wine

Biodynamic Wine

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / Leave a comment

While visiting a winery in the Beaujolais district of France a few weeks ago I was introduced to a new term. I was told that the winery I was visiting was a biodynamic winery. This was a description I had not heard before, so I decided to research the topic in more depth when I returned home from my trip.

You may be familiar with what organic farming entails (if not, see my post Organic Wine from August 8, 2020), however the biodynamic movement is somewhat different. According to the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association, biodynamics is “a spiritual-ethical-ecological approach to agriculture, gardens, food production and nutrition.” Biodynamic wine is made with a set of farming practices that views the vineyard as one solid organism. The ecosystem functions with each portion of the vineyard contributing to the next. Conceptually, everything in the universe is interconnected and gives off a resonance or ‘vibe’. This interconnectivity even includes celestial bodies like the moon, planets and stars. Biodynamic viticulture is the practice of balancing this resonance between vine, human, earth and stars. Biodynamics is a holistic view of agriculture.

As with organic farming, natural materials, soils, and composts are used to sustain the vineyard. Chemical fertilizers and pesticides are not permitted. A range of animals from ducks to horses to sheep live on the soil and fertilize it, creating a rich, fertile environment for the vines to grow in. Biodynamic farming also seeks sustainability, leaving the land in as good or better condition.

Biodynamic farming has been met with skepticism by many scientists as some of the practices are difficult at best to prove they work. In addition to organic practices, biodynamic farming takes other factors into account, such as the lunar calendar and astrology. This method of farming considers all aspects of life in the vineyard — other plants, insects and animals. It’s not just about the grapes.

Photo credit: winefolly.com

Farming practices from pruning to harvesting are controlled by the biodynamic calendar. It breaks all the tasks associated with farming into four types of days: root days, flower days, fruit days and leaf days. Each of these categories has certain tasks associated with it that are reflective of the earth’s four classical elements. Fruit days are meant for harvesting, leaf days for watering, root days for pruning. On flower days, nothing is done in the vineyard.

Biodynamic farming calls for specific and sometimes strange compost and field preparations. One of these is known as cow horn manure. Cow horns are stuffed with manure compost and buried into the ground all through the winter, then excavated the following spring. When excavated, the stuffed material is spread throughout the vineyard.

Biodynamic wines must be certified and adhere to strict rules and regulations. The wineries are overseen by 2 governing bodies, Demeter International and Biodyvin.

Biodynamic wines can be found in the United States, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Eastern Europe, Chile, Argentina, India and Australia. Those who believe in the philosophy feel that the wines are more characteristic to the terroir where they originate. However, wine experts say there is no noticeable difference in the taste of biodynamic wine from organically produced wines. Is the difference worth the additional effort? You be the judge.

Sláinte mhaith

2024 All Canadian Wine Championships

/ A Layman's Wine Musings / 2 Comments

The All Canadian Wine Championships (ACWC) were held earlier this month. It is open to all Canadian licensed wineries, cideries and meaderies and content must be grown and made in Canada. This year there were 995 entries submitted by 173 wineries.

The panel of judges consisted of wine writers, sommeliers, and professional wine judges from the Wine Judges of Ontario. There were 10 judges from Ontario, 2 from Alberta and 1 from each of Quebec and New Brunswick.

The 2024 trophy winners were as follows:

The Best Sparkling Wine of the Year was presented to British Columbia’s (BC) Bench 1775 Winery, for their 2020 Blanc de Blanc ($39.75 CDN).

The Best Red Wine of the Year was BC’s Sunrock Vineyard’s 2021 Shiraz ($40.24 CDN).

The Best White Wine of the Year was awarded to BC’s Van Westen Vineyards, for their 2022 Viscous ($27.40 CDN).

The Best Dessert Wine of the Year was Quebec’s Vignoble du Marathonien, for their 2021 Vin de glace ($50.00 CDN).

The Best Rosé Wine of the Year was awarded to yet another BC winery, Hester Creek Estate Winery, for their 2023 Rosé Noir ($32.19 CDN).

The Best Fruit Wine of the Year was presented to another BC winery, Maan Farms Winery, for their N/V Raspberry Dessert ($29.99 CDN).

The Best Cider of the Year was Nova Scotia’s Domaine de Grand Pré, for their N/V Vintage Sparkling Cider ($29.00 CDN).

The Best Mead of the Year was presented to Manitoba’s Shrugging Doctor Beverage Co, for their N/V Apple Cinnamon Mead ($18.47 CDN).

