherry Wine – $21.99

Tree Fruit Dessert

Double Gold

Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – 2019 Apple – $20.00

Gold

Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Pomme Desiree Iced Apple – $28.00

Fruit Sparkling

Double Gold

Krause Berry Farms and Estate Winery, BC – N/V Strawberry Sparkling – $27.00

Gold

Coopérative Forestière du Nord Ouest Ltée., NB – N/V Noaska Jazzy Sparkling Red – $18.90

Fruit Fortifieds

Double Gold

La Vallée de la Framboise Inc., QC – N/V Douce Anna – $20.00

Gold

La Vallée de la Framboise Inc., QC – N/V Le Fabuleux – $20.00

DESSERT WINES

Late Harvests

Double Gold

Vignoble du Marathonien, QC – 2021 Vendange tardive sélective – $28.00

Gold

Bench 1775, BC – 2022 Paradise Ranch Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc Semillon – $29.75

White Icewines (Riesling, Vidal, Other)

Gold

Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Riesling Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition – $39.95

Magnotta Winery, ON – 2021 Vidal Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition – $34.75

Red Icewines

Double Gold

Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Cabernet Franc Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition – $44.95

Gold

Lakeview Wine Co., ON – 2022 Lakeview Wine Co. Cabernet Franc Icewine – $60.00

Grape Fortified

Double Gold

Moraine Winery, BC – 2021 O’Port – $45.00

Gold

Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2017 The Crown – $45.99

The complete listing of this year’s results is available from the All Canadian Wine Championships website at https://allcanadianwinechampionships.com/acwc-2024-results

Sláinte mhaith

Info Seminar or Infomercial?

June 15, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

An American wine club operator from Napa Valley, California had arranged for a group of his members to take part on our recent river cruise aboard the Scenic Sapphire, through the Burgundy and Rhône wine regions. The group excursion included the CEO of Cuvaison Estate Wines of Napa, California, Dan Zepponi.

While sailing down the Rhône River between ports, Zepponi treated the passengers to two seminars; the first was an exploration of Chardonnay wine. The presentation included tastings of two different Chardonnays from Cuvaison which were compared to two French Chardonnays that are regularly served as part of dinner service on the ship.

The tastings were conducted as a head-to-head comparison. First, his unoaked Methibiton Chardonnay, was compared to an unnamed, unoaked French wine. The second comparison was between two oaked Chardonnays, Coeurtina from his winery against a second unidentified French.

In each comparison I found the flavours of the Napa wines to be extremely close to the French, though to me the French was slightly more mellow and smoother. The Cuvaison wines are priced at $70 US each and are only available directly from the winery. In comparison, the ships wines would have an equivalent price of approximately $15 – $20 US per bottle.

During the second seminar Zepponi discussed micro-lots as they pertain to the wine industry. When a winery wants to produce a type of wine but does not have enough of the varietal in their own vineyard they may purchase the varietal from another grape grower. The purchased grapes are then used to make a specific wine exclusively from that purchased micro-lot. This allows the winemaker to better control the grapes being used and the wine produced, in a similar manner that would be done if the vintner was using their own estate grown grapes.

Two taste comparisons were conducted, the first was with Cuvaison’s 2022 En Cigar Chardonnay Blanc and the ship’s undisclosed Sauvignon Blanc house wine. The second comparison was conducted using their 2022 Fiddlestix Pinot Noir and an undescribed French Pinot Noir. I favoured the French Sauvignon Blanc over the Cuvaison but did find Cuvaison’s Pinot to be smoother and less fresh that the French Pinot. Once again though, the price between the American and French wines was significantly different – $70 US for both Cuvaison’s versus under $20 US for the French wines.

Unfortunately, the two seminars lacked substance and honesty as they were actually marketing presentations for Cuvaison wines. Zepponi would have had more credibility in my eyes if he had presented his talks as being an introduction to Cuvaison wines. There was no value in conducting taste comparisons with wines that are not even identified by name, let alone any information about where or how the wines were produced. He should have simply talked about how his wines are produced.

