During the past six years that I have been writing this blog I have always steered away from political issues. However, today I feel compelled to speak out against Canada’s one time ally, the United States. With the return of Donald Trump to the White House’s Oval Office, Canada’s economy was placed under direct attack by Trump when he decided to impose twenty-five percent tariffs on Canadian imports to the U.S., without just cause. Similar sanctions have been imposed on Mexico and China and are being threatened against the European Union.
Photo credit: Manitoba Liquor Mart
In response to these bullying tactics by Trump, and as a proud Canadian, I will no longer purchase or write about American wine until such time as Trump refrains from his attack on Canada.
Canada has been the top export market for U.S. wines and Ontario’s provincial liquor board (the LCBO) has been among the largest purchasers of U.S. alcohol. In Ontario, imported wines are primarily sold through provincially owned and operated retail outlets, although recent regulatory changes have authorized 157 private grocery retail locations to distribute wine and beer.
The first phase of Canada’s response to the U.S. imposed tariffs includes tariffs on wine and spirits, in addition to many other products. Ontario is banning American liquor and the LCBO is removing American wine, spirits and beer from its shelves. This will represent about a billion dollars worth of American alcohol.
British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland are also removing U.S. liquor from their store shelves. At last word Quebec is considering the idea. On the bright side these bans will serve to enhance the sale of Canadian wines in Canada, as well as European, Australian, South American and South African wines.
Hopefully the American people will convince Trump that the imposition of his tariffs will not only hurt international economies but his own economy as well. It is a sad situation.
Given all of the recent tariff talk and the renewed patriotism that has come as a result of it, some interesting points have come to light regarding wine sales between provinces. Many Canadians are now avoiding U.S. made products, including wine. As a result, there are now signs of an increased need to support Canadian wineries and renewed calls to open inter-provincial trade in alcohol. However, there are inter-provincial trade barriers standing in the way.
Photo credit: LCBO
Until June 2019, federal legislation prohibited inter-provincial shipment of alcohol directly to the consumer. This then allowed the provinces the opportunity to pass legislation to permit direct purchase to consumers. Unfortunately, most provinces chose not to allow this, leaving only British Columbia, Manitoba, Nova Scotia and Saskatchewan who permit direct-to-consumer alcohol shipments. Ontario has recently amended its laws to prohibit the possession of wine that has been imported from other provinces unless the transaction was handled via the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO). There are now calls to have this ban lifted.
Ontario wine consumers cannot support small local wineries in another province. Ironically, living in Ontario and purchasing wines produced in another province, the LCBO charges the purchaser the same import duties as if the wine came from a foreign country.
The wine growers of B.C., as well as the B.C. government are advocates of opening provincial borders to enable wine to move east and west across this country. There is a great deal of regulatory burden making it difficult for small and medium-sized wineries. The process needs to be simple and streamlined.
The time has come for Canadian provinces to eliminate inter-provincial trade barriers.
As the end of the year rolls around I think back to the year that was and which wineries left me with an impressionable mark. This is not to suggest that these are the only great wineries in the province; they are merely the ones that caught my attention this year. My list varies in length from year to year as I like to focus on achievements rather than listing a specific number of wineries.
Here is my list for 2024. The wineries are presented in alphabetical order.
Henry of Pelham Family Estate
I was surprised when I checked back to my past lists and found that Henry of Pelham has never appeared until now. It was the top Ontario winery this year at the National Wine Awards.
This six-generation family farm is situated in the Short Hills Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula. In 2006, Henry of Pelham was the first vineyard to be certified as local and sustainable by Local Food Plus. They have followed Sustainable Winemaking Ontario’s world-leading standards in their farming practices since 2004. In 2017, they became one of only six Ontario wineries to be certified by the Wine Council of Ontario as following sustainable winemaking practices from vine to table.
This year’s award-winning wines included:
Henry of Pelham NV Cuvée Catharine Brut Rosé
Henry of Pelham 2022 Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay
Henry of Pelham 2023 Pinot Grigio
Henry of Pelham 2020 Speck Family Reserve Cabernet-Merlot
Henry of Pelham 2023 Speck Family Reserve Riesling
Peller Estates Niagara-on-the Lake
This is Peller Estates fourth appearance on my Movers and Shakers list in the past five years. This year Peller Estates placed eighth at the National Wine Awards.
The Peller Estates team has operated in Niagara-on-the-Lake, in the heart of the Niagara wine region, as a family-owned Canadian company for four generations. Their winemaker is Katie Dickieson, who has previous work experience in vineyards in New Zealand and France, as well as in Ontario and British Columbia.