Double Gold, Gold, Silver and Bronze medals may be awarded in each category. Double Gold and Gold medals were presented to the following participants:

Sparkling Wine-Traditional Method

Gold

  • Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2021 Lush Sparkling Rosé – $57.80
  • Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2020 Blanc de Franc – $63.80
  • Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery, ON – N/V Brut – $44.80

Sparkling Wine–Charmat Method

Double Gold

  • Bella Terra Vineyards, ON – N/V Sparkling Rose – $24.95

Gold

  • Three Dog Winery, ON – 2023 Debut Sparkling – $27.80
  • Harbour Estates, ON – 2023 Sparkling Riesling – $25.00

Sparkling Wine–Frizzante Method

Double Gold

  • Planters Ridge Winery, NS – 2022 SEK – $22.43

Gold

  • Jost Vineyards, NS – N/V Luvo Sparkling White – $5.89

Chardonnay, Unoaked

Double Gold

  • Calamus Estate Winery, ON – 2023 Unoaked Chardonnay – $18.95

Gold

  • Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2023 Select Series Unoaked Chardonnay – $15.95

Chardonnay Under $35.00

Double Gold

  • Wending Home, ON – 2021 Chardonnay Estate Vineyards – $34.95

Gold

  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2022 Barrel Aged Chardonnay – $27.05
  • Solvero Wines, BC – 2022 Chardonnay – $34.60
  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2020 G. Marquis Chardonnay VQA – The Silver Line – $19.75

Chardonnay Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Nk’Mip Cellars BC – 2022 Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay – $41.39

Gold

  • Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2022 Premium Series Barrel Fermented Chardonnay – $49.95
  • SpearHead Winery, BC – 2022 Chardonnay Clone 95 – $41.40

Riesling Dry

Double Gold 

  • Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery, BC – 2023 Riesling Dry – $28.74

Gold

  • Broken Stone Winery, ON – 2023 Riesling – $21.75

Riesling Off Dry

Gold

  • Gaspereau Vineyards, NS – 2023 Riesling – $23.79
  • Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery, ON – 2020 Riesling Loved By Lu – $18.75

Sauvignon Blanc

Double Gold

  • Dirty Laundry Vineyard, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $25.29

Gold

  • River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $27.49
  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – $27.60

Gewürztraminer

Double Gold

  • Wild Goose Vineyards, BC – 2023 Gewürztraminer – $19.99

Gold

  • Colchester Ridge Estate Winery, ON – 2022 Gewürztraminer – $20.75
  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Gewürztraminer – $21.80

Pinot Gris Style

Double Gold

  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Pinot Gris – $26.45

Gold

  • Hillside Winery & Bistro, BC – 2023 Unoaked Pinot Gris – $25.00
  • River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Gris – $27.49
  • Villa Romana Estate Winery, ON – 2023 Pinotino – $24.95

Pinot Grigio Style

Double Gold

  • Kismet Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Grigio – $26.44

Gold

  • Three Dog Winery, ON – 2023 Pinot Grigio – $19.75
  • Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2023 Okanagan Estate Pinot Grigio – $20.69

Viognier

Double Gold

  • Hester Creek Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Viognier – $27.59

Gold

  • Bordertown Vineyard & Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Viognier – $21.90

Other Single Vitis Vinifera Whites

Double Gold

  • Scorched Earth Winery, BC – 2023 Pinot Noir Blanc – $22.95

Gold

  • Wild Goose Vineyards, BC – 2023 Pinot Blanc – $21.99
  • Bonamici Cellars Ltd., BC – 2022 Observatory Gruner Veltliner – $28.74

White Vitis Vinifera Blends

Double Gold

Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2022 White Mer’r’iym – $41.39

Gold

  • Hillside Winery & Bistro, BC – 2023 Chef’s Whites – $35.00
  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2023 Valerie – $26.45
  • River Stone Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Splash – $26.34

Single White Hybrids

Double Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2023 Living Land Frontenac Gris – $25.29

Gold

  • Planters Ridge Winery, NS – 2022 L’Acadie – $18.52
  • Valley of the Springs, BC – 2023 Epicure – $25.30

White Hybrid Blends

Double Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2023 Hands Up White – $22.99

Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Dead End Skrewd – $25.00

Pet Nat

Double Gold

  • Bench 1775, BC – 2022 Blanc de Blanc Ancestral – $39.99

Gold

  • Trail Estate Winery, ON – 2022 White Pét Nat – $36.00

Orange Wines

Double Gold

  • Byland Estate Winery, ON – 2021 Skin Fermented White Chardonnay – $28.00

Gold

  • Last House Vineyard, ON – 2021 Electrum – $29.00

Rosés Dry

Gold

  • Creekside Estate Winery Ltd., ON – 2023 Rosé – $15.95
  • Chaberton Estate WInery, BC – 2023 La Fleur de Chaberton – $27.55
  • Lakeview Wine Co., ON – N/V 20 Bees Rosé – $13.95