Based on information presented about the various Cuvaison wines, they are producing decent wines at a reasonable price point. However, the feeble attempt at conducting product comparisons was an insult to the intelligence of the ship’s passengers.

Sláinte mhaith

Countries with The Worst Wine Trade Deficits

May 11, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

According to the most recent statistics, the following countries have the highest negative net exports for wine. Net exports are defined as the value of a country’s total exports minus the value of its total imports. Thus, the statistics below present the deficit between the value of each country’s wine import purchases and its wine exports (in U.S. dollars).

United States: -$6.2 billion
United Kingdom: -$4.4 billion
Canada: -$2.2 billion
Japan: -$1.9 billion
Germany: -$1.8 billion
China: -$1.4 billion
Switzerland: -$1.2 billion
Netherlands: -$1 billion
Russia: -$882.3 million
Sweden: -$793.9 million
Belgium: -$750.2 million
Hong Kong: -$727.8 million
South Korea: -$581.1 million
Denmark: -$580.1 million
Norway: -$499.4 million

The combined North American deficit of $8.4 billion in international wine trade has a strong demand for both Old World and New World brands. In turn, this negative cashflow highlights North America’s strong competitive disadvantage for wine sales but also indicates opportunities for other wine-supplying countries to contribute toward satisfying North America’s consumer thirst and wide-ranging tastes for different types of wines.

Sláinte mhaith

Winemaking Chemistry

April 13, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

The natural method of winemaking is the result of a series of biochemical transformations caused by the action of several enzymes. Many of these enzymes originate from the grapes themselves. However, the enzymes found in the grapes, yeasts and other microorganisms are often not sufficient so commercial enzymes are often added to supplement winemaking requirements.

Enzymes are used in winemaking to break down certain components in the grape juice, such as pectin and proteins, which help clarify the wine and improve its flavour, as well as improve the quality and efficiency of the fermentation process. Enzymes are also used to remove unwanted substances such as tannins.

To accomplish all this several different types of enzymes are used.

Pectinases are enzymes that break down pectin, which is a complex carbohydrate found in the cell walls of the plants. The result is simpler sugars that can be fermented by yeast.

Beta-glucanases break down beta-glucans, which are complex sugars found in the cell walls of yeast and can cause problems during fermentation.

Proteases are enzymes that break down proteins into smaller peptides and amino acids, which can also be utilized by yeast during fermentation.

Glucosidases help to release aromatic compounds from the grape juice, which can enhance the flavour and aroma of the wine. The selection of active yeast, fungal and bacterial glycosidases enhance the wine aroma.

Lipases are enzymes that break down fats and lipids, which can improve the clarity, filtration and stability of the wine. They also assist with improving the pressing efficiency and juice extraction.

Anthocyanins contribute greatly to red wines because these molecules and their interactions with other compounds are responsible for the colour and the stability of red wine during ageing.

Exogenous enzymes are often used to accelerate the extraction of anthocyanins from the berry skin increasing the colour intensity of the wine.

The diagram below demonstrates where enzymes may be injected into the wine making process. It is an excellent illustration as to why vintners require a strong biology or bio-chemical background.

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Arterra Wines Canada

April 6, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

The name Arterra Wines has come up in discussion in a couple of my blog posts in the past regarding their acquisitions within the wine industry. So, it seems to be a good time to investigate and find out more about Arterra Wines.

According to the Arterra Wines Canada website, their mission is, “To build wine brands people love”. Their origins date back to 1874 when the Niagara Falls Wine Company was founded. In 1994 they became known as Vincor International. In 2006, Vincor was acquired by Constellation Brands, a U.S.-based company that is both a leading international producer and marketer of beer, wine and spirits. Finally, in 2016, the Canadian branch of Constellation Brands was acquired by the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan and became Arterra Wines Canada.

