Old vines or new vines; does it make a difference when it comes to making wine? The simple answer is yes, but there are some things to take into consideration. The main sticking point is finding common ground for the definition of ‘old’. The definition is not industry controlled so depending on where you ask, the meaning changes.
In France, New Zealand and Canada, ‘old’ can mean 30 years. In Australia, California and Spain, the vines are not considered ‘old’ until they are 50 or 60 years of age. A few Californian producers who have vines as old as 80 to 100 years have adopted the designation ‘ancient vines’. If 80 years is considered ancient then by comparison there are several Australian vineyards with vines of such an age they would be considered prehistoric, dating back more than 150 years, the upper limit of longevity. Without a true international standard for identifying the relative maturity of vines from one country to the next, the consumer must beware and take into consideration where the wine was produced.
The lifespan of a vine is determined by several factors. The vines of France and other European nations were destroyed during the 1800s and early 1900s by a sap-sucking root pest called phylloxera that destroyed the plants and necessitated replanting on resistant North American rootstocks. Also, in the relatively rainy parts of Europe, such as much of France, the vines die decades before they tend to in the hot dry regions of South Australia, California, Chile and much of Spain. Harsh winters in countries such as Canada led to vines having only a 30 to 35 year lifespan.
Young grape vines, though productive, deliver variable quality wine from year to year. When the sun shines, they grow a great amount of foliage which can produce bitter grapes. When it rains, these vines bloat with water. The vines require massive pruning to reduce the amount of foliage and encourage ripening. By contrast, old vines are constant, their reduced sap flow naturally yields smaller berries with a higher ratio of solids to liquid.
The deep roots of old vines are a big asset. They tap moisture in drought conditions and guard against bloating during rainy times. Old vines also tend to ripen earlier, a great benefit to growers in cooler climates where cool autumn temperatures reduce the growing season.
Old vine wines provide richness and more complex flavours that build rather than trail off after the up-front fruit fades away. Young vines produce nice, aromatic wines but lack the complexity of flavour of wine produced from older vines. Wines produced from old vines will often cellar longer than wines produced from young vines.
Wine produced by old vines is generally more expensive than similar young vine wines. Because of the rarity, lower yields and perceived enhancement of wine quality, old vines have become increasingly sought after and valued by both the wine industry and consumers. As a result, old vine grapes typically demand a higher price per tonne. This combined with consumer demand, has resulted in old vine wines being more expensive to purchase in the stores.
It has been said that the appreciation of an old vine wine can be a way to connect with the past and to celebrate an enduring art form, similar to listening to the music of a great composer, reading literature or observing at the art of past masters. Wine made from old vines can reveal the distinctive character of a specific historic place and the artistry of the vintner, both past and present.
Sláinte mhaith
A Layman's Wine Musings 