Rosés Off Dry

Double Gold

  • Gaspereau Vineyards, NS – 2022 Rosé – $23.79

Gold

  • Richibucto River Wine Estate, NB – 2020 Camrose – $16.63
  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2023 Chaberton Pink – $21.80
  • Three Sisters Winery, BC – 2023 Rosé – $25.00

Cabernet Sauvignon Under $35

Double Gold

  • Chaberton Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon – $31.00

Gold

  • Paglione Estate Winery, ON – 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – $21.95

Cabernet Sauvignon Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Colio Estate Wines, ON – 2020 Small Lot Series Cabernet Sauvignon – $40.00

Gold

  • Kismet Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – $68.99

Merlot Under $35

Double Gold

  • Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery, BC – 2020 Merlot – $33.34

Gold

  • Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2021 Winemaker’s Merlot – $34.49
  • Alderlea Vineyards, BC – 2020 Merlot – $32.20

Merlot Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Wesbert Winery, BC – 2021 Merlot – $45.94

Gold

  • Priest Creek Family Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Merlot – $52.90
  • De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2021 Merlot – $59.80

Pinot Noir Under $35

Double Gold

  • The Grange of Prince Edward, ON – 2022 County Pinot Noir – $34.00

Gold

  • Cherry Point Estate Wines, BC – 2022 Pinot Noir – $32.90
  • Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2022 Okanagan Estate Pinot Noir – $25.29

Pinot Noir Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Wending Home, ON – 2020 “Up Above” Pinot Noir – $42.95

Gold

  • Solvero Wines, BC – 2020 Pinot Noir – $40.35
  • SpearHead Winery, BC – 2022 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley – $41.40

Cabernet Franc Under $35

Double Gold

  • Inniskillin Okanagan Estate, BC – 2022 Okanagan Estate Cabernet Franc – $29.89

Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Living Land Cabernet Franc – $31.04
  • Three Sisters Winery, BC – 2022 Cabernet Franc – $30.00

Cabernet Franc Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Watchful Eye Winery, ON – 2021 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $41.95

Gold

  • Privato Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2022 Cabernet Franc – $40.24
  • Bordertown Vineyard & Estate Winery, BC – 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $49.90

Bordeaux Blends Under $35

Double Gold

  • Bench 1775, BC – 2021 Groove –  $22.75

Gold

  • Clos du Soleil Winery, BC – 2021 Celestiale – $34.39
  • Sunrock, BC – 2020 Red Meritage – $34.49
  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Meritage Gran Riserva -$ 31.95

Bordeaux Blends Over $35.00

Double Gold

  • Moraine Winery, BC – 2021 Meritage – $42.00

Gold

  • Vanessa Vineyard Estate Winery Inc., BC – 2019 Right Bank – $57.49
  • Colio Estate Wines, ON – 2020 Small Lot Series Meritage – $40.00
  • Hainle Vyds Estate Winery Ltd., BC – 2022 Hainle’s Red Cuvee – $40.24

Syrah/Shiraz Under $35

Double Gold

  • Oxley Estate Winery, ON – 2020 Syrah Reserve – $32.95

Gold

  • Terralux Estate Winery, BC – 2018 Syrah – $34.99

Syrah/Shiraz Over $35.00

Gold

  • Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2020 Qwam Qwmt Syrah – $49.44
  • Moon Curser Vineyards, BC – 2022 Syrah – $37.94

Single Red Hybrids

Double Gold

  • Potter Settlement Artisan Winery, ON – 2020 Frontenac Rouge – $35.00

Gold

  • Front Road Cellars, ON – 2022 Marquette Canadian Oak – $23.95
  • Magnetic Hill Winery, NB – 2023 Terroir Generator TP 1-1-12 – $30.00

Red Hybrid Blends

Double Gold

  • Jost Vineyards, NS – N/V Luvo Simply Red – $5.89   

Gold

  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Hands Up Red – $25.29
  • De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2023 De Simone Red – $24.80

Other Single Red Vitis Vinifera

Double Gold

  • Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2022 King’s Ransom Touriga Nacional – $74.75