Their 2024 award winning wines included:
Peller Estates 2020 Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon
Peller Estates 2022 Signature Series Sauvignon Blanc
Peller Estates 2023 Signature Series Vidal Oak Aged Icewine
The Organized Crime Winery
Organized Crime previously appeared as a Mover and Shaker in 2020. This year it was recognized as the fifth small winery at National Wine Awards.
Organized Crime is a second-generation, family-owned, small boutique winery located on the Beamsville Bench of the Niagara Peninsula.
They farm the land themselves and assist in the winemaking throughout all stages of the process. Their production volumes are very small as they intentionally lean towards the passion side of the business rather than the commercial.
Greg Yemen is Organized Crime’s Consultant Winemaker.
Award winning wines from 2024 included:
Organized Crime 2022 Sacred Series Cuvée Krystyna Chardonnay
Organized Crime 2020 Pipe Down
Organized Crime 2020 Sacred Series Tara Block Pinot Noir Unfiltered
Organized Crime 2020 Cabernet Franc Unfiltered
Organized Crime 2023 Riesling
Thirty Bench Wine Makers
Thirty Bench Wine Makers has previously appeared three times on the Movers and Shakers list, last in 2022. This year they were fifth at the National Wine Awards.
Thirty Bench is committed to “Small Lot” winemaking, which means that many of their wines are made in extremely limited numbers. With Riesling vineyards dating back as far as 1980, they are proud to be considered one of Niagara’s first true boutique wineries.
The Thirty Bench Wine Makers portfolio includes a diverse range of award-winning wines across nine varietals.
2024 award winning wines included:
Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Riesling Wood Post Vineyard
Thirty Bench 2022 Winemaker’s Blend Cabernet Franc
Thirty Bench N/V Sparkling Riesling
Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Chardonnay ‘Extended Barrel Aged’
Thirty Bench 2021 Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard
Vieni Estates
Placing tenth at this year’s National Wine Awards, this is Vieni Estates first appearance on the Movers and Shakers list.
Vieni Estates brings the passion for wine from Italy and combines it with the love for this Canadian wine region. Located in the rolling hills of the Vinemount Ridge along the Niagara Escarpment, master winemaker Mauro Salvador takes the best of the many varietals grown on the estate to produce a broad range of still wines, ice wines and sparkling wines.
In addition to the many fine wines produced here, Vieni Estates also offers traditional Italian-style grappas and spirits distilled from the many fruits of Ontario.
This year’s award winning wines included:
Vieni Estates 2022 Cabernet Franc
Vieni Estates N/V Sparkling Apple Cider
Vieni Estates 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve
Vieni Estates 2020 Aglianico Reserve
Vieni Estates 2023 Novello Nouveau Gamay Noir
Final Thoughts
The list of award-winning wines includes only a sampling from each winery in order to provide you with an idea of the noteworthy wines each winery produces. It is not an all-inclusive list.
As this is the final post for 2024, I would like to wish you all a safe and happy New Year!
As the end of the year rolls around I think back to the year that was and which wineries left me with an impressionable mark. My list varies in length from year to year as I like to focus on achievements rather than listing a specific number of wineries. Although B.C. wineries have had a very traumatic year, they continued to release some fantastic wines. The strength of B.C. wineries runs deep as they were awarded the majority of the awards at both the National Wine Awards and the All Canadian Wine Awards.
Here is my list of the wineries that have performed extremely well this past year. The wineries are presented in alphabetical order.
Black Hills Estate Winery
Black Hills last appeared on my list in 2022. This year they were fourth overall at the National Wine Awards.
Black Hills wine team is led by Ross Wise, one of only ten Masters of Wine in Canada. He has over 20 years of experience having worked in British Columbia, Ontario, and New Zealand, with an extensive background in organic and regenerative viticulture.
Black Hills has practiced organic farming since 2020, incorporating regenerative viticulture practices. By working with nature and promoting biodiversity, they strive towards a self-sustaining ecosystem.
Their approach is based on traditional, time-honoured winemaking techniques that favour patience over efficiency. The fruit is hand-harvested and slowly fermented using native yeasts to build complexity.
Black Hills approach to winemaking is defined by careful craftsmanship and a deep respect for nature. They blend traditional winemaking methods with modern technology.
Their 2024 award winning wines include:
Black Hills 2022 Bona Fide
Black Hills 2022 Ipso Facto
Black Hills 2022 Addendum
Black Hills 2022 Syrah
Black Hills 2022 Roussanne
Corcelettes Estate Winery
Corcelettes appeared on my Movers and Shakers list for the first time last year. This year they were the sixth place small winery at the National Wine Awards. They credit their success to their commitment to farming their vineyards in the most balanced and sustainable way possible.