With many iconic and recognized wine brands, Arterra is developing and expanding their wine portfolio to provide Canadians from coast-to-coast with the opportunity to enjoy and experience wines made both in Canada and from renowned wine-making regions around the world.

Arterra owns and operates Wine Rack retail stores in Ontario, as well as sells wine kits and products for winemaking at RJS Craft Winemaking.

Here is the timeline of important events that have taken place throughout the life of Arterra Wines:

1874

Niagara Falls Wine Company was founded.

1911

Niagara Falls Wine Company renamed T.G. Bright & Co. Limited.

1975

Inniskillin is given the first Canadian winery license since 1929 in Ontario, making it the first estate winery in Canada.

1986

T.G. Bright & Co. Limited acquires Jordan & Ste-Michelle Cellars Limited.

1989

Don Triggs and Alan Jackson, with a group of employees and investors, purchase Cartier Wines from John Labatt Limited.

1992

Cartier Wines acquires Inniskillin.

1993

Jackson-Triggs brand launches.

1994

T.G. Bright & Co. changes its name to become Vincor International Inc.

2000

Acquisition of Sumac Ridge, one of B.C.’s first wineries, and See Ya Later Ranch (formerly Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards) in the Okanagan, B.C.

2001

NK’Mip Cellars Inc. in B.C. becomes first Aboriginal winery thanks to the joint venture with Osoyoos Indian Band and Vincor International.
Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery opens.

2003

Acquisition of Kim Crawford Wines of Auckland, New Zealand.

2005

Naked Grape brand launches.

2006

Vincor International is acquired by Constellation Brands.

2009

Open Wine brand launches in Ontario (and later in B.C. in 2011).

2012

Vincor International starts operating under the Constellation Brands name.

2013

Bodacious brand wine launches.

2016

Constellation Brands is acquired by the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan.

2017

The name is changed to Arterra Wines Canada.

2019

Acquisition of Culmina Family Estate Winery in B.C.s Okanagan Valley.
After stopping production in 2016, Jordan, Ontario’s Le Clos Jordanne wines were re-established.

2020

Acquisition of Sandbanks Winery, Prince Edward County, Ontario (see March 8, 2020 post, The Shifting of Sandbanks).
Acquisition of Tom Gore Vineyards and the trademark rights to Paso Creek, Revolution, Vintage Ink and R.H. Phillips.

2021

Acquisition of Vin First, a Canadian canning and Tetra™ packaging company, specializing in the beverage alcohol industry.

2023

New location for Le Clos Jordanne on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench.
Acquisition of Angels Gate Winery and Kew Winery, Niagara, Ontario.
Acquisition of Champagne Palmer of Champagne, France.

How long Arterra Wines remains under the control of the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan and a Canadian corporation remains to be seen. Should ownership become non-Canadian in the future, a significant portion of the Canadian wine industry will hang precariously in the balance; a sobering thought.

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Millesime Sparkling Wine Company

March 30, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

Millesime was a sparkling wine company in Niagara that was originally established by Frenchman Alain Girerd. He saw Niagara’s potential as a wine producing region and developed his export business from France to service Canadian winemaker’s needs. Millesime provided comprehensive solutions for traditional method sparkling wine production services such as consulting, riddling, disgorging, and packaging.

*Len Pennachetti, Harald Thiel, and Philip Dowell*

In December 2023, Millesime was purchased by two of the Niagara’s key winery owners and a veteran winemaker. Hidden Bench Winery owner Harald Thiel, Cave Spring co-founder Len Pennachetti and winemaker Philip Dowell purchased Millesime and have renamed it Niagara Sparkling Wine Service.

By acquiring Millesime and providing Ontario craft winemakers with a scalable traditional method for producing sparkling wine, they feel they can ensure and expand the growth of premium sparkling wine production in Ontario. Winemaker Dowell, the operating partner of Niagara Sparkling Wine Service, has been crafting benchmark traditional method sparkling wine for more than 20 years and provides sparkling wine consulting services to the industry on an as needed basis. Dowell was most recently the winemaker at Kew Vineyards and Angels Gate prior to their being purchased by Arterra Wines Canada.