Gold

  • Bonamici Cellars Ltd., BC – 2022 Sangiovese – $36.80

Other Red Vitis Vinifera Blends

Double Gold

  • Hester Creek Estate Winery, BC – 2022 GSM – $39.19

Gold

  • Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2023 Select Series Cabernet – $15.95
  • Nk’Mip Cellars, BC – 2021 Winemaker’s Talon – $37.99

Marechal Foch

Double Gold

  • Alderlea Vineyards,BC – 2022 Clarinet – $27.60

Gold

  • Skimmerhorn Winery, BC – 2022 Estate Reserve Foch – $31.00

Malbec

Double Gold

  • Nostalgia Wines Inc., BC – 2020 Malbec – $42.00

Gold

  • Moon Curser Vineyards, BC – 2022 Malbec – $43.69

Gamay

Double Gold

Deep Roots Winery, BC – 2022 Reserve Gamay – $34.90

Gold

  • Deep Roots Winery, BC – 2022 Gamay – $25.90
  • Monte Creek Winery, BC – 2022 Living Land Gamay – $33.34

Appassimento Style

Double Gold

  • De Simone Vineyards, ON – 2019 Stallion – $154.80              

Gold

  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2020 Enotrium Gran Riserva – $59.75

FRUIT WINES

Soft Fruit Dry

Double Gold

  • Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – 2015 Black Currant – $30.00

Gold

  • Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – N/V Red Raspberry & Red Currant – $20.00

Soft Fruit Off-Dry

Double Gold

  • Maan Farms Winery, BC – 2022 Raspberry Table – $23.08

Gold

  • Maan Farms Winery, BC – 2023 Strawberry Rhubarb – $22.51
  • Applewood Farm Winery, ON – 2021 Trio – $18.00

Soft Fruit Dessert

Gold

  • Maan Farms Winery, BC – N/V Blackberry Dessert – $29.99

Tree Fruit Dry

Double Gold

  • Muskoka Lakes Winery, ON – 2022 Georgian Bay Rose – $18.75

Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Speachless White Peach – $22.00

Tree Fruit Off Dry

Double Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Cherysh Cherry Rose – $22.00

Gold

  • Shrugging Doctor Beverage Co., MB – 2022 Carmine Jewel Cherry Wine – $21.99

Tree Fruit Dessert

Double Gold

  • Black Bear Farms of Ontario Estate Winery, ON – 2019 Apple – $20.00

Gold

  • Forbidden Fruit Winery, BC – 2023 Pomme Desiree Iced Apple – $28.00

Fruit Sparkling

Double Gold

  • Krause Berry Farms and Estate Winery, BC – N/V Strawberry Sparkling – $27.00

Gold

  • Coopérative Forestière du Nord Ouest Ltée., NB – N/V Noaska Jazzy Sparkling Red –  $18.90

Fruit Fortifieds

Double Gold

  • La Vallée de la Framboise Inc., QC – N/V Douce Anna – $20.00

Gold

  • La Vallée de la Framboise Inc., QC – N/V Le Fabuleux – $20.00

DESSERT WINES

Late Harvests

Double Gold

  • Vignoble du Marathonien, QC – 2021 Vendange tardive sélective – $28.00

Gold

  • Bench 1775, BC – 2022 Paradise Ranch Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc Semillon – $29.75

White Icewines (Riesling, Vidal, Other)

Gold

  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Riesling Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition  – $39.95
  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2021 Vidal Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition –       $34.75

Red Icewines

Double Gold

  • Magnotta Winery, ON – 2019 Cabernet Franc Icewine Niagara Peninsula Limited Edition – $44.95

Gold

  • Lakeview Wine Co., ON – 2022 Lakeview Wine Co. Cabernet Franc Icewine – $60.00

Grape Fortified

Double Gold

  • Moraine Winery, BC – 2021 O’Port – $45.00

Gold    

  • Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery, BC – 2017 The Crown – $45.99

The complete listing of this year’s results is available from the All Canadian Wine Championships website at https://allcanadianwinechampionships.com/acwc-2024-results

Sláinte mhaith

Info Seminar or Infomercial?

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An American wine club operator from Napa Valley, California had arranged for a group of his members to take part on our recent river cruise aboard the Scenic Sapphire, through the Burgundy and Rhône wine regions. The group excursion included the CEO of Cuvaison Estate Wines of Napa, California, Dan Zepponi.

While sailing down the Rhône River between ports, Zepponi treated the passengers to two seminars; the first was an exploration of Chardonnay wine. The presentation included tastings of two different Chardonnays from Cuvaison which were compared to two French Chardonnays that are regularly served as part of dinner service on the ship.