The estate contains nearly 160 acres, with 30 planted acres of mostly Bordeaux varietal grapes, Syrah and Pinot Noir. The vineyards are located in the Similkameen Valley.
Their 2024 winning wines include:
Corcelettes 2021 Syrah
Corcelettes 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown
Corcelettes 2021 Malbec Micro Lot Series Estate Vineyard
Corcelettes 2020 Talus
Corcelettes 2021 Chardonnay
Lake Breeze Vineyards
Lake Breeze previously appeared on my list in 2020. This year they placed ninth overall at this year’s National Wine Awards. They were also the fourth place small winery.
Lake Breeze is located on the Naramata Bench on Lake Okanagan. The MacIntyre family purchased the property in 2001. Since then, Lake Breeze has become one of the most beautiful wineries in British Columbia. They practice careful and meticulous viticultural practices. They endeavor to take the natural expression of the grape and transfer it to the bottle with minimal intervention.
The vineyard consists of a 14 acre parcel originally named Rock Oven Vineyards. The first vines on the property were planted in 1985, making them some of the oldest on the Naramata Bench.
Their list of 2024 award winning wines include:
Lake Breeze 2020 Cellar Series Mistral
Lake Breeze 2022 Roussanne Viognier
Lake Breeze 2023 Riesling
Lake Breeze 2023 Ehrenfelser
Lake Breeze 2020 Cellar Series Alizé Roussanne
Meyer Family Vineyards
Meyer Family Vineyards was awarded second overall at this year’s National Wine Awards.
They follow the traditional French Burgundian style of wine making focusing on small case lots of varietals best suited and expressive of their unique place of origin. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the varietals produced. The grapes are hand harvested and hand crafted.
Meyer Family Vineyards has been in operation in the Okanagan Valley since 2006.
Their award-winning wines for 2024 include:
Meyer 2022 Chardonnay McLean Creek Road Vineyard
Meyer 2022 B Field Blend McLean Creek Road Vineyard
Meyer 2022 Old Block Pinot Noir McLean Creek Vineyard
Meyer 2020 Pinot Noir McLean Creek Road Vineyard
Meyer 2022 Micro Cuvee Pinot Noir McLean Creek Road Vineyard
Nostalgia Wines
Nostalgia Wines placed seventh this year at the National Wine Awards and was also the third-place small winery. They are located on the Black Sage Bench in Oliver.
Vintner Gina Fernandes Harfman is the fourth generation family farmer. She has created a small lot lineup of excellent quality wines.
The 2024 list of award-winning wines includes:
Nostalgia Wines 2020 Malbec Petit Verdot
Nostalgia Wines 2020 Merlot
Nostalgia Wines 2020 Meritage
Nostalgia Wines 2022 Rockabilly Red
Nostalgia Wines 2022 Chardonnay
Quails’ Gate Estate Winery
Quail’s Gate consistently performs well at the various Canadian wine awards. This year they placed sixth overall at the National Wine Awards.
They are a fourth-generation Okanagan farming family. The winery was founded in 1989. They remain committed to ensuring that the founding family principles and values are maintained throughout the winery. Through dedicated research and ground-breaking innovation, they have assembled a collection of wines that consistently exceed expectations in quality, character and flavour.
Quail’s Gate has 160 acres of vineyards which contain some of the most mature vinifera plantings in the country. They have been leaders in the development of Canadian viticulture practices.
Quails’ Gate Estate is certified by Sustainable Winegrowing BC, a made-in-BC program that leads the way in sustainable winegrowing practices and sets a standard for the province and the rest of the country.
Quails’ Gates 2024 award winning wines includes:
Quails’ Gate 2021 Rosemary’s Block Chardonnay
Quails’ Gate 2021 Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay
Quails’ Gate 2022 Clone 49 Riesling
Quails’ Gate 2022 Clone 220 Chenin Blanc
Quails’ Gate 2023 Clone 49 Riesling
SpearHead Winery
SpearHead has been part of the Movers and Shakers list continually since 2022. This year they were named Winery of the Year and Small Winery of the Year at the National Wine Awards. In addition to the twin honours this year, they also had unprecedented success in an individual category (Pinot Noir), winning a total of seven medals for their Pinots, including three platinum, one gold, three silvers and a bronze. In total they earned a total of twelve medals.