Millesime was originally sold by its founder, Alain Girerd to John Young, who was then president at Angels Gate Winery. Dowell and Young operated the company as the full-service facility as it was envisioned by Girerd until Arterra purchased Angels Gate Winery and left Millesime dormant. The purchase by Thiel, Pennachetti and Dowell from Young got the idle sparkling wine production facility back in operation to the relief of wineries who had their wines tied up during the transition.

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Ancient Roman Grapes

March 16, 2024 / A Layman's Wine Musings / 1 Comment

Historically, the Romans are famous for their love of wine. It is ironic that the wine Roman Emperors consumed was nothing like the wonderfully delicious wines that the world enjoys today. During Roman times, what was referred to as wine was actually vinegar with honey and spices added, or sometimes garlic. Despite this, it was considered very good compared to other wines of the time.

Recently, three historic, yet little-known indigenous grape varieties, Bellone, Nero Buono and Cesanese are making a comeback in Italy’s ever changing wine market.

Bellone

Bellone is an ancient white grape variety that is referred to as ‘uva pantastica or pane d’uva’, meaning a ‘grape as good as bread’ or a ‘grape that goes well with bread’, depending on the source. The white grape often brings bright, fruity characteristics of stone fruit, melon and citrus fruits. Some bottles also have flavours of herbs, tropical fruits and toast. It still grows on the original roots of ancient times.

Casale del Giglio wine estate, located 50 kilometres south of Rome, has spent years reintroducing the native grapes of Lazio. In 2022, its work was recognized by Gambero Rosso magazine when the winery’s Anthium Bellone, which is produced using ungrafted vines, was awarded the coveted Italian award for wine excellence, Tre Bicchieri.

Nero Buono

The black or red grape variety, Nero Buono, almost exclusively grows in the volcanic soil of Monte Lepini. Insects do not thrive in its cool, windy climate, thus alleviating one risk to this finicky grape. The deeply coloured wine brings flavours of dark-skinned fruits, rhubarb and black pepper.

Nero Buono is difficult to grow so there are no clones. It is very wild and produces many leaves which must be thinned out several times per year. The berries are tight and close together making the vines susceptible to disease.

Producers are committed to supporting native grape production, even when there is minimal demand for the grapes. Winemaker Marco Carpineti now makes wine only with sustainably grown fruit that is native to the area. Today Carpineti is one of the best-known winemakers of Lazio. He devotes 25 percent of his production to Nero Buono and Bellone-based sparkling wine made in the traditional method.

Cesanese

Originally called Latium, the Lazio region of Italy borders Tuscany to the north, Abruzzo to the east, Umbria to the northeast and Campania to the south. Rome is in this region, making it the primary winemaking region of the Roman Empire.

Cesanese is the signature red wine of Lazio. Cesanese refers to one of two sub-varieties: Cesanese Comune or Cesanese di Affile. Both are used to make high-quality wines, which were highly prized in ancient times. There are three Cesanese appellations which include Cesanese del Piglio DOCG, Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC and Cesanese di Affile DOC. All are within a 50-kilometer vicinity.

Cesanese is a red wine that contains flavours of dark-skinned berries, herbs, cedar and cooking spices. It’s ruby in colour and has high acidity and tannin, with the ability to age for a long time.

The Campania Region

Modern winemaking in Campania, a southern region referred to as ‘the ankle of the boot’, is closely identified with the Mastroberardino family, specialists in the wines of ancient times. The family’s involvement in winemaking can be traced back to the late 1500s. However, today, brothers Antonio and Walter, along with sons Piero and Carlo, run the winery which is 60 kilometres northeast of Naples.

The family’s extensive library of ancient viticulture books has enabled the Mastroberardinos to grow grapes that were popular centuries ago.

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