The tastings were conducted as a head-to-head comparison. First, his unoaked Methibiton Chardonnay, was compared to an unnamed, unoaked French wine. The second comparison was between two oaked Chardonnays, Coeurtina from his winery against a second unidentified French.

In each comparison I found the flavours of the Napa wines to be extremely close to the French, though to me the French was slightly more mellow and smoother. The Cuvaison wines are priced at $70 US each and are only available directly from the winery.  In comparison, the ships wines would have an equivalent price of approximately $15 – $20 US per bottle.

During the second seminar Zepponi discussed micro-lots as they pertain to the wine industry. When a winery wants to produce a type of wine but does not have enough of the varietal in their own vineyard they may purchase the varietal from another grape grower.   The purchased grapes are then used to make a specific wine exclusively from that purchased micro-lot. This allows the winemaker to better control the grapes being used and the wine produced, in a similar manner that would be done if the vintner was using their own estate grown grapes.

Two taste comparisons were conducted, the first was with Cuvaison’s 2022 En Cigar Chardonnay Blanc and the ship’s undisclosed Sauvignon Blanc house wine. The second comparison was conducted using their 2022 Fiddlestix Pinot Noir and an undescribed French Pinot Noir. I favoured the French Sauvignon Blanc over the Cuvaison but did find Cuvaison’s Pinot to be smoother and less fresh that the French Pinot. Once again though, the price between the American and French wines was significantly different – $70 US for both Cuvaison’s versus under $20 US for the French wines.

Unfortunately, the two seminars lacked substance and honesty as they were actually marketing presentations for Cuvaison wines. Zepponi would have had more credibility in my eyes if he had presented his talks as being an introduction to Cuvaison wines. There was no value in conducting taste comparisons with wines that are not even identified by name, let alone any information about where or how the wines were produced. He should have simply talked about how his wines are produced.

Based on information presented about the various Cuvaison wines, they are producing decent wines at a reasonable price point. However, the feeble attempt at conducting product comparisons was an insult to the intelligence of the ship’s passengers.

Sláinte mhaith

Countries with The Worst Wine Trade Deficits

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According to the most recent statistics, the following countries have the highest negative net exports for wine. Net exports are defined as the value of a country’s total exports minus the value of its total imports. Thus, the statistics below present the deficit between the value of each country’s wine import purchases and its wine exports (in U.S. dollars).

Photo credit: bkwine.com
  1. United States: -$6.2 billion
  2. United Kingdom: -$4.4 billion
  3. Canada: -$2.2 billion
  4. Japan: -$1.9 billion
  5. Germany: -$1.8 billion
  6. China: -$1.4 billion
  7. Switzerland: -$1.2 billion
  8. Netherlands: -$1 billion
  9. Russia: -$882.3 million
  10. Sweden: -$793.9 million
  11. Belgium: -$750.2 million
  12. Hong Kong: -$727.8 million
  13. South Korea: -$581.1 million
  14. Denmark: -$580.1 million
  15. Norway: -$499.4 million

The combined North American deficit of $8.4 billion in international wine trade has a strong demand for both Old World and New World brands. In turn, this negative cashflow highlights North America’s strong competitive disadvantage for wine sales but also indicates opportunities for other wine-supplying countries to contribute toward satisfying North America’s consumer thirst and wide-ranging tastes for different types of wines.

Sláinte mhaith

Winemaking Chemistry

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The natural method of winemaking is the result of a series of biochemical transformations caused by the action of several enzymes. Many of these enzymes originate from the grapes themselves. However, the enzymes found in the grapes, yeasts and other microorganisms are often not sufficient so commercial enzymes are often added to supplement winemaking requirements.

Enzymes are used in winemaking to break down certain components in the grape juice, such as pectin and proteins, which help clarify the wine and improve its flavour, as well as improve the quality and efficiency of the fermentation process. Enzymes are also used to remove unwanted substances such as tannins.

To accomplish all this several different types of enzymes are used.

Pectinases are enzymes that break down pectin, which is a complex carbohydrate found in the cell walls of the plants.  The result is simpler sugars that can be fermented by yeast.

Beta-glucanases break down beta-glucans, which are complex sugars found in the cell walls of yeast and can cause problems during fermentation.

Proteases are enzymes that break down proteins into smaller peptides and amino acids, which can also be utilized by yeast during fermentation.

Glucosidases help to release aromatic compounds from the grape juice, which can enhance the flavour and aroma of the wine.  The selection of active yeast, fungal and bacterial glycosidases enhance the wine aroma.