Spearhead Winery is located on the benchlands of Southeast Kelowna. Their focus is on premium quality wine which they produce from grapes grown on the estate vineyard and from selected Okanagan Valley vineyards. The hand harvested grapes are sorted at the winery and fermented in small lots. They grow Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling grapes.
Their 2024 award winning wines include:
SpearHead 2022 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir
SpearHead 2022 Club Consensus Pinot Noir
SpearHead 2022 Saddle Block Pinot Noir
SpearHead 2021 Golden Retreat Pinot Noir
SpearHead 2021 Club Consensus Pinot Noir
Final Thoughts
Although these are the seven wineries I have featured, there are plenty of other fantastic British Columbia wineries. The devastation resulting from the environmental disasters of the past couple years have taken its toll on many of the wineries. I hope that all of the B.C. wineries will be able to recover from these disasters and continue to excel in producing the top-quality wines that we have come to enjoy over the years.
The list of award-winning wines includes only a sampling from each winery in order to provide you with an idea of the noteworthy wines each winery produces. It is not an all-inclusive list.
It would be an understatement to simply say that Mother Nature has been unkind to the B.C. wine industry this year. In January the extreme cold caused devastating damage to the vast majority of the grapevines in both the Okanagan and Similkameen Valley. It is estimated that 90% of this year’s grape crops were lost and 15% of the vines were destroyed.
Further devastation resulted because of the hot dry summer consisting of heatwaves and wildfires. The good news is that because of the heat, the remaining grapes ripened quickly, resulting in an early harvest with smaller but more concentrated fruit.
Lifelong workers in B.C.’s wine industry cannot recall a year that has been as devastating as this one. The provincial government has established a 26 million dollar vine replant program with an additional 92 million dollars to be paid through the Production Insurance and AgriStability program.
B.C.’s wine industry generates approximately 3.75 billion dollars annually for the province and employs more than 14,000 full-time workers. There are about 350 licensed grape wine wineries in the province that receive nearly 1.2 million visitors annually.
In order to help the wine industry recover from the lost grape harvest, the province is permitting the impacted wineries to import grapes and grape juice in order to produce the 2024 vintage. However, the imported products will not be eligible to carry the B.C. Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) label. Without these unprecedented concessions, many wineries would face potential financial ruin resulting in cuts to thousands of direct and indirect jobs, including the loss of highly specialized wine makers and cellar masters whose expertise is essential to the industry.
So, what will all this mean for the wine drinker when comes to the 2024 vintage of BC wines? Because of the intense heat and early ripening of those grapes that did survive, they will provide very concentrated and flavourful wines. However, given the scarcity of the wines that will carry the VQA designation, you can expect the price of the 2024 vintage to be higher than most years.
You can also rest assured that the wines that will be created from imported grapes will meet the established standards of the winery producing them. After all, their hard established reputations are at stake here and no one is willing to jeopardize that. British Columbia’s talented winemakers will deliver great results.
During a recent trip to the maritime provinces of Canada, I made a point of seeking out local wines to try. The first I came across while in St. Andrews by the Sea, New Brunswick; the second I found in North Rustico, Prince Edward Island and two while in Nova Scotia.
The first wine my wife and I tried was a 2019 Marquette from the Magnetic Hill Winery of Moncton, New Brunswick. It was a light bodied red wine similar to a Pinot Noir. It had aromas of cherries, blackcurrants and blackberries. The wine was a pleasure to drink and reasonably priced at $20.00 CDN.
The Marquette varietal is the cousin of the Frontenac varietal, which is a well-known French North American hybrid, and a descendant of Pinot Noir. This wine pairs well with pub foods such as cheeseburgers, bangers (sausages) and mash and chili con carne.
The second wine we tried was a $21.99 CDN Gamay from Matos Winery & Vineyards of St. Catherines, PEI. Until then I was not aware that there is a winery on PEI.
Matos Winery & Vineyards is a family-owned and run business that was initiated in 2007. They utilize the French concept of terroir whereby they found a location where the combination of soil, slope, sun exposure and the peculiar weather patterns allow certain grape varieties to thrive. They consulted with European vintners who visited PEI to provide their skill and knowledge.
Their Gamay has won a bronze medal at the National Wine Awards in 2016, 2014, 2012 and silver in 2011.
The first wine from Nova Scotia that we tried was the 2022 Baco Noir from Blomidon Estate Winery, of the Annapolis Valley, near Canning.
