The Wines of Armenia

Armenia is a wine region that I was unaware of until I saw an Armenian wine advertised recently in a wine catalogue. That enticed me to do some research and here is what I learned.

The bulk of wine grapes indigenous to Armenia are not very well known in North America. Hindering Armenia’s ability to familiarize the rest of the world with its wines are the ongoing conflicts surrounding its borders. Armenia is situated between Georgia, Iran, Azerbaijan and Turkey. Armenia’s rivers and high plateaus are surrounded by the Caucasus Mountains.

The country’s wine history is ancient. The region of Vayots Dzor claims to be home to the oldest winery in the world, in operation since some 6,100 years ago.

As with some other Eastern European countries, the progression of Armenian wine ended when the Soviet Red Army invaded in 1920. In 1922 the country was merged into the Transcaucasian Soviet Federated Socialist Republic. Then, in 1936 it became the Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic or Soviet Armenia.

Innovation stopped with the elimination of private enterprise. The Soviets converted wineries into processing plants and vineyards turned over fruit for brandy distillation or bulk wine production.  Some vineyards were planted in unfavorable locations, while others went neglected or abandoned.

In 1991, after the demise of the Soviet Union, Armenia regained its sovereignty. Young Armenians and those with investment money began to embrace the region’s ancient wine-making techniques and wine culture. As a result, Armenia has become the youngest oldest wine industry in the world.

During the Soviet years a great deal of information was lost, including knowledge of the traits of many indigenous grape varieties, understanding soil suitability, sun preference, as well as how much maceration and aging of the grapes is best. Regaining this knowledge requires years of experimentation.

A few producers work with international grapes mainly for the Russian and other former Soviet republic markets. However, new quality-driven wineries focus on local varieties. Much of the post Soviet revival has included using a combination of modern technology and traditional techniques, such as aging the wine in terracotta jars called karasi.

The drive to produce quality wines has helped winemakers find export partners. Being a landlocked country, Armenia cannot produce low-cost wines. It must become part of the higher-priced market segment.

Armenia contains four main wine regions. The best known is the south-central region of Vayots Dzor, a long, narrow plateau which stands out for its highest elevation vineyards, some which reach almost 6,000 feet above sea level.

The Aragatsotn region is situated at slightly lower elevation. The remaining regions include Ararat, which is located on a sunny plateau, and Armavir, which is a mountainous area in the southwest.

Grape varietals include Areni Noir, which produces medium-bodied red wines with fruits like cherry and strawberry laced with black pepper aromas. It compares in its freshness, silkiness and transparency to Pinot Noir.

Voskehat is Armenia’s signature white grape. The wine has light to medium body. It has floral and stone fruit aromas with notes of herbs and citrus.

Khndoghni, or Sireni, is a red grape that gives black fruit flavors, deep colour, good tannins and the potential to age.

To sum it up, Armenia is small, landlocked and poor. However, it appears to have resilience, an ability to adapt, and a desire to show the world its world-class wines. Many experts feel that there is a future for quality Armenian wines.

Sláinte mhaith

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