Lipases are enzymes that break down fats and lipids, which can improve the clarity, filtration and stability of the wine.  They also assist with improving the pressing efficiency and juice extraction.

Anthocyanins contribute greatly to red wines because these molecules and their interactions with other compounds are responsible for the colour and the stability of red wine during ageing.

Exogenous enzymes are often used to accelerate the extraction of anthocyanins from the berry skin increasing the colour intensity of the wine.

The diagram below demonstrates where enzymes may be injected into the wine making process.  It is an excellent illustration as to why vintners require a strong biology or bio-chemical background.

Photo credit: creative-enzymes.com

Sláinte mhaith

Arterra Wines Canada

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The name Arterra Wines has come up in discussion in a couple of my blog posts in the past regarding their acquisitions within the wine industry. So, it seems to be a good time to investigate and find out more about Arterra Wines.

According to the Arterra Wines Canada website, their mission is, “To build wine brands people love”. Their origins date back to 1874 when the Niagara Falls Wine Company was founded. In 1994 they became known as Vincor International. In 2006, Vincor was acquired by Constellation Brands, a U.S.-based company that is both a leading international producer and marketer of beer, wine and spirits. Finally, in 2016, the Canadian branch of Constellation Brands was acquired by the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan and became Arterra Wines Canada.

With many iconic and recognized wine brands, Arterra is developing and expanding their wine portfolio to provide Canadians from coast-to-coast with the opportunity to enjoy and experience wines made both in Canada and from renowned wine-making regions around the world.

Arterra owns and operates Wine Rack retail stores in Ontario, as well as sells wine kits and products for winemaking at RJS Craft Winemaking.

Here is the timeline of important events that have taken place throughout the life of Arterra Wines:

1874

  • Niagara Falls Wine Company was founded.

1911

  • Niagara Falls Wine Company renamed T.G. Bright & Co. Limited.

1975

  • Inniskillin is given the first Canadian winery license since 1929 in Ontario, making it the first estate winery in Canada.

1986

  • T.G. Bright & Co. Limited acquires Jordan & Ste-Michelle Cellars Limited.

1989

  • Don Triggs and Alan Jackson, with a group of employees and investors, purchase Cartier Wines from John Labatt Limited.

1992

  • Cartier Wines acquires Inniskillin.

1993

  • Jackson-Triggs brand launches.

1994

  • T.G. Bright & Co. changes its name to become Vincor International Inc.

2000

  • Acquisition of Sumac Ridge, one of B.C.’s first wineries, and See Ya Later Ranch (formerly Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards) in the Okanagan, B.C.

2001

  • NK’Mip Cellars Inc. in B.C. becomes first Aboriginal winery thanks to the joint venture with Osoyoos Indian Band and Vincor International.
  • Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery opens.

2003

  • Acquisition of Kim Crawford Wines of Auckland, New Zealand.

2005

  • Naked Grape brand launches.

2006

  • Vincor International is acquired by Constellation Brands.

2009

  • Open Wine brand launches in Ontario (and later in B.C. in 2011).

2012

  • Vincor International starts operating under the Constellation Brands name.

2013

  • Bodacious brand wine launches.

2016

  • Constellation Brands is acquired by the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan.

2017

  • The name is changed to Arterra Wines Canada.

2019

  • Acquisition of Culmina Family Estate Winery in B.C.s Okanagan Valley. 
  • After stopping production in 2016, Jordan, Ontario’s Le Clos Jordanne wines were re-established.

2020

  • Acquisition of Sandbanks Winery, Prince Edward County, Ontario (see March 8, 2020 post, The Shifting of Sandbanks).
  • Acquisition of Tom Gore Vineyards and the trademark rights to Paso Creek, Revolution, Vintage Ink and R.H. Phillips.

2021

  • Acquisition of Vin First, a Canadian canning and Tetra™ packaging company, specializing in the beverage alcohol industry. 

2023

  • New location for Le Clos Jordanne on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench.
  • Acquisition of Angels Gate Winery and Kew Winery, Niagara, Ontario.
  • Acquisition of Champagne Palmer of Champagne, France.

How long Arterra Wines remains under the control of the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan and a Canadian corporation remains to be seen. Should ownership become non-Canadian in the future, a significant portion of the Canadian wine industry will hang precariously in the balance; a sobering thought.

Sláinte mhaith

Millesime Sparkling Wine Company

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Millesime was a sparkling wine company in Niagara that was originally established by Frenchman Alain Girerd. He saw Niagara’s potential as a wine producing region and developed his export business from France to service Canadian winemaker’s needs. Millesime provided comprehensive solutions for traditional method sparkling wine production services such as consulting, riddling, disgorging, and packaging.