The 2022 Baco Noir has a nose of bright berry fruit accentuated by vanilla and notes of spice. Unfortunately for us, we found the wine to be slightly harsh and not quite as smooth and mellow as we have become accustomed to for Baco Noir. The price of this wine is $23.00 CDN.
Given the structure of this wine it would be best suited for pairing with barbecued beef or pork.
Blomidon Estate produces 100% Nova Scotia grown grapes and wines. Over the years they have earned several national and international awards.
The 2nd wine from Nova Scotia we experienced was Founders’ Red from Jost Winery, which is made from a blend of Leon Millot and Marechal Foch grapes. We experienced this wine during a quiet afternoon at our B&B outside of Cap-Pelé, New Brunswick. Like the day, this wine was very smooth and mellow. It had wonderful fruit flavours and was well worth the $17.19 CDN we paid for it.
Founders’ Red is a well-balanced blend of Nova Scotian-grown grapes with deep colour and intensity. This wine pairs well with barbequed meats and roasted pork.
Here is what the organizers and judges were seeing, hearing and thinking at this year’s WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada (NWAC). Their narrative has been separated by each judging category and presented below.
Photo credit: winealign.com
Sparkling Wine
While global wine consumption has decreased over the past two years. Sparkling wine, except for costly Champagne, has progressed upwards. In Canada, the Sparkling category burst during the pandemic, especially with accessible and affordable selections. The quality of Canadian sparkling wine continues to improve.
Red Blends
Red blends are abundant in both British Columbia and Ontario, making it the second largest category at the National Wine Awards. There is a variety of styles and grape varieties.
Bordeaux blends and Rhone blends continue to be important, but winemakers are increasingly evolving beyond the traditional French classic style. The next frontier is beginning to appear where blends consisting of Malbec, Carménère and Syrah are part of a new wave of Okanagan red blends.
White Blends
Winemakers continually mix and match with several varietal combinations. There are many permutations made with traditional varietals, as well as hybrid grapes.
There are no firm rules other than those set out by VQA which says that all the grapes in a labeled bottle must come from the province, an appellation and sub-appellation. Beyond this, the choices are endless, allowing white blends to vary from the traditional to the eclectic. Concepts include the Bordeaux combination of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, Rhône blends that may include Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, but also Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc, Picpoul and Ugni Blanc. This year, British Columbia has continued to set the trends for blending and styles.
Rosé
There is a great deal of flexibility with respect to producing Rosé wine. Extraction levels and pigmentation can vary, many red or combination of red and white grape varietals can be used and there are no rules overseeing sweetness levels or oak aging.
Most Rosés are not meant for extended aging and are often best consumed in the year in which they are made. In Canada, most Rosés are bottled from March to June and make it to the stores between April and July.
Pinot Gris/Grigio
This white wine grape is a mutation clone of the black Pinot Noir grape. The skin colour varies greatly, and the wines produced from Pinot Gris also vary in hue from palest yellow to deep golden to blushing salmon. Pinot Gris also goes by its Italian name, Pinot Grigio. Wines made in the fresh, crisp and unoaked style of Italy’s Veneto region are called Grigio, while those in a richer, riper version go by Gris.
Orange
Orange wines are skiin contact white wines. There is no rule as to the length of the contact period or the grape varietals used. These wines range widely in colour and style.
Niagara’s popular Vidal grape responded well to skin contact, bringing texture and complexity to its tropical fruit profile. However, aromatic Gewürztraminer, with its subtly oily mouthfeel and subtle tannic framework, also showed well.
Gamay
Things change each year as there are new entries from newer wineries making Gamay. Some things also remain the same as many long-time advocates and committed Gamay producers continue to make excellent wines.
Pinot Noir
No other grape causes more of a stir. For many, there is no other grape variety. Pinot Noir has found enormous global success and Canadian soils are largely responsible for that. From agile, transparent, high-toned, red berry charmers to darker, seriously ripe and often tannic iterations, Pinot Noir succeeds with harmony and balance.
Chardonnay
This is always one of the largest categories in the competition. Chardonnay always leads or equals the greatest number of medals from platinum to bronze. Prices ranged from $87 for the most expensive medal winner to $11.95 for the least costly.
While the most expensive wine was not a platinum winner, there is a correlation between price and medal earned, establishing that top quality wine sells for more money. The average price for the platinum winners came in at just over $45, $40 for gold, $39 for silver and $33 for Bronze.
Malbec and other Red Single Varieties
Malbec represented 18 of the 41 medal winners in this category and accounted for 7 of 8 of the gold medals. It accounted for just 1.4% of entries in the competition but earned 4.1% of all gold medals.
This trend is almost entirely driven by British Columbia. There is something special about Okanagan Malbec. Much like Syrah, it does well up and down the valley.
Other White Single Varieties
Chardonnay and Riesling are often singled out as the signature grapes when it comes to top quality Canadian white wine. There are many other white varieties producing spectacular results including Grüner Veltliner wines from British Columbia.
Chenin Blanc is another consistent performer in BC and Ontario, making vibrant, fruit- forward wines.
Sleek, elegant Sémillon wines are also cropping up with increased frequency from coast to coast, as single variety wines and in classic Sauvignon blends.
Pinot Blanc proved its merit for good value, easy drinking white wine.
Gewürztraminer and Viognier
Viognier and Gewürztraminer remain minor varieties on the Canadian wine scene. Both grapes are particularly unreliable in Ontario, where Gewürztraminer accounted for just 2% of total production in 2023. Viognier is so rare that it is in the “other” category in the VQA’s annual report. In B.C. Gewürztraminer places a respectable 4th among white varieties in 2023, behind Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling. Viognier sits in ninth position alongside other Rhône varieties suitable to the West Coast’s unique conditions.
Sauvignon Blanc
At this year’s competition, Sauvignon Blanc took great strides and gained increased favour from judges and wine lovers. There were 32 medals awarded, with 20 going to Ontario and 12 to British Columbia. Of impressive interest is the average price of the 16 Silver Medal winners. These are wines that scored 90 points with an average cost of $23.40.
Syrah
“Syrah” above “Shiraz” is the key style in Canada. Reflective of a French Rhône style “Syrah”, as opposed to “Shiraz”, wines labelled as such tend to be distinctively peppery, with more sharp tannins, lower alcohol and exhibit more freshness than “Shiraz”. Yet in Canada, there is no enforcement over the use of these terms. Vintage variation and place do play a deterministic role, but the style of Syrah in Canada is heavily influenced by winegrowing and winemaking decisions that vary from producer to producer.
Ontario can produce excellent Syrah, but the category has forever been dominated by British Columbia.
Riesling
Canada has many great and quality examples of Riesling. It is a variety that truly expresses the place where it is grown. Riesling also counts among some of Canada’s oldest planted vinifera varieties, with plantings dating back to the mid 1970’s and early 1980’s in both Niagara and the Okanagan Valley.
Icewine & Late Harvest
Icewine, is the most important wine export. Now more than ever, due to erratic weather patterns, production is being threatened. Since the start of Icewine production in the 1970’s, a harvest has never been missed despite coming close a few times because of a mild winter in Ontario.
VQA regulations require the grapes to be naturally frozen on the vine, harvested, and pressed while the air temperature remains at or below -8 degrees Celsius. Recurrent periods of freezing and thawing can cause grapes to split, increasing unpredictable acidity in the wine. Production is a physically demanding task for both for the vines, that must bear their fruit into the cold of winter, as well as for the winemaker, who often harvests on the coldest of winter nights.
Cabernet Sauvignon
The number of gold medals has dropped from 13 in 2022 to 10 in 2023 to 7 this year. Despite the results, it is the category that has the most potential.
Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely planted grape in the world, but such is not the case in Canada. It is the third most planted red variety in British Columbia, with 7.7% of total grapes grown. In Ontario, Cabernet Sauvignon represents only 5.9% of the grape harvest. There’s been a consistent downward trend, as a percentage of tonnage, over the last five years.
Cabernet Franc
Ontario has historically had a slight edge over the Okanagan Valley, given Ontario’s generally cooler and wetter climate, which suits the lighter, aromatic style that the judges tend to favour. However, the margin of difference has always been slim.
This year Ontario captured 38 out of 53 medals in total. However, British Columbia’s representation was impacted by the wildfires that severely impacted the Okanagan Valley in 2021, which resulted in smoke-tainted wines from some parts of the valley. Since these wineries did not submit any smoke-tainted wines, the number of submissions from B.C. was reduced significantly.
Merlot
Merlot remains the number one red planted grape in British Columbia.
There you have it; and that’s a wrap on the 2024 National Wine Awards.
The WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada (NWAC) is the country’s largest competition, involving only 100 percent Canadian-grown and produced wines. The judging involves a select group of Canadian wine writers, educators, sommeliers and two international judges who spend a week assessing some 2000 wines and ciders. This year’s competition took place near Niagara Falls, Ontario.
Double Honour
The Winery of the Year and Small Winery of the Year is Kelowna British Columbia’s SpearHead Winery. In addition to the twin honours this year, they also had unprecedented success in an individual category (Pinot Noir), winning a total of seven medals for their Pinots, including three platinum, one gold, three silvers and a bronze. In total they earned a total of twelve medals.