Len Pennachetti, Harald Thiel, and Philip Dowell

In December 2023, Millesime was purchased by two of the Niagara’s key winery owners and a veteran winemaker. Hidden Bench Winery owner Harald Thiel, Cave Spring co-founder Len Pennachetti and winemaker Philip Dowell purchased Millesime and have renamed it Niagara Sparkling Wine Service.

By acquiring Millesime and providing Ontario craft winemakers with a scalable traditional method for producing sparkling wine, they feel they can ensure and expand the growth of premium sparkling wine production in Ontario. Winemaker Dowell, the operating partner of Niagara Sparkling Wine Service, has been crafting benchmark traditional method sparkling wine for more than 20 years and provides sparkling wine consulting services to the industry on an as needed basis. Dowell was most recently the winemaker at Kew Vineyards and Angels Gate prior to their being purchased by Arterra Wines Canada.

Millesime was originally sold by its founder, Alain Girerd to John Young, who was then president at Angels Gate Winery. Dowell and Young operated the company as the full-service facility as it was envisioned by Girerd until Arterra purchased Angels Gate Winery and left Millesime dormant. The purchase by Thiel, Pennachetti and Dowell from Young got the idle sparkling wine production facility back in operation to the relief of wineries who had their wines tied up during the transition.

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Ancient Roman Grapes

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Historically, the Romans are famous for their love of wine.  It is ironic that the wine Roman Emperors consumed was nothing like the wonderfully delicious wines that the world enjoys today.  During Roman times, what was referred to as wine was actually vinegar with honey and spices added, or sometimes garlic. Despite this, it was considered very good compared to other wines of the time.

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Recently, three historic, yet little-known indigenous grape varieties, Bellone, Nero Buono and Cesanese are making a comeback in Italy’s ever changing wine market.

Bellone

Bellone is an ancient white grape variety that is referred to as ‘uva pantastica or pane d’uva’, meaning a ‘grape as good as bread’ or a ‘grape that goes well with bread’, depending on the source. The white grape often brings bright, fruity characteristics of stone fruit, melon and citrus fruits. Some bottles also have flavours of herbs, tropical fruits and toast.  It still grows on the original roots of ancient times.

Casale del Giglio wine estate, located 50 kilometres south of Rome, has spent years reintroducing the native grapes of Lazio. In 2022, its work was recognized by Gambero Rosso magazine when the winery’s Anthium Bellone, which is produced using ungrafted vines, was awarded the coveted Italian award for wine excellence, Tre Bicchieri.

Nero Buono

The black or red grape variety, Nero Buono, almost exclusively grows in the volcanic soil of Monte Lepini. Insects do not thrive in its cool, windy climate, thus alleviating one risk to this finicky grape. The deeply coloured wine brings flavours of dark-skinned fruits, rhubarb and black pepper.

Nero Buono is difficult to grow so there are no clones. It is very wild and produces many leaves which must be thinned out several times per year.  The berries are tight and close together making the vines susceptible to disease.

Producers are committed to supporting native grape production, even when there is minimal demand for the grapes.  Winemaker Marco Carpineti now makes wine only with sustainably grown fruit that is native to the area. Today Carpineti is one of the best-known winemakers of Lazio. He devotes 25 percent of his production to Nero Buono and Bellone-based sparkling wine made in the traditional method.

Cesanese

Originally called Latium, the Lazio region of Italy borders Tuscany to the north, Abruzzo to the east, Umbria to the northeast and Campania to the south. Rome is in this region, making it the primary winemaking region of the Roman Empire.

Cesanese is the signature red wine of Lazio.  Cesanese refers to one of two sub-varieties: Cesanese Comune or Cesanese di Affile. Both are used to make high-quality wines, which were highly prized in ancient times. There are three Cesanese appellations which include Cesanese del Piglio DOCG, Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC and Cesanese di Affile DOC. All are within a 50-kilometer vicinity.

Cesanese is a red wine that contains flavours of dark-skinned berries, herbs, cedar and cooking spices. It’s ruby in colour and has high acidity and tannin, with the ability to age for a long time.

The Campania Region

Modern winemaking in Campania, a southern region referred to as ‘the ankle of the boot’, is closely identified with the Mastroberardino family, specialists in the wines of ancient times. The family’s involvement in winemaking can be traced back to the late 1500s.  However, today, brothers Antonio and Walter, along with sons Piero and Carlo, run the winery which is 60 kilometres northeast of Naples.

The family’s extensive library of ancient viticulture books has enabled the Mastroberardinos to grow grapes that were popular centuries ago.

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Pizza and Wine

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Homemade pizza and wine are the standard Friday night fare at our house. The topping choices are numerous, ranging from veggies to savoury cured meats and cheese. The options seem to be only limited by the imagination.

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No matter what type of pizza you enjoy there will be a suitable wine to complement it. Here are some suggestions to pair with your pizza whether you create it yourself or order it from your favourite restaurant.

Let’s start with the simple Cheese pizza. This straightforward pie goes well with a light red wine, such as Pinot Noir or Chianti.

Building on that foundation we progress to the Pepperoni pizza. Pepperoni is the culmination of cured meats and spices such as cayenne, anise and garlic. It pairs well with either two of my favourite wines, Cabernet Franc or Sangiovese. These bold, spicy reds complement the flavours of the pepperoni.

The combination of veggies and assorted meats creates an assortment of flavour found in the Supreme pizza. It may seem strange but Prosecco makes a great pairing as it won’t overpower the delicate flavours of the veggies but can still balance the taste of the savory ham, sausage and pepperoni.

Speaking of meat, the Meat Lovers pizza needs to be matched with a bold and robust wine, such as a Cabernet Sauvignon or Malbec. These wines have a bold richness, as well higher tannins and acidity to offset the fattiness of the meat.

Tangy, sweet BBQ Chicken pizza pairs well with a fruity Malbec or Pinot Noir. The wine will complement the tangy notes of the barbeque sauce in the pizza.

Heading in the opposite direction is the Veggie pizza. This type of colourful pizza needs a light, chilled red or full-bodied white to let the taste of the vegetables be revealed. A sparkling red wine, such as Lambrusco, or a Chenin Blanc or a Chardonnay would be a good match.

During my Italian adventure last year, I enjoyed a Margherita pizza on several occasions. A Margherita is a light pie consisting of tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and fresh basil. It pairs well with a light wine, such as a dry Rosé or Prosecco.

If pineapple on pizza is your thing, then Hawaiian pizza is for you. The sweet and salty flavours will be complemented by a German Riesling or a New World Sauvignon Blanc. The wine’s acidity and sweetness will complement the sweetness of the pineapple.

No matter what your choice of pizza is, there is a wine to go along with it.

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Barbaresco vs. Barolo

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I recently enjoyed a bottle of Barolo with dinner one night followed by a Barbaresco the following night. Having the two bottles back-to-back reminded me how different the two wines are despite being made from the same Nebbiolo grapes and being produced in the Piedmont region of Italy.

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Production of both Barolo and Barbaresco occur in the Langhe hills near the town of Alba. The Barbaresco zone is northeast and the Barolo zone is southeast of the town.  In accordance with Italy’s governing body, the DOCG (denominazione di origine protetta or Denomination of Controlled Origin.) Barolo may only be produced in the comuni or townships of La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo, Verduno, Roddi, Cherasco, Novello, Grinzane, Diano d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba. Barbaresco wine is produced in Treiso, Neive, San Rocco Seno d’Elvio and Barbaresco.

There are differences in the two sub-regions. The Barolo area is located at a slightly higher altitude and has more south-facing vineyard exposures. This results in slower ripening grapes than those of the Barbaresco area to the north. The northern region it is warmer, due to the lower altitudes and warm sea winds. As a result, the grapes ripen faster.

The soils of the two area are different as well. The soils of Barbaresco are slightly sandier, less compact, and have more nutrients. As a result, the wines have a softer character. The firmer soils of Barolo create bolder, more tannic wines.

According to DOCG regulations, Barbaresco must be aged a minimum of 26 months, with at least 9 of those months in oak. Barbaresco Riserva must be aged a minimum of 50 months with at least 9 months in oak.

Barolo wines are aged a minimum of 38 months, with 18 months being in oak. Barolo Riserva needs to age 60 months with 18 months in oak. The longer aging requirements are necessary because of the more intense tannins that are in Barolo wines.

When it comes to flavour, Barolo is the bigger, bolder and more structured. It may have an array of aromas of plums, sour cherries, tobacco or truffles.

Barbaresco is generally a lighter wine with flavours of ripe fruit. Barbaresco is strongly influenced by the soil, vineyard location and the winemaker’s techniques.

As to which wine is better, that is up to you to decide.  Personally, I like both equally. My preference is determined in the moment, whether it be a dinner pairing or simply my mood.

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