Top 10 Wineries
Six of the top ten wineries this year are from British Columbia, with the remaining four from Ontario. The top ten are:
SpearHead Winery, British Columbia
Meyer Family Vineyards, British Columbia
Henry of Pelham, Ontario
Black Hills Estate Winery, British Columbia
Thirty Bench Wine Makers, Ontario
Quails’ Gate Estate Winery, British Columbia
Nostalgia Wines, British Columbia
Peller Estates Niagara-on-the Lake, Ontario
Lake Breeze Vineyards, British Columbia
Vieni Estates, Ontario
The Top 10 Small Wineries
Seven of the top ten small wineries are from British Columbia, with the remainder from Ontario. The top ten are:
SpearHead Winery, British Columbia
Meyer Family Vineyards, British Columbia
Nostalgia Wines, British Columbia
Lake Breeze Vineyards, British Columbia
The Organized Crime Winery, Ontario
Corcelettes Estate Winery, British Columbia
Black Bank Hill, Ontario
Kismet Estate Winery, British Columbia
Fort Berens Estate Winery, British Columbia
Lailey Winery, Ontario
Regional Top 10 Winners
British Columbia
SpearHead Winery
Meyer Family Vineyards
Black Hills Estate Winery
Quails’ Gate Estate Winery
Nostalgia Wines
Lake Breeze Vineyards
Corcelettes Estate Winery
Nk’Mip Cellars
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery
Kismet Estate Winery
Ontario
Henry of Pelham
Thirty Bench Wine Makers
Peller Estates Niagara-on-the-Lake
Vieni Estates
The Organized Crime Winery
Black Bank Hill
Two Sisters Vineyards
Lailey Winery
Hidden Bench Estate Winery
Marynissen Estates
Platinum and Gold Medal Winners
Only 1% of the wines entered earn a Platinum Medal. This year, 18 out of 1,800 wines received this recognition. Every Platinum winner has passed through a minimum of two tastings and a review by a minimum of five judges. These wines must be put forward by at least three judges in the first round and re-considered by at least five judges in the second round.
Earning a Platinum Medal greatly increases a winery’s performance score based on the mathematical degree of difficulty in reaching Platinum. This helps to decide the Winery of the Year and the Top 25 list.
Platinum and Gold medals were awarded in the following categories, presented alphabetically below:
Cabernet Franc
Platinum Medal
Black Bank Hill 2020 Cabernet Franc, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Vieni Estates 2022 Cabernet Franc, Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Gold Medal
Bordertown 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Domaine Queylus 2022 Cabernet Franc Réserve du Domaine, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
The All Canadian Wine Championships (ACWC) were held earlier this month. It is open to all Canadian licensed wineries, cideries and meaderies and content must be grown and made in Canada. This year there were 995 entries submitted by 173 wineries.
The panel of judges consisted of wine writers, sommeliers, and professional wine judges from the Wine Judges of Ontario. There were 10 judges from Ontario, 2 from Alberta and 1 from each of Quebec and New Brunswick.
The 2024 trophy winners were as follows:
The Best Sparkling Wine of the Year was presented to British Columbia’s (BC) Bench 1775 Winery, for their 2020 Blanc de Blanc ($39.75 CDN).
The Best Red Wine of the Year was BC’s Sunrock Vineyard’s 2021 Shiraz ($40.24 CDN).
The Best White Wine of the Year was awarded to BC’s Van Westen Vineyards, for their 2022 Viscous ($27.40 CDN).
The Best Dessert Wine of the Year was Quebec’s Vignoble du Marathonien, for their 2021 Vin de glace ($50.00 CDN).
The Best Rosé Wine of the Year was awarded to yet another BC winery, Hester Creek Estate Winery, for their 2023 Rosé Noir ($32.19 CDN).
The Best Fruit Wine of the Year was presented to another BC winery, Maan Farms Winery, for their N/V Raspberry Dessert ($29.99 CDN).
The Best Cider of the Year was Nova Scotia’s Domaine de Grand Pré, for their N/V Vintage Sparkling Cider ($29.00 CDN).
The Best Mead of the Year was presented to Manitoba’s Shrugging Doctor Beverage Co, for their N/V Apple Cinnamon Mead ($18.47 CDN).
Double Gold, Gold, Silver and Bronze medals may be awarded in each category. Double Gold and Gold medals were presented to the following participants:
Sparkling Wine-Traditional Method
Gold
Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2021 Lush Sparkling Rosé – $57.80
Two Sisters Vineyards, ON – 2020 Blanc de Franc – $63.80
Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery, ON – N/V Brut – $44.80
Sparkling Wine–Charmat Method
Double Gold
Bella Terra Vineyards, ON – N/V Sparkling Rose – $24.95
Gold
Three Dog Winery, ON – 2023 Debut Sparkling – $27.80
Harbour Estates, ON – 2023 Sparkling Riesling – $25.00
Sparkling Wine–Frizzante Method
Double Gold
Planters Ridge Winery, NS – 2022 SEK – $22.43
Gold
Jost Vineyards, NS – N/V Luvo Sparkling White – $5.89
Chardonnay, Unoaked
Double Gold
Calamus Estate Winery, ON – 2023 Unoaked Chardonnay – $18.95
Gold
Kacaba Vineyards and Winery, ON – 2023 Select Series Unoaked Chardonnay – $15.95
Chardonnay Under $35.00
Double Gold
Wending Home, ON – 2021 Chardonnay Estate Vineyards – $34.95
The name Arterra Wines has come up in discussion in a couple of my blog posts in the past regarding their acquisitions within the wine industry. So, it seems to be a good time to investigate and find out more about Arterra Wines.
According to the Arterra Wines Canada website, their mission is, “To build wine brands people love”. Their origins date back to 1874 when the Niagara Falls Wine Company was founded. In 1994 they became known as Vincor International. In 2006, Vincor was acquired by Constellation Brands, a U.S.-based company that is both a leading international producer and marketer of beer, wine and spirits. Finally, in 2016, the Canadian branch of Constellation Brands was acquired by the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan and became Arterra Wines Canada.
With many iconic and recognized wine brands, Arterra is developing and expanding their wine portfolio to provide Canadians from coast-to-coast with the opportunity to enjoy and experience wines made both in Canada and from renowned wine-making regions around the world.
Arterra owns and operates Wine Rack retail stores in Ontario, as well as sells wine kits and products for winemaking at RJS Craft Winemaking.
Here is the timeline of important events that have taken place throughout the life of Arterra Wines:
1874
Niagara Falls Wine Company was founded.
1911
Niagara Falls Wine Company renamed T.G. Bright & Co. Limited.
1975
Inniskillin is given the first Canadian winery license since 1929 in Ontario, making it the first estate winery in Canada.
Don Triggs and Alan Jackson, with a group of employees and investors, purchase Cartier Wines from John Labatt Limited.
1992
Cartier Wines acquires Inniskillin.
1993
Jackson-Triggs brand launches.
1994
T.G. Bright & Co. changes its name to become Vincor International Inc.
2000
Acquisition of Sumac Ridge, one of B.C.’s first wineries, and See Ya Later Ranch (formerly Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards) in the Okanagan, B.C.
2001
NK’Mip Cellars Inc. in B.C. becomes first Aboriginal winery thanks to the joint venture with Osoyoos Indian Band and Vincor International.
Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery opens.
2003
Acquisition of Kim Crawford Wines of Auckland, New Zealand.
2005
Naked Grape brand launches.
2006
Vincor International is acquired by Constellation Brands.
2009
Open Wine brand launches in Ontario (and later in B.C. in 2011).
2012
Vincor International starts operating under the Constellation Brands name.
2013
Bodacious brand wine launches.
2016
Constellation Brands is acquired by the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan.
2017
The name is changed to Arterra Wines Canada.
2019
Acquisition of Culmina Family Estate Winery in B.C.s Okanagan Valley.
After stopping production in 2016, Jordan, Ontario’s Le Clos Jordanne wines were re-established.
2020
Acquisition of Sandbanks Winery, Prince Edward County, Ontario (see March 8, 2020 post, The Shifting of Sandbanks).
Acquisition of Tom Gore Vineyards and the trademark rights to Paso Creek, Revolution, Vintage Ink and R.H. Phillips.
2021
Acquisition of Vin First, a Canadian canning and Tetra™ packaging company, specializing in the beverage alcohol industry.
2023
New location for Le Clos Jordanne on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench.
Acquisition of Angels Gate Winery and Kew Winery, Niagara, Ontario.
Acquisition of Champagne Palmer of Champagne, France.
How long Arterra Wines remains under the control of the Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan and a Canadian corporation remains to be seen. Should ownership become non-Canadian in the future, a significant portion of the Canadian wine industry will hang precariously in the balance; a sobering thought.
A Layman's Wine Musings 